Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: imsinking on November 01, 2016, 12:20:54 pm
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After the success of my Fantasy Huntress . . .
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,51679.0.html
I was pondering on what to do with the old Swordsman kit I'd built in me youf . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/923/5DxHVK.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pn5DxHVKj)
Shelve it / bin it or what ? ?
Red 181 convinced me to modernise it properly , do the engineering first worry about paint later . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/7S0Yls.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/po7S0Ylsj)
SO . . onward , fancied a direct drive outrunner & a LIPO battery , strip out everything . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/q0Qa1i.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poq0Qa1ij)
Started cutting away the motor mount ? ? why is it starting to go SPONGY ? ? ? the wood was rotted out , ended up taking out the whole mount either side of the keel , the keel wasn't affected strangely . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/924/XLkGtV.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poXLkGtVj)
WOW ! ! needed a guide bar now for lining up the shaft . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/yv6czp.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmyv6czpj)
After working out clearances & angle a mounting plate screwed & araldited in . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/ipQByY.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmipQByYj)
In goes a new 4mm S/Stl shaft / Hobbyking 90amp ESC / 2814T 820Kv outrunner / Component Shop fuse block ( use this as a switch, there's no BEC's switch on the ESC) & a revised battery mount for the Turnigy 5000mAh 11.1v LIPO . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/jGZbaN.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmjGZbaNj)
Improvised cooling fan is a 30mm rotor from a laptop PSU , drilled out just smaller than the splines on the motor adaptor & pressed on . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/921/W7NwkJ.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/plW7NwkJj)
Last week was relaunch , it goes like a scalded cat ! ! even with sustained high speed running the motors barely warm so the fan must be doing something . . .I'm well pleased . . .
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/922/0TYhEm.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pm0TYhEmj)
Now for the repaint . . . I'll do that later %%
Bill
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Top tip here get some heat shrink to go over the huco coupling this will stop it exploding as they have a nasty habit and if it does at max rpm it will cause damage.If memory serves me right they are only rated to 5500rpm
Dave
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Top tip here get some heat shrink to go over the huco coupling this will stop it exploding as they have a nasty habit and if it does at max rpm it will cause damage.If memory serves me right they are only rated to 5500rpm
Dave
Agree with you on this , there's been a few grenaded themselves at our lake , I select ones that have pins that sticks up above the coupling, a lot of the poor copy's barely get to the outside dia AND are radiused, makes it easy for the coupling end to climb over , also the plastic used can be unsuitable . . . the old RABOESCH huco's were the best , cant get them now .
Just have to keep checking for elongation round the pins or cracking , need to have a visual to do this , not seen any clear shrink tube.
And, to pick your brains , what can I use to strip off 40 year old two pack epoxy paint , the black paint is flaky all over the place & needs removing altogether, any of the water soluble strippers any good ? Or is it a sanding job ?
Bill
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PM sent
Dave
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nice work Bill, best thing I have found for the stripping, fairy power spray, trust me on this, but a bit difficult to find, I think my last one was from Tesco at Bidston Moss
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nice set up by the way, I've used all of those, big tip here, those speed controllers are a bit over sensitive to low voltage, I recommend turning the low voltage off, and using a lipo alarm on the battery, set at 3.5v (remember I had these when at the lake with my Huntsman?)
I used two of those escs in my PCF build and was having a nightmare trying to sort out why it kept going slow, even after as few minutes, then resetting, it was the low voltage setting kicking in, as you accelerate the amps spike and the esc gets confused, just turn it off via the transmitter programming (all the beeps etc) but YOU MUST use a lipo alarm, dead cheap, plug into the balance lead on your lipo batt.
Now its experimenting with props, what shaft size is it? I have a load of m5 that you can try, I bet you end up with 46 to 50mm x prop!, remember, done all this myself! :-))
Paul
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Hobbyking 50 amp was more trouble than it was worth , the 90amp seems , up to now, to be more stable I run it on the 3.4 protection setting , I've run it down to this setting a couple of times now & it checks out on the battery charger / balance indicator , everything is stone cold so the set up is not taxing the motor / ESC / battery or the wiring .
I've plenty of props , I'm running 40x two blade , I think it's about right, the motors not labouring at top speed.
I've got Fairy power spray, didn't work on hammerite , I'll try it out on the black . . .
Stavros recommends Rustins Stripit , no one seems to have that round here , I'll look in to it .
Bill
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Tried the Fairy power spray (on an inconspicuous patch %% ) didn't work, left it on 24 hrs , hadn't taken the shine off . . . .
Looks like EBay for the Rustins . . .
Fancy the 11.1v LIPO in the Huntress, it's 250g lighter than the niHm 9.6v pack , stuff it right back & sideways next to the rudder servo & take out the 100g lead from the stern . . .350g ish all together , see what difference it'll make .
Bill
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You could try this product which claims to dissolve industrial 2 pack resins http://www.rust.co.uk/as10-resin-remover/p506326/ , a friend mentioned this to me but I have never tried it so cannot comment.
Trevor
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Hi Chaps
My mate bought an unfinished Swordsman in 1969 and has finally finished it.
3639-1100kv brushless motor, 60amp car ESC, Turnigy 3S 5800mah Lipo battery with a 40mm 2 blade prop.
Nice quick boat!!!
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Removable cabin roof I see , '69 eh . . . . it's older than MINE ! ! %%
Bill
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Hi mate
It had it's first run at Christmas time.
I am building one, but, I added 4 inches to the length, changed the cabin windows and added inbuilt spray rails.
Also added 3/4 inch to the bow to give it a more pointer bow.
Motor 3648-1450kv, 100 amp car ESC, twin 4S 5800mah Lipo's running 2blade 40mm prop.
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Hi Chaps
My mate bought an unfinished Swordsman in 1969 and has finally finished it.
3639-1100kv brushless motor, 60amp car ESC, Turnigy 3S 5800mah Lipo battery with a 40mm 2 blade prop.
Nice quick boat!!!
That's interesting as it looks very much like the plans I'm redrawing for the 1:12 Veron Swordsman 33.
Reason I say that is because it's got the raised area at the rear of the cockpit I was confused about on the drawings I've got i.e. why was it there when I understand that the cockpit floor should be level all the way back? So, I've altered my drawings so that it is level.
I'm also looking at modifying the drawings so that the cabin and cockpit lift off as one like the Huntsman models.
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Hi ChrisF
I bought a Sea Commander which has the whole cabin liftoff in one piece .
Great to work on!!
Replaced the drive line and up the motor from a 28mm 750kv to a 35mm D3548/4-1100kv motor, 60Amp car ESC,3S 5800mah Lipo battery, a solid coupler and a 2 blade 40mm prop.
Good turn of speed, a bit of a sleeper!!!
The club member who I bought it from was a bit surprised at the increase in speed!!!
I have the original Aerokits plan on PDF if you require.
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Thanks for the offer Canabus but I'm on a bit of a mission with regards to the various Fairey Marine boats which will keep me occupied for sometime! :-)
I know it's all been done before with them having been built many times over the years by many folks but it is all new to me and I've enjoyed finding out all about the various models' kits and plans and the history of Fairey Marine itself.
Chris
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The Fairey Huntsman / Swordsman / Huntress came in many guises as regard full length cockpit floor , I think they could be ordered with aft cabins etc etc , twin screw / single screw etc etc , petrol / diesel engines etc etc so any arrangement will have existed somewhere . . .
The Fairey owners website is well worth a look .
Bill
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Hi ChrisF
I am on my own mission to save old model boat plans!!!
Living at the other end of the world, paper plans from England with postage are a third the price of a kit with the plan!!!
I do not sell plans.
The Sea Commander was twice the price of the plan, but, half the price of the kit(with plan).
Crap motor, crap ESC, crap over size prop, no radio, with servo.
Added the crew and changed the seats.
Double 10mm magnets to hold down the whole cabin.
Two days and I had a good boat!!!
I believe Aerokits was first kit the Swordsman as a middle size boat to Sea Hornet, Sea Rover(yes I have the plans) to the larger Sea Queen( yes I have it to).
I have built the Sea Hornet with a 28mm 1900kv motor,3S Lipo and 2 blade 32mm prop(it goes!!!).
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Hi ChrisF
Dave M on the model boats mag forum website is the guru on Fairey's.
I think the Huntsman and Huntress had flared bows, the Swordsman did not!!!
Canabus(aka Harry Smith aka the Larrikin).
Dave's a good guy.
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The Fairey Huntsman / Swordsman / Huntress came in many guises as regard full length cockpit floor , I think they could be ordered with aft cabins etc etc , twin screw / single screw etc etc , petrol / diesel engines etc etc so any arrangement will have existed somewhere . . .
The Fairey owners website is well worth a look .
Bill
Thanks Bill. I've pretty much sussed (with help - see below) the various hull designs and cabin layouts but have never come across that longer aft deck (rather than the aft cabin) in any of the full sized boats.
In fact your model has it as well so I guess yours was built from a Veron kit or plans?
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Hi ChrisF
Dave M on the model boats mag forum website is the guru on Fairey's.
I think the Huntsman and Huntress had flared bows, the Swordsman did not!!!
Canabus(aka Harry Smith aka the Larrikin).
Dave's a good guy.
Yes, I've been in contact with Dave a few times, started via this forum, and have met him and his good lady.
His knowledge of the Fairey Marine boats has been invaluable and I'm very grateful of his help and advice with regards to the models.[/quote]
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Hey Chris, my Swordsman's an AEROKIT's version , & extra detailing from a MODEL MAKER plan by P Connolly , the back cabin turned out to be handy as the boat was I/C motored initially & the silencer was a monster , couldn't get the tuned pipes like now . . .
The Veron front cabin looks out of proportion to me when you check it against a real Fairey boat , the Aerokit's looks to be more accurate . . .. even more design variation perhaps ?
Bill
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Bill - my mistake, just looked at the drawings I'm working from and they are indeed Aerokit. I was getting confused with some other plans I've got!
I'd guessed that the increased aft deck was proabaly to facilitate IC engines that were more prevalent at the time the first kits were produced.
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Another mistake by me!
Whilst I'm pretty clear on the overall differences between the timber hulled boats i.e. hull shapes and full aft cockpits/aft cabins variations I've just been doing some more research on the Swordsman 33 and some did indeed have rear cabins, though not full height as per the Huntsman and Super Swordsman etc.which is why I got confused .
This is good news as I can build a version different to the other full open cockpit boats that I intend building. Also it will be easier to build the superstructure as one piece.
The bad news is that it's back to the drawing board again for the third time!
I'm enjoying it though and it has meant that I now understand how the models are designed and built rather than just seeing a myriad of confusing lines as when I first looked at some plans. I guess seasoned builders are probably wondering what I'm going on about as they find it pretty simple and straightforward.
Also just copying the plans and making alterations makes me realise just how much work the model designers have to put in to come up with a new model. Not only in producing the initial drawings but in resolving any build issues.
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Hmm , major leak in the port side skin to stringer joint, had to vee it out back to good wood and fill the joint with a sliver & glue , repaint & back in service , starting to show her age now . . . .
Bill <:(
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Gotta keep the old girl going!
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Gotta keep the old girl going!
Yes , it's a shame but CASCAMITE glue doesn't hang on for ever <:(
Bill
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Has Aerolite glue lasted longer than Cascamite?
We used that to build the frames of our PBK
canoes and I used it on my Bell Woodworking
kit of my GP14 built back in 57 and still sailing
I believe.
Ned
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Has Aerolite glue lasted longer than Cascamite?
We used that to build the frames of our PBK
canoes and I used it on my Bell Woodworking
kit of my GP14 built back in 57 and still sailing
I believe.
Ned
AEROLITE 301 ? that was for the WEALTHY O0 CASCAMITE for us neer do wells . . .
Bill
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{-) {-) {-)
Ned
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Getting near 2020 now, the boats in semi retirement until I get the paint done , black paint's falling off in chunks , when the spirit is willing I WILL do this <*< just need the urge to strike me . . .
Bill
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Well , lock down was the ideal time to repaint 'old faithful'
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/9LoQDg.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pn9LoQDgj)
Has been 'retired' for 12 months + the damage is extensive.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/LSxMuo.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poLSxMuoj)
Nothing worked on the old Humbrol two pack epoxy paint , sanding or Strypit remover barely took the shine off , final choice was an exacto chisel , upside down , to force the black paint from the undercoat . . . 2 hours a day for 3 months . . .
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/rnwP4D.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnrnwP4Dj)
Removing the paint exposed all the failed joints in the skins sprayrails and splits in the wood reattached with epoxy glue.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/oxG9bp.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnoxG9bpj)
Two good coats of Z Poxy finishing resin ( joy of joys NO SMELL ) first coat just disappeared , second coat sanded down looked good , only problem I found was the resin ran like water when it was curing .
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/0H9HUn.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/po0H9HUnj)
Three coats etching primer followed with three coats Ford Diamond white , left it a week to harden off , i'd removed the pulpit & handrails to make masking off easier .
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/cnn9Ba.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmcnn9Baj)
Loaded the boat up with everything where it should be , cabin , battery , electrics and figures , and floated up in the bath , marked three points one at the bow and two at the stern to get the waterline and started masking off ( masking across the sprayrails was a S O B . . .)
Need to start another post or I'll lose track . . .
Bill
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Pt two . . .
Fully masked off now , and three coats of Ford Royal blue resulted in . . .
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/lsSWD3.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnlsSWD3j)
displayed in all it's glory with the masking removed .
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/N6jhU5.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnN6jhU5j)
The frames were detached from the skins in places , cleaned out and reglued .
Cabin time . . .
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/s2vjhl.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pns2vjhlj)
Not too bad some frames were loose reglued those , and took off the handrails , ventilators and windows , filled in the cracks on the cabin roof .
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/eksRS8.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poeksRS8j)
Elected to use 80 grit wet and dry instead of getting the paint off needed a WHOLE lot of elbow grease and time just to remove the shine.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/TWLftm.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmTWLftmj)
Needed to mask off three times .
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/A9xjSj.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnA9xjSjj)
Three coats acid etch primer (really gripped on the epoxy paint ) and three coats Ford diamond white.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/vCdvwo.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnvCdvwoj)
Started masking off for the Ford Royal Blue side panels and THE CAMERA PACKED UP ! masked off the roof and nacelles and applied three coats of Ford Royal Blue . . .
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/HREGTF.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poHREGTFj)
New camera , cabin completed by then seats back in , figures and glass fitted .
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/QlQpeQ.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnQlQpeQj)
In all it's glory .
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/FMgYeT.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poFMgYeTj)
All set , everything tests out ok , (Sunday last)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/CTvmC3.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnCTvmC3j)
WEEE , not bad for a 45 year old Aerokits model . ( photo by Dave Wooley )
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/VOjRW4.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poVOjRW4j)
A side view , finished at last ! ! ! (photo by Dave Wooley) looks easy doesn't it ? nearly BINNED the whole thing getting the paint off , luckily I'd hidden all the hammers to prevent that happening . . .
Bill
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Hi Bill
Yes, that was a lot of work getting the paint off the hull!
But it was worth the effort and looks really good now. Looks better in traditional Fairey colours!
I'm just in the process of fitting the chine and spray rails and once I've done some more on the superstructure it will be ready for painting.
Chris
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Ive just read through this and your other thread! Really great work and great photos!
I’m refurbing my 25+ year old Lesro Javelin and am taking all paint off the hull before respraying. I was going to prime with Halfords standard primer or primer filler spray. Was this the one you had trouble with?
I see you use the etch primer on z poxy hull and it works well? Also did you use cloth with the z poxy or just the fluid?
Lovely boats!
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Ive just read through this and your other thread! Really great work and great photos!
I’m refurbing my 25+ year old Lesro Javelin and am taking all paint off the hull before respraying. I was going to prime with Halfords standard primer or primer filler spray. Was this the one you had trouble with?
I see you use the etch primer on z poxy hull and it works well? Also did you use cloth with the z poxy or just the fluid?
Lovely boats!
WoW you started my nightmares again >>:-( it was the Halfords primer filler (the yellow stuff) reacted with everything even Halfords own paints , Hycote was the way to go for me , Hycote etch primer & their paints no problems at all , the Hycote etch is half the price of the stuff Halfords sell .
Elected not to use cloth with the Z poxy finishing resin , getting it tight up to the sprayrails would've been a big problem , as I said the first coat disappeared straight away and needed two coats, the etch primer went straight on with out a hitch .
Bill
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I've just used rustoleum over Halfords primer OK so far. The yellow filler primer behaved itself this time not like before. Not all your pics work for me but great job from what I can see! I'm a big fan of cloth and z poxy on a hiull these days but not necessarily as you point out over rails. I do those on top.
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Hi imsinking;
Congratulations on reaching a goal after a long and hard work.! %%
You did a very good job not only in reforming the boat ,but also in sailing quality which I regard as so important on the water as far as it is a RC model boat.! :-)) :-))
I have also reformed a 42 years old Jupiter F-99 to get her again in service by a brushless motor water cooled.
Yours looks so nice in sailing pics.!!
From now on, I'd like you to enjoy the sailing sufficiently as you spent a huge amount of time into her so far.!
Sailing is pleasant.!! :-))
Backerther
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Nice work Bill, your Swordsman looks superb!
Did you decide to build your Aerokits model with a lift-off cabin right from the start, or did you saw it off in later years?
My Aerokits Swordsman still has the standard fixed super-structure with access only available via the lift-off roof sections, but that is enough for me to get to the motor and LiPo cells etc, but the Phill Connelly Swordsman design has a lift of top like yours and does give more access which is good when major repairs or restoration work is needed.
As a matter of interest, do you know if it is still possible to buy a pair of those rectangular rear window frames that you have on the hull sides of the rear cabin? They do look good, but I have not seen anything like that for sale since the 1960's when I built my first Swordsman.
I guess when the kits were still good sellers, smaller manufacturers made things like those oblong rear window frames (and the pulpit and handrails etc) for those that did not have either the skills or the kit to make the own. When the kit sales stopped - so did the sales of the dedicated accessories, so the supply for them would have stopped soon afterwards.
Stay safe,
Bob.
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Hi Bob, yes I set out to have a one piece lift off cabin/well deck from the beginning , the original set up was a glow motor , ENYA 20 I recall, as you can see with all the cutouts in the frame,I needed to access the interior all the way to the back .
No chance of those side windows anymore , long since passed , I wanted one myself broke it getting it out , had to bodge it back together in the end .
This jogged my memory, the first week after completing I was happily chugging up and down a big lake and, all of a sudden , I lost control it took off flat out down the lake and wouldn't answer the 27meg signals to stop or steer , I'm running after it shouting (in russian) to stop to no avail , crashed into the low concrete bank , & went straight up in the air to head height and came down upside down in the water , the driver was dead he was thrown out face down in the water , what was worse was the engine was still running , I'd fitted an aircraft style clunk tank that still fed fuel to the motor and that was revving HYSTERICALLY & driving the boat thru the prop in the air, luckily it had done a 360 roll in mid air and was facing the bank so came in to be retrieved , the bottom skins were split & the engine seized solid <:( turned out a gent in the club house was 'testing' his yacht radio , same frequency as me . . . such joy . . .
Bill
Hi Bill,
We didnt have too many frequencies to choose from back in the old 27meg days of the 1960's - and we also had a fair share of problems with people switching-on without checking first to see what was already being used !
Cars and aircraft also used 27 meg so things could quickly get quite "hairy" when being totally unaware of aircraft being flown or cars being raced nearby.
I remember the local r/c yacht sailers reversing their crystals (tx crystal in the rx and the rx crystal in the tx) back those days to try gain additional frequencies . When combined with the then available "split" frequencies, a lot of boats could be seen on the water at the same time.
What could go wrong?.......................... O0
We had those painted peg boards that showed every main and split 27 meg frequency, and those who had reversed their crystals used to clip their frequency peg on the board upside-down. It worked a treat ..............sometimes.......
Things improved when 35 meg (for airborne use only) and 40meg (for ground based use only) came along and were all but "sorted" after 2.4 gig arrived on the scene.
I must try to get over to your club water sometime - it was always good to see your club members at Southport when we had our club "open days".
Stay safe,
Bob.
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now that looks much better! The Fairey colours! :-))
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now that looks much better! The Fairey colours! :-))
Praise indeed %% Didn't do the blue stern like your Linzi lou , and the waterline round the sprayrails was a S O B . . .
Wanted to Nickel plate the pulpit / handrails , that didn't end well . . .
Got some transparent 8mm silicone tube to use as rubbing strip round the deck split it & took a further 3mm out of it so it fitted tight on to the edge , glued it on with STIXALL and a couple of brass panel pins at the stern , holding up well so far .
Bill
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OOP'S :embarrassed: A glancing blow with the wall split the top deck , again . . . >>:-(
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/TTNHLB.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnTTNHLBj)
The bodge job with filler had let go even wider this time , BUT I could see what was holding it open , two panel pins had bent and were holding the joint apart , quick work with a thin file took care of that
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/j1CcBZ.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pmj1CcBZj)
Got araldite liberally into the joint & let the excess squeeze out at the bow by clamping up , reshaped the deck edge when cured.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/922/89T9cp.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pm89T9cpj)
Replace the silicone buffer (undamaged in the collision) and it looks better than before . O0
Bill
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Good save there Bill! Looked bad in the first photos.
Chris
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Araldite to the rescue again!
Good stuff :-))
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ACROSS THE LAKE . . .
We raced the two Fairey's to see which was the fastest , both are similar . . .
White Swordsman - 840mm x 290mm wide /960kv outrunner / X40 prop / 11.1 LIPO / 9 pounds weight.
Grey Huntress - 860mm x 290mm wide / 1100kv outrunner / X40 prop / 11.1 LIPO / 10 pounds weight .
All photo's by Dave Wooley .
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/pLAjab.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/popLAjabj)
That's surprising , Swordsman from a standing start all the way
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/923/oBEpwr.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/pnoBEpwrj)
Swapped operators , still the same result.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/xq90/924/Q5Xzum.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/poQ5Xzumj)
Hull form perhaps ? the Swordsman Aerokits hull seems more like the original boat shape , the Huntress's Precident hull is more sharply raked , tho I did notice the propwash on the grey boat was cavitating more , the extra 140kv over driving the X40 prop?
Any thoughts ?
Bill
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Could be a shot from a real offshore powerboat race - they look very authentic with the chop of the water.
What's the grey boat as Precedent only kitted the Huntsman 31? If a Huntress is it the big SLEC kit?
Once on the plane I don't think the rake will make any difference and given that both are deep v hulls and of similar size etc. I'd expect the performance to be similar.
Chris
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Could be a shot from a real offshore powerboat race - they look very authentic with the chop of the water.
What's the grey boat as Precedent only kitted the Huntsman 31? If a Huntress is it the big SLEC kit?
Once on the plane I don't think the rake will make any difference and given that both are deep v hulls and of similar size etc. I'd expect the performance to be similar.
Chris
I naturally consider the Swordsman to be the superior craft Chris
........but you already know this O0
Great pictures by the way, its always nice to see Fairey's at play :-))
Bob.
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Could be a shot from a real offshore powerboat race - they look very authentic with the chop of the water.
What's the grey boat as Precedent only kitted the Huntsman 31? If a Huntress is it the big SLEC kit?
Once on the plane I don't think the rake will make any difference and given that both are deep v hulls and of similar size etc. I'd expect the performance to be similar.
Chris
The grey Huntress is a Huntsman 31 hull I got from eBay , i built all the cabin and stripped out the stuff that was N B G , see the Fantasy Huntress write up ( link on page one of this topic )
The Swordsman is riding better , look at the head on shot , and you can see the middle trail of the cavitating prop on the grey boat.
Bill
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I see Bill. I may have said it on the Fantasy Huntress thread, but you've built a Huntsman 31 Sport there! I started to build one but then converted it to an aft cabin when I sold my 47" version and I've already got a number of full cockpit Faireys.
Bob - you'll have to get your finger out now (forget all those Rapier etc. thingies) and get on with yours!
Chris
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Bob - you'll have to get your finger out now (forget all those Rapier etc. thingies) and get on with yours!
Chris
I do stand quite close to my two incomplete Aerokits based Swordsman models most days........usually as I am working on my various Rapier and Javelin models {-) but they are making some progress now and I intend returning to the Swordsman in the near future.
I am looking forward to running a Swordsman again........the Southport Lake really needs some regular Swordsman activity!
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I do stand quite close to my two incomplete Aerokits based Swordsman models most days........usually as I am working on my various Rapier and Javelin models {-) but they are making some progress now and I intend returning to the Swordsman in the near future.
I am looking forward to running a Swordsman again........the Southport Lake really needs some regular Swordsman activity!
Looking bad on the Wirral now lake wise , Ashton Park West Kirkby / Gautby Road Birkenhead are closed with Blue/Green Algae presence in the water , the New Brighton lake is still open , but we have to fight the skinny dippers for water space ( better them than me , I wouldn't dip in it , the stuff we fish out of there 3 times a week is unbelievable ) I wear gloves when HANDLING boats /buoys etc & wash down my boat with clean water before putting it away , think I'll get a prayer mat in the hope we stay open .
Bill
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We added water treatment to the lake at Southport (to prevent weed) and the water is nice and clear (but black coloured)
This is done every year to keep it clear.
We are not so far away from you if you get stuck or fancy a change.
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We added water treatment to the lake at Southport (to prevent weed) and the water is nice and clear (but black coloured)
This is done every year to keep it clear.
We are not so far away from you if you get stuck or fancy a change.
We use the Dyofix blue in the lake ( might be what's attracting the swimmers)
Heard last week that the Ellesmere Port Model Boat club have had to move from their Hooton Park site & dismantle the lake they built , and that's a shame they spent a lot of cash on that , filtration plant / Dyofix and regular debris clearances , it was an ideal venue for their model boat show , but no more . . .
Bill
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That is a shocking loss of a well established local facility, do you know the reason given for this by any chance?
Will this be the end of the Ellesmere Port Model Boat Club, or are they able to safely relocate?