Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Yachts and Sail => Topic started by: flyte on December 10, 2016, 11:13:18 am
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Hi everyone, I'm a complete noobie to pond yacht's and would like a little help. I recently bought a pond yacht as a restoration project, I've restored lots of antiques of every description but this is my first boat. This brings up a whole new set of questions, like do I restore her to be sailed ? or is she like me....."past it" :o and only fit for display ? will the old glue hold up if she gets wet again ? what age is she ? where was she made ? do I go for a full restoration or a sympathetic makeover ?
From what I can see she looks like plank on frame but there is no access to the inside, the hull measures 28 1/2" plus the bowsprit 5" (making it 33 1/2" overall). It measures 7 1/4" across the beam and the depth from deck to bottom of keel is 9". The mast is 37 1/2" from deck to top.
Anyhow, I'll post a couple of photo's and maybe you can help , she's seen better days but haven't we all :-))
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Could be a SOLID hull ?
Bill
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Hi Bill, I dont think so, it feels too light and it sounds very hollow when you tap the hull.
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Hi Flyte
you should get in touch with the Vintage Model Yacht Group
http://www.vmyg.org.uk/ (http://www.vmyg.org.uk/)
they are the specialists on old pond yachts.
Jim
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Hi Jim, I sent a message and some photos to Russel Potts a few days ago, I'm hoping he gets back to me. Then I found this forum and thought I might as well bug you lot as well {-) I cant wait to get started but want to gather info first so I have an idea of what I'm doing, tbh I dont know my mizzen poop from my leaward foresail thingy but I'm learning.
The main thing for me right now is to find out as close as I can what it actually is and should look like.
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Hi ya Flyte
are you a true Geordie - just like me :-) - born within spitting distance of the Tyne - there are a good few of us on here. Hey, have you got your Geordie passport :-) :-)) :-))
Been looking at the pics of the yacht you have put on here and judging by, what appears to be a 'crack' in the hull woodwork - indicates to me to that this is what is known as a 'bread and butter built hull'. Instead of the layers of wood being horizontal, they have been done vertical.
The hull reminds me of those that come from the plans which were published by My Hobbies Weekly. I have had a search on the websites such as Ebay etc; and there are one or two which come close to yours - but - not exactly the same. The other thing I did was type in 'Model Pond Yacht Plans' into google search images and there are one or two which come close to what yours looks like.
Another fellow Geordie - bit further South that Newcastle but not near the Wear :-)
John
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Hiya Bluebird, I am indeed a true Geordie, born at St Mary's Hospital Newcastle, bred up the coast, now in Whitley Bay and retired :-)
Thanks for the info, the more I read the more confused I get ! bread and butter ? dont you mean stottie and lurpak ? uhhhhh more reading. I might get a better idea when I strip the paint from the hull. I'll get the blowtorch out tomorrow and.........I'm kidding !
I've just had a very close inspection of the hull and there are no splits, maybe its the old paint making it look that way.
Al giv a a bit of a scrape wi me breed nife n see hoo it gans the morra, a winit hort a tho, al gan canny...or I could always use nitromors !
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hi there Flyte
garn canny with the breed neef when ya scraping the owld hull - best give it a bit rub with some coarse sand piarpa forst :-)
Ive put a link on to the guy who is building this model - it might give you an idea of bread and butter - so best not send your lass to the Co-op for some lorpak just yit :-)
http://www.dickwightman.com/modelyachting/footloose/buidlingfootloose.html
john
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Aaaah now I get it.... bread as in slices of wood.....butter as in glue !
I dont think my boat is built this way though, it sounds very hollow, like its planked, and considering the hefty lead weight on the keel its still pretty light (ok... I have to stop tapping it now).
Tomorrow I start stripping the paint off and hopefully it will be obvious, yes, even to me !
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The suspense got too much so I went down to the shed for a bit of a scrape, about 1 inch down the side I found a thin red, almost fluorescent band of what must be glue but no pins/nails so it must be "bread and butter" construction, you were right :-)) I'm just amazed at how light it is. I had to go through 5 layers of paint, white, cream, white, green and beige which looks like an undercoat.
The wood is Mahogany, of that I'm sure. Any idea what sort of glue it would be ? and would it hold up to going back into the water ?
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:-) Possibility it might be Cascamite? or that aero glue ... erm ... some may remember what you call that - a forerunner of Cascamite - best bet is to strip the paint back, see what state the hull is in and then seal the hull. ~Various options to sealing the hull; no doubt the forum members will suggest ways as well.
John
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In 1965 we were still using Animal Glue in school.......you know.....to liquefy the glue, it's in a cast iron pot that sits in a heated boiling water container
The glue was made from horses hoofs ;D.......[the pungent odour is only noticeable when the gelatinous goopy glue is hot] an immensely strong joint, but not waterproof
Derek
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwiu-bWLtOrQAhXMUrwKHSbHDK4QFggrMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FAnimal_glue&usg=AFQjCNEHKWt2smekpVjQb_m_TGexVxE5Lw&bvm=bv.141320020,d.dGc
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hmmmm glue, I've used hide/animal glue many times, I repair guitars and sometimes nothing else will work, though 90% of the time I use waterproof tightbond. Hide glue is always a shade of brown and dries semi translucent. I also remember cascamite from being a kid, we used it making wooden molds for fibreglass, as i remember it was a reddish brown colour so maybe that's it.
You can still buy cascamite in powder form,
I'll see if I can get a close up to show the colour tomorrow, it really is bright red.
I never thought I'd be showing people photo's of my glue {-)
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Yes I can remember using this pink glue in the 50s when apprentice. It was a 2 part glue developed for wooden aircraft production WW2. The cream powder mixed with water and spread on one surface, the red liquid painted on the other surface. Press the two together and it set quite quickly, but not instantaneous. The name escapes me but it was ether Casco or Cascamite. Hammer.
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This is the glue I was thinking of/ Resorcinol Glue
http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/ww2peopleswar/stories/33/a7336433.shtml
john
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I've been "trawling" through the old plans on Google and going over photos etc and while there are loads of similar hulls I cant find a keel/rudder the same as mine.
I've been "pondering" (sorry) her age and from the brass fittings and the age of the wood and finish, I'm guessing 40's or 50's
I'm pretty sure the glue used on the hull is Cascamite and would assume that once the hull is refinished it will be watertight and usable.
Lots of interesting comments and info ! thank you guys.
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We used Aerolite two part
Mix the cream and paint on
The hardener when building
our PBK canoe frames.
Anyone remember them?
Percy Blandford Kayaks.
Also used on my Bell Woodworking
GP14 Dinghy kit.
My first kit build and at 1:1 scale.
Ned
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In 1965 we were still using Animal Glue in school.......you know.....to liquefy the glue, it's in a cast iron pot that sits in a heated boiling water container
The glue was made from horses hoofs ;D.......[the pungent odour is only noticeable when the gelatinous goopy glue is hot] an immensely strong joint, but not waterproof
Derek
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwiu-bWLtOrQAhXMUrwKHSbHDK4QFggrMAA&url=https%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FAnimal_glue&usg=AFQjCNEHKWt2smekpVjQb_m_TGexVxE5Lw&bvm=bv.141320020,d.dGc
AAh yes! That takes me back, the aroma pervading though my Fathers workshop at Liverpool Uni he would use nothing else - he didn't believe in all these new fangled things - apart from the original araldite.
LB
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When you think of the musical instruments going back to the 17th century that are still as beautiful, just as strong, and play even better, it makes you think.
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hi all
I know its a bit off topic - but - I often wonder about today's generation of school children, and how they are missing out on certain subjects in education such as woodwork, metal work, tech drawing - those of us from the old school - may still remember that we used to get all of these three subjects in the curriculum each week. I am a firm believer that these subjects give us all a good grounding for life skills. I wonder if the new generation know the difference between HB pencils and what a T square is for :-)
I mean old glues bring back a lot of memories - today they would use glue for other purposes other than what its actually for :-) I bet the PC brigade are proud of themselves for what they have done to the younger generation and what they have taken from them.
John
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Its an absolute tragedy, our kids are being taught the values of Politicians, they all think their future will be wearing a tie, sitting back and raking in money, the world cant work like that (except London does). We rely to heavily on the money movers and have turned out backs on honest work. We have been sold out, so many places that made this country rich and brought about social change for the better are now virtually derelict and forgotten.
I was using a lathe and a milling machine when I was 12, I cast my first sinker mold in aluminum when I was 12, I stabbed myself in the hand with my first chisel when I was 13 :embarrassed: it gave me a certain outlook on life and made realise there is no free ticket.
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It was certainly happening in the late eighties as my CDT (Craft Design Technology) teacher who got me into model making through some old Military Modelling magazines he gave me said he had a budget of £80 for the academic year for materials and replacement parts like saw blades!
It was the height of the business and computers eighties and our classes were rationed on what we could make. I remember in my last year of primary school being very envious of the first year of secondary school kids showing off their paint scrapers that they made in CDT. Made from a piece of sheet steel with two bits of acrylic stuck on the sides to make a handle sounds like fifteen minutes work to us adults, but to kids experienced only in cardboard and maybe some balsa, this was cutting edge technology! Anyhow, in my first year of secondary school the budget was so tight only one of the four form groups could make scrapers and my group was one of the unlucky ones <:(
I have heard about a design and tech teacher that had to blunt the tips of stanley knife blades to prevent risk of injury through cuts, I assume that indeed many of our young'ns are being humoured through design technology. I recall hearing it on Radio4 a few years back.
Trequire some common sense
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the world cant work like that (except London does).
A part of London does, the rest of the Capital gets on with it like everyone else.
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Yes I meant no offense, I've worked in London, have friends in London, and its an outrage what our politicians have in the past and are doing now, it really is a social cleansing, expanding the culture of greed that dominates their idea of Utopia, a home for the rich with no place for anyone beneath their social standing. When I said "London" I was wrong, I meant of course the City and its Financial institutions, I apologise.
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Hi I remember school from the the beginning of the 50's,I liked woodwork and the sciences and English but liking woodwork was regarded as having failed early on in life! And that was by fellow school pupils! But much as now I thought my own thoughts and got on with what I liked.
Later we had a circular saw but you had to be supervised to use it, which I would very much go along with anyway. I still have the boxes I made for my Meccano set over 60 years ago, still has my Meccano in as well.
I learnt most of what I remember from a stand in woodwork teacher who was very practical and showed you simple ways of doing things. Our regular head of woodwork was a lazy skiving git and frequently off work, I caught him out once as well.
When you had made something you paid a notional sum for the wood you had used and that seemed to fund things.
regards Roy
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Where wood work etc. is taught it is taught to the girls . The boys get cooking. {-) {-)
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Girls swinging hammers and boys baking cakes, the world has gone mad thanks to our PC Politicians. I agree absolutely that everyone should be given equal opportunities in life but using our education system to "reverse" our gender roles is dangerous and short sighted.
Anyhoo...... before I get booted off the forum in my first week %) I should get back to boats !
I started stripping the paint from the hull yesterday, 5 coats of various colours, each one tougher than the last. I went down the Nitromors route, giving her 2 coats and left for 40 minutes.......damn ! that paint just laughed at me ! the top coat came off ok but the second must have been developed at NASA, I'm sure it would stand up to a nuclear blast, I ended up scraping through it and applying more nitro, this went no better, the second from last coat is green "Kryptonite" or something, so today I get stuck in again. I was joking earlier about the blowtorch but .........
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Hi Flyte, I have just restored (like last week) a 30 inch home made clockwork boat from this period and getting the paint down to the wood took a day and I eventually resorted to my random orbital sander to finish the job. The paint had failed unevenly but never the less the guy who made it had done well with the resources he had in the early 50's.
I find the decks a problem, not in stripping back but over the years they have absorbed character and tone so I tend to clean them up, repair and match and leave them as slightly stained but well preserved. A bit like me!
Always nice to see a model brought back to life again.
regards Roy
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Hi Roy and thanks, I'm going to try to keep the character of the boat as far as possible, I have given the deck a good look over and had gentle rub with steel wool, it looks as though it will come up nicely followed by a coat or two of yacht varnish. I've stripped all the brasswork off now except for the rudder flange which is screwed and glued in but its going to look good, a quick rub with steel wool and its clean but keeps its character ( I love old brass).
I've done a lot of writing slopes and boxes over the years which need a very similar approach, most are Mahogany and brass, but I wont be using shellac this time {-) I dont want a submarine. Having said that I've also done a lot of fishing rods which have lasted over a hundred years in their original shellac.
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Hi, I had a tip some years ago from a lovely man who built /restored model yachts. He used to finish with either teak oil or good polish but put on gently with fine steel wool and polished up afterwards. You get a nice smooth finish.
Just remembered his name, Ken Impey, we only corresponded so I never met him.
regards Roy
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The only problem with the lost art of woodworking today (taught at school) is that when and if a youngster manages to find a house he can afford, he cannot tackle even the most basic diy skill, I have just built a unit that fits inside the wife side of a basic wardrobe I built over 10 years ago, I measured 3-4 times before drilling, the problem I had was relying on the wife to follow a basic instruction, hold it against the line (which she didn't) so its not as good as would have liked, in all this my eldest stood on the stairs watching, though I seriously do not believe he could construct the most basic of items even after spending two years at bury college on an engineering course.
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I love teak oil, I finish guitar fretboards with it and a few body's, it brings out the grain and protects the wood, I also love shellac, its not easy to work with but when you get it built up its beautiful, a deep rich shine that makes wood glow. but I think I've made my mind up now that I'll be using yacht varnish on the deck, it means I can keep the character and put on a hard wearing waterproof finish.
Hi warspite, I feel really sorry for our kids and grandkids, there's a great satisfaction in being capable with handskills that their going to miss out on, not to mention paying someone else every time you need a shelf putting up. When my Son left school I fought tooth and nail to get him an apprenticeship, he's a joiner and good at his job, not one of his friends got a trade and they move from job to job with no reason to have pride in their work.
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Flyer, very sorry for side tracking your thread slightly - but - it was the memory of the animal glue; school and woodworking - and making a pencil box in woodworking class - it was that big that me mother could use it as a sewing box. Its still around somewhere to this day :-) - we had to do dovetail joints on it - aye I can remember it vividly. I come from a family of boat builders and my dad's comment was "what type of saw did you use to cut the dovetails out? or was it your teeth you used as they are a bit slack :-)
To get back on to track - do you think your yacht is a home made yacht?
Are there any evidence of labelling on the deck? or, does it look like I say - a home made one? or timber, glue and paint from Swan Hunters shipyard? and the tinsmiths making all the brass fittings?
Don't forget back in the good old days - paints had lead in it O0 so take care.
John
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Hi, our children do need basic skills, my son went off to University a long while ago, he is 50 now. But I taught him how to cook 6 different cheap meals which made him very popular with young ladies as well. When he was 14 I would take him to work with me if I was working on a Saturday.
But he grew up assisting me in general home DIY. Later in his late teens I gave occasional lectures and he assisted. Many young men are confident in their abilities but I made him competent as well.
I found it gave me great pleasure to see him grow up and I am off to visit him in Oz next month for me to assist him in a new model railway project.
And enjoy his cooking!
regards Roy
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Hi bluebird, I've got the paint stripped and all the brass work off, the hull is Mahogany, the keel is Mahogany faced ply, no sign of any maker or label but the brass parts are definitely manufactured not home made. The keel also looks to be professionally made the way the lead has been cast in, the hull I'm not sure about, it is as you said bread and butter construction, perhaps the hull was made from plans and the other components bought.
Hi Roy, I absolutely agree, you must be very proud of him as I am of my Son and Daughter. The trip to Oz sounds brilliant, I hope you bring back lots of photo's, but remember to look under the dunny seat for spiders :o
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Disappointed I got nothing done today, my back is just chronic, cant sit, cant stand, cant lay down, might try hanging by my feet like a bat. Ah well, 9pm is whiskey time, not long to go :-))
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hi ya mate,
I have been having a bit more dig around - about the source of your yacht. If the yacht was made in the North East - I wonder whether the plans came from the 'old' Newcastle upon Tyne Model Shop - they used to sell their own selection of plans. Although their plans were mainly for planes but I do know they did a selection for yachts and powerboats - I know this is a bit of longshot, but, there is a lad I know worked in the shop and I am sure he is a member of Paddy Freeman's model boat Club. So it may pay you walk along and see if he is still there - he may just be able to help you if he is still there at that Club.
John
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Thank you John :-)) I just had a look on Google maps and its not too far from me but their site says they meet from Easter to September so it might have to wait a while.
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Tree questions to you flyte ok2
1. why do you need to wait until 2100 hours [9:00 PM in general public time] to start on the :P Whiskey?
2. how do you manage typing messages here on MBM when postulating as being suspended downwards {-) by your feet?
3. when painting whilst being suspended downwards and looking upwards like a crane [Bird specie with long slender necks]. don't the paint drips go down your nose?
Derek
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Let me say a big hello to Wollongong down under something in OZ and thank you for your questions. I'll answer questions 2 and 3 first...... mate, your the victim of a huge conspiracy, their hiding the truth from you, its you lot that are upside down O0 you just dont know it. Did you really think they put velcro on your boots for fashion purposes ?
To answer question 1...... I'll start drinking at any time if your offering to buy the drinks !
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Uuuuuughh My first problem and its paint :(( an old friend of mine came round with a tin of wood undercoat and insisted it was the bee's knee's and I had to try it. I gave some scrap wood a coat and it looked just the job, a nice thick neutral coat that would cover a lot of blemishes in the old hull. Once the hull was sanded down I applied one coat and took it back in doors to keep it warm (ish) its now been 30 hours and its just nasty, you cant rub it down, wet n dry clogs as soon as you touch it, its very very soft. It changed colour quickly when I applied it and was touch dry in a couple of hours so I'm sure its fully dry now, its been next to a radiator all this time.
It's was made by Leyland, a good Company, and the tin looks new, maybe it was never meant to be rubbed down ! there's not much info on the tin.
I'll give it one more day then its a scrape down job, but in fairness I was only using it as a filler anyway so not that much lost, I just dont want it staying there under a top coat still soft and nasty.
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I just had to leap in here, having retrained to be a Woodwork/Metalwork/TD teacher after injury on duty ended my Police career in the early seventees. In the end spent 38 happy years teaching CDT up to 'A' Level and head of Technology Department. Finally specialising in teaching very difficult children...'Life Skills'
Practical subjects, including CDT, Music, Drama, Needlework, Cookery (Home Ec)and so on have been given the chop many times as Governments and Head teachers try to make a name for themselves and save a few bob. The fact is, not every child can be a Doctor, Dentist, Architect, Politician etc and while they still try to concentrate on these subjects they keep coming back to the fact that nearly everything we humans in the world need to live and use and cook and build a house with ,have been designed, made and tested by a practical, skilled and inventive person... Usually those people have been initially taught by a woodwork or technical teacher, or is just naturally brilliant, like a lot of good model makers.
Coming back to the glues, Cascamite is and was a white powdered resin glue formulated for wood that needed to withstand being soaked most of the time. AeroLite was a two part resin glue used on later aircraft like the Hurricane and the Mosquito. Animal (or Hoof) is the broken down bones, hair etc, usually from Cows leftovers and is heated to make it soft. It is one of the oldest glues in our arsenal and, as was said, is still the very best for musical instruments, because it dries very hard as it cools but becomes quite brittle, which is good if you are a violin and need to resonate. It is not waterproof although similar versions, more refined like Pearl Glue came along in the early 1900s and was used for aircraft too. A white glue, not unlike PVA in consistency was also around being what they called Casein glue.(Made from Fish and Milk!)
The old yacht, if it is the age we think would more than likely be Aerolite or one of the very early two parters, a bit like epoxy. Remember that the early petroleum adhesives like Bostik and the like go way back as well. This was very good for Bread and Butter construction and was cheap enough for hobby-ists to buy. Products made from Tar, Pitch and Bitumen were also around (Look at an old ships caulking)
With this old hull I would do as little damage to the hull as possible. Clean away the paint and fill any cracks or splits. The old glue can stay where it is if it is sound as recoating the hull with newer finishes will give it back its waterproofing anyway. If it is hollow it may be possible to make an access hatch in the deck to seal the inside with some form of resin SP113, Z-Poxy, GRP or similar if you feel the need to stabilise the insides.
Clearly it was built as a 'Set the rudder and go' pond yacht and if you are a perfectionist and want it like it used to be, stick with that, but if you can get inside there is room for modern R/C and a few upgrades but keep the style and the Oldy-Worldy' look and value the same.
Could be a nice project.
Lesson Over boys, tuck shops open!!!..........Ron.
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Hi Flyte
Just been to Ron's Tug shop and they haven't any one penny gobstoppers, they only had 3d Jubilee orange ices
I was hoping someone would come in and advise you to paint the yacht with ZEpoxy to seal the hull before you painted it and as Ron has suggested - opening a hole up in the deck to pour some Epoxy in there to stabilise the hull.
As far as your radio is concerned, have a look in Phill's Model Shop, North Shields and think about 2.4 sets. They aren't that expensive.
John
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Sits quietly.... trying not to fidget and listens, avoids eye contact just in case questions come his way........."thank you Sir".
Hiya Ron, thank you for the glue info, the boat itself is sound, nothing nasty anywhere, I am giving her a "sympathetic" restoration, I always try to keep the character of anything I restore (within reason).
I have restored all manner of things, according to the missus I'm a hoarder who spends more time in his shed than the house and lives in his own little museum full of junk ! HA ! she knows nothing ! (just dont tell her I said so).
I've restored dozens of fishing rods dating back to Victorian times, I've restored guitars going back to the same period, some of them very valuable, I've restored many many writing slopes and boxes going back to the 18th Century and more vintage camera's than I can remember. I've made replacement parts to a high standard for all of these and used many types of finish, shellac being my favourite. I've also made models ( I have a Boxford lathe ) but this is my first Pond Yacht so I'm very grateful for any advice :}
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Hiya John and thank you but I wouldn't dare suck gobstoppers in class :embarrassed:
I'll look into the ZEpoxy thing, I've never used it, I was wondering about sealing the hull as there seems to be so many different approaches. I posted earlier about my undercoat issues but its not a big deal, it was only really intended to work as a filler so I'll scrape it back (it wont sand).
I actually managed to get a look inside down the mast flange hole using my little light for guitars and a mirror, it all looks "ship shape".....sorry !
I'm still deciding about the RC thing, if I went down that route it would be done with a raised hatch for the servos, I have the room to keep it on deck.
Then again I might change my mind, it's still early days.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKS_bzB1JP4
:-)) Z-POXY :embarrassed:
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Well......this $%£&^^%^& undercoat has been on a couple of days now and its just as bad, fully cured but still soft and crumbly, all I can do is scrape it off and start again. I was reading here where people have used clear acrylic lacquer as a sealer/base coat, I might give it a go as I have a can and a bit left over from another job. I know it grabs wood well and is obviously waterproof, it also gives a reasonably thick coat and rubs down nicely.
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It's one of three things
1. An old batch and gone off. Unlikely but possible.
2. You didn't cure it in a warm environment- most epoxy needs decent temperature to cure well, and it generally needs that temperature for at least 24 hours.
3. You didn't mix it accurately or well enough. I weigh mine with very accurate digital scales.
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Hi Subculture, this wasn't an epoxy it was an oil based undercoat, it was recommended by a friend who gave me a can. The boat had been indoors and was taken to the shed to paint, I have a decent heater in there and always warm things up before painting. I'm not sure what went wrong, it was completely dry but wouldn't flat down. It may well be a lot older than I thought, its not for sale now and I cant find any mention of it.
Anyhow it's all gone and the hull is waiting for something new.
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Hi flyte, some time ago I did use some ivory coloured paint I knew to be at least 20 years old as there was no available similar colour on sale. It never dried, I just rubbed it off cleaned it down with white spirit and chose another colour.
regards Roy
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Hi Roy, after a rethink I'm going with all acrylic, I'll be making my own waterslide decals which go best under a clear acrylic lacquer, also, acrylic is pretty much inert, I've never had any sort of compatibility issues with it and the stuff they sell now is very hard wearing. I was thinking Ivory myself with a dark red keel and waterline, I want to restore the vintage look.
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Hi flyte, I use acrylic often and it is hard wearing there is a double strength spray can in the 'Range' stores at a reasonable price.
regards Roy
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Hi Flyte,
As roycv mentions, Acrylic varnishes are very good. I only use these now, because they are waterproof when dry, brushes wash out in water, give a good finish with several coats built up and they won't react with other older surfaces. It is just about the best finish for my Foam models and is easy to get in any DIY store at a reasonable price.
It makes for a good sealer over wood and will take other paints particularly acrylics and good quality 'toy' enamels like Humbrol over the top without problems. Most car body rattle cans are Acrylic now but good to test them out on scrap first.
It sounds like your friends 'Undercoat' stuff was actually 'Anti-climb' paint!!!or so old that all the solvent medium was evapoated. You must get rid of it all, maybe even resort to careful application of the Ronson Blow torch if necessary. Anything put over that will slide off it even if it does feel dry. A definate candidate for the bin.
(I recently noticed that woodworkers in the USA are blow-torching over twin pack epoxy resin finishes when still wet (On YouTube) to give a really glossy, streak and bubble free finish, might try that on something, not a boat though....Think Foam construction!!!)
Yep...go for the Acrylic varnish....Ronseal and similar are good and easy to get, their floor quality gloss is amazing. Remember its the whitish milky ones you want.
Cheers......Ron.
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Hi Ron, all the undercoat is gone now, strange but when I tried to clean off the residue with white spirits it didn't want to know. Acetone works fine though so nearly ready to start again !
I have loads of acrylic, both tins and spray cans (all bought within the last 2 years) :} but I still need a main colour for the hull, I'm thinking ivory or cream.
Now I have the traditional Christmas cold and I can hear female voices in the background mumbling about "man flu"....... {:-{
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Hi again Flyte,
Back in September 2016 edition Model Boats, I recreated a 1935 model called Streamlinia. The hull cried out for a cream colour as well and after some testing, I went for CarPlan, Color Match Beige 02, which is an acrylic spray paint from a car spares shop. It is not really Beige of course but the same colour as the cream at the top of a bottle of Channel Island Gold Top....(For those that remember) anyway it was certainly the right colour for the age of the model. Looks lovely.
Cheers.........Ron.
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Hi Ron I recall your streamlinia, it is an interesting model and I had to make my own but that was 28 years ago. I went for the full size at 40 inches built from Hobbies Magazine 1938 plans. My one is red and white Humbrol paint and was initially steam powered.
Hard work put into the paint finish has meant it still looks good today.
regards Roy
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Found some time to do a little more, still a long way to go but she's looking better :} I made a waterslide name decal today and it came out well I think, hull painted in Ivory and Burgundy Red but needs lacquer, deck is in yacht varnish and needs one more coat, brasswork given a moderate clean in keeping with its age.
Posting a few pics in hope that someone will advice me about sails and rigging, I've spent hours looking at photos but cant find anything the same....or maybe I need to start a new thread for help ?
A few parts are missing, I "think" it was gaff rigged ( missing )......jib boom is missing......brass collar from mast which I think was for the gaff and all the sails etc missing. I have made a few brass anchor points for missing ones but there's still a few screw holes in the deck I need to identify.
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Finally got her finished :-)) it took 10 days to get the rigging line as the first lot got lost in the post. I used C.K. 3517 builders line (£3 0n Ebay) it looks exactly the same as "faithful" chalk line but is available in 18mtr hanks, faithful only seems available in boxes of 12 !
I made a whole bundle of rigging parts, hooks, eyes, blocks etc thinking I would have spares but it just gobbled them up haha, the sails and thread are 100% cotton in a nice cream colour that matches the hull.
I have to confess I had no clue whatsoever about sails and rigging or how to rig this yacht, I went for a look that was aesthetically pleasing to me and hopefully functions as it should.
So there it is, my first pond yacht restoration, I've enjoyed every minute of it and will be keeping an eye out for another one, the only thing left might be to install some RC gear, probably just for the rudder.
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Hi that is nice to see, well done. Done a few myself so know what you have been doing.
May I just suggest that the bowsies could be cut back to being lower / nearer the deck and I always like to keep them neatly lined up.
But who am I to judge, nice job.
By the way I think the chalk line comes in a box of 12 because the line is continuous so you can cut off what you want.
best regards Roy
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Thank you Roy :-)) and yes I see what you mean, they were the last thing I did this morning and I think my fingers were itching to grab my camera and take some pics.
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ss bar costs £120 for a 5 inch long piece of 4 inch diameter!....He said....Forget it!!)
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Seem to have lost all that post....!
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It read like the end of a joke being told as you walk into a Pub Ron!
You did a lovely job on her Flyte :-))
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Those brass fittings on these older yachts really look good. A very fine job. Well done!
Bob.
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Thank you Ron for those intriguing comments {-)
Thank you ballastanskian for your kind words
Thank you Nemo, I love brass and wood, nothing else has that look of quality and a feeling for the past, thank you for your comments, much appreciated.