Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: midori gaoka on December 04, 2016, 01:03:03 pm
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Hello,
After a long construction of "Mont Saint Michel", I wish to start a smaller project.
One of my friends had an 1/100 tanker plan. It's 98.3 cm long and 13.7 cm beam.
I've found some photos of "Apache" on shipspotting web site.
This one is a sister ship of "AZTEK", built in Hambourg in 1979. But, I did not find many photos of details.
If some one has got it, I could help me a lot. For once ,I' ve decided to start with the wheelhouse.
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Hello everybody,
As usually, I use 0.5 mm plasticard in order to build decks in order to detail I've added photo etched doors. I 've started with the first deck of wheelhouse.
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Hi Midori, an unusual way to start a new model ship however, the quality of what you have done so far is 1st Class. Looking forward to seeing more on this one. :-)
Regards,
Ray.
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You are not the first to start by building the upper works first, but I am wondering why you start here? Why not start with the hull of the ship?
But I do like the way it is coming together, if it is even half as good as the ferry then it will be a terrific model when finished. Attention to detail is superlative.
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Hello,
I've started with the wheelhouse because it's too cold to work with resin in winter. Most of the time, I work on hull in my garage or outside (polyester resin smell too much) not in my small workshop. During last days , I've sticked many plasticards pieces in order to assembling deck n°2 and n°3
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I've started with the wheelhouse because it's too cold to work with resin in winter.
Ah, yes, that makes sense. Better than just waiting for warmer weather. :-))
What you have done so far looks really well put together.
Regards,
Ray.
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Very nice crisp clean work there - I look forward to seeing this build develop
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Hello
Thank you for your coments. Last week, I've worked on the wheelhouse front. It takes lots of time because there is many details to add. I've used brass in order for rod. I've made them , one by one. I 've a question, on the real one photo, at the back there'is a kind of rescue boat. Does any body know what it is ? Has some one got photos or plan about it ?
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Your super structure progress so far is Top class Midori. As crisp as a new 500 Euro note (as was before they were discontinued).
I salute your patience at making and fitting all the rungs. I hope your therapy is successful!!! It is like adding rivets %%
Re the small boat, I assume that it is a standard size boat and might be found on photos of other similar ships. maybe a chandlers to the ship building industry can help you?
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I 've a question, on the real one photo, at the back there'is a kind of rescue boat. Does any body know what it is ? Has some one got photos or plan about it ?
To me it looks like a raft stood on its side.
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I think it's a simple raft/pontoon for maintenance work on the hull sides such as painting!
Beautiful build as always!!
Hama
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I think you are like me Midori. You get lots of satisfaction doing all the small fiddly parts :D I know what you mean with doing the grp work. I spent all summer here in Spain fighting the resin setting too quickly because of the heat. Then last week when I needed to do some more, it is now too cold for it to cure. I sat with my wife's hairdryer blowing hot air on to my parts to get the resin to start curing! %%
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I sat with my wife's hairdryer blowing hot air on to my parts to get the resin to start curing! %%
Oooh Matron!!!
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Hello everybody,
As usually, I use 0.5 mm plasticard in order to build decks in order to detail I've added photo etched doors. I 've started with the first deck of wheelhouse.
Mate, Looking at the photos do you mean 5mm plasticard, looks nice and solid.
In construction, only Millimetres and Metres are used, never Centimetres, that way metric errors are easily detected.
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Hello,
Thank you for your comments .I can confirm that I use 0.5 mm thick plasticard.It's easy to work with. But, sometimes, I' like to work with wood.You can see wooden doors on Apache 1.
Otherwise, I will follow hama's advice, I' ll looking for raft/potoon maintenance photo's.
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Hello,
The wheelhouse front is on the way. Most of decks are already finish. I'm thinking about paint, I wonder if I should paint it as a new boat or a boat with many month on sea.
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Looking smart Midori. How do you manage to get the cut-outs so nice and square ?
Regards,
Ray.
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Very nice details going on here. I will be following your build!! :-))
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Hello,
The deck which supports the wheelhouse is ended. The support of shield is stuck on the deck, and this one is sliding .
Supports slide under smooth him.
The roof of the wheelhouse is ended .
The next stage: the implementation of the stern-post and the rudder
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Wowsers! Progress is excellent Midori. How do you get your cuts so square???
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Where do you source your photo etched parts from Midori? They look very clean and do your modelling a great compliment
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Hello,
To answer at your questions, I add a photo of my proxxon tool. This one is very usefull to give a squared shape.
Otherwise, I often find photo etched pieces on hobby lobby modelbau.
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:o Such beautiful craftsmanship! Looks like it will be a beautiful ship when done..
And to answer your question about the overall final look, I think that weathering, if overdone, can kill a final model. In this case if I had the skills you do, Id go with a look that represents a newer ship, and as natural wear and tear occurs, use that to add more and more.
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Hello everybody,
Here is the momment to settle the engine. There are rubber stamp. By squeezing bolts, more or less hardly, we can refine the alignment between the engine and the propeller shaft.
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Sorry, the last photo is not the one I wanted to post. So let me correct
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Hello everybody,
It is the moment to build the tank. The boat will have to sink of 1.5 cms. The calculations watch that is needed a ballaste of 1.5 liters. This one possesses 2 partitions inside to limit movement of the water. A 12 v pump can fill up the tank in 40 s, this is not to bad.6 pipes standing outside avoid exploding the ballast tank during the filling
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I like your engine mount Midori. That is a good idea :-))
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Hello ,
I've made a break on mechanism step. I'm back on détails. I'm working on the top. This is one is made with 0.5 mm plasticard. Supports on side are in 0.5 mm rod brass. They supports cover against sun
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Midori.......I am well reminded of your previous superbly detailed large and functional ferry build :-))
So just a few preliminary questions from what we see on you ballast system
1. a requirement of 1.5 litre's of ballast
2. the ballast tank which appears to be located with the tank top near to deck level
3. a tank top snorkel
4. two overboard tank discharge lines located just under the tank top lid
5. two 1/2 width tank baffle plates
a. when you pump/press up the ballast tank, will you have valving to stop ballast water from discharging backwards through the pump/ballast water suction line?
b. how will you de-ballast the tank?
c. with the 2 overboard discharge lines located just under the tank-top lid will allow the tank footprint to be a full volume of air and hence the snorkel will never function. Without internal dropper leg spools, I am unsure of the function for these overboard discharge
d. fully blocked internal baffle plates with a series of water passage holes across the base line of each baffle plate would slow and help overcome any movement of water [due to any air pocket] in the tank during rolling and or pitching
Looking forward to build progress and detail O0
Derek
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Hello,
I ll try to answer with my poor English.
a- The ballast has not got any valving system, I switch off the pump when I can see water getting out pipes.
b- I can de-ballast the tank with the same pump by getting water under the bow
c- The 2 big pipes are used in order to to give the signal that the ballast is full, and avoid to destroy the tank with a over fill up
d- Maybe, I've made a mistake witha part blocked internal baffle. But, I think I'll use empty or full ballast not with half fill-up
Bye
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Hello,
I 'm happy I've just finished funnels. There is a generator of smoke which comes from the train world .I'll try his tomorrrow
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Nice work :-))
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Hello,
The wheelhouse is on the way. I did not have any regret to paint piece by piece. It took to much time to use mask tape before you paint all
things together in the same time.
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That is lovely work Midori. Really tidy and delicate looking :-))
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Very nice!!
Could we see some more of the bridge/interior detail please?
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Hello,
My answer is very late, as you can see, the inside wheelhouse is not totally finish. There are some light I need to hide.
I 've painted the hull, but for once I 've tryed the weathering method. But it need to be improved with adding some alguae. If some one has got some tricks to represent it , it could help me.
More photos are coming
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Hello Everybody,
It is now necessary to take care of the front of the ship. The windlass consists of several plastic part of 0.3 mm. I've tried to make my own stanchions in 0.3 and 0.5 mm of brass
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Your rust streaks are very realistic in not being too dark or hard edged, they feather nicely.
I love the mast and winch, it is all coming along well Midori.
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Hello,
I've worked on the front deck in order to add the mast and the windlass. I'm waiting for chains to complete it. In the same time, I'm wondering how to represent alguae on the hull.
More photos are coming.
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There are surface products such as Mr Surfacer that Military modellers use to create cast/uneven effects in their models that come in different grades, Then there are weathering powders that can be used to build up similar effects but these are costly especially on a large model.
Also acrylic texturing pastes can be used for this but are usually white so need pre tinting. A tub should do you for at least one model. You can use household emulsion if you get the right colour mixed. A 250Ml testor pot would give you loads of paint.
Interior filler powder is also very good with acrylic paints.
I used to use talcum powder and humbol enamel (Earth) mixed together to create mud effects which is cheaper and more random.
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Hello,
Thank you for your advice ,I'll follow it in next days. Now, the mast is completed. In few days, the front deck is close finished.
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Amazing detail Midori. The green is nice too :-))
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A beautiful build, very clean and precise. Your weathering is extremely convincing, just the right touch. I am very jealous, it is something have never mastered! I am anxiously awaiting to see her maiden voyage.
Jonathan
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Hello,
Thank you Jonathan for your comments. Now, the mast and windlass are fixed, the next step is the main deck. It will take time to complete it, many pipes and curves..
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Well Midori...that green fócsle deck is prototypical......and also for the winches
Not sure if your instructions note this but the machinery shed as you have built houses the electric motors and hydraulic pumps for the anchor and mooring winches, however the main hydraulic oil tank is in the mast O0......for a vessel of this tonnage....500 litre oil header tank capacity would be common
You will also have some mooring winches and valving consoles to create and install
Derek
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Hello,
The trouble with a tanker's bridge is the number of pipes.It is a succession of pipes, gates and reins. And it is not easy to twist in 90 ° pipes. You always wonder if you follow the good line of pipes, they are so similar. I can admit It is a little bit boring
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EMA sell a range of pipes and various angles and 'T's etc if that would help with your labyrinthine project Midori! I am not sure if their pipes go down that small, maybe kit sprue corners would provide a cheap source of bends?
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Check out Plastruct (EMA) http://www.plastruct.co.uk/ (http://www.plastruct.co.uk/) they do everything for structural and architectural modelling. See latest catalogue (PDF) http://www.plastruct.com/catalog/Vol_10_CatalogSMFL.pdf (http://www.plastruct.com/catalog/Vol_10_CatalogSMFL.pdf)
I use loads of their stuff for detail work on my boats.
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Pipework can be simulated with various thickness wire, for instance mains electricity cable for wiring homes comes in .5, 1, 1.5 and 2mm thickness if you strip away the insulation from the copper wire - it can be thicker if you leave the plastic insulation in place, but then it is more difficult to get a sharp bend in it. Once painted you will never tell the difference between it and plastic tubing.
A tip for your pipework, draw the pipe runs on a seperate piece of board that can simulate your deck, bend all the pipe on to that diagram and when you are happy with them, its just a case of transferring the pipes to your model deck.
If you look at the weathering paints by Vallejo, AK or Mig, you will find a suitable acrylic algae for weathering, one bottle will cost around 3€ and will be more than enough for your ship. If you want a thicker algal growth you can mix in some of the powder sold for model railways to simulate trackside grass, but that stuff is expensive for a bag full when you will only need a small spoonful. I've seen in the diorama pages on facebook that they also use cooking herbs, that might work if given an overspray of matt clear varnish afterwards.
Your model detail is superb as usual, can't wait for the next update.
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A set of algae paints demonstrated on youtube, aimed at ship modelling....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k1mlSOnCn70
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Thank you for your advice. I'll look for MIG weathering to my model shop tomorrow. When it is finished, i'll send photos.
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Thank you for your help,
I 've followed your advice so I used mig weathering.
I've sprayed with my airbrush the light green. I did not let to much time to dry. With a sponge ( and a drop of white spririt), I lightly touch the paint . And when it was totally dry, I apply the dark green with a small sponge.
As you can see on photos , I don't think Ineed to add more
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Wow - that's a great looking weathering effect - well done Midori :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Fantastic weathering Midori, I hope to get close to it when it comes time to do my supply vessel.
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Hello,
It was time to use weathering method on deck. It's not finished yet, I need to add some light green patch on deck's path.
In the same time I've tried to give "months at sea" on the wheelhouse.
More photos are coming, normally the sea trials..
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Excellent use of weathering techniques on both the hull and the decks.
Can't wait to see the next instalment. :-))
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Good evening,
The tries are in halftone. The tank filling and the smoke generator work very well. The problem comes from the propulsion which is not rather fast. The reduction is of 1:6, with a rotation of 1000 rpm for a small 30 mm propeller. So I am going to change the engine which will be reduced by a report of 1:2.5.If ever it is not sufficient. I think of passing of 6v in 12v.It's a pity but I don't know what to do of other one.The bow propeller does not turn either rather fast. I am also going to increase the tension.I thought that he remained in me only the mast to be ended, but I shall have to redo a little of mechanics.s are
More photos are coming
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Very nice model! :-))
I think 1:6 reduction is too much for a 30mm prop. I dont now which motor you use but I would go to direct drive.
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I love the algae effect on a splendid model :-))
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Very nicely done. I really like your weathering effect.
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Hello everybody,
I 'm still working on weathering effect to represent the pathway on deck. I add a light green powder. Before that, I've completed the two mast. They are usefull to carry pipes in order to filling another tanker. The wheelhouse is finished. Next days, I ll do another trials with a new reducted motor.
More photos are coming
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Your idea to use a lighter green rather than lightening with white is a sound idea.
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Hello,
I've just made the light trials. It's not to bad.More photos are coming.
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Looking really good!
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A splendid representation of a tanker Midori. Don't overdo the motor size, you don't want to turn it into a power boat :embarrassed:
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Excellent!!
Hama
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Looks really great, well done.
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Hello,
Thank you for your comments, it means i'm on the good way.
I post the last Apache 1 trials at "sea". It took place on a september morning without any wind. The motor reduction with a rate 1:2.5 is a good choice. It can sails about 2 hours with a medium speed. I will withdraw lead at the bottom, too much heavy.
The model is nearly completed