Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: mermod on September 13, 2015, 06:32:23 am
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This build is for anyone building an Albert kit to use as an instruction manual, it's meant to show the assembly process for those wanting to start their Albert's before I have a chance to produce a proper instruction manual, please free to ask any questions that might help someone with their project or if I haven't quite explained something well enough.
Phill
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So let's start with the display stand.
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/IMG_0455_zpsro5cbcdd.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/IMG_0455_zpsro5cbcdd.jpg.html)
The pack should contain 10 structural parts and 16 pegs (the pegs are in the little zip lock baggy)
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0440_zps6qygld4m.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0440_zps6qygld4m.jpg.html)
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I am a fairly impatient kind of model maker myself so I usually use a fast drying CA or super glue, there are too many brands to mention but I normally use Zap-a-Gap or Loctite 401, alternatively if you are more comfortable with a wood glue or epoxy either of these work just as well, the only place I insist on the use of an epoxy is when glueing the rudder tube and the stuffing box into position.
Once the part is slotted into place you really only need to apply a small spot of glue onto the peg to stop it falling back out.
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0441_zpslrvsjl7d.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0441_zpslrvsjl7d.jpg.html)
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0442_zpsy9xh7yod.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0442_zpsy9xh7yod.jpg.html)
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One end slotted into position.
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0444_zps1p3e2xmw.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0444_zps1p3e2xmw.jpg.html)
The other end in position but not yet pinned, also here we see the foot slotted on and glued into place, all the parts are mirror images so you can't get them around the wrong way but it does pay to check that the engraved name is up the right way.
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0447_zpsdoe8kbgi.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0447_zpsdoe8kbgi.jpg.html)
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All done showing the locking pegs in place (and the name up the right way).
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0450_zpsdhxdwuja.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0450_zpsdhxdwuja.jpg.html)
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0453_zpsyzuelhsk.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0453_zpsyzuelhsk.jpg.html)
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Next up.....find the Base plate and find the "this way up" sticker, once again most of the parts are mirrored but the mounting of the steering servo requires it to be up the right way (you can see the cut-out for the servo towards the stern).
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0456_zpsnr38xvtl.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0456_zpsnr38xvtl.jpg.html)
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Then locate the 2 bags labelled Albert Sub-Frame.
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0504_zpstxotmen7.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0504_zpstxotmen7.jpg.html)
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These bags contain all the parts for Albert's sub-frame, pictured here are the parts for the fore deck support's.
The sub-assembly should NOT BE GLUED at this stage, it needs to remain flexible untill the whole frame is slotted into the base.
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0457_zpshrlfdcuc.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0457_zpshrlfdcuc.jpg.html)
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It is extremely important to make sure these 3 supports are slotted in as shown as they support the curve of the deck.
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0458_zpshd2ekr2a.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0458_zpshd2ekr2a.jpg.html)
Once the parts are slotted into place the locking pin can be slid through all 3 slots, at this stage the assembly is still a bit loose but thats OK, repeat this operation for both sides.
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0462_zpsmmhk6cfd.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0462_zpsmmhk6cfd.jpg.html)
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The remaining fore deck frame can now be assembled, once again the locking pin slides through all 3 tabs (still no glue at this stage)
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0464_zpsltxftx75.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0464_zpsltxftx75.jpg.html)
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0466_zpsun1ub9pj.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0466_zpsun1ub9pj.jpg.html)
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Next step is to start slotting parts into the sub-frame, the tabs project past the bottom by 10mm so to allow for this I suggest the base is sat up on spacers, I used some plastic shot cups for the photo's but some wooden blocks or strips would work just as well, once again, at this stage do not glue anything.
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0469_zpssp65kr57.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0469_zpssp65kr57.jpg.html)
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0467_zpsemsthcxz.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0467_zpsemsthcxz.jpg.html)
Here on the corner is a tight fit and will need a bit of jiggling to get the slots past each other on the way down.
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0470_zpsccoen9rf.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0470_zpsccoen9rf.jpg.html)
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(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0473_zpsj81gfw7n.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0473_zpsj81gfw7n.jpg.html)
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More parts in the sub-frame assembly bags.
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0475_zpsl5u66w0a.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0475_zpsl5u66w0a.jpg.html)
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These parts can be slid into place taking notice of the stickers showing which way up and which way forward (even though they can only be slotted in one way anyway)
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0480_zpsmg7ggrre.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0480_zpsmg7ggrre.jpg.html)
They can then be slid partially into place, don't push them right down yet or the next bit won't fit in.
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0482_zpsj1c7aetf.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0482_zpsj1c7aetf.jpg.html)
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The last few sub-assembly parts can now be put together, the servo mount shown is the only part of the kit cut from 7mm ply, it get's a bit tricky holding these parts together so I recommend tacking the servo mount in place as shown with a drop of CA, just to hold it while everything gets pushed into place.
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0476_zpsopgvmu2s.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0476_zpsopgvmu2s.jpg.html)
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(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0477_zpsfnjksy0b.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/Albert%20Build%20Instructions/IMG_0477_zpsfnjksy0b.jpg.html)
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This part can now be slotted into place and it can take a bit of joggling to get all the bits to slide into place.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0488_zpshdbyw5l1.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0488_zpshdbyw5l1.jpg.html)
Notice how by not gluing it just yet that the parts can be lifted slightly to allow the tabs to slot into place.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0529_zpspsqzkpbv.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0529_zpspsqzkpbv.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0528_zpss4p73nae.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0528_zpss4p73nae.jpg.html)
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Now it's just a case of flipping the whole structure over (bits will want to slide apart but don't worry too much at this stage)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0531_zpsqkbmrbft.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0531_zpsqkbmrbft.jpg.html)
Finding the bag of wooden pins.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0523_zpscg37vbkv.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0523_zpscg37vbkv.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0533_zpssvzxs5no.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0533_zpssvzxs5no.jpg.html)
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And slotting the the pegs into place.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0535_zpsnnmetfia.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0535_zpsnnmetfia.jpg.html)
It's worth noting that when I assembled the prototypes that I applied CA glue between the peg and the baseplate so the part being pegged is still just a little loose but can't fall out completely.
I found it easier to hold the frame on its side and let gravity hold the pegs while I applied some CA.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0534_zpsm6xhi7g8.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0534_zpsm6xhi7g8.jpg.html)
Also please not that there is one peg that will interfere with the fitting of the steering servo and will need to be trimmed (pointed out with the pencil)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0536_zps6qijhhjp.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0536_zps6qijhhjp.jpg.html)
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Al the assembled parts now need to be checked for fitting and where necessary clamped tight to close up any gaps, I would recommend running a bead of your favorite glue along the back of all the joins at this stage (personally I used an exterior PVA just to reinforce all the joins)
These two parts for the battery housing can also be glued into place.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0537_zpscligrkds.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0537_zpscligrkds.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0490_zps1pmiyx6u.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0490_zps1pmiyx6u.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0492_zpsbo1lukjt.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0492_zpsbo1lukjt.jpg.html)
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(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0493_zpsybmplwhq.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0493_zpsybmplwhq.jpg.html)
I suggest that at this stage that all the glue be allowed to harden up as the next stage is putting on the foredeck which requires a bit of pressure.
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Now for the front deck, this is probably the trickiest part of the whole build, it's not hard, just tricky and requires a bit of pressure to get it into place.
Best way to start is by sanding the corners off the tabs that the front deck locates onto, this makes it a little easier to get the deck down.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0540_zpskwpi7b5u.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0540_zpskwpi7b5u.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0541_zps27hraipu.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0541_zps27hraipu.jpg.html)
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Locate the foredeck and check it over, you will probably find it has a natural curve to it and I suggest you install it up the way it wants to curve.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0539_zpsuzrdz789.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0539_zpsuzrdz789.jpg.html)
And locate it onto the forward most tab.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0542_zpstp6qzan1.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0542_zpstp6qzan1.jpg.html)
Here you can see I am applying a fair bit of pressure and you can just see the next tab along just peeking through the deck, once again you will need to do a bit of joggling to make the tabs line up.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0543_zps00g4fv1f.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0543_zps00g4fv1f.jpg.html)
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Here you can see I have the first peg into place and I'm now working along the deck pressing it onto the tabs and sliding in the rest of the pegs.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0546_zpsmytel1om.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0546_zpsmytel1om.jpg.html)
Take note that the pegs slide in from the front not the back!
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0547_zpsn5w9jpo9.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0547_zpsn5w9jpo9.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0551_zpsa98ncixs.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0551_zpsa98ncixs.jpg.html)
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I find that after a few light taps with a modelling hammer (very light taps) the pegs will pull the deck nicely down onto the curved support underneath.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0548_zpsh5nva1xj.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0548_zpsh5nva1xj.jpg.html)
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This spot here will not quite touch and will need to be pulled into place before gluing, as before I would run a bead of glue right around the underside of the deck.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0549_zpsnqnhxncc.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0549_zpsnqnhxncc.jpg.html)
Once this is thoroughly set you can trim off the pegs and their tab's then sand them flush.
just to give you an idea of how strongly it all locks together all the photo's you see of this prototype so far are before I have applied any glue at all!
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Next step, the coaming for the wheelhouse to locate onto.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0559_zpspexgmgss.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0559_zpspexgmgss.jpg.html)
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The front of the coaming has slots that locate onto the front edge, the curve of the deck can make this a little tricky and a bit tight so angle it slightly as you slide it into place.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0560_zpsv459yaph.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0560_zpsv459yaph.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0561_zpsiqsqcj1j.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0561_zpsiqsqcj1j.jpg.html)
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The side pieces can now be slotted into the front piece, because of the angle of the front piece it will be a tight fit, it will be under a bit of tension so just temporarily slide it down to the first tab just to hold it in place (see pencil)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0564_zpsytkh52a2.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0564_zpsytkh52a2.jpg.html)
Now slide the rear piece into place and bring the side pieces up and into their slots.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0565_zpsgc2akm1s.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0565_zpsgc2akm1s.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0569_zpsfffdnsmf.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0569_zpsfffdnsmf.jpg.html)
You can now run a bead of glue around the base of the coaming where it meets the deck and up the inside corners.
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The plywood structure get's sat aside for the moment while we move onto the hull so now would be a great time to seal all the plywood parts you have assembled so far, once the hull has been prepared (next step) and the plywood structure gets dropped into place the underside of the base plate and other parts cannot be accessed again so seal them well now!
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It has just occured to me that I have glossed over what to do with the tops of the rear storage compartments, due to the fact that fibreglass hulls can vary a bit in wall thickness these are best left off until the base structure if fitted into the hull (they may or may not need a little trim) even though they are pictured earlier in construction they are only temporarily in place.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0553_zpsnxje0ilz.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0553_zpsnxje0ilz.jpg.html)
This is actually a good time to glue the engraved seat tops onto the cutout that locates back into the opening (that doesn't make alot of sense when you read it but the pictures should help.
So here I am holding the cut out part back in it's frame ready to glue the seat top (engraved panel pictured to the right)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0556_zpsuss2exrm.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0556_zpsuss2exrm.jpg.html)
So it looks like this :)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0557_zpsemxs1hsw.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0557_zpsemxs1hsw.jpg.html)
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Same with the rear compartment, this will sit in place by itself thanks to the two supports underneath.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0555_zpscngplsrz.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0555_zpscngplsrz.jpg.html)
Glue the larger seat top on and it should look like this.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0558_zps2ojxcvyo.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0558_zps2ojxcvyo.jpg.html)
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Now it all gets exciting, we move onto the hull, as with most glass hulls it will need a wash to get rid of any traces of release agent that will stop your glue and your paint from sticking (followed by a thorough drying).
You need to be a little careful when driling out the holes as the white gel coating will want to chip especially where the rudder post exits, I find the best way to avoid chipping is to drill a pilot hole first with a 1.5mm hole and work up to the desired size with increasingly larger bits (must be super sharp).
Albert does not come with a propeller shaft so measure the diameter of yours and drill out to suit, also drill out the 5.5m hole for the rudder tube and the 4mm holes for the keel bolts.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0510_zpszos4wsch.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0510_zpszos4wsch.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0509_zpsxiyz9zhx.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0509_zpsxiyz9zhx.jpg.html)
You can just see I got a little excited when I drilled the hole on the right for the keelbolt and chipped the gel coat, this is not a problem here as it gets covered by the skeg.
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Now is a good time to test fit your skeg, just to make sure the bolt holes line up and that it locates nicely onto the keel.
It should be a firm fit onto the keel, I find the best way is to slide it on from the stern, the hull pictured had a small build up of gel coat that needed to be ground away with my Dremel I have highlighted this area with black marker pen (once again you may not need to o this)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0512_zps6qo5fffd.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0512_zps6qo5fffd.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0513_zps9o4172ln.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0513_zps9o4172ln.jpg.html)
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Ok, locate the rudder tube.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0583_zpseemtul6j.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0583_zpseemtul6j.jpg.html)
and test the fit, when finished it will slide in flush with the outside of the hull but just check the fit for now, it needs to slide in nicely with no slop, once your happy with the fit drop it back out again.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0585_zpssceoi5kq.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0585_zpssceoi5kq.jpg.html)
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Next step is to drop the plywood insert into the hull, you may need to pull the sides of the hull apart a tad but I find firmly sliding the structure in from the bow works well.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0571_zps5pbvrrvf.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0571_zps5pbvrrvf.jpg.html)
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It should drop in something like this.
Clicking on the picture should take you to a video...........hopefully
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2BXe_XzQVc&feature=youtu.be
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/th_MVI_0582_zpsrvk7n6os.mp4) (http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/MVI_0582_zpsrvk7n6os.mp4)
notice how the hole in the servo mount needs to locate directly over the hole in the hull, in the video the servo mount is not glued together yet but by now yours should be, once in place the rudder tube slides up from under the hull and through both the hole in the base-plate and the hole in the servo mount.
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Smooth installation.
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Glad you liked it :-))
Phill
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Next step is to glue around the base of the rudder tube from the inside but before that you need to bolt the skeg into place with the rudder in, that way it simply has to line up as the length of the skeg dictates the position of the base of the rudder.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0586_zpsqsn5kv3i.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0586_zpsqsn5kv3i.jpg.html)
Even though the shaft is shown in place I only had it sitting there temporarily as you need to access the bolts for the skeg before fitting the shaft, when the shaft finally gets fitted it slides into place from inside.
Once the skeg, rudder and it's tube are in place you pour in some epoxy around the tube from the inside, I have left slots around this part to run the epoxy into.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0590_zpsygthynfa.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0590_zpsygthynfa.jpg.html)
You can just see the white epoxy poured through the slots.
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While the epoxy is drying just check to make sure these tabs are touching the bottom of the hull, I gave them a dab of CA glue to hold them onto the bottom of the hull.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0593_zpsrrjlgtks.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0593_zpsrrjlgtks.jpg.html)
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Once the epoxy around the ruddder shaft dries you can fit your propellor tube, please remember that Albert does not come with a prop shaft, the one I used has a tube length of 200mm and I ran it past the outside of the hull by 10mm, notice how once you poke it out through the hole the inside end lifts up to and just touches the baseplate to give the correct angle, you can now pour epoxy around the inside of the shaft to fix it in.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0588_zpsegvjp1ur.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0588_zpsegvjp1ur.jpg.html)
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I wondered why you had designed the rudder post support surrounded by those cutouts and now it makes elegant sense, intergral support/access holes for pouring resin! Bloomin genius that is :-))
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So it's all making sense then, that's good to know :-))
Phill
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Now that's all done it's time to seal the front deck, I'm sure everyone has their preferred methods of doing this but I will explain the way I like to do it, as it's wood to fibreglass once again I use epoxy but I mix it with talcum powder until it's like peanut butter.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0598_zpsfsohvi46.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0598_zpsfsohvi46.jpg.html)
Then push it nicely into the gap, I get it roughly into place then smooth it out with a wet finger, smooth it now because once it set's it's a pain to sand.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0600_zpssdfwhmbv.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0600_zpssdfwhmbv.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0604_zpsaj7zwicr.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0604_zpsaj7zwicr.jpg.html)
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If you haven't already you can now drop in the top frames for the aft compartments, these don't necessarily need to be sealed to he hull, it's personal choice however I had some spare epoxy left over so decided to do mine.
Frames dropped into place and glued.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0575_zpsk7hymutd.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0575_zpsk7hymutd.jpg.html)
I made a bit of a mess of sealing to the hull but once the seat tops are on no one will see.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0602_zpsczrcwd2r.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0602_zpsczrcwd2r.jpg.html)
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It's a little late in the process for this photo of the shaft I used but I'm sure we all read all of the instructions before starting, the rod is way over length and will be shortened when I decide on a motor.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0581_zpsu6yuxt0o.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0581_zpsu6yuxt0o.jpg.html)
and no, you don't get one of those little disc thingies with the prop size written on it, that was just for working out what would fit nicely.
And while I'm at it here's the rudder tube (included)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0583_zpseemtul6j.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0583_zpseemtul6j.jpg.html)
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It's about now that I would fill any gaps in the fore deck and generally get it ready for painting as it makes it just that bit harder once the cap rail is on.
The next logical step is the cap rail.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0606_zpsswudbsax.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0606_zpsswudbsax.jpg.html)
I personally glue this on with CA as it is a flat surface to another flat surface, it pays to give the flat on the hull a light sand with some 240 grit and a sanding block taking care not to turn the flat into a curve.
Once this is done you need to find the centre at the stern, to do this take your favourite straight edge or ruler and put one end at the point where the steering wheel locates (right in the centre) mark the centre of the rear coaming and line the two up with your ruler.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0607_zpsggk55m2r.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0607_zpsggk55m2r.jpg.html)
Then mark a line where the ruler falls.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0610_zpse3yoc9eg.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0610_zpse3yoc9eg.jpg.html)
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The caprail is a little tricky but I have cut it over length so you have a little bit of play, I started by running a bead of CA from the stern to the centre of the hull or middle bulkhead (where my thumb is) line up the centre of the caprail join on the stern, it should be half over the back and half over the front.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0617_zpskanr7sfn.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0617_zpskanr7sfn.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0618_zps8ynoa6ez.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0618_zps8ynoa6ez.jpg.html)
Then run it around halfway around the hull (where my thumb is) but here it must be flush with the inside of the hull.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0614_zpsfir9u1ra.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0614_zpsfir9u1ra.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0619_zpsm9891jjx.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0619_zpsm9891jjx.jpg.html)
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I then continued with the bead of glue up to the bow, the caprail does tend to pull out to the side of the hull as it curves up and you do need to apply some pressure to bring it back in, keep in mind that is should be flush with the inside of the hull all the way up to the bow.
The photo shows one perfectly in place and the other pulling away from the hull ready to be glued and pulled back into place.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0620_zpsvxruz68r.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0620_zpsvxruz68r.jpg.html)
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So now your caprails should look a bit like this and need to be trimmed level with the side of the stem so the knob will fit on.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0623_zpskupb4a4m.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0623_zpskupb4a4m.jpg.html)
[size=78%](http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0625_zps7ukwq6cw.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0625_zps7ukwq6cw.jpg.html)[/size]
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0627_zpsmqwdxocm.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0627_zpsmqwdxocm.jpg.html)
yours may be white or grey.
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I used a CA to glue this on, the spot where it sits can be a bit uneven due to the molding process so I used a straight edge up the sides and front of the stem to line it up and will fill the gaps later.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0626_zps5ij8ly0b.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0626_zps5ij8ly0b.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0632_zpslt3trobj.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0632_zpslt3trobj.jpg.html)
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That's pretty much it for the hull and decks, now for the wheelhouse, there's probably not much that needs explaining other than the parts should only fit together one way (if you find a different way, well done) as it is difficult to clamp I generally hold it all together with a couple of rubber bands as you will see from the pictures.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0634_zpsk4xdxfk4.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0634_zpsk4xdxfk4.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0635_zpsmnuhduhm.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0635_zpsmnuhduhm.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0636_zpsjnbex01i.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0636_zpsjnbex01i.jpg.html)
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(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0637_zpsxszszkq6.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0637_zpsxszszkq6.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0638_zpspjb18hve.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0638_zpspjb18hve.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0640_zpsrumhvotw.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0640_zpsrumhvotw.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0641_zpscnhl0bdz.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0641_zpscnhl0bdz.jpg.html)
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(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0644_zpsvcmkzpyo.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0644_zpsvcmkzpyo.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0645_zpsx6garecp.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0645_zpsx6garecp.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0646_zpsv7h4dtua.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0646_zpsv7h4dtua.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0648_zps2gzf5aee.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0648_zps2gzf5aee.jpg.html)
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(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0651_zpsamqrd5cu.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0651_zpsamqrd5cu.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0652_zpshhvsafxo.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0652_zpshhvsafxo.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0653_zpsaflgs4v5.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0653_zpsaflgs4v5.jpg.html)
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(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0657_zps0cdgyvhu.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0657_zps0cdgyvhu.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0658_zps8w6wr8d3.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0658_zps8w6wr8d3.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0659_zpsumsni5la.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0659_zpsumsni5la.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0660_zpst0qkxrop.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0660_zpst0qkxrop.jpg.html)
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(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0662_zpsy4xv4eqf.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0662_zpsy4xv4eqf.jpg.html)
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(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0663_zpsag442kp9.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0663_zpsag442kp9.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0664_zpsxvl0gli2.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0664_zpsxvl0gli2.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0665_zpsdicadkr4.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0665_zpsdicadkr4.jpg.html)
Notice how the pins go through the holes and underneath the 1.5mm roof panel
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0667_zpsyzi60kn6.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0667_zpsyzi60kn6.jpg.html)
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If you hold the roof down tightly and push the pins in firmly they will hold it down nicely until your glue dries, then cut them off flush with the roof and fill the holes.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0668_zpsylqekg8n.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0668_zpsylqekg8n.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0670_zpsmzajfung.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0670_zpsmzajfung.jpg.html)
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Probably the most tedious part is the wrap around visor, I felt like i needed at least 7 more fingers to fit mine, firstly slide the sides all the way onto their tabs then lay them back until they are touching the edge of the roof and the underside of the their locating tab.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0671_zps6od4n1yn.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0671_zps6od4n1yn.jpg.html)
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0674_zpsbctjvpts.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0674_zpsbctjvpts.jpg.html)
[size=78%](http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0672_zpseyyudbca.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0672_zpseyyudbca.jpg.html)[/size]
[/size]
Then slot the front visor over it's tab and pull it around the curve, I found I had to play with them a bit until I was happy then run a bead of glue from behind.
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Later the joins on the corner will be filled and sanded fair.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0677_zpsbbasgh7j.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0677_zpsbbasgh7j.jpg.html)
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Lookin' good :-)) .
Mark
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Glad you like it Mark :)
If anyone watching uses facebook Albert now has his own page, I'm hoping builders of Albert's will share their experiences and pictures of their boat's in action.
https://www.facebook.com/Albert-The-Tug-514631785369763/timeline/?ref=hl
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Phillip,
Greetings.
Is there a reference line on the hull, for the intended waterline location? or a measurement down from the Bullwarks Cap Rail??
I post the question here, as others may have the same query?
Thank You.
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Hello Tug Hercules Fireman the measurement I took from the original Albert was 25mm up from the flat bottom, I'm just throwing some paint on mine at the moment and will try to get some photos up soon.
Phill
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I think 35mm up from the bottom looks right then the white strip above that.
(http://i935.photobucket.com/albums/ad199/mermod/IMG_0776_zpspxwdunpl.jpg) (http://s935.photobucket.com/user/mermod/media/IMG_0776_zpspxwdunpl.jpg.html)
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Phillip,
Looks excellent.
The white boot strip looks good on there.
Will be interested to see where she actually floats at, when loaded with all hardware, in the pond.
Thank You.
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What a lovely looking tug...there is one thing that really concerns me with this build is that you have not once sanded any of the burnt edges on the plywood after it has been cut with a laser....every kit I have built with wood has warned about the dangers of not cleaning the edges up....I would have thought the joints will be substantionaly weakened ?
Dave
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Hi Stavros, I have been working with laser cut ply for a few years now, as well as the boats I build I also make a lot of boxes for knife makers and I have never had a laser cut joint fail, all the ply that I use is still very open in the grain after cutting which allows the glue to get in, I have done a few jobs using customer supplied ply particularly high quality marine ply that is very dense and does leave a very smooth cut that is not wonderful for gluing but I assure you there is no problem with the ply I'm using for the kit's, I certainly wouldn't put it to a boil test like the marine ply but it's fine for modelling.
The other problem that can occur with laser cut ply is an incorrectly set air assist or using the air assist when not necessary as this can cause excess charring that will definitely need sanding, kind of like when you light the wood heater, if you have a nice flame going then blow air onto it and it charcoals up without necessarily burning much, well it is burning but not nicely.
Being a one man operation gives me the freedom to change my settings as I need to because I handle every part, I find the majority of the ply in the kit likes the air assist but the 1.5 roof and visor will charcoal up on the edges if I don't turn it off.
I hope this allays allays any concerns you may have.
Phill
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Hi Phill
Do you use a filler to cover the wood grain before painting? Would something like Bondo be suitable?
Would Bondo be suitable for sealing the deck to hull? It would make sanding easier.
Do you have any photos of your setup for painting the waterline?
Ron Knepp
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Morning Ron, I use car body filler (bondo) for filling any holes and yes you can use it for filing between the deck and hull, as for filling the grain all I have done is to give it several heavy coats of spray primer, in the photo I posted before the grey/brown is the primer and the pink is an air dry putty for filling the small imperfections that show up after priming (stop putty or pin stop putty).
I will post some pictures of settiing up the waterline soon.
Thanks for watching
Phill
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G'day Albert Fans.
I've been a bit distracted over the last week or so, and therefore Albert has not been receiving the attention he deserves.
I have deviated away from the build by Phill, and have all the woodwork for the in hull structure done, and then decided to get on with the wheelhouse.
Everything slots together beautifully, and this applies to the main structure as well.
Biggest drama with the wheelhouse is that there are no 90 degree joints, and therefore every external joint needs bogging, along with all the slots and tabs.
The visor is a bit of a fiddle as mentioned in Phill's blog, but with a few rubber bands and small and large clamps it is achievable. I am using Aliphatic Resin adhesive and it doesn't have a quick grab and set, so the joints on the visor needed reinforcing with bog, and left overnight to harden off fully.
I have also decided to replace the planked door with a new one cut from 3mm ply ( for a steel effect finish ) and as I didn't like the porthole I am using a rectangular window, and will ask Phill nicely, to see if he can do me a nice laser cut frame to finish it off. This would be in keeping with the other frames supplied.
I'm also using some external hinges that I do in my business for 1/8th scale Landrover Defender rear doors, and this gives a 3D effect rather than the flat laser scribed Tee hinges on the supplied door.
One other little bitch is that I'm not a balsa lover, and the piece ( two pieces ) that is supplied for the funnel and needs to be shaped is not a big deal, but it's so soft and it dents so easily, and it's a pig to paint! Next time around I would be looking at a piece of PVC pipe or conduit at 38mm ( 1 1/2" ) OD that would be a better job and so much easier to paint. Half the pipe is not exactly what you need, but it would require a straight piece of roughly 5 - 6 mm down each side to finish the required section. This is not a criticsism of the kit, but just an observation by a modeller who dislikes Balsa!
I have also chopped the exhaust stack and raked it back to keep the rain out.
The lady who I'm doing this for prefers the new door treatment and the improved stack, so I'm heading in the right direction!
There's a lot more rubbing back and filling to do yet, but it's getting there.
Next step is the fitting out of the hull with the running gear. Still not totally convinced to go Brushless though. I know everybody raves about the Brushless motors, so I'll probably end up going that way, but the old stuff is what I'm familiar with!
More as it happens.
Ian.
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A couple of the images didn't attach, so we try again
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Thanks for the input Ian. I would like to see a photo of your porthole changes. I plan on using
brass jewel box hinges on the door. I ordered a kit several days ago and it will be interesting to see if the shipping
box can survive a 10,000+ mile trip.
Ron Knepp
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Ian,
Greetings.
Where did You get those nifty 3-D "1/8th scale Landrover Defender Rear Door" hinges??
Thank You.
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I've also have a Albert on its way to Southern California , :-)
Mark
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G'day Ron,
I'll try and get an image of the door done later today, but I simply traced the existing planked door on to a piece of 3mm ply, then picked a size that looked about right for the window and cut it out.
Like I said, I didn't like the plank effect or the porthole, so decided to change it.
I'm sure the box will survive the trip with no problems, but I guess that under the right circumstances it could get crushed like a brown paper bag!!! That's why we pay insurance!
Tug Hercules fireman,
I make the hinges as part of my product range for the 1/8 Landrover Defender bodies which I don't make. A mate of mine did the patternwork, as he built two Defenders, and the hinges that come with the body are garbage and nothing like the real thing. For the Landy they come as a set of two short hinges and one long hinge, but if Albert groupies want them, I can set them up as a set of 5 short hinges to do both the door ( either type ) and the forward hatch. If there's enough interest I could be open to supplying them.
I also do the bonnet hinges for the landy as well, but haven't yet tried it for the forward hatch. Will look at that and get back to you.
Mark W,
You far away guys won't be disappointed in the contents of the boxes when they arrive. This is a neat bit of kit!
Ian.
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Hopefully, images of my new door, and the new Hatch hinge, along with the door hinge used on the hatch.
Both types work, but the Door hinge is not paired left and right, so if used on the hatch. they will be two of a kind. Hope this makes sense!
Ian.
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Forgot to mention in my previous post, that if the Land Rover hinges are used like I am doing with my new door, that 3mm packer blocks need to be fitted under the hinge where it is to contact the body wall. As used on the Land Rover, the door is flush with the body of the vehicle, so the hinge plates are on the same plane.
If you were using these hinges on the as supplied planked door, they fit flush with no mods required, as the door frame is scribed as part of the door.
Ian.
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Looks great Ian
The hatch hinges would not look
right if they were not paired , but
not a problem on a door.
Ned
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Can anyone tell me where to get a kit and how much please.
Dave B
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G'day Dave,
Get in touch with Phill ( Mermod ) on his PM and he'll sort one for you.
Current price is AU$450.00 plus freight, and although that might seem a bit expensive to some, it leaves a lot of the better known kits for dead in quality and simplicity in building.
The main part of mine ( in-hull structure ) took less than an hour to assemble, then a bit longer to run glue around all joints.
I've been a bit distracted with work and other issues the last week or thereabouts, so haven't been able to put much time in, but did get the window frames glued on.
My thought's on the window frames, which I have passed on to Phill, is that I think they would look better in 1.5mm rather than the thicker, as supplied 3mm. I'll try and get an image up tomorrow.
Also, for those interested in the hinges for the door and hatch, they are just about ready to go under rubber, so if you are interested, drop me a PM and I'll give you more info.
Ian.
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Dave B I have sent you a PM ;)
Phill
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Hello all, I will finish this build log shortly, I'm not big on excuses but my mother in-law has been having a nasty cancer removed and some skin grafting done so my spare time has been spent travelling to and from hospital and sorting out family but I will be back at Albert soon, anyone waiting on kits, they are all packed and will be going out tomorrow.
Thanks for your patience
Phill
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Hi Phill
I am sorry to read about your family problems. Getting old comes with lots of problems, I should know.
Will you be providing tracking numbers with the kits? Ten thousand miles provide a lot of places to get lost.
Ron Knepp
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Hi Phill
I am sorry to read about your family problems. Getting old comes with lots of problems, I should know.
Will you be providing tracking numbers with the kits? Ten thousand miles provide a lot of places to get lost.
Ron Knepp
Ron,
I received an Albert kit from Phil; Got here (California) in perfect condition, very well packed. Phil sent me a tracking number as soon as he posted it with the shipping company. It was delivered in about 8 days :-) .
Mark
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Likewise for my deliver to Western Canada; Phillip provided the tracking number and it arrived in about ten days.
The quality of the kit is excellent; the hull is excellent; the quality of the wood and the lazer cuts is superb.
I have dry-assembled it and am very impressed.
Can't wait to get the drive train in and painted.
Tug Hercules
Fireman Rick
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Sorry guys, I have been away from the computer for a few days, Ron I have now sent you a PM with your tracking details, I hope your Albert arrives safely :)
Phill
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:-))...................
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Just a quick note to say that Albert made the short trip across the Tasman Sea and arrived safely. :-)) :-)) Unfortunately the wife was home when it arrived >>:-( >>:-( so some quick thinking was required. %)
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Just a quick note to say that Albert made the short trip across the Tasman Sea and arrived safely. :-)) :-)) Unfortunately the wife was home when it arrived >>:-( >>:-( so some quick thinking was required. %)
My favorite line is "It's not mine, I'm building it for someone" O0 .
Mark
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Just a quick note to say that Albert made the short trip across the Tasman Sea and arrived safely. :-)) :-))
Unfortunately the wife was home when it arrived >>:-( >>:-( so some quick thinking was required. %)
Oh dear, any idea when will you be allowed back in the house?
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Well, I'm a bit P'd off, as I finally get around to trying to post some progress on Albert, and the site crashes in the middle of it!
It was quite a lengthy update with images, but all gone!
Maybe I'll try again tomorrow.
Ian.
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Oh pooh. That is a bloomin nuisance. I hope your second attempt goes better.
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Well, I'm a bit P'd off, as I finally get around to trying to post some progress on Albert, and the site crashes in the middle of it!
It was quite a lengthy update with images, but all gone!
Maybe I'll try again tomorrow.
Ian.
These things do happen when technology is involved. The best thing to do is contact Martin (I used Facebook) and he will normally respond pretty quickly. Took 9 min from when I posted for the forums to be back up and running. Can't ask for better service than that in my view.
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Oh dear, any idea when will you be allowed back in the house?
I may have to buy some shoes.
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Well here we go again! Hope it works better than yesterday, but doing this from another puter, so don't know whether I'll be able to attach the images that I've sent to myself.
Finally cleared my order pile and was able to get back to Albert.
I found that when I fitted the urethane skeg to the fibreglass moulded skeg, it was far too tight, and having worked with urethane for an awful lot of years, chose to make it a slide fit.
If the urethane cast skeg had been a heavy interference fit, there would be a chance of it splitting in time, particularly in winter when everything has a habit of shrinking and turning brittle!
Anyway, spent a lot of time filing away lots of gelcoat until I had a nice light interference fit, then i found that the hole in the skeg for the rudder was too far back, so I ground about 1mm off the front edge on the linisher and now the rudder lines up perfectly. This also meant that by sliding the skeg forward, I had to remove more gelcoat from the back of the fibreglass skeg, as the pocket in the urethane skeg wasn't long enough after the removal of the mm or thereabouts. After talking to Phill about this thickening of the gelcoat, he suspects that the fibreglass moulder was not tightening the mould enough, allowing it to thicken in that area.
Another minor problem was that the round flange on the skeg where the rudder post hole is, needed to have a bit removed and thinned down a tad, as when it was all fitted up, the rudder was jamming and not swinging freely. I also deepened the hole in the skeg a little as well, and this helped to free things up. It now lines up perfectly and after the rudder is finally installed and the shaft greased, there should be little or no load on the servo.
In the interim since my failed attempt at this post yesterday, I have since applied two coats of sealer to the in hull structure, so now it starts to get serious!
Once this bit is in the hull and bogged in, there is no going back, so we have to make sure we get it right first time around!
More as it happens.
Ian.
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Ian,
Greetings.
Looking good.
What size prop did You use?
Could you post an overhead photo looking into the hull, so I can see where your shaft and stuffing tube ended up?
Thank You.
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Looking good Ian, would you like to post the brand and part number of the prop you used for future reference?
Phill
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G'day Rick,
I used a Raboesch 50mm x 4 blade prop, as that's about as big as you can fit, even though I would have liked a much bigger prop with fewer revs. If you could find a 52mm prop that would be the absolute biggest you could fit.
The tube is just floating at the moment and will probably need to be shortened from the 200mm current length. I'll try and get back to it tomorrow. I'm still struggling with Brushed or Brushless?
Ian.
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In response to Phill's request for more info on the prop, it's as follows.
Raboesch part No. 174-10 4B1-50-L-M4 This was originally part No.174-09 which was a RH ( european, from the front ) rotation, but has now been changed to what we non Europeans have always understood!
I originally wanted RH Rotation, but they were out of stock, so I just accepted the LH.
Ian.
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I am not sure if this a good deal or not but I just ordered this propeller on Ebay for $21.99 USD
with free shipping from China. This is the link to Ebay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121420407896?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/121420407896?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649)
Ron Knepp
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Looks like a good deal to me, as I bought mine locally and paid a lot more than that for it, plus postage!
Ian.
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Interesting....the Trade name branded product is top class.......package says made in the Netherlands, however being shipped from Taiwan {-)........however I am not necessarily suggesting that made in Asia these days has any quality associated issue
Marketing as we know can be funny at times........[Coles in Australia sell sustainably farmed, frozen beer battered white fish fillets as a product sourced from New Zealand waters, processed and packaged in China, then returned to OZ to eat O0......& they taste YUMMY] Derek
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Had a friend years ago who I worked with for many years, then she left the company and went to Iceland to work in a fish processing plant while working her way around the world.
She told me that when the fish were processed for fish fingers, all the worms in the fish got processed as well.
Same thing happens with Tomato sauce! Grubs and all! As long as you don't see the eyes it's not so bad!
Haven't eaten fish fingers for many years and probably never will!
Ian.
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Hi Phill,
My kit arrived today in fantastic condition, it looks like it will be lots of fun.
I have done a lot of model railroading but have never mounted a motor in a model boat.
If anyone has ideas or photos please share.
Ron Knepp
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That's excellent news Ron :-)) I have some bits arriving for my Albert soon and will show how I put the motor in mine, anyone else more advanced might like to show theirs.
Phill
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Blowing a gale here today, so no outdoorsy stuff.
Got back on to Albert and shortened the stuffing box tube to 7 inches and fitted the skeg, and then epoxied the skeg bolts/nuts and the stuffing box in place. I have allowed around 3/8th/10mm of tube through the skeg, and this puts the prop in about the ideal position.
One thing to watch here is, that it's easy to set the front of the shaft angle a tad too high, and this then results in the plywood frame fouling the tube by a little. Easy to fix! Cut away the offending ply and replace with a bridge piece out of 5mm timber which I'll also epoxy the tube to, when I get some more Araldite! I filed a groove in this piece to snugly fit over the stuffing box, then I'll apply some epoxy which will also stiffen the front of the stuffing box. Another plus for this extra bridging piece is that it will help hold the 6V battery in place.
Not a fantastic image, but you can see where the new piece is sitting over the tube.
Another item here, and I'm not sure whether Phill mentioned it in his build, are the two side box top frames. If these are fitted before the whole body is fitted into the hull, it won't fit. Well it wouldn't on mine, so I took them off , cleaned all the glue off and put them aside until the final fit.
That's about it for today, as no epoxy, no progress!
Ian.
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And before anybody comments on the wonky angle on the bridging piece, it's only held by gravity in the image, so when it finally gets glued, I would hope I get it right!
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Thanks for the updates Ian, I am right behind you. What did you use to coat the assembly before
final installation in the hull??
Ron Knepp
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G'day Ron,
I had plenty of a clear furniture sealant called Estapol on hand, so rather than go out and buy something like Everdure which is a better sealant for the full sized boats, I just used up what I had. If the model was to be in the elements full time, then you would consider something like Everdure.
Ian.
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Finally made the decision to go Brushless and fitted the motor today after a bit of fiddling to get the motor mount at the right angle.
Decided to go with a rigid coupling which I turned up and drilled and tapped for the two grub screws. If I got this bit right it should run nice and quietly with little or no vibration.
I used a Turnigy D2836/11 750kv outrunner from Hobbyking Aust, which should give heaps of power with not too many revs. That should give a maximum of 4500 rpm at 6V or 5400 rpm at 7.2v.
These motors are just so small compared to the old style we have used for years
Just have to sort the wiring, fit the steering servo, program the speed control which I'm not looking forward to, and then get a coat of paint started.
Ian.
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G'day all who are interested.
A bit more progress with the front Filled inside the bulwarks using car filler which actually went way better than expected. It's pretty easy to sand the filler back as it's easily accessible.
Then I fitted the Cap Rail. This bit is a bit more challenging, as the fibreglass hull varies a little in thickness and is not totally symetrical. Well mine's not! Anyway, managed to get it done after finding the starboard side cap rail was a bit too close to the wheelhouse, so carefully cut it partially away with a Stanley Knife, and re-aligned it with the Wheelhouse in place, and was able to get it exactly the same distance both sides.
Also have the rudder servo in and working, so all is almost good! Still having issues with the Brushless motor! Full throttle forward is 100%, but can only get about 10% astern. Have tried re-programming the esc many times , but always the same result. Might have to get a Programming Card, but never had these problems with the old brushed motors!
And this motor is a screamer! Wish now that I had gone with brushed which are nice and quiet if you use the right one.
Just a note here on the choice of servo for this build. I used a JR NES 505 which is a big tall servo, and only because I have a bunch of them in stock, but they are a bit big for Albert and a bit of a fiddle to fit! A smaller Futaba or similar will be an easier fit. It's not like you need a lot of power for this job.
So, today I got the hull primed and ready for paint. Can of Black auto enamel had gone off with age, so off to the local smash repairer tomorrow to try and borrow a can of black. Black is not a colour I normally use, and don't want to use rattle cans, so will try and get a sample rather than buy a large quantity that won't get used ( much ).
Just an aside here for anybody just starting their build.
When you put your back wall on the wheelhouse, make sure you have the round porthole on the starboard side, coz that's where your door has to go!
Ian.
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Thanks for the update Ian. I am nearly finished with the wooden part of the kit. It is the best engineered
kit I have built. I took a couple days off after ODing on super glues fumes. I should have known better since
I had done this a coupled days ago. I am going to try to put the motor under the foredeck since I would like
to detail the inside of the cabin. My son says I should have Popeye as the captain. I am waiting for propeller
before starting on the fiberglass.
Keep the updates coming.
Ron Knepp
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Just in case you thought I had gone for good, I'm back!
I had been waiting for some parts to allow me to get on with the build, but as they hadn't turned up as expected, I got on and made my own bits, as he had been sitting idle for too long.
Almost complete except for some paint and the glazing needs fitting as well, but not too far off now.
Ian.
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While I was waiting for Albert to arrive way back in the beginning, I was keen to get on with doing something to fill some spare time I had, so I cut up some packing case material, some old plywood I had lying about and got started on Derrick!
This little boat is not a Springer, but a Dredge Tender built from a plan I downloaded off the web. It's only 20 inches by 8 1/4 inches, so 2 inches longer than a Springer.
It runs a 50mm prop ( same as Albert ) powered by a brushed car aerial motor. Hasn't been wet yet, but if the motor is a bit slow, I'll change it for a 540 type motor out of a RC Car. A mate re-powered a bunch of his cars, so I ended up with 4 motors that he didn't want. These are the same body diameter as the aerial motor, so it'll be a simple change-over should it be necessary.
This model is at about the same stage as Albert, just needing some handrails fitted, mast and nav light boxes, along with the window glazing.
The 5 single bollards are cast urethane off a master I made, and the towing bit is 1/2 inch copper pipe with a 1/4 inch brass bar between.
It's amazing how much time a simple model like this can consume, but its been fun!
Ian.
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Thanks for the update Ian.
I have been stalled waiting for the driveshaft that is in a distrbution center a couple hundred miles north.
A couple years ago our postal system was improved and has been screwed up since. I ordered a special photo order from a producer about 75 miles east that was shipped to a distribution center 50 miles west and lost. The Post Office would not look for it for 30 days.
The one part of the kit that I did not like was the exhaust stack casing. I used a piece of 1 1/4 plastic pipe that I milled to fit. The balsa strip supplied did not suit me.
I am not pleased with the hinges yet either. I did not find any brass hinges that suited me. I drilled out the screw indents and replace then with screw heads but don't like the effect.
Ron Knepp
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Thought it about time to give an update on where Albert is current at!
Basically he's finished and waiting to be wet, except for sourcing a suitable rope type bow fender, as I don't think tyres would look the part on this boat.
He was to be trialled this morning, but after charging the Tx batteries last night and re-fitting them this morning, Tx was dead! Didn't have the time to find the problem, as I was on my way out, so when I got back, checked each individual battery on the multimeter which showed they were all good, put them back in the Tx and it worked perfectly! Looks like he'll be getting his first dunking in the frogpond here tomorrow!
Fitting the glazing, I found that after painting, the window openings had shrunk, so a bit of individual fitting was needed for each window panel. Tedious but necessary! I used the sanding disc on my linisher which takes the excess off in quick time! I then used an Acrylic Contact Adhesive, which dries clear, and actually applied this to the back edges of the glazing after putting them in place, and allowed it to run into the frame. I removed the front protective film before fitting the panels, but left the rear film on to minimise the glue getting on the window face. A very small amount of glue did run through and become visible of the window face ( on the outside ), but was not enough to be a problem. I weighted each panel with lead blocks to hold it in place while the glue went off, so the whole job was a bit slow, as you can only do one side at a time. Note here, that you don't need to flood the joint with glue, but just each corner should be enough. If you need it waterproof you will need to seal them all round, but it doesn't rain much where I live so it won't be a problem!
I'm still undecided on the Brushless motor, but will give it a run and see how it goes. With the wheelhouse in place it's not as noisy as when it's open. Hopefully the water will help absorb some of the noise as well.
Anyway, that's about it for now, except for the Fender, so for now I'll get back to Derrick!
Ian.
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Lovely job Ian!
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Just have to sort the wiring, fit the steering servo, program the speed control which I'm not looking forward to, and then get a coat of paint started.
Ian.
Ian
I use very similar Turnigy motors and ESCs and I bought a program card after reading about trying to set them up without one. Best fiver I ever spent.
Dave M
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Thanks for the positive comment Martin, but it's not my best paint job. Used a rattle can for the mustard colour and you don't get the best control like you can with an airbrush. I only went rattle can because that was the easiest way to get the colour I wanted.
Dave M,
Thanks for the info on the programming, and I have a friend up here who has the required card, so when he's back from hols I'll get him to tweak it.
It's going OK, but reverse still only gives me about 20% of what I get in forward. It's a car controller, so that may have some bearing on the problem. I have re-programmed by the button method a number of times, but still get the same result. It still functions OK for general running, but I'd like more power in reverse for serious stopping if required.
Ian.
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Lovely job Ian.
The model is a very attractive design and you have done it justice. I would not worry abothe finish too much as it represents a working boat which may not be completly re-painted again during its life but touched up as and when needed to keep things fit for duty.
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G'day ballastanksian.
Thanks for your positive comments, as this is for my lady who thought he was so cute when Phill first put up his post.
Normally on a scale model I would finish it in a matt or semi gloss, but on this one I think the gloss looks OK. My lady is happy with it, so that's all that really matters!
I use Quick Dry Industrial Enamels for most of my work, whether it be models, tractors or trucks, as I find it gives a good finish straight off the gun or airbrush.
I leave the two pack for the professionals, and as the original two pack was highly dangerous unless applied in an approved booth with an airwash mask and independent air supply, you really are dicing with an early end to your hobby. Same goes for the two pack polyurethane resins that are being used quite widely now in model making. If it has Isocyanates it's extremely dangerous, as there is no cartridge type respirator that will filter these nasties out of what you breathe. If you are curious as to how I know this, I'm a professional model manufacturer and use polyurethane, and have been through the drama of having to install fume extraction systems in my work area to make it safe!
Ian.
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I am glad I do not use PU regularly Ian.
I am pleased to see there are a growing collection of wives and 'Uvver arves' taking an interest in the hobby. You and Norman both now have suitably equipped spouses :-))
TTFN, from Ian:O)
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Finally got a chance to wet Albert on the weekend, but my hesitations about the brushless motor turned out to be well founded.
At low, and probably scale speed he toddles along nicely, but when you give him a few more amps he runs a short while then the speed control cuts out and he goes no further. Turn the power off, then on again and all back to normal until it gets a bit warm again and same result.
So there's a couple of options here, and that's get a bigger than the current 30amp controller, or gut him and go back to a brushed motor system.
We'll give him another run on the new found Billabong tomorrow and see what happens, but I'm guessing it'll be a repeat of Saturday.
We spoke to a local farmer who I know quite well, and he has a natural watercourse on his 1200 acres that he's given us permission to run on. It's a bit reedy on one side and probably not suitable for the big boats, but it's close to home ( 11 kms ) and private! This pond is constantly replenished by underground bore water, as it's used as a surface reservoir for his travelling irrigator which is currently watering 360 acres of maize, to be used as silage for the cattle feedlot next door. At the end of the maize crop there is a small plot of sweet corn which we are allowed to raid tomorrow, which is when it's ready for picking!
Unlike you lucky poms, we don't have many council managed model ponds in Australia, and in the country where I live there is little accessible water of any kind, particulary due to the 4th year of drought.
I might just mention here also, that I think the suggested waterline of 35mm up from the bottom is not quite enough, as that's what I've used on my Albert, and with a 6v x 4.5ah battery he sits lower in the water than ideal. Changing to a LiPo probably wouldn't make that much difference!
Ian.
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Looks great :-)) . Mine's still waiting to be started (my daughters done with college, she wants to build it).
Mark
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G'day Mark,
He does look good whether he's on the water or just sitting on his stand as an ornament. I still have to get the bow fender/pudding, which will really finish him off. And maybe a character figure to fill out the wheelhouse!
Gave him another good long run on the billabong this morning with no issues. Ran him constantly at about half throttle for over 45 mins with no issues and an occasional increase to three quarter throttle with no cutting out like the other day. He was starting to get hot towards the end so I then gave him some full stick which caused him to shut down. So I guess if we don't get him too hot, the current drive system can remain in place. Ideally he needs a reduction of maybe 3-1 so the motor runs more freely. The 50mm x 4 blade prop has a lot of blade area to drive for a small motor!
Ian.
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I am guessing that it is the controller that is getting too hot but how warm is the motor.
I know that Chinese controllers are often over optimistic in their power ratings but I would expect a 30amp controller to be more than big enough for this model. How much current is the motor drawing?
My initial guess is that the motor is in a near stall condition because it is not really capable of driving the prop. Amps will tell all.
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Albert is lookin' good Ian! It is a shame about the issues you are having with your transmission but I am sure you will make it work like it should.
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Really a nice job :-))
Any video in the pond???
Best regards
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Here's some footage of mine in action :)
https://www.facebook.com/Albert-The-Tug-514631785369763/videos?video_upload_notif=1¬if_t=video_processed¬if_id=1460454348903428
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Cool vid's :-)) . Waiting for my daughter to finish university in May, so we (she) can start on ours :-) . Nice pond also.
Mark
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Hi Mark, you might like to know that in the end a 50mm prop was way too much, in the video I am running a 30mm 3 blade prop with a Hobbyking Donkey 720KV motor and a 2.2ah 2cell lipo, we had a ball that afternoon, just about every kid walking past had a go, we performed a few rescues and although I didn't really keep track of time it seemed to run for ages, we were down there for about 3 hours :)
Phil
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Phil,
Great, thanks.
Mark
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After receiving some negative feedback on having to shape Albert's funnel from balsa I have decided to now supply that part as a 2 piece vacuum formed part which should make life alot easier for Albert builders :)
I'm in the process of perfecting my vac former and making the master for the funnel and needed a simple project to get an idea of what I could form and what thickness of material I could use and the beginnings of another little kit was kinda born, only early stages but you get the idea.
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/DSCF3668_zpsjtkujomr.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/DSCF3668_zpsjtkujomr.jpg.html)
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/DSCF3667_zpsc2zkgyre.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/DSCF3667_zpsc2zkgyre.jpg.html)
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/DSCF3655_zps7t6vzxnw.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/DSCF3655_zps7t6vzxnw.jpg.html)
Phill
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That's a cool looking boat. :-)) :-))
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Back to Albert!
Finally fitted a smaller 35mm 3 blade prop which now doesn't seem to load the little 28mm brushless as much as the big 50mm x 4 blade one did, but it did drop the performance, and I went back to the 30amp ESC which has smoothed the lower rev end of the range, and has also quietened the motor a little, but my Lady still doesn't like the whine of the motor at more than very low revs, so it's out with the Brushless and in with a Brushed motor! Right at the beginning of this saga I was leaning more towards the brushed, as that's what I know best!
I'll use one of the motors the same or similar to that I used in the Dredge Tender, which also runs the same 50mm x 4 blade prop that was used originally on Albert. This 12v motor comes out of an electric car aerial and is 37mm diam, and running on 6v toddles along very nicely with almost no sound. I could also use a bigger 50mm diameter motor, also out of a car aerial, if it will fit. This motor has heaps of power at low revs, so could be a better choice, dependent on space.
Back in the old days in the early 80's when I first got into this hobby, I collected every 6v and 12v motor I could find, and I have boxes full, so plenty to choose from!
More as it happens.
Ian.
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Glad to hear you have Albert up and running Ian, I've had quite few good sails with mine, I found dropping the prop size to be a much better idea also, mind you, I don't get much of a chance to sail it when the kids are at the lake with me :)
Phill
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G'day Phill,
Albert has been running a good while now, but Linda finds the whine of the Brushless annoys her so it looks like it has to go. Should have done it sooner, but at least its been a bit of a learning curve to get where we are at! Tomorrow it comes out, then I see how big I can fit in its place.
I've been playing with a fast boat that I bought on ebay very cheap. Just the hull, but I put a Brushless in that and wet it today for the first time and it's a ( big ) bit of fun. Goes like all stink on a 3s and Linda loves it, even with the scream of the 2836 1500kv! Canabus has been helping with some input. Check it out under "Unknown fast boat"
How did you go with the floods? Must have been close to your place. Also how about the farm? Did they survive it all OK?
Ian.
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The worst hit town was Latrobe, 10 mins down the road where we had our shop, had we still been there we would have been up to our waist's in rapidly flowing water, scary stuff, the yacht club which is just down the road got absolutely smashed, I was down there at about 10am taking photo's of the boats that had been thrown around overnight, others had dragged their moorings and quite a few had washed out to sea, later on that afternoon the marina, along with the rest of the boats tied to it broke loose and washed away.
(http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q760/Phillip_Sachman/IMG_1368_zpsnay3mwtp.jpg) (http://s1357.photobucket.com/user/Phillip_Sachman/media/IMG_1368_zpsnay3mwtp.jpg.html)
This yacht turned sideways increased the water pressure against the main pylons
Then this happened
https://www.facebook.com/1426322751000448/videos/1565138307118891/
https://www.facebook.com/1426322751000448/videos/1565138977118824/
Luckily the in-laws farm was safe however some neighbors lost up to 300 head of cattle
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G'day Phill,
Glad you and the family missed the worst of the floods, but you have to feel for the poor people who lost something or everything. But this is typical of what happens here in this great country. Years of drought, then floods! Just have to try and make sure you live in the right areas that are not affected when the big rains do come!
Back to Albert!
This morning I removed the Brushless and am in the process of fitting a bigger ( 50mm diam ) and quieter Brushed motor. Way bigger than needed, but I have a bunch of them and it fits, so why not?
This will allow the 50mm 4 blade prop to be re-fitted to give quiet, smooth and low speed thrust.
Just now sorry I hadn't done this in the beginning, as it would have saved a lot of time and frustration!
Ian.
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Hi Ian!!!
Any picture with whe new motor??
Best regards
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Hi escipion,
We have has a lot of wet weather over the last few weeks and the river has been in flood, so all boats have been left in the shed.
Weather has improved over the last few days and I might take them out this weekend and get some new images.
Very cold though, and I just checked a water bowl near my back door and there's still sheet of ice on it about 6mm thick, and it's 2.30pm and temperature is now 13.1 C. This morning it was -5.5 C and everything was very white. That's the coldest we've had in years!
Ian.
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looking at the picture of the two motors, the brushless one is simply the wrong size and KV rating. about half the kv, and a "pancake" motor and it would have been fine, although the "ringing" would still be there. i fly multirotors (not often enough), and they sound better when they're away from me.
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Wooow!!!! :o Hope you are ok
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Got a chance to wet Albert with the new brushed drive system today, and the lady is so much happier. She says she's 100% happier, as she enjoys running him now that he doesn't have that annoying brushless whine, which was amplified in the hull and upperworks.
Silent running today, until I hooked up 3S pack in place of the 6V lead acid. Made a big difference to the power, until we screwed the prop shaft sleeve loose! All good now after re-tightening the Alloy coupler half onto the brass split sleeve. I had to bush the coupling half from 5mm to 4mm shaft, as these couplings come with a minimum 5mm bore.
Only issue now is to maybe change the ESC, as the cheap one fitted gives 100% forward, but a lot less astern. Typical car unit. Will probably fit a 110amp EL type ( SE082 ) off Ebay which is what I run in the Dredge Tender, and it runs fine in both directions.
Didn't take any images, as I forgot the camera!
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Steamboat66,
The little brushless actually worked fine until you really gave it some throttle and it then overheated the 30amp ESC. Put in a bigger 45amp ESC and it performed a lot better, but the noise was the issue. I even reduced the size of the prop to 35mm x 3 blade and it ran cooler and had no performance, but was still too noisy. I was going to upsize to a 35mm Brushless, but the noise would still have been an issue so decided to go brushed. Albert is now running a 50mm diam motor with a 50mm 4 blade tug prop and it seems to be working.
I have the same size 2836 motor in a fast boat, but 1500KV, and it goes like all stink on 3s with a 32mm 2 blade, and the lady doesn't mind the noise on this one, as it helps to keep her awake! She needs to be on the ball with this boat, as things happen very quickly at that speed and I told her that if she puts it in the reeds, she swims for it, as there's no other way of getting it out unless we take the canoe! We don't have the luxury of council run large model ponds like they do in the UK, so we use a pond in the river, which is quite long but not too wide, and a lot of reed clumps as hazards. And it's 26kms from home!
The old rule of thumb with brushed motors was that you used the same diameter motor to suit the diameter of the prop, or close to it, and it seemed to work. And still does!
Most of my tugs are belt driven at around 3 - 1, and one of them runs a 6" x 4 blade using a fan motor out of a car and it's about 3" diam and will run all day on a car battery, with plenty in reserve.
Ian.
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How close is this to being a ripoff of Ian's build of Albert???
https://www.facebook.com/LextekModellwerft/photos/ms.c.eJw9yMERACAIA7CNvFJogf0X86V5JizINS1mcXHixcht5o~_JBVa~_BBEKOA~-~-.bps.a.1649875885303189.1073741835.1533451650278947/1650564875234290/?type=3&theater
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Topic tidied up >:-o
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Steamboat66,
... but the noise was the issue. I even reduced the size of the prop to 35mm x 3 blade and it ran cooler and had no performance, but was still too noisy....
Ian.
Interesting! What kind of noisy? The high pitched brushless whiny noise, or prop noise?
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G'day Martin,
High pitched brushless whine! Really goes through your head, but going to the bigger brushed motor solved all problems. Basically silent running now. And also, the cheap brushed ESC gives equal performance both forward and reverse, which the brushless didn't.
But, like I said somewhere in a previous post a while go, the brushless 2836- 1500kv running the fast boat, is acceptable by my lady, who owns both Albert and the Fast boat. She hated the whine in Albert to the point where she didn't want to run him, but now she's a very happy lady.
And thanks for sorting those previous posts which were totally out of order.
Ian.
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Thanks much for this whole string.
I love the kit and am
Getting the info to buy and build.
Cheers
Lynn Easton
Toronto Ca
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G'day Lynn,
You won't be sorry, as this is a really nice kit. Well thought out and the laser cutting is excellent, so it's pretty easy to put together.
It's a great little runner as well, but I'm much happier with the Brushed setup, after the dramas of the Brushless.
Any problems just ask, and one of us should be able to help.
Ian.
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Thanks Ian
There's so much to digest here on Mayhem, I'm not getting much on my current build...Hemingway's Pilar.
looking forward, to future comms.
~L~
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G'day Lynn,
When you get the kit, you'll find you can assemble the laser cut in hull ply frame in about 20 minutes, then run your glue around all the joints and leave to set. It's so well planned and cut, that it fits together without the need for a building jig or frame, as it is totally self supporting without distortion. Just brilliant! I saturated my frame with a clear timber sealer to waterproof it all before the next step.
Once that bit is done, little trimming is required to get it to drop in the hull. This kit makes you lazy, as it's just so well thought out and it virtually falls together! Not like some!
Ian.
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Ian
Still havent heard back from Phil about a purchase....
So you think the kit is still available?
Or, is it thru some one else.
Any suggestions here?
Thanks
~L~
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Hi lynneatson, sorry it's taken awhile for me to get back to you regarding Albert, yes the kit's are still available and I am about to do another run of them very very soon, things have been very hectic here and I am behind in replying to all enquiries.
They are still $450.00 AUD and as soon as I can I will get a quote on freight for you, would you like it express or would you prefer a cheaper rate?
Phill
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ahoy Phil
Thanks for your reply.
I do understand being overwhelmed at times and there is not a great rush as long as we know we are underway.
How would you prefer to be paid? Visa, paypal, or? Just let me know when you can.
I am ready to order when you are.
Should I send shipping info etc to you via private message?
I am really excited about Albert.
This is great.
Do you have any other customers in the Toronto area.
Are you on Facebook?
Again Thx
Lynn Easton
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Hello Phil
Any further progress on getting your kit? Thanks
Regards
Lynn
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G'day Lynn,
Its all gone very quiet, so just wondering if there's any progress?
Ian.
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Hello Ian
I would still like to order and build your tug.
Please tell me what you need from me to order
My address is....
( Address removed from open Internet by Admin - Mermod, Phil will contact you by PM )
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G'day again Lynn,
It's Phil ( Mermod ) who does the kit, not me.
Thought you might have had it by now, that's all.
Ian.
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Oh Woops
Sorry for the confusion...
I'm having a heck of a time ordering this tug.
I would love to say it's well under way , however...
Thanks for the note
Carry on
~L~
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Hi Lynne, sorry for the delay, Albert has been on the back burner for a while now but I do have enough parts to do you a kit (finally) I have been using this build log as the instructions so I'm not sure how you will go now Photobucket have blocked half of them, having said that you really cant go wrong with the building system I use.
If you would like to PM me your details I will get a freight quote for you, as before the kits are $450 AUD and payment is through PayPal (plus the PayPal fee) as it's been a while since I sent one out it might take me a few days as I will cut a complete kit and get a firm quote on freight.
Again I do apologize for taking some time in getting back to you, unfortunately health and family life have taken priority for some time now.
Phill
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G'day Lynn,
"xxxxx" if I know where all my images went on this thread, as they were mine and loaded directly by me, nothing to do with that Phototrashbucket bunch!
Anyway, if you need any images or help, I've still got most, if not all of them on file here.
I notice that some of Phill's early images are still active on this thread, or were when I checked a few minutes ago.
Ian
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That's a good question for Martin.
What happened to all the images that went missing from the thread that had no connection with the Ransomware mob?
Ian
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Yes, that is very strange?!?
Phil, when you get a chance, download your Photobucket Album / photo and I'll reinsert them for you. :-))
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,58456.msg611157.html#msg611157
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Thank's Martin, I will do, I have been trying to download my bucket but it keeps stalling and giving me error message (oops something went wrong try again later)
Phill
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Get well soon Phill, you have some advanced kit design ideas and I hope you can do more in the future.
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Get well soon Phill, you have some advanced kit design ideas and I hope you can do more in the future.
Thank's for that, I do what I can when I can, seems to be a roller coaster arrangement, up one minute down the next, I'm just not game enough to have the necessary surgery........so many risks, modify the way you live and put up with fatigue and the constant feeling of being on a boat or have the surgery and maybe turn out ok or still have the same symptoms plus be deaf as well, I love my music too much to risk that :)
Phill
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Martin,
Any clues as to why my images went missing from this thread? Like i mentioned previously, they were directly loaded by me and no third party involvement!
Ian.
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Martin,
Any clues as to why my images went missing from this thread? Like i mentioned previously, they were directly loaded by me and no third party involvement!
Ian.
I can see your photo in all these posts?! {:-{
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,52388.msg548072.html#msg548072
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,52388.msg545707.html#msg545707
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,52388.msg544213.html#msg544213
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Martin......we all do appreciate your efforts O0 in returning images to postings, .......however with the first post link below ......
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,52388.msg548072.html#msg548072
All of the photographs are OK until Reply #16 in September 2015, when the PB speedometer >>:-( overtakes and eliminates each image
Derek
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That's a Photobucket issue! >:-o
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Martin......we all do appreciate your efforts O0 in returning images to postings, .......however with the first post link below ......
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,52388.msg548072.html#msg548072 (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,52388.msg548072.html#msg548072)
All of the photographs are OK until Reply #16 in September 2015, when the PB speedometer >>:-( overtakes and eliminates each image
Derek
I have nor got any images for the first few posts up to mid September nor from May 22 2016 either.
What is your secret for keeping some live whilst loosing others?
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How wierd is this?
Can't get any of my images on my Win7 system, but a lot of Phill's are there, but strangely, they are now all where they should be on my Chromebase System! They weren't, but they are now!
The wonders of modern technology!
Ian.
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All I know is that I have 2 photobucket accounts, I don't think they have caught up with the newer one yet :)
Phill
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Have you downloaded the albums yet? :-)
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I have one of them Martin but keep getting errors when I try for the other, I'll keep trying today.
Phill
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Have you downloaded the albums yet? :-)
So I have been trying to download my albums with no luck, just errors, emailed photobucket and they are saying that the bulk download feature is broken and I have to download photos individually :(
sounds like a way to stop people deserting the site to me :(
Phill
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Keep trying !
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Hi Tim, haven't had much of a chance lately, my old dad has had a heart attack and it looks like we have to find somewhere he can be cared for full time as well as sorting out his house.
Phill
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This has gone very quiet, and I'm curious as to what happened to the other Albert kits that were sold?
Thought I would try and kick it off again.
Ian.
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Hi Ian, nice to hear from you, there are a few Alberts around the world now but I haven't heard from many, there is one on RCgroups that looks great, as for the kits, well life has taken quite a few twists and turns, needed throat surgery earlier in the year then I had some brain surgery a few months back, I'm still getting over that lot and they tell me it's about 12 months before I will feel the benefit.
The Albert kits are still on the list of things to re start along with my mini logging tugs and a couple of other kits I have been playing with, sadly I can't work with fibreglass anymore and I had to do a lot of trimming of the Albert hull after they arrived from the company that did them for me so I'm putting most of my energy into a large format vacuum former..............watch this space :)
Regards
Phill
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Some of that is OUCHY :o news Phil .....wishing you and your future vac forming all the best........Derek
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G'day Phill,
Sorry to hear about your medical issues and hope that your health is better for it.
Our Albert hasn't been wet in quite a while, as the drought here is so bad there is no water around like there used to be.
Best wishes,
Ian.
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This has gone very quiet of late, and no word from the guys in the USA that were building Albert.
Ian.