Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Beginners start here...! => Topic started by: glyn44 on January 13, 2017, 12:59:23 pm
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As a first time user of this glue I wondered if anyone knows what I can use to remove the surplus ?
I have been trying to glue a pair of upper and lower hull sides together. Some of the stuff has smeared onto my bright shiny outer hull.
Dry or wet cloth is useless and acetone would melt the ABS I suspect. Once dry it's almost impossible to to sand without damaging the plastic sheet. So I wondered if you good people know the answer. (Yes I know I shouldn't get any where it's not wanted, but easier said than done.) I suppose masking tape would help, and I will try that later.
I would still love to find something to remove any errant glue, before it sets hard.
Thanks in advance,
Glyn.
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Tough one ( pun intended ), it does harden off over a few days and can be sanded with clean sandpaper / flies etc. - it clogs sandpaper / flies very quickly.
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Hi I was constructing a (plastic) model yacht a while back and it had a 40 inch hull and the deck had to be glued on in one session. I was advised to tape up as if for painting, you can do it quickly then. If I was doing it again I would have used a good quality sealant.
With luck as above let it dry and sand carefully and paint over the area.
good luck,
The glue is excellent, filleing and bonding, is there an equivalent?
Roy
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Thanks both, looks like I'll be sanding for a week. I have tried taping, it helps somewhat. Yes Roy there's an alternative, just as good, I'm told,
UHU plus acrylit is a 2-component acrylate adhesive for quickly setting bonds on many types of material and also ideal for model making. Very strong, it covers gaps and is grindable. It is highly resistant to vibration. Working time is 7-10 minutes, curing after 15-20 minutes; grindable after 25 minutes.
It's cheaper as well.
Cheers both, Glyn.
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I've used methylated spirits with some success. Try it on a test piece first to avoid damaging the model
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Thanks both, looks like I'll be sanding for a week. I have tried taping, it helps somewhat. Yes Roy there's an alternative, just as good, I'm told,
UHU plus acrylit is a 2-component acrylate adhesive for quickly setting bonds on many types of material and also ideal for model making. Very strong, it covers gaps and is grindable. It is highly resistant to vibration. Working time is 7-10 minutes, curing after 15-20 minutes; grindable after 25 minutes.
It's cheaper as well.
Cheers both, Glyn.
Its essentially the same stuff in different packaging. Both UHU and Stabilit are owned by Henkel. They are branded differently for different market areas
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Thanks Essex... I shall note that in my little book of things not to forget.
regards Roy
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As I remember ( from my little book!) UHU is a little cheaper, or it was. Not looked recently. Also no guide lines in English, but you can find some on tintenet.
Cheers all, Glyn.
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Hi, I remember 20 years ago the only place I could find to buy it was when I visited my son in Germany, so I bought more than i needed and then found that the 'glue' component went hard in the tube. I think I went on to araldite and some micro balls.
I have a little book called 'Notes on boats' I write up each model during construction together with dates.
When I start a model I write out a wish list, many seem impossible but the little grey cells have a meeting when I am asleep and come up with solutions, sometimes! Not necessarilly a quick process either!
I had put aside a 95% finished model of a GG ferry as I could not think of a way to secure the super structure if the boat was hit when in the water. Solution came a year later with some newly acquired lifebelts which I drilled and fitted with a brass rod that was used to pin the s/s in place. Just waiting for the warmer weather. In the meantime I am going to find my own warm weather down under,
regards Roy
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Just a thought on finish after sanding. I have never tried but would an auto paint abrasive polish (like autosol) polish out the scratches leaving a smooth finish?
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Not tried this, but been told T Cut is one option.
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I don't know what is in Autosol, but T Cut should not leave any troublesome residues, and T Cut is probably safer.
You could always try a little on the inside of the hull.
Ultimately, if you paint that will cover a multitude of sins.
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Hi Guys have tried to scan and post the tech sheet for this glue with out success. I have found when the glue sets sanding is the best way of removing the glue. I tend to mask off any area that may be damaged by excess glue
the following is taken from data sheet. Cleaning: Before the adhesive has hardened remove excess adhesive and clean the tools. For this purpose, acetone or a thinner for nitrocellulose lacquer is suitable. The same applies to excess glue on clothing. Adhesive residues in the mixing tub can be removed by pressing on the underneath side. The hardened adhesive can only be softened and removed after a long soaking [period using the solvents methylene chloride or trichloroethylene (Tri). Please pay attention to protection like protective eye glasses, ventilation.
Hope this helps .
Stab
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I use this adhesive a lot and I have tried all things to remove dried glue and I have found sanding is the only way. Masking tape is the best way to stop the problem of over spill.
Resistance.
UHU plus acrylit is resistant to water, diluted acids and alkalines, petrol and mineral oil. It is also resistant to extreme weather conditions and can withstand temperatures from -30c to plus 90c giving a very long lasting bond.
I used this glue to fix a motor mount into a styrene hull but the vibration from the motor broke away the motor mountings. Hope this helps.
Stan. {:-{ {:-{ {:-{ {:-{ {:-{
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Once acrylate or methacrylate adhesives have set anything that softens them will soften the plastic parts of the model if moulded in ABS or HIPS etc