Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Yachts and Sail => Topic started by: stringer on January 29, 2017, 11:58:37 am
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Hi everyone
looking for some help on deck planking, I am finishing the last part fitting the forward king plank in, when this is complete I want to infill between the planks with a black filler, the planks were spaced apart using black twine leaving me with a gap of approx. 1mm between planks, I would like the infill to be level with the deck when finished.
my problem is I need advice on how and what do I use as the infill, have taken some photo's so hopefully you will see my efforts
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sorry I did not put the photo's on so here they are
stringer
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hi guy's does anyone know the answer to my question, its 2 weeks and still no answer from the forum, and I was hoping someone could enlighten me, I can't believe no one has met this problem before !!!!!
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I have seen on forums that people use black card glued edge in into the gap using pva coloured with black food colouring or permanent ink, and have also seen builders just using water resistant glue such as aliphatic resin, coloured again with black colouring or even ink from a tech drawing set such as Rotring and fed in with a syringe and "large bore" needle fitted.
Jim.
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This may be a bit of over kill but as you have built it like areal one why not use Sikaflex deck Caulk (do a Google) then put it in to a Syringe ,when set scrape with a Stanley blade then sand smooth ,not done this on a model ,but have repaired the real thing . If you get a Syringe with a plastic outlet not a needle it might work . DO NOT be tempted to use black silicone as overspill will stop any deck coating sticking to the wood work .
just my thoughts .Just noticed your time I have replied before you sent your post !!!!!!!!
David
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Hi
I have made a small replica deck on some spare wood using off cuts of the same decking wood,separated the planks with the thread to give the same gap, I used waterproof pa glue mixed with black powder into a paste, applied it to the plank gap, it sinks into the grain and looks awful after rubbing to remove surplus infill, so back to square one, should I seal the planking with something to stop the infill from going into the grain of the planks
Geoff
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I think if you seal the deck first however you try to fill the gaps it might not adhere to the wood , if you do not like the deck caulk idea how about black Bostic , just a thought .
David
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Hi yes I think your right about sealing the deck first, this will fill the gaps in the planks with sealer not the infill I am looking for, I will have a look at Bostick, it needs to be something that sticks to the wood, but not penitrate the grain good idea thanks
Geoff
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I've also heard good reports of the black paper / card method.....
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,36872.msg509994.html#msg509994
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,37681.msg376751.html#msg376751
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,43803.msg530775.html#msg530775
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,44007.msg518644.html#msg518644
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,40190.msg401553.html#msg401553
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Hi Martin
thanks for taking the time to look through the forum for the above, my problem is the deck planking is down, and it seems what ever I use it leaks into the grain of the planks, somewhere in all the garage boxes there is a roll of mastic which can be rolled to a thin diameter and forced into the grooves, my only concern here is will the sealer cover the mastic.
ah well I wont know until I have found the right box. and tried it on another sample of planks.
thanks again
Geoff
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OK, how big are the plank gaps?
How thick is the planking?
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Hi martin
gaps are 1 to 1.5mm, planks are 4mm thick, and each plank is 10mm wide
Geoff
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I wonder if you could pure paint, died pva, etc, and sand it back afterwards?
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I think I would test run some of this stuff on some scrap wood just to see how it performs before putting it on your lovely boat. It may work but I have never used it; just something I found trawling the internet. http://www.screwfix.com/p/nemesis-mighty-frame-glazing-sealant-black-290ml/3534j
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Hi Mark
like the Idea of this, will see if I can get some and do some tests on some spare plank offcuts, will let you know the outcome
Geoff
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You might have to lightly varnish / seal the wood first to prevent the goop seeping into the planks.
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Hi Martin
Can I ask if you have used this sealant before.
Geoff
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No, not actual sealant, I've used matt paint, the little tinlets, leave the lid off for a few hours to let it evaporate / thicken up a bit!
You could try applying with a syringe and needle!
.... experiment! :-))
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Thanks Martin
Would the method you advise work like this.
Thin down and lightly seal the entire deck making sure it sinks into the joints of the planks, but not puddle or fill the joint, this should when dry leave the joints clear and ready for filling with the chosen infill, this should stop the infil medium from leaching into the planks,allow to dry before filling in the joints.on completion and when the joint infill is thoroughly dry which may take some time, then lightly sand all the deck and apply a good exterior varnish.
I will try this out on a sample deck first though
Geoff
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I'm no expert at this sort of thing but for for experimentation, maybe make test piece of a few planks, as per the real deck and paint the gaps as best you can. Wait a good 24 hours and give it a rub down and what you get! :-)
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Another idea would be to use self amalgamating tape cut into strips and trawled in with a cocktail stick . Sickaflex caulk will not stain the wood it does not on real teak decks I would still be inclined to try that . David
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Hi David and Martin
Have bought the sealer and the tape today, but will be busy until the weekend before I can try both, will let you know how I get on
Geoff
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Should be be an interesting experiment! ... I have made it clear that I have no idea what I'm talking about haven't I?! %)
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Hi Martin
Your still OK as I have,t used the seaLer yet, Dave on the other hand, I could not wait to try it out and
Wait for it, It did not work, how ever much I pressed it into the joint it would pop right out, it sticks to itself but not anything else, glass, wood, metal, tried them all to no avail, so I had to give it a go or there is no reason asking the forum for advice, sorry David.
Your turn next Martin it might be the weekend before I can let you know
Geoff
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Hi there, iv'e only just spotted this post. I did a trawler deck (Nordcap) years ago in a similar style to yours. I used rigging twine as the caulk and then applied the finishing. Im sure rigging twine comes in different colours, but if not i'm sure it could be died (dyed!!).
Good luck. Alan
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As per link, (http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/11814-wax-caulking/) using wax may be a possibility.
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Well Martin
Yes it Does work using the black sealer, but I will have to find a finer nozzle though as the one supplied with the sealer even at its smallest produces an 1/8" diameter flow, I do have a small syringe which I use to fill the prop and rudder tubes on my schooner with grease but even that isn't small enough, also it's like s--t to a blanket it gets every where, but if I can find a syringe with a nozzle that is small enough I will be in business
Thanks for everyone's input and thanks again to you Martin .
Will put some pics on when I complete the deck
Before I do anything more I will dye the outer deck plank around the edge of the boat, and the King plank to a dark colour and then the remainder can remain a honey colour, then seal ready for the infill
Geoff S