Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Painting, Finishing and Care. => Topic started by: Hande on January 31, 2016, 09:32:04 am
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Did I mess up?
True to my signature and based on a tip, I tried house latex for filler on my ABS hull. Tamiya putty seemed too expensive and thick. I tried thinning the putty with hardware store lacquer thinner (white spirit) (I know, there's a Tamiya LT product, but costly), but the putty behaved weird - it went in to an awkward clumpy porridge.
The latex was easy to spread with a sponge-brush and with enough of elbow grease it was fairly easy to sand. It sticks well.
How does it work with Vallejo Model Color? I'm planning to apply a plastic primer before the Vallejo paint.
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I am puzzled by what house latex is.
Could you provide a little more info please.
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I was not sure about the English.
In Finland we typically use certain water-based paints ("latex") for e.g. walls of rooms indoors.
Hence "house latex".
I have read that the base substance of latex paints has something to do with rubber.
There is no rubbery feeling in the end result, though[size=78%].[/size]
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Hande
Can you post up a pic of the packaging and maybe I can do a better translation :)
I would suggest a coat of isolator spray before doing any painting just to be certain
Something like U-Pol 720 (Hopefully you can find a cheaper one in Finland as the U-Pol stuff is very expensive over there)
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Household Emulsion Paint ?
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Americans call 'Emulsion' paint 'Latex' paint, so perhaps the Finns call it that as well? Being waterbased, I would have thought it needs a water based thinner, or maybe even just water to thin it.
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I think he might be talking about 'painter's mate' - the acrylic gap-filler stuff in a tube used for decorating.
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Sorry folks. I was hospitalised for a little stretch...
It's a proper paint - not a filler. Comes in paint cans that only come with Finnish and Swedish text.
Dispersion paint - thinned with water. Indoors. Not really meant for plastics.
Reaches final cure in 4 weeks (!). This means that it's chemical properties against solvents etc. are reached 4 weeks.
It seems just perfect in terms of handling. I will follow essex2visuvesi's suggestion to use an isolation spray (primer). Would a paint primer not do? See the latter two pics.
By googling "Tikkurila REMONTTIMAALI 20", you can find the data sheet. (Good for you e2v if you read Finnish!)
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For the insulator, would a painting primer not do?
I will follow essex2visuvesi's suggestion to use an isolation spray (primer). Would a paint primer not do? See the latter two pics.
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About my MOTIP plastic primer.
Is there a chance that Vallejo acrylics don't stick well to it?
I have made a test: by sanding, the paint came off very easy, but I thought I was being too rough and used too small-numbered a grit.
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How long had the vellejo been left todry before sanding? I ask because my experience ith vellejo is that it has a flexible vinyl phase before fully curing when it can be a bit fragile.
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I let it cure for 2-3 days after the 3rd coat. I hadn't used varnish, yet, when I decided to fix some flaws on the surface. My mistake really was that I didn't let it wait long enough between coats. I think that's it...
How long had the vellejo been left todry before sanding? I ask because my experience ith vellejo is that it has a flexible vinyl phase before fully curing when it can be a bit fragile.