Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Lifeboats => Topic started by: craggle on December 31, 2015, 12:04:55 pm
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Well, I've finally done it. :}
After many years of watching peoples lifeboat builds I have taken the plunge and got myself a rather large, 1:12th Severn kit from Adrian at Speedline models.
He did a great job getting it to me before Christmas seeing as I only contacted him at the beginning of December and to say I'm impressed with the kit is an understatement. The parts are very nicely made, and look very solid. Fibreglass hull and cabin is cleanly moulded and the brass etchings are very nicely done.
Only thing I seem to be missing on the supplied checklist is the DVD with the images, and plans etc. on it. I've sent an email to Adrian so hopefully that will be sent onto me soon enough.
This won't be a quick build but I'll keep this thread up to date if people are interested in the build and I'm sure I'll be here asking lots of questions about batteries, motors, sound units, etc. :-)
Happy new year all, hope the building and sailing goes to plan for everyone.
Craig.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3136.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3136.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3135.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3135.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3134.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3134.jpg.html)
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My goodness me. That looks very complicated.
And I am worried about starting a smaller Rother class kit.
Best of luck, and a happy new year.
Jim.
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Got mind about 4 months ago, you are going to need plenty of space to build it, just about got the hull something like after a lot of head scratching.
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Looks very nice Craig!
I wanted the speedline Severn before I started my 1/25th one, however it was just too expensive.
Are you going to do a full build forum on here?
Regards,
Elliot
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Hi Elliot
So long as people are interested I'll keep this thread up to date with photos of progress.
Not going to be a fast build though, I fear it may take many months, probably many years but I'll keep the build updates going.
Craig.
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:-))
Keep up the thread Craig, it will be interesting to see how it goes, due to renovation work on the house I have had to stop on my build and pack it away.
:((
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Will do
I've spent the last few years re-building my house so this is a small reward to myself for getting it all done. :-)
Hope all goes well with your renovation work, can take a lot longer than planned though but hope you get back to the boat soon
Craig.
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Craig, you're going to enjoy that build - just remember what Phil Warren [surface matchbox wood fleet builder] said, "It's a hobby, build to your standard and at your speed, otherwise it becomes a chore". Wise words - most of us have at least ten 'projects' on the go and still start more!! That said, I enjoy the building side most. We really do want you to do a 'build by stages' log, it gives some of us ideas of how to do things we didn't think of, inspires others and even gives us a 'kick up the rear' to go out into the workshop and get on with a part of one of our 'projects'. Reminds me, I might even start a 'Build' page for my little 1/72nd Airfix Severn class lifeboat conversion to radio control using twin shafts.........it will be the 'Little and Large Show'!!
Seriously, as I've said elsewhere, 17-09 is in the middle of an epic Severn Class [Dover] lifeboat rebuild and both he and I are here to help and answer questions where we can; we'll definitely know someone with an answer if we don't have it. Now, just sit back and look at the kit, make a list of things to do and research, put it into orderly plan and make a gentle start - enjoy it to the full! Oh, and remember to get a local gymnasium New Year membership to build up those muscles!
Kim
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Like to see a build of the 1/72 Severn.
What size are the shafts and rudders?
Are you using the Deans electronics?
Ned
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Ned,
Now I can blame two people for what I am about to do, you and Craig!
I am about to start [my first!] a build page for the 1/72nd Severn - me and IT / computers do not always see eye to eye, so be warned dear readers..........
As to your questions the shafts and propellers are by Simon at PropShop and you will see, when I get to that point, I have cut the 1.95mm shafts and the outer casings [3.95mm] down - props are handed and four bladed. No, I am not using the Deans set-up, but a concoction of my own from Hobby King, brushed motors and a forward only [this might be changed] ESC, powered by a single cell LiPo 3.7v battery - I just hope it works!!. I hope this has wetted your appetite!
Kim
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Ned,
Your question and my reply has just made me a Full Mayhemer!! So have a drink on me and if we ever meet, remind me, and I'll refund the cost of the pint [or whatever]! Therefore, my build page will now have a significance of an 'anniversary'. Many thanks. :}
Kim
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Dear CC, What prey tell are you going to call your Build Log ?.
The Single cell Lipo ( are these the ones like I had from you ? ) did not have enough oomph to light my Kite with LEDs, maybe couple 2 Together.
See you Wednesday?.
Len.
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Len,
Yes same LiPo, but on my bench tests they are fine with the motors I'm using and I cannot even stop them with my fingers pinching the spur gear on the shaft. I'll bring it to Wednesday's MBA-D meeting. My boat build is up and running as 'Severn in the Workshop - a 1/72nd build and R/C conversion'. I've used them on my small LED and other demo boards and had no problem - bring them or a demo on Wednesday. I have plenty more - are they charged correctly?
Thanks for interest.
Kim
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Hi Craig
Nice to see you have finally got your Severn look forward to seeing the pictures mate.
Regards
Derek
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Hi Derek
I haven't started it just yet but planning various things and measuring lots of things carefully. :-)
Will update with photos soon as I start building.
Hopefully see you soon for the final SuperNemo build.
Craig.
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Enjoy building its a fantastic model to build I enjoyed building mine it took me some 14 months. Lots of help from people on this site far more experienced than I. I think I made a fantastic job of it if I dare say so. Only problem I had was with dummy bolt heads which Speedline could not supply. I outsourced cost me a fortune but looked great. I had a 4 wheel trolley for it. Think only problem I had was with the drive shaft UJ once I went over to flexi couplings and filed flats on shafts it did everything as it should. Once I have built and admired it, sailed it round the lake looking like the real thing the problem came to me like a lot of oldies face??? Getting in and out of the water without doing your back in because it's a big, bulky and very heavy. All those instructions you see with HSE manual handling go out of the window. Apart from my trolley I was lucky I had a large box trailer to take it round. I sold my Seven last year. 😂😂
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Well, First bit of progress made.
I was informed by another member of the forum to measure the steps in the hull moulding as they may not be in the same position as shown on the RNLI plans. After a few measurements I concluded the steps are indeed set back too far but the sloping side of the hull next to the steps also didn't look right to me. After more measuring and making templates from the docking plan and side profile drawing, I decided to trim a bit of fibreglass off both sides.
I measured from the back corner of the hull to where the top of the step in the hull should be and added a line on the deck. With a 45° template offered up to this it blends into the radius part very well and (I think) looks a lot more like the drawing and photos I have seen.
Anyway, Out with the sanding drum on the Dremmel and job done. I have now filled the hole and added glass mat and resin to the reverse side so just need to sand that down again. Next will be making blocks to move the steps forward a bit to match the drawing.
I was also made aware of the rudder size in the kit and they are indeed smaller than shown on the drawings so I'm currently working on a plan to make new ones of those. Watch this space.... :-))
Craig.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3181.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3181.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3182.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3182.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3183.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3183.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3184.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3184.jpg.html)
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And in case anyone is wondering the second line drawn on the deck is where the first step should be.
Craig.
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Craig,
The steps do need moving forward and from memory it is about 1 inch, I have been searching for my notes that I took with the exact measurements but cannot find them at the moment. When they are moved forward, everything else lines up. Look at the photo's on Kim's CD, I,m sure there are photos of the inside of the steps on it. The fairlead on the top edge also sits correctly on solid deck as well, and does not form a hazard on the steps. reshaping the curve is also required as mentioned. :-))
17-09
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Hi 17-09
Thanks for confirming I'm on the right path with the steps and the slope on the hull sides. I will check through the images again and double check my measurements on the plan as I made the steps about 16mm out of position measuring from the back corner of the deck.
Popped to the local model shop yesterday and got some brass rod and tube so I've been working on new rudders today, think i'm getting there but will keep my plan a secret until it works! Local model shop isn't far from the Shoreham lifeboat either so dropped in there for a few goodies from the shop.
Really need to make a boat stand as well, doesn't seem to stand up on it's own very well!
Craig.
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A tiny bit more progress and as I'm happy with it, I'll reveal what I've been up to..
As noted above the rudders supplied were a bit undersize so I decided to make some new ones. Yes, I could have simply machined new ones from plastic or acrylic sheet but thought I'd go bit of a different route.
First thing was to make a 3D CAD model of the rudder and get this onto paper at the correct size. Luckily the CAD system I use at work makes short work of this and I was able to extract the surface profile so I could cut it out of sheet. The top and bottom aerofoil shapes were cut from 2mm thick plasticard and the side surface was cut from 0.25mm sheet. Bit of superglue saw this curved around the top and bottom profiles to make a hollow and very weak, rudder. This was then filled with resin through a drilled hole and filled and sanded until I was happy with the shape.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3201.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3201.jpg.html)
Once filled sanded etc I painted it and sanded it wet with 2000 grit paper to make it silky smooth. You can see the size of the kit rudder against my drawing here.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3214.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3214.jpg.html)
Place this in a plastic pot and pour liquid RTV all around it. After a few days I cut the plastic pot off the outside and gave the rudder a wiggle and extracted it. Not the rudder post support I made from Lego blocks and stuck to the surface of the mould with more RTV.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4628_1.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4628_1.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_46301.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_46301.jpg.html)
Now you get the idea where I'm heading with this. Made a couple of brass rudder posts, 4mm diameter with a brass tab soldered to the side and inserted this into the mould using the Lego support system.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4633_1.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4633_1.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4634_1.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4634_1.jpg.html)
Now mix some casting resin and pour into the mould to get a perfect rudder. :)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4638_1.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4638_1.jpg.html)
Repeat for two perfect rudders. :-))
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_46411.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_46411.jpg.html)
That casting resin is amazing stuff. Goes in like water but sets perfectly in about 5 minutes so you have to be quick! Very impressed with it. Obviously I have the mould now so if any other Severn builders fancy a pair of rudders give me a shout and I'll see what I can sort out.
Craig.
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Craig,
That is superb. So encouraging to see others questioning, researching, trying new techniques and succeeding - a good final product. Carry on like this and you are going to have some model - and fun along the way too. Like the offer to others too!
Keep up the good work.
Kim
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Hi Craig
Nice rudders looks like good progress.
Derek
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Looking good Craig keep up the good work .
Regards Derek
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Quick question...
As I'm sure we are all aware the Severn has two, fairly big rudders sitting behind two fairly big props.
Will, what I call, a standard size servo be up to the job of moving both of them in the water under speed or should a beefier servo be used?
I have four, Futaba FP-S148 servo's that came with my radio gear which have never been used and thought I best check before fitting it and finding out it's not up to the job.
Cheers
Craig.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3246.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3246.jpg.html)
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Craig, I would go for the 'beefier' version - Futaba S3001 at £22.50. This has double the torque of what you have. Go to Servo City UK and put your servo reference in, then go down looking for around 6 - 9kg of torque rate [I think you currently have 3kg] and ball races and metal gears at the price you want to pay. You can always put one of the servos you have already on each rudder, joined from the Rx by a 'Y' lead, it might need a little playing around with to get set-up correct and make them absolutely parallel with each other. I'm sure a few others will join in and give other options, maybe 17-09 as he has Phil Locke's old 17-21, now completely stripped and refurbished, whatever that has it works very well [I've used it and seen it on many occasions], but I think it is two servos pushing / pulling through two carbon rods to each rudder - no bending in the joining of servo to rudder under pressure, which at the heavy speed of these 'beasts' could happen. Like your choice of Futaba though!
Kim
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Thanks Kim
A stronger servo does make sense. lost count of the number of servos I destroyed in RC cars when younger using them as steering servos. The rudders will get a hard time in the water and I think I'd like to control them both from one servo so I will look for a higher torque one with metal gears. Last thing you need in the middle of the lake is a failed rudder!
Bit more progress has been made, Rudder tubes have been marked out and drilled, Prop shafts have been marked but not yet drilled and tonight I've drilled the bow thruster tube holes. Bit nervous taking drills to the hull moulding but I measured a lot more than once and think it looks good now.
Made a stand as well. Yes I know, it's made of foam. It's a temporary stand as I have something grander in the pipeline but need a friend to get time on a CNC router to cut the parts out. It will happen, just not sure when yet.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4645.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4645.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4650.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4650.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4652.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4652.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4656.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4656.jpg.html)
Craig.
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You're doing a grand job, love to see a complete step by step build so keep it up.
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Hi Craig
That's looking good coming along :-))
Derek
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Decided to reduce the length of the boss on the propellers as they seemed a bit excessive so took them over to the workshop on Saturday and turned them down to the base of the prop blades.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3260.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3260.jpg.html)
Did this both sides and off course on both props.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3262.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3262.jpg.html)
I then extended the thread slightly on the prop shafts and fitted a KayLock nut which I thought looks more authentic than a big nylock nut.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3264.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3264.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3265.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3265.jpg.html)
Then decided to put the A-frames in the 4-jaw chuck and add a small taper to the front of the bush as the real things seems to have this feature.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3269.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3269.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3266.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3266.jpg.html)
Nice to use the lathe again, doesn't get used everyday but very useful when it's needed
Craig.
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Craig,
That's some serious lathe! Absolutely dwarfs my little chap [but it does for me]. Nice photos too - very helpful to see the 'other side' of someone's build. So nice to see a modeller wanting to 'get it right' - where it's most applicable [and sometimes not seen - under the water!]. Look forward to hopefully meeting you at Brighton Model World this weekend - we are stand 141 [LBES].
One last little point you might be able to help me with - you've cracked something I've wanted to do in my build presentation - how do you put those photo captions exactly where they are most helpful, with the correct photo. I've looked and obviously missed it. Thought I might start a thread of my 1/12th Speedline Trent Class build when I get back from Brighton and catch it up to date, over a number of weeks - might help someone else and also make me crack on a bit further with the build.
Kim
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Hi Kim
Lathe is a Myford I acquired a few years ago now for the very low price of £200. A friend took it in part payment for a job apparently, didn't really know much about it, it was all in bits and after a year stacked in his shed wanted rid of it. I stripped it down, cleaned everything, repainted it all and re-assembled it. Only bits missing were the drive belts which I would have changed anyway and it came with lots of accessories like the 4-jaw chuck and various drill chucks. £200 very well spent!
As for the pictures I use a web page called photobucket. If you click on one of my images above it should take you there.
You simply create an account, make an album called "Severn build" then upload the images to that album. You can then view the image in Photobucket and on the right side of the image is four boxes and the bottom one is labelled "IMG" If you click on the IMG box it says copied and then you come back to this site, right click in your message reply where you want the image and select paste.
A long string of funny looking text appears but when you submit the reply the text turns into a link showing the image.
Only downside to Photobucket is the odd advert that pops up but try to ignore that and it's a very useful site.
Plan to come to Brighton on Saturday I think so will come and seek out the lifeboats. :-))
Craig.
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Been working on the new step positions recently.
Used some dense pink foam, Think it's insulation material but glued some plasticard to the surface with superglue then cut them out to the right dimensions and epoxied them in place over the original steps. All will be skimmed with filler and smoothed off soon.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4660.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4660.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4659.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4659.jpg.html)
Craig.
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Nice big box of parts arrived from Hong Kong yesterday too.
Turnigy 5550 400Kv motors
Turnigy 120A water cooled speed controllers
Turnigy 5000Mah 4s batteries.
Hopefully that will get the boat moving sometime.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4661.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4661.jpg.html)
Craig.
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And finally...
Been working on the propshafts and A-frames. I have decided to do things a bit differently and keep the propshaft outer tubes inside the boat out of sight.
Normally I guess you would expose part of the outer shaft under the hull and glue it in place but seeing images of the real boat it seems they don't do the same so I am going to use a short length of close fitting brass tube glued into the hull and then glue the supplied outer shafts further up the shaft on the inside. There will then be a fibreglassed cover between the bottom end of the outer shaft and the bottom of the hull to seal it up again.
Basically it's the same as normal but the outer shaft will not be visible from the outside. Unfortunately this makes the propshaft inner shafts about 25mm too short so I have some 4mm diameter stainless and will simply cut a new thread on the end to make longer versions. I could equally reduce the length of the outer shafts but making new inner shafts is the easier option.
Hope that makes sense, if not, wait for the finalised images. :}
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4663.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4663.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4665.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4665.jpg.html)
Oh, Some of you may notice a filled hole under the shafts. The side view of the docking plan seems to differ from the side view of the GA drawings and if you use the docking plan dimensions the shafts look to be too much of an angle hence why I filled them and moved them up a bit to comply with the GA drawing.
Craig.
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Craig,
It was good to meet you last weekend at the Brighton Model World, now some of us can put a face to this great build. Always good to get a package of 'goodies' through the letterbox. You seem to be getting on apace with the build and passing on some useful tips already.
I'll send an email with the information requested last week.
Keep up the good work started here.
Kim
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Quick update
Got the propshaft ports all sorted where they come through the hull. Decided to sand and fill the brass tubes so they are all completely smooth and the shafts are now inside the boat but sealed off course with glass mat. I think they look pretty authentic and seem to run smoothly. Will find out one day if it causes any more problems I guess. Added oil tubes to the shafts as well. Not sure they are needed but can't do any harm I thought. The inner shafts are too long at the minute, they will be trimmed to length soon and threaded ready for the couplings.
Made a plywood support for the shaft ends inside the hull too which was all epoxied in place.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4679.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4679.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4682.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4682.jpg.html)
The red smudge inside is fibreglass resin from a car repair kit but I have since bought some clear resin and woven mat from Easy Composites Ltd and it's so much nicer to use! I got the slower curing resin too so I have a good 45 minutes or so to get it right before it starts to cure.
Attached the resin mouldings on the transom for the trim tabs to attach too. These need filing and the shape needs changing slightly in the process. Will mark out the exhaust ports soon.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4683.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4683.jpg.html)
Finally I've been working on the bulge that is forward of the bow thruster ports. I think I have the shape about right and decided to build it up in a number of layers of plasticard. This will next be skimmed with filler and sanded smooth then the bow thruster can be glued in place and everything blended into each other.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4680.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4680.jpg.html)
That will be about it for a while as I'm off to North Devon on holiday Monday for a week. Aim to check out the Ilfracombe and Appledore lifeboat while I'm there.
Craig.
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Last thing is to list some suppliers and the great service I've had so far.
Hobby King supplied the motors, batteries and speed controllers and this weekend I have had them all linked together and running. As my first experience of brushless motors I have to say I'm impressed. Very smooth, quiet and with great control. Look forward to seeing what they can do on the water. They were ordered from the international (Hong Kong) warehouse as only they had them in stock but they were delivered within a week and although I had to pay import duty they are still very good price.
I ordered some powerflex couplings from Model Boat Bits and they arrived a day later, Great service and very nice couplings.
Easy Composites Ltd supplied me some fibreglass mat and resin for a very reasonable price and in smaller quantities ideal for us modelers. That arrived a couple of days later too and well packed to protect the resin in there.
Last but not least I ordered a speed controller for the bow thruster from Mtroniks and that arrived a couple of days later. Haven't tried it out yet as I haven't decided what battery to use but sure it will be good.
Craig
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Right, Another update.
Not much done recently as I've been away for a week on holiday but I have now fitted the motors and got them spinning. Seems pretty smooth running seeing as I haven't yet applied any grease to the shaft bearings and it's out the water so think they will be okay when completed.
Also got the bow thruster in the hull and fibreglassed that in place allowing me to work on sculpturing the bulges in front of the bow thruster ports.
Joined the Lifeboat Enthusiasts society too and received a couple of very interesting magazines in the post.
Craig.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4679-1.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4679-1.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4680-1.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4680-1.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4682-1.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4682-1.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4683-1.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4683-1.jpg.html)
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Try to visit the odd lifeboat station when on holiday and always look to see if they have a Robbie bear with the station name on the jumper. Not all stations have them though so it's a nice surprise when you do find one. :-)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/image.jpeg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/image.jpeg.html)
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Welcome aboard the LBES Craig!
17-09
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Thanks Alan, good to be part of the crew. :-)
Craig.
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Made a start soldering some of the trim tab transom brackets tonight.
Was a bit worried to start with as the sheet looks like stainless steel but it seems to solder just fine so not sure what it is really?
Have to wonder why the square hole in the large plate isn't cut for me as the triangular boxes have to fit behind them and there is no holes in the pivot bracket. Out with the drill and file I guess.
Craig.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3429.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3429.jpg.html)
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Hi Craig
I asked Adrian at Speedline because I was worried about soldering stainless steel and he informed me it is nickel siver.
I think you will find that you are 2 little bits short for two of the actuator mounts. I had to cut them out of the edge of the etched sheet.
I managed to mill the square holes out
Les
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Bit more of an update.
Have now marked out the transom. Found that the shape of the hull is slightly wrong by measuring down from the deck to the middle of the rubber mouldings. I found the rubber mouldings are about 12mm too low so I decided to compromise and split the error and base my exhaust pipes, trim tab rams etc about this compromise centre line. Hopefully it will look about right when all the rubber strips, coloured stripes etc. are in place.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4684.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4684.jpg.html)
Spent the best part of today soldering the outer trim tab ram mounts. Complicated little assemblies to say the least! I had to cut the big hole in the plate for the angled pipe well to sit in. I did this by chain drilling and filing the shape. Was pretty quick to do in the end. Bending the brass rod was made easier by annealing it first then rolling it around a suitable size drill. I think they look okay and I added the extra little bracket that holds a push rod of some sort on the real boat.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4687.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4687.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4688.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4688.jpg.html)
And here they are taped in place on the hull.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4690.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4690.jpg.html)
Next up will be the centre trim tab ram mounts but these are made different to the outer ones in that the holes for the hoops are not pre-marked. Not sure why really, would be easier if they were I think.
Craig.
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Craig.......they might be complicated little assemblies in those outer trim tab ram mounts ...but you have excellent brass fabrication & soldering skills :-))....we saw a pair of similar construction in another thread here on MBM last week......I think you Guys must have been to the same school O0.....
Carry on & keep the images coming............. Derek
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Craig,
Everything seems to be going well with your build, and I am sure you are inspiring a few others to either build one or else get back to a project that has 'stalled' or is languishing in either a workshop, shed, backroom or loft! Keep up the good work and your excellent photos and the written explanations to keep us all interested.
Trust you are eating your Weetabix and going down the gym in early preparation for the 'Big Lift' into the pond or lake soon.
Kim
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Thanks Kim
I'll keep up the log as the build progresses. :-))
Keeping my eye on the prices of forklift trucks for the launching day!
Bit more has happened recently mainly on the transom fittings again. Trim tabs have been made and I've got the tubes for the hinges all ready to solder on but waiting some 1mm diameter stainless rods to arrive so I can line them all up before sticking them in place. The hull mounted hinges are all done as well.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4695.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4695.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4693.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4693.jpg.html)
I've also made the one pipe fitting that apparently was an engine breather when first built and is now a drain port for a deck hatch. (thanks 17-09) This was made from 1/4" tube cut at 45 degrees and soldered together again.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4696.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4696.jpg.html)
Haven't got a picture but I made some anchor plates with copper sheet and brass nuts soldered together for the motor mounts. The way I made the motors meant I had to get M3 washers and nuts into place with tweezers and then turn the Allen key to tighten the screws up. The anchor plate are so much easier to drop into place and just fit the screws. Hopefully the motors won't be coming out too often but at least it will be easy if needed.
Craig.
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Excellent fabrication skills Craig :-))
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Hi Craig
Looking good nice soldering on the parts.
See you next Thursday for some block fitting :-))
Derek
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Right then, Another quick update, Yay! I hear you all cry...... {-)
Been a bit quiet recently but have been working in the background on some very tricky exhaust pipes! Short story is the lids and the flange were supplied etched brass in the kit but the tube and collar around the tube I made myself from some turned down 22mm pipe (made 21mm) and the collar is cut from some brass 0.3mm sheet.
Lots of swearing, soldering, burnt fingers and more swearing resulted in pipes I'm happy with. (My girlfriend thought they were the toilets in the boat when she saw them and lifted the lid! {:-{ )
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4705.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4705.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4709.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4709.jpg.html)
You may think that the lids look a bit more silver than they should. Well, the main reason I persevered with the soldering and made the pipes entirely from metal was to try out my plan of nickel plating the finished items to replicate the stainless finish of the real things. I had the nickel plating kit left over from a Land Rover restoration I did many years ago so dug it all out the garage again, Cleaned it up, bought some new supplies and had a go again. I'm rather happy with the results and it seems to plate over the solder, copper, brass equally well.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4707.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4707.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4710.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4710.jpg.html)
And I thought it was about time I tackled stage 1 in the build manual and drill the Bilge keels and fit them on the bottom of the boat. These were drilled in my mill to keep the holes nice and square and 3.2mm brass rod was bonded into the holes using a carbon loaded epoxy we use at work. Stycast 2850 if anyone is interested, It's messy stuff being black but does dry very hard. These have been bonded into the hull with the suggested body filler around the base and will be reinforced on the inside over the next few build days.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4702.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4702.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4712.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4712.jpg.html)
Phoned up Paul today who is the very friendly Coxswain of the Newhaven boat today and arranged a visit for next week so I can photograph the real thing. Thanks to Kim for giving Paul the heads-up that I'd be calling and for giving me the phone number. :-)) Be great to see what I'm really building but fear I may look at it and think, "How am I ever going to complete this thing!"
Craig.
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Those exhausts are a work of art Craig :-))
I'm not so sure about the comfort when used as a toilet though {-)
Simon
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Hi Craig
Coming along well , looking nice mate :-))
Derek
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Well, Been a bit quiet recently but I haven't been sitting around watching the snooker......
Couple of weeks ago I took myself to Newhaven and knocked on the door of the station. Met a lovely chap called Paul who is the Coxswain of the boat there and he showed me around the boat then left me alone for a couple of hours to take photos. It was a great experience being able to look about the boat and it's really a magnificent machine. You can tell they are not built to a budget but built to last as every detail is perfect. Paul left the boat on shore power for me too so the lights were on below deck and all the instruments were powered up. I so wanted to start the engines and go out for a sail! :embarrassed:
Only small problem was they currently have 17-38 which is a relief boat. Their boat 17-21 is back at Poole with a few engine mount issues after the recent refit with MTU engines. Paul hopes it will be back and he said to come back again when they are back to normal.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/17-38.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/17-38.jpg.html)
As for the model I fancied a change from all the brass trim tab and hull work so turned my attention to the cabin. I have sanded the cabin base so it fits the hull moulding a bit better and built the stern boxes (as I call them) which was good fun using some very smelly Tensol 12 adhesive.
A Piece of Acrylic rod has been purchased and added to the top angled faces on the boxes and I have made some thin sheet triangles for the inside as they seem to be present on the real thing. Started adding the base of the crane too and will start working on the crane itself soon.
Makes a nice change to start thing about detail after all the hull work.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4724.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4724.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4728.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4728.jpg.html)
Craig.
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Well, I'm not one for following instructions in the correct order and I get easily distracted so two evenings work and I have a Hiab crane. :-)
Have to say I really enjoyed building it too. The etched parts are a perfect fit, bend nicely and make a very sturdy structure when soldered together. A few more burns on the fingers but think it's worth it.
I'll start making the rams and pivot pins soon.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4731.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4731.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4730.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4730.jpg.html)
Craig.
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Hi Craig,
You really are producing a superb model there, with great photos to accompany your build. I also like the way you are deviating from the normal standard build processes and materials, at the same time explaining your methods and reasons why and also naming your products so we can hopefully find and use them too. This is a very refreshing build insight being given to the rest of us - thanks.
Alan and I missed you today [I know you had a previous commitment in the modelling world], but thought of you as 17-21 is now back on station with the handrails, salvage pump cannister, telecomms tower, flying bridge window supports, door and hatch cover surrounds, aerial bases and steps all in a galvanised finish!! All in the name of saving money on future maintenance. Are you going to be the first modeller to build something different in its finished 'colours'? By the way, think I might need to come over and see you cast your spells on some of my brass fittings with that plating finish set-up!!
Dates for the trip out will be forthcoming this week.
Keep up the very good work. Kim :-))
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Hasn't that change the way she looks with all that galvanized finish <:( much better the way she was before.
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I think I know another man, 17-21, that feels the same way as you [17-09], I'm 60:40 in favour - I like the look around the flying bridge - especially as I think it is in the areas where the bolts are, and hence removal won't damage the paintwork. It also has that 'Shannon' look, from where I think the original idea came. Remember that Severn at the Excel Centre London Boat Show some years back when the logos and lettering were all given new positions and areas of prominence? That one never did materialise.
Some of the crew and ex-crew have given me messages for you 17-21, but not for these hallowed pages, I'll pass them on soon - personally. Kim
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I'm not sure it's a galvanised finish as various items you've shown are actually alloy components not mild steel.
I believe they are shot peened aluminium with a clear coat of anodising. But may be wrong! The same finish is being used on the Shannon's & Atlantic roll frames too.
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You are most likely correct as you seem to know the process, it's just the words that the crew and mechanics were using yesterday, saying the 'previous original rails and fittings were removed, shot blasted and then galvanised'. I will find out. Thanks.
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Hi Kim
Shame I couldn't make it Saturday but was playing with model steam engines all day, 1:3 scale traction's engines are really good fun if a little grubby!
Thanks for the photos and, Yes, I was wondering if I imagined the galvanized finished but when I went to photograph 17-38 at Newhaven but looking back at my photos that too has the grey finish. I was in Dover last week taking a few images from the dock side and got talking to a crew member who said he works with the Newhaven boat occasionally. I asked about the railings and fittings on their boat as they are still white and orange and he said Newhaven has been updated with the latest finish and too said it was galvanized. No reason to doubt him as the railings are clearly welded steel, Not sure about the flying bridge screen mounts though. Both sets of steps up to the flying bridge are galvanised as well now.
I will be building my model to the latest standard as it is now and when I build the model so yes, I should reproduce the galvanised finish I feel. I quite like it myself and adds another colour to a mostly orange object.
If you need plating doing or assistance please let me know, no problem at all helping out with that.
I will update the build thread soon but been away working in France for 4 weeks and then on holiday last week so not much progress made. Did manage to buy some brass tubes today though so the rams for the Hiab crane may be built soon.
Cheers
Craig.
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Most of the hand rails, radar arch and flying bridge items are aluminium to keep weight above deck level as low as possible (for self righting purposes.
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Oh right. I was sure they looked like steel when I visited the boat. I will have to take a magnet next time.
If they are alloy I wonder what the finish is. I shouldn't think there are many places that would have an anodizing tank big enough to take those bits.
Craig.
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I could be wrong but I know on tynes nearly everything is alloy (used to do refits on them)
I've got a set of tyne stanchions in my garden, which are cast alloy and the mast and MOB recovery A frames off our Thames class and they're all alloy tube.
I would suspect it's a clear anodised finish or a clear powder coat, but I see little benefit from clear powder coat over orange other than the (lack of) UV resistance of the orange pigment.
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Well, While I'm here lets do a quick update.
As I said, I've been away for a while so little progress has been made but I did fire up my laser cutter before I left and cut some triangles out of 3mm plywood. These were then epoxied around the four sides of the 8 posts that stick up inside the hull from the bilge keels. I could have used a strip of wood with holes to achieve the same thing but I really wanted to justify buying that laser cutter. :-)
In my spare time I have mixed up some white epoxy using epoxy pigment and epoxy resin from Easy Composites. Really easy to use, just mix up the resin in the correct ratio then add a few scoops of pigment and stir it all up. Makes a nice finish and adds to the strength of the hull no doubt. The motor mount is painted in the same resin but without the pigment as I thought it looked rather nice in wood finish.
Next will either be the rams for the Hiab crane or maybe I'll figure out some laser cut, plywood battery trays.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4737.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4737.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_4738.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_4738.jpg.html)
Craig.
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Another quick update
Made myself a battery tray over the weekend using my new laser cutter.
First thing was to use the CAD system to design a tray all based on 3mm plywood. It has space for two Li-Po batteries and a tunnel down the centre for cables to run and a space on the top between the batteries to place anything else I may need to fit there.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/3D.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/3D.jpg.html)
Once I was happy with that I laid all the parts out on A4 drawing template and saved them as a DXF file to import into Coreldraw for cutting.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/Profile.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/Profile.jpg.html)
Really good fun watching the laser do it's thing and it produces such nice, clean cut parts.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_37401.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_37401.jpg.html)
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3742.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3742.jpg.html)
Once all the parts were cut I gave them a gentle bead blast on the edges to remove the soot and then slotted the tray together. I'd designed it to slot together with tabs so once assembled it held itself together. I have run PVA glue along the joints now though and painted it with clear epoxy resin to seal it.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3751.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3751.jpg.html)
Best thing is the batteries fit.
(http://i227.photobucket.com/albums/dd126/craggle427/Severn%20Build/IMG_3752.jpg) (http://s227.photobucket.com/user/craggle427/media/Severn%20Build/IMG_3752.jpg.html)
This will be epoxied into place in the hull one evening this week.
Craig.
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Hi Craig..
We have AutoCad and Solidworks in the school I work in plus we have a Versalaser cutter but I'm not sure if they cut plywood with it due to the resins in the plywood clogging the filter systm that we have to use.
What CAD sytem did you use to produce the battery box etc and what laser cutter do you also use to cut it out.
Cheers
Declan
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Hi Declan
I'm quite fortunate that my daytime job is designing instruments for scientific and space research with UCL and we use software called Catia made by Dassault Systemes. It's not a particularly common or cheap CAD package but we get an academic license and quite a few of our partners use it too so it makes sense. I have used both AutoCad (2D) and solid works in the past, Solidworks I really liked and found it fairly easy to learn.
The laser cutter is a reasonably cheap one from china purchased on good ole ebay. It's a 40w Co2 laser so it can cut pretty much any material so long as it's not metal. If you do a search on ebay for "40w laser" lots pop up for around the £300 mark.
I use mine in the garage so just leave the doors open and vent the extractor pipe outside. It's not ideal, you do still smell burning timber but it's not that bad really. I have also added an air blast to the laser head so that helps keep a good flow of fresh air into the cabinet.
Sounds like you have everything you need sitting right there if you can convince them that plywood will be fine to cut.... %)
Craig.
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Craig, that battery box is just so POSH!! I can say no more - except that is is now my turn to go green with envy - Soooooo neat!
Keep up the very good work. Like I've just said to Mk1 on the Shannon build of mine - please seriously consider the Warwick Show in November. Having 'new blood' and models like yours will keep the public's interest and stop visitors saying 'much the same as last year!', especially as you are both now new members.
Kim
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Yes Craig. I do have a functioning workshop.. In an all girls convent Grammar School. :embarrassed:
I'm in IT so, all the CAD software is under my remit an because the laser cutter etc is computer controlled, it also kind of falls under my remit but I don't want to step on the technology technicians toes too much.
I did see the laser cutters on ebay and was wondering if they were any good.
Cheers for the feedback. Great work
Declan
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Well, here I am again.... :}
Been a long time since I posted on this thread and all my photos disappeared in that time as well. <:(
A lot has happened since the last post, moved house, got a garden to look after, house to look after etc so the big Severn has been patiently moored in the garage awaiting time. Today however, found some time so got the Y-boat out, cut out the vac forms and stuck together.
Wasn't too easy, had to cut the tubes as they seemed to be distorted then stick them back together but with some filler, lots of sanding they should look round again.
I'll try to keep the thread updated again and sort out the missing pictures earlier on in in the thread.
Craig.
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Welcome back Craig,
So good to hear you are OK and where your priorities have had to be. It's always good to start again on a small part of the 'project' - enjoy it and take it at your own speed. If it's anything like your battery box, then it will be superb!
Regards,
Kim [C.C.]
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Thanks Kim, hope you are keeping well too?
I thought the Y-Boat would be a good place to start as it is a kit in itself really, something I can finish and put on the shelf to remind me to get the rest done!
They seem to have changed the Y-boat number at Newhaven as well, I have the markings for Y-199 but in my latest photos, 2018 and the photos above it is Y-231 and in the 2020 Lifeboat enthusiasts handbook it is Y-207.
Guess they don't last forever so get swapped out as needed but will Have a take a trip down there and ask to see under the cover....
Craig.
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Hi Craig,
As Kim said, good to have you back, I was wondering where you had gone.
The Y boat is an interesting build, it's a long time since I made mine and it's still not sitting up on 17-09's flying bridge yet.
They do get changed for several reasons over time so you need to see which one is being used for the period you are building your boat. I don't think they change that much apart from updating equipment as new stuff becomes available, I remember Dover's being changed, I think it got damaged but luckily I had built mine by then.
If you need anything, I still have most of the research material. I believe Kim did a CD as well at one time.
With kind regards
Alan 17-09
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Craig,
Alan is right there, I do have photos of 'Y' class inflatables including one of the Newhaven ones which I photographed on one of many visits. If you want one just send me a PM with your address and I'll get one burnt and off to you, even under 'Lockdown', as I know the cost of P&P and have the materials and correct stamps and there is a Post box on the small green across the road......just ten seconds away!
Kim
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Thanks Alan and Kim, Glad to see you are both still here as well.
I did buy the CD from Kim a few years ago and have them all on the PC here. There is some very useful photos including the underside of one as it is being lifted back onto the boat.
I did manage to get to Newhaven and Paul showed me around the boat then left me with it to explore and photograph what I wanted. The Y-boat was off course covered up at the time but was a great opportunity to see the boat. Unfortunately 17-21 was in the Isle of Wight I think having its engine mountings addressed I seem to recall so there was a standby boat, 17-38 there but Paul did say, they are the same... :D
And what better way to get me back in the mood for building than opening the mail box this morning and seeing a magazine from the LBES sitting there.
Craig.
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Hi Craig
Nice to see you back on the Severn.
Take care mate ..
Regards
Derek
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Hi CraigIt was nice to get a notification saying there are new posts on your thread. I managed to get my Severn into sailing condition although I still haven't got around to doing some of the last details that should be done. In order to get to "finish" it I decided not to be a totally obsessive rivet counter as I know I don't have the patience for that. That said I am really pleased with how it turned out and I get complements from the general public when they see it. ( More knowledgeable might spot deficiencies)The Inflatable is one of the things I didn't get to.
Heres a link to me sailing at Blaenavon's Keepers Pond.https://youtu.be/RbeDKtYvw1E
Good to know you are under way againRegardsLes
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Hi Les, good to hear from you again.
Your Severn looks great on the water, You do seem to loose the sense of scale though once it's away from the shore, don't realise how big it really is! How do you find launching it and have you an idea how much it weighs?
Made some progress with the Y-boat. I was a bit disappointed in the kit to start with, thought it was very basic and not that well made but once you get into and start cutting bits out, it does come together very well. Deciding where to cut the vac-form pieces is the main hurdle as the instructions leave a lot to the imagination but things do become clear as you move on.
I wasn't too sure of my ability to make the plastic transom look like plywood though so I found some 0.4mm wood veneer in the stock cupboard so cut out 5 rectangles with the grain alternating, painted them in PVA glue and stuck them together. Placed in a plastic bag and squashed in the vice on my milling machine for a few days made sure they were compressed and flat. Very happy with the look of it and the edge grain looks just like miniature plywood.
I decided to have a go at 3D printing the outboard however as the vac forms needed a lot adding to get it to look like a 15 horse Mariner. Spent a few hours on the CAD system and run it through the printer today. Needs some filling, coat of high build primer and lots of sanding but pretty happy with it really. Even printed the tiller for it.
Craig.
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Craig,
Great idea that plywood..top marks
Regards 17-09 Alan.....
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Little bit more progress with the Y-boat...
Engine nearly finished and had to pop to work today so printed some new decals for the Y-boat I'm building rather than the older Y-199 markings. Also managed to make a tiny Mariner logo for the front of the engine. :D
Craig.
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Hi Craig,
Those decals look really nice, are they vinyl or waterslide? great job, the outboard is looking very neat, keep it up.
I guess you are aware that the boat number is on the underside as well!
Regards 17-09 Alan....
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Hi Alan
Fortunately I have a photo of the Newhaven boat being lifted back onto the Severn which shows the number and RNLI on the underside of the boat. An easy one to miss that. They will be the big decals on my sheet.
They are water slide decals printed onto clear decal paper with a laser printer so you don't have to mess around sealing them before showing them water. Fortunately someone at work has a nice colour Cannon laser printer that you can slow down for glossy photo paper so I treat the decal paper as that.
My other hobby is cars and I have a 1967 Land Rover and I wanted to recreate the under bonnet markings on that hence why I pursued the water-slide transfer thing and have the technique sorted now. I do the designs in my CAD system and print them off.
Photo below is the Land Rover engine oil filler cap and rocker cover breather with clear printed decals applied onto hammered finish paint. The Hammerite might look a bit cheesy but that was the original finish on the items from AC, air cleaner included in 1967.
Craig.
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Few years ago now when I was building the hull of the main boat I drew a stand in the CAD system and got some prices to get it CNC routed from a couple of local companies. I was surprised somewhat by the price, nearly half what the Severn kit cost me so I shelved the idea and cut one out of high density foam as a cheap alternative.
I got talking to a chap from Aberystwyth university not so long ago and he was telling me about the workshop facilities he has there and mentioned a CNC router that had a broken drive motor, I jokingly said if you get it repaired and want a test piece, I have just the thing....
Well, longer story short, he did and I ended up with my profiles cut from 12mm plywood. When I got them I was a bit disappointed with the edge finish, quite a few splinters and not the greatest quality plywood but after some sanding, filing the corners square and even more sanding it came out pretty good.
It all slots together and I only used PVA glue to hold it in place with a couple of coats of clear polyurethane floor varnish to seal it.
Only a small job but another small step in the right direction. :embarrassed:
Craig.
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Craig,
That is a really nice looking and strong frame. I should imagine you are well pleased. The way you have finished it off looks very neat [as usual]. It's strange the way that ideas, friends, colleagues and acquaintances can bring things to fruition - 'don't ask, don't get'. Thanks for sharing, I think a few folk will copy that superb design.
Cheers,
Kim :-))
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Cheers Kim
I do have the profiles on file so if anyone wanted them I could probably save them to a PDF, print them out and transfer them to timber for jig sawing. Printing them on a home A4 printer would be the problem, really need a bigger printer or print them in various sections and stick them together?
I'll look into it if anyone asks for the plans.
Craig.
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Another thing I have wanted to do for years is make the wheelhouse moulding look a bit less like a moulding and more like a boat! Using my plans blown up to 1/12th scale I marked on the widow positions, checked the sizes against the window frames in the kit and using a thin grinding wheel in a Dremel, roughed out the window apertures. A drum sander in the same Dremel then cleaned the edges up nicely.
Also took all the back out so I can build the rear door area and get the flying bridge floor into place.
Spent a couple of hours looking at the various Vac-formings and laser cut plastic sheets trying to identify what things are. Did anyone get a guide with their kit of what goes where like in the Speedline Tamar kit? Some bits are obvious but many are not....
All I got was a packing list and some very brief instructions that don't really detail anything.
Craig.
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Craig,
I'm sure 17-21 and 17-09 will come to your aid on all things Severn!! %) They've not much else to do in these 'lock-down' days.........................
Kim
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Attached is a PDF of my boat stand.
It is an A0 sized drawing but if press print then select poster, it should allow you to print it on A4 paper with a slight overlap, takes 18 sheets though. Just make sure you print at 100% and I would be tempted to cut them out and offer them up to the boat hull before cutting out the timber versions just to make sure you are happy with them.
If anyone wants the 3D print files of the Mariner outboard, I can post them too.
Craig.
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Have spent quite a few hours now trying to work out what all those laser cut, Vac form and resin shapes are, Not sure if it was normal in these kits but nothing of mine was labelled and no paper plan in the instructions either?
I have done pretty well though and identified 98% of the parts I would say. I have been taking them out the sheets and bagging them up in assemblies so I have all I need for that stage in that bag. All the mast box bits are now together for example as they were spread out over 3 different sheets of plastic.
The only bits I can't identify are in the 2 photos below. A few resin bits and a few more laser cut parts. If anyone has an idea what they are please let me know and I'll bag and tag them.
I seem to be missing one of the valves from the side of the wheelhouse, think I need three of them, only have two although I got 5 laser cut hand wheels? I got two sets of Y-boat crane hydraulic rams however.
Fortunately the etched brass fittings are all labelled so easier to identify.
Craig.
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Hi Craig,
Not too 'up' on the Severn bits, but:
- the four clear semi-circular pieces in the middle photo could be the control stick units for the throttles...when two are fixed together with a lever in between
- the four cones in the bottom photo could be the bases for the two main aerials that are either side of the fly bridge.....they would be on top of the photo etched bases that are triangular in shape, when bent....or.....
- they might be the bases for the 'Y' class, but I think they are on the vac formed sheets....
- the other four items on their sprues in the same photo could be the 'reduction' joints between the bottom and top od the same aerials that go into the cones mentioned above.
I stand to be corrected, and no doubt will be, but 17-21 and 17-09 will know best.
Do like the picture near the bike, the Cobra car [my favourite...with a Thrush exhaust system!!].....is it an AC?
Cheers,
Kim
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Thanks Kim, All good suggestions.
I think I have found the bases for the aerials in the vac forms.
I received a copy of the DVD from Les that was meant to be in my kit but was missing and there is a bunch of photos on there from the kit build in Model Boats magazine built by Terry Small. He has large tapered bases at the base of the main aerials which are vac forms but they don't match the aerials on the current Newhaven boat so, will build those myself.
The throttles was a good suggestion and looking at the photo again from the Model Boats mag build that is where they are used.
Looking at the photos again I think the 4 resin cones may be spotlights, one mounted on each MOB crane and two on the front of the wheelhouse.
I have found the Y-boat mounting pieces, as you say, vac forms again.
Thanks
Craig.
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The Cobra, yes, originally an AC car built in Thames Ditton that was shipped to America where they were fitted with 289 Ford engines and later on, the 427 V8 engine.
Under the picture on the wall is something covered up with a white sheet....
I always liked the Cobra too but realised I'd never get an original one so looked into the kit market and ended up with a Dax car. Built it all from the chassis up over three years and put a 5.8L (355CuIn) V8 in it through a five speed manual gearbox. No air bags, no driving aids, no ABS, no traction control, just 400bhp to the rear wheels. It is good fun. %%
Craig.
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Wow Craig :o ,
Am I pleased I mentioned that......what a superb looking vehicle and very much like the 'real' thing.......enough said. Would love to see and hear that one day.
Now I am actually envious, so will have to go and kneel by my bed and ask for forgiveness......or not! :((
Thanks for sharing that, I will put it in a Folder of its own and share with Arno [Swiftdoc], we both like our cars.
Cheers, :-))
Kim
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Hi Craig,
The four cone shapes are, I believe the spotlights as you say, one each for the recovery "A" frames and two for the wheelhouse roof, the lenses are in the photo. The aerial bases for the main Comrod aerials have indeed changed, they are now a simple disc with a spigot that holds the aerial. these are best turned from aluminium to give them strength, the aerials are long and need good support.
The throttles are also different from those in the kit, they were changed when the boats were re-engined.
A lot of the parts I remade in brass for added strength, resin has it's place but not for some structural parts.
Phil 17-21, has built one Severn and is now building another so will be in a better position to identify those parts.
Regards Alan 17-09
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Thanks for your help Alan
I have bagged the 4 cones and marked them as Spotlights.
I think that was the reason I didn't spot the half round shapes as being the throttle lever base. The photos I am mainly using for reference was a bunch I took at Newhaven of the relief boat, 17-38 while their 17-21 was away having work done on the engine mounts I believe. The boat I photographed has the later style throttles which as you say, were fitted when the engines were changed from the Caterpillar to the MTU motors.
Looking at the very useful virtual tour the RNLI did recently of the Severn at Poole, that one has the Cat engines still and the kit style throttles.
I have also bagged the other few parts as "miscellaneous" If I find a use for them along the way I can use them.
I was looking out for something round in the kit to make the salvage pump locker from on the rear deck but didn't find it and no vac form to make the recess at the front of the wheelhouse for the valve like thing next to the escape hatch.
Seems the kit was very developed in some areas but missed out other bits completely. All adds to the fun though, if I wanted a straight forward build I'd have bought the Airfix kit or a ready to run model. %%
Am I correct in thinking Speedline models are now closed and these kits are no longer available?
Craig.
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Hello Craig,
Yes that virtual tour is very useful.
I made the salvage pump box from a piece of plumbing pipe that was the correct diameter, it's scratch built which is really how most of the parts are on my Severn, I found it easier to go on the boat, photograph and measure a feature then return home and make it. I am so lucky to have the boat fifteen minutes away and a crew who are very helpful. I have so many photos which I can send you if required but I am having difficulty reducing the size to allow posting on MBM.
Let me know if you need anything and I will help if I can.
Regards Alan 17-09
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Thanks again Alan
I will try to contact Newhaven station again and see if I can arrange another visit to get some more photos of their boat. I'm wary that one day it will disappear for the Severn life extension program refit and come back a completely different looking vessel!
Unfortunately the boat isn't as close to me as you are to the Dover boat so I will be badgering you for dimensions and photographs no doubt in the future. :} I'll speak to you via a PM about the photos you have as they would be useful to me I'm sure.
I have stopped work on the Y-boat over the last few days as the weather was so nice outside it seemed a good opportunity to get the hull out and apply lots of filler then turn it all back into dust blending it all in. Bilge keels and bow thruster shapes are pretty much there now and the transom is filled and ready to accept the fittings after paint.
I also neatened up the cutout on the deck and reinforced the edges with some strip timber. Also managed to carry on with the deck step repositioning and with some more filling and sanding, I will be happy with the shape and location of those.
Modified the shape of the lumps that stand proud of the deck that the boxes sit over behind the main cabin. The boxes have holes under them with grills and on the real boat you can see under the boxes but the lumps on the deck would block the grills so cut them away too.
Craig.
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Bit more progress.
Been drilling and tapping the fibreglass transom for the M1 bolts to hold all the fittings in place, 150 of them so far and haven't done the trim tabs yet! I will add nuts to the inside on final assembly but off course this will all be coming apart again to paint the hull.
The Y-boat has been made orange too. Used VW Orange which is too dark for the whole boat but seemed a pretty close match to the rubber material on the Y-boat. Painting all the black bits now then onto the rope handles and carving some oars.
Craig.
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Well, been silent for a while but not sitting idle, I have finished the Y-boat and have to say it was a really fun little build. O0
I used a load of photos I took and a bunch of very useful photos of the Newhaven and Dover boat supplied by Kim (and Alan I believe) as reference for the build. Newhaven have a new boat now, Y-207 but I have modelled the previous boat, Y-231.
Newhaven seem to keep a few "optional extras" on board such as a fisherman's anchor and two plastic oars so they needed scratch building along with all the lifting gear. I figured I'd model it as the boat sits on the back of the Severn ready to be hooked up to the Hyab crane and lowered over the side, the block and tackle makes the final drop to the water.
The Speedline kit supplied fuel tank bag was way too small, not sure if I got a 1/16th scale version but it looked tiny in there so some hard insulation foam was carved into shape, dents added with course glass paper then painted, filled and sanded smooth.
The floor mat is made from rubber pond lining material and I purchased some new rope as the kit one looked the wrong colour to me. The lifting straps are packing ribbon available from ebay on 92 metre rolls for around £4. The tie down straps when the Y-boat finally meets the Severn will be the same ribbon.
I fired up my Chinese laser cutter again and made a clear stand and all the parts for the block and tackle. It cuts ABS sheet pretty well but does tend to melt it if you try anything too small. It marked the rubber pond liner mat and made a great smell but didn't get through it.
Anyway, a few photos and the next post will be the finished item.
Craig.
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And the finished boat...
I've just ordered a clear display case from EMA model supplies to keep it in as I don't want it getting dusty and broken before I have finished the Severn where it will finally rest. Needed to replenish my Plasticweld supplies too, surprising how much you get through!
Craig.
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Very nice Craig, brings back memories!
Alan....
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Thanks Alan
Just got to carry on with the Severn itself now....
Craig.
Took a few more images under more natural light.
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Lovely little boat, seems a shame not to have it RC though....... :-)
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Craig,
What a lovely set of photos that really do show a superb build quality and some good research by yourself. It has a plethora of detail that I have not seen on any other 'Y' class build - unique without a doubt :-)) . Shows what can be done.
Keep up the work and enjoyment. So pleased that you have shared some of your wonderful ideas with other builders.
Hopefully we'll soon be able to meet.........but I'm not getting to expectant!!
Regards,
Kim
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Thanks all. Y-Boat is safely placed in a clear display case to keep the dust and the cat away from it. :-))
Continuing the build of the bigger boat I thought I'd start somewhere simple and mark out the panels on the side of the wheel house and get the vac-form boxes fitted behind them. Simple enough right....
Who'd have thought the Severn's could vary so much in detail. Below is a picture of the same rear right panel on the wheelhouse, one from Newhaven boat (17-21) and one from the relief boat, 17-38. Note the completely different positions of all the bolt holes from one to the other and on the Newhaven boat the panels appear to be recessed slightly into the wheelhouse moulding, not sitting on the surface like they do on. 17-38 (and 17-09 come to that) The etched nickel silver kit parts are modelled on the 17-38 version, not the Newhaven version.
I have since found out that the Severn's were built by two different builders, could that explain the differences? I pity the guys doing the Severn life extension program in Poole as I suspect they will also encounter the differences on every boat!
When I visited the Newhaven boat a few years back and they had the relief boat, 17-38, Paul, the Coxswain at the time said "Doesn't matter, they are all the same!"....
Question now is do I re-make all my side panels to the Newhaven specifications or try to forget that I ever noticed the difference and hope no one else will notice as well...? As much as I like scratch building I didn't pay a load of cash for the kit only to use a few bits of it.
Off course I could always change the number of the boat and build 17-38....
Craig.
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Hi Craig,
First an apology, I found your reply to my resin bolt purchases in my spam folder, don't usually look in there. You now know where to get these if needed, I am in there quite often as they, Historex, are on my doorstep, I can pop in for you if you need anything.
The side panels. Yes I did know that 17-21's were recessed and flush with the main cabin and have a lip around some larger apertures. I should have mentioned it to you before but it does mean that recessing the panels will involve a lot of modification work to the cabin structure, the recesses also have a radius moulded in as well so more remedial work there. Luckily, 17-09 have these panels fitted over the wheelhouse so it's just a case of bolting them to the main section. I am not sure how many Severns had the recess panels.
The other major change is that all the handrails/bolt on fittings are now anodised or the equivalent of, in a grey finish, easier to do as it looks like undercoat but does not look so attractive as in the orange finish....I guess that is only in my opinion.
Kind regards Alan 17-09
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Thanks Alan
No problem on the bolts. I decided to place an online order for some of the resin bolts from Historex to see what they look like and order placed one day, delivered the next, very good service and the bolts are lovely so will order more as the need arises. Thanks for the offer to drop in though, appreciate that and will let you know if I think of anything.
The question of the side panels arose as I was looking at bending some brass rod and soldering it around those large apertures. This then turned into noticing the bolt spacing differences then on the closer images I have, noticing the recessed panels.
I have been trying to think of a way to make the recess in the wheel house and can only come up with cutting the entire side panel shape out, sanding the edges, making a 0.5mm thick plastic mould, clamping it back in place then laying up glass mat on the inside finally removing the 0.5mm mould after curing.
I could ignore it and build the kit as intended but trouble is I'd notice it every time I look at it now.... {-) Going to have a play on the laser cutter later at making a new side panel with the correct bolt holes and see how that goes first. 0.5mm ABS sheet might do the job, not as strong as the nickel versions though.
I will be making my model with the grey railings, spray shield frame, hand rails and fittings. My other half said she prefers the orange / white versions too but I chose to do my model at a certain time, post MTU engine conversion so should do them grey really.
Craig.
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The severns were made in a couple of yards and were fitted out at differnet yards too, I am an electronic tech at Poole and although they have the same kit, junction boxes, connection boxes and the actual equipment are all mounted and wired different on the boats. Part of the SLEP program is to make them all the same, as close as possible to make them easier to maintain. The grey finish on the old boats is bare Aluminium, initially the boats had all metal work blasted aft of the windscreen at refit, the last two severns we have done the MTU upgrade to we even blasted the fan pods (where the crane mounts) and then had the out side faces wrapped in orange! Any questions about the boats give us a shout, we are used to the variation in Poole!
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Thanks again, Sounds like the Poole team have a real challenge making the Severn's all the same, love to see some photos of what an empty, completely stripped down Severn looks like.
Well, think I made my mind up last night that I set out to build the Newhaven boat and do it to the best of my ability so watch this space. Going to either cut up the fibreglass wheelhouse and see what I can do make the recesses in the side or draw up a completely new wheelhouse and cut it out from 2mm ABS sheet.
I've just spoken to my local laser cutter about re-cutting the side plates in nickel silver or copper 0.022" sheet.
Craig.
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New panels to the correct Newhaven specifications are drawn in the CAD system and seem to fit the cabin, good start...
Craig.
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Just wonderful Craig........a real inspiration and another feather in the cap for the 'scratch builders' in the modelling world. However, you will know me well enough, that I don't care how you get to the end model, just so long as the process is enjoyed and you are satisfied with the end product. But this will make others think of another way to solve this and similar problems. I knew you would not let the 'small problem' beat you and that Newhaven [17-21] it will be!
Kindest regards,
Kim
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First stage of "Lets build Newhaven's boat even though it is different to all the rest" has started... :police:
My local laser cutter has done a fantastic job of cutting new plates out of 0.5mm stainless steel. I was a bit dubious of using stainless as I may want to solder to them but looking about it seems you can soft solder stainless if you have the right flux so some on order now to see how it goes.
The smallest slots on these plates are 0.5mm but the laser did a very neat job cutting them out, no burning or melting of the material and they stayed very flat as well. Cost £60 in the end working from my supplied DXF drawings, not too bad I thought.
I took the opportunity to add the half moon shape drain holes to the lockers, the round drain holes to the smaller lockers and the hinge holes to the lift up flaps over the round, ball like things in the side of the cabin whatever they are? You will notice some of the lift up flaps have 3 bolt holes, some have 4, that is intentional and is how the Newhaven boat is.
I have found one more boat at least with the recessed panels and it is the one the RNLI used for the virtual tour, RNLB Osier 17-34. It has the recessed panels but with the panels and bolt spacing of the other boats, not the Newhaven one just to confuse matters further.... {:-{
https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=ge2qSek3H7X&hr=1&hl=1 (https://my.matterport.com/show/?m=ge2qSek3H7X&hr=1&hl=1)
Craig.
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Craig,
They look just the very best job going! O0 Worth every penny. Looking forward to seeing them when they get fitted...... they will be so much stronger than the 'acetate ones' and just as good as the brass ones. They are at least accurate to your needs. Congrats.
Kim
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Hi Craig, Nice to see you are under way again and making an A Star job of it too.
This is my first visit here for quite a long time. I couldn't wait to get the Severn sailing so I didn't finish some of the bits and pieces. I have recently been tackling some of the details I omitted, hence my visit here.
The Severn is a lump to manage on your own for launching. I quickly realised that it would be easy to cause damage just lifting and carrying it.I made a cradle for the hull with full length side rails to protect it. I am able to lift the hull by these side rails and I'm not rubbing against the boat causing damage.
The boat is too tall to fit into my Kia Sorento assembled so the wheelhouse has to be transported separately. I made a tray that the wheelhouse slots onto. This ensures that nothing slides into it during transport.
When it's in the garage the boat sits on the cradle assembled . I don't have a dedicated storage position for the boat so I need to move it around so to aid this I made a wheeled carrier that the whole lot sits on and this enables me to easily move it around.
The wheeled carrier is based on an Aldi furniture moving dolly and stays home when I go sailing.Finally to further protect it from damage I added two detachable sides that clip onto the carrier side rails and a lid.
It sounds a lot but after spending a couple of years making it and then realising how easy it is to accidentally damage it it's worth the trouble.