Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: tghsmith on August 30, 2016, 11:36:29 pm
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years back I built this boat in 1/24th with a set of plans and basic tools, have posted the work so far on the thread for this class of boat, decided to start a build thread of its own.. today the double planked 4ft hull was cut free of the building board..
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/RawxMo.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/plRawxMoj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/2A07ZR.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pl2A07ZRj)
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Wow, that woodwork looks impressive, I'll follow your build and hope to pick up some tips along the way. :-)
Regards,
Ray.
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You have made a lovely job of the hull. :-))
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Hi,
One of my favourite boats.
Hull looks great.
Gra2
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Hi I hope you don't mind have posted a shot of my Whaleback.
Same scale as your build.
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q776/gra28/ASRL131-06a_zps058e3430.jpg) (http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/gra28/media/ASRL131-06a_zps058e3430.jpg.html)
Graham
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That planking looks very neat. What timber and glue are you using?
Charlie
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thin 1/8th" ply framing, basswood 1/32nd" for double planking,hard balsa blocking, superglue and titebond III wood glue,, with the help of homemade half round scraper the stringers were reduced, blocking fared and other uneeded interior wood removed, after sanding a entire 2oz was removed but that means the first 2oz of epoxy are free weight.. plans are to make her as the 180 out of Gorleston in late war fit (well armed and well worn)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/BFwUpU.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/plBFwUpUj)
stringer reduction
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/q79XID.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poq79XIDj)
1/24th vs 1/16th..
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(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/vtlJGO.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/povtlJGOj)
hull interior has been cleaned up and epoxy coated.. starting on exterior hull and deck..
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deck with cabin and hatch openings framed, 1/32nd plywood sub-deck fitted and with the help of a few clamps, weights and other objects glued into place,, outer hull sanded and giving a penetrating coat of resin, after another round of sanding it will be glass and resin time..
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320x240q90/922/xftFeh.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmxftFehj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320x240q90/921/vxT6yS.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/plvxT6ySj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320x240q90/921/I3TX6s.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/plI3TX6sj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320x240q90/924/A6z4Z5.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poA6z4Z5j)
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hull sanded, mixed some epoxy filler paste and filled seems, divots and gaps.. after curing used a 5inch orbital sander to bring everything down to a point where the hull can be glassed, some final hand sanding is still needed.. (working big is fun) started on the deck planks until my spray can of superglue kicker emptied..
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320x240q90/923/quQPAU.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnquQPAUj)
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(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320x240q90/922/CT3CIF.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmCT3CIFj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320x240q90/922/JxYaqn.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmJxYaqnj)
planking done, penetrating coat of epoxy applied.. time to glass the hull and start main cabin construction..
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Lovely piece of work :-)) . It will almost be a shame to paint it.
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work started on the plug to make a mold for the cabin.. getting close to starting to sheet this section.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/922/P5DmhT.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmP5DmhTj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/922/DHavzA.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmDHavzAj)
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I would imagine you would need to keep the weight down on a high-speed craft like this. What is the target maximum all-up weight for the finished boat that you need to achieve? I'm loving all that diagonal planking, superb :-)
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Way back I spent several days dremeling out hull-cabin and hollowing out fittings on my 1/24th so it would ride correctly and get up on plane.. calculations for the new boat says 10-10.5 total.. with this concern the cabin will be a thin fiberglass balsa sandwich (after I get the mold made) the use of 3D printed parts for many of the fittings and crew should help keep the weight in check(20mm, Vickers machine guns, vent cowls,searchlight) brushless motors and new battery tech will help greatly..
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(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/922/uc6BZO.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmuc6BZOj)
sheeted the regions that curve in one plane with thin ply, the tougher curves were covered with narrow planks.. sanding, filling and more sanding needed to get the plug ready..
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Hi Tod info you asked for attached.
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q776/gra28/DSCF2200_zps41fhesvu.jpg) (http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/gra28/media/DSCF2200_zps41fhesvu.jpg.html)
Graham
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Motor is a Turnigy 3648 inrunner motor 1450kva.
I run on the centre shaft only, flank props are freewheeling.
Boat runs on a three cell lipo which gives more than enough power.
Runs just as well on a two cell lipo.
(http://i1358.photobucket.com/albums/q776/gra28/DSCF2199_zpsvviuxx4v.jpg) (http://s1358.photobucket.com/user/gra28/media/DSCF2199_zpsvviuxx4v.jpg.html)
Motor mount made from plywood faced with 1/8 inch alum as heat sink have also curved alum tube around front of motor which is watercooled.
Graham
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Hi fellows
I am using one of these 3648-1450kv motors on a 60Amp car ESC with a 40mm 2 blade prop.
Using a 5800mah 3S Lipo the speed of your boat will not be a problem.
I have run this motor with a 3 blade 37mm prop, but ,it only used more amps and did not go any faster.
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Hi made a mistake in my post it should say Outrunner motor not Inrunner.
Prop I use is 36mm three blade brass.
Graham
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Using a 2S the revs are about 10000, 3S the revs are about 16000 and 4S 21000.
This turns these motor from mild to beastly!!!
Yes I tested it on 4S, but, the solid ply 34" Sea Commander was not built for speedboat speeds!!!
I have removed the motor and installed 3548/4 1100kv which is still over speed.
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(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/320x240q90/921/nsvKrj.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/plnsvKrjj)
my current plan is 3 24-28mm 900-1200kv out-runners, 3 battery packs (to be decided) 3 ESC.. I'm in the planning stages of converting a transmitter to 3 slides with center detent for the trottles.. this was in the works already for my 1/96th scale USS Minneapolis (C-13) also the triple screw..
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/661/oItsxw.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/idoItsxwj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/673/PiKb3Z.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ipPiKb3Zj)
have to admit its fun working in a large scale for a bit..
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(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/Fy7W1l.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poFy7W1lj) filled,sanded and primed.. ready for more sanding ,filling and priming (but, I got to use my 5inch disc sander)
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The 28mm motors only run 3blade 30mm props, but 35mm motors will run 37mm props(eg 3639-750, 3648-850, 3639-1100).
Depends on what prop sizes you are planning for the boat.
This requires three ESCs and maybe a throttle/rudder mixer for the outer motors.
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the scale props are prop shop v1212 just a tad under 30mm and not a racing pitch, was looking at something in this range for motors
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18968__Turnigy_D2836_9_950KV_Brushless_Outrunner_Motor.html looking to get scale speed and trying to stay away from water cooling.. planning on the vent cowls to be functional and mounting a exhaust fan below the open engine room hatch(possible ducts to pull air through motors) the ESC's come with fans,,
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I love the look of your PT and the Dreadnought hulls! It always seems a shame to cover up such lovely timber colours with paint.
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(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/MJ2a6e.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poMJ2a6ej)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/58l5zj.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/po58l5zjj)
wheelhouse section of the plug completed and joined to the aft section, after more filling and sanding details that can be part of the mold will be added.. then the fiberglass mold can be laid up (this plug almost weighs more than the hull!!)
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back to work after some vacation time, while doing some reading (RN ASR book) discovered that the D-Day markings for boats was a 5 point white star in a blue circle field.. I know somewhere I have seen this on a whaleback but can't seem to find the photo.. looking for a link or help as this would fit in the time frame I'm working on..
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started getting the parts made that will be included in the mold plug..
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/katur0.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pokatur0j)
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started working on a master for the turrets, plans, drawings and photos were clashing.. the museum at Flixton came to the rescue and provided measurement and detailed photos (with measuring items)I produced a rough set of 1/16th scale drawings that should work.. now to turn a new corrected form..
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/922/38rZRs.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pm38rZRsj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/922/z4I0oG.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmz4I0oGj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/923/U4oNIM.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnU4oNIMj)
great thanks to the museum folks!!!!
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BOULTON PAUL DEFIANT Mk.I
hi there there were two versions of the gun turrets - one came from the above which was for the single gun and then when they modified it for the twin gun I believe the canopy came from either a Lancaster design or some heavy bomber. Christian will be the best one cos he is the one who advised me.
john
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I was wondering how you were going to create the Canopies, as they seemed the most tricky out of all the components. I will watch with interest these latest developments :-))
Charlie
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current "plan" 1/16th square brass soldered inner-frame, vacuum formed clear sections, outer frames and center sections photo-etched brass,(hoping with the first 2 layers together a pattern can be made for the outer frames ),.. yes this will be fiddley.. but its a fun break from 1/96th work!!!
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turret frame construction, decided to use 1/16th square aluminum stock (had to cut 1/16th plate to make it) filed half lap joints and JB weld (a filled epoxy) clear turret domes were vacuumed formed before grooving the plugs for the frame forming, now to start on the second one..
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/922/77HlTm.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pm77HlTmj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/zkGPvy.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/plzkGPvyj)
kind on crazy tedious work? yes but fun, as it's been said "you're way on the edge of the map" my reply "there be dragons there"
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/923/Qq7mEQ.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnQq7mEQj)
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Very impressive build.
Graham
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You could simplify things a bit as I can recall reading some years back that the glazing was often removed from the turrets as they had a tendency to steam up in use.
Jim
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Thats a big wow from me, nice work
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thanks for the comments, the build method for the frames seems to worked as I was able to get a second bird cage together that matches the first one.. learned a few things on number one , so the second's build went a little faster and smoother.. now to get back on the main cabin plug work ..
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/Z9eLSI.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/plZ9eLSIj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/k5yz1u.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pok5yz1uj)
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box from shapeways arrived today with the guns,
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/MqE21U.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poMqE21Uj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/tEU0FY.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pltEU0FYj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/dtL1J1.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/podtL1J1j)
will have to work on the shield for the 20mm and adjust the mounts for the turret guns,, fabbing up the deck stanchions will also be needed..
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one working inner turret frame completed, have to make a second now that I know I can..
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/923/EXlf3W.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnEXlf3Wj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/852vH3.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/po852vH3j)
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Oh WOW!!!!
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my first attempt at etching my own parts..
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/89pULi.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/po89pULij)
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turned some balsa stock for making the carley float, turned the start of a basswood plug for the DF loop.. the cabin plug was prepped, glassed up, hopefully there will be a good mold under that mess (the base layers were much neater)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/923/B2dlr5.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnB2dlr5j)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/923/6fCmPh.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pn6fCmPhj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/ZR8QjR.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/plZR8QjRj)
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spent some time working with balsa..
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/923/Oc6bOX.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnOc6bOXj)
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(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/922/J6BZln.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmJ6BZlnj)
a few minutes with the lathe
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I echo Colin's WOW! Because those turrets are gorgeous just on their own. I know of at least one modeller who gave up on making one of these because of the turret glazing so kudos to you for 'finkin' it all out. I imagine that being a larger scale, they are easier to develop.
I have only just seen this topic so will take much more note of your progress on this beauty.
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thanks everyone, the 1/16th scale makes some things easier, but is unforgiving on other details..the Carley float floor has been built, float and rings have been ribbon wrapped to simulate canvas..
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/5sC6yD.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pl5sC6yDj)
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sacrificed some clickster pencils to the cause as stock for navigation lights "glass" turning while wearing the opti-visor, took a bit to find the correct speed and use of lube/coolant (soapy water) may try to refine this a bit but have to find some more stock!!
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/6q8RQR.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pl6q8RQRj)
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machine some brass I-beam and solder some tube to it to make stock for the hand rail mounts, need around 28 of them.. shot some paint on the float parts so I can start rigging it up..
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/eg8J7q.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poeg8J7qj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/aNY7kg.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/plaNY7kgj)
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had to make some 20mm parts after messing up detailing the 3D printed parts.. unimat with the opti-visor work.. may be I need to work with some of my 1/96th scale stuff before the 1/16th drives me further crazy.. I thought it would be the other way around..
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/w7i5MS.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/plw7i5MSj)
after a little paint and blacken-it
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/922/b4WJm1.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmb4WJm1j)
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string or twine wasn't going to work for the detail in 1/16th.. found a good stateside supplier of scale rope. order arrived today.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/921/eGLMSn.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pleGLMSnj)
http://www.syrenshipmodelcompany.com/
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Wow, I've learnt some fantastic information on the gun turrets as for years we've tried to work out how to build a realistic looking versions for our Walton 65ft ASRL and we are going to use yours as a basis. :-))
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thanks, I tried to see if I took a photo during the glue-up stage, but must have been not sure if it would work so it wasn't documented.. lots of half-lap filed pieces of bent aluminum all held in place by about twenty small alligator clips and twist of small wire..(slow curing filled epoxy helped by giving time to make adjustments) on the second one the main arches were set first and let cure making fitting in all the other ribs the next day much easier.. finding a small 1/16th wide flat file and a 16th dremel burr sped the making of the lap joints..needle files to clean up everything after..
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Hi Nick, re Walton on Thames boat. I have the magazine article with bulkhead cross sections showing a flared hull, quite different to the MM plans. Also some detail regarding rudder tiller operation, that's from memory.
I mentioned this in another thread, perhaps you have this already. I think I got the information from the RAF museum at Hendon many years ago, I think I saw a Mr. Lion there.
regards Roy
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Hi Roy
Yes I remember that magazine, I think I've got one of the newer reprints.
The hull, and to be honest a lot of the fittings, isn't right but with a bit of research looking at the pictures of the original boat it can be built into a lovely boat. My Dad met a chap at Warwick in 2008 during the boat show who had built a fleet of 1/48 scale ASRL from original plans and he kindly sent a copy of the Walton plans to him showing the differences between the MM plans and the proper drawings.
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when you break off small parts and have to replace them..
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/923/5s8D2b.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pn5s8D2bj)
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added a few more tiny bits and some airbrush time
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/JIdrI4.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poJIdrI4j)
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had to turn to aluminum to make sturdy light 20mm shield brackets,, pin bolted to the holes in the printed mount, should hold up to the rigors of a HSL..
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/922/40w7DC.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pm40w7DCj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/lTHJlk.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/polTHJlkj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/922/FNMzjl.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmFNMzjlj)
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nuts,bolts and a little paint..(never mind the little cork)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/922/ycVfJA.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmycVfJAj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/923/SSgm9R.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnSSgm9Rj)
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Any progress on this project ? Hope you havnt given up.
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just got very busy with spring yard work, work work has been crazy.. and a cold that tried to move into my lungs.. hope to get some things done this week.. and want to get back on a few other projects in 1/96 and 1/48th
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/661/oItsxw.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/idoItsxwj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/673/NO7rN8.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ipNO7rN8j)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/703/imgp0858r.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/jjimgp0858rj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/838/imgp0856r.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/naimgp0856rj)
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beautifull work
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(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/Jr62mJ.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poJr62mJj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/924/WFgl24.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poWFgl24j)
spent any free time "updating" the column on my unimat to a adjustable milling unit,, did get the gun sight done,, weather here is starting to get hot and humid, so much for lots of yard work, time to get back to boat work in the air-conditioning..
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work on this project is restarting after the summer off, found some great color footage of boats in action and have made some more great contacts.. the boat footage is in the last third.. red inside the vent cowls, an added stern plate, better views of the added searchlight..
http://www.eafa.org.uk/catalogue/933
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not a dead project,, just have way to many things on the bench, a new milling machine for a live steam project.. but I had to do the glass work for a friends destroyer hull, seeing the whalebacks cabin mold was ready and the resin mess was happening.. the deck cabin was molded with balsa wood shaped and bent to between layers of glass clothe,, still needs filling and sanding,, but it seems to be very light and strong ..
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/TlZzsW.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poTlZzsWj)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/921/oF7rfO.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/ploF7rfOj)
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Beautiful Herringbone planking TGH :-)) .........
Couldn't help but recognize your workshop 1950's vintage Hospital bedside table....complete with the towel rail & pressed Lions Foot legs [on castors] O0
Derek
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have pulled the hull of the shelf and started work, marked the at rest waterline marks and ballested the hull in the test tank, I have 10 lbs to work with for the gear and fittings,, it will be just under 14 lbs total.. prepped the cabin mold and will lay-up hopefully a better cabin.. inspiration? the possible restoration of the last whaleback hull HSL 186,, and yes my model will be finished as the 186
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the messy day,, but we have the second attempt at a molded cabin,, thin balsa sandwiched between cloth and resin, this time all the raised sections have balsa inserts, trying to keep the total resin amounts as low as possible.. hoping to get a strong and light cabin..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/GbGGCo.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/d4o66c.jpg
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the new cabin came out great,, won't take much work to get ready for primer, had a little free time and the resin was still out so the hull bottom section was given a layer of cloth..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/922/HgF4wW.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/923/ny8GnE.jpg
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trimmed up the hull, cleaned and trimmed the cabin, cut the basic openings and gave it a quick coat of primer so things can get marked out
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turned a bottom edge on the turrets, bored and turned some pvc pipe to match, my spindle sander made quick work of getting the cabin holes to size..
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Looking good.
Graham
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spent some time getting the cabin fitting to the deck better, a curved deck with camber makes things interesting, I knew the oblong window placements on the plans weren't perfect so some time was spent with photos to make a correct template,, now I have to machine up a form to make the 15 frames.. couldn't resist a few photos with some more of the details set in place..
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awaiting in coming boxes,, stock for chine,rub and toe rails.. motors and ESC's. stuffing tubes, shafts and struts. Motor mounts.. extreme parcelanticapation!!!!
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machined up a steel form to make the oblong window frames,, sliced up some aluminum tube that magically was the correct size,, with some gentle forming with vice and hobby hammer I have a correct looking nice and light frame,, now to make about 15 more and start cutting more holes in the cabin..
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yesterday was proof of concept, today was production,, cut-form-file-sand and repeat..15 and some spares...
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a few boxes arrived, motors, shafts, struts and the assortment of strip wood.. the struts will get some work to make them a little more scale.. the shafts are extra long but will get the length adjusted to fit..
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today was the day to start putting holes in a perfectly good hull!!!
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struts and stuffing tubes all bedded into/onto the hull.. counter sunk strut holes will get through screws and nuts,, I have some BA thread ones in my stash that will fit, so this boat will get a UK part or two,, a dummy motor with a bore that matches the shafts will get turn to use as a alignment fixture to help in mounting the motors..
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Hi! I haven't seen propshaft struts/ supports like this before, where did you get them from?
Of course if they are US then doubt I can get them over here.....
Thanks
Nord.
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they are from http://www.mackproductsrc.com/index.htm I couldn't make them for the price and time,, if you look on an earlier photo the base and the strut were a bit longer, I trimmed and drilled (plus the counter sinks) to get looking more of what I needed.. the fact that they were 10 degrees worked out perfect.. should look better all cleaned up..
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made the motor spacing and alignment fixture,, the front length is the spacing for the coupler..just have to make mounts for the mounts..
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Hi all I have a HDML with twin shafts and a skeg with a bearing, making 3 bearings in all per prop shaft. It is in a wooden hull and the wood moves fractionally, certainly enough to frequently tighten up the shafts. I had to ease the centre bearing open a little with a tapered reamer, just a few thou but it solved the problem.
I use the stuffing grease mixture recommended by Ron Dean and it stays in place with virtually no load on the motor.
Regards
Roy
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the hull areas where the shafts and struts mount, besides the double diagonal planking have a third layer of plywood added. hopefully this will be a stabile mix and stop any movements. in my tool stash are 12" 1/8" and 3/16" drill bits, work great for adjusting minor alignment issues..
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Hi there
I must admit this is a problem that I myself have never come across, where prop shafts have moved, due to timber swelling. Yes, on real vessels, I have come across that before - but - never on models. I wonder if it is the material/wood that the model has been made of, or, has the timber been excessively wet. I have several models on which the prop shafts are quite long with more than 2 or 3 bearings per shaft. I have never had trouble with them.,
I have also built the Whaleback the same as the 1/16 and never found this to happen.
tghsmith I am really enjoying your build - I am waiting for you to make the ball turrets. :-) Once I have seen how you do that, I may contemplate rebuilding the Whaleback.
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rudders will be next week, all the brass stock has been laid out.. the turrets would be about finished but I can't find the box that has the vacuumed formed panels.. (I put in a safe place) a little more clean-up was done and a coat of final paint was sprayed.. the panel sections will get glued in place,, some heavy aluminum tape will be used for the cover strips that held them in place..(if you surface sand the tape it takes paint well) if I have to I'll form some new panels..
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made a quick form so that the rails could be steam bent close to the final curves, chines and rubs are in there now, tomorrow toe and fender..
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the preformed stock for the 4 different rails,, shouldn't have to fight to get them mounted..
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motor mounts mounted, time to trim the shafts and start on the steering gear..
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Hi a great build can you tell me what size motors you are using and are the cooling collars available.
Graham
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trying some 28mm 730kv outrunners..the mounts have water cooling if needed.. can go up to 36mm if needed.. thinking that a forced air system will be involved to help keep things cool in the hull..
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rudder day, the lathe and mill made it easy and even the silver solder flowed well today (new container of stay silver flux) all installed and waiting for the resin to set!!!
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dusted off my home-built vacuum form "machine" .. filled the turret form grooves with bondo and mounted them together on some plywood.. formed up enough dome material that should get the turrets covered..
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rub and chine rails fitted, planed and sanded to shape,, a light coat of primer to hi-light the flaws..
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Looking good.
Graham
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thanks all.. all the curved rails installed.. spindle sander and files to do the cut-aways, the final height was planed and sanded after install.. hopefully the turret bubbles will get glassed this weekend..
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one turret glazed, one to go,, the metal tape is working well for the outer strips,, will still need a little paint on them and the fins.
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stern exhaust tube day,, turned some pvc tube to make the ports,, a homemade hole-saw was about perfect and cut the holes nicely.. hopefully this should look a little better than just the rings glued to the stern in my 1/24th scale model.. batteries and rudder servo ordered so about all the parts are gathering..
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second turret bubble glazed this morning
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started grinding out the cabin window holes and installing the aluminum frames..
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Looking good.
Graham
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thanks , all the oval window frames installed, now to make the eyebrows for them.. some small hinges I ordered arrived, looks like the sickbay hatch will be functional.
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I'm picking up tips all the way with your daily progress, but I'm not able to replicate the domes much to my regret!
It's a lovely boat to look at and the quality you build into it is a pleasure to view.
Nordlys uk.
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Wow! Looking real good! :o
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rudders installed and linked, motors and couplers in place,, back into the test tank to check weights and placements (all the heavy stuff is in or on the hull) looks like there will be enough free weight to add a sound system..
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It looks like the cabin just sits on top of the deck with nothing to stop water getting in the deck opening. It might be a good idea to try and fit a coaming around the opening that the cabin sits over to try and catch any water on the deck.
Jim
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as I get the cabin and the hull internals completed the coming will be added (always planned on),, the cabin will also as per prototype get a lower edge lip that mates with the deck..
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I'm a member of several fb groups related to thses boats and service,, the info supplied has been great.. in the last three days these 2 gems showed up.. fuel vent, mast and mast tabernacle details sorted.. now to make them, much less guesswork invovled... :-) :-) :-)
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using the drawings and photos I have a plan for making a working mast tabernacle,, 2 milled sections silver soldered to a plate base.. having this a working fitting will help greatly in model transport, milling machine with the magnifying glass in the morning..
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milled and soldered together, made a spacer block to keep things correct during the soldering,, needs some drilling and needle file work but it should do the job..
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some more drilling, filing, milling and finishing.. lots of time for a small part!!! makes me want to get back on my 1/6th scale project and not even think about my 1/96th stuff.. calling it done for now, time to start turning the main section of the mast..
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Very interesting seeing your progress on these fittings. I can't imagine how fiddly it would be working on 1- 96th scale, I'd need to retool my entire workshop,
machinery, hand tools, drills etc. New glasses.
N.
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turned the main mast section today, more like filed and sanded as no turning tools were used, but managed to get one off the lathe on the first attempt..
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Stunning build, I’ve been following you on the forum and on Facebook and I’m stunned at your quality- I shall have to finish off my ASRL with turrets glazed in a similar fashion. Keep up the excellent work :-))
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Is this Facebook site available to view?
Thanks
N.
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whalebacks for ever is one group, along with several other RAF WWII marine groups,, these are all private groups but joining is easy, trying to keep the crap/spam out..
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did the deck to cabin coming today,, came out with a good snug fit, just have to design a hold down system..
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Hi, tgh!
Did you scale up the original 1.24th scale plans for this build.?
I have the same plan sheets as you but in the 1-24th scale.
N.
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yes just took them to copy place that has the large format printer.. can't remember the % of enlargement..
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I would guess at 50%? Enlargement
Thanks anyway,
N
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set the copier at 150%.. stock arrived for making the light lenses, tried using some colored pen tubes earlier but this should look and work much better..
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using the oval window former, the window eyebrows were made from some 1/32" brass angle stock..
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fine sanded the window frame areas down and CA'd the eyebrows in place..
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Is the brass angle 1/32nd thickness? And the angle size? Usually, for me, angle doesn't bend that easily but being that size perhaps it will!
N.
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angle flats are 1/32" the thickness is .010,, it did distort during bending.. the outer edge came out flat, a little bow to the inner top flat, perfect for a small drop of thin CA.. O0 happy accident..
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more cabin surface prep.. cut out more windows, started hatch detailing..
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front window frame today,, brass T stock, formed, mitered, milled and silver soldered.. will need a little clean-up but it does fit and should hold up a little better than plastic..
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That frame looks so good, i like window frames on models. Once again - what size T section please?
What did you mill?
Thanks for showing this build.
N.
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to get the T stock I had cut a 3/16ths x 3/32nds I beam with a jeweler's saw, all the joints were mitered or milled for best fit and contact.. the verticals were milled so the top surfaces were flush with the frame,, lots of work with opti-visor on,, this could all be done with a set of jeweler's/needle files..
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I have used OO gauge Nickle silver rail. The shape holds the "glass" in without glue. It can be polished and protected with varnish to keep the "chrome" look.
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cleaned up the frame, turned the DF cowl, set things in place to get a look at the progress..
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lazerette hatch made and opening was given it's coming, late war aft deck reinforcement added, deck flanges for vent cowls were a quick little lathe project,, getting to be just details now (lots of details)
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Brass angle 1-32nd didn't bend for me. Well, it did bend but all in the wrong places.
N.
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perhaps your angle stock was work hardened, maybe try annealing a section, I did keep mine pressed against the form while slowly bending.. did get some distortions.. you could a use section of rod the correct diameter as an arbor to bend against.. it was a fiddley bit of a job!!!
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With my limited supply of brass angle running out I decided to use 1.5mm dia rod instead. Effective , but perhaps not as good as angle though.
However, thanks for your suggestions.
N
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rigged my cheap little chop saw with a distance stop so 26+ sections could be cut, gang drilled them in groups of ten, sanded them to shape once they were glued in place.. added the top cabin weather shield base..
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Fabulous detail and build :-))
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installed the battery bays, hopefully some velcro strips will keep them in there places, started work on the cabin hatches,, tracking says the crew figures will arrive saturday .. hoping to get the rudder servo and ESC's mountings sorted friday..
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steering gear installed, gave the hull some color, the crew arrived today,, a couple will get some major surgery besides the RAF induction..
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made a start the plow type anchor this morning..
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with some half body swaps, the standing skipper is now a seated skipper, a seated drive is now a standing coxswain.. did a test fit and the seated driver figures will fit into the turrets to become gunners..
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some more "adjustments" and the start of the RAFacation...
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more work on the figures,, two figures selected to be gunners were relieved of their weight lifted sholders so the would fit in the turrets better..using a miliput like product started adding vest and other details..
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crew has been getting more of the correct gear, paints are here including an RAF uniform set,, started on the cleats and made a master for the mushroom vent tops so those can be resin cast.. maybe by monday the crew won't look so ghostly..
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gave the crew thier first coats of colors, more details, washes and clear flat to be added
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worked on detailing the wooden cleats today,, some more final sanding, the brass will get treated dark with the high points buffed,, the wood will get stained dark to get an oiled teak look.. (who ever thought that cleats would need detailing )
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Wow that's great detail :-)) :-)) :-))
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Excellent detail, sure highlights the difference between the RAF 63 and the Miami 63 ASR, great job and enjoy watching the progress.
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This is excellent work. Your figures bring the model to life and add realism.
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thanks all, having found some great photos of the anchor windlass type used means no "fudging" this time, a big thimble sized part. lathes and milling machine used, lots of needle file work, two silver solderings, more than 15 parts and still have to add some ridges with filled epoxy...
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Amazing work
Martin
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gave it some color... now back down the rabbit hole of details...
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made the stern fairleads today, the bow fairlead is next..
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the other end brass was started today, kind of a hard fitting to plan out, not many photos show it well, there most likely was more than one type.. but it will fit on a postage stamp, best guess, I think it will work,, still need to detail it a bit more..
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did some work on the little unimat lathe, staff bases and light lenses, started roughing out the the side light brass bases, most of the final purchases have arrived, radio,sound system, LEDs and R/C switches..
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still have to fit the lenses a little better, but the first test with the LEDS,, camera doesn't taking their photo, but they look nice in person, now to make the stern and forward white light staff.. have a bigger LED to light up the searchlight..
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stern nav light done today...
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forward light today,, pesky little "xxxxx" this was the second attempt... still needs a bit of file work and clean-up
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the light stick is pretty much done..
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Lovely work, great attention to detail.
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the 3 ESC's switches will start-up and shut-down the model, wanted to get to them with the cabin in place, added a seat for the mech/snipe in the engine room.. built a speaker pod/box and a easy removable mount for it..
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more of mounting the electronics, started the coxswain cabin ..
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main wiring and electronics sorted, did a test tank "thrust" test, she should run well.. nav lights all fitted out, started test fitting parts..
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I'm following your steady progress eagerly! Just need more photos mate! It's too good for one a day!
N
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here's a couple more... can't wait to start putting it all together..
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Is that the battery in the forward compartment, what Size are you going with?
Looks very compact in that compartment even with your 1 /16th size. Mine is 1/24th and thats where I've put my battery, Nimh though 8.4v.
Can't wait to see it all together!
Thanks.
N.
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that's the battery for the sound system.. look back one page, the 3 main batteries are located below the ESC's.. 5200 mah ...
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Yes of course! I didn't have room enough to locate them where you have. In fact my model sits rather low at the stern end anyway.
N.
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having built one in 1/24th way back in the nicad era I can understand about the weight issues, after the first test run I spent a great deal of time with a dremel removing all uneeded weight,, its nice to have the extra displacement in 1/16th..
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hatches, hinges, flanges, and hopefully the last coat of primer..
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working on more details, 20mm mounting pad, vent cowls, DF loop mounting,
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I keep looking at how good that brass windscreen frame is. Are you going to paint or leave as is?
The other additions and parts are a pleasure to see.
N
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it will get painted,, still have to make and fit the "glass" and clearviews+ supports..
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It's OK tgh, no rush. Just need to see your pictures of the finished Raf launch, when you get time.
It's been such a detailed build we've been watching with much interest.
Thanks,
Nord.
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work and other things have been crazy busy,, spent two days free time just getting the shop organized,, started back doing some work on my 1/6th scale 1890's live steam navy steam launch.. I'm going to try 2days worktime per model per week!!
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What a workshop space. Lovely and very envious!
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added some aluminum tube sections to tops I cast to make the needed 8 mushroom deck vents..
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Glad to see a fresh post and your progress still moving forward.
I have a friend with the large scale model that you have, so much more room to work in compared to my 1/24th, I dare not put too many fittings on mine
as it sits low enough in water already.
N