Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Steam => Topic started by: jpdenver on May 24, 2016, 09:55:54 pm
-
My winter project is finally finished.
Started with a bare-hull - The Lady Margaret - From Kingston Mouldings.
The rest is free-form, no plans, just-for-fun - to see if I could make something
that would work.
Here is the result:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=niZpXtbY53c&feature=em-upload_owner
Regards,
Jim Pope
Denver, Colorado USA
-
Hullo Jim......that's a nice looking steam build :-))
Thanks for the video, and the associated videos available about your steam plant
It looks to be a combination of Microcosm & PM Research......the engine appear to tick over at very low steam pressure, I recognise the M8 water pump from Jin, how does it perform against the boiler relief valve setting?
The servo chain drive appears to be for the boiler steam isolation valve....is this the case? & does it open OK if or after the closing? or how do you control the rate of set points?
Why not post some build images here, many would love to read about the construction etc
Derek
-
Derek,
You have a keen eye -
Boiler/Burner/Fuel Tank - Maccsteam - one of his last ones.
Condenser Tank - Custom
Boiler Supply Tanks - Custom
Engine - Microcosm (from Jin)
Feed Pump - Microcosm
Plumbing - PM Research
Fuel Regulator - Forrest Classics - Bix
Pulleys, Chain, Stanchions, Lamps, - RB Models - (Poland)
Prop - Roebesh (sorry if I spelled that wrong)
Driveshaft - Ball bearing - Custom made by Harbour Models
Hull - Custom Colored by Robin and Kingston Mouldings - Lady Margaret
Mahogany, Plywood, Decking - National Balsa
Cannon - Turned on my Lathe,
Cannon Carriage Wheels - Old Gears from Erector Set.
Servo-Morph controls for modified Sail Servo (Sprocket drive) - Action Electronics
The rest - Yankee Ingenuity
I'll put some pics together.
As to my feed valve arrangement, it is an experiment.
The Boiler holds 1 Liter. The water tanks are about 200ML each.
So when the water level in the sight glass reaches the bottom 1/3
I close off the by-pass valve, which forces the water over to the
clack valve on the boiler. Then I just let it run. I am still experimenting
with pressure levels vs burner time vs RPM's.
Thanks for reading.
Jim Pope
Denver, Colorado
USA
-
Yes Jim........I also term my build as multicultural {:-{
Scottish, French, German, Chinese, Japanese, English & a bit of OZ blood sweat, swearing & tears {-) ....but in this day and age the Internet it allows us to talk with and deal directly with the manufacturers so to pick & choose what appear to us as the eyes of the crop O0
I am sure you will have found, the vast majority of the members in this model steam manufacturing fraternity are unbelievably helpful both pre & post confirming your Credit Card numbers, however disappointingly, this is not 100%
Looking forward to seeing posted images of your Lady Margaret steam build.................. Derek
-
At the urging of a few folks -
Here is a movie of the complete build.
Some of the embedded movies within it are jerky,
but I think you can see how I did everything.
I started the build on New Years Day.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rhaJrqfzpoY&feature=em-upload_owner#action=share
Enjoy, I did.
Thanks for watching,
Jim Pope
Denver, Colorado USA
-
Thanks Jim :-))....11:46 minutes does show a lot of stories O0
Two questions...........
1. the balance tube 'on/below' interconnecting the two condensate de-oiler tanks ........did you perceive the necessity to equalise the fluid placement?
2. the temperature deflector plate between the gas tank & the burner body......is this a retro fit?......did you find a cool temperature transfer between the burner body & the gas tank hence requiring the deflector plate?
Happy steaming................. Derek
-
Derek,
A small misunderstanding - the Two horizontal Tanks are Boiler Feed Tanks (not Condensate).
Each holds 200ML, or 400ML total. The Chain Driven Valve - when open - offers a path of
"least resistance" and the water circulates. When the valve closes, the water is forced against the
feed-valve into the boiler.
Since the tanks are not pressurized, and the pipe lengths are not equal, I felt that the lower, forward
tubes (pass under the crankshaft right next to the pump), would just help keep everything level.
As to the copper "Heat Transfer Plate" - I wanted to keep the fuel tank warm (or at least warmer than without it)
to keep the pressure constant. This is because it gets cold from the expansion of the gas and the pressure drops.
No measurements to back this up, I just saw it someplace. Some people route the exhaust piping around the
fuel tank to accomplish the same thing.
Thanks for the attention to details.
Regards,
Jim Pope
Denver, Colorado USA
PS - Holiday Weekend - and Her first "Sea Trials" coming up.
-
BTW -
Her Namesakes -
-
Thanks Jim.....all makes sense as make up water tanks....& that's sure one team of hounds there...how many miles of exercise training do you get per day?...... {-)
Happy steaming on the holiday weekend :-))...... Derek
-
My Lady and I are heavily involved in the "Retired Greyhound Movement"
Our troupe actually just likes a nice sedate walk. And spends a lot of time
just like the bottom picture.
Anyway - I'll post the results of the Maiden Voyage Saturday Night.
Regards,
Jim
-
This is her first outing.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZGp8Vmkj5E&feature=em-upload_owner
It became immediately apparent that the weight of the boat required:
MORE STEAM! WE NEED MORE STEAM!!
So adjustments are necessary.
(That's why they call them "Trials")
But at least she did not sink.
More to come,
Thanks for reading,
Jim Pope
Denver, Colorado USA
-
Well Jim. %)
The Lady Margaret is not a speed boat & the prop looks to be designed for steam [with the aggressive rake or pitch ratio], but as a relatively inexpensive trial.......maintain the same pitch but increase the prop diameter .....the brand you have chosen is first class :-))
You appear to have ample clearance...... you could near double the diameter...if you were concerned with the prop diameter protruding below the lowest point of the keel, many full sized vintage steam boats incorporated a very generous U shaped piece between the rudder and the hull designed specifically for this purpose..............I see if I can find an image ...........Derek
-
I agree with Derek, use the largest steam prop that will comfortably fit in the space available. Big props also look beautiful.
-
An example Jim............................ Derek
-
Thanks for all the advice.
After two days of running - I have a few observations and the plans I am making to correct them.
1. Bigger Prop - Replace the 2" with a 3"
2. reduce load on engine - change the feed pump to a motor driven one - buy a motor - use existing pump
add a receiver channel switch. Change plumbing from re-circulating to direct feed.
Oh - and fix the gas leak - had a minor fire. No damage though.
So - thats why they call them "trials" -
More to come.
Thanks for reading,
Jim Pope
Denver, Colorado USA
-
Morning Jim....................why do not do incremental engineering revisions %)
1. ...increase the propeller size as you have mentioned
1a...test the new setup
Am thinking that the load presented by the installed waterpump is not that great........you could trial this by simply running the engine with the pump in bypass
Having said all of this, I had one of the same pumps installed as shaft driven, but the orientation needed to be rotated 90 degrees....not a good idea.....as the check valves in the pump must be orientated in the vertical plane O0
So I now have two of the same pumps 12V electrically driven/helical speed reducer to 70 RPM ........I have also added an outboard S/S sealed ball bearing miniature plumber block to each output shaft.......... Derek
-
I bought a 3" Prop, fits very well in the space.
I also picked up a 145 RPM gearhead motor.
Working on changing the orientation to vertical.
On a trip, so details next weekend.
Thanks for reading,
Jim Pope
Denver, CO USA
-
Jim,
Looks great! Impressive work. I'd test the speed with the new wheel like Derek suggested and then do the work if needed on the feedpump.
The great thing is she on the water! On on this side of the pond (and this side of the Mississippi)!
Good luck
Ken/Landlocked
-
During the last month I have had her on the water
6 times, and have made a number of changes.
1. 3" Prop - Great Scale Speed, nice bow wave.
2. Feed pump - could not produce enough pressure to overcome Boiler pressure. Pulled it from design.
3. Discovered that the fuel jet was bunged up, the burner was running erratically. Replaced it.
Results:
45 minutes on a single boiler fill, with fuel to spare.
Smooth running, good control.
I'll post a movie the next time she is on the water.
Regards,
Jim
Denver, CO
USA
-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LU2IdT6299Y
Had a nice day at the park.
Enjoy,
Jim
-
Looking good and going great Jim. Can you tell us about the crew - where they came from, how tall they are etc. Thanks, Ian.
-
The crew of both boats are approx 6" tall for the humans and 2 in tall for the canines.
The Borkum - The Ladye M - her crew was part of the accessories kit for the Borkum from Krick.
The Greyhounds Revenge - the Captain (modeled after my wife) is an action figure from ebay.
The hounds came from ebay finds.
The rest of the accessories are from doll house companies.
Thanks for reading/watching,
Regards,
Jim Pope