Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Submarines => Topic started by: portside II on August 15, 2007, 12:02:36 am
-
OK i fancy getting into some hot water so to speak and having a bash with a sub .so as a first timer on the matter what should i start with.
Had a look at Pandan models and like the look of the Akula choice #1 as a dynamic diver.
had a look at North seas fleet Alpha,Kilo,L A models choices#2#3#4 as either dynamic or static .
Would prefer static then i can do both so that swings me over to #2,3,4 .these come A-RTR just fit your own radio and battery's and under you go ,
but what i want to know is there any of you sub-mariners out there that have experience of these kits and if they would be ok for a novice .
daz
-
I think the the NSF Alfa and Kilo do roll a little due to their small size ralative to their top weight, so the LA would be the best of the bunch. If your budget could strech a bit further, go for the Sheerline Akula. The exchange rate at the moment makes some the kits from the States seem cheap too, the Small World Models subs nearly RTR (less electronics)
-
Not a combat model, and a bit more leftfield, but I reckon the Galathee is a good bet for a beginner-
http://www.lecma-rc.com/fiche_produit.php?prodid=606&rub=1&position=5
It comes complete with everything you need, minus radio and batteries, is CNC machined, so construction should be a snap. It's also small and very nimble.
You can paint it in bright colours, so it's easy to see underwater.
Andy
( Pictures saved to forum as they disappeared earlier when their site was down - Admin )
-
LOOKS GREAT..... RIGHT UP MY STREET AS IT WERE ! - NEVER SEEN ONE EITHER.....
-
well andy that looks great ,had a look on their web site and through the build instruction and it dont look that hard .
with a but more investigation i will see what their price is inc postage as that could be the stinger what with all that lead could be heavy??
daz
-
just had a reply from the retailers about the Galathee and isn't not all that bad for the postage .
With the current exchange rate i could have the kit on my doorstep for 298.00 +19.00 postage ,that's euro's and converted to £ £ its around £219.00 .
I have now got to do some serious grovelling to swimbo and make some room in the shed ,and that as she says is not an option and not negotiable.
daz
-
does look good, thanks for the info on price. subculture may well be due some kickbacks for that mention.
dont forget, if you go for it you have to post a build here. its the law.
good luck with her who must be obayed
colin
-
Kickbacks! Yeah right, some hopes. Well I grow my own anyway.
The price sounds fair- you won't get a kit of that quality that is a static diver for less, that I can guarantee.
Robbe Seawolf is another good beginners kit, but it's a dynamic diver (can be converted to static, but you need to DIY).
I think you'll have a lot of fun with this model.
Andy
-
Well had a realy good offer of a sheerline trafalgar sub just add my own radio gear and battery and away i go .
Looks a realy great sub with all the plate markings on the hull and what a lovely prop (a piece of art on its own).
the only thing to concider is the, size she is big and i only have a small car and of course raise the reddies (pease dear) :angel:
daz
-
The trafalgar kit underwent some modifications a couple of years or so ago.
This onvolved moving the batteries underneath the dive module. This improved the weight distribution, and greatly improved the handling of the boat.
I know a chap who owned an original Eden Traflagar model. It didn't like to turn, and the ballast tank wasn't baffled suffiently IMO.
I think mostr of the grumbles have been engineered out this model now.
Andy
-
cheers Andy ,i was told of the mod's to the battery and if i got this one then the new battery could be easily fitted .
not sure about the wtc as i dont know much about these and the ballast tank .
daz
-
Anything you need to know.... just ask!
Regards. Chris
-
Oh lot's of questions Chris .
firstly can i have one of your subs as a freeby O0.
this sub i have been offered looks great ,but how is it for turning as we dint have the bigest of ponds or the deepest (about 2foot) can it be fitted with a bow thruster pump and can the forward diving planes be made bigger as i was told they only really work at speed under water.
and will the wtc fit into the akula shell as the only thing that holds me back is the length to get it in the car (-o- :-\-o-).
daz
-
Hi Portside, I said you could ask but I didn't say you'd get... so thats the freeby question out of the way ;D
Firstly, the old Trafalgar had a large turning circle for a number of reasons;
The rudders are in front of the propulsor cone .. so no prop thrust enhancement. When surfaced, the upper rudder is out of the water. The rudders had limited throw due to the arrangement of the rudder coupling which impnged on the propshaft tube.
The above can be greatly improved by disposal of the rudder coupling arrangement and changing it to that found on the Akula..two control rods, one for each rudder, both going to a common point on the dive unit control rod.. dead easy! this allows for greater rudder throw and thus better turning circle. The first one I put together in this way turns in half the distance and submerged, is extremely good. It's a mod worth doing to all the old style Eden designed Trafs' and you should'nt need a bow thruster unless your pond is tiny.
Don't worry too much about the front planes ,I only ever use them for trimming at speed anyway. DO fit a self leveller however as it will make running this boat so simple and relaxing.
The dive unit for the Akula will definately not operate your Trafalgar: A: it's too small and B: it has a direct drive whereas the Trafalgar unit uses a 5:1 reduction motor/box unit to enable it to turn that multibladed 50mm fan style prop.
Hope this helps.
Regards...Chris
-
cheers Chris
thinking back to the one i saw ,yes i see what you mean about the rudder system been forward of the prop .
If the system was changed to the one used in the akula and (not seen one in reality only pic's)how would the top rudder connect as the top hull comes off with the rudder ??.
And it was would the dive unit from the Traf fit in the Akula not the other way round ,but you have allready answered that for me ;D.
Anyway have still to sell some boats and raise the cash before swimbo grants her permission :D.
daz
-
Hi Daz, The lower rudder control rod extends from the rudder control horn and fits into a brass interconnecting block which is attached to the dive unit control rod at the back of the dive unit. The upper rudder control rod extends from its control horn and is bent at 90 deg at the other end. This angled end drops into a hole in the interconnecting block which is feeding the lower rudder and now you have both rudder rods operating from the same point. It is arranged this way so when the top hull is lifted clear, the rod simply lifts out of the connector and allows the upper hull half to be separated totally forom the bottom half.
The home made equivalent is to make the control rods as I have described but insted of using my specially made brass connector, you can simply solder a small piece of brass tube to the lower rudder control rod and drop the upper rod into this as you fit the top hull half.
Using the above method means the rudder movement is not constrained by the propshaft and much more movement can be applied.
Let me know how you get on.....Good luck with your venture.
Regards....... Chris
-
Hi portside II
To add my comments.
If you are loking for a submarine that works, reliably, Sheerline fills all the criteria.
The after sales support from Chris is the best.
I have had TypeVII for 5 years, with only 2 problems and each time Chris could not have been more helpful in resolving problem, for minimal cost.
Other members of my club have purchased "cheaper" submarines which have in the end cost more, many have ended in the big black bag.
All submarines are a challenge to build and sail effectively.
Regards
Jim
-
All subs have to be constructed to a good standard. It's not just a case of making something which works as that is relatively easy, the real deal is making something which works time and time again. Next to sending a probe to Mars, I can't really think of any machine which operates in such an aggressive and destructive environment as a submarine. The only way to make a sub work reliably under these conditions is A; keep it simple and B: build it robustly.
Regards..Chris
PS. Hi Jim.... good to hear from you, pleased to hear your Type 7 is still active. O0
-
your not really going to send a probe to mars........ are you chris......type 2d coming along nicely after far to many interruptions, floods being one of them, how are you chris, regards Pete
-
Hi Pete, long time no hear, your ears must have been burning cos we were just talking about you the other day and wondering how you were getting on. Glad to hear you're back on the Type2d again.. given all the rain we've had, I wonder you have'nt had to fit an anchor and chain to the kit box to stop it floating off down the high street! Just give me a call if you need anything.
Best regards... Chris
-
Hi Chris,
Yes the type 7 is going strong, i sail it about every second week, although weed in the pond has prevented it lately.
The original battery is still working ok 5 years+ but the run time is down to approx 45min.
I agree with your comments, build to a good standard, keep it simple & robust it pays of in the end. Must try & post some pictures.
regards
Jim
-
Jim, I can't believe your battery is still going after five years! I knew they were more expensive than most others on the market but I reckon the extra cost is justified by the obvious longevity. I can only repeat what a friend of mine often says..
"pay a lot...lose a little....pay a little...lose a lot"! I guess you don't abuse the charging considerations either as I'm sure the cells would have rebelled by now. Good going!
Chris
-
Hi Chris .
looks like i will be picking your brains now Peter has accepted my adoption of his trafalgar (at a very reasonable price too).
have been looking on the web at the internals and not wanting to teach granny to suck eggs , the servo that acts as a cam for the pump switch and to close off the pipe ,while this area needs a strong servo would it work any better if the there was a ball valve fitted to do the same job ,simular to the one used by plumbers
Hope to get her on tuesday when Peter comes to the pond .
daz
-
Hi Daz good to hear you've got your sub. The servo which controls the cam isn't anything special but we usually specify one with a ballraced output shaft as it has a bit of sideloading whilst operating the cam. I normally specify a Futaba 3001 as this is a standard servo but with a ballrace fitted. The cam idea works fine and I would'nt recommend you try and change it. The idea of the piston and silicone tube valve means there are no shafts and seals to wear and leak such as you may encounter with a mechanical valve... it is a totally waterproof system and if you set it up as intended, you can pretty much garuantee you won't ever have to touch it again. I think if you ask any of the chaps on here who have had one, you will probably find very few who felt the need to alter it.
Go forth and enjoy!
Best regards.......... Chris
-
My next build is a Sheerline Alfa.... stay tuned! :o
-
My next build is a Sheerline Alfa.... stay tuned! :o
Lifes too short Martin :angel:
-
Do you mean an Akula?
Wasn't aware of Sheerline making an Alfa, unless it's a newcomer.
Andy
-
I do have the mould for a 7 foot Alpha and intended to remake it this year but time has not been kind to me so it's still waiting in the wings as there is a fair bit of work to do to resurrect it. It has become one of those 'rowntwit' jobs. :-\
Unfortunately there is not much call for such large subs these days as they are not only expensive to produce but handling and transporting such heavy beasts requires special consideration as the average boater can't get them in a normal family car. You also need a team to get them in the water.
Chris
-
...ahh the seven foot Alfa.... still have my fingers crossed :)
-
I will do it eventually Mankster but can't see far enough ahead to say when.. this years plans are shot to bits so far. It was an impressive boat, especially submerged as you were aware of the sheer mass of the thing, especially after using smaller subs. When Dennis Cater had the business he built one for the film 'SUB DOWN' and I used it during the filming. It was fitted with foreplanes and a LF aerial pod on top of the fin so it looked like an Akula. Nick Burge had at that time, built a unit to fit it and it had a powerful motor up the aft end.
The boat had a considerable turn of speed and underwater in an olympic size swimming pool, I was able to open it up. It took a while to reach max speed and took twice as long to stop going full astern. This was very disconcerting as I nearly wrecked the film company's 'prop' on the wall at the deep end. In the turn she was very impressive indeed as you could see the thing banking like an aircraft at full chat with rudders hard over. Problem was, it needed more than the width of the pool to get round and it caused more than a few beads of sweat to form on one's brow as this was the only model of this boat we had for filming.
I will eventually dedicate some time to the project but at the moment, it is on hold.
Regards. Chris
-
I will eventually dedicate some time to the project..
Regards. Chris
Thats good enough for me O0 With the big LA I have, I will eventually be able to recreate the scene from ~Hunt for Red October...
-
That LA is a rare boat! Owning that of course, you certainly know what I mean about big subs... hows your back?? ;D
-
Sorry, yes, Akula! :embarrassed:
..or it maybe the Italian sub - Alfa Romeo ! ::)
Hey Chris,
Have you got the instruction in electronic form at that you can send me please?[/color]
Do you mean an Akula?
Wasn't aware of Sheerline making an Alfa, unless it's a newcomer.
Andy
-
If we are talking Akula, I only have the written part of instructions in electronic form, the pics, I only have in paper form so would have to get you those by post. Just while we are on the subject of electronic mail, I have it stored in 'Word' and the file size is very large so do you know a way I could reduce it to enable me to e-mail such a document. You are dealing with a 'computer cretin' here you know! These instructions are only ever sent out in kits but I am being asked for them more frequently now as they are not always supplied when someone sells a boat on to another as a second or third hand item.
Give me something to fix or build and I will show you a miracle.... give me a computer and I'll show you a pile of confusion and ignorance!
Regards..... Chris
-
Got to this website-
http://www.doc2pdf.net/
Use the browse facility to find the 'doc' file on your computers drive, then click on 'convert document'.
When it has done, it will show a link taking you to a PDF, click on it, and Adobe Acrobat will open up (assuming you have it installed- it's free).
Save this PDF to your hard drive, and then send it as an attachment.
Job done. Easier to do than write!
Andy
-
Sheerline's comments about the Los Angeles are pertinent! The size of the thing (103") is enormous and quite apart from finding a friend with a big enough car to transport it, you'll also need a crew to help you get it into and out of the water. However its sheer size once underway is extremely impressive - it dominates the pond - and its performance is fabulous.
Here are a couple of pictures of mine at the Edinburgh SubDay in June - with our Compsec doing the wading! This was the first sail for this sub in many years and apart from a small leak round the front seals it performed admirably even managing to pass between 2 gates whilst submerged.
It's a pity my car isn't big enough to get it to the Barrow SubDay this weekend (2nd) - but I will be there with my upgraded Trafalgar which is a great boat.
Andrew
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v394/ajg141/Picture1102small.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v394/ajg141/DSC00008.jpg)
-
Looking good Andy! When that boat is submerged and underway, it represents a considerable mass. Whilst in Luxumbourg, I ( accidently of course ::) ) rammed a diver whilst careering along about 6 foot down. I was using a static underwater camera unit and driving the sub via the tv screen so it was extremely clear vision. The boat bowled this six foot bloke over, glanced off and kept ploughing on. God help any boats on your pond which get in the way of that LA.... or it's prop!!
Have fun, look forward to seeing more of it one day.
Best regards.... Chris
-
Chris
I have just taken delivery of the trafalgar ,well i met peter down at the pond at goole and squashed it :-\ in the back of my punto .
I have a set of drawings which come with the sub and was wondering if you had managed to convert your instructions into a format to e-mail them out ;D ;D
daz
-
My LA splits in two for transport and is joined up again pond side. Mine still in kit form other than the hull split, I'll need a bigger house before I can even think of doing anything with it :-\
-
Hi Daz and Andy, I obviously don't have acrobat loaded on here to reduce my file sizes and looked at the download site with a view to using it. It asks for some form of registration ie, e-mail address etc . Is this normal and will I get loads of guff and spam tripe if I fill in my details in the spaces they provide.. I always have my suspicions of sights asking for such things and usually avoid them. Please advise.
Regards. Chris
-
why not try Zipping the file(compresses it) part of Micro Soft package. right click on the file, left clck on zip. then send that.
or open Acrobat reader, top right hand corner, create pdf from MS office. job done. if you dont have Acrobat, do a search on the web for Acrobat, download it. it is a reckognised program. i never get spam from it, just the occasional update.
PC, love 'em, not.
Colin
-
Colin,
Are you sure that is an option in Adobe acrobat reader? I've never seen it, (using Acrobat 8.0) so you have me puzzled.
Andy
-
sounds like you have the full program. mine is Acrobat Reader7.0.
you should just be able to convert the word document straight of. Try, File-navigate to the file you want(file type should be any document or txt)(think) then open it. that should convert it. once you find the wright button, simple(HaHa)
Reckon it would be easier to zip it though. Remember KISS. (keep it simple stupid) firm beleiver.
-
Hi Daz and Andy, I obviously don't have acrobat loaded on here to reduce my file sizes and looked at the download site with a view to using it. It asks for some form of registration ie, e-mail address etc . Is this normal and will I get loads of guff and spam tripe if I fill in my details in the spaces they provide.. I always have my suspicions of sights asking for such things and usually avoid them. Please advise.
Regards. Chris
I always have a couple of free email address set up at hotmail, just for this purpose (like ...usthisemailforregistrations@hotmail.com). Never need to check them as I dont give it out to anyone else, so no concerns about spam.
-
Hi chris
dont worry about spam just do what i did open up an e-mail adress on the net like msn where you can have several which are ant linked to any othe e-mails you have .
but adobe is quite safe and easy to download . what size are the files cos the ones i send out are normaly 20 to 30 a4 pages long and are small enough to send in an email as an attachment .
daz
-
Hi Portside, I have discovered PDF, don't understand it totally but it works. A friend is helping me with Adobe so will have that set up soon. Crikey, it will begin to look as though I know what I am doing at this rate.... but we all know different don't we. Please don't tell anyone though!
-
Dont worry Chris your secrets safe with me O0.
I have started fitting the radio gear into the traf this week and am at the stage on the pump servo ,after nearly loosing the BB when the brass plunger fell out :o
can i make the cam out of a normal servo disc and what difference in shape should the cam be ,i am also fitting a hitec 3003 servo to drive the cam ,is this ok?
as its the next one up from a standard servo .
daz
-
Hi Daz, I sent you an e-mail yesterday, did you get it?
Right,down to business, your servo cam is normally produced from a large servo disc and it has three functions:
1: open the valve and switch on the pump to fill the tank.
2: Stop the pump and close the valve , trapping the ballast water in the tank.
3: open the valve (pump still off) and allow tank to empty.
The shape of the cam is given in a (not to scale) drawing provided in the instruction manual and it is a guide to the working profile. You don't have to make it exactly as shown but it must function in the manner I have described above. The cam in my own boat is not exactly to shape but it does prform the correct function. Read the cam profile sheet so you fully understand what is required and it will all become clear. Get hold of a couple of large servo discs and have a go at it and if you get one wrong, sling it in the bin and make another because once you get it right, you won' need to look at it again.
Re your High Tech servo, I am not familiar with Hi Tech gear as I have always used Futaba but I know people have used it and it seems ok just so long as the servo is a standard size and fits the hole in the servo tray it should be ok. I do know that if you replace that servo with a Futaba unit at any time, you will find the Hi Tech servo disc will not fit the output shaft.
Regards. ..Chris
-
Hi subculture - the Galathee looks like something I'd like to try - I have a Robbe Seawolf but don't want to mess about turning it into a static. The statics I've seen on the market are either modern looking nuclear types (long sausage with a slim tower) or those with some good features are just too long - problems come when turning a long sub especially under water. The Galathee seems ideal - wondered how you got along with it pond side. Does it manoeuvre ok in the water? Also is it a straight forward job getting to the battery for a recharge or is it a major dismantle?...
Cheers,
Periscope
-
Ian
i contacted the company who supply the Galathee and with a good exchange rate you could get it delivered to your door for about £210. amd thats all in .
Chris did you get my photos of the end of the wtc regarding the opening also what edc do you recomend,i have an electronise fr15 also a mtronics 15
and if anyone thinks they know what it is ??
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u176/darran77/P1000073.jpg)
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u176/darran77/P1000072.jpg)
daz
-
Hi,
I don't personally own a Galathee, just had some good feedback on the kit and I think it's a very good model for a newcomer to the hobby as it's very complete, compact and reasonably priced.
If you want to have a look at the Galathee performing click on this link-
http://www.lecma-rc.com/Files_produits/comp3.avi
Any boat this short, with a steerable kort nozzle is going to be very nimble. The only thing that will better this is individual thrusters, which complicates things and raises the cost.
Andy
-
Hi Both - thanks for the info on the cost Darran - on their web site the sub is shown as not available but this must just be a temporary stock problem.
Thanks for the info you put on Subculture - I can't get the video to work at the moment I'm just getting flashing blobs but I'll try again later.
Cheers,
Ian.
-
Hi Portside, I personally fit the M/tronics s/c and normally fit the newer Viper model but I would imagine your 15 would work ok. There are two reasons why I use these units, 1- they are very compact and therefore don't use up to much airspace within the dive unit and 2- I have found them to be very reliable. If your s/c has a small electronic component attached to the outside of its case, this is the BEC which as you are probably aware, supplies the regulated voltage to power your radio gear. Make sure this is firmly attached and can't fall off as it needs the contact with the metal heat sink of the controllers casing to prevent it overheating. If this has been detached, I recommend you fit it to a remote heat sink (thin piece of aluminiun plate) with a nut and bolt to give it something to dump its waste heat into. You may have to extend the wires to enable you to do this. The later Viper model has the BEC built inside the case and does not suffer from this early model problem. As an added improvement, the BEC has been uprated to 1.5 Amps to enable it to cope with the number of sevos and add on's found in subs.
I don't know why someone has fitted the item to the front plate of your unit, it looks like some kind of mod... perhaps used to bring the aerial out of the dive unit. Suitably seal it up so it can't leak, perhaps fill it with silicone rubber and forget about it. Your aerial is best run from the RX, through the central ballast tank tube and into the motor compartment. The remaining aerial wire can be neatly bundled and attached to the aft servo tray by drilling two holes either side of your bundle and running a plastic tie-wrap through and around to secure the surplus wire. Although shortning odf aerials is sacrilage in my book as it reduces range, you will find you have more than adequate signal strength for the range at which subs are used providing you are in freshwater. If you use this boat in saltwater, the radio signal will be lost when you dive... even on a fully extended aerial.
Sorry, I have run on a bit here but hope it's useful info for you.
By the way, I would say you have an early boat there judging by the pics.
Regards....... Chris
-
Thanks Chris all your info is well received as i don't want to get it wrong :'( when i take her down (so to speak) to the pond ,i want her to come up dry on the inside O0.
I normally use electronize as i find them very reliable and easy to operate and the M/tronics ,not used them much so cant comment although a fellow mayhemer has smoked a few of them and this has happened for no apparent reason but thats another topic .
I will try the new viper 15 or maybe a 20 as they are a bit smaller than the electronize .
As for the hole ?? as i have no use for it i will like you say ,bung it with silicone and forget it ,is there a big difference with the early wtc and the later ones apart from what i have seen in the ballast tanks ,plastic v steel
The other thing is ,decorating :) i have seen pics of another Trafalgar with the blue paint work and this got me thinking ::) what about a cold war type striped tiger effect ;D in shades of blue i have seen this design o early German u boats .
Don't worry i can take it be honest/gentle :angel:
-
Hi Daz, if you go down the M/Troniks route and decide to buy one dedicated for your sub, use the 25Amp Viper SSR. It is very robust and as is not heavily loaded in these subs. The earlier M/Troniks s/cs only had a 1Amp BEC and were hard pressed to cope with four servos, an RX,a self leveller and their own electronic circuit demand so this might have accounted for the occasional failure but that seems to be a thing of the past with the SSR.
The dive units remain virtually unchanged and the stainless ballast tank version is only used on the Type 2D. I have however made small detail changes such as an improved positive terminal for the battery which now has a gold connector and rubber bellows which fit on to a new corresponding terminal post on the front of the unit so 'gone' is the old silicone bung and spade design. I also fit a modified tyre valve to the end cap to enable you to lightly pressurise the dive unit. This helps avoid any misting of the end caps when the unit is plunged into icy water and also helps with the effects of duff seals or maladjusted driveshaft glands. NOTE: This is not a cure for the latter but serves to indicate their failure!) The seals on your boat don't look too bad by the way but if you have any doubts, a new set only cost a tenner.
As for colour schemes, these things were always black and I know they are referred to as 'They big black b--st-rds' by the locals around the Scottish Lochs who see them come and go from time to time. The blue pattern colour scheme is often used by modellers to break up the blackness and is very peculiar in the way it has been laid out. I have been informed by submariners from these ship that this was in fact only an experiment and was applied to only one or two vessels in the fleet. Perhaps someone out there could enlighten us further on this one.
Beware the 'Mickey Mouse' patterned schemes you mentioned as you may become an object of ridicule at the lakeside !! :embarrassed: ;D
Chris
-
I take it you have not seen the rest of my fleet (just in case anyone else out there decides to mention it i got in first ha!) :D .
The suggestion of the 25 ssr is welcome and one will be purchased asap ,not gone down the route of the self leveller as of yet ,maybe later,how much£££.
the thought of fitting a tyre valve to the wtc where that thing is has crossed my mind rather than just bunging it up ,what do you think ? .
But back to the colour schemes ,i was thinking of a more subtle approach not too offensive :)
daz
-
As if I would ........ :angel:
-
Hi Daz, if you want to stick a tyre valve in place of that 'fitting', it will foul the back end of the battery so forget that. I usually fit them somewhere in the backplate of the unit, usually between the two control rods. The valve I modify is threaded 6mm and if you cannot drill and then tap the backplate to accomodate it, you will need to fix it using a nut on the inside.
As for self levellers, they cost £40-00 and if you decide to fit one, you would'nt regret it as the boat can go hands off at periscope depth.
As you sound quite keen to re-paint the boat with a different colour scheme.....what about DAGLO ORANGE??? Just think, you will never lose sight of it, you will be able to see it underwater very easily and you will have a sub that you can pass on to your grandchildren in your will........cos you will never sell it to anyone!!! ;D ;D ;)
Joking aside, a black satin finish spray can from the auto shop will cover that boat completely with a light coat and it should set it off quite nicely.
Chris O0
-
Day-glo orange now that's a colour for the robbie seawolf O0
Satin black sounds about right ,oh is the resin on the hull the same colour all the way through (black) as we have a mariner on the pond who likes running into the bank as well as other boats and i would'nt want the nice paint scratched off my sub by the shrauds of plastic from his ,shh riverman shh you know the fellow Ian 8).
I will get the sub in the water first and then see about the valve ok Chris ..
daz
-
Hi Daz, the hull is polyester resin and is moulded in black so any wayward tendencies on the part of the captain should'nt result in any obvious scuffs and scrapes showing through! If you need to remove paint from the hull, be careful if you sand it down as you may remove some of the surface detail. Depending on the type of original paint used, you may find it will disolve and wash off using cellulose thinners, a bit messy but if you use it, the hull plastic will not react so you have no fear of damaging it with such a solvent. Just make sure you do it outside in the fresh air and not in a confined space! :D
As your boat is already constructed you only need go through the dive unit section of the manual and give it a good read, you will find it all very simple and straightforward. I have a tendency to be very 'wordy' and my friend usually critises me for it but I have to word these thing so the absolute novice can easily understand it. There are a lot of hints and tips to help you in there.
Good luck with it all....... Chris
-
cheers Chris any probs and i will give you a shout.
daz