Model Boat Mayhem

The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: Hande on January 27, 2016, 03:57:09 pm

Title: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 27, 2016, 03:57:09 pm
This is the header post of my build.


Based on Billing Boats BB528 (Smit Nederlands), I have started a modified vessel - sister ship of Smit Nederland - ex-Smit Finland, ex-Finland, now UREKA XIV (St Vincent and Grenadines, Malabo, Morocco), IMO 7800473.


I have started by following the instructions of Billing Boats. Turns out there are different versions of the instructions and the part list. So I have hardly begun, when I have had to interpret, and adopt. That's a lot of fun, however.


I have assembled the Becker rudders out of 29 parts each. I am practicing air brush painting with them (Model Color brass).
The props nozzles are installed into the hull with glue (I am really hoping I chose the correct glue!).
The rudder supports (assembled out of 7 parts each) are installed to the prop nozzles (again, did I choose the correct glue?).
The prop shaft pipe supports are installed into the hull in the right positions (I am most surprised about being able to get them right in one shot!).
The anchor chain pipes are tentatively in position (wondering, where I should cut them...).
I have cut and filed the main deck to fit the hull. Gluing ABS to the plywood of the main deck is my main nightmare right now! I'm feeling, if I mess up with that joint, the whole project in in jeopardy. Today, I found a PU glue that says it's especially good for my purpose.


So, this the status, today.


I have conducted research on glues, paints and other. It seems that in almost every step, I have finally ended up with a sub-optimal solution. I suddenly realise it's good to make notes - why not in this forum, to be sure - so as not to repeate mistakes, or at least avoid some of the extra work that I have already spent, in my next project... Heureka! In following posts, you will find my notes. I am eager to see some feedback!


Ok - next I will study how to post some pictures, here. Hold on a minute...











Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 27, 2016, 06:03:41 pm
NOTE-Rudders.


This particular version comes with a 29-part solution for each rudder. Being as laborious as it is, there is good reason to deliver them in one piece.


Remarks:
- the pieces are acrylic. I used CA to the best of my ability, but still several seams had to be glued again after them breaking. Now, I'm afraid they will break some time later.
- I managed to fit everything so as to allow the rudder to work properly - with some sweat, to be sure.
- To make the Becker-function work, a small brass thread had to be fitted into the tiny upmost bit, which required drilling with high precision. turned out that my dremel is so fast that the speed of the drill _melted_ the plastic! I spent just too much time drilling the on the other rudder and the whole thing was almost lost. The other one went ok. With pathcing and adjusting the rudder seems to work, but it is not pretty. After the paint work and some bending of the thread, the functionality was retained and it doesn't look too bad. The melted portion being hidden under the hull, I decided that I will live with it. May be, allowing time, even forget..?




Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 27, 2016, 06:33:54 pm
NOTE-Bottom of the hull inside


The instructions say a strip has to be glued in the bottom. Then a sole plate is to be attached.
Since I have no idea about the best method of attaching the sole plate, I leave is loose as long as I can. I don't have the plan ready for the electricals, so I don't know, what kind of room I'm going to need for the assembly of the engine room.


Note my clever three-legged spider that presses the strip down for glueing. There is a block of lead to provide the pressure.
Here, I used Loctite's hybrid glue, and after it having cured, sanitary silicone to keep inevitable water from getting to the strip.


Remarks (or questions that I ask myself, rather):
- Should I have made the bottom strip waterproof before glueing it into the hull?
- Is silicone good in this case?
- Is the hybrid glue the right choice? (this question is because I used that glue in an other place with unsatisfactory results - see a later post)
- How SHOULD the sole plate be attached? Simply glue (I'm thinking waterproof Gorilla wood glue)?
- Why does Billing Boats not suggest provisions to support the main deck?





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Brian60 on January 27, 2016, 07:05:22 pm
The Beckers look nice, but I think I would have used the correct acrylic bonding agent rather than superglue.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 27, 2016, 07:36:19 pm
Thanks Brian60.
The thing is - after days of research, I concluded that cyanoacrylate IS the correct one. Sigh...

Now that I searched "acrylic bonding agent" I came to the right place. May be this was a terminology issue? I was just looking for "glue" and "acrylic". Billing didn't use your term in the instructions...

I will append the information into my note.
And everytime a rudder snaps, I will use the correct stuff. I wonder if I'm going to do that 52 times.


btw.
I have learned that not all chemicals are equally available in different countries.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 28, 2016, 04:57:08 pm
NOTE-Aligning the driving gear


I'm sure Billing Boats have deliberated on the different materials, but this particular choice caused me headache.
The propeller nozzels are glued with Bostik Grab Adhesive. If I had found the Polyurethan glue at that time, I would have used it.
At any rate, Bostik seems to stick very well.


The rudder support is made of 7 parts each. I learned a lot by assembling, attaching them to the prop nozzles and finishing them with putty. A lot of pain, too.


I was really afraid to install the prop shaft tube supports (I wonder what the official term is...). If I would miss the alignment, I would have had to make new holes and all the rest of the repair work. The hole assy would move after the supports were installed and I thought about it for two days, how to foresee that movement and have the whole assy land in the correct position. I found no scientific method so I did it by trusting my eye and hand. - It went well, thank you very much...


Now everything is nicely aligned. THe prop shaft requires tiny adjustment sideways, but I can do it while achoring the shaft tubes on the inside.


Couldn't be happier about this minor success!


Any opinions about the painting of the rudders? Brass color looks really nice, but in every model that I have seen, the rudders are painted the same color as the hull (antifouling red). I know that it's the reality, too. One doesn't want sea creatures attach themselves on the rudders. So am I vain in the wrong way, if I go with brass and neglect the reality of marine equipment maintenance?



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Brian60 on January 28, 2016, 06:11:54 pm
How you paint it is entirely up to you. To be a true replica of the ship then it should be antifouling red. But if you want to interpret it as brass then do so. What I would say is that in real life the rudders would be made of steel, only the propellors would be made of bronze not brass, although I'm sure many ships now have even propellors made of steel for cheapness.

I'll just touch back on the acrylic. using superglue what actually happens is the two sides of the rudder stay as two sides with a layer of glue holding them together in the centre - a bit like a sandwich with two slices of bread and a slice of ham in the middle.

Acrylic bonding agent or weld as it is also known actually melts a micro layer of each side of the rudder, as the weld/bond agent evaporates (it only takes a few seconds) the two micro layers fuse together forming just one piece of acrylic not two. I hope this explains the advantage to you.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 28, 2016, 07:11:24 pm
Of course! Steel - not bronze. Even less brass - how stupid of me! I _was_ thinking of bronze (I confused brass for bronze. Sorry about my poor English...).
So painting the rudders in _brass_ makes even less sense. No matter how pretty.

Let's see how they will turn out. I'll sleep on it.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 31, 2016, 09:16:51 am
NOTE-Twin propeller spin direction


I switched the propellers across (in my picture they are wrong, I figure). I have understood that they should spin inwards (when forward), obviously countering their rotating directions. The kit came with a right spin and a left spin propeller.


What is the contemporary wisdom about this matter - anyone?



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Brian60 on January 31, 2016, 09:49:14 am
On a standard tug hull viewed from the rear, the left would turn clockwise and the right would turn anticlockwise. This tends to suck/make  the aft end squat down in the water and so enhances pulling power.

On an open aft hull, such as an anchor handling tug (my avatar or the link in my signature for posh venture) they turn the opposites, left turns anticlockwise, right turns clockwise. This doesn't make the aft squat so much. If the rear end squats too far on these the workdeck floods with water even more than it does under normal conditions, such that the ship could become un-manouverable.

Of course real life doesn't always equate to models, so unless you are going to enter tug towing contests, then it really doesn't matter as long as they turn opposite to each other, ie not two left props or two right props.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 31, 2016, 12:59:58 pm
I'm sure, the direction of the spins wouldn't matter in my model.
On the other hand, I like to think of it as a miniature of a real thing.
I leave the propellers according to your first configuration (left clockwise, right anticlockwise).
Thank you!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: derekwarner on January 31, 2016, 01:23:49 pm
Hande......one point you may wish to review is the outside diameter and profile of the propeller blades compared to the inner diameter of the nozzle

The design concept here of improved thrust is relative to the velocity of water through the mouth of the nozzle and the redirected turbulence that is created by the close diametrical clearance between the propeller & the nozzle

You will also find that propeller blade geometry is vastly different when used with nozzles.......in that the tip of each blade is flattened out to blend in with the profile of the nozzle ID or bore

To call a spade a spade ...the propeller's you show here [image 4633] with the nozzles you depict would have near ZERO thrust benefit over the propeller's alone >>:-(

Apart from that, your build and detail as shown to date is of first class construction :-))

Keep us posted with many more images ......Derek
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Brian60 on January 31, 2016, 03:44:29 pm
While what Derek says is true for hydro dyamics and waterflow through the nozzles, it is not always followed in real life.  The first photo here shows simply what Derek means, the tips of the blads are flattened so as to follow the nozzles closely so enhancing thrust.

The second one shows also that a lot ships 'followed fashion' in that they put Kort nozzles on but were quite happy with the thrust of ordinary propellors inside of them..
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 01, 2016, 11:26:56 am
It would be interesting to see a picture of Smit Nederland's or sister ship's propellors.
I would like to bet that Billing boats had no concern about thrust efficiency when selecting the propellers for the kit.
The ones that came with the kit are 3-blade and generally are just regular propellers.


I suppose changing the propellers at a later stage is merely a question of buying them. No technical obstacles?

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: xm607 on February 01, 2016, 12:29:07 pm
Looking at the photo of the props I did not realise how poxy the Billing ones are, might change for some modified plastic four blades.
Steve.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Brian60 on February 01, 2016, 12:44:41 pm
Looking at the photo of the props I did not realise how poxy the Billing ones are, might change for some modified plastic four blades.
Steve.

I just looked at the last image. I hadn't noticed just how poorly they fitted the nozzles. They are far from correct. Even using standard 174 pattern props, the tips should just be missing the inside of the nozzle. The pair above look to be 146 pattern used on large ships up to around 1960 then superceded by better style. You could use those props but then take off the nozzles. I would put them to one side for use on something else and buy a larger pair.

I'll see if I can turn up a photo of the props fitted to the Smit.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ALIMURIMETA on February 01, 2016, 03:12:52 pm

HELLO Hande, I also built from scratch the smit nederland. Here's how I solved the problem of the rudders and backer of kort rings.


I drew with autocad the pieces that make up the helm baker. In practice I did sliced horizontally the helm in 10 layers. I made 5 layers with a profile with the hole for the hinge and 5 layers with a profile without hole for the hinge. Then I glued the layers one on 'more to get the shape of the rudder. The parts were laser cut from a sheet of plexglas 5 mm thick. Always plexigals I made the blanket perforated laser, replacing the wood as it is more 'easy to finish and waterproofed.


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-O72tNGwFiX0/VVxRjAhCUTI/AAAAAAAACSY/z3NaOvoWr34/s800-Ic42/DSCN7106.JPG)


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3dy89wwqx5s/VVxRkIBz3QI/AAAAAAAACSc/cwJr2ThalXU/s800-Ic42/DSCN7107.JPG)


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-dWTH78hsSII/VVxRkk2Vm9I/AAAAAAAACSk/rwtfIEMEVwk/s800-Ic42/DSCN7108.JPG)


Some photos of the details of the rudder baker. I've made using a piece of a brass zipper and brass rods from advanced kit rotterdam


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LwlsEu54gvw/VVxSIgnDhNI/AAAAAAAACXo/PdG1pNQ5IlE/s800-Ic42/DSCN7159.JPG)


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4hXT1GOOT9Q/VVxSJWwqYyI/AAAAAAAACgo/qoPRxjPJ4Ac/s640-Ic42/DSCN7160.JPG)


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-daXyr7K66wY/VVxSKXoliuI/AAAAAAAACX0/kqq4CMipqmU/s800-Ic42/DSCN7162.JPG)


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FswhmPDCxBM/VVxSMl9mpBI/AAAAAAAACYM/AM4hi-nD3B0/s800-Ic42/DSCN7163.JPG)


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-z2aOCL4XsGU/VVxSclx3XYI/AAAAAAAACbA/llJnk0Ui6-E/s800-Ic42/DSCN7186.JPG)


kort rings are used to increase the power of thrust of the propellers. I made them realize plastic by an micro mechanics. I realized the grooves with the milling cutter for the base of the rudder and the lock ring fixing to the hull. The first I realized by a square-aluminum. The second by a length of beech suitably trimmed.
Here are the pictures of what indeed said.


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-4ROxZcL6qQQ/VVxSdIAcDqI/AAAAAAAACbE/PxcY0fhEvbc/s800-Ic42/DSCN7187.JPG)


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-koa3JlCfHiM/VVxRmnFR8sI/AAAAAAAACS0/trDnJlfGbOA/s800-Ic42/DSCN7110.JPG)


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-auK1fFV-QFA/VVxSRMvwKDI/AAAAAAAACZA/9lel5moPA40/s800-Ic42/DSCN7169.JPG)




Greetings
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 01, 2016, 06:07:20 pm
Che imponente, Francesco!


Nice facilities for drilling and even laser-cutting.
So far, I am using the parts provided in the kit. The rudders are also from the Billing Boats kit.


Let's see, if I get encouraged to start a scratch build. I seem to lack proper facilities to attempt that.


Regards to Salerno!


btw. Anybody from around Genova here that wouldn't mind a visit from a fellow modelist? Just to quickly see your model. (Parlo italiano un po.)

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 01, 2016, 06:18:54 pm

Brian


The second propeller seems to sit _outside_ the nozzle! Or is it an optical illusion?


Or, the nozzle seems to be part of the _rudder_ rather than means to increase the power of the thrust.
Seems that it's the nozzle-rudder assy that turns. The rudder is fixed to the nozzle? Better maneuverability?


This brings me to the position of the propeller inside the nozzle. - I positioned the tip of the propeller hub just at the level of the nozzle's edge (vertical) level. It seemed a sensible thing to do. Should have researched more?





While what Derek says is true for hydro dyamics and waterflow through the nozzles, it is not always followed in real life.  The first photo here shows simply what Derek means, the tips of the blads are flattened so as to follow the nozzles closely so enhancing thrust.

The second one shows also that a lot ships 'followed fashion' in that they put Kort nozzles on but were quite happy with the thrust of ordinary propellors inside of them..
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 04, 2016, 11:40:07 pm
 Everything plywood in this kit seems to be curved.
 After recovery from my hospitalisation I have worked on these curved parts.
 
 The plywood of the sub-deck started falling apart after another soaking in vinegar-water and extensive heating with a hot air gun. I may have to make a new one after all.
 
 The parts of the frame of the sub-deck were also curved. They are 5 mm thick so I don't plan to try to straighten them, but rather sand them so that the frame as a whole will be straight horizontally. It goes below, so some vertical skew is acceptable. I worry about the fit between the main deck and the sub-deck, now.
 
 I filled the flaws in the ABS hull with a wall paint and sanded the hull. It's getting ready for painting. Only I don't know, if I should paint the hull after I have installed the main deck, or before. Opinions anybody?
 
 While sanding the hull, one of the Kort nozzles snapped off the keel. WRONG GLUE (again). Nothing too dangerous - I glued both nozzles again with PU.
 
 - It's just... well... if model building is a series of ups and downs... this is a minor down. Sigh..!
 
 And I wanted to make everything so perfect. But now I'm already compromising with  quality. But when the parts are not high quality, I can only compromise or make new parts. I have no scratch building experience, so my new parts are not necessarily going to be better quality, either.
 
 Being a little more philosophical - What I like about this hobby, is that I can slow down or speed up as I wish. When in doubt, I sit back, study Mayhem discussions and reflect on my options. Sometimes I sleep two-three nights, before I dare continue.
 
 Besides, it's the building that's the fun part! Fortunately, I don't have to start worrying about finishing and the fun ending for a long long time ;-)

(re-paginated - admin )
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 04, 2016, 11:50:56 pm


I'm sure Billing Boats have deliberated on the different materials, but this particular choice caused me headache.
The propeller nozzels are glued with Bostik Grab Adhesive. If I had found the Polyurethan glue at that time, I would have used it.
At any rate, Bostik seems to stick very well.



Ha ha! NO GOOD. Bostik Grab Adhesive does not stick to ABS. In case you are considering...



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 08, 2016, 04:18:00 pm
After frustration with the screwed-up sub-deck (standard Billings quality, I understand) I needed a feeling of success - no matter how minor.


Here's the frame, at least. I will cut the sub-deck on a fresh sheet of plywood. Wish me luck, please!



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 08, 2016, 04:23:36 pm
Is there a competition for the most exotic (as in weird) glueing arrangement of the deck onto the hull?  ;)
The key is the usage of blocks of lead (at the ends of the hull, covered in cloth) to tie the whole arrangement together.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 10, 2016, 01:57:03 pm
Sub-deck onto the main deck.


I came up with this idea after some pondering:


The supporting frame of the sub-deck is left outside the sub-deck's edge enough to fit in the triangular spaces that I left under the main deck, while having installed the cross-hull supporting rod partly visible. As you can see, the sub-deck will be well secured forward, and I will need securing fasteners only in the aft-end.


I feel good about this solution  :-)



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 11, 2016, 06:21:34 pm
Re-enforcement below the sub-deck I felt necessary.
Provision for wireing below the deck - although not sure, what I would need to wire there. One never knows...
I thought about the wireing only after I had already glued the re-enforcement at the edge of the superstructure hole in front.





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 11, 2016, 06:26:05 pm

Hawsepipes of the anchor chains.

NOTHING is obvious to me.
It took many nights to sleep, before I was brave enough to install the anchor chain hawse pipes.
Sawing along the hole in the hull was a source of anxiety, but I think I made it  :}



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 11, 2016, 08:41:41 pm
Under the hood of anchor chain hawsepipes.


theory - and practice:
before - and after the mess.


I had to apply the adhesive with a long stick - not my proudest hour. Fortunately, the spectators won't see, what you now see  %)

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 11, 2016, 08:59:00 pm
Decided to follow Capt Podge's suit and make the superstructure separately removable - if only the kit allows. I see no reason, why not.
I have glued the strips under the edges of the opening to support the attachment of a coaming above the deck.





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ALIMURIMETA on February 12, 2016, 08:18:27 am
Hello Hande, what kind of glue you used to glue the deck to the hull? As the glue I used an epoxy mix with pumice. It works fine. It should be resined also the inner part of the deck , to have greater strength and impermeability.


(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-jHzTEs-YKhk/Vq8gbJ2tA6I/AAAAAAAAENo/4MGYtwkbAy8/s1280-Ic42/IMG_20160129_182649.jpg)


Ciao Ciao ALIMURIMETA

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 12, 2016, 12:16:50 pm
Francesco,


I used a 2-component PU (Polyurethan) that is "especially good for, a.o. ABS".
I'm no chemist, so I don't mix anything, but rely on professional chemists' skills...

BTW - by my research, I have concluded that epoxy is not good for bonding ABS. May be ok for filling. But I found many reports of epoxy popping off ABS. On the other hand, there are different epoxies.

The seam is very good. I need to fill a little here and there. Planning to use "chemical stone" (a 2 component plasticine-like stuff. Like green stuff, only harder)



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 13, 2016, 07:36:38 am
Changed my mind. I just filled the gaps with Tamiya basic putty. The gaps were small enough..



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 13, 2016, 02:59:17 pm
Messing with the plywood made it break between layers. I tried to glue where I could, but this area was left loose.
I ended up cutting the loose area with a scalpel, and filling it up with a fine filler.
I worry that some time in future, that part will come off, brake the paint layers and generally create nuisance.  {:-{





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 15, 2016, 07:48:19 pm
Surgery on the sub-deck is done. I think I managed to salvage it, and not have to make new one.  :-)

I don't know how these "stabiliser fins" are called - so I call them "fins"; :embarrassed:

I sanded them to at least resemble the ones that I have seen on Smit Finland. Glued them on the hull with PU (mentioned earlier, see above). The PU is great in terms of sticking on ABS!!

I noticed that Billings' vision about the "fins" is far from the original. For Billings, they are just decorative detail. I used them anyhow. On Smit Finland, there is an other pair of smaller iron "rods", above the "fins". Just as long, but they are not fin-like at all. I may add them to my model (for decoration  ok2 ).

Does anybody have knowledge about the "fins'" function in models? Do they play any role - if their size, shape and position is correct, that is?



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 15, 2016, 08:58:17 pm
This is the status today.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on February 15, 2016, 09:17:04 pm
Hello Hande, you seem to be getting along nicely now.

I will try to update my thread tonight if I get time to do so.

Reference the "fins" - these are known as Bilge Keels, they help to reduce the rolling of a ships hull. The plans for the kit show these bilge keels being pinned through the hull but I have not done so either. Mine have been glued and faired in, just as they were the first time.

Your build is looking good.  :-))

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 16, 2016, 06:19:56 am
Hello Hande, you seem to be getting along nicely now.

I will try to update my thread tonight if I get time to do so.

Reference the "fins" - these are known as Bilge Keels, they help to reduce the rolling of a ships hull. The plans for the kit show these bilge keels being pinned through the hull but I have not done so either. Mine have been glued and faired in, just as they were the first time.



Thanks, Ray!
Yes - I was thinking of changing my motto into:"Every hole through the hull is one too many" {-)




I was wondering, if the bilge keels have an effect in scale boats. - I understood their function in the full scale ship.
An other function may be to direct the flow of water into the propellers?



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Brian60 on February 16, 2016, 08:25:41 am

I was wondering, if the bilge keels have an effect in scale boats. - I understood their function in the full scale ship.
An other function may be to direct the flow of water into the propellers?

You would have to be a quantum physicist to work that one out! For instance you have miniaturised something that works well in full size.

So you have miniaturised the bilge keels, however you cannot do the same for the water, so you have a miniature item working against the full scale item. 

Does it have an effect? Possibly. Does it have the same effect as life size? Very doubtful. But a fluid dynamics engineer would be able to tell you for sure. Best way is to treat them as part of the scale build that makes the model look more lifelike.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 16, 2016, 11:47:52 am
Thanks Brian,
I am very much in favour of your suggestion.
Looking at the pictures of people's models, it seems to be a common view.


It's a very good point you made - scale model acting against "full size" water...
This is evident when observing a scale model going in real world waves. The model rocks too quickly.

I already studied some of the math of scale speed - applicable on a placid surface of a pond. Apart from race boats, I think the slower the model travels, the better it looks.


Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 16, 2016, 07:13:51 pm
So, above I learned a new term, bilge keel.


Here's the next one. After studying the photo of the real Smit Finland/UREKA XIV, I learned that she has this "fender thingy" right above the bilge keel.


I went ahead and produced my first ~scratch~ element to my model, as the Billings kit does not include the "fender thingy". - Does it have a proper term?


I used disposable BBQ skewers that I split in half  %)



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 16, 2016, 07:19:52 pm

I used a 2-component PU (Polyurethan) that is "especially good for, a.o. ABS".


Glueing the bilge keels and the "fender thingies" I noticed that my PU glue seems the attack the ABS. That's why it sticks so well.
Now I keep my fingers crossed for the attack to cease well before it gets through the hull  {:-{
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 18, 2016, 09:53:53 pm
The anchors.
How sad is this?!
... and it's plastic!



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 18, 2016, 10:03:55 pm
After studying some superb Mayhem threads about glass fibering, I decided that I will do it to add rigidity to the hull.
On the inside, especially aft, it was messy - I have to sort the mess up when (if?) the epoxy cures.

Should I worry about the fact that some air is left under the glass cloth? It will be sealed by epoxy, to be sure, and I don't think the air bubbles are against the false keel.

My concern is water that inevitably finds its way under the sole plate.
- On one hand it's good that it can go there - out of the way of motors and electronics
- On the other hand, it is difficult to dry (I wake up at nights with the picture in my mind of Capt. Podge's hull and the damage water had done there...)


What do you think:
- should I leave the space for bilge water and make sure I dry it well after every dip in the pond? OR
- should I fill the space up with stuff so that no water can go hide under the sole plate?


What have you done?







Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 18, 2016, 10:08:42 pm
Coaming for the removable superstructure to-be au Capt. Podge.
I made it from balsawood and epoxied it for added strength, while I had some epoxy+IPA solution at hand for glassfibering the hull.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 19, 2016, 07:24:10 am

In case you are awaiting the news: The epoxy cured OK  :-) .


I can say that my first glassfiber operation is a moderate success... Failures include:
- dirt in the epoxy - there is tremendous static electricity in the glass cloth!
- folds in the cloth capturing air bubbles
- little spills of epoxy in places I didn't want them
All in all, OK.

After studying some superb Mayhem threads about glass fibering, I decided that I will do it to add rigidity to the hull.
On the inside, especially aft, it was messy - I have to sort the mess up when (if?) the epoxy cures.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on February 19, 2016, 02:24:13 pm
I would definitely seal up around the sole plate Hande - after sailing you could upend the boat and sponge out the water but I doubt you would ever get it all.

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 25, 2016, 11:57:17 am
I am 400km away from my build  <:( - so nothing happens in my man-cave.
Meanwhile - I have deliberated on some important choices and am about to nail down the following basics - unless I get negative primitive reactions and warnings from fellow modellists:
- brushed geared-down-motors (545 or 555, after I understand their main differences)
- analog rudder servo
- OpenTx (Taranis+, 8-channel FrSKY receiver)
- genuine tank steering/twisting, i.e. two ESCs
- power distribution board à la Action
- Kort propellers (these are _expensive_! Where should I buy two opposite direction 54mm 4-blade?)
- SLA main battery - any low current applications of future with separate batteries, if necessary

First stage without extra functionalities, i.e. no switches, sounds, telemetry, but those added once I can make the basic configuration sail. => expandability, removability and modifiability imperative.


Maybe less fundamental choices, but important nevertheless:
- a modular electronics tray, power distribution, receiver - the most needed connectors, charging connector etc) right under the the superstructure (see next)
- removable superstructure, so there is little reason to remove the whole deck
- provisions for lights, rotating radar antenna (connections between hull and superstructure, mast)
- if I can, removable bridge deck - for temporary attachment of a camera in its place.
- removable/replaceable sole plate so I can change _everything_ in the engine room, and be more relaxed in screwing motor, battery, servo mounts etc into it..
- install cross member aft for really good fasteners for the removable deck (au Terry @ Tugforum)




I feel confident about these, but feel free to bring me back to square 1. Now - with no purchases made - it's cheap to make mistakes  :D

This I couldn't decide: Should I go 6V or 12V ?? I would say, 12V gives more degrees of freedom for the future. But under-voltage for the motors would keep them from running too fast. On the othe hand, I thought I'd use down-gears. - Difficult...







Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on February 25, 2016, 06:54:09 pm
Sadly if you are not 'awash with the dosh' (money) then you have to pace your project for when you have funds to buy the parts and materials.

One thing I learned about equipment is that when you are testing parts, do not over tax them as if you subsequently find they are too weak, wrong size etc, then you can put them somewhere safe and use them for something else and have not wasted your money in the long term.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: cos918 on February 25, 2016, 09:34:06 pm
Hi ,a few thoughts and ideas


for radios ,there is this one has 14 ch so would do a lot of extras 
http://www.modelsport.co.uk/carson-reflex-stick-multi-pro-14ch-2.4ghz/rc-car-products/395375 (http://www.modelsport.co.uk/carson-reflex-stick-multi-pro-14ch-2.4ghz/rc-car-products/395375)


For ESC mtroniks are very good. you would need to measure your current pull first.
https://www.howesmodels.co.uk/category/Marine (https://www.howesmodels.co.uk/category/Marine)
Note Howes all so do raido and couplings


For props ,there is only one . Best in the world prop shop expensive but good.
http://www.prop-shop.co.uk/products.php?cat=kort-nozzle-propellers (http://www.prop-shop.co.uk/products.php?cat=kort-nozzle-propellers)


For motors . the 720 bb torque was great ,sadly no longer available. there is the 775 which has lots of power and low current pull. As for brush less I know nothing about them
http://www.componentshop.co.uk/775-dc-motor-12000rpm-with-mounting-bracket.html (http://www.componentshop.co.uk/775-dc-motor-12000rpm-with-mounting-bracket.html)


For switch lights etc
multiple light circuits
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191443172222?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191443172222?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
for single or duel circuites
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-WAY-Radio-Control-Switch-R-C-RC-Boat-Car-Tank-Plane-NEW-Version-/222031137760? (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-WAY-Radio-Control-Switch-R-C-RC-Boat-Car-Tank-Plane-NEW-Version-/222031137760?)


As for batteries ,due to weight and what can be posted . For SLA I would look  in Finland and for LIPO look at Hobby King .DE


John
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 26, 2016, 05:29:36 pm
Thank you John!
Great resource directory! O0
I will "print" it and put in on the wall of my man-cave  ok2






Taranis Plus in now ordered with the 8ch-telemetry receiver. It's a nice feeling to have one thing fixed. Now the building continues around an anchor point.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Brian60 on February 26, 2016, 07:08:23 pm
The multi switch in the ebay link is cheaper to buy from HobbyKing....
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__26114__Multi_Remote_Receiver_operated_on_off_Switch_UK_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=multi%20switch (http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__26114__Multi_Remote_Receiver_operated_on_off_Switch_UK_Warehouse_.html?strSearch=multi%20switch)

This can also be ordered from their european warehouse which is in Holland Hande.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 29, 2016, 05:33:12 pm
Item from my plan (above): The removable sole plate.


I so disliked the idea of dirt wet going under the sole plate - and staying there.
I also foresaw all the mess-ups with istallation of motors, servos and batteries, eventually ruining the sole plate.


So decided to make the sole plate removable/replacable - and made a solemn promise to myself about an annual cleanup.
Visited the hardware store and found these nuts that I glued into the false keel.


I am thinking that there should be some kind of noice suppression between the sole plate and the hull. Planning to put a strip of rubber mat there.


How's this for over-engineering  ;)







Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 29, 2016, 05:44:06 pm
Item from my plan (above): Fastening of the removable deck.


I learned some of this from Terry in the Tug Forum: You cannot see it here, yet, but I will make these screws with handles look like two extra bollards. I am pleased about the extra rigidity gained by the additional cross member, where the nuts sit to accept the fastening screws.


An other chapter about over-engineering, but my removable deck is not going to fly off in any storm of other bumpy waters  :}
(In case, you are interested, you may want to go back where I show, how the bow-end of the removable deck is secured.)





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on February 29, 2016, 11:14:26 pm
I will make these screws with handles look like two extra bollards.

I am intrigued - looks like it could be one for the future. :-)

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Brian60 on March 01, 2016, 01:46:48 pm
Those captive nuts are available down to size 3mm so the options for disguising the bolt parts as other types of deck fittings is big indeed. Bollards, bitts, capstans, winches, even clutter like oil drums could disguise the bolt ends. Imagination is all you need.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Captain fizz on March 01, 2016, 03:11:14 pm
Thanks Brian, oil drums, an excellent disguise for the screws securing the back deck on my Ayton Cross.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 01, 2016, 10:32:04 pm
Noice suppression under the sole plate.
The black strips are rubber.
The finishing is a regular primer (grey) sealed with epoxy. Hopefully waterproof.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 07, 2016, 08:11:46 am
My radio - Taranis Plus;

I haven't received the radio, yet, but I have already made the first version of programming with the OpenTX Companion software on my Mac.

Functions of my startup phase:
- flic of a switch:
     - failsafe (motors shut down, rudders slightly toward port side)
- selection switch
     - switch between synchronised motor drive and tank steering
- 3-position selection switch for trying 3 different expos on the rudders
- delay in rudder response (intended for realism)
- slowing down of rudder movement (realism and gentleness on the rudders)
- adjusting of rudder extreme positions
- adjusting of zero position offset
- flic of a switch (well - this is just for learning. I don't know if this is useful):
     - disable throttles sticks
     - disable rudders stick

It's cool to be able to simulate the radio after each stage of programming.


In future, there will be lights, sounds, telemetry, etc...
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 11, 2016, 03:44:56 pm
The basement of the superstructure turned out fine.
But with all the curvature of Billings plywood the house doesn't sit well. :(( >:-o



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 11, 2016, 03:45:58 pm
Waiting for deliveries...



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 11, 2016, 03:48:27 pm
Software is nice...




But don't we just LOVE    _ H A R D W A R E _    :-) {-) :} :-))





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on March 11, 2016, 04:00:22 pm
Looks like you are making steady progress Hande. Like the hardware. O0

Take your time sorting out the lower superstructure, it will be worth it in the end. :-))

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 11, 2016, 04:46:47 pm
Take your time sorting out the lower superstructure, it will be worth it in the end. :-))
Thanks, Ray  :-)


Yes - whatever comes on top, will stand or fall with what lies beneath...
The deck isn't straigt, now, is it..!?

You are using plasticard, which is straight by default. But I have a disaster cooking up with the vertical walls, where the staircases should be erected. The blinking walls bend inwards both vertically and horizontally.
Do you still get these "I knew that, but didn't think about it" experiences..? I'm hoping this is a newbie-thing and with experience, you think of _everything_ before you cut and glue and paint...  ok2


We note your comments on the formatting problem above and would appreciate comments from members as to WHY it's happening

Ken

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on March 11, 2016, 05:04:31 pm
[/size]Do you still get these "I knew that, but didn't think about it" experiences..? I'm hoping this is a newbie-thing and with experience, you think of _everything_ before you cut and glue and paint... [size=78%] ok2


 {-) {-) I get those experiences every time I open the workshop door. {-) {-)

...but seriously, there is always a chance of putting these things right.
As you proceed with the stairs you should find that, once it's all together, the force of the other bits and pieces will should straighten the thing out.
Note: I imagine the fitting of the rear bulkhead (the one with the louvre vents) should help straighten things up a bit. :-))

A word about Plasticard - it is very difficult to get a straight edge but, again as things go together, mistakes are often nullified or otherwise hidden. ;)

Keep at it Hande - you'll get there....

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 13, 2016, 02:55:48 pm
How true, Capt!  It's like magic...
The rear bulkhead was under a lot of weight for more than two days, because it was all bent - well, screwed.
When I finally got glueing it to the rest of the lower house, the whole thing straightened up*  :-)


The only thing that didn't fix itself was the starboard bulkhead. I will be amazed if adding the staircase straightens that one, too...




*Well, I have now also learned about "covering and hiding my sins"  :embarrassed:
This is how innocence is lost and the cynical model builder is emerging..?  ok2



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 13, 2016, 03:02:27 pm
I was reading a thread about rivet heads.
Decided to experiment with an idea that I had:


I pressed on kitchen aluminum foil, with the back end of a small paint brush, against a pinewood block.
I got very nice holes, which on the back side turned out nice bumps.
Then I filled the holes with glue (PVA) and the result looks promising. If I work carefully and not hastily, as I did now, I will create an appearence of a row of heavy bolts that connect the fender blocks in the stern and the bow.


All this because in the kit, the attachment of the fender blocks is not realistic at all (just glued).
In pictures of my full-size version they are attached with two bolts each.





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 14, 2016, 03:22:39 pm
Seat for the rudder servo.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 14, 2016, 03:26:24 pm

Take your time sorting out the lower superstructure, it will be worth it in the end. :-))

Regards,

Ray.


Got it!  O0 :}


I innovated on making the house sit exactly along the curve of the deck.
I was so eager that I forgot to take pictures step-by-step.
Once the glue has cured, I will post a picture of the result, before trimming.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Captain fizz on March 14, 2016, 03:45:27 pm
Seat for the rudder servo.
Well, that shouldn't go anywhere! :-))
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 14, 2016, 04:17:59 pm
Well, that shouldn't go anywhere! :-))


Just to make sure - I have my dog watching... :police:
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 14, 2016, 11:29:16 pm
Apart from seating the servo, I have practiced my skills of painting. I am re-ally afraid of starting the paint work  {:-{ . What if I mess up..!


I also made bottom shields for my Action electronics. I am planning to use velcro to install them, the receiver and ESCs for easy reconfiguration, should I decide on such an endeavour in future. For instance, I may have to look for the optimal location for the Rx.


I also test-installed the push rods - and wondered, how the wingy things should be made at the rudder-ends...*


Explanation: The rudder shafts are just shafts with M3 thread at the top end. My local shop didn't carry the pushrod arm* for such. Seems ridiculous to order something like that over the mail. If I attempt to make them myself, I would have to be able to produce two identical, which is ten times more difficult than to make just one. I suppose, the arms should be soldered - I wouldn't trust glueing or thread-locking two nuts. - Should I?




* what is the term for the "pushrod arms"?  :embarrassed:



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 15, 2016, 01:46:01 pm

I innovated on making the house sit exactly along the curve of the deck.
I was so eager that I forgot to take pictures step-by-step.
Once the glue has cured, I will post a picture of the result, before trimming.


Here it is.
1. I spread glue abundantly around the bottom of the house.
2. pressed gently a sheet of office overhead foil (remember those?) on the glue
3. turned the house around and pressed it down until I felt and saw it reach the final position
4. let the glue cure 20 hours


Now I have to cut around to remove the excess foil. I will leave it underneath the edges.
The fit is so snug that by adding a thin rubber seal water can hardly reach the coaming collar under the superstructure.


The glue is: Bostik grab adhesive (the tube package has no indication about the chemistry about the stuff.) It cures flexible and can be painted over.


Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on March 15, 2016, 11:59:06 pm
Now you're getting the hang of it Hande. O0

That superstructure is looking good and your ideas are credible - well done. :-))

I'm curious to know what the marked circle on the top is for ?

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 16, 2016, 04:56:05 pm


I'm curious to know what the marked circle on the top is for ?

Regards,

Ray.


Me too. Billings seems to have had an idea. It is actually cut through.
One possibility is that they have used the area to cut one piece there, because according to their vision, that space is not going to be exposed. I didn't check yet, where such a circular piece would be needed.


I have started to think that I could may be exploit such a nice opening to realise my plan to make the wheelhouse removable so as to allow occasional camera sessions.





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Captain fizz on March 16, 2016, 05:08:56 pm
A very elegant solution indeed. :-))
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 16, 2016, 10:03:18 pm
It's like christmas  %)


My Kort props and metal anchors arrived and I couldn't be happier!




My only concern is about the shop (Hobby-Lobby, Germany).


For this small package, they charged over 20€ (Heavier package from Component shop 6£). They have the worst deal with German post!
Write to them in English they reply in German >:-o
I'm glad they are not the only store out there!



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 16, 2016, 10:24:46 pm


I'm curious to know what the marked circle on the top is for ?

Regards,

Ray.


I found it in the diagrams. The circle-part belongs to the main towing winch.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on March 16, 2016, 11:49:11 pm

I found it in the diagrams. The circle-part belongs to the main towing winch.



How very odd !

I can visualise the main winch part but don't recall having to cut a hole in a solid roof to get at it. :o

I'll have a look at my plans tomorrow.....it's got me bamboozled. %%

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: oldiron on March 17, 2016, 03:11:51 am

I found it in the diagrams. The circle-part belongs to the main towing winch.

 I don't see that. the main towing winch is on the main deck tucked in against the deck house, not up where the wheel house is.

John
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 17, 2016, 07:06:07 am
Sorry, Oldiron. Yes, I know.


The circle is laser-cut through and it is to be removed from the top of the lower house, to be used in the assembly of the winch. The part number is 75/25 if you still have the part list.


Before I knew, what it is, I didn't dare take it away. (Hard to put back, if it would have had another function).





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 17, 2016, 07:16:59 am
How very odd !

I can visualise the main winch part but don't recall having to cut a hole in a solid roof to get at it. :o

I'll have a look at my plans tomorrow.....it's got me bamboozled. %%

Regards,

Ray.


I have already seen that different year-models have had slightly different laser-cuts. The "instruction manuals" have inclusions and omissions that differ from year to year. I don't know exactly from what year my kit is from. The most notable difference between years is the way rudders are to be built. I have the version where the rudders had to be glued together out of a myriad little pieces of acrylic. Later models had solid brass ready-made rudders (which I would have preferred, to be sure - but I took it as a learning experience  :D [size=78%]).[/size]


The part 75/25 just occupies an empty space where the hole would not be seen once the kit is finished. I your case, the part was probably someplace else in the plywood sheets.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on March 18, 2016, 12:55:48 am
Hi Hande - yes, you are right about the differences in the production of the kits.

I must have one of the later versions, my rudders being a part of the fittings kit. If I had decided not to buy the fittings as extra cost, then there would have been no rudders in the box at all - crazy %%

Looking at the location where part 75/25 is cut away, will the wheelhouse floor cover the gap when you come to fit it? If so, you will need to find a way of covering it. :((

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 18, 2016, 07:49:35 am
In my version, the wheelhouse floor /part#51/ is solid, thus covering the hole. In this picture, the location can be seen more clearly.
If I can come up with an elegant fastening solution, I will not glue it on, but make it removable.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 18, 2016, 07:59:42 am
Studying pictures of the full-size vessel that my model is being based on, I noticed that Billings has neglected the flag pole between the stocks. I know where it is to be attached. I tried to figure out, how it scales down to 1/33 and cut, filed and sanded a flag pole from scratch  :-)  The tip is 1 mm thick, which is still a little much scale-wise, but I didn't dare continue sanding - I may break it. It looks pretty much right.







Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: oldiron on March 18, 2016, 10:05:46 am
Studying pictures of the full-size vessel that my model is being based on, I noticed that Billings has neglected the flag pole between the stocks. I know where it is to be attached. I tried to figure out, how it scales down to 1/33 and cut, filed and sanded a flag pole from scratch  :-)  The tip is 1 mm thick, which is still a little much scale-wise, but I didn't dare continue sanding - I may break it. It looks pretty much right.

Nice work, but why not make it from brass rod and telescoping tubing soldered together? Must less time consuming and stronger in the long run.

John
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 18, 2016, 03:45:46 pm
Thank you for the hint! I'll use it when this one breaks and a new one is due.


I don't have brass material at home. I looked for all kinds of things.
I am so new to this building hobby that everytime I need some material, I have to buy it. I suppose experienced builders have tons of useful stuff around - just a matter of looking around, huh?



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on March 18, 2016, 03:52:44 pm
On the telescopic idea - maybe the upper portions of an old car aerial or an old 27mhz Tx aerial.

Just a thought....

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: essex2visuvesi on March 18, 2016, 04:16:53 pm
Thank you for the hint! I'll use it when this one breaks and a new one is due.


I don't have brass material at home. I looked for all kinds of things.
I am so new to this building hobby that everytime I need some material, I have to buy it. I suppose experienced builders have tons of useful stuff around - just a matter of looking around, huh?


You must be the only Finn I know who doesn't have 4 generations of "useful" stuff stored somewhere  {-)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: oldiron on March 18, 2016, 04:19:55 pm
Thank you for the hint! I'll use it when this one breaks and a new one is due.


I don't have brass material at home. I looked for all kinds of things.
I am so new to this building hobby that everytime I need some material, I have to buy it. I suppose experienced builders have tons of useful stuff around - just a matter of looking around, huh?

Your local hobby shop should carry K&S brass shapes and such.

John
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 18, 2016, 09:32:03 pm

You must be the only Finn I know who doesn't have 4 generations of "useful" stuff stored somewhere  {-)


Oh, don't get me wrong, e2v; I have tons of _stuff_, but I seldom seem to have the _right stuff_  ;)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: essex2visuvesi on March 18, 2016, 09:42:45 pm

Oh, don't get me wrong, e2v; I have tons of _stuff_, but I seldom seem to have the _right stuff_  ;)


Ah that makes sense.... We were looking for something in the shed last summer and found some brand new in box carburettors for a wartburg 311. My father in law had one before my wife was born! lol
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 25, 2016, 10:11:37 am
Carefully adding doors, ventilation openings, portholes. Starts to look like a vessel :-)



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on March 26, 2016, 12:12:43 am
Looking good Hande.  :-))

Everything looking crisp and true....

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Brian60 on March 26, 2016, 07:41:11 am
Hande. I don't want to be a spoilsport because this is a nice build. But you have glued the doors on back to front. The large flange should be against the superstructure wall. This is a welded flange that holds the door to the superstructure. You have the smaller part glued to the wall which is the actual opening part of the door. Check the photo I have enclosed.....
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Captain fizz on March 26, 2016, 08:10:58 am
Brian, you are of course correct, but I fear you may have spoilt Hande's weekend!!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: derekwarner on March 26, 2016, 08:52:56 am
Isn't it a 50/50 split here Brian? %)

The sea door with the portlight is a companionway door...it has the smaller envelope size rectangular flange which is welded outer bulkhead wall & this seals against the black rubber seal as shown in the opened door

The sea door without the portlight is a machinery access door...it has a different constructed profile with the full face larger doubler flange being larger that the actual dimension of the sea door. This door would also have a similar/same black rubber seal as shown in the opened door

I was under the impression that the differing door structures were a function or requirement of the vessel Classification under the respective Insurance Codes in fireproof or explosion resistant ratings etc............... Derek
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on March 26, 2016, 01:08:02 pm
Oh dear, that means a number of us have made the mistake of staying true to the plans then.

My doors are rigged the same way as Hande - same for Oldiron.... %)

Well...mine are staying as they are. :P

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: oldiron on March 26, 2016, 01:34:35 pm
Oh dear, that means a number of us have made the mistake of staying true to the plans then.

My doors are rigged the same way as Hande - same for Oldiron.... %)

Well...mine are staying as they are. :P

Regards,

Ray.

  guess we all fell into that trap. not changing mine now.

John
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 26, 2016, 08:31:46 pm
Brian60, don't worry about my sentiment (although I'm glad that I'm not alone  :D ).

I did study the real doors. Turned out there's no way I could have arrived anywhere near the real doors with Billings kit's parts. For once, the larger piece is the only one with the porthole in it. Second, that's how Billings drawings suggested the pieces should be glued. More than poor simulation of the doors in general, I don't sleep well due to the fact that the smaller pieces are way too thick and it makes the door look really funny, when you stop to think about it. I should have sanded them down way thinner.
I entertained different scenarios. I would have liked to simulate one or two of the doors (as well as the little vent doors) open, for instance, like they are in many photographs.

Well I decided that I stick to the original plan and build my tug from a kit, not from scratch, and relaxed some of my ambitions there.

Before I post pictures of my stair cases, I warn everbody about the fact that the kit does not support the building of them exactly according to the real vessel. At the risk of spoiling someone's weekend: count the steps! Especially in the portside staircase that has a platform some midway up. At late (or early, rather) hours I was getting desperate for not being able to match my build with the photo of the real vessel.
NOT a good idea to _mix_ kit pictures with those of the real ship! It's either or in many cases.

In some cases one can divert from the kit, though; Has anyone wondered how awkward is the line (I don't know the proper term) coming down from the mast to the front edge of the wheelhouse top (a lá Billings). I'm planning to attach two lines to the back corners of the wheelhouse, like Oldiron did - and more importantly like they go in the original Smit Finland/Ureka XIV.
 totally sympathise with scratch builders, now. I see the attraction in trying to come up with good simulations of the real vessel. Maybe something for future...

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on March 26, 2016, 09:02:29 pm
She is coming along really well Hande! I am learning a few new ideas along the way.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 01, 2016, 08:24:22 am
I have been playing with my radio - it arrived on Tuesday.
The programming that I had done on my PC, and now loaded into the radio, worked great. I can switch between synchronised drive and tank drive by turning a switch. I removed one spring, so as to make both gimbals equal (for tank drive).

With a programmable radio and Action Electronics, I have a great number of degrees of freedom  :}

Now I need to adjust the rudder movement so that the Becker pins don't escape from their guiding holes.

The above means little progress in the dry dock. I attached the staircases last night, though.

Under the the port side stairs, I have disguised a rather ugly looking support structure as a cooling unit of air conditioning. The support was required to straighten up the the tail of port side bulkhead. Together with this support and the staircase glued in place, the curvature of the bulkhead is tolerable, although it didn't go away...


Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 01, 2016, 08:53:34 pm
Electrics tray.


I reckoned there's plenty of room in the lower superstructure, so I built in 3 dimensions.

Everything is attached with velcro, except for the receiver tower and the elevated shelf of the P95 (motor power control), and the mains switch. For P92 (power distribution) the wires have to be unscrewed for the board removal.

Beneath there's a connector between P92 and the ESCs and the connector to the battery.

In to the below decks, there are cables for the rudder servo, motor power and the battery.

The pictures show the leds:
- On P95 both red and green are on: the motors are running in opposite directions, as per Tx programming.
- (other picture) On the ESCs the green lights are on: the motors have stopped (neutral) (At full throttle, both green and red lights are on.)

I wonder, how the Rx antennae should be hung. They shouldn't touch each other.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on April 01, 2016, 09:29:41 pm
Oh to have a voluminous hull! Looks good Hande, as does the superstructure. I cannot see any warpage so reckon your remedial work has suceeded.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 01, 2016, 09:41:16 pm
Oh to have a voluminous hull! Looks good Hande, as does the superstructure. I cannot see any warpage so reckon your remedial work has suceeded.


You are kind, thank you!
Only do not not look too closely...  :embarrassed:
But you are right in the sense that when she's sailing over the pond, she'll look just right  :} . I managed to remedy the very worst with my special "air conditioning cooler unit"  O0
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on April 02, 2016, 12:37:52 am
Hi Hande - WOW, your electrical installation looks fantastic and oh, so neat (makes mine look like spaghetti) :D

I managed to remedy the very worst with my special "air conditioning cooler unit"  O0

That's a neat little solution you have created there - I must reluctantly point something out here though. Have a look at my thread, page 5, reply no.121, photos 4 & 5 - these show the generator? for the winch, which is tucked away almost where your a.c. unit is. Will you be able to squeeze it in or perhaps you have already thought of an alternative arrangement.

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 02, 2016, 08:49:31 am
oops!!!  :o


One of the first advice that I got was:
"Study the plans, read and reread the instructions over again. Read and study AHEAD, so you know what's coming."


Did I do that, now? Did I follow the first rule, did I..?  :police: >:-o


I'll be back on this. I'm afraid it's going to be a _modified_ model build  :embarrassed: {:-{


Someone dismissed kit building as something where one just glues some parts together. Well, this is not like that. Not for an unexperienced builder it isn't anysway.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Captain fizz on April 02, 2016, 08:52:37 am
Don't be too hard on yourself Hande, you are doing really well :-))
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 02, 2016, 09:12:38 am
All consolation is welcome :D
I have this mental problem with me making mistakes. This build serves as therapy for my problem.
This hobby should be advertised as such, among other things!

I am slowly learning to almost enjoy making a mistake - and then solving it...
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Captain fizz on April 02, 2016, 10:24:52 am
We all make errors Hande.
Just after starting my latest build, i had been merrily installing the prop shafts and Kort nozzles, I had even turned up a pair of discs to ensure that the shafts were exactly central in said nozzles. 'What could possibly go wrong?" I hear you say. In a moment of brain fade, I installed the nozzles back to front!
Of course, the Kort shafts are not central in the nozzle, so when they are turned round, the props are no longer directly below the pivot point Arhhh! >>:-(
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 02, 2016, 11:06:50 am
oh dear... I bet you didn't laugh then, Simon!

Yes, I suppose there isn't such a thing as error-free build.
I'll embrace that fact O0



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on April 02, 2016, 03:27:03 pm

Someone dismissed kit building as something where one just glues some parts together. Well, this is not like that. Not for an unexperienced builder it isn't anysway.

Now, THAT's a quote I can related to - and I'm STILL making unforced errors.

Let's look at these things as "setbacks" rather than "mistakes"  ;)

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Brian60 on April 03, 2016, 12:26:15 pm


 


Someone dismissed kit building as something where one just glues some parts together. Well, this is not like that.

Well that is certainly being expedient with the truth and a total misquote if ever there was one! As it was I who started the topic to which you refer, I suggest you read it again, at no point was I being dismissive of kit builders at all. In fact I do believe that I was defensive of your position and I was the first to commend you on this build! Enough said, it's the last time I will be offering advice >:-o
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 05, 2016, 11:44:46 pm
Took me a life time to do these with the sausages I have for fingers...



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Captain fizz on April 05, 2016, 11:49:37 pm
Starting to look really good now Hande.


Simon
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 05, 2016, 11:53:37 pm
Bulwark supports.


I want to do at least some painting next.


All bulwark supports are accounted for and they fit roughly in the holes reserved for them by a nice Billings-person.


I need to design some kind of a platform, where I can stick the 69 pieces (standing upright) and paint them around, without having to hold them in my (sausage) fingers. I bet _you_ have your particular design..?  %)


I take a ...erm... mineral water and go to bed (2am).


Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 06, 2016, 12:00:07 am
Starting to look really good now Hande.


Simon


Thank you, Simon. Yes - in particular, I like the bench on which the crew members will eat sandwiches from their lunch-boxes  :-) .
Why else should it be there??



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on April 06, 2016, 12:18:08 am
Ref the bulwark supports - last time I painted mine (off the model) I just took a few strips of paper masking tape, made a loop so that the "sticky" surface was on the outside. The loop was then pressed down (flat) onto strips of spare wood then the supports were pressed onto this, lying on their side, then paint applied.
When happy with the finish, made fresh masking tape up and pressed supports on again and painted the other side.

Just a thought - would it be possible to use some card (cereal packet type) cut in strips and temp glued to the supports as if they were the bulwarks, say 6 per strip, (on the outside edge of course). These could then be removed from the model for painting. Also, the card could be marked with numbers to identify the supports for putting back onboard later.
I have not tried this myself.... :-)

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Captain fizz on April 06, 2016, 07:04:10 am
I think I would remove them from deck, using 50mm masking tape, tape the deck and then put them back.
Ready made painting jig.
Will you be brush painting or spraying?


Simon
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 06, 2016, 08:36:22 am
I have planned to airbrush. There will be small parts that need to be brushed, of course.
As long as the main deck is still clean of fittings, I think it's a good idea to use the deck as a painting jig, Simon :-) .
The thought had crossed my mind earlier, but it didn't occur to me that I could take the supports off after painting. Only that it would be difficult to mask the supports, while the deck was being painted.

Questions about painting:
- I have bad experience from glueing painted parts. That was when I used enamel paints and liquid cement. With acrylics, should I sand the paint off the edge that is to be glued?
- How does one conduct the paint-sand-paint-sand-(ad infinitum) procedure on the little devils of fittings? Many are so intricate that I will surely break them before the second round is finished. - I'm guessing that one doesn't and any defect of the finish will not show on the small objects?
- What is your experience from masking plywood? When I glue-etched the simulation of weld seams on the deck (I think they show in my pics), the plywood came off with the masking tape (not too badly - I succeeded in sanding the surface smooth again, enough to finish it with coats of paint). I have proper masking tape, but I realise there are different qualities. May be I got the wrong type? May be I shouldn't mask on the raw plywood, but on a primed surface only?

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 06, 2016, 08:50:40 am
Just a thought - would it be possible to use some card (cereal packet type) cut in strips and temp glued to the supports as if they were the bulwarks, say 6 per strip, (on the outside edge of course). These could then be removed from the model for painting. Also, the card could be marked with numbers to identify the supports for putting back onboard later.


This is credible! An advantage would be that the to-be-glued edge would remain clean of paint, and a better joint would result.


...ok - thinking ahead (or thinking aloud, rather): supports painted, the inside of the bulwark should probably be painted off the build, too. At least it would be so much easier. But the bow and stern bending has to be done before painting. Which brings me back to the question about glueing painted surfaces.


...reminder for myself: have to check anything that goes against the bulwark!  :police:  At least there are some bollards. And the main hawse guiding arch (I don't know the nautical term for that) across the stern.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 06, 2016, 09:49:28 pm
It is done!  {:-{


This post is a memorial... <:(


...well - when you look at the tools that it took to remove my clever little A/C, it does look funny...




..you may laugh  :embarrassed:


Lesson learned: Don't take this hobby too seriously. It is not acceptable to have tears on your build.





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Captain fizz on April 07, 2016, 07:50:37 am
I love it Hande, tools ranging from delicate to out and out brutal.
It can be a frustrating game that's for sure! :-))


Simon
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 07, 2016, 10:42:13 am
Oh, I feel sorry for my little 1/33 crew members, who can't open the engine room door completely  {:-{


Lesson learned: If I don't know exactly, how to position (e.g.) a door, don't glue it, just yet. I may find out later, how it should be positioned  :embarrassed:



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 13, 2016, 08:35:36 am
Deck fittings.
Time consuming, this is. These have tiny little parts. Sanding them has made my fingers even shorter :((


Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 13, 2016, 08:38:12 am
Something went wrong with the parrot beak hook {:-{


Don't you think the hook should rest on the deck?? - It does so in the few pictures that I have seen.
I'm going to sand the holder, rather than take the assembly apart and redo the whole thing.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 13, 2016, 08:44:36 am
Glue -> paint - or vice versa?


This is a good example of my dilemma about glueing painted surfaces.


Considering that advice goes that the surfaces to be glued shall be free of paint  :police:
if I glue the pedestal of the anchor windlass onto the deck, the space beneath it will be very difficult to paint properly.
I could take the attitude "out of sight - out of mind", but something tells me differently.


If I paint the deck first, and then glue the fittings onto it, it will result in poor bonding..?
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Captain fizz on April 13, 2016, 09:53:59 am
Carefully mask the bonding area to leave bare wood.
Then you should only have final touching in to do after gluing.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 13, 2016, 05:06:29 pm
Carefully mask the bonding area to leave bare wood.


I understand. Priority on good bond. Careful is the word - not my strong point, I'm afraid  {:-{
but I'll do my best...



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on April 14, 2016, 02:00:04 am
I go with Cap'n Fizz on this one - also, you could mask just inside the bonding areas of the deck, rather than right on the line. That way, any touching in will be kept to a minimum. :-)

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 17, 2016, 07:15:56 pm
Anchor windlass ready for paint. The control panel not glued, yet. It's still on the wrong side, here.

- Yes, I know - I managed to make it a mirror image rf. the real vessel (another oops!).
Lesson learned: Once I'm absolutely certain, that I got it right - check once more (maybe I got  it mirrored?):

Note the bollards and the thing-that-I-don't-know-how-to-call-it attached to the superstructure instead of the deck.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on April 17, 2016, 11:54:23 pm
Note the bollards and the thing-that-I-don't-know-how-to-call-it attached to the superstructure instead of the deck.


Your model is coming along fine Hande - the "thing" you refer to, I believe, could be an engine room escape hatch ? I'm not certain of this but there are experienced tug men on here who will know. O0

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 18, 2016, 01:38:09 am
Yes - a hatch - I thought, too.


Spent all night with the eyebrows (as "Thamestug" of the Tugforum calls them) - or dropstoppers, or another-thing (I wouldn't know these terms even in Finnish...)
I glued them with CA without strengthening the bond with pins  - we will see, if they come apart anytime soon.
I will have to be very careful touching the lower superstructure anyway, because of the liferaft holders - they are very fragile, indeed!



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Captain fizz on April 18, 2016, 07:39:47 am
Your detail is looking excellent Hande, this is going to be some model, well done!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 18, 2016, 11:09:15 am
Thank you for the compliment, Captain Fizz  :-)


As a matter of getting it on the record:
An error in the kit (apart from material flaws) is the mismatch between the distance of the anchor chain holes in the deck and the distance between the anchor chain wheels in the windlass. I have promised myself that I won't cry over my build, so I don't. There's nothing I can do about it without tampering with the windlass. I will not do that either.


One can only see how the anchor chain leads don't meet the windlass in straight angle, when looking from straight above, I guess? If it were the real vessel, it would be totally unacceptable that the chain must run in an angle. - Actually it wouldn't do that either - the chain would jump off the wheel, I suppose.







Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 18, 2016, 11:18:29 am
As a matter of simulation:
The anchor chain is supposed to run below deck, of course, but Billings doesn't suggest anything.
How have you solved this?


I thought about drilling extra holes into the pedestal (not through the deck) and insert a chain hawse pipe, as I have seen in pictures of the real vessel, thus simulating the chain drain.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Captain fizz on April 18, 2016, 11:38:00 am
You are quite correct Hande, the chain would tail down through the base of the winch table into the chain locker. The chain run would be off under the drum to ensure at least three quarters of the chain gypsy is in contact with the chain to ensure no chain slip.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: derekwarner on April 18, 2016, 12:05:02 pm
Guys........just think back, the included angle of engagement between the anchor chain to the anchor winch drum is in the order of a nominal 112.5 to 122.5 degrees :o...........

Chain slip is limited by the engagement of the male chain loop profile to the female cast segmented loop profile in the winch drum

Will try & find a diagrammatic reference for you.............

Derek
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: derekwarner on April 18, 2016, 12:41:15 pm
Chain engagement image as below............... ;) ........
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 18, 2016, 12:48:12 pm
Nice diagram. I got the idea O0


This is my simulation.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 18, 2016, 12:52:57 pm
Thank you for ever so subtly teaching me the terminology, too  O0 :-)
I eagerly absorb every new term
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Captain fizz on April 18, 2016, 01:08:23 pm
As ever Hande, an elegant solution. :-))
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on April 18, 2016, 11:10:52 pm
Nice diagram. I got the idea O0

This is my simulation.


That looks really good Hande - I'm going to copy that idea, because I like it. :-)

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 19, 2016, 12:22:17 am
 :D
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 19, 2016, 02:12:10 pm
A couple of hatches. Doesn't look like much, but took all night again



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: TugCowboy on April 19, 2016, 08:58:19 pm
Looking absolutely fantastic, Hande.
Really enjoying watching this build come together.

Alex
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 19, 2016, 09:37:28 pm
I appreciate your encouragement, Alex!
Model boat Mayhem is one of the best things that happened to me since I started again with model building - after a 40-year pause  :}
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Norseman on April 19, 2016, 11:54:51 pm
a 40-year pause  :}


Hello Hande
I am enjoying your build thread and its discussions. I am also very impressed by how good you are at pausing - please don't pause again before you finish this tug.


Dave
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 20, 2016, 07:17:06 am
Thank you, Dave  ;D


The 40 years have brought me to a place with no deadlines and no time-to-bed.
I find it most liberating. With all that regained time I can release my patience - so to say - that was long lost, when I entered working life. Setbacks don't make me angry anymore. I don't have to rush to the next phase of the build, because there's no boss telling me to.


OK - getting philosophical again ...


All is good! (Unemployment does suck, to be sure, but I'm surviving.)



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on April 20, 2016, 11:36:50 pm
All is good! (Unemployment does suck, to be sure, but I'm surviving.)


That's a good attitude to have Hande.

Well, retirement isn't as relaxing as it should be....I've never been so busy >>:-( helping other people that is. :P

As for your build? Coming on nice and steady. :-))

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 21, 2016, 03:38:22 pm

Oh, don't get me wrong, e2v; I have tons of _stuff_, but I seldom seem to have the _right stuff_  ;)


Need a spinning painting table. Went to look for something in the attick. - For ONCE there was the right stuff to be found - an old office chair  :} %%
Jolly good!





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on April 21, 2016, 09:10:00 pm
That is a good idea Hande! It is like a huge cake decoraters turntable. If you take the seat off and replace it with a board you will have a flat surface that perhaps you could drill holes in to mount fixing points etc.

Your build is coming along really nicely. I like seeing well finished plywood,it is a joy to see and smell.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 21, 2016, 09:57:57 pm
Oh yes, good idea to take the seat off. I haven't checked, but even the seat holder may be inclined, though.
Tonight, I put a board on the seat and the whole thing worked well. It spins so smoothly. A high quality chair it is.


So - I started with the painting by priming some small parts. I just had to paint something to overcome my fear of painting. I hope I'll get over it and can proceed to the main body of the build.


Can anyone tell me, what they use for tacking? I have microfiber cloth, but "they" tell me it has some chemicals that are not good for paint.


I use Vallejo acrylics.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 22, 2016, 05:51:07 am
Small parts primed once with a 50% Vallejo primer (other 50% is acrylic raisin).
Wooden parts have to be sanded smooth and reprimed.


The brass props are smooth and I don't see a need to apply an additional coat of primer - would you disagree?





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 22, 2016, 10:38:27 pm
OK - I screwed up with the primer (I'm having that discussion under painting techniques).
This doesn't help my paint-o-phobia any...

Removing all I can, and start again. (tears have dried already. {:-{  )


Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on April 23, 2016, 12:43:27 pm
Don't fret Josse, you will get there. I cannot help with read to tacking as I have never done it and will try and do without (In a dusty atmosphere, yeah right!)

I wondered wether the swivel mount was angled and looked at my office chair at work. It looked level to me and am pleased that you didn't waste time trying out my suggestion only to find the mount was slanted. Making a wedge of wood would have rectified this, but it just adds to the job.

I am glad the idea worked :-)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 23, 2016, 07:26:05 pm
Reapplied a primer (this time etch primer for brass and copper - see "Primer on brass" http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=54635.new#top )


I will stubbornly paint the props, being warned about paint not holding on props too well.
I am thinking bronze or boltgun steel. The rudders will be painted the same.


I can always revert to bare brass, if the paint falls off.


This is how the building site looks now.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on April 23, 2016, 07:44:22 pm
She's starting to come together Josse! If the paint doesn't work a quick soak in Paint stripper will clean them off:O)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 27, 2016, 01:02:42 am
The propellers, rudders and anchors got a bronze paint tonight. It's my special mix of Bronze metal and Boltgun metal colours. The second picture should show how it looks.


The propellers and the rudders have a glossy varnish for effectiveness in water (I would have preferred semi-matt for looks' sake). The anchors are semi-matt.





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on April 27, 2016, 01:10:18 am
It's my special mix of Bronze metal and Boltgun metal colours.


That looks nice Hande - I have those colours in my Warhammer paints so I shall do a mix and see how it looks on some of my 40k armoury. :-)

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 27, 2016, 01:20:33 am
After the props etc. I finally dared prime the lower house (sigh!).

The primer reveals flaws on the surface - which it shall do, I know. It's just that I'm surprised how much filling I have to do, before I can start with the proper painting.

I have found another good reason to use plasticard instead of plywood: plasticard doesn't grow hair with the first coat of paint. The hair is everywhere - including the narrow spaces between fittings. It's going to kill me sanding it away. The primer being slightly rubbery doesn't help sanding at all.

As if it were not enough of misery - I dropped the house and the other of the two liferaft holders broke into six pieces  >>:-( {:-{ . Being such a delicate piece of work, it was ... erm ... a character building exercise to glue it back together. It's best I glue the raft into the holder asap, to make it more robust.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Captain fizz on April 27, 2016, 08:15:08 am
That colour looks really good Hande.
Your experience of "hairy" plywood beggars the question whether it is better to paint the main structures before too much detail is added.
I wouldn't go too mad with the gloss finish underwater, satin Matt is hydraulically more efficient. :-))
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 27, 2016, 08:23:09 am
Now, that's good to know about the finish  O0
Without research, I thought, underwater we should go as glossy as possible. Less friction.
Is satin best for rudders and propellers only, or everything underwater?
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 27, 2016, 08:28:37 am

Your experience of "hairy" plywood beggars the question whether it is better to paint the main structures before too much detail is added.



I know - I knew beforehand that bare wood grows hair with the first coat. After sanding the plywood, I foolishly just admired, how "smooth" the surface was. I also wanted to glue fittings before painting, for optimal bonding. I should have masked for the fittings, I guess.







Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Captain fizz on April 27, 2016, 08:32:26 am
There are pros and cons for both methods, it is always a difficult choice {:-{
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 27, 2016, 05:01:16 pm
The propellers, rudders and anchors got a bronze paint tonight. It's my special mix of Bronze metal and Boltgun metal colours. The second picture should show how it looks.



Correction: the Vallejo paint is "Gunmetal".
"Boltgun metal" is a Citadel paint (Games Workshop/Warhammers).



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: cos918 on April 27, 2016, 05:08:43 pm
After the props etc. I finally dared prime the lower house (sigh!).

The primer reveals flaws on the surface - which it shall do, I know. It's just that I'm surprised how much filling I have to do, before I can start with the proper painting.

I have found another good reason to use plasticard instead of plywood: plasticard doesn't grow hair with the first coat of paint. The hair is everywhere - including the narrow spaces between fittings. It's going to kill me sanding it away. The primer being slightly rubbery doesn't help sanding at all.

As if it were not enough of misery - I dropped the house and the other of the two liferaft holders broke into six pieces  >>:-( {:-{ . Being such a delicate piece of work, it was ... erm ... a character building exercise to glue it back together. It's best I glue the raft into the holder asap, to make it more robust.




Hi
one of the problems is the quality of the plywood billings use. Crap is the only word to describe it. Ok it has been over 10 years since I made a billings kits but between me and my friend we have done 7 kits and all the wood was poor quality.
You have 3 options
1 use the billings wood and a ton of filler etc
2 get some decent model ply wood and use the billings as templates
3 use plastic card and use the billings as templates .


me i prefer plastic card


john
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 27, 2016, 10:15:48 pm
I hear you, John.
I'm going to remember these experiences when I start my second build...
This diary is a great reminder O0
Model Boat Mayhem IS great thanks to all yous nice people out there - around the world. I can't stop marveling that fact  :}
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Captain fizz on April 27, 2016, 10:30:25 pm
I think the bottom line is that you never stop learning. Be it from personal experience, that of others and the advice of forum members.
This place is a great resource, long may it continue.


Simon
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 06, 2016, 02:40:14 am
After the props etc. I finally dared prime the lower house (sigh!).

I have found another good reason to use plasticard instead of plywood: plasticard doesn't grow hair with the first coat of paint. The hair is everywhere - including the narrow spaces between fittings. It's going to kill me sanding it away. The primer being slightly rubbery doesn't help sanding at all.




It's hard to report on such a big fail... setback, but for completenesses sake:


It wasn't wood hair after all (see the quote). It was primer that had dried already on its way to the surface.
I read Oldiron's tutorial from head to finish and he even offered some further advice (thank you again!).


I have spent the past days removing the primer that I had foolishly sprayed all around the lower superstructure. Yes between fittings and under the staircases.


The primer is gone now, but the plywood and some of the fittings are damaged and plenty of more filling and repair has to be done


Also, I have been preparing for the basecoating of the hull.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 07, 2016, 04:19:13 pm
Believe me - I have been waiting for this sensation of finally doing something right  :((
Well, I think I have managed to prime the hull ok. ;D


There were depressions (from factory), scratches (self inflicted) etc. It's all gone O0 :D
and I have a smooth surface to paint the basecoat red.


Credit is due to several Mayhemmers and hours of Youtube tutorials - not so much the manufacturers' sites that are annoyingly poor with information and instructions about their products (I'm surprised).


Special thanks to Oldiron. Although I painted the primer out of a Tamiya spray can, not airbrushed (because of the large surface) his airbrushing tutorial on Mayhem pages is very useful also at this stage, and I will keep the teachings in mind, when I start airbrush painting on the smaller parts. In addition, I even got personal help through PM. I'm very grateful!



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: oldiron on May 07, 2016, 07:43:06 pm
Believe me - I have been waiting for this sensation of finally doing something right  :((
Well, I think I have managed to prime the hull ok. ;D


There were depressions (from factory), scratches (self inflicted) etc. It's all gone O0 :D
and I have a smooth surface to paint the basecoat red.


Credit is due to several Mayhemmers and hours of Youtube tutorials - not so much the manufacturers' sites that are annoyingly poor with information and instructions about their products (I'm surprised).


Special thanks to Oldiron. Although I painted the primer out of a Tamiya spray can, not airbrushed (because of the large surface) his airbrushing tutorial on Mayhem pages is very useful also at this stage, and I will keep the teachings in mind, when I start airbrush painting on the smaller parts. In addition, I even got personal help through PM. I'm very grateful!

  Your hull looks superb. Glad things worked out for you. you're on track now.
Glad to have been of assistance.

John
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on May 08, 2016, 11:46:57 pm
Well, I think I have managed to prime the hull ok. ;D


Looks good in my eyes Hande 8)

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 09, 2016, 02:29:09 pm
 :D %%  Thank you for your support, both!

Meanwhile, I'm learning to make the surface smooth. I thought I'd do it one part at a time. It's going ok.
In one spot I bared the ABS to get rid of a minor scratch. (feeling confident again - so soon after setback %) :embarrassed: ). Repainted.

For other rough areas it suffices to just sand lightly. So, question:
Should I repaint, where I sanded, even if the bare surface is still covered by primer? The surface obviously looks different, but to the finger it seems more or less the same.

I understand that the paint is not going to cover any unevenness. Therefore, I would _think_ that for optimal result, the primer should be as even as possible. Hence, if sanding is required, new coat of primer is due, where sanded.

If by chance Stavros sees this ;-) I use panel wipes, tack, sand dry. I must thank Stavros for important points! I got panel wipes that don't contain refresheners, perfumes etc. (costly!) I got microfiber tack rags.

I have another question to all:
What are the proper panel wipes and tack rags that YOU use?


Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 09, 2016, 02:46:06 pm
More of a reminder for myself, but if someone is interested, I'll be glad to shed more light to the matter.
Reply#31 and around is about problems with the sub-deck plywood. I plastered the wound with sanding filler.


The filler turned out stable and smooth.


Somehow when sanding, however, the wound sank into the plywood. I wasn't able to make the surface even. I reapplied more filler and each time the wound sank again.


TODAY I found out what the problem was. I had attempted to remove the delaminated portion, hence the wound and filler. I had assumed everything around was good and healthy. But it wasn't. It was the surroundings that was rising, not the wound that was sinking  >>:-( :o


The fix cosists of cutting through the surface of the delaminated plywood and stuff CA into the cut and press.


Now it's solid all around. Later I will apply another filler coat and hopefully have an even deck.


I was adviced to bin the faulty part and make a new one, but here I am still repairing  :embarrassed: .
I suspect, I'm going to have to make a new sub-deck in future.


Fortunately, the superstructure is removable, so the module is not too big.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: oldiron on May 09, 2016, 06:41:39 pm
More of a reminder for myself, but if someone is interested, I'll be glad to shed more light to the matter.
Reply#31 and around is about problems with the sub-deck plywood. I plastered the wound with sanding filler.


The filler turned out stable and smooth.


Somehow when sanding, however, the wound sank into the plywood. I wasn't able to make the surface even. I reapplied more filler and each time the wound sank again.


TODAY I found out what the problem was. I had attempted to remove the delaminated portion, hence the wound and filler. I had assumed everything around was good and healthy. But it wasn't. It was the surroundings that was rising, not the wound that was sinking  >>:-( :o


The fix cosists of cutting through the surface of the delaminated plywood and stuff CA into the cut and press.


Now it's solid all around. Later I will apply another filler coat and hopefully have an even deck.


I was adviced to bin the faulty part and make a new one, but here I am still repairing  :embarrassed: .
I suspect, I'm going to have to make a new sub-deck in future.


Fortunately, the superstructure is removable, so the module is not too big.

  Good to try and repair the old part if you can. ts experience for next time. You may want to make a newpart in the end, but what you're doing is giving you invaluable knowledge for next time.

John
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 10, 2016, 11:32:17 pm
This is the repaired sub-deck.
It looks really ugly.
Nothing that a little paint won't fix - I hope.
I still have to fix some of the weld simulation.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 10, 2016, 11:37:03 pm
A little bit of tidying up of the bilge keels and the fender rods.
I really should have done that a long time ago. Now, with the primer, the poor quality of my workmanship was exclamated.


And a neat little fix of a scratch (cute)  %)

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 11, 2016, 12:22:02 am
I still have to fix some of the weld simulation.


Couldn't go to bed with the weld simulations undone. They're done now.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 11, 2016, 05:04:22 pm
The sub-deck after primer application.
I must say, there's nothing I _could_ do to make it better, considering the quality of the material. I'm referring to my abilities, to be sure {:-{


After filling it seemed smooth, but now wood grain shows through here and there and the surface is not absolutely even. Then again, the deck of a real tug is hardly 100% smooth and straight.
(I do know that weathering is something that one does to a pristine model. In this case, the deck is "pre-weathered" as far as the shape is concerned. I take no pride, nor shame for it - it's just a matter of fact.

I complain to myself about the weld seams being too conspicuous. My skill level considered, I think they are not too bad :embarrassed: O0
Is there a substance that I could use to make the wood grain (tiny holes, actually) go away, in the course of further painting? I have read in one thread that matt/satin varnish as a middle coat would be an option. What do you think?
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: oldiron on May 11, 2016, 05:41:40 pm
I think you're doing great. Keep up the good work.

John
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on May 11, 2016, 10:23:32 pm
The deck looks ok to me Hande - you will hardly notice it anyway, once all the fittings are in place. 8)

If you really wanted to, you could add thin plastic card to the deck, in sections, which would give you the "welded deck" you're after.
This would also give you a smooth surface to paint.

Note: I have not tried this myself. :embarrassed:

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 12, 2016, 08:00:14 am
Interesting idea plasticard-plywood hybrid. To keep in store when going gets tough. Thanks!
This deck has been TOUCHED so much - from now on, I'll keep it to the minimum. Anticipating lots and lots of thin coats of paint.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ALIMURIMETA on May 12, 2016, 10:24:18 am

HELLO HANDE, a great job. You are very precise and clean construction.
I pass the link to my photo gallery of smit nederland built in 1:50 scale.


https://picasaweb.google.com/104338459899956487602/SMITNEDERLAND


Cheers and Enjoy


ALIMURIMETA
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: essex2visuvesi on May 12, 2016, 10:44:07 am
The deck looks ok to me Hande - you will hardly notice it anyway, once all the fittings are in place. 8)

If you really wanted to, you could add thin plastic card to the deck, in sections, which would give you the "welded deck" you're after.
This would also give you a smooth surface to paint.

Note: I have not tried this myself. :embarrassed:

Regards,


Ray.


I've used this method before, but not on a model boat..... it is very effective
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 14, 2016, 05:32:27 pm
HELLO HANDE, a great job. You are very precise and clean construction.
I pass the link to my photo gallery of smit nederland built in 1:50 scale.



Talk about a great job! It's very interesting to see your S.N.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 14, 2016, 05:43:31 pm
The parrot-beak hook rest.
I referred to this earlier in this blog.
I understand now, why the hook seemed to hang in mid-air. The kit didn't provide any suggestion for the resting rail, along which the hook can be moved from side to side/the hook moves freely according to the drag of the hawse.

Unfortunately, before I found the picture I was looking for, I had already been hasty and made a modification that left the hook resting on the deck.

There's enough slack, luckily, to squeeze a somewhat modified resting rail under the hook.

The innovation here is the repurposing of a shower curtaing hanger (acrylic, may be? It's hard.). Heated it up to reform, and dremeled it to the correct shape. It's not perfectly smooth but I will give it a try with paint. The heating may have made it very fragile. But there is no stress upon it, so it'll serve its purpose.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on June 01, 2016, 09:42:30 pm
I'm alive.
flling and sanding a bit at a time.
Terrified of painting - I seem to find lots of excuses to postpone it.
The hull is primed and ready to go on the outside. If only I dared.
I build fittings and sometimes hold a bottle of paint in my hand and then put it back...


A plan develops in my mind about how to paint the bulwark knees. But it's just a plan.


Another "problem" is that I unexpectedly got work. Paid and all. It seriously distracts me from the hobby  %)



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on June 02, 2016, 12:00:06 am
Another "problem" is that I unexpectedly got work.

That's great news Hande - take it while you can.

Your paint plan. Review it, step by step, rearrange if necessary then, with the right weather conditions and your day(s) off - just go for it. :-)

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on June 13, 2016, 07:06:49 am
I decided to go for it after a lot of time deliberating.
Primed some fittings. Carefully - thin coat after another.
It didn't go without setback this time either:


I had removed some excess glue (gorilla wood glue), but not well enough.
Vallejo Surface Primer DOES NOT stick onto glue spilled on wood. No matter how invisible the glue is.


sigh...

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on June 15, 2016, 07:00:08 pm
Painting the hull.
I'm off to a three weeks' vacation - slash - separation from my build.
I decided that I want to see some colour, before I go. The weather was good so I went out to spray the hull with Tamiya Dull Red.

No orange peel.
No pores.
Only very minor imperfections due to little scratches. I will leave them.

This will serve as the base coat. Planning to apply an additional coat of the red after my trip, then a coat of satin varnish to fill some of the smaller marks, and continue with one or two coats of the red. 

I will mask for the waterline and paint the up side black, once I have the bulwark in place (some apprehension about that portion of the build).

Then lettering and a final coat of satin varnish. At every stage, light sanding, wiping, tacking. After I'm convinced that I have the surface fully covered with paint, I will turn from dry sanding to wet. This is what I've understood to be the best practice (rf. Stavros's advice). Please, tell me if I'm going wrong somewhere. Too many coats?
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on June 17, 2016, 03:01:26 pm
That's a very neat paint job Hande - Your step-by-step approach seems ok to me.

Enjoy your holiday.

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on June 17, 2016, 08:13:47 pm
And how quickly you have got this well developed stage in the build by giving the hull a good prime! Looks great. As you said Hande, the real things get very lumpy and shabby in service so a few dents etc are perfectly acceptable In my humble oppinion.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on June 17, 2016, 11:18:04 pm
Thanks Capt and Ballastanksian  :D
I appreciate your continuing support. I'm sorry that my project slowed down and I lost momentum. I will do my best to maintain some degree of anticipation.
After three weeks - just wait till I get to the bulwark knees and the bulwark..  ;)



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on June 17, 2016, 11:58:07 pm
I'm sorry that my project slowed down and I lost momentum.


No apologies necessary Hande. This is what athletes often refer to as "hitting the wall".
I believe the vast majority of boat modellers suffer from the same thing as you - I know I do. <*<

No point in rushing things anyway, you will get there eventually. O0

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on August 09, 2016, 09:40:48 pm
With all the mess I made with Vallejo Surface primer, I decided to do some practice, before I continue with painting the proper model. I begin to understand its behaviour...  O0  I know - I should have practiced before I started in the first place  :police:  But I thought:"How hard can it be..." (from the series:"famous last words")  :embarrassed:


Repaired/remade some pieces that I'd broken and masked the fittings that are to be painted next.


Added more coats on the hull. With the price of Tamiya spray cans, my hull will be the most expensive this side of the galaxy  >:-o . But they ARE so easy and fun to use  O0 :embarrassed:



Observation: Even with a number of layers (primer, base coat, paint coats) and weeks of curing, just touch the surface with a fresh drop of Tamiya paint and all coats will instantly dissolve under that drop and a bright white spot of exposed plastic will show  {:-{ >:-o  I wanted to fix a little imperfection, I did...

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on August 10, 2016, 12:16:12 am

Observation: Even with a number of layers (primer, base coat, paint coats) and weeks of curing, just touch the surface with a fresh drop of Tamiya paint and all coats will instantly dissolve under that drop and a bright white spot of exposed plastic will show  {:-{ >:-o  I wanted to fix a little imperfection, I did...


This sounds like a cellulose problem to me. Can't say I've ever come across this before though. %%

Perhaps someone more knowledgeable will respond. :embarrassed:

Regards,

Ray.
 
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on August 14, 2016, 10:05:02 pm
I have studied the use of Vallejo Surface Primer - and now I am getting there.
With small fittings it's not difficult and the result is satisfactory.  O0
But with my small airbrush, larger surfaces are really hard to paint evenly. :((

I primed the subdeck with a Tamiya spray Fine Surface Primer. After some iterations I'm now done with it. You can see little bumps and other imperfections, but after all, it is a miracle that I made it this far with the original kit part that was so full of defects in the beginning.  O0

The fittings are less than optimal, but I suspect that when fitted and everything is put together, they will be just fine.  %)

My troubles continue with the lower superstructure.  <*< As you can see, the plywood shows with all the Danish quality features, and my incompetence. I find it simply impossible to sand between the fittings without spoiling the little that is more or less ok. And there really is no sanding of the Vallejo Surface primer. If I go too hard on it, it will peel. This is the tradeoff with Vallejo Surface Primer - optimal surface on a smooth surface - no sanding if the surface underneath is not smooth. I'm starting to think, Vallejo Surface primer is not for wood. Wood grows imperfections naturally, when wet with paint.

I found 1:35 crew in a local shop. They will look tiny on a 1:33 ship, but acceptable - don't you think?

Still looking for tyres. Am not finding. Thinking, how hard can it be to make a dozen truck tyres. (Actually, I learned that aircraft tyres are preferred on real tugs, but I guess they are not common at all.)


Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 04, 2016, 05:11:31 pm
Painting bulwark knees.
Using forward deck as a painting stand.
This way I can do 14 at a time. Thought of setting up the deck all around, but was afraid that I couldn't keep the circus together turning the boat around and not having very much room for the paint job. Dropping parts etc.
Slowly does it...



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on October 04, 2016, 10:20:55 pm
Hiya Hande - that looks to be a nice neat way of painting those supports. (14 down, 55 to go) - am I right to assume the clothes pegs are there to keep tension on the covering sheet ?

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 05, 2016, 04:59:42 pm
am I right to assume the clothes pegs are there to keep tension on the covering sheet ?

Regards,

Ray.


yes -exactly. The sheet is plastic kitchen foil - soft enough to let pierce through with the notch of each bulwark knee, and thin enough not to block the hole. The foil is so light that without the pegs there is a risk of the airbrush blowing the foil up and against wet paint.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 14, 2016, 12:22:58 am
Almost ashamed to report my minor progress  :embarrassed:
I observe here on the forum that others do what they want.
I'm bound by what I _can_ do.
This (see the pics) is what I can do. I honestly think this is my best working on plywood.
It is a relief to accept it and allow for all the imperfections. For a perfectionist this is a big step.


And hey - back to having fun  :}  That IS what the hobby is all about  O0









Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 14, 2016, 12:39:48 am
Oh and the recepies of the above (Vallejo Model color mostly. Some colours are Air color):


bulwark knees: yellow + ochre 50/50
Escape hatch: an awkward mixture of Hull red, Light orange and orange brown 30/30/30 (doesn't add up - I know...)


Plenty of airbrush thinner close to 50%
Drops of flow improver.


surface primer:
1. a mist
2. a coat of primer
sand smooth


colour:
1. a mist
2-3. coats of color
sanding
4-5. coats of color
6. satin varnish light coat
7. satin varnish finish


Tried to collect all my patience to let cure between coats. I did everything between 30 minutes and 48 hours.
Final coats I sometimes just waited to see that the paint had dried (30 min). Other times, I let cure 24 hours.
My patience varies...  :embarrassed:
The primer I let cure for 48 hours or more even.
Brought the pieces sometimes to a warm (dry) sauna for better curing results.  ;)


Planning to seal with an equivalent of Future (doesn't sell in Finland).
Tested "Future" on satin varnish - nice sheen to be expected.







Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Brian60 on October 14, 2016, 07:39:48 am
The paint is looking good Hande, but you shouldn't need to mix to get the correct colour, Vallejo (model color) do a vast range......

http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/

However for a massive range of colours try this link..........

http://www.migjimenez.com/en/

Mig Jimenez designed and worked for Vallejo until they had a falling out, then he set up his own company with as I said a truly massive range of paint and other materials.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on October 14, 2016, 11:31:34 am
I wouldn't get too bogged down where painting is concerned - there's always something else to be done while paint is drying off, even if it's just preparing smaller items for gluing etc..

Also, I think you will find that, once the hull is done, the remainder will come together quite quickly. O0

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 14, 2016, 04:12:11 pm
Thanks for the link to resources, Brian60!



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 14, 2016, 04:40:51 pm

I wouldn't get too bogged down where painting is concerned - there's always something else to be done while paint is drying off, even if it's just preparing smaller items for gluing etc..


I knew that...  ok2  What is it that makes man "forget" even the most elementary of the rules? Every now and then, I lose self discipline and just let go... Too easy to let the airbrush fly and not stop. I should get me a board/structure/scrap model on the side so I can move over there every time I feel like letting go. It would be good for practice, too.


Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on October 14, 2016, 08:28:36 pm
Good idea Josse. I know of modellers and wargamers who keep an old tank model to test paint and the like on. They occasionally strip vast quanitites of paint off them to be able to see some detail again! You are doing great Josse and have the right ethos in enjoying your hobby. Do it for you and at your pace.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 21, 2017, 09:27:47 am
Sparmax quality (SP-35). The nozzle broke in two while gently cleaning it with a smooth brush. >>:-(
The air brush is only months old. (I think I could still count the times that I have dismantled the nozzle).
DID NOT use force, no shocks or dropping.

The vendor didn't care enough about the customer - or brand image - to replace the part.
(I mean - what did it cost to them just to replace the part? - Unless they are getting a lot of these cases..?





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 21, 2017, 09:29:32 am
I love this Stanley vise..!  O0 I should have gotten it a year ago, when I started.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 21, 2017, 09:34:18 am
enough about tools...


For the life rafts, I used enamel paint. The rubber seal is still missing. Needs weathering. They are unnaturally clean now...

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 21, 2017, 09:38:25 am
In Finland, one naturally comes by with some hockey stick tape  ok2
The life rings (X6) are coming out promising...
The ropes still not finished.
This is slow progress, and without the air brush (waiting for a replacement nozzle (15€ !!!  >>:-( ) even slower.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on January 21, 2017, 04:17:18 pm
Good to see you are still at it Hande.

Spray gun trouble is what made me turn to rattle cans for spraying larger areas - still prefer to hand paint for smaller items.
The tape you are using on the lifebelts looks like good material - I like your new vice as well. :-)

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on January 21, 2017, 06:03:57 pm
Cool vice but uncool customer relations regarding the nozzle. Surely it has a parts warranty even if for only one year??
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: desktoprover on January 21, 2017, 06:35:44 pm
I went through your build for the first time this morning!  It's looking really good, nice work!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 22, 2017, 01:12:04 am
For the life rafts, I used enamel paint. The rubber seal is still missing. Needs weathering. They are unnaturally clean now...


I tried to make the life raft packs look as if you could actually snap them open. It took me almost three hours to get the rubber gaskets done  :embarrassed:
I got close - I think. I chose a different model than many of my fellow modelers. Meaning the edge of the upper half goes over the edge of the lower one, thus, in my simulation,  the rubber gasket is mostly concealed under the edge of the upper half. This model is one that is mostly seen here in Finland. More water proof.


So, in my simulation tale, the company down in Morocco procured the life rafts for the UREKA tugs from Finland

Nowadays the large corporation in question owns several former Smit tugs and they renamed them - rather unimaginably - UREKA [number]. My Smit Finland (sister of Smit Nederland, Smit Rusland and I believe four other tugs) is today UREKA XIV.


Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 22, 2017, 01:18:46 am
I went through your build for the first time this morning!  It's looking really good, nice work!


Thanks for the encouragement, desktoprover  :D

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 22, 2017, 01:24:55 am
Good to see you are still at it Hande.

Spray gun trouble is what made me turn to rattle cans for spraying larger areas - still prefer to hand paint for smaller items.
The tape you are using on the lifebelts looks like good material - I like your new vice as well. :-)

Regards,

Ray.


Yes, good to "see" you too, capt Ray! (see pm)


I know - the rattle cans are so much fun to use. I am learning to use the airbrush, though. The thing is that I wanted to save some money, when unemployed, and got this "economy" model from a poor-customer-service- vendor. Now that I am actually paid some salary - may be I should get me a proper one...



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 22, 2017, 01:31:55 am
Cool vice but uncool customer relations regarding the nozzle. Surely it has a parts warranty even if for only one year??


You never miss an opportunity to say some kind words, ballastanksian  :-)  Thank you!
With this Sparmax vendor - I'm not going to sue them for 15€. But I will choose a different manufacturer for my next airbrush - and informed the merchant about my decision.


Btw, is "vise" american, and "vice" english? I have a side agenda to learn english at the same time that I interact on the forum here.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: tigertiger on January 22, 2017, 03:35:50 am
Sparmax quality (SP-35). The nozzle broke in two while gently cleaning it with a smooth brush. >>:-(
The air brush is only months old. (I think I could still count the times that I have dismantled the nozzle).
DID NOT use force, no shocks or dropping.




That nozzle/jet looks like it was made of cheap white metal. It would have degraded and failed soon anyway.
If you can identify the thread size you could search on line for manufacturers with a same thread replacement nozzle/jet.
If you can get spares from Sparmax spares, buy 2 or 3, it will save on postage and if/when one fails again, you won't be stuck waiting for a replacement.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 22, 2017, 07:56:44 am



That nozzle/jet looks like it was made of cheap white metal. It would have degraded and failed soon anyway.
If you can identify the thread size you could search on line for manufacturers with a same thread replacement nozzle/jet.
If you can get spares from Sparmax spares, buy 2 or 3, it will save on postage and if/when one fails again, you won't be stuck waiting for a replacement.


good hints!
Thank you tigertiger  :-) 







Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on January 22, 2017, 11:37:25 pm
Hi Hande,

I say credit where credit is due because, while we are not premadonnas, it is nice to have a bit of compliment and some feedback on what we are doing if only to affirm that we are at least doing something sensible. Many times, an idea may seem daft, but with thinking out and stepping back to consider it against other ideas, it seems no less practial. I try not to compliment after every picture because that is not constructive. Seeing a series of process shots turn into a completed structure is more impressive, unless a single picture has an effect on me.

As regards Vice/Vice, Vice is the English term for an implement mounted on a bench that holds something steady to work upon. In the States, Vise is used to describe the same thing. It stems from the fact that America has a diverse heritage, with immigrants from most European countries as well as people from Central and South America bringing their dialects of Spanish and Brazillian.

Many Europeans learnt English as it became the standard language, but have their own manners of translation. The German language is at times back wards to English by way of where Adjectives (I think) are placed, and you will notice this when listening to some Americans speak. The divergance of English and American English is similar to that between French and Swiss French, which are different enough to catch even French person out! Academy French evolved by way of court fashion in speech while the Swiss French remained much nearer to old French. I learnt this off a program on radio Four some years back- 'From your Correspondant' I recall.

Did you paint the seals on the raft containers or apply a strip of something around the edges?

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 23, 2017, 05:27:15 pm
I painted the gasket simulation.
That is to say, painted, wiped off, painted, wiped off X 25  :embarrassed:
I have a size 00 brush, but even that seemed too thick.
The whole night-session reminded me of my teen years with the static models that I was constructing out of Airfix kits.
Funny thing is - I didn't seem to mind that it was so tedious! Quite the contrary.
What is it that brings such ...uhm... happiness in a situation that is not apparently fun?
I entered a FLOW state of mind  :}


I enjoy learning about the intricacies of languages. I am working on my Italian these days. It's fun, too.


Thanks, ballastanksian!

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on January 23, 2017, 08:53:56 pm
If I am in the right mood, that is to say my day went well, then it is relaxing to do a long winded job.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 27, 2017, 05:43:16 pm
Life belts (rings?) getting almost there.
Lacking varnish and a little weathering.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Phil Ciborowski on February 23, 2017, 03:57:14 am
While I know its a bit late to suggest this, but would using black thread glued in place work well for the gasket? Once in place a shot of clear to hold things together and you would be all set.

Thats my thinking at least
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 03, 2017, 07:51:13 pm
Great thinking, Phil! O0
To be kept for a future build, to be sure!

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 03, 2017, 07:59:10 pm
These days, working on the bulwarks.
20 bulwark supporting knees to go painting and the long sides are primed.
Fairlead rings are in place - no surprises there.
Feeling apprehensive about putting the bulwarks together.
And, there's the bending of the bow and stern side bulwarks (bad experiences from bending and otherwise handling of the Billings plywood  {:-{ )


just to let you know, I'm still here  :D
cheers!

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on March 03, 2017, 08:04:43 pm
If you think the ply will fail or not do what you want then maybe replace it with a better product? This means you will be more confident that the work will succeed. Maybe build a simple mock up of a part of the bulwarks and use the billings ply to practice your ply handling on? What type of ply is it that you currently have? I have found Far eastyern ply in 3mm to be very brittle in one direction especially in thin stripes where as Birch ply is better.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on March 03, 2017, 11:52:24 pm
Feeling apprehensive about putting the bulwarks together.
And, there's the bending of the bow and stern side bulwarks (bad experiences from bending and otherwise handling of the Billings plywood  {:-{ )

Reading back through my rebuild thread, I used 2mm Birch Ply for the replacement bulwarks - it takes bending quite well - just had to ensure I used the ply with the grain vertical. ok2

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 11, 2017, 07:29:55 am
Reading back through my rebuild thread, I used 2mm Birch Ply for the replacement bulwarks - it takes bending quite well - just had to ensure I used the ply with the grain vertical. ok2

Regards,

Ray.


Thanks, Ray... sorry, but I don't understand what is ply with the grain vertical. Ply this thin is three layers. Do you mean the direction of the grain of the outermost layer? Thinking about it... that must be it! I had no idea it makes a difference... thanks again  :-)


Ballastanksian, the grain of birch tree is straight. I suppose it makes a difference, too. In Finland, birch is the standard. Only, as I reported earlier, good quality thin plywood for model building comes from Graupner (or else is hard to find). In the country that is built out of plywood!!!



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on March 11, 2017, 10:10:40 am
Hi Hande. Also have a look at reply no.7 on page 1 of Bluebirds Fairey Swordsman build - it is listed in the Masterclass section. :-)

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 12, 2017, 10:12:32 pm
Bluebird's very informative with the explanation. No wonder Bluebird is one of the master class  O0
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 16, 2017, 03:53:24 pm
Hiya Hande - that looks to be a nice neat way of painting those supports. (14 down, 55 to go) ...

Regards,

Ray.


Capt Podge's reply to me starting with the bulwark supporting knees is dated Oct 05, 2016.
Today, I finished with the final nine  :D
Of course, they were not the only parts that I have been working on. But still - more than five months... I hope my Ureka XIV sails the coming summer!


14 at a time was too crowded. 10 at a time allowed more space between the supports.
The bow hawse bollard has got its first two coats.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on March 16, 2017, 09:28:23 pm
Any progress is better than no progress Hande. O0

Good to see you are using pins on the bollards. :-)

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 18, 2017, 10:19:51 pm
More bollards.
The two deck-level bollards stern-side.
Pinned them all the way through.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on March 19, 2017, 10:04:37 pm
It is a good idea to pin, as then if you knock something off you have both a specific point where the part came from and also a good locator to remount the piece with. On the Masters I design, I often make the pins different sizes on a piece with two so that it cannot easily be out the wrong way around.

Lovely work as ever Hande  :-))
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 19, 2017, 10:24:23 pm

I have - by now - made it my standard to use pins. I really buy all the benefits they bring  O0 Smart, Ballastanksian - the two different size pins - simply clever! :-))

I don't plan to tow with this model. There are too many weak points here and there.
But I did think about installing the bow and the stern bollards with proper screws so I could lift the boat by them - may be in emergency or otherwise. But I think I should have made them over-scale to make them strong enough... Besides, I don't trust the strength of the deck itself {:-{

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 26, 2017, 11:00:18 am
Smoo-ooth  :D 
Caught on her way to the mildly warm sauna for hardening.
Masking
- all around for the bulward
- here-there for the deck fittings


For the bulwark support knees, I have to carve a little bit from the paint in front of each one for secure glueing.


You can see how the sub-deck  bends upwards a little bit stern-side. Nothing like how it used to be in the beginning (if you recall my battle with bent plywood). It's under control. The holes towards stern are for securing screws that will be disguised as a barrels %)


Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 27, 2017, 08:59:10 pm
Some seriously bright white bollard-heads  ok2

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on March 27, 2017, 08:59:55 pm
Good for when taking part in a night sailing event:O)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 27, 2017, 09:38:43 pm
 {-)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 03, 2017, 08:19:19 pm
Green. Greener.
Encouraged by @Oldiron and his excellent tutorial, I'm doing this by airbrush.
I love the colour!  O0



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 03, 2017, 08:28:56 pm
As far as brushes go - this is the best I've ever experienced - at least for acrylics  O0
May be you can identify the material... Nylon? there was no precise specification - was sold separately.
Google took me to some web shops with cyrillic writing - limited info in English.
Any way, it's a great product! I have to go back to the hobby shop and buy more.





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 10, 2017, 09:41:23 pm
Masking tapes coming off nicely.
Spent an hour imagining, how my build is going to look like - eventually... %)

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on May 10, 2017, 09:48:08 pm
Well now, that's a really nice looking paint job Hande.  :-)

...looking very much like you're making steady progress.

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 12, 2017, 08:08:31 pm
Thank you, capt  :-)
I came back from a two-week vacation and decided that I need a visible sign of progress.


I'm wondering, though. Two week curing seems to be "enough" lol, but can it be too much?
There is the concept of curing window. Does it apply to acrylic paints?


Hande
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on June 27, 2017, 07:11:13 pm
I took the hot steam cleaning - thingy - and steamed the bulwarks and bent ever so carefully. Here the stern-end bulwark pieces. The bow piece is in the sauna drying-up.


I hope they don't break at any later point! Right now they look alright.


As you can see - I went over the required angle hoping that the resulting tension will squeeze them against the bulwark knees and produce a good joint. In afterthought, I wonder, if I should just relax them a little back to the correct angle. On the third hand, any further steaming may delaminate the plywood.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on June 27, 2017, 09:58:31 pm
Hi Hande, it's hard to tell from the photograph but, to me at least, the bulwark quarters look too far bent round. I can understand the theory regarding getting them hard up against the supports but my view is that if you affix the stern part first, when it comes to forcing the side part in place, there is a very real danger of the dreaded "snap". Fitting them on the side first will merely have the same result.

The Solution ?

I would soak the effected parts in hot (not boiling) water, allow to drain off, them fit them while still damp and peg into place against the supports and leave to dry completely.
Once dry, they can be removed, they should then retain their shape and can then be glued in place and clamped until the glue has completely hardened off. (24 hrs)

Hope this is of some help to you.

Regards,

Ray.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on June 30, 2017, 06:33:41 am
Thank you, Ray, for your insightful suggestion!
Yes - I think I "overthought" my approach, not only over-bent the pieces  :D


I am going to begin glueing the bulwark knees next. I have bought a suggestion to glue only every fourth-or-so first. After the bulwarks are on, then glue the rest of the bulwark knees - this way I am likely to get a pretty straight side bulwark.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on July 01, 2017, 10:51:04 pm
Slow progress... carving paint in front of the bulwark supports.
Found a Swiss made chisel, 2 mm wide. Perfect for the job!



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on July 01, 2017, 10:54:44 pm
Made a tool to sand around a pin hole  :-) .
These are for the bow hawse bollard.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on July 12, 2017, 07:02:57 pm
I finally got the fender-tyres  :}
And take note: they are made of rubber - you know, the stuff that TYRES are made of !!!


This is the fantastic secret:


Scalextric electric track cars have almost optimal tyre size. And did I mention it - they are made of real rubber.
The only imperfection is that the tyres are low profile for track race cars.


Solution: cut a slice off and you've got scale truck tyres. Couldn't be perfect..er.


Cutting rubber from pieces this small is tricky, but the imperfections make them look ever so real.


The good fortune in this story: My hobby shop keeper had bought the inventory of some importer of this stuff, including a bag full of spare tyres. I have kept asking for fender tyres for a tug boat, but it was last Monday that a bell rang in his head and he produced his special bag of spare Scalextric tyres for me :D
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on July 12, 2017, 09:37:56 pm
Hi Hande - glad to see you are still going on with the model - so, you have not "tyred" of it but, "tread" carefully... {-) {-)

Will the fender tyres be hung on ropes or chain ? - if you go with chain, make a hole in the centre of the tread and use a small split-pin to secure the chain to the inside of the tyre - hope this makes sense.

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Brian60 on July 13, 2017, 08:36:33 am
Its always worth looking in the tat shops ie £ stores, for cheap kids car toys. The cars can be disposed of but the tyres are great!

These particular ones are plastic but the size is what I was after, just 8mm in diameter from Matchbox size cars. 12 cars cost me 4€ so around £3.50. The metal bodies I melted down into a lump that I can recast later for various fittings :embarrassed:
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on July 13, 2017, 10:05:36 pm
Under or over bending things can work but obviously not in every occasion. I make wire rings and laminated styrene rings slightly undersize so that when I let the material go it springs to nearer its true size saving lots of faffage, but if the material won't take it, then its best to avoid.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on July 14, 2017, 06:05:50 pm
Hi Hande - glad to see you are still going on with the model - so, you have not "tyred" of it but, "tread" carefully... {-) {-)

Will the fender tyres be hung on ropes or chain ? - if you go with chain, make a hole in the centre of the tread and use a small split-pin to secure the chain to the inside of the tyre - hope this makes sense.

Regards,

Ray.


After some pondering, I finally got the play with words  {-) enjoyed it, Ray!
There is no sign of tire in my work with the build. I just don't have the time...  Retirement (retyrement  :D ) is approaching, fortunately.  on the other hand, I really can use the life support provided by my work assignment. So, meanwhile, I tread slowly.


These tyres are thick and heavy with rubber. The thickness is almost the same as the hight of the profile. So I thought I'd make a hole and stick the rope into the rubber with a shot of super glue.


But now that you mentioned chain... It would look so nice with chains! I wonder if they can be found in 1/33 scale. That's pretty thin. The anchor chain is too thick for sure.


Did I miss a special reason to "tread carefully", Ray?


Hande

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on July 14, 2017, 06:13:09 pm
Under or over bending things can work but obviously not in every occasion. I make wire rings and laminated styrene rings slightly undersize so that when I let the material go it springs to nearer its true size saving lots of faffage, but if the material won't take it, then its best to avoid.


Thanks for your view, ballastanksian! Stay tuned for some pics later on - over bending may be the least of my problems. I am planning to relax the bending the way Ray suggested. But for a strange reason, the bottom edge of the bow bulwark seems to be curly - or wavy, rather - leaving an opening between the bulwark and the deck surface in places... May need a ton of putty once I have the bulwarks on  {:-{
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on July 14, 2017, 06:17:22 pm
Its always worth looking in the tat shops ie £ stores, for cheap kids car toys. The cars can be disposed of but the tyres are great!



Yes, I know  -  I have been looking for toy cars. The ones I have found in flea markets, have had price tags of tens of euros! Apparently some collector's items... So, little luck until now.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on July 14, 2017, 09:38:10 pm

But now that you mentioned chain... It would look so nice with chains! I wonder if they can be found in 1/33 scale. That's pretty thin. The anchor chain is too thick for sure.

Did I miss a special reason to "tread carefully", Ray?
Hande

First of all the chains - this idea came to me after I had completed the Smit Nederland (notice that my tyre fenders are just slung up on "ropes") - maybe I'll opt for chains on her next maintenance programme.

Keep a look-out for costume jewellery - you might get a necklace or bangle with the right dimension of links for your tyre chains.

reason to tread carefully - Nah! - just a play on words my friend. :-)

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on July 19, 2017, 09:56:34 am

Solution: cut a slice off and you've got scale truck tyres. Couldn't be perfect..er.
Cutting rubber from pieces this small is tricky, but the imperfections make them look ever so real.



This is how I did the cutting. Asked her-inside to take a picture of the action  :D
Now that all 16 are done - may be you have suggestions for a better technique?
After about 10 tyres, I realised it's worthwhile to spit on the rubber for lubrication. Without, the blade just didn't run smoothly into the rubber. Even with this kind of lubrication it wasn't all smooth, but better anyway.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on July 19, 2017, 10:00:19 am
My little bulwark support support  :D
#35 port-side done!

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on July 19, 2017, 10:41:02 pm
That's an elegant idea  :-))
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on July 26, 2017, 09:05:07 pm
eazy does it :-)
In the picture, the bulwark knees seem to be all messed up. But they really are straight against their respective position on the deck.
I worry that they might be leaning forward in some cases - we shall see soon enough...
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on August 06, 2017, 08:51:53 am
Between given bulwark knees, extra supports have to be fitted for increased strength for the installation of the bulwark.
Now, have to carve paint for good glue joint.
I made a little improvised tool to carve 2mm.
Works fine along grain. But some of the bulwark knees are laser-cut across grain. Carving across grain results in a miniature potatoe field 2 mm wide  {:-{
I will use a glue with good filling properties and hope it will do the trick.
This pic is on the good case of carving along grain.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on August 06, 2017, 08:55:55 am
These are the fellows that go between the specific slots between bulwark support knees.
Pre-painted yellow on the inside.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on August 06, 2017, 08:57:16 am
Stern-side coming along...
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Brian60 on August 06, 2017, 09:01:32 am
Good work done here. I'm pinching the idea of the craft blades! I have 4 knives in use from sharp to almost ride bare arsed to London on it type blades, as they get blunt they move down the queue until no longer useful, thats because I can't readily get craft blades here. Those snap off ones can be bought in the diy shops, so I'll give them a go in my handles!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on August 06, 2017, 09:09:45 am
I am on the receiving side all the time with you hobbyist-fellows!
Couldn't be happier about succeeding to offer a hint - for once!

 %)


(CA seems to hold well between my blade pieces)

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on August 24, 2017, 08:58:45 am
I am thrilled.
My first UK model boat show.
I can't believe I'm really going to Haydock Park Model boat convention!


I'm going to the Beatlesweek festival at the same time.


Anyone else?
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on August 24, 2017, 08:55:28 pm
Sadly not. I love the Beatles. Have a great time at both events.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on September 11, 2017, 06:35:29 pm
Bulwark support enforcement pieces are in place - up to this point without the snap  :-)


You may be able to see how I filled gaps with sheets of plasticard. I found it easier than finding/making thin sheets of wood.
It was a random thought that I really hope I'm not going to regret  {:-{ 
I tried to eliminate the risk of snapping by using PU glue, supposedly very strong and good with almost any material.


Next step is to unbend the bow and stern pieces of the bulwark to better match the required shape (see reply #245).

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on September 14, 2017, 03:46:39 pm
Witness one happy model boat builder, here  %%
After all my bending and unbending the bulwarks fit nicely.


The plan is to mark the bulwark knees' positions, mask and paint before installations.
Bow and stern ends first, sides after.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on September 14, 2017, 07:49:00 pm
Those bulwarks look pretty smart Josse  :-))
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on September 14, 2017, 07:59:48 pm
Thanks for sharing my happy moment with me, ballastanksian :D
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: bfgstew on September 14, 2017, 08:02:32 pm
Certainly worth the effort, they have come out pefectly.... :-))


Stewart
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on September 14, 2017, 08:59:03 pm
Looking good Hande, very neat work indeed. :-)

....don't forget to seal / prime the bulwarks before top coating, otherwise the wood grain will show through - no need to ask me how I know this... :embarrassed:

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on September 16, 2017, 08:47:57 am
Certainly worth the effort, they have come out pefectly.... :-))
Stewart


VERY nice to "meet" you here, Stewart! Thanks for your kind words  O0
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on September 16, 2017, 09:01:28 am
Looking good Hande, very neat work indeed. :-)

....don't forget to seal / prime the bulwarks before top coating, otherwise the wood grain will show through - no need to ask me how I know this... :embarrassed:

Regards,
Ray.


Thank you, Ray, for reminding me of important details.
As always, your good humour keeps my spirits high, too  :}


Hande



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 04, 2017, 04:42:02 pm
Working on the bulwarks - forever, I'm afraid  {:-{


A detail that I neglected: the bulwark supports are supposed to be glued to the bulwarks. I had to sand my nicely finished painting on the inside of the side parts to accommodate the supports.  <:(


Furthermore, the bulwark knees that I glued already don't always meet with the bulwark, leaving a wide gap in some cases. It seems to me the installation of the bulwark supports went terribly wrong  <:( >>:-(


In hindsight, I should have shaped and sanded the bulwarks first. And used them for the glueing of the supports in correct positions. Then masked and painted the bulwarks - and finally installed the bulwark against the supports.  :((
Now, let this be a lesson for you, mates!  :police:
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 04, 2017, 04:56:34 pm

The plan is to mark the bulwark knees' positions, mask and paint before installations.
Bow and stern ends first, sides after.


Quoting myself, above.
I realised that I have to go sides first, bow and stern after.


The reason:
The large fairleads (if that's the term for the large holes in the bulwark) have to find their positions right after the bulwark support that connects the bulwark enforcement piece. If it ends up behind the bulwark support, "setback" would really be an understatement when having to cut through the enforcement piece and have a nice realistic hole all the way through. So, I want to make sure the holes are in correct places first, then see, how the bow and stern pieces fit. (also, the side pieces have zero margin for filing/sanding at the ends - the holes are right at each end)





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 04, 2017, 05:11:44 pm
I remind myself of the decision to report also all setbacks - for my own benefit, but maybe sometimes for someone else's. This story started as a strong candidate for a setback, but it has a happy ending:


Well. Originally, I thought the side pieces of the bulwark would be so flexible that I could simply glue them in their places just by bending them alittle.


It takes more than a little bending - it turned out.


What to do? I had already finished with my nice painting (see above) of the bulwark insides.


With tears in my eyes I put the bulwarks in hot steam in order to bend them into the correct shape.


Steamed them - expecting the boiling water to turn yellow.


Nothing of the sort happened, however!  :o :}


I could bend the plywood with only minor harm done to the painted surface.


I can tell you that if I ever doubted Vallejo acrylic paints and fine surface primer for their water proofness - I don't now!

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 06, 2017, 09:49:17 pm
One needs moments like this to regain confidence in what one is doing  :-)
Installed some deck furniture.

Bollards are pinned into the deck.
Especially the sternwards one has to hold fast in order to allow for lifting the end of the subdeck for removal.

The holes at the end of the subdeck are for fastening screws (which will be disguised as barrels).
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: T33cno on October 07, 2017, 08:03:34 pm
I'm loving your work  :-))
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 08, 2017, 10:37:23 am
Look, Andy, _you_ are one of my idols with your Portgarth build. Coming from you, the kind words are ever so valuable to me :}


You do what you will and always with superb finish. I only do, what I can - and always via a setback or two... I can spend some six to ten hours a week after work and tending to the family and the house. Hence the slow pace.


This is my first build in 40 years after some teenage builds from Airfix kits: the Spitfire, the Bismark etc. Even in those days I used to go to the local hobby shop and dream about the Smit Nederland kit and r/c control (yes, it's an old product with several evolution steps). Nobody wanted to invest in my enterprise those days :((


thanks again!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: T33cno on October 08, 2017, 10:51:26 am
You sound just like me  {-)
I make plenty of mistakes too but I keep those quiet  :-))
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 08, 2017, 06:19:19 pm
Serious setbacks require desperate deeds... {:-{


The ribs already glued in place that didn't meet the bulwark is the setback.


The desperate deed:
I snapped the bulwark supports in question, and drove micro-wedges beneath the supports.
I plan to soak the underside of these supports with CA. With some filling here-there and paint should hide my moment of desperation. The problem being, of course, that I will never forget it myself  <*<


This way, the supports will meet the bulwarks for proper glueing and the whole bulwark system should hold together for any practical purposes. - I don't seriously plan to do any real towing. Apart from something light, maybe?


... Oh, how much wiser I will be with my NEXT build ...  %)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: T33cno on October 08, 2017, 06:56:08 pm
Good recovery :-))
I like your signature "Trial-and-error doesn't spell failure - right?"
My deckhouse grab rails are being revised too. Posting report later %)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 08, 2017, 07:14:05 pm
Andy, I follow your progress  k e e n l y  :}


This is a rare occasion - I have been able to work in my man-cave for more than six hours. I still have some snapping to do now that I ate my lunch at 9 pm (!).



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 08, 2017, 09:44:16 pm
This is everything I've accomplished in about 22 months.
The motors and the rudder servo are working by a Taranis system, Action electronics and a lead battery - so on the inside it's pretty far done.
Am I even half the way through?
Capt Podge? Oldiron? Who-else-built-a-Neddie?



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on October 13, 2017, 06:37:16 pm
Hello there Hande.

First things first - I have been spending far too much time online (including on this Forum), much to the detriment of my modelling exploits, so decided to cut back on my browsing. Yes, I'm the first to admit that this Forum is a goldmine of information and ideas, which I shall continue to visit / submit replies etc... just "not as often".

Now - to your build.
Taking your time and putting things right where required is producing the goods - I know it can be frustrating at times - but the time spent doing what you're doing will end with a model boat to be proud of.

Looking at the latest photographs, may I suggest the unpainted portion of the deck should be painted before the 2 side bulwarks go on. The bits I'm referring to are the lines where the side bulwarks have cutaway portions (for freeing water from the deck) - I think you will otherwise have a fiddly job to paint.

.....hope I'm not too late. %)

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 14, 2017, 08:53:33 pm
Capt - sir!


Your experienced eye can spot things that I as a newbie missed, totally :embarrassed:
And in time, too. I'm painting the yellow insides of the bulwarks these days. Some time next week I would have stepped into that pifall without a second thought, I would've, surely!


Hande
(pm)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on October 14, 2017, 11:05:10 pm

Your experienced eye can spot things that I as a newbie missed, totally :embarrassed:

Hande
(pm)

Well now, it's a lot easier to spot someone else's mistakes oversights, than it is to spot your own. O0

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 20, 2017, 05:20:05 pm
My souvenir from Haydock Park Model Boat Convention, P110 (Noisy thing II) dry fitted.
As you can see, I'm a fan of Action electronics.
Power: P92
Dual fuse board P95


Now, please, will I cut the power (red wire) between P110 and P92, as my logic tells me to?
The receiver is powered from P92.


Grateful for advice! Dave around?

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 20, 2017, 05:23:06 pm
I clicked on the wrong button and the message went without the pic
here we go.


P110 power leads are still missing.
I think I found a pretty good speaker - cannibalised a radio  %)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: T33cno on October 20, 2017, 05:23:10 pm
Receiver should only have one feed
Don’t CUT the red wire but remove the pin from the connector and tape it back
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 20, 2017, 05:33:15 pm
Thank you, Andy!
I realise what the wisdom is behind your advice.
I'm  embarrassed  to confess that I cut the ESC receiver power leads and taped them back...

btw,
The component boards and the receiver are all attached with velcro, for easy removal for maintenance.
That's why they don't sit straight - practical, not pretty 

Also, they are at different levels vertically, the receiver being on top, in order to minimise disturbance between them.


Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 20, 2017, 05:42:14 pm
Receiver should only have one feed
Don’t CUT the red wire but remove the pin from the connector and tape it back


The basis of my question is: does the P110 receiver power lead get its voltage from the P110 or from the ESC receiver power lead. As the ESC power lead is cut (sigh) there is no voltage there.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 20, 2017, 06:23:34 pm
Receiver should only have one feed
Don’t CUT the red wire but remove the pin from the connector and tape it back


erm... I tried by gently pulling. Should I help it from the pin-side? I have never done this before and I'm afraid I'm going to ruin the pin  :((
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: T33cno on October 20, 2017, 06:24:44 pm
A tiny finger of plastic needs lifting slightly to release the pin while pulling
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: T33cno on October 20, 2017, 06:28:05 pm
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-ctQgsGt/0/86850253/XL/E7D2A66F-A640-4C57-A895-0ED4B84F7368-XL.jpg)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 20, 2017, 06:45:50 pm
A tiny finger of plastic needs lifting slightly to release the pin while pulling


Got you!
Thank you, Andy!


I feel wiser a bit  :-)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on November 18, 2017, 10:14:01 pm
Minor progress after two business trips and household work...


Green bleeding out of the bulwark flood openings. I think I have the painting figured out concerning how the deck green is supposed to extend from under the bulwark.


The ramp beginning the bow fender had to be made from scratch. The fender stretch of the top edge of the hull is curved both ways, so sanding was tedious... There's the one glued in place (with PU), and the unfinished one for the other side.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Adrenaco on December 14, 2017, 10:49:56 am
I also just started a Smit Nederland build!


Thanks for your build log, lot's of heads ups and helpful info in here!


Keep up the good work!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on December 21, 2017, 09:29:27 pm
cheers, Adrenaco!
Sorry about the long pause - due to sickness.


I hope some of my solutions to the numerous setbacks will prove useful!


I really mess up too often 😔
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on December 21, 2017, 09:30:40 pm
I also just started a Smit Nederland build!




I’m looking forward to your postings 🤗
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: T33cno on December 24, 2017, 08:51:58 pm
Merry Christmas Hande  :-))  I hope you are well and up to some good  :-)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 03, 2018, 02:35:21 pm
After giving the matter some thought - about 16 months or so ...


...I finally decided to start installing the bulwark from stern forward. The long side stretches are going to go next. I figure the bow piece has some allowance should it need to be shortened. The ends of the side pieces have none whatsoever. The fairlead holes are right at each end of each piece.


I know this doesn't look impressive  {:-{


If only you knew what it means to me having gathered my courage and started installing the bulwark. I am not nearly as much afraid of the wheelhouse, or the anchor windlass, or the main towing winch, although I'm giving them some thought, too  ;)  ...


Happy new year, all of you!











Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 03, 2018, 03:20:30 pm

 :-) My "neddie" starts to look a little like a ship instead of a skeleton of one

Dry fitted the capping rail provided by Billing boats with the kit.
It behaves well, but seems a little out of scale, doesn't it?


The bulwark bends inwards - thank heaven it does so symmetrically at the center.
There's nothing I can do to fix that now. I wasn't able to spot it in the skeleton stage  {:-{



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: T33cno on January 03, 2018, 03:22:56 pm
Looking good to me  :-)) . I've had far more clamps on the go than that  {-) 
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on January 03, 2018, 11:21:26 pm
Baby steps Hande, as then you have prepared yourself mentally and physically rather than rushing in and stuff getting stuck on your eyelids or completly askew because those 16 months had not been spent planning!

She is coming along finely. I hope you are recovered now?
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 06, 2018, 09:35:34 pm
Thank you for your support and for your consideration, Ian!
Yes I’m more or less ok. I guess age doesn’t come alone (a Finnish proverb). The attack is over and vital organs are in good shape. -> Back to my man-cave  :} .


Continue working on the bulwark.


A setback: error in the bending of the bulwark (plywood). Noticed the problem after the paintwork.
Solution: hot air - gently. Alas, I was able to correct the curve, and the paint still seems to hold on.

Should I expect the (Vallejo acrylic) to fall off at a later stage?
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 18, 2018, 08:26:24 pm
A small step for a veteran Mayhemer (...cracking sounds...) - a giant leap for Hande ! :}


The bulwark in place all around.
First practice round of filling (Vallejo Plastic Putty).


Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 31, 2018, 04:15:02 pm
Filled and sanded - now ready for a new primer before painting.
I still think the capping looks too big  :((
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 05, 2018, 08:29:02 pm
I'm trying a different approach to capping the bulwark.


By the photographs of Smit Finland, the capping is a kind of pipe - round in cross section. It does not come over to the outside at all.


I may be able to sand this plywood version into the required round one, but a round capping would probably be better.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: RST on February 05, 2018, 09:26:09 pm
No offecnce but the original capping looks very cheap and kit like -not very prototypical considering your efforts so far.  Id say either apply the flat topping -which would have been shaped flat bar or cut plate in real life.  Leave it proud round the top or carefully cut back.  OR cut it back flush and apply something like Plastruct half-round strips of suitable diameter.   Thick cyanoacrilate works well to stick afer roughing the back up.  Fill any gaps with very thin cyano, squadron putty etc.

http://www.ema-models.co.uk/index.php/plastruct-fineline-styrene/half-round-rod.html
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 06, 2018, 05:32:42 am
Thanks, RST, for your support.
Plastruct looks interesting. Once again something new to me  :embarrassed: [size=78%]It being styrene, does it bend around the turns?[/size]


I will do some more research... there probably are half-round strips of rubber, as well...



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Brian60 on February 06, 2018, 10:35:43 am
Plastruct can be made to go around bends by warming it with a hairdryer on hottest setting, or if you have a soldering station with one of the hot air attachments that works also - but more care is needed, it gets hot quickly. Best way to achieve it is to have a former of your shape, pin one end of the plastruct to it and then apply the heat as you work the plastic around the form by hand. That way you can add more heat or move the heat source away quickly. DO NOT use a naked flame like a cigaretter lighter, it is way too hot.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 06, 2018, 03:35:52 pm
Plastruct can be made to go around bends by warming it with a hairdryer on hottest setting, or if you have a soldering station with one of the hot air attachments that works also - but more care is needed, it gets hot quickly. Best way to achieve it is to have a former of your shape, pin one end of the plastruct to it and then apply the heat as you work the plastic around the form by hand. That way you can add more heat or move the heat source away quickly. DO NOT use a naked flame like a cigaretter lighter, it is way too hot.


It’s so interesting that I will get some to learn to handle it.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 18, 2018, 01:42:47 pm
I got so frustrated by my painting with brush... >>:-(
I wanted to seal and varnish the sub-deck. I did it and redid it, and did it over again...
Each round was rewarded with so terrible brush stroke marks that I didn't even take pictures of the disaster.


What does one do?


...Something totally different  :embarrassed:
I left the varnish brush marks and started to mess with the main hawse bollard-thing (it probably has a proper term?)


My son (a Warhammer hobbyist) taught me the basics of dry brushing. With my newly gained basic understanding, I went ahead and spoiled the bollard-hawse guide.
I have a feeling that I overdid it - at least it looks like one in a bad need of maintenance...


You can laugh...   I had fun, too  {-)


epilogue:


I sanded the deck once more, took the rattle can and sprayed the deck with Tamiya satin varnish. It's OK, now.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 18, 2018, 01:49:04 pm
My subconscious thinking about the remaining supports of the bulwark had matured so as to make me go ahead and glue them in place.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: missyd on February 18, 2018, 02:31:47 pm
Very nice drybrush weathering .... !!!  :-))
You should do the same with the rest of the tug ....  ok2
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 18, 2018, 06:01:41 pm
Very nice drybrush weathering .... !!!  :-))
You should do the same with the rest of the tug ....  ok2


Thanks for the compliment! Nice to meet you, Danielle!


It did occur to me that once I start there'll be no end to the weathering.
Having spent two years so far. Well, I can sail the summers and weather the winters.


But first I have to finish up to a decent state...


My son already promised to help me reach the second grade  %)

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 18, 2018, 06:10:20 pm
I who does, what I can (as opposed to others that do what they want) am content with the smoothness of the line of the bulwark railing. After capping, it will do alright.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: T33cno on February 18, 2018, 06:23:36 pm
Admirable  :-))  see you managed it despite your fears  :-)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 18, 2018, 06:32:52 pm
Thank you, T33!
I have just afforded me a Kentish Ale and take a breath.
(we don't ge a lot of Birtish beers in Finland, but I like this one OK)


I will prepare the sauna and do the other side of the bulwark, while it heats up.


cheers!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 18, 2018, 08:43:31 pm
It is done!
 :-)


Right now, I feel nothing can come in my way.
The rest is going to be like dancing on silk (mixed metaphor from Finnish)





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: T33cno on February 18, 2018, 08:45:21 pm
Every right to be proud! great job  :-)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 18, 2018, 08:50:25 pm
Thanks, Andy!
I wouldn't have come this far if it wasn't for all of you Mayhemmers!
Hande

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: T33cno on February 18, 2018, 08:55:04 pm
Thanks, Andy!
I wouldn't have come this far if it wasn't for all of you Mayhemmers!
Hande


Maybe but you knew what you wanted to achieve and came through in style  :-))  keep it up.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 20, 2018, 10:49:09 pm
I can't help it, but I see little figurines in these bulwark bollards, lol.


ready for painting.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 06, 2018, 02:59:27 pm
Yellow on the under side.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 06, 2018, 03:01:31 pm
and the pic...
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 06, 2018, 03:09:31 pm
If someone remembers, I planned to disguise the attatchment screws as barrels.
Here they are. To break the symmetry, I will place an additional barrel near one or the other.


As a bonus in the set that I got, there were these buckets - cute  :D


The scale is 1:35, so a little small for the 1:33 model. I guess the error in size will go unnoticed, however.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Smyster on March 06, 2018, 06:28:12 pm
Hande


What a great build and love the attention to detail, like the idea with the barrels to hold the deck down going to look at something similar for my Neddy, 22 months what patience cant wait to see it when it is finished, some great tips for when I do another build.
Keep up the good work



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on March 06, 2018, 08:51:20 pm
She's coming on a treat Hande - great idea with the barrels as well, along with the odd bit of gear they should look the business. :-)

One point though - have a think about how to give the appearance that the barrels are lashed (tied) down. ok2

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 07, 2018, 01:53:50 pm
Thanks, Smyster. At times, I take a break and do something silly, to keep spirits high  :-)  It's progressing so slowly...


Yes, Capt! That's a good hint!. I will have a problem, though, since the barrels are at the back corner of the sub-deck.
There's something to think about. I have seen a model, with barrels standing up on the deck - lashing ignored.
May be I can have an _actual_ (still simulated) lashing belt across the gap that I would attach, when the deck is closed.


Thanks again, fellows!

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on March 07, 2018, 10:21:54 pm
Hande, I'm having second thoughts on those lashings...

how about just leaving the barrels as they are and if any comments made about them being loose on deck just say "yea, I know, but one of the crew has just gone below to fetch the lashings"  O0 {-)

Regards,

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 09, 2018, 02:18:28 pm
 {-) {-)


That's brilliant!




"yea, I know - one of the crew members just went down below to get the painting gear for the inside of the bulwark."


or,


"yea, I know - one of the crew members just went down below to find something to get the boat back to the shore."





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 02, 2018, 10:09:12 pm
The bulwark keeps killing me.
I had decided to paint the supports before fitting.
Logically (!?!), I also painted the insides of the bulwarks before installation - leaving naked space for glueing the supports to it. These spaces were made a lot wider than the thikness of the supports, as I saw difficulty in making the supports match any positions I could ever have marked and masked on the inside of the bulwark. That was the clever thinking in my bulwark project. All the rest has been a mess.


Despite my efforts, the supports are not straight, they meet the bulwark quite poorly leaving gaps here-there. Filling the gaps has been a real pain and slowed down the painting  >>:-(


The idea in the first place was to avoid the difficult masking that would be necessary, if I would have chosen to paint the bulwarks after installation. Did I avoid it? - No  >>:-(


I ended up making plenty of corrections and filling the extra unpainted spaces around each bulwark support. The result was so ugly that I then had to do the masking (that I wanted to avoid) and repaint all of the inside of the bulwark. So far, I have only finished the bow (see pic).


And yes - I messed up with the masking...


So - I have maximised the effort and the number of complications... and ended up in a bad mood  {:-{


Now fellas - let this be a lesson for you  :police:


Next time - I think I will not paint the supports and the bulwark off the build in advance. The masking is difficult, but I guess it will be less tedious than what I've been through here.


Is there "the right way" to install the bulwark?


The Billings design is such that the supports have notches that go into holes on the deck. The joint is strong in theory, but If one would fit the supports first - as proposed by Billings - it is very likely that the bulwark would not find the supports in a way that would make a smooth line of the bulwark edge, but rather make it curve in random waves.


With supports without the notches ( and no holes in the deck ) it would be far easier to fit the suppports after the bulwark - as I have seen some other builders do with their models.


[size=78%] [/size]

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 02, 2018, 10:16:20 pm
Wanting to raise the spirits, I turned my attention to the Winch #75 (main hawse winch).
No surprises there.
Billings offers a terrible block of balsa for the gearbox body. I binned it and made a new one by stacking three pieces of plywood.
I have sorted out the makings of the winch, although Billings doesn't show it from behind and one aspect remains unexplained altogether. Detective work on the Internet brought me the answer.  I will show it, when I get to it. Difficult to explain. It's some strange markings in the plan next to the gearbox towards the hawse reel.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on April 02, 2018, 10:21:27 pm

1:35th/32nd as with 1:48th are good scales for all sorts of figures and fittings from the military modelling world as you are finding.


It is a shame you have to do bulwarks. Be like the navy and just have railings!!!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 02, 2018, 10:35:08 pm
That is true, Ballastanksian, with the figurines and fittings. I have the crew waiting in a box. Very active working postures, I might add. They are from a tank crew set.


I will have some railings to do on this one, too. I bet it is no goint to be easy... I have understood that jig is the answer to many of the coming questions. I have tried to get hold of some soldering paste (the stuff with the soldering medium metal in the paste). Somewhat difficult - at least not readily available in the regular hardware store, here.









Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 02, 2018, 05:05:35 pm
The main hawse winch #75 is coming together.
The hidden backside (as per plan) didn't cause any problems.
The enigmatic space between the hawse barrel and the gearbox is solved - I think.


The hawse barrel is shorter than the space provided (manufacturer's error), so I added O-rings for spacers.
I am not going to glue the barrel together in order to allow for replacement of the hawse rope (an unlikely possibility, I'm sure).


The cooling strips of the motor didn't come out pretty... Fortunately, the motor will be stuffed under the stairs for the most part.


I am already painting the parts. More pics to be expected, soon.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on May 02, 2018, 10:33:23 pm

What do you mean? Those cooling fins on the motor are very well placed. They look like part of the motor casing  :-)) As regards Solder paste, if your rails are thicker than .5mm, I would use standard solder and flux because the paste does seem to work better on very fine work such as etched brass or thin wall tube to thin rod.


The winch looks great.  :}
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 03, 2018, 04:38:38 pm
The picture's fuzzyness conveniently hides the mess I made with epoxy between the fins  :embarrassed:
Looking from a distance, and hidden under the stairs, the motor will be fine, I'm sure.


That's an important point about the soldering paste!
I have been thinking that it would be the ultimate solution to all soldering needs...


Thanks for that, ballastanksian  :-)

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: ballastanksian on May 07, 2018, 08:15:17 pm
Pah! A quick sanding will sort that out  :-))
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: derekwarner on May 07, 2018, 11:52:54 pm
Hande.....the winch build is looking good  :-))...you must remember to specify IP68 electrical standard for the wiring to the winch electric motor terminal box  O0

Devices backed by an international standard rating of IP68 are deemed fit enough to withstand dust, dirt and sand, and are resistant to submersion up to a maximum depth of 1.5m underwater for up to thirty minutes

Derek
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 08, 2018, 05:18:54 pm
Oh, a fellow electrical engineer... well, yea, I know - but I decided to go by IP2. It is a 1:33 scale model after all  %%
In that scale, the wires were very difficult to make out of plywood, you know...


Thanks for the encouragement, anyway. Always pleased to have any of those.


- - -


I find it strange that the winch is to be painted white. On the real tug - won't all dirt show rather unpleasantly starting from day one? I wonder if it's just a devious conspiracy to keep the crew busy, cleaning the white deck furniture?



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on August 19, 2018, 08:51:58 pm
I do work on my build :-)
I’m about finish with the anchor windlass and the main winch.
It’s incredibly slow only having an hour here and another there.
I promise you pic’s ad soon as I have put the winches together.


Here’s the point: I think I escaped from the bulwark to working on the winches. They don’t bring me closer to the first sailing, however, and now it’s fall very soon. Without the bulwark made water tight I just cannot sail. After all the mess I made, the deck is going to leak or suck water otherwise at almost every bulwark support joint, if I don’t fix all of the 70+ of them.


You may have noticed how much I have been fretting over the bulwark... If I can make myself go back to working on the bulwark I _may_ sail later in the autumn - before the pond freezes  {:-{
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on August 29, 2018, 07:30:18 pm
while waiting for the final coats to cure on the winches, I prepared the boat for some serious bulwark-fixing.If you know magic that helps me fill gaps in awkward spots - now would be an excellent time to disclose the secret.. :D  I am planning to use Vallejo plastic putty. It has to be thinned to make it go into the gaps, which means that several go's are required.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on September 09, 2018, 10:53:27 pm
Main towing winch and the anchor windlass.
The winch will be pinned by five pins.
The windlass will be glued onto the deck.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: derekwarner on September 10, 2018, 02:29:49 am
Hande...the winch detail looks  :-))...... the electric motor for the main towing winch is shown as a foot mounted motor with an exposed output shaft attached to the first stage reduction of the winch gearbox

In most marine winch builds, the motor is flange mounted to the gearbox, eliminating the exposure of the motor output shaft, the coupling and the input shaft to the gearbox etc

When I spoke of IP68 previously it was not intended as a joke, but for you to understand what real marine winches require in terms of water ingress resistance & hence electrical protection

You have used the flange mounted electric motor to the anchor gearbox winch  O0

Derek
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on September 10, 2018, 07:02:24 am
Thanks, Derek!
I actually am an electrical engineer and have some understanding about electrical protection. I admit, I thought you were joking  {-)


As for the choices about the design, I follow plans provided by Billing Boats. More importantly, I use parts of the kit. This is my first build of this scale. And I haven’t built anything for 40 years...  :((


Nonetheless, I keep your expert advice as precious resource for my upcoming projects - although I doubt whether I will gain self-confidence for a scratch build.


About the exposed output shaft (I was wondering where it was inside a pipe, or indeed exposed). Do you suppose, it would not be white, but rather some ”greasy” colour?


I’m grateful for your comments - thanks again!


Hande

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on September 10, 2018, 07:20:32 am
Btw, what is the function of the mysterious (to me, that is) two-pinned fork that does show in photos of the real towing winches, too? The kit includes one and I dropped it between the gearbox and the hawse drum as directed, but the pins don’t touch anything and there it hangs loose, bound to drop one day. I am thinking about attaching it permanently.

Could it be an emergency break? It seems, if one would pull it back, It would jam the cogwheel that sticks out from the gearbox.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on September 10, 2018, 07:28:58 am
Additional information:
My build ”boasts” (free) spinning hawse drum and anchor windlass axel.
For me, it was not trivial, anyway  :embarrassed:



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Taranis on December 06, 2018, 01:50:42 pm
Having just caught up with your progress. Looking good and as said lovely winches  :-)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 04, 2019, 09:33:28 am
Thank you, Taranis!
your message made me feel responsible... toward people that check out my blog in uncomprehensible numbers. I am sorry about the lack of progress! [size=78%]I have had domestic affairs to an extent that my build has suffered.[/size]
[/size]
I am still fixing the bulwark. Hard to keep up the spirit, when there seems to be no visible progress.
The file and other tools keep slipping and spoiling completed surfaces here-there - always at the few spots where I had already done a decent job. If this a hobby with ups and downs, this is one of the downs.


Hande
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 11, 2019, 06:03:34 pm
Sound generator test.
I use Action P110. I got the sound of double-diesels from Component shop, at the show last year. Works like charm!


The loudspeaker may well do. It is high quality - cannibalised from a radio that otherwise went defunct.


It will be important to introduce a speaker-box for a fuller sound, as shown here (the round bottle tube that happens to be just right size)
I wonder if the hull itself will act as a sufficiently closed speaker-box, or if the loudspeaker should be in a speaker-box inside the hull.


How do you install your loudspeakers?


cheers!

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Taranis on January 11, 2019, 06:38:20 pm
Happy new year Hande
I have not done this type of sound system but I believe the speaker sound is enhanced by fitting to a baffle board.
Personally I chose a cheap all in one sound box made for 4X4 RC vehicles so had no need for such a solution to speaker mounting.


under £60 Scania engine sound file


(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-zRvzjFS/0/43048278/X3/i-zRvzjFS-X3.jpg) (https://techno.smugmug.com/Shannon/Videos/n-bWzJrx/i-zRvzjFS/A)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Taranis on January 11, 2019, 06:46:29 pm
Same unit applied to low RPM tug. However there is some background noise from another sailor
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-4QF6Xvf/0/638ea788/X3/i-4QF6Xvf-X3.jpg)[/url

 (https://techno.smugmug.com/Shannon/Videos/n-bWzJrx/i-4QF6Xvf/A)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: RST on January 18, 2019, 10:12:29 pm
Hande if you want some oppinion on sounds I think the lifeboat hull, albeit on the workbench sounds great for that type of vessel.  Very like an old JJC sound board I have.  The video of the tug though I'm afraid for me at least demonstrates where something sounds impressive, but doesn't actually work in that application.  A tug of that size would probably never sound like that -it makes it sound like a toy to me.  Sorry!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 20, 2019, 10:29:13 am
I suppose that the hull provides for a speaker box in itself, although its size is out of proportion.
Adding another box (in a box, effectively) may muffle the sound and strip it from high frequencies?
The result may sound like the engine is buried under a pile of pillows.
On the other hand, in the air without any speaker box, low frequencies are lost and the sound is toy-like.
And then there is the effect of water. What does it do to the sound?
In the bench, the sound of the electric motors is too loud and disturbs the twin diesel sound of the sound generator.
Just wondering. Cannot test my theories for a while, as the build is not ready to be put together and in the water, yet.
Thanks for comments, everybody!

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 12, 2019, 06:09:12 pm
A long break, I know...
I hope to return to my build, soon!


Meanwhile, I spliced the main hawse rope. Not perfect again, but I'm learning to live with imperfections.
Blinking thin and soft hemp string that kept unraveling everywhere, as I tried to keep the loop in my sausages for fingers  >>:-(



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on August 07, 2019, 04:17:15 pm

A little progress. I have been working on the bulwark still: cleaning and painting. Got tired of that and turned to fendering.

Fendering is coming to place gradually.
As per instructions of Billing boats, I used long strip.
Sanded and primed before cutting to approximate length piece by piece.
As the fender pieces will go around the edge, the profile had to be adjusted - I overdid the provision for the turn, but the little room that will be left between pieces will fill by glue, I expect.


As the fender pieces are now, they look what they are - wood. As the original real tug was built in 1978, I wonder, if the fendering was actually made of logs/wood. In photographs, it looks like each fender piece is attached individually. Essentially, each piece would hang individually.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on August 07, 2019, 04:33:38 pm

Fendering is coming to place gradually.
As per instructions of Billing boats, I used long strip.
Sanded and primed before cutting to approximate length piece by piece.
As the fender pieces will go around the edge, the profile had to be adjusted - I overdid the provision for the turn, but the little room that will be left between pieces will fill by glue, I expect.



That's why I used an old toothed timing belt Hande. I had the same problem as you but I gave up after just 3 pieces of the wood strip  O0


Good to see you're still working on the model anyway.


Regards,
Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on August 14, 2019, 01:49:48 pm
It is done  :-)

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on August 14, 2019, 02:01:06 pm
Well done Hande, that really looks the business  O0  - progressing well now  :-))


Regards,
Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on August 14, 2019, 02:22:20 pm

Thank you, Ray - that's kind!Her-inside outside, home alone - what does man do  ok2
Have to turn back to finalising the bulwark, now.


Holidays over this week, I'm expecting the usual slow pace from here.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Tafelspitz on August 16, 2019, 12:54:33 pm
Neat!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Dreadnought on August 16, 2019, 08:18:22 pm
Nice work!  :-))
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on December 15, 2019, 08:13:47 pm
I'm still here.
Working on the bulwark, learning to use different kinds of putty.
Problem is with the little scratches. You think you have smoothed them out, but after sanding - there they are again! Wrong putty, wrong technique, wrong sander?
I never seem to get to painting...
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 06, 2020, 04:09:17 pm
RETIREMENT!
Am I going to spend more time on my build, or what!


I made the following findings while searching for some new fotos:


1. There is a distinctive difference between Smit Nederland and Smit Finland and other sisters. You can tell, it's Smit Nederland even if you cannot read the name. S.N. has a vertically extended bulwark in bow. This is why the Billings kit has that shape. Since I am building Smit Finland, I removed the extension. All well!


2. A further sister, Smit Ierland, is the same shape as Smit Finland. More importantly, she is presently sailing under the Finnish flag, with the name DELFI. My original plan has been to build the UREKA IV (ex- Smit Finland), because - well you know - she's originally Smit FINLAND. But as UREKA IV is misbehaving (not engaging the AIS for positioning) I am thinking about changing the plan and divert to DELFI.


3. DELFI has got a crane nowadays. I will self-educate myself on building cranes. Future will tell, if I ever learn  :}


Btw, Smit Japan is also in Finland, with the name LEONARDO. But she is not sister to Smit Nederland.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on March 06, 2020, 07:38:49 pm
RETIREMENT!
Am I going to spend more time on my build, or what!



Hello Hande, if only it were that simple. I retired at the back end of December with the same notion - and have yet to get anything done on the models.
All those little jobs have been piling up and, along with a bout of illness, there's just not been any time for tinkering in the workshop.
Anyway, it's good to know that you are getting back to your model now.


Regards,
Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 22, 2020, 01:57:55 pm
Marking the water line.
I decided to go by the scratching method. Didn't trust any marker or pencil.
We shall see, if I can fill the scratches in the end of the day...


I took a new blade and attached the cutter as shown. I figured, it is so sharp that I only need to touch slightly to make a mark on the paint.


In aftersight I see a number of mistakes in my thinking - can you?



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 22, 2020, 02:12:57 pm
I had troubles in the beginning. I started from the stern and proceeded towards the bow.
The other side the same from stern to bow. Coming from the other side my lines touched at the bow just  :D

The problem especially in the beginning (portside stern) is that the cutter is so long and operated from so far away from the surface that it really wasn't very robust at all and kept moving. Also the blade - although stiff to the finger, bent up and down and here-there made annoying curves along the hull surface. I couldn't see well into the underside of the stern and only afterward saw, what kind of mess I had made  >>:-( . The second try starboard went well, however. The correction was made by freehand trying to achieve symmetry with the starboard side line.

The lesson learnt:


Should you try to scratch - which I'm very much in doubt about now - scratch backward (the back of the blade first). That way the blade isn't bound to eat into the surface. Draw the blade instead of pushing. The tip is indeed so sharp that it makes a mark also backward.


My waterline is fine, but there is correction to be done stern-portside.

Btw - don't worry about the colours. I don't know why the red seems so ridiculous in some photos. The real thing is "dull".

(font problems, again...!)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Gudmund on March 22, 2020, 02:29:12 pm
My takeaway from your experience is that I should use some kind of marker (a really soft pencil I am thinking) that will leave a line given only the lightest of pressure.  Also, the contraption holding the marker needs to be quite substantial.


Thanks for the warning.


Gudmund
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: dougal99 on March 22, 2020, 04:53:43 pm
I have an Amati water line marker which utilises a pencil. I find even using this that the line can move especially around the stern area and when the pencil tip is at a distance from the clamp. I would only use a marking method that can be easily removed to allow for corrections.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Fred Ellis on March 22, 2020, 05:15:02 pm
Hi
I have the water line marker and also had the same problem with the pencil, so I fill the inhouse test tank placed the boat into the water down to the water line, then sprinkled some talcum powder onto the water, and when you lift the boat out you have your water ling marked for you, :-)) [size=78%]  [/size]
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 24, 2020, 08:25:09 am
You are good, Fred!
I have always thought that one must first have the waterline in place in order to get the ballast right.
But now that I think about it - since I know, where the waterline must go, i could just fill the hull with stuff to get the boat down to the waterline and then use your trick.


Something to remember for my next build...


Afterthought: Don’t do this with only the primer on !!! the hull must be properly painted. Remember the teachings about primer being porous.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 10, 2020, 09:58:08 am
Finally, after a year's deliberation, I installed the aft arc ( I wonder how it's called  {:-{  )
The middle support is hollow and goes through the deck. I'm going to drive a lamp through.
I need these moments of apparent success. It has been mostly setbacks this far...


The arc is made by laminating two strips, as per instructions. The result is quite sturdy, I must say.


The bulwark is moving forward and I am close to priming it.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 27, 2020, 09:21:31 am
Exciting news! New research required  8) :


After I changed my plan from UREKA XIV to DELFI, I realised that DELFI has a crane!
Anyone installed a crane on a Billings Smit Nederland?


In photos, e.g. (by DanoAberdeen) https://www.flickr.com/photos/-danophotography/43098681975
the crane seems to be installed right on top of the main bollard next to the towing winch.





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on August 04, 2020, 09:32:47 pm
Reporting on the bulwark:
masked, primed and painted.


It had to be done together with the above-waterline part of the sides, so this stage connects with my previous work on the waterline.



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on August 04, 2020, 09:43:32 pm
As I have posted above, I have decided to create a model of "DELFI", ex-"SMIT IERLAND".
As is customary, a new name is chosen by the new Finnish owners. The old name is painted over in black and the new one painted on top of the old one.


I wanted to simulate that.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on August 04, 2020, 09:52:43 pm
Well, that's what I call dedication to accuracy!
I can't recall ever seeing that done on a model boat  %% .
Good to see you're back at it Hande  :-))


Regards,
Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 21, 2020, 07:13:26 pm
Here, outside masking removed and hull markings attached plus a lot of correcting of the painting. The real DELFI's depth markings are given in tens of centimetres, but BECC only offers full metres. I decided to go with full metres.
I am relieved about the waterline scratches having disappeared (only visible if you are looking for them - and I am  :(( )[size=78%]. NOT a good idea to scratch - rf. my post from March 22.[/size]
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Taranis on October 21, 2020, 07:17:47 pm
Nice finish , there may be an unintentional pun there  :embarrassed:   :embarrassed: :-)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 21, 2020, 07:36:31 pm
Not that anyone remembers my early postings about building the rudders from 30 plus acrylic pieces each and using the wrong agent...
Well I got sponsorship for buying new ones from Billings - this time ready-made brass rudders.


Sponsors are recognized effectively but in a delicate manner by the initials of their first names  %)


NOT happy with Billings quality this time around again. I returned one and got a new one. Not precision machinery, but I hope they will do.
I messed up with painting - a lot:
- acid primer - that went well
- Tamiya spray dull red - had to do it over again after washing the rudders clean with alcohol
- mistake: acrylic varnish over the Tamiya paint - the varnish peeled off in a most awkward fashion.
- I tried to correct things and messed up some more
- finally when everything was looking decent, I sprayed the rudders with a Finnish equivalent of "Future" (From Pledge) - I hope the pieces are sealed up now forever!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 21, 2020, 07:38:22 pm
Nice finish , there may be an unintentional pun there  :embarrassed:   :embarrassed: :-)


Yes - we get a lot of that...  :}
Thanks for your kind comment!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 21, 2020, 07:49:19 pm
I have been determined to drive the lamps into the fittings (back, starboard, port - end eventually the mast).
Learned that no led is small enough, but tiny tungsten lamps are.
I use 16V lamps and tested with different voltages.
12V was too much both because the lamp shone too bright and because it became too hot.
9V was too bright, too.
I am going with 4 AA batteries, which means 5V. I am thinking about a 5V power source, too.
For red and green, I simply painted the lamps with transparent glass paint.
I wonder how long my contraption will shine...
The light isn't supposed to shine down, of course. I will fill the gap - somehow so that I can replace the lamp in some future.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 09, 2021, 09:25:05 pm
I am tidying up the painting around the bulwark - but honestly, I'm getting tired of the bulwark. It's a small miracle that I have got this far ... I let it rest for a while and turn my attention to the propellers' lubrication and aspects thereof. I had this advise a long time ago to use nylon/plastic spacers to keep water out of the shaft tubes as much as possible. I'm going to add an o-ring to close the space between the shaft and the nylon spacer, to make sure.


Can you see a problem with my solution?

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 09, 2021, 09:38:34 pm
To escape the haunting bulwark - I am also looking into the wheelhouse.
The bridge furniture was fun to work on, and primer and base painting went ok.
BUT oh dear, how difficult it was with the varnishing.
In a picture taken from afar, and in future inside the wheel house, where it's hard to see them anyways, I guess the end result is acceptable.
The setbacks that I couldn't correct after removing and repainting and revarnishing and resanding several times are:
- Not smooth surface (as I would like anyway)
- dust particles all over
- most of all stickiness of the surface. If I touch the pieces, there'll be fingerprints and other marks...


All through my build, I don't seem to get to grips with varnishing...
The "heater" (separate block behind the map table) came out fine, if it weren't for the stickiness.


I tried brushing the varnish, but I'm lousy with brush. So I used airbrush. At least I've had practise now for the future varnishing phases.


Btw - the rattle can is really, really, good for painting and varnishing. It's just that especially with small fittings, it's far too expensive, and waste and vapours inside the house in the winter time is tremendous!

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 13, 2021, 07:54:00 pm
Final touch to the wheel house furniture.
I have learned that in the real Smit Netherland and her sisters, behind the "seat" of the wheel house there is a stairway leading downstairs. I don't plan to simulate that one. But it solved my question about getting about between the lower structure and the wheel house, without getting wet. It makes a lot of sense.



Now I turn my attention to the wheel house itself.
I plan to make it detachable - so as to allow switching it to a videocam platform.
I have acquired a camera the size of a thumb (well a largish one anyway...)
I should get footage as if it were shot from the bridge
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: hama on January 13, 2021, 11:34:23 pm
Looking really good, she will be a beauty!
Hama
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 14, 2021, 02:55:21 pm
Tack skall du ha, Hama  :}  !
At this pace, I may be sailing the coming spring - about time, too 
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 24, 2021, 06:26:05 pm
Not that this expedites my achieving the goal of sailing this year... :embarrassed:
I made the camera platform.
The camera can be turned (on the shore) in any direction and the Sony came with a remote controller that enables remote
- shooting / not shooting
- video
- still images


The wrist-held remote can be seen in the first pic.


The weather-proof camera should not be too heavy - I hope - to disturb the center of weight of the overall ship. The camera is mostly plastic and the "tripod" is some light metal alloy.


I will be able to detach the wheelhouse and replace it with the camera platform and vv.
I wonder what kind of problems the implementation of this plan is going to present, when I get to finalising the wheelhouse. For one challenge - I need a clever solution for the turning radar antenna and wheelhouse lights, that I have wanted from the beginning.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: JimG on January 25, 2021, 11:52:01 am
You should try looking at the sports video cameras now available, they will give as good resolution and will be small enough to be mounted on a servo allowing you to rotate them when sailing. Some of those designed to be helmet mounted could even be fitted to the wheel house and are waterproof, many even have wifi onboard so can be watched using a smartphone while sailing.
Jim
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Martin (Admin) on January 25, 2021, 04:12:44 pm
 
Agreed, that camera does make it look very top heavy.....   {:-{
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 26, 2021, 09:12:57 am
I can see now that the view angle makes a trick on the eye and the camera looks giant  :o


The 11,9 megapixel HD camera is small enough to fit inside the wheelhouse - theoretically.
It has wifi for phone/pad control and viewing. Sony offers this for action movie makers.
The steady shot function should eliminate shaking.
There may be smaller ones, but I got this from a bankruptcy clearance sale.


Compared with the 10kg of the build, I wasn't really worried about top-heaviness, but I will take care - thank you, Martin and JimG (Nice to meet you, Jim!).


Here are the data:


camera alone 61grams
with the weather-proof casing 108grams
the stand alone 121grams


add the plywood platform sheet and four bolts
subtract the weight of the wheelhouse


Total maybe under 200grams?
I keep you updated once I have finished the wheelhouse.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Martin (Admin) on January 26, 2021, 10:12:29 am
 
Ooo! Nice Sony actioncam... very underestimated!    :-))
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: JimG on January 26, 2021, 12:22:08 pm
Looks much smaller from that view and more suited for its use although still at least twice the size of modern helmet cams. I have a GoPro which is waterproof and with WiFi although I do not use it on a helmet as it sticks out too far to the side, it is on a fixed mount on my bike. Looking at another make which is smaller and closer mounted for use on a helmet. Won't have your advantage of a sale however.(Nice meeting you Hande)
Jim
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 03, 2021, 07:44:20 pm
The wheel house turns out to be more challenging than I thought :((
The window frames are difficult - with the Billings 3X0,75 "obechi" strips.
I ran out of the supply of the Billings kit. So I used plasticard for the door frames.
Wow, what a difference! Smooth, clean, neat.
With plasticard I could have made the round corners of the windows, which really is a must, if you want to look genuine!
Now I'm thinking about tricks to simulate the round corners with the "obechi" strips.


Also, I noticed that the kit instructions totally neglect the split windows (two front windows and one on each side).
Simulating the "split" is an other thing to ponder... Maybe, if I stretch a strip of plasticard across - I guess that would do the job?





Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 07, 2021, 09:25:22 am
Getting there...
The pin that I use to press the putty against the corner is a telescope pointer that I have already cannibalised/repurposed for the back sailing light (reported above). The long obsolete pointers are having their renaissance these days  O0


There are 116 corners to make round and I didn't make it without setbacks:
- broken frame "obechis"
- broken-in-two of the backward top row of windows
The thing is - when you attempt to execute by a process of mass production, you will eventually become lazy/weary and not be careful with each and every pressing against the corner  {:-{
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 27, 2021, 08:37:51 pm
Wheelhouse approaching assembly. I realise that most of Mayhemmers assemble first and then paint. But I have learned as kid that I should first paint and then assemble - I don't even know where I got it, but it sticks. With the wheelhouse I thought no way I'm going to paint the inside, when it's assembled.


After a lot of sanding, painting, varnishing, resanding, repainting and revarnishing I got to a stage where I decided I cannot do better - and stopped.


I try to think of _everything_ in advance concerning windows. In which order should I paint, varnish, assemble the windows and assemble the whole wheelhouse..? I have got 1mm plexi glass and dark film - and a plan to first attach the dark film, then cut the windows as accurately as I can, glue them with canopy glue and then varnish, with the protective film on the outside of the windows. Then I only hope the protective film comes off nice and clean. Credits are due to Taranis, who is ahead of me (both in skill and time) with his windows [size=78%]Quote (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=post;quote=712608;topic=62247.575;last_msg=713252)[/size][/size][size=78%].[/size]


Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Taranis on February 27, 2021, 08:45:50 pm
The wood grain is well disguised, nice paint finish  :-)


I assemble pre painting but make everything so I can take it apart again. Most of my fittings and fixtures use no glue at all. I use machine screws pins or just a tight fit.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 27, 2021, 08:48:35 pm
And then to something completely different:


I have learned that the funnels have been modified on almost every smit Nederland sister ship. So is it with Delfi, too.
Instead of a flap on a round hole (which I presume is the end of the funnel) the end of the funnel is extended well out of the funnel housing. I decided to simulate the modified version.


I made these from scrap  %%


I know... But I really made them out of scrap copper pipe that I dug from snow in the back of the shed in the back of our garden.


These are slightly too large for the scale - I guess we will see, if I have to make them anew in case they really are TOO large.


Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 27, 2021, 08:53:07 pm
Further to something completely different:


I received the deck crane from Bauer, Germany. I'm eager to see how well it fits the scale.
And I need to figure out how it is installed onto the main towing bollard, as per Delfi.
I really need to visit Delfi, but she is presently in Norway.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 27, 2021, 09:01:02 pm
The wood grain is well disguised, nice paint finish  :-)



Good word from a master is always welcome! Thank you Andy. I have the disadvantage of being able look at my work really close. Every now and then, I try to step back a step or two in order to lose focus on the smallest detail. From a little distance, some aspects are not that bad at all %)


Myself, I'm happy about how my round corners are disguised. They were quite a challenge  <*<

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 04, 2021, 10:00:48 am
It's such a shame to paint the funnels over ...
But there's no realism whatsoever in glowing copper funnels, is there?

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: radiojoe on March 05, 2021, 10:59:29 am
Excellent work on the funnels  :-))


Joe.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 05, 2021, 04:41:17 pm
Thank you, Joe!
I’m glad to see that you pay attention to my long journey ;D
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 07, 2021, 09:00:35 pm
I knew the wheel house windows weren't going to be easy, but wow, how not-easy they are !!!
I'm following Andy's build with awe and picked up a recommendation by Mark T concerning canopy glue. It did save my build from a bitter catastrophy, I'm sure. - THANK YOU MARK!




Also, I'm having second thoughts about the shading.
The shading of the plexi glass went well after one practise round. But now that I have made four windows of the sides, I'm wondering whether all windows should be shaded or just some.


The windows look ok from far away, but don't put your glasses on, if you want to see them from a short distance!

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on March 07, 2021, 09:11:36 pm
I'm wondering whether all windows should be shaded or just some.


I guess it's really down to how much of the inside you would prefer to be seen Hande

anyway, nice work on those door and window frames :-))

Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Taranis on March 07, 2021, 09:13:20 pm
They look excellent Hande. You are braver than me! despite numerous pieces of advice I'm reluctant to put any form of sticky stuff anywhere near my glazing. I'm quite confident that mine will not fall out but if one or two do I will risk it with those alone. So far all 36 are as tight as a duck's ****  {-)


EDIT
Actually a guy on facebook overseas says that everyone he knows uses a clear setting wood glue and they apply it with a needle around the edge. Sounds good and it works for them.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 08, 2021, 08:43:29 pm
Quoting myself:


Also, I noticed that the kit instructions totally neglect the split windows (two front windows and one on each side).
Simulating the "split" is an other thing to ponder... Maybe, if I stretch a strip of plasticard across - I guess that would do the job?


Here's my take on the split window. Out of the six finished windows, this turned out best by far. It's a snug fit and clean. - If only I could repeat the performance with the remaining windows. I have concluded that setbacks and successes are greatly influenced by the builder's mood, or other state of mind. But it's difficult to know in advance, what your state is when you start.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 08, 2021, 08:52:23 pm
Actually a guy on facebook overseas says that everyone he knows uses a clear setting wood glue and they apply it with a needle around the edge. Sounds good and it works for them.


Based on some experience now - I think the canopy glue is exactly that: general purpose glue that sets clear. To call it "canopy glue" is a way to add premium to the price.


Otherwise - I don't suggest you use needles in conjunction with windows or other delicate surfaces. Out of old habbit, I cut very thin and sharp "needles" out of cocktail sticks/matches. No scratches when applying the glue or other stuff. And you can cut it to be flat-ended so you can remove the excess canopy glue without any marks on a delicate surface.

And that's where the "canopy glue" is terrific! If there is excess glue coming out the seams, you just rub it off gently (not with needles) - even when its cured.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on March 08, 2021, 09:33:20 pm
Hiya Hande, when I built my Neddy the 'split' glazing was already there in the supplied bits.
Anyway, you seem to have made a good job of it on yours.


The canopy glue I used is called 'Formula 560'. I bought it in 1998 and it's still working even now  :o


Anyway, keep it up Hande, you're doing fine.  :-))


Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 09, 2021, 08:10:56 pm
The sides being finished.
The secret behind the sliding doors - naturally the slides.
A fair simulation, as they don't show from any viewing angle.


The solution offered by Billings was far too complicated.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 09, 2021, 08:13:36 pm
The canopy glue I used is called 'Formula 560'. I bought it in 1998 and it's still working even now  :o

Ray.


I got exactly the same "Formula 560". Amazing it lasts forever!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 09, 2021, 08:32:21 pm
Does someone have an idea for a source of model shipborne weather station?
Along the lines of these.
My Delfi-in-the-real-world has a number of weather instruents on top of the wheel house.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 14, 2021, 11:48:06 pm
Started the assembly of the wheelhouse after the completion of first round of windows.


This is the order of assembly:
1. furniture except the main dashboard (I wonder what it's called really)
2. sides
3. back wall
4. front lower pieces - starboard and portside only
5. front lower pieces - middle
6. main dashboard to fit with the lower front pieces
7. front windows


The order is thought through many times and I hope it will work. The rationale is that first glue those parts that are straight (sides) and from there on advance toward the increasingly awkwardly angled pieces. Stage by stage the construction becomes more and more rigid as the components support each other and the whole becomes both self-supporting and straight. Namely all Billings plywood parts are bent in one direction or another. So I'm forcing them into the correct positions and using a strong glue (Gorilla). This is the plan anyway and I'm at stage 3. First pic stage 2, second one is the present state of affairs (stage 3).



I submit these into the contest of "Funniest glueing support contraptions"

(1)
The lead battery is needed to hold the floor straight, flat and still.
The huge lead bouillons press the sides against the floor.
(2)
The back wall is pressed against the sides and the floor - pressure has to be applied from three directions

Note the use of old telephone cards, wine bottle corks and tuned pegs.
You can also see the end of the bolt that fastens the detachable wheelhouse to the lower superstructure. (I have yet to figure out, how to install the (possible) lighting and (planned) radar wiring. Some multi-pole connector, I suppose)

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: BrianB6 on March 15, 2021, 12:48:20 am
Enginuity at it's best. O0
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: canabus on March 15, 2021, 06:44:18 am
Hi


One problem with the boat is that you require some sort of sealing system between the deck and the lift out section.


Because any water over the deck goes straight inside the hull !!!


As my boat was already built when I bought it, I have angle cut some door draft stopper foam (with sticky back) under the deck sides.


It looks like it will work, but the forward section will require a fill in piece which I am working out.


Canabus

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 15, 2021, 08:56:00 am
I have thought about this problem for months, Canabus.
There are three gaps that I need to seal
1. the sub-deck/main deck
2. lower superstructure/deck
3. wheel house/lower superstructure


I think I have found a liable solution: Loctite 5910


It is a special silicon that is meant for automotive motor parts sealing needs.
When you use it against the producer’s intention, it effectively becomes a liquid seal that, once cured, feels quite like rubber - not silicon. When I found this one, I didn’t think much about using a more common sanitary silicon the same way - maybe it works, too.


I have ”innovated” to find a solution for applying the silicon. I got it now for applying it along a straight edge (1st pic). But corners are still a problem (2nd pic). The self-made tool is shown in the 3rd pic. With practise, I may learn to run the applying tool around a corner - here masking is especially important.


CAUTION 1: remember masking (remove while the silicon still wet). I forgot it and caused a mess that can not be totally removed (it may show in the 2nd pic).


CAUTION 2: only use silicon product in your build after everything is painted and finished. Or be _extremely_ careful = brave. I forgot this rule only for the split second that it took to try the removable camera platform on the roof of the lower superstructure. Now I keep my fingers crossed when the time to paint the said roof comes! (the camera platform is the first one that I applied the ”liquid seal” under). Even if the seal-silicon had cured, there may be something left to make anything it touches unpaintable.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 15, 2021, 09:00:28 am
Something wrong with upload.
here’s the tool again
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 15, 2021, 09:02:03 am
AGAIN?!?
If you are interested in the tool, save it in you computer to see it in correct proportions
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 15, 2021, 09:17:09 am

I think I have found a liable solution: Loctite 5910

[size=78%] [/size]


VIABLE   - SORRY :embarrassed:
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: canabus on March 15, 2021, 11:28:54 am
Hi Hande


I have used bathroom [/size]silicon to make gaskets and using grease proof paper on the lid section so it does not stick.
[/size]
[/size]Trim over the edges after it cures.
[/size]
[/size]On the forward section I am filling in the deck under the lift off section back to the straight piece under the wheelhouse.
[/size]
[/size]Then adding the foam strip.
[/size]
[/size]I will add some pics when I have it done.
[/size]
[/size]Canabus
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 09, 2021, 06:20:15 pm
This is a live message.
I am working on the wheelhouse, the stacks and miscellaneous in parallel, and I thought I'll report on their progress, when I get some results. So, I will return to this blog some time soon enough.


The wheelhouse (without the top) and the stacks dry-fitted and the build looks a little like a vessel  :D

Sorry about the stretched pic (at least to me it shows horizontally stretched) - it's a bother.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 09, 2021, 06:42:12 pm
This is a resend from an entirely different computer.
Does it stretch?
Yes it does...
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 09, 2021, 06:51:34 pm
In the "misc" department, I put some reflector foil into the deck lights-to-come.

alas - not stretched.
Now I'm suspecting vertical pics become stretched and horizontally oriented - as is the case with this one - do not?
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 09, 2021, 07:04:03 pm
Encouraged by my theory-of-horizontal-pics-preferred,


I share the story of my life again:
I had made a decent job in painting the separate components of the wheel house,
but when I put them together, turned out the whole thing has to be repainted because of mismatching components and slipping tools etc...


Now, this looks scary - what if my masking doesn't hold!?  :((

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 09, 2021, 07:21:05 pm
Something wrong with upload.
here’s the tool again


This is to test my theory-of-horizontal-pics-preferred.
I forced the once vertical pic into the horizontal orientation.


VOILA! - theory confirmed at least for me.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 09, 2021, 08:00:01 pm
I found that Billings plan deviates from the real vessel in the mast:
In the plan, the lowest horizontal-light-stage (what is THAT called?) is too high up above the top of the stacks.


I want to figure out, if the whole mast is depicted too high.


Does anyone know, how high the mast should be? It's difficult to see from the pics.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Martin (Admin) on April 09, 2021, 09:13:47 pm
 
 The stern shot appears a little stretched but all the others seem OK.....  {:-{

Interestingly, if you click on your picture, it opens on another tab, and linking directly to that image, it posts OK???!



(https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=53761.0;attach=211259;image)


Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 10, 2021, 08:11:53 am
this pic, recycled by Martin (thank you very much!) has correct proportions.


I don't understand. The same issue is present in Mat_B's Smit Rotterdam thread, so it's not just me.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: RST on April 10, 2021, 08:14:18 am
It's a forum or compatability glitch. The same was happening to me a little while back and I've seen a few other where it happened also. The pics are usually fine when viewed individually in a new window / tab.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 10, 2021, 08:24:40 am
To be on the safe side, I try to post only horizontal pics from now on.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Martin (Admin) on April 10, 2021, 08:45:26 am
To be on the safe side, I try to post only horizontal pics from now on.

 Post as many pictures you want Hande, if they come out weird, just let me know and I'll fix them!   :-))
 
 

 
 
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 14, 2021, 07:52:20 am
I added a picture to my profile. Sometimes model building feels like tieing the Matthew Walker knot {:-{
Like the wheelhouse and the stacks - no straight angles!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 14, 2021, 08:00:27 am
I realize that the avatar picture doesn't show very well
Here's the larger copy
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 14, 2021, 08:02:05 am
the pic



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 15, 2021, 04:26:38 pm
To feel being on the right side of law for the above, I offer you these credentials and permission to use an excerpt from an amazing book that is placed into the public domain by the Gutenberg project:


Project Gutenberg Permissions, Licensing
“The Project Gutenberg eBook, Knots, Splices and Rope Work, by A. Hyatt Verrill”
“llustrated with 156 Original Cuts Showing How
Each Knot, Tie or Splice is Formed and Its
Appearance When Complete.”

"Matthew Walker"

Excerpt From
Knots, Splices and Rope Work
A. Hyatt Verrill

License policy of the Gutenberg project:
https://www.gutenberg.org/policy/permission.html (https://www.gutenberg.org/policy/permission.html)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 05, 2021, 11:24:06 am
This is how the stacks are coming up.


Inside, there're the shelves for the funneltops.
Sanding, masking and painting got me here. I couldn't resist painting the signal colours of the lower lids according to the side of the vessel they are at. The lids are painted with metal gun colour that makes them really look like sea water proof steel.


You may wonder about the colour scheme, but this is rather accurately true to present-day's DELFI.
I got their logo from the RaumaCata marketing and wonder now how to print two of them so that they stick on the stacks.


 
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 05, 2021, 11:46:29 am
This is how the mast is coming about - slowly, to be sure. But I'm surprised how well the horizontal branches are aligned after all the setbacks that are involved.


I use a hybrid method of soldering and Zap epoxy. Epoxy, whenever I feel that soldering would be too close to a previous soldered joint.


I think I got the mast too high after all - despite my conviction that in the plan the guidance was taking too high. The problem is at the bottom of the mast. So, there's no way to correct the situation without breaking what has already been accomplished.


I am working towards a construct whereby I can take the mast down backwards like in DELFI. Therefore, I made the stand one degree heavier than the weak-looking one that is suggested by Billings.


After quite a lot of work I realised that in my solution the horizontal bar that goes into the stacks - as per Billings plan - is not necessary at all. Then I rechecked the photos of DELFI and found out what the construct really is between the stacks. Now it's too late to change my solution to be true to reality and I'm left somewhere between reality and Billings imagination. After all the rod through the stacks adds to sturdiness.


The little horizontal slots are for aft deck light assemblies. The extra hole is for wiring of the lamps.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 05, 2021, 11:57:56 am
The wheel house is becoming a nightmare...


I was smart enough to be able to see, where a straight 90 degree angle is - and that made me turn the build upside-down to work from there.
But since there are no straight angles anywhere else and in particular between the various pieces, the inevitable was bound to happen. They didn't match-up in the end both front side and back side. Even the sizes of the pieces where wrong. Either they are wrong or - more likely - I have worked them too hard.


I guess, I have to stuff the gaps with a ton of putty... May be in some cases a strip of timber.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: kevin547n on May 05, 2021, 12:04:54 pm
very nice indeed
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 05, 2021, 12:09:02 pm
Thanks, Kevin!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 10, 2021, 08:03:58 pm
The mast  got this antenna
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 10, 2021, 08:07:07 pm
Some heavy lifting in the attempt to fix the mismatching pieces of the wheelhouse roof - lol %%
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 10, 2021, 08:14:41 pm
And this is about where I'm at.


Notice the bulwark cappings. They are strips of timber. When disguising the seams, I'm going to try to simulate welds - we'll see...


Now I thank myself for having made all those fittings in the course of my slow progress. It's only a matter of putting them in place, now.
In afterthought - I guess I have spent my time in making fittings in periods of non-decisiveness or sheer ignorance about how to proceed. My subconsience has worked on some phases sometimes for months - and then all of the sudden, I just _knew_ - for good and for worse  :embarrassed:  - what I'm going to do.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: jsdcs07 on May 12, 2021, 02:52:52 pm
WOW, great work!!! looking really good and a super finish...
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 13, 2021, 02:27:12 pm
Thank you!  :-)
Hande
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 27, 2021, 09:44:49 pm
I had the snap! {:-{
I didn't (wasn't skilled enough to) use pins for better attachment of the kort nozzels.
This is my punishment!  <*<
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 27, 2021, 09:57:40 pm
The mast is ready for painting. I liked working with brass tubes and wires.
Ignore the pins that the mast is hanging from (the picture is turned 90 degrees).


I needed to make the ...erm... pieces that the mast holding strings are connected to in the back of the wheel house and in the stacks.


I dived into my fishing gear and found a practical solution to the ends of same strings  %)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 27, 2021, 10:01:28 pm
This is now the implementation of the solution for a water tight deck as earlier advertised my me.
I am already building a small testing pool in our garden to make some trials and to get the ballast right.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 27, 2021, 10:07:54 pm
Final assembly of the propeller shafts, now that I finally got the stainless steel ones. This is the lubrication that I happened to have (intended for roller skates originally). I'm expecting to see some under pressure in the shaft tube as the lubricant diminishes. I can see this by observing the level of lubricant in the transparent hoses. The installation has standed now for two weeks and no grease has come out. I have nylon spacers-slash-seals at both ends the shaft tube.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: derekwarner on May 27, 2021, 11:54:09 pm
Hullo Hande.......


I realise the original vessel may have VPP's, but the fixed propellers shown here appear to have a very aggressive pitch  :o for a motor drive, or is it just a camera angle thing?


PS...excellent brass mast work in image 453  :-))


Derek
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 28, 2021, 09:09:21 am

Thank you, Derek - helping me again about propeller matters :-)
what do you mean by "for a motor drive"?

I am totally ignorant of the propeller theory. On the very first page of my blog (posts #5 through #15) in 2016 (!!) I learned alot already about kort propellers. You, too, contributed to me attaining a new level of knowledge - Thank you and the rest of the Mayhemmers O0
I was pleased then with myself about the aquisition of "real kort propellers". I didn't have - and still don't - understanding about the effect of the pitch. Well, other than realising that an aggressive pitch requires more power from the engine room, but leads to more thrust with lower revolutions.
I haven't seen pitch being an attribute of model propellers sold in webshops. So, I just chose "Kort propellers" with a given diametre.
What are the possible problems that appear with (too) aggressive pitch? My motors are brushed 540 (919D61) with a 6/1 gear delivering 2633rpm (geared) on 12V.
Motor alone delivers 154g torque and 21W at max efficiency and stall torque of the motor is 1000g. I don't know, what effect the gearbox has on these torque figures.

How worried should I be?



Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on June 20, 2021, 09:07:22 am
FIRST DIP  :}


https://youtu.be/_iINEg0Ue1U


Ballast only consists of the lead battery and is too much forward.
Steering seems to work, basically. It will get better after the ballasting.
No water came through the shaft tubes.
Am I relieved!!

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: derekwarner on June 20, 2021, 12:28:40 pm
Very maneuverable  :-))  ...are you as good at 3 pint turns in the car parks?  {-) .....with a greater water footprint you will have even better success


Derek
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on June 20, 2021, 12:54:42 pm
I edited out the bits, where I rammed into the borders of my ocean. I have a lot to learn in steering - especially, when the boat is coming toward me ...
I, too, expect maneuverability to improve, once I get her down to the waterline.


Next, I want to learn about scale speeds.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on September 02, 2021, 06:56:07 pm
I have found the amounts and positions of ballast.
First, added nails in plastic bags forward, mid-deck and aft until I got her where I wanted.
Then I weighed the bags and bought corresponding number and weight of nautical anodes. Total about three kg.
Fitted the anodes around the bottom of the hull in the right positions, and voilà, I got it right in the first iteration. I have some additional fishing weights for fine tuning after all deck fittings are installed.
The nail bag on top of the superstructure is a place holder - weight-wise - for the wheel house, stacks and the mast.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on September 02, 2021, 07:00:47 pm
I found a very practical chariot in a camping equipment store.
Front wheels turn so that the chariot turns on the spot. Hard bottom is removed and folded, when the whole is folded as per pics.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on October 09, 2021, 07:34:23 pm

VIDEOTest #3, with correct ballast.
Maneuverability is better than I ever dreamed of. Here tank steering.
Rudder steering in a pond this small doesn't tell me anything.
I need to practice much much more. But even this trial with my poor steering skills shows that I am going to make her turn on the spot.
The response to throttle is too abrupt to be realistic. I have to look into the settings of my Taranis radio.


https://youtu.be/R-JfN9IEBHY


Summer was all about domestic affairs and travel, then I broke my back. Now I will finally be able to carry on with my build.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on December 17, 2021, 07:56:19 pm
Been working on the little things.
https://youtu.be/DE4j1PGPAMo (https://youtu.be/DE4j1PGPAMo)

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on January 09, 2022, 10:18:53 am
A number of tyre fenders being made. It helps a lot the fact that my tyres are (at least mostly) of real rubber. Once you get the chain through, the rubber naturally squeezes back in to secure the chain in place.
I thank Ray (CaptPodge) for his question, whether I was going to use string or chain. Having not even thought about it beforehand, I realise that chain looks so much greater than string.
I got the chain from Italeri
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: RST on February 19, 2022, 12:54:59 am

I got exactly the same "Formula 560". Amazing it lasts forever!
Might I interject with some note of caution on this adhesive.  It might work great as canopy glue but having used it myself on a BOAT a couple of times I found it is NOT waterproof. It's not even splash-proof!  I bought this stuff on recommendations from forums but unless my bottle was wrong it is NOT waterproof -indeed I found it no different from "tacky glue" PVA on application anyway....

...When I disposed of it I splashed some water on it as a test and it pretty much turned back into white school glue after a few seconds!
It's pretty much school PVA glue in a fancy bottle in my experience!  You can see in the pic below just a few squirts of water and the 560 canopy glue all starts to go back white and back to being rtegular PVA again.  Use it with caution on a model boat!  I've no idea how to unpick some parts of a couple of models I have to get rid of this stuff!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 19, 2022, 02:44:09 pm
Thanks for the good point! I have used it way above the waterline, but sure thing, splashes are inevitable all over the ship. I have to check if there are some critical spots to cover.


Fortunately, it is very easy to remove with a blunt stick. I haven't tried to actually separate parts that are joined by the glue so I don't know how hard it sticks in the acual seam. Secondly, my application is rather as a kind of putty than a glue and I never expected it to hold under any kind of stress. The most important application is the attachment of the wheelhouse windows. If they come off, they are easy to fix.


Thanks again  O0

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 02, 2022, 01:07:33 pm
After months of hesitation I suddenly thought that I got it. Assembled the stacks-mast ass'y and all is fine.
I thank Oldiron for encouragement to pursue my wish to implement the mechanism by which the mast can be taken down for bridges - and of course for storage at home. To my astonisment, it actually works  :} .

edit:
Once again - deformation of a vertical picture - it's really frustrating...
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 02, 2022, 01:11:21 pm
corrected pic
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 15, 2022, 10:25:56 pm
Tyre fenders now installed.
I soldered the chain-ends together on the inside of the bulwark.
If there ever will be need, the tyres can be removed by just pulling the chain out of the squeeze of the rubber.


I have done everything to postpone the making of the handrailings. I guess, I simply have to start working on them. I know I have to make a jig. But my fear is that I cannot make it precise enough.


Also, can anyone, please, help me with the stanchions? The Billings stanchions are flat-ended, but the places they should go into are small round holes. I really don't want to spoil the work I have done so far by trying to make the holes flat to accomodate the flat ends of the stanchions!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: RST on April 15, 2022, 11:03:58 pm
Hi Hande,

Ref: stanchions yes square peg in round hole, I usually force mine into a much smaller hole so it's elongated as they push-in rather than drilled out so wide.  I think this is pretty normal.  I tried a few things with mixed success the past few years...

Mix a little enamel paint (and I mean a little and some experimentation required with good epoxy such as Araldite, don't do it with acrylic paint but can be done with powders) and experiment how small a "blob" you can get on the end.  Otherwise I usually make sure I use a paint I can touch-up aftterwards but I'm no fine-scale modeller such as you!

If it were me I'd be more interested how you can get the gold look off those chains on the fenders!  I've not found any fool-proof method out there yet apart from blackening before fitting.

It's a great model you have built.

Rich
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 16, 2022, 06:24:32 pm
Thanks for the comment and the flattering, Rich!  ;)
The chains will be stained. In the pic they look more golden than they really are, but still - too clean as they are.


For the stanchions, my latest idea is to solder a pin at the end of each one. After the effort I saw with the 72 bulwark knees, it doesn't seem too tedious.
One of these days, I will begin - once I have a workable design.


I confess that I couldn't follow your idea with paint and Araldite. Is the idea that the blob would act as the pin to go into the hole on the deck?


Hande













Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 12, 2022, 06:52:25 pm
The radar is now ready.
A tiny video here: https://youtube.com/shorts/_WJHiWdjqL4


Please, can anyone help me with the revolution scheme.
- clockwise or counterclockwise (when observed from above)?
- how many revolutions per minute?


The kit came with a regulator for tuning the rpm.


The whining noise is annoying! I know it's part of the game - but still...

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Taranis on May 12, 2022, 06:57:47 pm
Clockwise  :-))
RPM varies on the distance being tracked
Usually between 26-30 rpm


My scratch made radar for Shannon. https://youtu.be/f753umCEzSg
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 12, 2022, 07:21:28 pm
Thank you very many, Andy!
I thought it looked more right running clockwise
Yours is quieter than mine - well done!

Now I can finalise the tuning.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Taranis on May 12, 2022, 07:28:24 pm
For the stanchions
If it seems too forceful to waggle the blade of the stanchion into a round hole? I drill another small hole adjacent and then insert a scalpel to join them after which it should fit with ease. I never glue my stanchions in place, all my railing sets can be lifted out carefully and none have come out accidentally. Also all my brass work is soft soldered and contrary to the occasional protest from an outspoken member non have broken.


An example from my Stevn's Arctic
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Stevns-Arctic/i-wbVqn63/0/54c55d15/X2/DD0E6318-C9B1-4FFE-812C-AD2A7EF716AC-X2.jpg)


(https://photos.smugmug.com/Stevns-Arctic/i-r5P8Krf/0/5434c121/XL/B7D46828-3C0E-4577-BFAB-C6544023F495-XL.jpg)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Taranis on May 12, 2022, 08:14:35 pm
I also should have paid complements to your work so far  O0  great stuff  :-)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 13, 2022, 10:32:24 am
Thank you for your kind words, Andy!


I am smart enough to listen to the advice from more experienced model builders.
Your approach makes sense to me - I have tried to make everything removable as far as possible, too. My remaining concern is the wheelhouse. Should I make an attempt to make the roof removable in order to reach the wiring that I'm going to draw underneath it? I like to have maintenance hatches wherever I can.


And you just gave me the solution for the stanchions - now that you told about your method, it is just obvious ... funny how one doesn't come to think about such outside-the-box solutions  :embarrassed: [size=78%] [/size]
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on August 22, 2022, 05:30:16 pm
"Official" maiden voyage reported here:

https://youtu.be/D5ExScWWEQE

First sailing in a real-world pond. Location is in Espoo, Finland. A lot of detail is still missing - you can tell! Disappointed with the "Noisy thing" - it is noisy in the wrong way. In transportation, I broke the radar and scratched a chip off the stern-end fender (but that't what fenders are for - right?). First day, the battery was positioned too much towards starboard - fixed it for the second day. For some reason, although I thought I had charged the lead battery, it didn't deliver. Recharging made it allright, though. I don't know what happened there. I love the Taranis system and Open Tx - It allows me to program it in any way I desire.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on August 22, 2022, 07:46:03 pm
Hiya hande, it's good to see your boat has made it to the water. Your 2nd day was definitely the better of the two.
The points you mentioned in the write up were evident in your footage and I'm sure you can sort them out without too much trouble. Still some details to be added but you're definitely getting there now, so well done.  :-))


Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on August 26, 2022, 07:51:21 am
Thank you, Ray, for your support during these years. Now I have to maintain the momentum and finish the build. The railings still worry me, but I will prevail, I'm sure!
I'm afraid, I have to be very careful and dry the boat of water every time. My woodwork is poor due to inexperience and ignorance. I got a small cup of water inside - although it doesn't matter for the ABS plastic hull itself.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on August 26, 2022, 03:21:49 pm
Hiya Hande, I'm trying to think how any water got inside your hull.


I know you greased the prop tubes - has the grease deteriorated at all?
When going astern the water can be dragged up the tubes.


Are the anchor chain hawse pipes sealed?


Did you grease the rudder tubes?


Note : I'm fairly certain your main deck is well fitted against any water ingress...


Note 2: I found that in choppy weather there is a tendency for water to spill on deck through the front bullring and somehow finds its way below. To avoid this I have installed a 'plate' to the inside of that opening.


Hope this helps you a little...

Aye,
Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on September 19, 2022, 08:15:10 pm
Answers to Capt Podge:

I know you greased the prop tubes - has the grease deteriorated at all?
- No grease come out either end. I don't believe that's it.


Are the anchor chain hawse pipes sealed?
- Yes.

Did you grease the rudder tubes?
- no (that's something I missed. I just thought since the upper ends of the tubes are above water, water would not enter. And there is a silicon spacer down at the lower end. I will put a test paper around the tubes next time.)

Note : I'm fairly certain your main deck is well fitted against any water ingress...
- the deck itself is water-tight.
- Well, otherwise, hard to admit; I studied the edges of the removable deck and it is actually leaking on the other side over a length of about 10cm ever so slightly. Enough to allow the demonstrated amount of water to enter. - I think this is it. The second day, water was spilling through the forward bullrings and the side flood openings as well. Intermediate solution is tape. A sustainable solution is under pondering.

Hope this helps you a little...
- Thank you, Ray, like always! I'm preparing for my third voyage, hopefully later this week.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on September 19, 2022, 09:50:39 pm
Hiya Hande, good to hear you have pretty much eliminated all prior suggestions, other than the main deck, so we'll look forward to your next sailing day findings.


As you said earlier though, that amount of water from a day of bobbing about, hardly matters.
Real vessels usually have a bilge pump for this exact reason anyway.  O0 :-))


Aye,
Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on September 23, 2022, 07:28:17 pm
I sailed again today on a glass surface. Not a drop of water inside.
So, quite sure the water comes in overboard and through the gap on the deck.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on September 23, 2022, 07:47:55 pm
Well, that is good news and shows your efforts have been well rewarded - well done Hande!


Aye,
Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on September 29, 2022, 07:21:22 am
All good for now, except for the worst idea ever: making the rudder supporting fins out of wood  >>:-(
I think the thing is the hole that the rudder pin goes into. I tried to seal it with epoxy and grease on top of of it. Also, no matter how you paint on wood, with my skills anyway, it won't be watertight. To add to the poor idea, there's poor implementation: The fins are made by glueing together about a dozen (exagg.) little pieces. Thanks, Billings!


I must be prepared to manufacture new ones out of an aluminum rod that I found in the back of my hole.


I know now why in newer S.N. kits the support fins come in the fittings bag - whole 3D pieces made of plastic of sorts, if I understand it correctly.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on February 21, 2023, 03:13:15 pm
I returned to my shipyard and finally started to work on the railings.
So far, having begun with the (easier) top of the wheelhouse, I'm not desperate, yet.
Against conventional wisdom, I used the deck itself as a jig. I stood up the stanchions with the two lower wires on the deck and soldered the joints there. I'm pleased to see, how decent the result looks. By far not perfect, and I messed with the soldering iron and spoiled the paint a little bit - call it "weathering"  %%
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 01, 2023, 03:28:03 pm
So, now I'm somewhat experienced from this little railing ...


Progressive soldering from joint to joint presented the problem of earlier joints melting as I went over to the next one.
I solved it by wrapping an aluminum wire around each of the adjacent joints as heat drains. Worked well.
This problem is probably preempted by soldering the railings flat on a surface, as I have seen everybody else do. I will have to consider that after all. It's just that I am not convinced that I would get the positions of the stanchions right {:-{


The lower deck is going to be more complex with the staircases. Anyway, I'm not as terrified by the challenge as I was - for years already  :embarrassed:


I went by the directions of Billing boats. The top hand rail is 1,5mm and the two lower ones are 1mm thick. However, I agree with a note made by a Mayhemmer earlier in an other thread: The simulation should be made with far thinner wires to make the railings look right as per  scale!

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 17, 2023, 02:19:26 pm
I never thought I would make it this far!
Now, with some experience, I will tackle the most difficult section behind the stacks, down the staircase.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 17, 2023, 02:20:56 pm
Two more...
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 17, 2023, 02:22:25 pm
sorry... this is the third one
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Capt Podge on March 17, 2023, 02:33:17 pm
Hi there Hande, you're certainly getting the hang of it now, nothing wrong with your soldering that I can see. Your paint job looks really good as well  :-))


Cheers,
Ray.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 19, 2023, 08:03:11 am
thanks, Ray  :-)
Yet another victory over my scare of the more difficult challenges.
Not meaning that I've perfected my skill in any way, to be sure :embarrassed:
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 20, 2023, 12:27:52 pm
The final section I thought would be the most difficult, but so far so good.


See how I injured the paint below a stanchion. The reason is that the stanchion's seat on the deck gave in and the stanchion went down with my iron on it  >>:-(
More difficult than making the railings is correcting a ruined spot in the paintwork so that the result is at least satisfactory. I hate patchwork!


To summarise my method with the railings:
1. identify the pair of stanchions that are most central, or stable, or definitive for the section that I'm working on AND have a straight stretch between them. This makes the ass'y somewhat rigid already.
2. assemble - without soldering - the loose stanchions AND the middle wire between and around the above BEFORE any bends, and soldering around them.
3. first solder the lowest wire of the above, and then move forward between and around.
4. bend as I move forward
5. when the lowest wire is soldered proceed with the top handrail
6. last, solder the middle wire, which should be very easy


This is theory. Today I felt that the middle wire must be fixed in place before doing the awkward bends down the staircases that will follow.


Note that the two stanchions of point 1 are actually the two in the middle.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 22, 2023, 10:10:57 am
Progressing slowly. I realised that its good form not to work more than about two hours at a time. After that errors - er... setbacks - are bound to happen! For me, that is 

See - I started the patchwork on the damaged spot. I have attained an enormous revelation:
The Vallejo acrylic green has been difficult without great levelling properties until now. (The V varnishes are a horror story). For me. Well I have learned that the "flow improver" can be used as a retarder. WHAT a difference! Even with my poor brush painting skills. So far, I have had no success by thinning with a thinner. Cold water was better than thinner. But the secret of the enigmatic "flow improver" is unraveled now. For me. I know that you experienced Mayhemmers probably smile at me kindly...

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 22, 2023, 04:37:18 pm
more railings..!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 22, 2023, 04:39:05 pm
In case someone wonders;
this is how I keep the pieces put while soldering  %%
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 22, 2023, 04:58:10 pm

To summarise my method with the railings:
1. identify the pair of stanchions that are most central, or stable, or definitive for the section that I'm working on AND have a straight stretch between them. This makes the ass'y somewhat rigid already.
2. assemble - without soldering - the loose stanchions AND the middle wire between and around the above BEFORE any bends, and soldering around them.
3. first solder the lowest wire of the above, and then move forward between and around.
4. bend as I move forward
5. when the lowest wire is soldered proceed with the top handrail
6. last, solder the middle wire, which should be very easy



Oops! In case someone is interested in my method:
In stage one, the point is to solder the bottom wire at the mentioned two "seed stanchions".

In stage one, if the two "seed stanchions" are not adjacent to each other, MAKE SURE that you place the the stanchions that come in between on the wire before soldering. Those will be soldered in stage 3.

You see - in stage 2 it is impossible to include any stanchions between the "seed stanchions" after they are soldered.

Not that I expect anyone to imitate my method... You are excused  ;)
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 23, 2023, 02:02:00 pm
It is done save the little gates on the front side  :D
Next cleaning and painting.

Large scale is bliss in this work phase. How some of you manage this in 1:100 scale is beyond me! These marvelous model builders are in another league - I applaude to them!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on March 23, 2023, 07:54:47 pm
I made this little video to celebrate my "achievement"  %)
No music sorry.


https://youtu.be/R9k_s1GKlq4

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 13, 2023, 03:21:22 pm
Everyone of the 149 soldered joints - and every stretch between them, cleaned with files, the about 15 that broke in the process resoldered, and finally all of it washed and degreased.


You may notice the three "notches" that are soldered onto the hand rail for the installation of the fore and aft indication lights and one foreward working light


Ready to be painted with good timing as the snow is finally melting away and humidity is decreasing each day.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 27, 2023, 08:08:15 pm

If it were me I'd be more interested how you can get the gold look off those chains on the fenders!  I've not found any fool-proof method out there yet apart from blackening before fitting.

Rich


Rich, I stained the chains with matt black enamel. How did I do it? - Very carefully!  %%  You know - the hedgehogs ...

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on April 27, 2023, 08:17:45 pm
Answers to Capt Podge:

Note : I'm fairly certain your main deck is well fitted against any water ingress...
- the deck itself is water-tight.
- Well, otherwise, hard to admit; I studied the edges of the removable deck and it is actually leaking on the other side over a length of about 10cm ever so slightly. Enough to allow the demonstrated amount of water to enter. - I think this is it. The second day, water was spilling through the forward bullrings and the side flood openings as well. Intermediate solution is tape. A sustainable solution is under pondering.



Ray, I added more of my amazing black liquid sealant mass on the indicated stretch that leaked. We'll see, if it was enough to keep any spilled water outside... The removable sub-deck sits pretty on the main deck now, anyway.


Cheers, Hande
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 21, 2023, 05:42:39 pm
Ready for this year's sailing season.
There was a serious "lay-off" at the dock, pausing all work until the end of the year.

Summary of winter works after the new year:
- re-established the dockyard
- fixed the suspected leak under the edge of the sub-deck
- tuned the fender tyre chains (coloured them black)
- fixed the the port side anchor chain (that let the anchor hang loose)
- replaced the battery
- built the railings, save the ladder that would lead to the top of the wheelhouse
- repaired the main towing winch control panel and ass'y that was originally really very bad (not installed, yet, at the time that the photos were taken)
- repainted the top of the superstructure due to poor workmanship from an earlier attempt.
- drew some wiring for lighting, which will - hopefully - be realised during next winter's work period.
- purchased electronic switches for lighting
- wondered, why the ACTION Noisy thing is misbehaving. Disconnected it and let it stay dormant and wait for a replacement (with something that's not so insanely expensive ). Replaced the loudspeaker with equivalent mass of ballast.
- Found and implemented a tentative solution for the top of the wheelhouse to allow access to the wiring of the lights on the top - essentially inside the wheelhouse proper (for future work on lighting in general)
- Added a minuscule amount of grease in the propshaft tubes and admiring the solution that is basically leak-proof
- installed the mast support wires
... probably something else, too, that I've forgotten.


The railings took most, if not all, of my attention. The result is full of faults, painting went terribly wrong, had to resolder almost 20 joints that I broke. Even the end result still carries a loose joint that I broke in the final step of assembling the gates at the corners in front. I soldered every joint as far as possible. The little gates were challenging because of the short distance that heat could travel from previous solderings to the next one. Finally, I gave in to epoxy glue to install the gates at the ends of the forward section of the main railing. DELFI's railings are actually all-black. I do think black-and-white would be prettier, but this colouring is quite characteristical of DELFI. On the other hand, DELFI is really very black - quite sinister. In my colouring scheme, I imagine her at a state, where she was somewhere in the transition from gay colours of Smit into the practical blacks of Cata.


DELFI, in real life, has a very tall LA antenna, which is depicted at the top. I haven't checked how long it should be in scale.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 21, 2023, 05:49:03 pm
all electronics on a tray at the deck level.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 21, 2023, 05:51:04 pm
A dream being fulfilled after 46 years  :D
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: RichM on May 21, 2023, 07:12:20 pm

Ive got to say that does look lovely!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 21, 2023, 07:31:35 pm
I experimented with different curves to make the ship behave as realistically as I could.
Without any adjustments, every turn was far too abrupt - plus I was afraid that the rudders will break with such fast turns.
Below you can see the present curve (CV1: rdr). It shows, how extremely carefully the servo turns, and even at maximum displacement of the rudder stick, the turn is quite small. The effect is very natural, indeed. If needed, by a flick of a switch, I can override the moderate CV1 and go linear. Maybe in an emergency, or what not.


The CV2: thr is programmed in a similar way. My motors are very powerful and even with 6:1 gear ratio I got kangaroo jumps with a simple linear curve. So, here, too, in order to achieve natural acceleration, the curve had to be tamed. I don't even care to try, how fast the boat would actually go...


For tank steering, you can tell, the CV3: tnk is slightly more agressive, as I want to be able to turn on the spot without too much hesitation. I succeeded.


Programming an "open" system is a lot of fun. I am not restricted by the manufacturer's choice of settings.
I include here the mixes. The code is not very obvious (many Mayhemmers know it better than I, I suspect). In some cases I might say, it's counter-intuitive.

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 21, 2023, 07:34:20 pm
Ive got to say that does look lovely!


Thank you so much for _your_ support!
Hande
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: derekwarner on May 22, 2023, 12:27:42 am

Hande...superb build  :-))


Certain engineering functions in model making do not lend themselves to the rules of scale.........the elevation or train of gun mounts visually should be slower than the mathematical scale speed


The same could be considered for rudder function, not visually of the rudder/s themselves, but in the resultant speed [or smoothness] of turn of the model vessel


To overcome any overspeed of the rudder/s, an Action P96 speed controller [servomorph] can reduce the servo speed and also allow alignment of any required set points


https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p96-servomorph.html.html (https://www.componentshop.co.uk/p96-servomorph.html.html)

Derek
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 23, 2023, 03:22:18 pm
Thank you once more for your astute advice, Derek !
As you are one of the first to help me out, when I began the build in January, 2016, there is a nice arc of drama in having your message this close to the finale. This is precious, the Mayhem forum. Without such help, I would have gotten lost on page one already. Alas, we are now on page 21 - amazing!!


Thank you, Derek, for everything!


I thank everyone else, too, who offered advice, and at many instances, kind words of encouragement, without which I'm not at all certain that I would have survived  :D


I may still post photos or links to videos, but I don't expect them to offer anything drastically new, compared to what I have shared already. Maybe a video of how realistically (or not) DELFI navigates?


Cheers, everybody!
Hande, alias Hannu

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: hama on May 24, 2023, 06:56:09 pm
Congratulations and well done!! She looks amazing!
All the best.
Hama
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 24, 2023, 08:45:22 pm
Congratulations and well done!! She looks amazing!
All the best.
Hama


Tack skall du ha! Thank you, too!

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 25, 2023, 06:14:53 pm
Although it's the end of the build blog, it's not the end of the build, to be sure. Substantial amount of work still remains.
But one has to stop somewhere. This seemed appropriate to me.
There will be no innovation, or even problems.
Just setbacks, which has become a sticky flavour of my build.


I found a new pond near me. The scenery is beautiful, water is clean and clear, I can get near the waterfront by car. Perfect!


Here're the greetings from Siikajärvi, Espoo. Enjoy! (sorry about the quality - it's just phone video. You may get HD quality on Youtube's discretion):
https://youtu.be/-08P4XXRXWo

Cheers, Hande

Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 25, 2023, 08:59:52 pm
Photographs - much better than video!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on May 25, 2023, 09:00:45 pm
... cont'd
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: derekwarner on May 26, 2023, 01:34:39 am
So, Hande says..

'I found a new pond near me' :o  ......a pond is something that kids run & play in ....in OZ...from the video, we would term your pond as a reasonably sized lake


Carry onand enjoy your spare time motoring in your pond :-))  ....why not give us an update sometime in the future  O0


Derek
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: steve mahoney on May 26, 2023, 11:12:09 pm
That has turned out really well. Congratulations.
I've been following this build for a few years and your work is meticulous – I wish I was so precise.
I hope that you have another project in mind as I've learned a great deal form some of your building techniques.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on June 01, 2023, 03:49:58 pm
Don't you like photographs, you Mayhemmers! First lesson, when I started January, 2016:"Send us photographs - keep them coming!"

OK. This is a shooting session of my "candid camera". Genuine "weathering" from the previous sailing. The, oh-so-many flaws. Cover-ups of my sins with paint, with resin, with glue. Suboptimal solutions to get me out of jam. Etc.

But also, the wind shield wipers. The little gates in the railing. The bridge from the top of the wheelhouse to the bottom of the mast. Working lights over the aft deck (forward coming next winter). Indication lights starboard, portside and stern (forward coming next winter. The genuine Rauma Cata logos in the stacks. In general, I made it! Railings, bulwarks, stacks, winches, bollards, electrics, the overall and inside of the wheelhouse. All this has been very difficult for me. Have I thanked you all much enough for your support? I hope my gratitude has come out articulated enough, repeated enough! It comes from the bottom of my heart.
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on June 01, 2023, 03:52:00 pm
...more...
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on June 01, 2023, 03:54:48 pm
...more...
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on June 01, 2023, 03:56:18 pm
...finally!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Martin (Admin) on June 01, 2023, 10:50:13 pm
  Excellent!
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: tsenecal on June 02, 2023, 01:06:53 am
The tugboat looks fantastic.  it deserves a much better stand than a block of styrofoam  :}
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: hama on June 03, 2023, 09:38:53 pm
Superb!
Have you contacted the owners of the real boat? I bet they would be thrilled to see your work :-))
Hama
Title: Re: Coastal range ex-Smit-tug
Post by: Hande on June 04, 2023, 06:13:35 am
Thank you, Hama!


Yes, I have been in correspondence for some years now.
The vice president of Rauma Cata sent me the file with their logo, which I reproduced as stickers.
I have sent them pictures and a video of sailing. They are quite delighted, I can tell you!
I have the email address and the telephone number for the vessel itself.
These years, the problem has been, however, that DELFI is working in Norway almost constantly.
When she returns, I will visit the tug and get onboard to take some detailed photographs. Maybe get along on a little trip. I am very interested in how the deck crane is mounted on the side of the main hawse bollard. None of the pictures that I have found shed any light on that detail.


Thanks again!