Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: roycv on February 09, 2017, 10:57:09 pm
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Hi all, I bought a complete Talacre on ebay a while back which was a static model. It is quite nicely done but has a little damage and needs a good clean up. I am OK with the RC conversion but there are no instructions/building notes and I would like to correct the wrong way round bridge.
Having looked at it and seen that the white metal fittings are a bit fragile, I am looking for advice on how to undo what is there and re-assemble without causing too much damage.
Anyone done this already? Would appreciate their advice.
Best regards Roy
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If it has been bonded with superglue, you may be able to dismantle the structure by carefully running some acetone in between the joints. Some clean up will probably be required though.
Otherwise it might be best to run a fine saw between the parts to separate them.
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Hi Roy
Is there any chance you can post a pic of the model bridge before you dis-assemble it? Cos I have been looking at pics of other models and to me it does look as though they have been built the wrong way round - but - obviously not. I am just wondering if have you have not seen the plans or anything; you may be under the wrong impression - just a thought though.
John
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The bridge on the Talacre kit was incorrect when it was introduced and the manufacturers have never corrected it.
Colin
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Thanks for responding, mine is the wrong way round. I have looked on the Talacre build thread and the picture of the bridge but could not work out how to un-build it.
It looks as though the 2 ladders that lead up to the bridge at either side from the deck are not needed?
regards Roy
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Here is a picture of my Talacre with the bridge the other way around (the correct way)
I hope it helps you in your quest
ken
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Thanks Bluebird, looks very nice, how far down does the bridge structure go down?
regards Roy
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Hi Roy
I built this kit a while back and followed the incorrect plans. I do intend to split the steering platform and reverse to the correct position. I will need to remove the two ladders and handrails then carefully separate the platform from the bottom cabin. My side metal supports carry power to the cabin and running lights so not that easy to remove. I super glued them in place so they are not that secure and should decamp with a bit of effort. Should then be a simple job to reverse and refit and move all the bits to the correct position.
Have you managed to change yours and if so how did you fare.
Dave
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Hello Ken
I have a Talacre acquired part built from EBay, including the incorrect bridge. Your picture explains everything. Many Thanks
John
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Has anybody noticed the coal bunker tops behind the bridge? They have doors from the deck into them, that cannot be correct either
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Hi dave still trying to decide where to wield the knife!
Moved over to the model railway at the moment.
regards Roy
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Hi Roy
When I change mine I will post Details.
Thanks
dave
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Hi Dave that's very kind of you I look forward to it.
regards Roy
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Hi all, I took the plunge and sawed off the upper bridge deck. It was glued on with 'hot glue' and very strong too. I can see how to turn it around, so O.K with that now.
The prop shaft is non standard as the ends are threaded!!!! I tried removing the tube but it was stuck fast.
I found a 4mm shaft which is a good fit and have used the Deans prop tube mix in the tube, will test tomorrow to see if there is any water incursion.
I am fitting a slow turning Buhler motor and a 4 blade 40 mm prop which on test looks fine and very low current but churns up a lot of water in the kitchen sink.
The Buhler motor is labeled 12 -18 volts, it is slightly bigger than a 540 motor and I tested on 7,2 volts. The measured on load current on 7.2 volts was just 0,25 amps, less than 2 watts! Motor stall current was 1 amp.
I think I shall make up a 12 volt pack from 2 off 5 cell packs. I think 7.2 volts will give scale speed but I like to be able to stop quickly.
Does anyone know the displacement of the model? Looks about 5 -6 kgrms.
I am missing the main mast so will have to make another one, can you get odd fittings from Caldercraft kits?
Thanks again for the pictures. I have also found tug-kennys build blog, very useful.
regards Roy
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roycv
Do you have the location for tug-kennys build blog as I would like to read it.
Thanks in anticipation
Bob
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Here you go.
Glad to be of service. :-))
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,43099.msg435210.html#msg435210
I would be glad to answer any questions that you may have.
Cheers
ken
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I too purchased a part built Talacre from EBay with the bridge the wrong way round. The top is slightly loose so may have the courage one day to reverse it. The side doors on mine are slightly further aft than Kens, in line with the vents above and up against the porthole. Mine runs on an MFA Geared 2.5:1 motor, 7.2V 4.3A/Hr NiMh Batt and a 40 mm 3 bladed brass prop. Displacement is 5.5 Kg.
Interestingly I also have the Mountfleet Models Ben Ain, a 1:32 model of a virtually identical ship, and from what I can find on Google the bridge on that model, which is as same as the 'incorrect' Talacre, is the same as the real thing. The pictures are a bit small or fuzzy but at least one has the two ladders on the front side of the bridge.
John
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Hi Buccanear, the motor is a good logical choice how long does the battery run for?
Thanks for the displacement info, I shall look out some lead or steel and get her down to the waterline. In another boat I used 2p coins rolled into tubes and stuck in place, works out quite cheap!
As I have now gone up to 12 volts I have a spare Electronize esc by me. It does mean having a separate battery for the Rx though.
I have just bought a Tx Rx charger from Howes made by Fusion NX 83, this has a trickle charger for the Tx. but the Rx. charger is a Delta peak one and so you can leave the battery in place and charge from a connection on deck and know it is fully charged. Most of my other models are lower voltage and there is a built in bec supply in the esc. so no problem.
At the moment I am working on 3 boats at once which is working out well with one of them I can sit down to!
Looking forward to some warmer weather now.
regards Roy
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hi all,
just out of interest, there is a lovely book - which has been available for some time - its called 'Steam Coasters and Short Sea Traders' by SS Shotton ISBN Number 0 905184 04 1.
This book covers the majority of Coasters and also the Coaster Talacre is mentioned several times in the book - it may be of great help.
You may find this book available on Ebay at a reasonable price :-)
John
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Hello Roy
One more point. If you have not yet bought your motor consider the Mabuchi 555. It is a good solid motor, I have it fitted in two boats and am about to replace the MFA ones in my Tug with a pair of 555's. details on Component Shop Website. Currently £11 with mounting, and it doesn't have the noise of the gearbox.
John
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Hi Buccaneer, just run out of 555's! My last one is in an Ogdensburg by Glyn Guest yet to hit the water. Found a friend with a 555 and I am hoping to buy it. Another way of finding motors is to use a higher voltage (24 - 30 volt) on a lower voltage and they turn big props direct and as you say very quietly.
But I do have 2 more of the motors I mentioned. When checking for power use a meter on amps to check the stall current. If you then run the motor at 20 - 25 % of this current it should be at its most efficient point.
I have some lovely old commercial Pittman motors but they are rated for 50 volts and even at 12 volts they do not have enough oomph. I have some identical 12 volt ones I run in a Harbour Defence Launch and top speed was fast but motors only took 0,7 amps on 8 cells.
Thanks for the heads up on the book Bluebird.
regrds Roy
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Hi Kenny, (or other Talacre builders) I am locating the rudder into position. As I do not have any unfitted parts I am trying to work out the best way to hold the lower pintle for the rudder. I see there are 2 guide holes in the hull for positioning 'something'
I looked at your build pictures and can you tell me did you bolt strips of maybe brass either side and extend to bottom of rudder?
Another question. I have the stern deck casting with the bollard on top. Does this sit on a box structure to cover hole over the rudder access point?
I am progressing! I hope to launch soon.
regards Roy
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Here you go. yes I can see it's rubbish, but it works. {-)
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Hi Kenny thanks for the response. Can you tell me what goes under the bollard casting on the aft deck please?
regards Roy
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Not sure what you mean here, but is this the area ?
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Hi Kenny, does the item you have painted silver come off? Am I right and that it covers or fits into the hole in the deck above the rudder. I was wondering what it looked like underneath?
regards Roy
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Yes, I always have an inspection cover over the rudder linkages for ease of maintenance.
The metal case is glued to the box below which lifts off from an internal ridge secured to the deck. There's enough room for fingers to access, should the need arise.
Hope this helps.
ken
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Thanks Kenny I will go and construct the box and see how that works out. OK, I have another question!!!!
How long is the main mast from deck to top of the mast? I have the mast aft the funnel and I think most of the fittings but no main mast or fittings. I shall plunder my Billings fittings for lights etc.
I bought the boat from a lady who was disposing of her late brother's effects and she thought I had paid way too much for it! But there was also a pile of books and a Monoperm super still in its box as well. It was a close contest on ebay and I did not live too far away, so I was able to collect it.
I expect something else will come up I have not thought of yet Kenny, so your help is most appreciated, it would be nice if I could borrow some plans for a month from somebody, assuming there were any.
Hi Buccaneer I have another 555 motor for my next boat.
Slightly off subject did anyone read Glynn Guest's piece on esc's in Model Boats magazine this month? I could kick myself for not trying this years ago!
regards Roy
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I have the complete instruction along with all the plans. :o
So if any one wants any details or a copy of my photographed copies ( which came out at 200 mega bytes for the lot) then let me know and I will email them to you.
@ Roy. The mast is two and half times the length of the funnel (both from deck to tops)
Hope this helps
ken
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Hi Kenny I have sent you a PM.
Roy
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Hi Roy,
I will post the plans to your personal email. As mentioned above they are rather large in the megabytes stake so I'll send them in several Emails.
Cheers
ken
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You should be able to reduce the file sizes without losing any significant detail Ken
Colin
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Hi Colin,
I have now sent them off in batches of 2. I did think of reducing their size but wanted the quality of the details to remain as the paper was 'browning' with age. I wait with baited breath as to the result of the transmission.
I must say it made me feel like building her again as she's a lovely little ship. Seems like ages since I built her (with your kind help)
ken
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A word of warning as regards rudders and using M2 grub screws with hex to secure them: .9mm allen keys are darn difficult to get in the hole and in the confined space of an access hatch, ny-on impossible.
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I think there is what looks like access via the lift of rear deck. It's so long since I built her.
ken
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Hi Ken thank you very much for producing the photos, very much appreciated. I am just after positioning the detail and the plans should solve any issues I have.
I shall print them in the morning thanks again,
best regards.
Roy
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Hi Ballstankasian, I have made a brass tiller with a collar soldered on and the allen key access is off centre to allow access. Good point though as maintenance is always needed and I assume that if it can go wrong it will go wrong!
regards Roy
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Hi Ken, I have printed out the plan I wanted (came out quite clear) and made the box section mounting for the grating feature at the very stern of the boat. I have made this to glue onto a filler / cover that is a tight fit in the tiller access hole.
Next problem is reducing the thick spray on paint which has obscured the plating on the hull. Seems to sand paper off we shall see! Good news is that it is an excellent match for Halfords red primer.
regards Roy
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:-)) Glad you're a happy bunny.
The red primer is my favourite paint. It used to be called Red Oxide. I wonder what they removed when the oxide name disappeared. ?
Cheers
ken
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If you sand off the paint,you might sand off some of the plating detail? Might be better to chemical strip paint off then re-apply thin layer?
Chris B
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Hi Chris, understand what you say but I am using a piece of sandpaper very lightly and the paint is coming off in a fine powder. The rivet detail is starting to show through and looks good. From the way it is coming off I think I am going to have to seal it with a lacquer spray.
On the other hand it has overlaid the matt black on the upper hull and looks very good as rust!
Thanks for the interest,
regards Roy