Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Tugs and Towing => Topic started by: Stavros on December 15, 2016, 09:57:05 pm
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Right then all this is due to One members fault and he knows who he is,this has been lying under my workbench for longer than I care to own up to...oK ok ok its5yrs since it last saw light of day !!!!!..
I was first introduced to the Tid's by now dearly departed next door Neighbour who used to own a Tid Namly a Tid called Bonchurch which was used to take fishing party.s and general Tug towing Based in Bangor North Wales at Penrhyn Port Bangor.I remember it like yesterday having been given the job of cleaning the fresh water tanks and cement washing them ...now a nice job believe you me.The Bonchurch is still on the water albeit now as a House boat and was last seen in Cheshire.
Right then the build
This is what was done 5 yrs ago and I will bring it up to date after a few disasters along the way.
This was the rudder mounting 1st time around...yes it worked
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20003_zps8hzwe1uw.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20003_zps8hzwe1uw.jpg.html)
Showing the servo arrangement
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20002_zpsh45l2zlj.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20002_zpsh45l2zlj.jpg.html)
This was the ill fated shaft that has caused all my greif
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20004_zpslqszftlt.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20004_zpslqszftlt.jpg.html)
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20005_zpsyvadette.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20005_zpsyvadette.jpg.html)
Showing the Brass Rudder and Shaft plate
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20006_zpslyohsjcs.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20006_zpslyohsjcs.jpg.html)
Sorry but this is a rather poor shot of how the deck is held on...The wood pieces you see are bonded to the hull using P40
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20011_zpskcwpdgqp.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20011_zpskcwpdgqp.jpg.html)
Dave
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The Deck was made in sections which sorry Daz I couldnt remember how I had done it till I found these pics,this from what I can see is made with 2mm ply in more than one section and then it was Bonded to the hull with a couple of layers of 1oz Mat and resin and then tissue applied over it .
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20009_zpstrwngn9x.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20009_zpstrwngn9x.jpg.html)
Deck Marked out and ready to cut out using a angle grinder with a thin cutting dicsc
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20016_zpsvbvjf6ie.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20016_zpsvbvjf6ie.jpg.html)
Cut out and ready to be hand sanded to the correct line
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20017_zpsbspgaqfy.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20017_zpsbspgaqfy.jpg.html)
From this shot you all can see that the superstructure is not level with the deck so has to be cut down to fit level
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20012_zpsyr6vnwag.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20012_zpsyr6vnwag.jpg.html)
This is how it was done ....a scrap piece of plywood and a pencil cut down and drilled and used as a scribe,now as the deck is smooth it will follow the deck line and put the exact scribe line along where is needed to be cut
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20014_zpsd1b6awkj.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20014_zpsd1b6awkj.jpg.html)
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20015_zps7wo2nl7f.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20015_zps7wo2nl7f.jpg.html)
Dave
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haha!
/looks around innocently while whistling!
Ive decided (after yours & pete's lil pep talk on my thread) to go back to beams & scrap the bulkheads, i have a good idea now how to fit the beams etc, im going to use some 3x2 lengths for beams & support etc :) ..i picked up some P40 today so over the weekend im gunna fit the beams/support :)
jus tried to give you a bell earlier but didnt realise how late it was, sorry!
What size prop did you say your using, 5" ?
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Some of the superstructure build pics
Hatches for the Engine...Made simply form scrap peices of plywood and brass
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20018_zpseacz34qb.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20018_zpseacz34qb.jpg.html)
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20019_zpszxteav46.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20019_zpszxteav46.jpg.html)
More Hatches
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20021_zps5ojszkb2.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20021_zps5ojszkb2.jpg.html)
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20023_zpsaetldxzp.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20023_zpsaetldxzp.jpg.html)
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20024_zpsuz0b1wcu.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20024_zpsuz0b1wcu.jpg.html)
Parts of the deck cranes..2 were made
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20026_zps7sd3i3ew.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20026_zps7sd3i3ew.jpg.html)
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20027_zpszzb7nwj0.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20027_zpszzb7nwj0.jpg.html)
The superstructure
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20029_zpsh7qupjbi.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20029_zpsh7qupjbi.jpg.html)
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20028_zpspwgjohbt.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20028_zpspwgjohbt.jpg.html)
Stern Grating that goes over the exosed steering gear
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20007_zps8l8ui1sm.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20007_zps8l8ui1sm.jpg.html)
This was simply made from a frame then covered with some planking
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/Tid%20TUG%20008_zpsr3xd2y8t.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/Tid%20TUG%20008_zpsr3xd2y8t.jpg.html)
Dave
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yeh for the deck i may have to do the same but im going to be using 5mm ply for my deck as i wont be glassing it like you have done so i will need the extra thickness for stiffness/strength etc :)
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Right then lets get up to speed on this build.
A New shaft was purchased off Steve's Model Boat bits a heavy duty one that is Guaranteed not to bend like the old one...This was simply caused by a golf buggy motor on 24v !!!!...The new one will never bend as it has been built using a 12mm stainless steel inner turned down to a 6mm end and the same for the prop.
Propshaft is being supported by a scrap piece of wood bonded to the hull with P40.This as you can all see is held down wth some brass bent over to help stabeise the shaft and prevent shaft oscilation
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2509_zpsnkx8aibq.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2509_zpsnkx8aibq.jpg.html)
This pic shows the new shaft arrangement and also the rudder Shaft bearer,you will see that the upermost Support has already been Attatched to the hull this was done by simply drilling the wood that has been shaped and glueing in the bolts using 2 part epoxy and P40,the lower part still has to be made...the brass strap that is at present seen in the pic will be removed when the lower part is made But a new one will be put form top to bottom to sanwich the shaft to the rudder/Shaft strengtheners.
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2510_zpstzf7vb5o.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2510_zpstzf7vb5o.jpg.html)
This is the lower rudder shaft bearing that has been Silver soldered to the brass lower keel of the Rudder.
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2511_zpsxd3x4wo6.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2511_zpsxd3x4wo6.jpg.html)
Dave
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Right Motor wise I will be using a direct drive Robbe 1000 motor which should be correct for this tug.......If not I will go with a rather Large Brushless Motor.
All the electrics will be 12v Running all ACTion Electronics...well it would be rude not to do so as they all in the drawer ready to go.
The Esc is a special one off that our Mr Milbs built for me and his words were blow this up you hooligan....MMMMM I FAILED. {-) ....There will Obviously be Navigation lights switched by an ACTion switcher....A P100 Noisy thing with a steam Whistle,fog horn and Engine sounds.....There will Be another switcher for the Pump or the fire Hydrant........If necc I will use pump to cool the motor if it gets hot at all this will be connected to a seperate Esc by means of a y lead so the cooling water should be proportional to the Engine speed.
I am rather hoping to have this finished for the Elsmere Port Show a tall ask but I think it is possible.....If it is not ready it will Definatly be ready for a little Challenge Me and Alandebsnal have got planned in june...a 24 hour tug pull round Llanberis lake...Alan is bringing his Tid up and we are going to pull his Inflatable around the lake with Both Tids...MORE of that laters
OH and YES it WILL be at Wikki this year
Dave
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hiya mate, what did you use for the lower shaft bearing that the shaft sits in that you silver soldered in this pic?
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2511_zpsxd3x4wo6.jpg)
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OH and YES it WILL be at Wikki this year
Dave
Ohhh I'm looking forward to seeing her Dave. Don't think I've actually seen one of these beauties completed yet. Following you eagerly :-))
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I used an Old prop shaft bearing that was sleved to fit the shaft of the rudder.The actual top mounting of the rudder shaft (which I will put pics up tomorrow as camera batts went flat !!!).This is made up of a 4mm propshaft that I had in the spares box which I cut dwon to suit and will be bonded to the hull with P40....I might get the rudder silver soldered to the shaft tomorrow night If time permitts
Dave
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Ohhh I'm looking forward to seeing her Dave. Don't think I've actually seen one of these beauties completed yet. Following you eagerly :-))
Well One has been down sailing at Wicksted a few years ago as Alan of the rather large frigate Type 41? had his sailing down there.
Just for you
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/wicksteed/2010/water/imagepages/image57.html
Dave
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Well One has been down sailing at Wicksted a few years ago as Alan of the rather large frigate Type 41? had his sailing down there.
Just for you
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/wicksteed/2010/water/imagepages/image57.html (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/wicksteed/2010/water/imagepages/image57.html)
Dave
I was probably a bit uh what's the word... tipsy! %)
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Hiya Stavros, this looks very interesting - I'll tag along and maybe pick up some ideas/hints/tips. One I've taken already is the stubby pencil rig, for marking deck to superstructure line, simple but brilliant. O0
Regards,
Ray.
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Hiya Stavros, this looks very interesting - I'll tag along and maybe pick up some ideas/hints/tips. One I've taken already is the stubby pencil rig, for marking deck to superstructure line, simple but brilliant. O0
Regards,
Ray.
2nd this, very nice lil trick ;)
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Right then sorry if the pics are slightly out of sequence ...but it seems I did not take any more pics of the build so I am trying to play catch up
Pic of Deck to superstructure coaming.The was done simply by screwing through the deck to some 1x1inch pine and then simply glueing and screwing the Coaming to it....this still needs to be tidy'ed up.
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2517_zpsi0kxllut.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2517_zpsi0kxllut.jpg.html)
Picture of the Water Tank....the bolt heads have ben made by using the heads of ordinarry dress maker pins
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2520_zpsyjmljbxc.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2520_zpsyjmljbxc.jpg.html)
Dummy steam whislte fitted to oneside of the Funnel,as you can see the other is work in Progress
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2519_zps4e6dfcot.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2519_zps4e6dfcot.jpg.html)
Rear Towing Bollard,this was made by drilling some Brass tube and simply insering another through it...This was soldered with a 100watt soldering iron and ordinary solder
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2518_zpswzpmnxw2.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2518_zpswzpmnxw2.jpg.html)
4 mooring posts...yet again a simple affair cross drilled tube and Soldered
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2521_zpsyu6uhchq.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2521_zpsyu6uhchq.jpg.html)
Mast detail
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2523_zpst6thb4tw.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2523_zpst6thb4tw.jpg.html)
This pic shows how tight it is for access at the stern once the deck is fitted and with me having such large hands beleive you me is not much fun
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2513_zpsp9355pn1.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2513_zpsp9355pn1.jpg.html)
So the rudder build starts in earnest,Right this is a shot of the top rudder shaft bearing,simply constructed by cutting down a M4 shafted propshaft,This has a total lenght of approx 40mm,If you decide to do this you will need to cut the shaft accuratly an straight...easy to acheieve with a tube cutter,the baering is so so easy to get out ...simply use a drift and tap out,and yes you guessed it tap it into the new shaft
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2515_zps78tz9t56.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2515_zps78tz9t56.jpg.html)
The Rudder components,This consits of a shaft,Main rudder plate...made using an old Door finger plate,3 shaft to rudder hindges.The hindges were made using brass strip cut to length and simply using a vice and a hammer to shape them,These of course will be silver soldered and not ordinary solder as this would simply be not strong enough
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2516_zpse1vn5xui.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2516_zpse1vn5xui.jpg.html)
The rudder trial fitted to the hull.....There is still work to be done to the hindges cleaning and trueing them up before they will be Silver soldered to the shaft
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2512_zpsbz5pctit.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2512_zpsbz5pctit.jpg.html)
Dave
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having such large hands beleive you me is not much fun
Dave
...as can be seen in that last pic {-)
Coming along slowly but surely - she's not bad when you consider her 5 years in the poky.
Regards,
Ray.
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what thickness is the brass for your rudder dude?
im thinking of using 2mm?
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(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2524_zpsedq8mvpm.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2524_zpsedq8mvpm.jpg.html)
After around an Hour it was cleaned up
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2526_zpsd8scuc01.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2526_zpsd8scuc01.jpg.html)
Dave
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Yes it is made form 2mm Brass Plate
Well to be perfectly honest with you guys I could have done with some Oxtacetaline today to silver solder this shaft and rudder plate together as I required a lot of heat to melt the solder,but I managed it in the end...
1st pic is the rudder assembly prior to it being cleaned up
2nd pic after an hour of cleaning up
Dave
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top job there dude ;)
ive just ordered some brass sheet so will be making my rudder in the week, at the mo i'm just getting the beams & base of hull sorted etc :)
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What Width/Thickness is the brass piece for your skeg, is is 10mm width & 2mm thick fella?
ta!
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Well after yeasterday's Fiasco of getting thing totally wrong and throwing around 5 flippin bullwark templates cos Dave got it wrong and then to cap it all I got the steps totally wrong I just wondered what could possibly go wrong tonight....So I decided to start on the woodwork on the bridge...what could possibly go wrong !!!!!!
1st job was to Mark all around where the wood was to go and also the door to the Bridge
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2527_zpsghe5o7ql.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2527_zpsghe5o7ql.jpg.html)
Right then as you all can see there is a radius around the bridge so we have 2 options available to us,either fill the radius out so you have a 90 degree corner....well that would be cheating and an easy way out..OR bend the wood round the corner.Anyone who has tried to bend wood cold knows what happens it splits,so what can we do...Well there is only one course of action left.Steam it or soak it in water...the wood I am using is 1/32 thick planks...To Be honest with you I am not a great beleiver in getting wood soaking wet.....But as I did work in a boat yard and had to bend teak planks around the deck edge by means of a steamer.
Now how can we steam wood...you either make a proper enclosed steamer or you simply get the old camping stove and a kettle out......You simply boil the kettle and leave it on the boil so it produces steam,Now for heavens sake BE CAREFUL when doing this as you can get SERIOUSLY HURT if you do not be careful......If you get hurt after this article I WILL NOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE.
The plank needs to be steamed for a couple of mins till it becomes soft now the trickk here is to work fast and carefully...clamping as you go and not to be too greedy...if it does'nt feel right STOP and resteam(MM DAVE why didnt you),do one side at a time ...wait 5 mins then simply do the other side,if when you remove the clamps the first side straightens up simply resteam it clamp up and pull gently round the other side.
I will confess one little thing here I did make a right pigs ear of this and had to scrap 4 before I got it right...I can obviously use these bits to do the planking so all is not lost
Steaming in progress
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2528_zpsqibqjbmc.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2528_zpsqibqjbmc.jpg.html)
1st side bent
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2531_zps7ypgenwl.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2531_zps7ypgenwl.jpg.html)
2nd Side
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2529_zpsiwaw3zfn.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2529_zpsiwaw3zfn.jpg.html)
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2530_zpsfcq1ckdm.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2530_zpsfcq1ckdm.jpg.html)
This will now be left to dry overnight and it will retain its shape and will be glued to the superstructure with Zap superglue.
And before anyone picks up that the wood is not straight on the bridge front...I know and Ive been out to the shed to correct this so it will be ready for tomorrow !!!!!
Whilst this was drying I started on the rear of the Bridge so a door frame was made using 1/8 mahogany strips,ready to be planked,All around the bridge will have to be individually planked right up to the roof.
Now here lies a bit of a problem as the roof of the bridge is square and it should have a radius on it...This I will show you how to do at the next installment
Dave
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Looking good young Dave.
Nice piece of engineering. :-))
ken
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Hope to see you at Ellsmere Port, even if not compleated
Mark
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Right then Proof of the pudding so to speak....after 24 hours the wood has dried out and has retained it's shape after steaming
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2533_zpsdkuoupkq.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2533_zpsdkuoupkq.jpg.html)
Now glued to the bridge
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2534_zps7aq7v68d.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2534_zps7aq7v68d.jpg.html)
Dave
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Ha I remember you jamming it in your car all those years ago. and then under your bench a couple of years ago....so now finally......I must say looking good Stav, will you have it a coalville.. :-))
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Right then lets get the roof of the bridge planked,right then we really need to sort out the camber of the roof so the center was Marked out and a piece of scrap wood was used around 8mm x8mm and a couple of 4x4's were used on the edge of the roof,this allowed a decent roof camber
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2541_zpsuctar6bg.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2541_zpsuctar6bg.jpg.html)
A piece of ply was then glued to these so I could plank it over and a center line was marked so I could start form the middle and work outwards
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2542_zpswerqbwth.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2542_zpswerqbwth.jpg.html)
Around 40 were needed for the roof alone
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2543_zpsppamzvia.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2543_zpsppamzvia.jpg.html)
I was initially going to use Pva Waterproof wood glue but changed my mind as I couldnt wait to get it done so Opted for Gorrilla Glue the Gell one...must admit this is spot on so so easy to use and I didnt even stick my fingers together and is waterproof as well
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2544_zpsrsynk76d.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2544_zpsrsynk76d.jpg.html)
This is the roof around 3/4 done
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2545_zpstp12g01p.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2545_zpstp12g01p.jpg.html)
Roof Done..But you will see that the planks are higldy pigldy so to speak and need to be rubbed down to the wodth and length of the plywood roof,How do we do that may you well ask...well very simply really...I made a rubbing down block by simply glueing a peice of 80 grit sandpaper with spray glue to a block of wood..I also made one of 180 grit and 400
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2547_zpsyb3uspcy.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2547_zpsyb3uspcy.jpg.html)
Here you will see that i have started the vertical planks that go around the bridge are
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2548_zpseiwnjq6r.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2548_zpseiwnjq6r.jpg.html)
This was done in a similar way to the roof But a dremel was used to get a rough shape and then a simply filed to finish
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2549_zpszhrpg5g0.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2549_zpszhrpg5g0.jpg.html)
As there are windows around the bridge a window frame is needed I will show you how to do this on the next instalment
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2550_zpses6dk03u.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2550_zpses6dk03u.jpg.html)
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2551_zps1zdffove.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2551_zps1zdffove.jpg.html)
Dave
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Looking good so far mate but can I offer one critique? The roof should be done last so its edges overlap the sides. Your side planking appears to overlap the edge of the roof. In real life this would allow the ends of the planks open to wicking up water, which would then swell the woodwork. Overlapping the roof allows for an edge band to cover the ends of the roof planks.
But overall its going to be a monster of a ship when finished. :-))
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I hear what you are saying BUT there is a capping going around it to protect the end grain as per the real one....Thanks for your kind comments.keep them coming
Dave
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Right then Window frames....the Stav way...whether this is the correct way lord only knows but is has worked for me and thats all that counts .
Firstly i glued the inner part of the window frame to cover up the edge of the fiberglass....yes it is far to oversize but it is easily sanded with a block.
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2562_zpsyk6fkue6.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2562_zpsyk6fkue6.jpg.html)
This is showing the frame sanded down
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2563_zps0t5i2idg.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2563_zps0t5i2idg.jpg.html)
Then a simple frame of much narrower planks were glued to the outside to cover everything up...simple but in my mind effective
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2564_zpskwwlx0ns.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2564_zpskwwlx0ns.jpg.html)
Now me being the impatient fellow decided I would try out the woodstain that I purchased in B&Q just so I could see what it was like
(http://i385.photobucket.com/albums/oo295/broomsrck/IMG_2565_zpshfpuebwy.jpg) (http://s385.photobucket.com/user/broomsrck/media/IMG_2565_zpshfpuebwy.jpg.html)
Dave
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I'm not sure how dark you want it, but it can be thinned out using white spirit to lighten it up should you find it too dark. For my trawler build I bought light oak for the decks because the pine I felt was too light, the oak was still too dark after thinning! There never seems to be the colour you want available!
-
It's always better to try the woodstain out on a piece of scrap, of the same material, before committing to the model. OK, it may mean waiting around for the stuff to dry but, there is usually something else to be getting on with in the meantime. :-)
Also, it can depend on applying a number of coats to get the desired effect.
Regards,
Ray.
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She is starting to look excellent Dave. I look forward to trying out wood steaming in the future.
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I like it Stav it's really starting to come together, I do have a stock of (real) glass slides if you want to glaze the Windows
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Hi Phil...was going to use some perspex inside to do the glazing my woodworking skills aint up to making a rebate to hold the glass in alas...Thanks all the same
Dave
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Are the 380 size motor going to be big enough lol
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With a 35 mm prop {-) {-) {-)
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Wey hey managed to get a full day in the shed today so I actually managed to finish the cladding of hte bridge and make all the window frames.....phew thank goodness that's over and done with.
It was then given 3 coats of light oak stain...more like dark oak !!! But to be honest with you I wanted it dark as all the Tid's were this way
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2566_zpskvhy1zht.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2566_zpskvhy1zht.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2567_zps1mxqryut.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2567_zps1mxqryut.jpg.html)
I now had to construct the Port and Starboard Navigation light Boards which I will now endevour to build some lamps for it...unless of course I can get hold of some 1/12th scale old fashioned ones
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2568_zpslfha2wer.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2568_zpslfha2wer.jpg.html)
This is being held up to see what it looked like as it will need painting before it gets glued on to the bridge
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2569_zpsphnw8gka.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2569_zpsphnw8gka.jpg.html)
Dave
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That Bridge looks good..
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I've seen ye olde style navigation lamps on Ebay so worth looking there and perhaps Dolls House sites?
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The actual size for 1/12 is around 20mm x 20mm
but found these which aint too far off but maybe still on the small side in terms of width..
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/krick_lamps.html (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/krick_lamps.html)
(http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/k63003_01.jpg)
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If the Tids had oil running lights don't forget to source some red and green oil
for port and starboard %)
Ned
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Tizdaz sorry but they are the wrong type...ive looked everywhere, so its builld them from scratch.
Dave
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Dave
I have not seen Navigation boards with a partition restricting the light shining forward. Could you enlighten me?
As they say on Mayhem the only stupid question is the one you do not ask.
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Honestly can not answer that one but it was a feature on the tid's for some reason clearly shows it on all the plans. It seeme that the light blocker if thats what you call it is half width of the rear of the box so to speak...maybee someone like Dodes or Shipmate 60 could enlighten us
Dave
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Dave
I have not seen Navigation boards with a partition restricting the light shining forward. Could you enlighten me?
As they say on Mayhem the only stupid question is the one you do not ask.
I maybe wrong, but i'm sure it has something to do weather the tug was towing if length of tow was over 2-300m as to weather it would have full or partial arc of light beam?
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I'll need to go look it up guys, but the boards are there to restrict the angles at which the lights can be seen by other vessels, in order to avoid confusion, which could lead to collisions - it's definitely in the Regs somewhere - I'll come back on this, unless someone else can enlighten us all (pun intended)
Regards,
Ray.
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Normal angles are these(http://www.boatsafe.com/nauticalknowhow/boatlites.gif)
Was there a different restriction for wartime as the boards depicted for the TID would be a more acute ange of visibility.
Ned
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As a few hours have been wasted looking for Nav light I decided to make some out of Plastic card and some scrap bits I had in the spares box
All marked up ready to cut
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2570_zpsqkwmqrut.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2570_zpsqkwmqrut.jpg.html)
All the bits ready to be glued together
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2572_zps46d4lwwv.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2572_zps46d4lwwv.jpg.html)
One nearly finished the other is being constructed
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2573_zpszrxujxqq.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2573_zpszrxujxqq.jpg.html)
Trial fit
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2574_zpso2hvcjhc.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2574_zpso2hvcjhc.jpg.html)
Front of lamp with a slot cut in it for the light
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2576_zpstrxfsn0d.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2576_zpstrxfsn0d.jpg.html)
Tops pf the lamp were made with components of some brass lamps which I had spare
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2577_zps6ablilhv.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2577_zps6ablilhv.jpg.html)
trial fit in its new home
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2579_zpsglfyqcky.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2579_zpsglfyqcky.jpg.html)
Coaling scuttles made ready to be fitted
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2580_zps4mblkvg2.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2580_zps4mblkvg2.jpg.html)
These were scribed to simulate the ridges on them
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2581_zps2hic5gdv.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2581_zps2hic5gdv.jpg.html)
fresh water tank all marked up on Plastic card ready to be cut and assembled
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2583_zpszduhtsty.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2583_zpszduhtsty.jpg.html)
Dave
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Pic of steps from the deck to the superstructure
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2582_zpsmnrgrkxl.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2582_zpsmnrgrkxl.jpg.html)
Dave
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Pic of the Port/stbd lights on the plan clearly showing the front light board
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2571_zpskoy9lrey.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2571_zpskoy9lrey.jpg.html)
Now unless this was a war requirement to partly sheild the lights...lord knows why it was there
Dave
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Dave,
When you google Tid Tugs and go to images the light restrictor isnt there on the full size vessels.
Bob
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Hi there
I am sure Bryan Young gave a description of why some vessels are fitted with navigation light restrictors and some aren't. Also when the navigation lights went over to all black backboard from green and red backboards - Bryan is the man to tell us.
Stavros you are making a canny good job of this model :-)
John
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Well thats one hell of a compliment THANKS John
Dave
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Hi Davros, as usual you are making a brilliant job. As to the light box restricter, have looked at some of my early pics in my collection and they are there. They were brought in a long time ago to stop over spill of light from a head on or near head on aspect causing confusion. The black paint came in about 1976, plus the rules on the light restriction board was tighten up with the change of colour and also the requirement to have separate back up electric lights. Which look like two lamps vertically, one mains the other 12volts.
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Dont know what happened there all I did was to copy and paste and it went muts.
Thanks to Dodes for his explanation and also to Bryan Young for his
Dave
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Using one of them modern things Dave ??? {-) {-)
ken
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Right a bit of an update on this build.........A couple of the deck vents have been built to be used as plugs so they can be cast in resin....main reason for this is there are 14 of the little blighters on the Tid all down the sides of the hull.They will be used to make rubber moulds ready for the resin casting,Also a technical drawing was made in 1/12th scale of the rather large cowl vents .
Now a rather large confession here...not knowing a thing about making rudder moulds let alone my skills are simply not good enough to make some cowl vents of that size I simply asked a god friend of mine HOW do it do this and what do I need to get to make the rubber moulds etc etc....his ONLY answer to me was ...send the vents and a drawing up to me and ill make you the moulds and you can make the resin bits...............That Friend was Neil Howard Pritchard no less,to say I was gosmacked was an understatement.......Obviously he isn't on Mayhem no more BUT he has promised me to post on my build on the other forum of how he has done them so I will with his Permission transfer the knowledge to here
NEIL can I publically THANK YOU for this
Dave
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Hello Dave, neil has just sent me these 3 pics of the almost finished vents for you. He can't find your email address.
He has taken more shots of how he did them as they are hand carved from obeche but he took them on his phone and he's just told me they won't download for some reason so has just taken these on his camera of the almost finished vents.
Won't tell you on here what he said lol, but he's had a bit of a tragedy over the past couple of days so was a little the worse for beer.
The photos might be a bit blurry, he said.
Jim.
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Right then onwards and upwards as they say...Today's tasks were pretty time consuming to say the least and made me really think what I was up to.
First job was to do some work on the lathe to true it up and thanks to a gent form Bethesda who just was just going for a walk past my house made that job a doddle....Thanks Billy.
With the lathe running true it was time for Dave to do some turning....What do I know about this subject...well Ill be honest with you all....Naff all.....I honestly ain't got a clue what I am doing so it was rather trial and error,trust me on this.
I managed to turn 4 small pulleys for the Roller fairleads and believe you me they ain't to bad...well I would say that !!!
These were drilled and then the frame was made up with some brass strip....I only manged one as I ran out ...don't ask
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2584_zpsldqgog2h.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2584_zpsldqgog2h.jpg.html)
One of the completed rollers
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2585_zpsmmhwmaev.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2585_zpsmmhwmaev.jpg.html)
Next on the list of many jobs was the towing hook...........I decided to scrap the Mobile Marines one that I has(SORRY BRIAN) and canabalise it as I wanted a hook that not only went from side to side but up and down as well.
1st little problem with this was the gimbal on the one I had was to big by 5mm so into the lathe it went and was turned down...the actual hook was filed out to gain a bigger throat,new side cheecks were made and the actual hook bracket was made and silver soldered and 2 bolts were also soldered so it could be attatched to the superstrucre ...there is of course a spreader plate inside the superstructre.
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2588_zpscw0rhehl.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2588_zpscw0rhehl.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2586_zpskf7uxkpl.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2586_zpskf7uxkpl.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2589_zpsbxcajame.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2589_zpsbxcajame.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2590_zpsqghr0yjr.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2590_zpsqghr0yjr.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2591_zpskmke2oqz.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2591_zpskmke2oqz.jpg.html)
There was one little job that I have been putting off as I had not got a clue how to do it till today....Ah ha I said Lathe,this was the cap on the Galley stove,it needed a Chinaman's hat on it so this was duly turned down and made.
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2593_zpsnvsgcisl.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2593_zpsnvsgcisl.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2592_zpsge6z5xj5.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2592_zpsge6z5xj5.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2594_zpsupsui47e.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2594_zpsupsui47e.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2595_zpskrtdtgii.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2595_zpskrtdtgii.jpg.html)
The observant amongst us will notice that at the moment that there are no holes to allow the smoke to get out of the chinamans hat this will be rectified tomorrow.
Dave
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That really is some nice engineering young man. :-))
Watching this with great interest.
Cheers
ken
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That all looks pretty good to me as well.
Tom
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Right Neil has sent me these pics of the process to make the rubber moulds that will enable me to cast these Vents out of resin.
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_8065_zpsnikchp4l.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_8065_zpsnikchp4l.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_8066_zpswatrbnhm.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_8066_zpswatrbnhm.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_8067_zpsnqpwke3z.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_8067_zpsnqpwke3z.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_8068_zpse30vl8gf.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_8068_zpse30vl8gf.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_8069_zpswyrwlpb5.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_8069_zpswyrwlpb5.jpg.html)
The cowl vent were made out of Obeche wood and hand carved...The 2 plastic card Gnv vents were made by myself and these are the moulds to make the rubber moulds ready for casting
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_8070_zpscad3tivp.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_8070_zpscad3tivp.jpg.html)
Dave
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Hi Stavros, is this big in be ready for this years Wicksteed!, am looking forward to seeing it, it looks brilliant so far.
David.
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Hi YES it will DEFINATLY be ready for Wikki by hook or by crook....lets put is another way....it will be there on the water whether it has been painted or not.I am seriously thinking of buying an inflatable and towing SHIPMATE 60 around the lake,BUT PLEASE dont tell him ....mums the word wink wink etc
Dave
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This is now the state of play regarding the moulds for the vents.
The 1st half of the mould has been poured with the rubber compound to actually make the moulds and all the plastascene has been removed........as soon as Neil has tydied up the moulds he is sending them doen to me so I cna start to make the vents .....obviously I am going to need to make 2 of each of the cowl vents and a total of 14 of the GNV ones.....
Prior to the removal of the plasctecene
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_8073_zpsp2holawj.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_8073_zpsp2holawj.jpg.html)
Large cowl vent,you will see it is not full lenght...the bottom of the vent has a recess which a 24mm copper pipe wiill fit making ti full length...the same will happen to the small cowl vents but this will be qa 12mmm copper pipe
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_8074_zpsswqqs28c.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_8074_zpsswqqs28c.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_8077_zps8z2xmowf.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_8077_zps8z2xmowf.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_8076_zpsq7fcj7hn.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_8076_zpsq7fcj7hn.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_8075_zpsbvz5c1cw.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_8075_zpsbvz5c1cw.jpg.html)
Dave
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Blimey Stav, nice work coming along well.......now I don't have to catch it do I {:-{
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Dave, will you please make contact with neil on the RCMB forum please with your postal address as the moulds are finished and channels for resin flow are cut and ready to post off to you.
Thank you,
Jim.
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Done
Dave
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Loving both the work, and the size of this beast. You're giving me plenty of ideas for a couple of items I'm going to build for a future project. :-))
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We are going to need a bigger pond for Mayhem at this rate {-) {-) {-) {-)
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We'll just knock though to the big lake :D
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Blimey Stav, nice work coming along well.......now I don't have to catch it do I {:-{
Dont you worry Uncle Phil il only send down at half power to you
Dave
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Well I decided to do the filler work on the bulwarks of the hull today so I can start to put in all the extra strengtheners that are needed.
As it is a grp hull these need to be smoothed out so you don't see the weave of the glass fibre,this is a tediuos and horrible job,first I rubbed them down with 80 grit paper dry to key the grp,then some filler was applied sparingly then rubbed down again with 80 grit then finishing off wiht 180.
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2611_zpsnmxn8zth.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2611_zpsnmxn8zth.jpg.html)
This is what I had to fill
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2612_zpsrpiouky4.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2612_zpsrpiouky4.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2613_zpsffjitpa3.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2613_zpsffjitpa3.jpg.html)
The screws were removed along the inside of the superstructure coamings
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2614_zpssbm7hx2y.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2614_zpssbm7hx2y.jpg.html)
This is the filler I use,along with easy light and top stop....very easy to sand
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2615_zpsjibaf9oi.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2615_zpsjibaf9oi.jpg.html)
Correct amount of Hardener is really important as this stuff goes off like stink even in a cold workshop
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2616_zpsfqxkn5h9.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2616_zpsfqxkn5h9.jpg.html)
Mixed filler
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2617_zpszuksljt9.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2617_zpszuksljt9.jpg.html)
filler applied
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2618_zpsccdhg2su.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2618_zpsccdhg2su.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2619_zpsltf8d23a.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2619_zpsltf8d23a.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2620_zpsmbdnqddd.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2620_zpsmbdnqddd.jpg.html)
I then primed with a Halfords etch primer
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2621_zpszjupfn8t.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2621_zpszjupfn8t.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2622_zps9lshfqv3.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2622_zps9lshfqv3.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2623_zps1ldkehvl.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2623_zps1ldkehvl.jpg.html)
These are the moulds for the vents ready to be cast when I get the resin
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2625_zps1jofvvde.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2625_zps1jofvvde.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2626_zps0jimk3nj.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2626_zps0jimk3nj.jpg.html)
Dave
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lovely finish on the inside of the bulwarks Stavros. it shows that you work on motor bodies and paint.
A job to be proud of.
Jim.
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by its coming along good that my mate - cracking job on the bulwarks
gives us an idea of the size of this model - seeing a Stanley Knife at the bottom of the hull :-) what I would like to know is how much are you going to pay the crane driver to lift in and out of the water - few broken backs around the lakeside. :-) :-) :-) :} :} :} :} :} :} :} {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
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Hi Stavros, lovely job mate, you mention etch primer, not ordinary primer, whats the difference???
Mark
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Ah ha someone picked up on it .......Etch primer is used to make sure the paint sticks to the surface you are painting,it is ideal for brass,aliminium,white metal.
The only reason i used it was simple...I had run out of primer and I did'nt want to go 5 miles to get some!!!!!....The main reason for painting today was to see what work I have to do ........it is THINNER than primer and shows up all the rubbing down marks etc far better than primer,most of it will be rubbed off when I get it ready for paint.
I will probably use 2 pack primer filler on the whole hull sprayed with a professional spray gun...the main reason is simple really...the sheer size of this Tug as it is 6 feet long and will be cheaper in the long run especially as I want a baby smooth finish.
The red antifouling will be Halfords red Plastic primer and the Satin Black will probably be U Pol Satin black...this covers very easily and is a really strong black as well....The deck will probably end up a light green ...the superstructure and Bulwarks will be Ford Sahara Beige as that is the closest colour that I can find to the original
Dave
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Thanks for that Dave, another question, i have a plastic hulled tug, sprayed with grey primer, it is flaking off in a number of places, is this lack of surface prep or should i use a flexible paint for plastic before the primer?
Mark
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Yes it is either bad prep and it would really help adhesion if you used a plastic primer on it first
Dave
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Lathes are great, definitly worth saving up for as you can make loads of useful bits in them. I love the information on the navigation lights and also how the hook developed into a model engineering project :-))
Brilliant progress Dave, I can't wait to see it in May.
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Well this stuff arrived this afternoon........think I might just have to have a play later on afterMrsStav comeshome and relieves me from childminding duties
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2629_zpsy2mzpxfi.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2629_zpsy2mzpxfi.jpg.html)
Dave
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that looks interesting, Stavros. is that resin, and how long does it take to cure.
I look forward to seeing your fittings. Are you going to cast the brass parts as well that you made earlier.
Jim.
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Yes it is resin Jim apparantly it takes 10 to 15 mins to set...and as to Casting the brass fitings that I have made the simple and really is no.
Dave
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Dave,
if your casting always have a spare mould near you as you always mix a little to much (which is better then to little)
means at the price you pay for the stuff nothings wasted by the way may i ask where you got it and how much you paid and I may be wrong but I have been told this stuff only has a self life of six months so I only buy 500m or 1kg bottles hope am wrong on this, I know the clear resin I have has thickend up over the last year while we have moved.
Regards Howard.
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CFS fibreglass is where you get it from Howard they do a mail order service.There all the time being a boat builder spot on firm :-))
Mike
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Thank you Mike,
I'll give them a look I've been getting mine from a company in Northern Ireland and I must say have been very good so will check there prices.
Regards Howard.
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£22.50 inc vat probably some carriage to Howard for the same 2kg pack same as Stavros.I'll be interested in seeing how the casting turns out always thought of trying but never got round to it %)
Mike
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Mike,
It's very easy I do lots I make a master then make as many as I need. And what you say looks a lot cheaper then what I've been paying diff going to check them out.
Regards Howard.
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The resin has cost me £30 including postage and packing,that is for a 2kg pack which is the smallest they do,and yes unfortuantly there is a six month shelf life...so I plan to use the whole lot up and then sell what I have left over to recoop the price of the resin and then anything I do after that all the proceeds will go to the RNLI.....anyone need some 1/12th vents and funnels then please contact me !!!
I have made 4 batches up tonight but as Photobucket is down I cant put the pics up....hence the reason there are no pics on the thread
Dave
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Dave,
As I have said before I got from Polycraft in Northern Ireland good prices more so for water clear and in smaller amounts down to 250m if I remember but postage is £7.99 no matter what but always packed and posted quickly.
Regards Howard.
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Well here we are the pics of the casting.
To be honest I was very lucky in that the aerosol tops were a perfect amount to fill all the moulds up in one mix....begginers luck without a doubt
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2630_zpsjysdt6bl.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2630_zpsjysdt6bl.jpg.html)
Waiting for the resin to cure
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2631_zpslpppxc18.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2631_zpslpppxc18.jpg.html)
Wey hey it has worked
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2633_zpslnhuex0l.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2633_zpslnhuex0l.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2634_zpsrz8xbuop.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2634_zpsrz8xbuop.jpg.html)
I made up 4 mixes last night
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2635_zpsjtixtemo.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2635_zpsjtixtemo.jpg.html)
I will be casting another 4 mixes up today of the small Gnv vents,obviously all the vents are going to need cleaning up this is a simple process of rubbing down with some 240 grit.
Dave
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That looks good Dave. I'm very interested in your results. You'll have to let us know how sturdy and workable the final piece comes out.
Cheers
ken
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Sturdy is an understatement 100% success rate......very easyto works the resin an hour after comming out of the mould...tried some of yesterdays and still very easy to work and sand
Dave
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Hi stavros been looking at your build,great.if you are going to to Ellesmere Port show please come and say hello even if you have not finished TID tug,mines 14th scale and scratch built but be even better if yours was done and on the water.
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On wards and upwards so they say so on we go.....the job in hand this weekend was to not only get the Propshaft in the hull but get the rudder installed and a Platform made for the rudder servo and electrics
First job was to get the rudder and support post epoxied in so a box was made and epoxy was poured into it
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2647_zpsu4fe4iqt.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2647_zpsu4fe4iqt.jpg.html)
The Propshaft was taped up underneath to stop the P40 just dropping through the hole...Insulating tape was used for this
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2650_zpslynex2xh.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2650_zpslynex2xh.jpg.html)
Yet again a little box was made up of scrap plywood to make sure a block of P40 formed around the shaft...also the shaft support had P40 also applied to it
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2651_zpsdua7ait0.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2651_zpsdua7ait0.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2652_zpsgbaskpeg.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2652_zpsgbaskpeg.jpg.html)
The Shaft bottom support was made using some pine and through screwed to the rudder skeg,and also supported by means of some brass strip
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2653_zpshicvcpr3.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2653_zpshicvcpr3.jpg.html)
Dave
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Filler was then applied to the skeg and shaft
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2654_zpsg4cfwpfy.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2654_zpsg4cfwpfy.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2655_zpsxqtd31xs.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2655_zpsxqtd31xs.jpg.html)
This was quickly followed by a good coat of etch primer
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2656_zpsfd6mccec.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2656_zpsfd6mccec.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2657_zpswebuasfa.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2657_zpswebuasfa.jpg.html)
Rudder linkages were made up and fixed to the rudder post
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2659_zpsifuln9ne.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2659_zpsifuln9ne.jpg.html)
A solid servo mounting was needed as the Barn door rudder puts a lot of strain on the mounting point so some rather agricultural looking frame was constructed out of 20x20 pine this was screwed actually to one of the deck beams the feet of this will be set into P40 at a later date
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2658_zpswuqhs5o3.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2658_zpswuqhs5o3.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2660_zpsbsyvsyac.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2660_zpsbsyvsyac.jpg.html)
This has had a piece of plywood fixed to it to not only hold the servo but the Esc and receiver...but that might change ...a Hole has already been cut for a servo
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2661_zps9d2g05by.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2661_zps9d2g05by.jpg.html)
Rough idea of where everything might go
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2664_zpski5bxwci.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2664_zpski5bxwci.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2663_zpsj4wd5i0w.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2663_zpsj4wd5i0w.jpg.html)
Next job is the Horrible one in my mind...A motor mount has to be made BUT the major problem is two fold really ....only 5mm underneath it and not only that but it has not got any mounting points ...so thinking cap is now on
Dave
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Looks like a cradle and strap arrangement will do the job as motor mount.
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Hi Dave, is that the battery that you will be using in the TID? if so wont it cause problems with stability, being so high in the hull????
Mark
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I had this batt in her before and I also run the same batt in the Happy Hunter thats over 5 feet long as well
Dave
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Well an engine mounting had to be made...I already knew I needed a gap of 5mm between the bottom of the motor to the hull so this was drawn on the plywood as the bott line of the side cheeks of the mount.
I used a plastic shape finder(cant remember it's name) to get a rough idea of What I wanted and then divided the dia of the Motor in half so I could use a compass to scribe what I had to cut out
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2676_zpsdafenvhx.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2676_zpsdafenvhx.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2677_zpshznlqmvo.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2677_zpshznlqmvo.jpg.html)
Now I built up a casting box so I could pour the resin into
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2678_zpsmzwkw8yu.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2678_zpsmzwkw8yu.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2680_zpsbsv7mimn.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2680_zpsbsv7mimn.jpg.html)
Testing it was the correct height
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2679_zpsbe6begkz.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2679_zpsbe6begkz.jpg.html)
Obviously if I simply just poured resin into this all I would get is a oblong box...so the Motor was wrapped up in insulating tape and Vaseline was rubbed all over it and also the casting box,This was done to stop everything sticking together and also to get the Mounting out of the casting box.
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2682_zps0oroobqm.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2682_zps0oroobqm.jpg.html)
The white stuff is simply Sticks like the proverbial...this was used to stop any of the resin escaping out between the motor and the casting box
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2683_zpsfsw1ifxm.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2683_zpsfsw1ifxm.jpg.html)
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Mounting as it came out of the casting box
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2684_zpsdlvxas3b.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2684_zpsdlvxas3b.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2685_zps3o8gm1k6.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2685_zps3o8gm1k6.jpg.html)
I them sanded down the new mounting to clean it all up
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2686_zps7nw6jrw6.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2686_zps7nw6jrw6.jpg.html)
I was very lucky and found a Half round bracket in th egarage that fitted the bill so I then simply drilled the new mount and inserted an allen headed bolt in from underneath and simply put a nut with a spring washer on it...YES I will cange it for a nyloc nut later
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2690_zpsoi30n8xq.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2690_zpsoi30n8xq.jpg.html)
The whole affair was simply screwed to the hull ...mission completed
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2690_zpsoi30n8xq.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2690_zpsoi30n8xq.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2692_zps6qgdxrh9.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2692_zps6qgdxrh9.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2691_zpsx7rwotr8.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2691_zpsx7rwotr8.jpg.html)
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2692_zps6qgdxrh9.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2692_zps6qgdxrh9.jpg.html)
Oh my work was inspected this afternoon by Bethan
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2693_zps7irx1tet.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2693_zps7irx1tet.jpg.html)
Dave
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I like the idea, no baby walker, just sit inside and sail round!!!! warm and dry, probably fall asleep. Job done!!!!
Mark
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Is that an (very) early Drummond lathe behind?
Lance
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Well spotted that man...and it's still in use today...thats what i have been using to turn my bits for this build.Cracking piece of kit.Could be available for sale soon
Dave
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Cracking build Dave, love that motor mount. :-))
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superb motor mount Stavros, and an excellent idea.
I think that could be incorporated into any motor. you need to patent that one, before someone else makes money on it.
Jim.
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Brave man using that motor on direct drive Dave.
Bob
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My motto is Bob you dont drive a ferrari flat out everywhere
Dave
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So I started with the electrical instalation so a new servo piece of plywood was made and extended to cover the motor so I could mount all of the gear out of harms way
The first to be placed on the mounitng board was the Esc....all the electronics being used are ACTion
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2694_zpsdnnca37x.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2694_zpsdnnca37x.jpg.html)
I decided not to use the ACTion distribution board and use a car blade type fuse box to feed everything but to use an ACTion bec obviousy to feed the esc and reciever......The components placed on the board are a P98 High power esc,an ACion 93 Multy controller a ACTion Amplifier and a P100 Noisy thing
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2695_zpsdudnbbhp.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2695_zpsdudnbbhp.jpg.html)
An illuminated rocker switch was also installed ...this will control a 40 amp car relay which when switched on will allow power to be fed to the fuse box etc
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2698_zpszypxnvad.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2698_zpszypxnvad.jpg.html)
Pic of where the relay....all the power cables have been encased in some proper electrical sheathing and had the ends heat shrunk...............all the auxillary wireing will be encased in this as well,should keep Mr Milbourn Happy
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2697_zpsj0qhehxq.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2697_zpsj0qhehxq.jpg.html)
Having run out of cable I decided to do i job Ive been putting off for months ....the bullwarks...unfortunately every single one is different so I cant mass produce then ARGHHHHH...so I needed to assertain the correct angle of the deck to the side....nothing I have would do this so I had to make on...a very simple tool....2 pieces of brass bar with a nut and bolt through it ............nothing beats simplicity in my mind.
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2702_zpsgkrpdyi1.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2702_zpsgkrpdyi1.jpg.html)
Proof of the pudding 2 bullwark supports made....simply using some lite ply and some thin planks glued on edge to the support
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2700_zps67t8udxo.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2700_zps67t8udxo.jpg.html)
Between some of the support these vents will be simply glued to the sides of the hull
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2699_zpsznnm0sg5.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2699_zpsznnm0sg5.jpg.html)
Dave
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Aw bless, your Bethan is a sweetie:O) Has she seen your boats before? Lovely work with a good tidy electrical set up.
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Let the fun begin oh what a right chore the Bullwark supports have turned out to be,each one has to be individualy made,oh the joys of boat building,mind you if it was so simple it wouldnt be fun would it.
I have managed to get down half of one side of the hull in an afternoon so I hope by tomorrow to get the other side done,one of the most sattisfing well it was to me was being able to mount by vents to the side of the boat nad aslo the coaling scuttles....mind you they do say little things please little minds HA HA.
A section of the sides with the supports and Gnv vents attatched to the hull sides
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2705_zpshpn9eie5.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2705_zpshpn9eie5.jpg.html)
Coaling scuttles fitted
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2706_zpsoiljrk6d.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2706_zpsoiljrk6d.jpg.html)
I also fitted some of the posts as well
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2704_zpszskx1o3g.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2704_zpszskx1o3g.jpg.html)
Primer was applied to make them look the part
(http://i1044.photobucket.com/albums/b441/Pwllheli/IMG_2703_zps9l7nat3z.jpg) (http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/Pwllheli/media/IMG_2703_zps9l7nat3z.jpg.html)
Dave
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Dave your going great guns on this.........are you intending to rUn Phil over with this at Wicksteed ? Or are you putting the kids in it there???
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BOTH ;) {-) {-)
Dave
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Dave,
Have you trialed the motor/prop combination on the water?
Bob
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Not yet waiting for a ACTion bec to come back into stock then Ill let the beast loose on the lake....think it is long enough to get up to warp speed
Dave
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So scuba suit for me if I have to catch that thing..... O0 ...love the motor mount Stav
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I fit the motor into a cradle of filler or resin or shaped wooden block with cable ties (2 of) moulded under the block and around the motor. You can make a groove for them to fit through so they can be replaced. It is easy to get motor out for repair/ replacement, just hold retaining tab in cable tie open to slack it off.