Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: gregk9 on December 09, 2016, 10:08:35 pm
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Took the plunge with a different build. Incidentally has anyone else built on of these, Ive been looking around and cant find any build blogs to my knowledge......but everyone can be wrong !
Kits arrived today, awaiting delivery of the recommended motors.....may see if space for a sound unit too..
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On opening the box.....
Nice quality laser cut plastic sheets....just 1 minor drawback, the sheets need a little sanding to remove the melted edges where the laser has done its job. unsure if to sand first before removing from sheet or just sand edges once removed..
* Forgot to add. the last photo shows the depron plan for mounting the keel and ribs too, so to ensure all is inline before adding hull side pieces.
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Ive started assembling the hull frame. Ive tried 6 times to attach photos but to no avail, dont know whats going on with the thread, each time I attach, it uploads, then comes back as a blank screen.
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Hopefully, images below !
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Would someone kindly say if these images are any better/clearer.... am playing with an image resizer, to get images down to forum limits. be a bit troublesome till i hit the right spot !
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The images need to be increased to 150k to fill the screen. Your last batch were to low. ( in kilobytes ).
Hope this helps
ken
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Hi Ken,
Many thanks.
been a while since I last put some posts on this site, so lost the plot with image sizing.
will try a rev the next batch up a notch.
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So whilst waiting for the hull frame to dry fully. I had a start on the main cabin. All parts fit very snugly, with interlocking tags on almost all items to both aid fit but ensure correct location too. The main cabin has a nice decal to depict the cotrol panel, the underlying plastic panel has been laser cut to allow light from below to shine up and illuminate the components.
Led's are supplied in the kit bag, all you need to add are the resistors....dependent on what voltage battery you run [thats why not supplied in kit].
* last pic also shows a "hook", 2 others on hull frame, so to aid securing of cabin when sailing. *
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Pics are far to small to view...why not use Photobox that will automatically resise the pics ready to upload saves the flapping around.
Would love to see the pics but cant make out the detail
Dave
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I tried photobox originally, pics still came out oversize for this website, so searched for alternative.
will try revising settings again, then once ok, will do all the pics again before posting new bits.
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If you look through the photos resising section you will see that I explained how to do it...all you do is copy and paste form photobox to the site and the pics work superbly....none of this resisng yourself
Dave
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here goes again.
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gregk9
The hull frames & stringers ... ["Nice quality laser cut plastic sheets"] look very sharp :-))....& straight........so whilst other talk of image resizing, I was wondering what type of glue you will be using on the plastic surfaces?
Derek
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Hi watching with interest as I fancy one myself. Looks good upto now.
Glyn.
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im currently using the one recommended by the kit manufacturer, which is "UHU Plast Special", as the plastics used are "abs". This glue comes in a30g bottle with fine long nozzle, allowing you to roll a nice line of glue along a joint. the glue "melts" the plastic together, giving a very good strong bond, tack dry in a minute, fully dry in about 5mins.
When I assembled the framework. I applied glue to all surfaces I could reach. waited 24 hrs then turned over and did the other sides of all the joints, before returning it to its depron jig to keep it square.
The cabins have pegs and holes to aid fitment, all pegs sit flush with outside, except for the front angled panels, where a minor bit of filling is required. but russhing the gun here, more pics to follow guys ! O0 :-))
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stern pic shows addition of supports.
motor mounts pre drilled including pair of holes with adjustment slots !
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heres a picture out of the instruction booklet, depicting how the cabin interior should look, yes all seats tables and cabinets supplied too.
plus picture of underside of cabin... comes complete with securing hook to hold cabin on to hull whilst sailing.
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images of dash panel from above and below. just so you can see how its been cut to allow an led bulb to shine upwards and illuminate all the instruments and switches..
the lower cover not fitted to dash so I can add the lighting later.
Incidentally, both cabin floors are held in by screws so they are removeable if need arises to either reaffix a window or add crew perhaps?
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Looks like a very well thought out, complete kit. Watching with interest.
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Me too! Been watching this kit for awhile, please keep the pictures coming!
Hama
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Sorry for delay, but ive split my activities on this build, so as to accomodate some of the items having sufficient time to dry fully before proceeding.
So, Ive now part attached one of the hull sides [which is why i had to leave to dry]. Built the forward shelter. Started on interior and given you a shot of what the control panel may look like, by shining a temporary light from below...
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part of the rear cabin...one of the desks. and one seat... please excuse seat as not fully dried, so edges not sanded to give more rounded corners... 10 pieces for each seat! a work of art, especially when you put one piece in back to front....but hey, my first seat and it soon lets you know as other parts then wont link in.
I have also had the motors arrive, opted for Graupner 400 speed's, as im still waiting for the aero nauts to arrive, but being as i will need the shortly to align the drive train, something had to go in.
The control panel looks really good. im glad theres so many windows, so people will be able to see it.
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Right, after a short delay sorting some Christmas stuff out, plus allowing sufficient time for these hull side to fully dry out before even checking out the finished job so to speak. Here it is with both hull upper sides attached.
Next challenge is to bond on the two lower halves.....
https://img2.brain4.photobox.com/934057121de561aba73c6a22a6ca584e6b32806db5ffa711bf166382a244146c27e6c202.jpg
https://img2.brain4.photobox.com/8885207250153f24f4d81e38fa23cbbc6442d8d10ad5014b2203c30012a0f76077776aff.jpg
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see if these images are any easier to view..
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Now for a bit more... Ive started to attach the lower hull sides. As per instructions, starting at the bows.. so this will take a few takes, allowing for the glue to dry at each stage, simply to ensure the side skins fit as snugly together and as close to the inner frames for support as possible too.
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So...whilst the lower hull skins are drying. I decided to have a go at the main cabin roof. NO, im not fully fixing it on yet, still have some interior to sort, but wanted to get the shape of the roof sorted, so I can then sort the mast, radar and searchlight out before the roof goes on.
Due to the angles in the roof parts, id recommend as I did, do a dry fit....then grab a file and put a suitable chamfer angle on some of the panel edges to get a better/sharper fit.
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Having let the bows dry on the lower hull sides, now time to align the panels before doing further glueing. The method I came up with is quite simple, but ensures all is aligned. If you insert a couple of pieces of scrap plastic card from the laser cut sheets, into the two slots that are cut to accept the propeller shaft supports, you can now ease the lower hull panels in to correct alignment with ease, tape over the scrap tags and it holds them in situ. A second good reference point is the two elliptical holes pre cut for the shafts to exit the hull should now also be aligned. Being as these holes are all pre cut....better to align them now before reaching for the glue.
Pictures show both outside and inside views of these mentioned slots.
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Looking good.
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Looking good, Hoping SANTA brings me one.
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Thanks for the comments guys, much appreciated.
"Best Price" for the base kit so far goes to "Howes" currently. I only ordered mine direct as wanted to order the props & motors at same time, but unfortunately motors wont be here before the lower hull is "sort of" fitted out.
The accuracy of panel fit is good,just watch out for slight burring on part edges due to the laser "melt", but a couple of passes with a fine file and all sorted. the Uhu glue is a must, you can see it melt the join edges, so use with care, but at least you feel more confident the joins will hold. So using "stabilit express" afterwards on the hull main seams adds the "belt n braces" touch for full reassurance that no join is going to split.
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Merry Christmas to all mayhemmers !
hope you all have a great day and that Santa brings you all those boat kits you wished for.
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Ive managed to pop in the odd few hours here and there over the last 4 days, so things progressing nicely. The stern/transom cover is on, along with what i thought was going to be a nightmare and didnt look like it was big enough....lower stern cover. Trust me, it looked undersize, but once bonded in place....hardly a gap!
BUT, glue down one side...allow to dry fully and the other side will ease down and fix in place...ok takes some strong tape to hold down, not unless you want to sit there holding it till the uhu glue sets... I have to admit, im NOT using superglue as the booklet suggests to "temporarily hold" things till the proper glue sets, as i dont like using superglue on anything that gets wet, as you cant guarantee you have covered it with the propriety glue afterwards fully.... its my own thoughts, but you may feel differently about this. what works for me, is what I show, what works best for you...works for you .
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Time for the most boring, tedious but necessary bit.... Secondary bonding of all the hull interior plastic's. Stabilit Express is one of the products recommended by the kit manufacturer and knowing how good this resin is....I fully second that after using it on many builds and it never fails!
Just remember to ONLY mix sufficient that you can easily apply before it starts to set...Normally I get around 15 minutes before it starts to go fudgy, so beware. So as an example, the resin comes with its set of mixing bowls. I use the "3 scoop" bowl, so its 3 scoops of white powder to a top up to the brim with tube resin, mix gently at first till the powder has started to mix in, then give a good stir before applying.. careful this stuff is runny at first so dont try to pick up too much at a time.
Ok I may be preaching how to suck eggs to some watching folk, but I do appreciaate there are a few guys new to waterbourne plastic kit builds who may need a little more guidance that the instructions in either the kit or on the back of the glue pack can say.
The hull underside was finished off with a light smeaar of resin around the joint between the upper and lower hulls as stated by manufacturer, i can see why as it does fill up a blunt step between angles.
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Now that the outer hull is, er complete [barring for drive train], I prefer to make sure all the seams are watertight now, before any further kit is installed internally, so leak remedy is easier [if needed]. So time for the test tank. get the hull floating, then a gentle press on the stern and on the bows to deepen the depth of water.....well what do you know....no leaks !
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Just for a giggle, placed the deck onboard, plus main cabin & part built search light housing.... Looks quite good if I say myself.
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.... Looks quite good if I say myself.
Yep! :-))
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Now that the hull has had time to dry, time to start on the drive train. One of the options available is for some better "quality" universal/huco joints for the prop shafts. I did opt for these and after seeing the manufacturer supplied ones, which are 2 metal couplings, loosely joing by a coil spring....I was right!
These spring couplings may be ok, IF you only "drive" them in the direction that keeps the coils compressed, but in a twin motor setup AND being as both couplings are identical [not one wound opposite], it would mean one of the coils is driven in the opposite direction to its construction, so its going to want to "UNWIND", so go slack on the coupling joints and maybe loose drive at the same time. Same goes id say if you wanted to do an emergency "full astern" to avoid a collision or worse, still......the shore bank.....drive could be easily lost...along with your bows!
So huco's it is.....but be careful, measure a couple of times here as the propeller shafts supplied are designed lengthwise for their couplings, NOT huco's. so a bit of shortening to the joint end will be needed, otherwise the propellers could hit the rudder blades...Yikes!
yes, I found all these bits out on the "test fit", so be mindful to also test install the rudders and tubes at same time to ensure prop clearance.
The kit comes with a pair of propeller shaft supports, which fit from underneath and have a nice tag which fits in to a slot already pre made in the hull. My guts told me to test fit, mark a line on the inside and then remove, drill a hold to take a piece of brass rod to act as a lock pin, so no chance of these dropping in they ever worked loose. On saying this, with the huco joints on the shafts and with them just sitting in the hull, alignment is quite good and all the pre cut slots work out well. The instructions suggest you simply wrap an elastic band around the hull, over the prop shafts and hey presto, ready to glue in place.....BUt the pressure from the elastic band pushes the shafts towards each other....So I cut a spreader guide out of one of the spare sprue o
pieces, filed a semi circular roove in either end, the same width as where the props come out of the hull, so when tagged between the shafts at the prop ends....and with the pressure from the laccy bands, all is ready to take its first dabs of stabilit.
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drive train pt 2. sorry didnt want to overload the system with too many images on the post.
These images show the spreader plate i created, to hold the propeller shafts in place and stops them being pulled inwards whilst the glue is bonding.
It works and saves time having to hold them in place personally. Stabilit may set fast, but it never seems to set fast enough when you are trying to hold two things together.
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Please please can we have some larger pics so we can see the detail..
..have a look at my thread on the big tid tug hosted by photobox so so easy to use and then everyone can see the detail
Dave
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Hi Dave,so whats the trick with photobox then. Ive opened an account online, uploaded some images, but what next? how do you transfer to this site....do you copy and paste the image you see online, or just copy and paste one of the visible links on the image page? forgive me, but im used to good old microsoft picture publisher on xp systems, which of course, wont transpose on to newer windows.
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pm sent
Dave
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<iframe frameborder="0" style="width:150px;" src="http://www.photobox.co.uk/album/4647723962"></iframe>
Its a link to the photobox album....ok, its a start, but still getting my head round using photobox !
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Please forgive me, but attempting to get some better images online. here first "test! Ive started to add some detailling to the main cabin, so "Main fuseboard and first aid cabinet gone in, along with the first of the two supplied desks.
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heres some earlier images of the initial keel build. hope they show a bit more details for you.
Please let me know guys if these images are reaching your screens better, apologies again about the earlier posts but been having issues with image resizing for the thread on this site.
* You will note on the lower [outer] edge of the keel frames, a "hook" formed in the plastic. this helps to lock the deck supports in place, but also when you attach the hull sides, the side pieces, drop in to these hooks and reduce the risk of the sides lifting as you bond them on to the keel frames.
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Have loosley re assembled again for some better pictures, hope they do the build more justice. Ive applied a light smear of plasto putty over the "peg joints" after sanding the pegs down flush, get a smoother finish on the paint.
the main cabin roof section ive built up, but keeping loose, untill the interior is complete to ease access.
Oh, reason why the desk in the forward cabin sits away from the side wall....if you look in the r/h corner, see the round hole ? well one in other corner too... pre holed for cable runs for the lights and radar etc. I will run some "L" section up these corners once the cabling sorted, for the mast lights, nav lights etc.
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HALWLUIA we can see the pics DONT change a flippin thing O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 O0
Dave
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:-))
Many thanks for your guidance, greatly appreciated.....thing is though...unless someone says something, often as the "postee", I dont know of issues,
"Robosizer" is the name of the game, FREE to download, the site even gives you the access code to keep the program license too.
You just click on a pic to upload, robosizer takes over and automatically resizes for what you are sending too, so only takes one click to submit, takes all the aggro of even uploading to another web site tp then get links/shares. ;)
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Going back a small step, being as the imaging is now as it should be.... Props ! I found that following the build instructions, left the accurate location of the shafts on their supports a little on the loose side and too easy to loose alignment, as the instructions recommend to wrap an elastic band around the complete hull and over the shafts to keep them in place....but this then pushes sideways against the shafts...pushing them off their supports.
So I cut a small piece of plastic off the remnants of the laser cut sheets, measured the distance between the prop shafts as they exit the hull, and then cut and filed a guide bar to sit in between the two shafts, where they sit over the shaft supports, thus keeping the shafts in line as the stabilit sets...well even 15 minutes holding them in place by hand can often seem a very long time....and also prone to the occaisional disaster as you dont realise you have actually moved whilst it was setting.
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Rudders ! I thought things were going too easy for a full plastic build. So, when I put the props in, I decided to check the rudder clearance at the same time, to make sure they didnt foul. which at the time...they didnt. Apart from..the instruction booklet said to insert the rudder tubes in and set at a height above the hull by "approx 1mm", surely not says me, but i dry fitted and then tried to rotate the rudder blade, so due to the pitch angle of the hull "V" shape, sure enough you barely got 10 degrees of turn before the rudder blade hit the hull. So I lifted the tubes and set at 5mm, this now gives a far better rudder turn and without having to file off part of the lower rudder blade to miss the hull.
Next thing to thow in a spanner was when I fitted the rudder servo and rudder support plate [item 31]. With this installed, it actually forced the rudder tubes rearward, thus meaning the rudder blades now angled forwards on the outside, hitting the props!
So. to get round this, easiest method to me was to re notch the rudder plate 31 and ease it forwards by approx 5mm. then once checked the rudder tubes were vertical again, simply added a couple of pieces of scrap cut plastic to engage in the transom notches as cut by manufacturer and fimally fully bond in the plate and rudder tubes.
PHEW !
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You live and learn they say! It's true. For days I have followed this thread, and wondered why on earth you guys were going on about sizing, uploading photos, and then commenting on them. I could never see any pics at all.
But then eureka, there they all were, as if by magic. Why? Because I was logged in. I guess somewhere it tells you that, but I never came across it!
Anyway I have prepared the formers/ribs for the hull today ( I don't know the nautical name, sorry ) and I almost made a mistake before I start. At the bottom of the kit box was a sheet of foam. I was going to bin it, but wondered why it had slots cut into it. It's only the jig for building the hull. Lucky escape. Must buck up. So tomorrow out with the glue. Wish me luck.
Glyn.
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Best of luck Glyn,
You should find that all the frames will sit in the jig and stay put. place the main keel piece in next to hold them loosley in place, then ease up one side at a time and insert the deck support pieces, remembering to "twist" them over and around the little hooks on the ends of the keel formers. dont be tempted to cut/reshape these as they act to hold the side panels of the hull in place later.
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Ok cheers.
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A nice gentle start in to the New Year.
Installed the navigation light casings.
Along with the Helmsman's Chair. Used a scale figure to get the footrest at right height. yep, helmsman will be, er "adjusted" to fit in to his role a little better, but this was straight out of the box, just needed his "leg length" as a test!
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Mast...The mast is built up of several layers [4] 2 inners and 2 outer covers. the inner layers have the "back piece" attached with 2 lugs to huld whilst drying. BUT this leave it difficult to trace the wiring through, so after initially trying their method as described in the instructions, I removed the back piece completely, glued on the 4th outer side panel and it then allows the two lamp carry brackets to be attached. the wiring can then be easily fed from the back, then it only needs a simple flat piece of plasticard bonded over the back to cover up, plus looks a lot better than having to file 4 laminate edges flat.
I also decided to file a curve front leading edge, looks much cleaner.
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Hey Steve,
Where did you get a sitting figure from? I can only find standing crew. Is it flexible, or did you make it yourself,
Nice finishing touch.
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the seated figures I found on ebay, did a simple search for 1/24 scale figures, came up with these, or standing options. Just need a little touch of adjustment and slight repaint should do the trick.
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Ah eBay it will be then. I tried all the model shops, just seem to have standing ones.
Thanks.
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Got round to making up the remaining seats for the rear cabin today. point to remember here, once you add the seat posts to the underside, set them in to the locating holes in the floor and allow glue to dry, so they set at correct distances to fit the holes after you take out for painting.
did a sneak shot through a window, just to give you a peek as to how they will look from outside. pretty good and clever thought went in to the kit, as which boat kits provide interiors at this price range?
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And the rear seats with a bit of colour. Just need to choose a colour for the walls, plus a few "wall items".
Checking the mount for the horn, noticed the hole was a little too large, so decided to sleeve the hole with a piece of plastruct tubing, looks far better, plus will be getting a hose too later.
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Havent forgotten about the hull.. its still being works on, the stabilit was applied on the lower seam as per instructions, then sanded, then a light layer of sanding filler to smooth out.. same goes for the join between hull plates at the bows. surprisingly enough very reworking needed here.
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The hull is having a nice coat of primer, so step on to something else whilst waiting for it to dry...
Radar.. The kist provides a nice scale looking radar unit, so with a bit of cutting and drilling....motorised. I decided to remote mount the motor under the forward cabin floor, as i did look to mount a micro geared one just underneath the cabin roof, but with all the high windows, was too easily seen, so opted for a thin driveshaft down to the motor instead.
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Right, going back over to the hull again, sorry to keep swapping about, but I like to keep busy whilst waiting for other bits to dry or set. It all makes for the bigger picture as no doubts some of the viewers here do the same. The instruction book is purely a guide,,,, or something to go back to when it looks completely wrong!
the hull has had a couple of light coats of plastic primer after sanding all the plastic surfaces to ensure good adhesion. I gave it a light "wet flat" with some 800 grit in the house test tank, well get aggro of the earhole if any flatting water reaches the carpets ! [oops].
As you can see, bows look good, just a few little nibs of filler to do, then final sanding before seeing it through to top coat/s. :-))
Considering this is basically 6 flat sheets of plasticard stuck together, it dont look three bad now in primer.
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Colour scheme chosen... I decided to rev things up a bit. The original kit design looks good in Orange, don't get me wrong, but after looking around on the web, found these images as my chosen alternative....not unless anyone else has any interesting colour schemes?
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No those colours look pretty good, I think. For a beginners simplicity I'm just going for all over orange. Well I am at the moment! Just looked in the bag of fittings should have been 8 screws for the hatch tabs, guess what, only 7. Scrabbled through biscuit tin of screws, found one that will do the job, but the head doesn't match. Do for now.
Motors and electronics have arrived, but still got to buy extra LED's and resistors. They can wait as I have spent my budget, and beyond, this week.
Regards, Glyn
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Thanks for that. trouble is, I do like the all orange look too. Its often a difficult decision what colours to use when there are so many options on a theme. Its different when doing a replica of a Fireboat or Lifeboat, as it "has" to be a certain colour scheme and thats that, But depending on location, Pilot boats seem to wear many different colour schemes.
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If i was you i would dry that primer off properly with either a hair drier or heat gun before you apply more primer as i guarantee you one thing the primer has absorbed some water as primer is porus...and it is not a good idea to rub filler or primer down with water.Wet flatting should only be used on gloss coats.
Dave
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I have worked in the trade for many years, and flatting primer can be done wet, especially if you are aiming for a very fine finish, as the dust does not clog the paper, it gets washed away with the water. No im not saying "dunk the hull in water, but merely keep washing the paper as you work. It also makes for easier cleaning up, a quick rinse under the tap and the hull in this example is now "clean", trying to clear up dry dust off a hull and wherever it has drifted too can take ages to clean up, even using an adapted hoover, as the next possibility is when you then go to put on a further coat of spray, the blast of air has the potential to find that elusive pocket of dust you missed and subsequently drop it all over your nice wet paint.
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...... "let your finger marks in the armrests subside" ......
Goodness :P....we don't event have armrests in OZ yet ....let alone 1200 W&D.......
OK.....I have always followed the same procedure as gregk9 in using an adequate amount of water to ensure the paper did not load up when sanding undercoat or primer paints......for small sections this included a constant drip/flow from the [kitchen sink tap] :-X
Warming & drying in the sun ensured I believe to be a total elimination of moisture prior to the next coat, be that a subsequent coat of undercoat or topcoat
Derek %)
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Ah to be in Oz. They've got sun in January. I'm jealous!
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Hi Derek,
Thanks for your reply. To be honest, yep, another mayhemmer jealous here too. What joy to just be able to leave an item outside to dry off !
In the UK, we have very few days in sucession where this "works", plus if you push your luck too long....look out the window....its now raining ...aarrgghh !
Er, fancy a house swap for a couple of years ?
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Mother Nature sometimes poses situations that defy logic >>:-(........
In OZ we can have ambient temperatures of 30 degrees C [in the shade], however place the object in the direct sunlight and the object will often reach temperatures of 40+ degrees C.......and the further North we go ...[up toward the land of ARrrrrty & BB], we can encounter humidity of 100%
So this can complicate the drying of undercoated surfaces that have been rubbed back with 1200 W&D + water washed ....as the perspiration from ones brow can drip onto the drying vessel :o
Let's hope BB may read this post & comment as he manages to build & paint model vessels in a far off Northern [high humidity] land.............
Derek
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I started on the cabin windows Saturday, but didnt get very far...The instructions say to fit the windows before painting the cabin...leaving the protective window film ON, then remove the film after painting completed.
However when trying the very first window panel in its aperture, the windows are a very loose fit, leaving a gap on 3 sides to be honest.
Now, when I first removed the window "blanks" I did purposely leave the little "end tails" that were left after laser cutting, thinking they may assist in holding the wondows in, or maybe best left till attempting to fit the windows, then you can file to fit so to speak. Well even with these tags in place, the perspex still fell straight through.
So, my option after fitting one window is...Im going to attach the outer nickel plated surrounds first to the window frame edge, thus making sure that when I bond in the perspex from inside, the window panel will then sit flush with the frame trim, as it will be this it bonds to better than the frame itself...
My first real error in sizing fit from manufacture... BUT not on my own, as someone else who is also building this kit has come across the same problem.
Ive attached a picture, tried to angle it and get light right so you can see the air gap round the perspex.
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Your quite right Steve,
I too started to fit windows yesterday, I'm still doing them! For a newbie like me they are not at all easy.
The frames are a loose fit in the ABS window cutouts. The Perspex is also a loose fit in its cutout. I found that if I tried to fit/glue both parts in place simultaneously, every time I turned the unit over the check the other side one of the windows would fall out(using canopy glue, so not quick setting) Further the Perspex itself is thinner than the ABS it's fitting into. This means the weights cannot be used to hold in place whilst adhesive is drying. It's also messy, well it is when I do it!
My method now is to fit the frame, allowing to dry, then offer up the Perspex from the inside having applied canopy glue to the edges first.
On aircraft I hate hinging, on boats looks the winner is to be windows. Of course I've a lot yet to do, all unknown, I just hope there's nothing worse.
Time will tell.
Have fun, Glyn
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Watching this with interest as thing one of these will be my next project.
Jon
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Hi Jon, Dont worry, you're not on your own, there are quite a few said same thing, thats why im detailling as much as poss, "warts n all" so hopefully you all are better informed and pre warned before you come across any slight glitch. have to say, so far, its only the window perspex being undersize thats been a negative. But after bonding on the outer nickel silver outer frames first, its only a matter of dropping the perspex in from the inside on a layer of glue n glaze, then they will sit flush with the frame and be watertight.
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I'll second that, definitely the best way.
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Steve,
Where did you buy your radar motor from, also the motor voltage and output RPM.
Bryan.
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Enjoying the build and taking in all the warts :-)) .
A member brought one to the lake yesterday.
He had from eBay.
Quite impressive with two 280 motors and the
springy couplings, once we subbed a receiver
and a7.2 stick for the ailing 6v sla.
A bit of increase in power with a slightly bigger
motor set up would give it more than scale speed.
A couple of us are looking to give it a go soon.
Ned
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the radar motor was of Ebay, even came with a remote switches circuit.
You can then run via the 5v reciever supply, or if you buy without, it will run quite merrily on either a single AA or twin AA cell arrangement, as having used them before on other builds. rotation speeds approx 40 -50 rpm, so fits in quite well scale speed wise too.
The second answer. The instructions recommend 400 size motors, so I ordered a pair of graupner speed 400's. I am also changing the couplings for huco types, as didnt fancy the one "springy bit" thrying to unwind when driven in reverse for the twin prop setup.
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Well, window glazing added to cabin roof windows, dont look three bad, but ive given the inside of the glazing a coat of tint paint, smoke em down a bit, so will show up better against the body colour, as most of these craft have tinted glass in them now.
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I contacted Dock Stavaret, a Swedish shipyard that builds pilot boats, as I was interested in finding out about the finish/colours they used inside their wheelhouse/bridge.
I got this amazing reply:
" Dear Glyn
I will do my best to answer your questions.
The interior colors are much depending on the customers selection, so it does depend a bit on which boat you are replicating. However in general we are quite often using the following painting scheme:
Roof in wheelhouse: Black non-woven fabric
Floor: Plastic mat Tarkett Granit 283 Grey
Bulkheads below windows in cox position: Wood veneer Formica K7016 Finn Beech
Bulkheads in windows level and above cox position: Black paint or leather imitation. RAL 9005
Complete instrumentation panel: Depending on customer, for German Pilots always Red RAL 3024 otherwise Black RAL 9005
Roof in Pilot area: Non woven light grey
Floor: Plastic mat Tarkett Granit 283 Grey
Bulkheads: Wood veneer Formica K7016 Finn Beech
Window frames: Black paint or leather imitation. RAL 9005
Hope that this helps!"
So now you know. And the guy wants a photo of a finished model to have on his desk!
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1/25th scale wood veneer...hhmm. LOl. %).
Superb research Glynn.
WELL DONE !
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Formica?
Is it still available in the UK?
But not at 1/25th methinks
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Im thinking along the lines of a tan/beige paint colour, have some Tamiya which is close to "beech".
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First application of hull colour now on, the sides will be different colour but wanted to check for any irregularities which "usually" only show up once the final colour goes on, so learnt to do a test coat first, let that fully dry, then inspect again. O0
yes, few bits I can see need sorting!
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First coats of the side panel yellow now on, masking removed before paint dries too much. will then fine flat and fully recheck before final paint coats and laquering.
pic added to demonstrate colour layout im aiming or with this build.
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Whilst the hull paint is drying fully, time to sort the rudder system out. The kit supplies some silicone tube which is noted to be cut to 10mm [1cm], this then sits on top of the rudder pivot inside the hull, acting as a water seal I presume. BUT if you cut to this size, the rudder arm will only sit halfway on to of the shaft. So cut to 5mm, still acts as a seal but allows the rudder arm to fully seat on the pivot shaft.
I have fitted a metal geared rudder servo, not wanting to skimp on something so inaccessible once built, better to fit good now than struggle to replace later in use. The servo system was tested using a servo tester to ensure as much rudder turn angle as possible and the optimum fulcrum point on the servo arm too. this turns out to be 2nd hole out from the centre, due to the shortness of the supplied rudder arms.
I did notice some slight movement in the rudder servo mount, so have made a support strut out of some of the scrap plastic sheet, thus linking the servo plate with the hull to reduce movement and reduce risk of fractures in the plastic later too....hopefully.
Pics taken to show rudder movement both inside and out....dropping the rudder tubes to 5mm instead of instructions 1mm has improved rudder swing angle , plenty in fact , but better to have a bit of turn in hand for emergencies !
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Step railings.... The kit supplies some nice nickel silver packs of railings, complete with some upright bars which need to be added.....PLUS on one of the plastic sheets.....a template to hold all the bits in place whilst you solder them together.....How goods that then? O0
Ok so some of you are going to say, whats the use of a plastic template when soldering railings together >>:-(? BUT think about it.....It is only designed for use on this one kit....so plenty of life in it for this job...but saves hours making your own up....Thanks Aero Naut ! :-))
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Nice one. Wondered what they were for Steve.
Trying to fit the lower stern shaped piece. I'm afraid to say it's not fitting to good. There's going to be gaps! I've been struggling a bit getting the Stabilit into some of the joints and crevices without making a dreadful mess. I'm about there now though. But going to have to spend time cleaning up the outer hull panels.
I know it's grindable and sandable, but worried about scoring the outer face of the plastic as I don't want score marks showing through the paint. Generally enjoying the journey, well most of it!
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if any of the resin glue has seeped out on to the outer surfaces. try putting 2 or 3 layer strips of masking tape alongside the bit you gonna sand off, then if you angle towards the hull sides, you will hopefully protect with the masking.
failing that... revell "plasto " filler is good, easy to apply, quick drying and easy to sand afterwards. it doesnt dry as hard as the full size car body stuff.
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Time to finish off the prop shafts, I have used Graupner "oilers" in the past but cant seem to get my hands on supply of late, so am trying the "caldercraft" versions on this build.
So rather than having to remove rudders and drive couplings to lubricate the prop shafts on a routine basis, I try my best to fit these lubricators to the outer shaft cases when possible. Ok, for the brave, you can always do a "diy" and solder on a small brass tube that does exactly the same job, but id sooner play safe and use these.
Its as simple as choose the correct diameter choice for the shafts, clamp them round with the screws provided, then run a 2mm drill down through the centre of the oiling tube...blow out the debris before replacing the driveshaft, add either the waterresistant lubricant provided, or use oil, whichever is your preferred choice.
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The main cabin outer window frames now all fitted, will allow to dry fully before adding the glazing.
Ive also now added a reflective strip along both sides of the cabin and added the "Pilot" letters [Nickel plated]. I was thinking of painting them, but after seeing them act as a shadow letter on the reflective, will leave alone, they stand out when they need to. :-))
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heres an easy version of anti slip deck I mentioned. 1/ mark the deck out where all the static objects are to stand....as always a gap between these and the anti slip.2/ make paper templates. 3/ cut out from wet & dry sandpaper.. ive used 180 grit for these..
4/ cover the underside of the sandpaper with a good waterproof glue and allo to go tacky. 5/ attach to deck and when possible, turn over and add weight to ensure all edges bond down.
next stage will be to prime all the deck, then once dry. add top colour/s.
Ive used this method a few times now, as using the "texture finish" spray cans, can be a bit tricky to get a nice even finish..
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Why is it...you see a colour combination in your "minds eye", but the moment you apply it....."yeuck"! >>:-(
Ive tried 4 different colour combinations to get the best suitable match on the main deck...And to be honest, Ive reverted back to what was the original colours...White [plastic] and dark grey [of the sanding sheet]. But with the main colour scheme, it really does seem to work well once it all slots together :-)). So attached 1 pic of the new colour scheme, but more work needed on the "white", this is only a base wash.
Next toy today was the front spot lamp pod. Id built it some weeks ago, but got round to adding the led's.
This has to be one for a "Sunset Sail" Guys, dont forget still another to go up on the cabin roof yet ! see what you think...
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Sorry Guys, Im currently attacking some of the wiring and lighting, so its not at a stage to photograph as yet as im working out the best routes for cabling so as not to intrude or be too visible shall I say....but stay tuned. :-))
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After a few trials. Heres my setup, "according to how you read the instructions". I just have the dummy mooring light to attach on the top. By leaving "out" the rear mast sandwich of plastic, it gives you extra room inside for cable runs. I have installed 9 cables and room for id say at least another 3 !!
All ive done then is cut a cover strip off the scrap plastic to finish off the back of the masthead.
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Ive now wired up the cabin navigation lights, put a temp link in with the rest and sat them all on the cabin to check the results.... :-))
I just have to wire in the dash panel lights in forward cabin, plus me thinks a roof lamp in rear pilot compartment. O0
I have also made a replacement roof box for the searchlight, the original one might of been ok if left static, but decided to link this via a micro servo to the rudder control, so as boat turns, so does the lamp....hhmmm ;)
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Roof searchlight. I have to say, this is definately a kit on its own. Looks like a lot of bother and I do admit to seriously looking at a robbe searchlight I had in my spares box....thinking to substitute it :o...BUT have given it a go ! ;)
I would say follow the kit instructions carefully, but dont bend the fold lines on the brackets till you have soldered in the brass pivots, then solder in the pivot tubes....then fold the brackets.
The inner "raise/lower" tube is rather thin on its inner core, so I decided to run a single cable down it for safety, and just solder the negative cable of the lamp to the pivot rod of the inner bar.....inside the lamp housing. then just solder the earth back on.....but underneath....inside the cabin area. 8)
the kit then gives you the option of 1/ leaving as is. 2/ remote control. as you have option for a/rotate & b/ tilt.
My option is to fix the tilt, but allow to rotate, ....via a rudder arm clamped to underside of the ivot tube and a rod link to a micro servo....not wanting to overcomplicate I will link the light servo with the rudder, so as boat turns, the searchlight turns with the steering. :-))
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Very useful pics Steve. Your not wasting your time blogging this I'm watching avidly.
Your efforts is invaluable
Regards Glyn.
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Hi Glyn. I appreciate this kit is a bit of a "test piece" for quite a few viewers out there. Ive not seen any other build blogs on this particular kit. yes its a pity im not building "exactly" straight from the box, but adding my own ideas as I go. But this happens in time as you first see a boat kit....you already start thinking of improvements or modifications to either make a later/newer version or to create something totally different, just using the basic hull and cabin work as a base.
Yes I was going to build "as kit"but after sourcing images of pilot boats on the web, I saw a colour scheme that could also work, which will give it a slightly different appearance. :-)
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Ive now finally got round to installing the dash lights, 2 led's wired in series. works well, see the pics, but also note something else from the pics and kindly remember to do one things I didnt ! PAINT the inside of the lit area black before glueing the lower dash panel in....as you can see from last image, the light does show through the cabin panel slightly.....my mistake, so dont you go doing the same !
I decided against trying to peel the panel back out and possibly damaging something...
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Ive been wondering about the layout on the top of the rear main cabin, as the instructions depict a set of handrails, but no apparent physical way of getting up there. So after studying things a bit, ive come up with what I think would work, especially if this was used as an additional "height" platform for vessel access by the pilots for example.
So Ive cut an access hole in the rear of the upper deck. Sourced a scale ladder and then after a slight modification to the original rear handrail [ by putting a 90 degree bend in it] it looks the part. Ive also made up a secondary rail to fit alongside the access hole, just to prevent risk of a pilot falling sideways too.
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Good call. Loving the build.
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Thanks for comment. I could just see all that roof just sitting there without purpose [or access]. was a shame not to get it involved somehow. :-))
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Sorry for the delay in post updates, but one of the misfortunes of being a model boat club secretary is "renewals", yep only comes round once a year, but takes such an age to squeeze all the payments and forms back in, then forward those who also want insurance cover too. never mind, all done and dusted for another 11 months, then i start pestering for money again. LOL.
Right. ive been looking at the servo system i wanted for the main searchlight and think this seems to work fairly well, plus using a micro servo, its pretty well hidden up in the main cabin roof, so not too visible through the windows. You will also notice a liferaft pod...sourced from my bits box, think it was a Robbe one. All i did was make up a couple of cradle mounts, will add a couple of over straps before mounting fully.
Ive also added a worklight to the brow of the forward main cabin roof, so lights up the for'd deck area.
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Looking better by the day Steve. :-))
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Managed to get a bit more done, the rear access ladder now in place [not yet painted]. Ive added the stern light, but mounted on a short length of hollow tubing, looks better than simply glued to the upper deck floor. Ive also mounted the stern work lamp, so no moans over cant see where going as they step out the rear cabin door !
Also added another image of the main mast, think it looks quite nice when lit.
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continued with some of the electrical wiring. the stern light, pilots cabin interior/roof lights and stern work lamp now operational. heres a few views. cabin looks good being lit. used "warm white" for a softer tone inside.
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Hi Steve,
Do I see wires going to the horn? I didn't realise that it was a working one! And the overhead deck light was that in your kit? I've not seen one in mine as yet.
Looks very good now. I'm at the point of wiring up the mast but reckon I'll have to enlarge the holes to get a pair of wires through.
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If you leave out the rear strips of the mast, it allows extra room, so once its wired up, simply glue a flat strip of plastic card on the back afterwards. thats what i did, otherwise, yes barely room for 3 wires. I managed to get 7 down.
If you check the instructions and look at the mast sections....the rear cover/supports are loosly held in place by 3 little joining tags, cut the tags AND remove the tags and rear supports. The mast once glue has dried is quite robust and will take the handling to get all wires through.
Sorry but no, horn not wired, but bent a piece of brass rod to replicate an air pipe.
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Sorry for the distinct lack of updates, but a minor issue at one turned in to a rather more expensive one, that took some time to resolve.
So just a small update to start back with, as not had chance to touch the build since my last post. Coxwain now in post, throttles added and something to steer with of course.
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Todays little trick is to install and connect the servo to rotate the roof mounted searchlight.
This you have many options.
1/ rotate only.[with light]
2/rotate & raise lower [with light]
3/ static [but lights up].
Option 1 it is for me, as i didnt want to overfill the main cabin with r/c stuff. so slid a prop locking collar on the outer shaft to hold in place, stop it lifting up out of the mount. Then added a rudder servo rod arm lower down, so it give a good run to the servo. servo : "Micro" as its not doing much so needs only lightweight operation. 2 cross bars to secure the servo to, then bend a small length of brass rod to link the servo to the light.
This I will link via "Y" lead to the rudder servo, so as the vessel turns, the light turns too, touch of the old "Citroen DS" here, for those of us who remember them !
YES, you could use option 2, but need some fancy r/c gear as you would need 2 channels just to play with the light, im sticking to my 5 channel Planet system, as I use the transmitter on many of my fleet so saves having to carry too much kit.
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Not much done today, been too busy keeping an eye on the house and fences with all this wind about.
However, finished off the liferaft container and mounts.
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I have finally recieved the sound unit ive been long awaiting, so can finally get back inside the hull and kick start the main motor wiring and main power panel.
the motors have been fitted with suppressor packs and ive added some connectors to the motor wiring to make it a bit easier if i need to remove the motor controller at any time. Ive opted for a twin motor controller from Action, along with a power control panel I already had surplus "in stock".
the battery tray has been secured down as recommended in the instructions, by a "non permanent" method, so part of the hull can still be accessed if it springs a leak I suppose! This I tacked down with some silicone sealant.
the sound unit comes from "banggood", after seeing and hearing some of the video clips, I thought it worth a punt, plus its easily programmable with different engine sounds and horns, all available FOC off the company website along with the pc program needed for reprogramming the sound unit.. Ok so appreciate its not anywhere near as good as a proper Action sound unit, but space and weight is limited in this vessel to leave it with some hint of performance, thats why I opted for this one. Time will tell if it can stand up to the rigors of a boat location.
Power wise? Well as you can see from the pictures, Im going to opt for 11.1v Lipo, rather than the 7.4v suggested. battery tray has more than enough capacity, but will see how the "water test" goes shortly to check on waterline level.
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First job I needed to do before the main deck gets anywhere near the hull, is to sort out a suitable tub to run the front twin spotlamp wiring in, as this is bonded in to the deck, underneath the spotlamp housing, so hidden from view, but by using a tube, if the wiring ever needs changing, or additional wires...they simply slip down this tube. i used some car washer hose, flexi enough to bend to shape, lightweight and cheap!
second task today was a full water test, so after a part fill, the hull was lowered in. NO leaks and sits quite level too. Admittidly still the weight of the superstructure to add, but now I know the battery size and location is good to go.
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Any progress? Too interesting to lose track off.