Model Boat Mayhem

Mess Deck: General Section => Beginners start here...! => Topic started by: CliveJ on October 03, 2015, 11:51:04 am

Title: Fuse Protection ESC ?
Post by: CliveJ on October 03, 2015, 11:51:04 am
I am in the process of putting together a Slipway 500

I am looking to put a fuse link (mini blade type) to protect the ESC

The wiring diagram with the kit shows the fuse link on the - VE wire - is there a reason it is on the negative wire ? or can the fuse be put on the +VE ?

Thanks in advance

Title: Re: Fuse Protection ESC ?
Post by: malcolmfrary on October 03, 2015, 01:57:52 pm
My personal preference is to regard the battery -ve as the ground or earth line, and put the fuse in the +ve, but for a simple installation it should not make any real difference.
Title: Re: Fuse Protection ESC ?
Post by: sparkey on October 03, 2015, 02:09:39 pm
 :-)) No reason whatsoever,as long as there is the correct rated fuse between the battery and the ESC it does not make any difference which pole it is on,some diagrams show V+ and others show V- ,I always put the fuse on V+ but that is just me,more important is to fuse close as possible  to the max rating of the motor,I always under rate the fuse a bit and if it blows I upgrade to the next size up.....Ray :-))
Title: Re: Fuse Protection ESC ?
Post by: jaymac on October 03, 2015, 06:49:26 pm
If you are looking at 10A or less the mini auto reset breakers at maplins are fine
Jay
 
   http://www.maplin.co.uk/search?text=circuit%20breaker (http://www.maplin.co.uk/search?text=circuit%20breaker)
Title: Re: Fuse Protection ESC ?
Post by: knoby on October 03, 2015, 07:14:02 pm
The protocol is to put the fuse in the +ve, but in practice it makes little difference. A club 500 will pull 28 amps for a split second as the motor starts, but settles down to around  12 amps once flat out & will pull 88 amps if you manage to stall it, so a fuse is a really good idea. Most I have seen us a 25 amp fuse to combat the initial surge, safe in the knowledge that a stalled motor will easily blow a 25 amp fuse, but make sure the fuse is rated below the ESC rating.
Keep an eye on the fuse as it will eventually blow due to the constant initial surges from start, make sure you use decent sized wire & very good connections so as to minimise the power losses through the whole electrical system.


Glenn
Title: Re: Fuse Protection ESC ?
Post by: CliveJ on October 05, 2015, 09:15:55 am
Thanks everyone for your response/advice

I am sure there will be more questions as I move forward  :-)
Title: Re: Fuse Protection ESC ?
Post by: Martin (Admin) on October 05, 2015, 10:54:44 am
 
Must try these thing sometime.
( I wonder if 2 in parallel would give you 20A ??? )


If you are looking at 10A or less the mini auto reset breakers at maplins are fine
Jay
 
   http://www.maplin.co.uk/search?text=circuit%20breaker (http://www.maplin.co.uk/search?text=circuit%20breaker)
Title: Re: Fuse Protection ESC ?
Post by: jaymac on October 05, 2015, 12:55:44 pm

Must try these thing sometime.
( I wonder if 2 in parallel would give you 20A ??? )

would be good if they did just googled it and it does seem feasible but very debatable  got to go lay down in a dark room with a wet towel over  my face to recover :}   they work well on their own
Title: Re: Fuse Protection ESC ?
Post by: sparkey on October 05, 2015, 02:20:06 pm
 :-)) As a electrical engineer the simple answer to that is no,the reason being that these breakers have errors when made and no two are the same as regards trip characteristic's there for one would trip then the other,these light duty ones are designed for operations where there is a steady current not the surge you get with motors,OK with lights, smoke units,and other light applications,that is why all circuit breakers are rate on their trip characteristic's as well as current carrying capacity,light duty breakers will only hold a surge for milli seconds while one designed for motors or welders would hold a surge for up to 30 seconds,you get a similar effect with fuses in parallel  but for different reasons,fuses wear out at different rates caused by repeated heating and cooling so one would blow then the other,hope this is of some help....Ray. :-)) :-))