Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: T33cno on March 14, 2017, 07:35:51 pm
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I'm sorry that my Billings Smit Rotterdam is too far on to start afresh with a blog BUT
My Portgarth arrives this Friday so I'll supply pictures as I go from day one.
For those interested I do still upload Rotty pics here. I'm a beginner but doing not too bad.
https://techno.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/ (https://techno.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-NDSGGHd/0/X2/IMG_0308-X2.jpg)
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True to form I got my dispatch email today for overnight delivery :-))
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The box
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-d2SKmCs/0/X2/IMG_0783-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-PdwxjRJ/0/X2/IMG_0784-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-4pnX9L9/1/X2/IMG_0786-X2.jpg)
Here we go
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-hKQKz3p/0/X2/IMG_0787-X2.jpg)
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I guess I'll start with the Skeg and making a stand.
To bow thrust or NOT to bow thrust, what do you think?
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If you are going to try towing with your tug then its a Big YES...
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What are the bits on the top shelf from.
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What are the bits on the top shelf from.
Halfords
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Bow thruster defentaly . You will have more fun
John
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Halfords
Think he means the other shelf {-) {-)
Ned
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Think he means the other shelf {-) {-)
Ned
Yes I know {-)
If he looks at the Tug under the bench O0
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My Afon Alaw has the biggest Roebesch thruster fitted but it will rotate on the spot just with the steerable korts and appropriate prop rotation.
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Walked past the 1:1 version last week
in the Fishdock.
Ned
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Ok first up is a reality check.
It's not safe to rely on the MMM casting marks for rudders Korts or props, best only for an approximation.
Using a number of set squares to cross check I have attained accurate parallel centre lines.
The hull without deck is currently 301mm wide.
The Kort or rudder centres are 70mm either side of Keel line and 80mm from each edge
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-g4WqRRq/0/X2/IMG_0788-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-cPmhKd5/0/L/IMG_0790-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-nKj89RS/0/L/IMG_0789-L.jpg)
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Kort holes drilled with a pilot then a quality step drill
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-FsxTXdF/0/XL/IMG_0791-XL.jpg)
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Korts assembled and cleaned up with files and sandpaper
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-QLfz435/0/XL/IMG_0792-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-q3L7dx5/0/L/image-L.jpg)
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I must point out that I'm disappointed with the inconsistency.
The kort tube support on the left is beautiful but the one on the right should have been binned IMHO
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-rxQcNJb/0/L/IMG_0796-L.jpg)
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Setting those Kort shafts up perpendicular and parallel is going to be quite a feat I think.
For now I'm preparing the motor mounts with 140mm centres
Using an offcut of Paxolin from work I will drill and tap this.
Paxolin is made from laminated resin bonded paper and is waterproof.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-fVCXjWr/0/L/IMG_0797-L.jpg)
These motors are much BIGGER than the MMM T12 but they are a 12 pole low rev motor and I imagine quite a bit more powerful. They are so big that standard motor mount brackets have to be modified
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Afon/i-k8sH5rh/0/XL/IMG_0623-XL.jpg)
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Again pilot holes and step drill. Will file out tomorrow
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-pkBtxzG/0/X2/IMG_0798-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-nPNDKSj/0/X2/IMG_0799-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-BPPJFdX/0/X2/IMG_0800-X2.jpg)
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Ok guys
If I don't fit it I won't have the option :-))
So rather than the twin prop Raboesch that is fitted in my Athon I've opted for the largest paddle version.
My thinking is that if it fails it is easy to fix whilst as far as I know the twin prop version would have to be cut out if the drive wears out.
Local Leeds model shop happened to be cheapest too
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-DmqbFSZ/0/XL/IMG_0802-XL.jpg)
Today I must focus on making a stand before going any further
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Well that was relatively painless and FREE. Some of the junk I keep in the shed just in case that the wife <*< on about finally got put to good use {-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-5GFChdX/0/X2/IMG_0803-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-Nk5wjwd/0/X2/IMG_0805-X2.jpg)
Just to cut slots for the prop shafts
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-n7BtQF5/0/X2/IMG_0804-X2.jpg)
An afterthought! I could actually put a base and a pair of wheels on that for transport :-))
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Before starting this build I searched everywhere for other build blogs and frustratingly all threads died not long into the build.
This thread will run I promise.
Feel free to jump in anywhere with advice or even questions
Shortcut to all photos for those that can't be arsed with the reading {-)
https://techno.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-BPPJFdX
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Good luck with the build, I know where you are coming from re the hull moulding and quality of parts supplied with the kit. When you lay out that much money you would expect much better quality components to be supplied, I bought some Kort nozzles from them 70mm one was fine the other one looked like something from a Kindergarten play dough session! Okay a tiny bit of trimming we can accept but these nozzles looked like they had met up with a very coarse belt sander or a linisher and lets face it they are not cheap to buy.
Moan over.
Cheers, Pete.
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Thanks Pete
Yes they could be should be better
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Handy tip. The Kort tubes are 8mm ID and useful for aiding alignment if you are 8 to 8 like mine.
I may have to cut my motor mount in two to get lower.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-cb3JXFF/0/XL/IMG_0809-XL.jpg)(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-jPLDhgX/0/X2/IMG_0812-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-P59T8Tp/0/X2/IMG_0815-X2.jpg)
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I was right about motor mount :-))
Now in two halves
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-PfCfTLg/0/X2/IMG_0821-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-kvhMBHb/0/X2/IMG_0820-X2.jpg)
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Looking good :-)) them motors look good ..... what type are they.
Regards Dave.
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Made by Valeo I believe to drive a chair lift through a gearbox.
The pair in my Athon only draw 10.5 amps on full load
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Afon/i-qMs2RhS/0/L/IMG_0723-L.jpg)
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Thanks mate :-)) I do like the look of them.......will have to have a look on the web.
Regards Dave.
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Having satisfied myself that I've got the shallowest shaft angle possible, I've set the shaft supports in place with P38
The shaft ends are set as close to the Korts as possible with the Eze extensions removed.
I now have hands free for further fine adjustment. There is still play in the P bracket holes and not glued to the tubes at this point.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-K8rWWnw/0/L/IMG_0825-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-FrSBxVX/0/L/IMG_0824-L.jpg)
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Thanks mate :-)) I do like the look of them.......will have to have a look on the web.
Regards Dave.
These are the closest regular boat motor but small in comparison and mine have huge bearings and 8mm shaft
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/cem900.html
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At this early stage I'm already thinking this must have a huge displacement so I would think it ought to handle 2x12 volt 9ah ?
This should enable well over two hours play
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-hDDBQD5/0/XL/IMG_0827-XL.jpg)
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These are the closest regular boat motor but small in comparison and mine have huge bearings and 8mm shaft
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/cem900.html
The 900 motors are what I have in my maltby driving 65mm props runs very well with loads of power.
Regards Dave.
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Glad I made the stand which works equally well upside down. Many jobs would be so difficult without it.
Bowthruster marked, I've chosen a spot that allows the maximum length of tube
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-TNwhD7J/0/X2/IMG_0828-X2.jpg)
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:-))
My first ever cut & thrust. Now please tell me what is the best fixing method? should I go with the P38 or Resin?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-XhXtkp8/0/X2/IMG_0837-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-sSh2s8R/0/X2/IMG_0840-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-q7nvdt9/0/X2/IMG_0839-X2.jpg)
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I would apply P38 to the outside to hold it in position and then resin the inside for strength. When dry, you can smooth down the outside flush with the hull, knowing that it is held firmly (and permanently) by the resin.
Hope this helps
ken
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I would apply P38 to the outside to hold it in position and then resin the inside for strength. When dry, you can smooth down the outside flush with the hull, knowing that it is held firmly (and permanently) by the resin.
Hope this helps
ken
Yes that makes very good sense! thank you Ken
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I'm often faced with the same type of problem. P38 does tend to be brittle when out loose in the air and not supported very well.
glad to help
ken
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I'm often faced with the same type of problem. P38 does tend to be brittle when out loose in the air and not supported very well.
glad to help
ken
Very much appreciated :-))
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That's looking very neat :-))
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That's looking very neat :-))
Thanks yes I'm quite chuffed :-)
I drilled a couple of 25mm holes close together each side with a thin wall hole saw and then purely half round file. Took about half hour
Thruster is 28mm OD
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Notes of the day
1 :- Steve @ modelboatbits is altering two powerflex couplings for me to give 8mm to 8mm plain. Not a stock item.
2 :- I've emailed MMM about the Kort tube supports and asked for a replacement for the rubbish one.
No reply yet
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P38 has no strength in it st all...use P40 to fix the shafts in place or even epoxy glue
Dave
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Cheers Dave :-))
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It has occurred to me that as I've made such a good job of my thruster holes that this would be a good time to transfer them into a template for future builds or sharing
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Today at work I explored the possibilities for something to align the Kort tunnels and I came across some stock copper pipe end caps that fit like a glove :-)) .
Props are on order with Simon at Protean and should be with me soon UNLIKE the SIX WEEK nonsense of prop shop >>:-(
A replacement Kort support is on its way from MMM but did not arrive today.
EDIT
These end caps are a no.67 that I believe relates to the O.D. of the pipe 67mm so the outside diameter is bang on 70mm
Friday is SMELLY day. I don't work Friday so anything that gets up the wifes nose must be done then!
Isopon etc is taboo <*<
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-sT5j8qB/1/X2/IMG_0844-X2.jpg)
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This is my demountable platform for all the Action electronics. Paxolin glues very quickly with the product pictured. I've also made the stern tube support bulkhead of the same.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-WX4gQ4X/0/XL/IMG_0852-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-prwkgW7/0/XL/IMG_0850-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-dBNdsX7/0/XL/IMG_0853-XL.jpg)
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Looking good but unfortunately this Kort is full of pin holes and requires time and expense that should not really be needed.
The colour is Halfords filler primer and its going to need a good bit more
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-QXJS5Tn/0/XL/IMG_0845-XL.jpg)
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I'm absolutely impressed with this Zap A Gap glue
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-rXGxtcw/0/XL/IMG_0854-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-tb2MnV6/0/X2/IMG_0855-X2.jpg)
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So props and bow thruster glassed in (thanks to those who gave advice) :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-VjS4RgW/0/XL/IMG_0867-XL.jpg)
Ready for filler
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-H4zLS9h/0/XL/IMG_0866-XL.jpg)
All abraded
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-83J2j3n/0/XL/IMG_0868-XL.jpg)
secured externally and ready for triming later
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-hZ9LqHn/0/XL/IMG_0869-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-23xkpzc/0/XL/IMG_0872-XL.jpg)
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Sikaflex 221 PU adhesive filler has just arrived so I'm going to set my motors & mounts in place next.
Props arrived yesterday from Protean :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-P8qWH65/0/XL/IMG_0859-XL.jpg)
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Re the bow thruster.
The Athon I bought had a leaking bow thruster because the self tapping screws supplied had caused the housing holes to crack.
To avoid this on my new one I will discard the supplied screws and drill/tap 3mm to accept SS M3 pozidrives.
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Experienced opinion required please.
The MMM plans are non specific of a profile for the rear of the skeg.
This is where I'm at now, am I anything like expected?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-x5j42qz/1/L/IMG_0878-L.jpg)
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Portgarth's skeg was increased in size from the original build. This picture shows the original and how it was extended forward and deepened.
(https://attachment.outlook.office.net/owa/channelimages@hotmail.co.uk/service.svc/s/GetAttachmentThumbnail?id=AQMkADAwATY0MDABLTkzYTMtMjUxYi0wMAItMDAKAEYAAAOGzjUIj8iPQYzO2iFw2h3QBwDqPQKqSnweTodFKWrbDSHQAAACPAgAAADqPQKqSnweTodFKWrbDSHQAAABASaJAAAAARIAEABT3b53Te%2FET6YE8FaSw6hd&thumbnailType=2&X-OWA-CANARY=IkzGzRhpiU6gsZwbCuO46sAgitLqctQYvezJVhL1nPZIxiuOCq8GSFMeVM4hyTzXR1nqWNedqdU.&token=610f2c29-7217-44f8-b99c-036b1a1a0909&owa=outlook.live.com&isc=1)
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Portgarth's skeg was increased in size from the original build. This picture shows the original and how it was extended forward and deepened.
(https://attachment.outlook.office.net/owa/channelimages@hotmail.co.uk/service.svc/s/GetAttachmentThumbnail?id=AQMkADAwATY0MDABLTkzYTMtMjUxYi0wMAItMDAKAEYAAAOGzjUIj8iPQYzO2iFw2h3QBwDqPQKqSnweTodFKWrbDSHQAAACPAgAAADqPQKqSnweTodFKWrbDSHQAAABASaJAAAAARIAEABT3b53Te%2FET6YE8FaSw6hd&thumbnailType=2&X-OWA-CANARY=IkzGzRhpiU6gsZwbCuO46sAgitLqctQYvezJVhL1nPZIxiuOCq8GSFMeVM4hyTzXR1nqWNedqdU.&token=610f2c29-7217-44f8-b99c-036b1a1a0909&owa=outlook.live.com&isc=1)
?
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There seems to be a problem with your pictures not showing. They may be too large for the forum. If, however they are hosted, then that is where the problem may lie.
ken
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Please email to watersa@ntlworld.com and I will host & post it :-))
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Photos from my PC. Have moved to different photo storage site, here you go:
(http://i202.photobucket.com/albums/aa13/channelimages/IMG_0087.jpg) (http://s202.photobucket.com/user/channelimages/media/IMG_0087.jpg.html)
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Thanks Channel but the skeg is in darkness <:(
Thanks for the email Chris super pics :-))
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Motor mounts now set on Sikaflex 221
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-dntfDBx/0/XL/IMG_0882-XL.jpg)
Bushes for Korts used as alignment tools 8mm to 8mm
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-BhvqFKH/0/XL/IMG_0879-XL.jpg)
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Had to spend far too much time filling pin holes in these Korts >:-o
I think I'm going to stick with the primer colour and satin clear coat over this
What do you think?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-Qn7QtXZ/0/L/IMG_0883-L.jpg)
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New toy
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-3ZfH6jh/0/XL/IMG_0887-XL.jpg)
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That worked out a treat thanks Ken
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-5M59ML3/0/XL/IMG_0888-XL.jpg)
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Like the new toy, I've been lookingbat them on flebay.
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Like the new toy, I've been lookingbat them on flebay.
Screwfix £120
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Cheaper than flebay :-))
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Tidy
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-QqM2XwJ/0/L/IMG_0889-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-nqRM9mr/0/L/IMG_0890-L.jpg)
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I can see now that there isn't a very straight centre line in the hull moulding at the bow. Perhaps it has always been this way or just tired?
I like complete symmetry so some hard sanding and filling in order.
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I can see now that there isn't a very straight centre line in the hull moulding at the bow. Perhaps it has always been this way or just tired?
I like complete symmetry so some hard sanding and filling in order.
Starboard side inverted, perfect
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-RgBHWcr/0/XL/IMG_0892-XL.jpg)
Port side tom tit
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-XWzc9G6/0/XL/IMG_0893-XL.jpg)
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What fantastic weather today for cracking on :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-mWFMn9W/0/X2/IMG_0894-X2.jpg)
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This is the Halfords red primer topped with clear satin lacquer. I think it'll do.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-DTDgz5d/0/XL/IMG_0896-XL.jpg)
I've pinned the skeg with stainless steel servo pushrod rather than brass as suggested by MMM
This is before pushing home and glueing with Zap A Gap
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-hcGkn66/0/L/IMG_0897-L.jpg)
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Moving on from the bow and how it lacks symmetry and quality of finish either side of the centre line. The stern is just as bad if not worse. This picture doesn't fully capture how poor it is and I can't stand it like it is!
so much Isopon is going to be needed to satisfy. Not what I expected from a ready made hull that cost as much as a full size bath tub.
This again is the PORT SIDE as if it's a poor copy of the starboard.
Any other Portgarth builders suffered this?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-d47KLH6/0/XL/IMG_0899-XL.jpg)
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I'm happy with my work. Skeg is rock solid :-))
One more pass of P38 and a coat of Z-poxy resin will see it ready for primer
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-trTChND/0/XL/IMG_0903-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-mGksHVt/0/XL/IMG_0902-XL.jpg)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-VNRXq82/0/X2/IMG_0910-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-zdW6hFf/0/L/IMG_0909-L.jpg)
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Just a tiny bit of filler to finish the rectification once the primer is hard.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-P4T6hmF/0/X2/IMG_0905-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-sPrWWGM/0/X2/IMG_0907-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-WW5t2f5/0/X2/IMG_0908-X2.jpg)
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A different view. Next the Korts and Anchor whatsits
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-ZfmJ5mc/0/X2/IMG_0900-X2.jpg)
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Very smart :-)) :-))
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Very smart :-)) :-))
Thanks for the encouragement :-))
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It is annoying when you see asymetry, it plays on your mind every time you see it. Lovely work so far. I am sad to see the vast difference in quality of resin casting in one batch as well. Mixing resin needs to be done with care as sir bubbles can be a biffer to remove without a pressure vessel to cure the castings in.
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Thanks :-) :-))
Yes the bulwark around the bow is also drunk
There are no templates in the pack for the anchor ports either :((
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Another flea in my bonnet is the Eze stern tubes
They send them assembled but the first thing you need to do is knock them apart >>:-( to fit the Korts
Is it just me or is that a bit lacking in fore thought?
For your information they are no longer threaded but a tight interference fit
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Just read your Portgarth build, your making a great job. pity about the crap hull and nozzle only bought off them once years ago, good luck with the rest of your build :-))
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Thanks I'll make a good tug out of it but I won't buy another sight unseen
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Morning T33
Great build and I'm looking forward to following this one.
Can I be nosy and ask a couple of question about your motors? Are they off the shelf items or taken from car heating systems etc.?
It's just that I'm looking at possibly building a tug myself and need to source a couple ~ something I haven't done for more years than I like to remember. But in those day you just popped down to the local scrapyard and got what you could find. H&S has put pay to that these days.
regards
Ant
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Thanks Ant
I don't think the motors are readily available I obtained them from a friend.
Any high torque low speed motor will do preferably 3000rpm max.
The T12 motors sold by MMM are ideal but not cheap
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Thanks for the reply. I shall continue my search :-))... that's the type of motors that I'm after as the they will need to swing props in the 90-100mm range.
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Yo T33,
Whatever you do don't try and build the superstructure using their template pack! Looking at your very high standard of build you will do a far better job on your own. I have built the following MMM tugs over the years-Norton Cross,Tid,Portgarth,Eldergarth and my own rub on a Norton cross hull (twin screw & Bowthruster) as I remember each of the hulls needed quite a bit of work to get to the standard I wanted involving a lot of time and effort on my part. Re the finish on the Kort nozzles its not good especially for the price you pay and if you think that is bad wait until you look at some of their funnels, the ones that came with my Norton cross kit were absolute rubbish I had to set out and square off the bases to both and reshape the angles so that they matched reasonably well. As to the alleged "ready to use" finish I think they had been roughly trimmed on some form of belt sander with a 40 grit belt. The white metal bits were also crap so I ended up making most of the bits and pieces. I think the problem lies in the moulds being too old and over used without renewal.
Your build is a very high standard and you should be proud! Good luck with the rest.
Cheers, Pete.
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Thank you Pete
Yes I only intend using the templates as a guide :-))
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Thank heaven today is over what a long day at work :((
Just have my tea then glue the first Kort support.
I'm not going for the blather it in crap option, when I complained of the finish of one of the supports Bryan said you're going to cover 80% of it in body filler {-) NOT!
5 min Gorilla epoxy coming up shortly.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-dPtt9g2/0/XL/IMG_0917-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-F9vpNkr/0/XL/IMG_0918-XL.jpg)
The replacement support was even a different colour resin so one cream one white {-) FFS
So I sprayed with red plastic primer.
You might notice I've added extra glass and tissue to the stern too, it was pretty thin.
Glue shortly
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-GmnVXXG/0/X2/IMG_0919-X2.jpg)
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Simply no need for all that P38 mess
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-ZBwkHjZ/0/X2/IMG_0920-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-3ZQ8GxR/0/X2/IMG_0921-X2.jpg)
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One down :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-F6NbQCM/0/X2/IMG_0925-X2.jpg)
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Hi Just two pictures showing the kort nozzle in a very small MM model. Note I have not covered the fitting totally in glue.
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:-)) Good I'm not doing it wrong then {-)
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The colour of the resin should not matter as long as it is the same type and quality of resin. naturally, if one was cast in a lighter resin then it may not have the same strength as the other. You were right to refuse the original support as it is just that, and if full bubbles to the point that it is resin foam (by the looks of it) then you are set up to fail. Some polymers are very strong even when foamed (Rohacel and hard polyurethane foams etc) but if it isn't meant to be foamed then it should have been binned or broken up to put into larger castings as pug.
I think what they have been doing is basically sound and they have some innovative ideas, but the quality of product seems to let them down, but that said, they are in business and enough customers are happy bunnies and so if we nudge them they will keep an eye on quality control.
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Can't wait to see how it sits on the water with these {-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-bmHwZ92/0/X2/IMG_0926-X2.jpg)
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They will definitly help but you will probably need a few more besides. She looks very tidy now :-))
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Thanks They will provide an easy continuous 2hrs with my motors but they may be too heavy in the finished vessel. Only testing will reveal :P
Edit gremlins are messing with font size :police:
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Hi again,
I think you will find that two batteries may not be enough ballast to get the waterline right, I had one battery at the bow end and one nearer the stern this together sheet lead flashing as required did the trick. Its a big hull and superb for towing, you are right about the hull being a bit thin in places I added a couple of extra layers of fibreglass matting to both the bow and stern of my Portgarth as they get bashed about a bit when you are towing. Looking good and very neat work!
Cheers, Pete.
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Thanks again Pete
I'll be happy if that's the case and can use a 7.2 lipo seperate for the bowthruster
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Excellent work there T33cno it's coming along great (shame about the poor quality hull!!) but well done in sorting it out and those Korts and Props look lovely which reminds me I must get around to ordering mine from Protean
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Thanks Paul
I'm enjoying the build and that's what matters !
We shall overcome :-))
I will no doubt buy more
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Aye 100% that's what matters, and it's all part of modelling although you expect it to be straighter than that, very nice build so far though and I will be keeping my eyes on this one maybe for my next build :-))
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iPhone 7 plus home screen 8)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-68p27td/0/X2/IMG_0929-X2.png)
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Hi Andy you have done a good job on them i hope to fit my ones on tomorrow plus all the electrical stuff.
Keep pictures coming O0
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Thank you, I'm looking forward to your update too :-))
Second fitted, both could do with shimming down a washer thickness each (steal from work) %%
I might do my full running instal now, just waiting on an esc for bowthruster from component shop
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-tt859kW/0/XL/IMG_0930-XL.jpg)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-TB7pVkG/0/XL/IMG_0932-XL.jpg)
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My component shelf lent itself nicely to aligning the korts :-)) fortuitous.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-JCnPNhb/0/XL/IMG_0935-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-6HwVqSS/0/XL/IMG_0934-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-kWcChQQ/0/XL/IMG_0933-XL.jpg)
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A friend bought the Lady Woos and lost the will to live after a bit {:-{ nearly ended up in the wheelie bin a couple of times !
Mainly because of poor templates and in his WORDS poor back up service . I've never dealt with MMM but always fancied
the Brackengarth myself {:-{ .But on the other hand must have hundreds of happy customers to be going as long as they have !!!!
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Also agree with T33cno not a lover of plastering P38 everywhere if it fits nice no need to lag filler everywhere :-)) :-))
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Thanks for your posts
Firstly I'm just reporting my findings as I go warts and all but not intending to belittle MMM. They provide a valuable service as a whole and many people have bought multiple models. :-))
I've decided not to proceed yet with the running gear as to tank test it would mean fitting the stern tube extensions. These are now much more difficult to remove and if you slip you risk knocking your Korts off !! there's no room for error.
The previous threaded design was IMHO better but more expensive to produce.
So I'll continue with the hull to the point that it is fully primed and laquered below the waterline then I can fit the Korts permanently
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Back on the job
Opened all the openings today and flatted all the gel coat ready for final primer before marking the waterline and lacquering. I sanded with a block initially to level out as much as possibly and finished with a medium grade red sponge thingy bob.
I also modified the stand so it is below the waterline otherwise I'd struggle when I come to mark it.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-CK9WPhb/0/XL/IMG_0943-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-Dxn92rj/0/XL/IMG_0944-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-qTmKbkP/0/XL/IMG_0945-XL.jpg)
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I've come up with a space saving storage idea too today.
Plumbing waste pipe
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-kMvkRxp/0/XL/IMG_0947-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-kCZ7Nnd/0/XL/IMG_0946-XL.jpg)
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You've just improved on my idea ok2 I've got mine some old postage tubes but I have to say yours are better, but if I had those I would probably be temped to use them for other things O0 but you only have to ask if you want to nick an idea {-)
Hull's looking great :-))
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Thanks Paul 8)
Now can any of those experienced! advise me of the best way to support the deck, is there a better option than that explained by MMM ?
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I've just sorted out the undulating bulwarks :-))
Meet my new toy
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-KZrDPWw/0/L/IMG_0949-L.jpg)
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Paxolin is so versatile :-))
I love this part
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-Bzdj9fJ/0/X2/IMG_0950-X2.jpg)
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I made up some deck beams for a friend once.I moulded two fibreglass U channels stuck them together with Gravicol which is a polyester bonding paste to form an i beam.Once all cured cut them to length and fibreglased them into the tug then used Gravicol once again to bond down the fibreglass deck.Now that is a strong deck !!! :-))
Advantage I have I work fibreglass so a lot easier for me,but tugs need to be strong O0 O0
Enjoying your photos
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Thanks Paul 8)
Now can any of those experienced! advise me of the best way to support the deck, is there a better option than that explained by MMM ?
Hi don’t know what method mmm suggested but this is the way I do my deck frames,
I apply 1mm plastic card around bulwarks using Z-Poxy I go for 5min setting time (messy but strong) I find this gives a good foundation to fit 10mm square frame work around bulwark using the same adhesive, I tend to use the 15min setting for the frame work. I have used this method on all of my builds it works for me plus you have a good finish on your bulwarks. Sorry a haven’t a better photo showing the frame work, this is my Maltby with the frame work in place and the deck is solid.
Brian
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Thanks for the very informative replies, food for thought.
Brian I have come to realise you are very much a GURU of tug building. I've just spent an hour adding some fantastic pictures of your work to my album for reference. Your metal crafting is fantastic too 8)
Not one of your close up detailed shots but I know it is extremely desirable :-))
(http://modeltugforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4527.0;attach=52732;image)
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I'm going to try the plasticard method :-))
Would I fit the card so it extends below the deck washports? seems logical.
Re:- what MMM recommend..........yes P38 again {:-{
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I'm going to try the plasticard method :-))
Would I fit the card so it extends below the deck washports? seems logical.
Re:- what MMM recommend..........yes P38 again {:-{
Yes Andy I take the plasticard about 20mm below the deck washports, I forgot to mention after fitting the frame for the deck i run a small amount of filler under the frame, this really supports the deck :-))
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Thanks for the very informative replies, food for thought.
Brian I have come to realise you are very much a GURU of tug building. I've just spent an hour adding some fantastic pictures of your work to my album for reference. Your metal crafting is fantastic too 8)
Not one of your close up detailed shots but I know it is extremely desirable :-))
(http://modeltugforum.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=4527.0;attach=52732;image)
cheers Andy if i can be of any help during your build just let me know
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I've just spent £40 at cross gates model shop, don't it add up ? I bet these builds knock on the door of a grand %%
Thanks again I'm not afraid to ask for help :-))
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Here we go. Plasticard virgin alert :police:
Dry fit pics in case I'm doing it wrong? do I need to abrade?
Looks like it will be difficult getting P38 up the back UNLESS I trim off the excess after fitting the deck supports?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-tXkN5tH/0/XL/IMG_0956-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-HsNvh3F/0/XL/IMG_0955-XL.jpg)
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When in doubt reading the instructions usually works {-)
Abrade all surfaces. Apply to both surfaces! So far done well with gauging the quantity, three pieces in place and barely used any. So initially it looks expensive but it goes a long way :-))
I should buy shares in stipple brushes! I bought 12 and I think I'll use them all
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-RG8KTD7/0/X2/IMG_0963-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-XLnndRX/0/X2/IMG_0962-X2.jpg)
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P38 is unlikelyto stick to Styrene but abraided like you have, it should hold the stuff you pug behind well enough letting the epoxy do the sticking.
Styrene is like any material, misuse it and it will let you down. Try and keep finger grease etc off the plastic when glueing as then the bond will be better and remember that thin styrene can soften and distort if using plastic weld or styrene glue, but it can be used to make curves and rings laminated around a former.
A scalpel will cut styrene up to around 1.5mm after which I reccomend a Stanley knife. Snap the thicker styrene carefully and dress the edges with a sanding block/ file, blade run along it until square. Annoyingly there seem to be two types of styrene possibly made by different companies. One has a tendency to break unevenly when snapped. This is a bluer colour white, while the yellower white styrene is easier to use but has wonky edges that have to be dressed before you can measure and cut accuratly.
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Thank you
I'm using sheet by MAQUETT and it is cutting easy peazy :-))
I'm really thankful for Brian's advice as it is far superior to the method MMM advise and less work in the long run.
The bulwarks are very wavy and the styrene with resin is helping strengthen and straighten them. I will use masking tape below the styrene to keep the P38 off where it's not wanted.
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-58mgH8W/0/X2/IMG_0964-X2.jpg)
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I've figured out that the best way of getting the correct deck support height (part of my original question)
is to put planks through the washports straight across port to starboard with a spacer (deck thickness) clamped under them
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Meanwhile I'm sat pondering 🤔 when will I have time to do my beautiful Rotterdam <:(
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-hhdTJHK/0/X2/IMG_0965-X2.jpg)
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End of day, Brandy time! Spanish of course :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-VCPsWXN/0/XL/IMG_0961-XL.jpg)
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Your making a grand job :-))
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I've figured out that the best way of getting the correct deck support height (part of my original question)
is to put planks through the washports straight across port to starboard with a spacer (deck thickness) clamped under them
This may have been said before? but I use an old car Tyre depth gauge, I measure down from the top of the bulwark plus the deck thickness to the bottom of the wash port and that gives me the depth for the deck beams.
Fred
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:-))
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Just the bow to do now
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-5fgN3qC/0/X2/IMG_0970-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-ndK8ZjK/0/X2/IMG_0971-X2.jpg)
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Another new toy :-))
Arrived today by DPD from Northern Ireland £114.99
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-7HRLh2M/0/X2/IMG_0966-X2.jpg)
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That's a very nice toy and well worth the money :-))
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Makes a world of difference when time is precious
Between scroll saw and drum sander these anchor ports took just over half hour :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-VKvcjBb/0/XL/IMG_0972-XL.jpg)
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I do like your new toy O0 ,you are doing a great job with her.
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I do like your new toy O0 ,you are doing a great job with her.
Thank you John that means a lot coming from you and Brian 8)
I've just one more piece of plasticard to fit
I've coated the anchor ports with z poxy finishing resin and I'll probably epoxy them in place.
Please jump in with any redirections {-)
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I fitted a piece across the bow first in an attempt to remove the distortion in the bulwark as it was moulded.
This seems to have worked with the aid of strategic clamping and some filing.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-HKXxSFR/0/XL/IMG_0973-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-WZVJf8d/0/XL/IMG_0974-XL.jpg)
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It's been a great weekend!
Learnt lots
Had a great morning with Kirklees club
Motorhome passed MOT :}
Plasticard nearly but not quite, Sod's law.
Bulwarks are quite firm now especially around the bow
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-WBrSRC9/0/XL/IMG_0975-XL.jpg)
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That work with the styrene has saved hours of sanding and filling good show :-))
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Thanks Ian
I know {-) imagine if I'd just blundered on using MMM build guide <:(
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I know there are people who hate plastic and prefer the fill and sand route. We are well versed in working with styrene and so can bend it to our will <*<
Styrene can be annoying and has a tendency to warp if being laminated or long parts are glued together. Filler has its own issues.
I think companies try to find a set of methods that are less terrifying for the potential buyer, and while they seem a bit old school or basic in some cases, they seem to result in a fair model.
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Bow is now suitably symmetrical
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-hnJ4Q5F/0/XL/IMG_0977-XL.jpg)
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Looking good Andy :-)) nice to see this coming along nicely,
I was thinking how to stop the water coming into my anchor ports as all I have is round porthole type things and a bit of water around/over the bow is going to fill it up, might have to make something similar if you don't mind me nicking your idea
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It's not my idea but you're welcome {-)
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I think the anchor holes in the Rotterdam are well above the water line
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I think the anchor holes in the Rotterdam are well above the water line
yeah they are but after seeing some videos of a Rotterdam in the water they get quite wet up front if a little choppy
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Coming on very nice :-))
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Coming on very nice :-))
Thanks for your support :-))
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As I said I'd like to build Brackengarth. FX-T looks good to but I do begrudge playing all that money for it as I work with fibreglass and know the cost of the material content !!
Yes I understand you've got to produce the plug then the mould etc but still seems a lot of money for a bit of fibreglass {:-{
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As I said I'd like to build Brackongarth (think that's how you spell it) FX-T looks good to but I do begrudge playing all that money for it as I work with fibreglass and know the cost of the material content !!
Yes I understand you've got to produce the plug then the mould etc but still seems a lot of money for a bit of fibreglass {:-{
Honestly if I made a plug I would want a decent profit. It's not just the material cost but the time using it to produce the end product and satisfy the tax man. To me the price is fine but the quality needs to be strict!
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Yes I agree all got to make a profit mybe I'm a bit behind the times my first boat was 16' long the hull and fibreglass ringdeck was £900 and I made a good living in that boat :-)) .Now it cost £450 for a model hull !! Saying that went in a model railway shop yesterday DEAR ME %% %% that's not a cheap hobby.
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Yes I agree all got to make a profit mybe I'm a bit behind the times my first boat was 16' long the hull and fibreglass ringdeck was £900 and I made a good living in that boat :-)) .Now it cost £450 for a model hull !! Saying that went in a model railway shop yesterday DEAR ME %% %% that's not a cheap hobby.
Brackengarth hull is a mere £124.10p
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I'd love to do a BIG tug but I realise I could not get it up and down the stairs. Also I'd like a few under 1 metre rather than something I can't lift, I'm no weakling but I'm near 60 and the next ten years I'm sure will go by in a blink
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Yes that's not so bad for the size.It was the FX-T hull I felt was a bit on the pricey side,and agree with yourself I like to see laminating done nicely not hard if you do it for a living {:-{ .Anyway really enjoying following your build.
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Yes that's not so bad for the size.It was the FX-T hull I felt was a bit on the pricey side,and agree with yourself I like to see laminating done nicely not hard if you do it for a living {:-{ .Anyway really enjoying following your build.
So am I thanks {-)
I just looked back to post 1 and its less than 3 weeks ago! I think it's moving along nicely :-)
I've just given notice at work that I'm having the rest of the week off to catch up with jobs at home so hopefully will get more done between chores.
I've just been looking at online pictures and the waterline is much higher than the MMM plans and runs right through the middle of the anchor ports. Also no pictures actually show the Portgarth with anchors fitted {-) . Presumably no neeeeeeeeed
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Ports x 2 Anchors nil
(http://photos.marinetraffic.com/ais/showphoto.aspx?photoid=1687607)
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Based on photos rather than MMM plan I'm proposing a line here.
Comments welcomed :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-7WZFvX5/0/XL/IMG_0979-XL.jpg)
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Is that a laser level I've spotted to do the water line ? :-)) Be careful going around the stern quarters.Reason being the laser will give you a level line but because the hull is diving away you'll have to raise the tape upwards to make the waterline look straight an optical illusion.
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It's exactly the same as it would be using a block and pen or pan flat water. Level is level.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-ScQp274/0/XL/IMG_0981-XL.jpg)
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See better now stern doesn't go in under to much.You try the level method on say a J class yacht and then tell me if it looks right O0 level isn't always level on a boat!! If it looks right it is right even if a level etc says different.
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I know what you're saying but the laser will do exactly the same
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-bjSjFxP/0/XL/IMG_0588-XL.jpg)
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Ok.Your line might be level but by eye it will be running down hill trust me I build boats for a living as I say a optical illusion
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Aye it's not called a waterline for nothing :-)
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%) %) %) Ok you win !!! Give up
Or you could try a chaps method I seen once he antifouled his boat no masking tape paint was up and down like the Himalayas was to match the wave action he told me {-)
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Gents........technology, & laser imagining are all fine
However we must not forget the age old Laws of Perspective in Dimensioning Returns
The laser referencing will provide a 100% line in terms of accuracy :-)), in our referenced 2D perspective, however if the model vessel is laying 2.4 degrees off axis to stdb by the stern when the line is shot ............well you can guess the answer when the hull meets the water
Derek
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Yes it's only used as a reference
I was asking for opinion of where I had put it
It will of course be marked when level in all directions on a flat surface with a block & pen
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Hi,
If you have a bath put everything in the hull (batteries,motors,electrics etc) throw some talcum powder onto the water surface and spread it put the hull in and let it settle there's you waterline. Don't forget its your boat not the rivet counters. Good luck.
Cheers, Pete.
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Thanks Pete
Brian's method is off to a good start but I opted for 15 minute poxy O0 chicken
Once set the excess styrene trims off ok to make the P38 easier to apply.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-2bpFxCh/0/L/IMG_0986-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-MsfQrsG/0/L/IMG_0987-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-Qj8Pmrm/0/L/IMG_0988-L.jpg)
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Today I've also had a tidy up and expanded my tubular wood stock storage 8)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-rd3FZgJ/0/L/IMG_0984-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-hhKdLHw/0/L/IMG_0985-L.jpg)
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Like the wood storage idea :-))
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Hi,
If you have a bath put everything in the hull (batteries,motors,electrics etc) throw some talcum powder onto the water surface and spread it put the hull in and let it settle there's you waterline. Don't forget its your boat not the rivet counters. Good luck.
Cheers, Pete.
Not quite what I had in mind Pete.
The norm is to establish where the water line should be by design and then ballast or fit it out so its either on the line or above. So long as the line isn't under water {-)
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Some P38 application in the morning as soon as the wife leaves O0
Then to model shop for their entire stock of glue brushes and some more luverly wood :-)
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Simply wouldnt even think of using P38 for fixings as it has NO structural strength at all....it is for filling dents....P40 is the proper stuff to use as it will bond properly to GRP...your choice
Dave
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It's not for fixing but for packing/filling. To understand where I'm at you'd have to go back some pages.
To fill the gap behind the styrene
@chipchase page 5
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Still would use p40
Dave
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I already have a tin of chemical metal for the strong stuff
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Wasted time and petrol going across Leeds to model shop
CLOSED Wednesday >>:-(
So hobby craft got my business and 5p per brush cheaper! So I bought 108
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-b3fH8bF/0/XL/IMG_0994-XL.jpg)
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Filler was quite easy and it's rick solid now.
I needed it to exude out of the washports
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-ShM6pkZ/0/XL/IMG_0993-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-3m7MzZs/0/L/IMG_0989-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-tZhbt3W/0/L/IMG_0990-L.jpg)
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Today I've looked ahead at the deck and access within.
It seems to me that the main deck panel is pitifully small, in fact I could not get to the motor mount screws or the couplings. So in conclusion I intend to ignore the plans and extend the panel forward as far as the deck winch. So the towing watsit will be on the access panel.
I've been out most of the day but made some progress. Tomorrow I'm making the foredeck so I can use it to mark the supports round the front as this curves in two directions.
Yes its a laser <*<
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-8FJ2L7F/0/XL/IMG_0995-XL.jpg)
Battery platform fitted.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-LMSpr5s/0/XL/IMG_1005-XL.jpg)
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Attention on deck! {-)
I'm happy it's as good as I'm going to get so tomorrow it will be satin lacquered. I can then fit the running gear :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-MGS4tSs/0/XL/IMG_1015-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-cfZwR2P/0/XL/IMG_1016-XL.jpg)
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Help needed. Where can I get those graduated numbers?
Picture by Chris Jones :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-DqTPRHH/0/O/Image%2007-04-2017%20at%2018.13.jpg)
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I think Becc do hull depth markings
john
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Thank you John {-) hull depth markings :-))
Who are becc? Please
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http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Becc-Hull-Depth-Markings-Metric-White-Scale-1-96-/322467165331?hash=item4b148a7493:g:Z7kAAOSwmmxW6uQa
What scale is the tug please
John
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1:32 :-))
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this person does them but out of stock
http://www.ebay.ie/itm/Imperial-Hull-Markings-in-Black-or-White-Various-Scales-/140547119305?var=&hash=item20b942d8c9:m:m3mFhHhv-o64YG6BWMwQuhQ
just scroll through and you will see them
john
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Thanks again, will watch for stock :-))
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it looks like Cornwall model boats have them in stock .
Your build is looking great .
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/becc_white_waterline_markings.html
John
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Thank you
All being well I should have a big leap forwards by Sunday night.
Unfortunately we can't speed up drying time :(( impatience gets negative results.
I'm ready to run a fine indelible line around the hull tomorrow and this will be lacquered over in the afternoon.
In later weeks when I come to do the upper hull the line will be painted over.
Not sure which colour to go with yet? The original light blue or the navy blue {:-{
I'm further miffed with the hull which has been a trial! Nothing port and starboard lines up at 90 degrees to the keel line
Washports and deck level change are well out >>:-(
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Have a day off on Sunday come to Balne Moor it's a tug towing & scale day, bring your Afon & have a tow.
John
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I'd love to John but I have other jobs to do too ready for Easter away <:(
Some time soon tho :-))
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Second thoughts! See you there 8)
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I was looking for some self adhesive felt for my stand and came across 3mm thick by 10mm wide on eBay from Germany . Not cheap but fits the bill they do up to 6mm thick too
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Hey John look after me ! Smally badly git with a white beard {-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-CrHL6px/0/X2/IMG_1017-X2.jpg)
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Great bunch at Balne Moor Andy you will be well looked after, Show Poll how to tow LOL
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Great bunch at Balne Moor Andy you will be well looked after, Show Poll how to tow LOL
I don't know if little Afon has ever towed but I know it has oodles of power
Need to tie off on something that won't come off {-) {-)
I do know that if I had ballasted the stern last Sunday it would likely have won the endurance test at Kirlees :(( Next year beware ! {-)
I could only drive at 63% of full speed due to bow going down
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Check this out! Similar to Portgarth
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8l0Oja_rm0s
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I think the Portgarth would be at the bottom if she tried that Andy LOL
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I think the Portgarth would be at the bottom if she tried that Andy LOL
Only if the hatches leak {-)
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I don't quite understand what the tug skipper is trying to achieve %)
1. my knowledge of tug handling is near ZERO
2. his tow line is about 130 degrees AFT & to the port
3. the tug thrust appears a FWD with a slight vessel beam turn to PORT??
Derek
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Assuming they are working as a pair he is steering the rear
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That worked :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-sDvn3JC/0/XL/IMG_1022-XL.jpg)
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Almost a perfect day, very shortly turn satin :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-b8Mzx2p/0/L/IMG_1023-L.jpg)
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Looking great Andy :-))
The more I see that hull the more I like it, it just looks the perfect tug :-)
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Thanks a Paul and my apologies for the other post, thread was closed so I could not reply :-X
Those prop shafts are huge {-)
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Thanks a Paul and my apologies for the other post, thread was closed so I could not reply :-X
No need mate that's fine, a phone call to "anonymous" :-X supplier and all sorted now anyway thank you :-))
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I'm trying to resist starting on her now %%
I think in the long run it'll all get a fine wire wool rub when the top half is painted and re lacquer over the whole
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-FqQ54m9/0/X2/IMG_1027-X2.jpg)
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Hmmmm not tried the fine wire wool trick, knowing me I'd strip the paint back off {-)
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A good day for remodelling my stand from temporary to permanent
A bit of reinforcement , sanding sealer and a fine rub. Just waiting for the felt strip to arrive .
I'm going to make a guard for the rear so I can't knock the Korts off
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-tBG2TQq/0/XL/IMG_1028-XL.jpg)
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You've made a nice job of that, you'll have to pop down and show me how to make a stand as that's a job I've been meaning to do but at a loss how to get the curve of the hull drawn onto the wood to cut out {:-{
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Cardboard is free :-) practice making templates of the hull shape front and rear then transfer onto wood.
I'll go take a photo of the one I've knocked up for the Rotty :-))
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Left over skirting board. Once you get something close to the shape you can fine tune it when the boats sat on it
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-VBsKFW6/0/XL/IMG_1029-XL.jpg)
I will eventually make a more ornate stand for presentation but this will do for sail days
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Great that perfect gives me a good idea what it should be like, I'll have a go at something this week it's much needed as the stand I got with it is nothing more than 10mmx10mm wood made into a rectangle with some felt stuck to it
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Ready for business, be in the bath tomorrow evening :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-TfnSDQ9/0/L/IMG_1032-L.jpg)
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Couldn't wait it's all going down O0
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-b6kTkJK/0/X3/IMG_1035-X3.jpg)
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Looking good Andy, you will have her finished in a fortnight the way your building. LOL
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Looks that way aye but we know there's an awe full lot to do above deck
No rush really and I've holidays too getting in the way {-)
Really the longer it takes the more bang for buck :-))
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Could well be in the bath tonight though O0
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Another of my inovative ideas. Yes paxolin again. Waste coins from drilling at work make great junction reinforcements combined with resin
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-jnw9m2b/0/L/IMG_1036-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-fPd3D9p/0/L/IMG_1037-L.jpg)
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A major consideration with super smooth shafts is they can only be installed from inside! they are 8mm but drop to 5mm for the props (6mm is also an option)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-sscsmWK/0/X2/IMG_1033-X2.jpg)
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Steve @ model boat bits made the 8mm to 8mm couplings specially at no extra charge :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-nSwzCX4/0/XL/IMG_1038-XL.jpg)
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That's excellent service from Steve :-)) Certainly a supplier I will be using more of in the future
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That is becoming a fine Tug hull Andy. Do you make many paxolin 'coins' at work?
Re boat stands, two suggestions I have read here and in Model Boats are:
1: Plasticine strip stuck onto the hull (wipe any grease from plasticine off hull before painting) then removed and used as template to draw around.
2: Flexiruler for similar results.
3: Profile gauge for similar results.
4: Using offcuts from relevant wooden frames as templates.
Ok, that's four suggestions %) But three of them are similar %%
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As many as I need in any size {-) and thank you :-))
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She's getting a bit tasty now but not getting her bum wet today
All electrics are functioning and bow thruster is smooth
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-9N8QjTv/0/X3/IMG_1039-X3.jpg)
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Fore deck fits but not the least bit symmetrical
I guess it's not so noticeable unless you flip it the other way :o
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-DS9HQMd/0/X2/IMG_1040-X2.jpg)
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Those two stringers form the length of the revised access hatch otherwise servicing the motors and couplings would be impossible
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-TsvwJ98/0/XL/IMG_1041-XL.jpg)
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Looking very nice, can I ask what material do you use to mount your electrics on?
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Paxolin
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Paxolin
Thank you, seen you mentioned that a few times in the thread I thought it was a glue %%
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I get it from work but I've found small quantity suppliers mine is 6mm thick tho
http://www.brimal.co.uk/5-0mm-paxolin-srbp-insulation-board-a4-size.html
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Very handy to have a source from work :-)) I've just bought a small quantity to start with from the link you gave, if you need any bearings at any time miniatures/thrust bearings etc... anything bearing wise I can help you with that I was a car mechanic, but for the last 12 years I'm now a bearing consultant
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:-))
So far I've used it for :-
The motor mounts
The battery mounts
The stern tubes bulkhead
The electrics platform
reinforcements
waterproof and works with superglue resins and PU adhesives, sand the surface first
needs no painting
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Sounds perfect, do you drill it and use nuts bolts? Or can you screw directly to it with a pilot hole?
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Drill & tap it. I superglue 4mm SS nuts between it and circuit boards purely as a spacer. I fix with M3 SS allen screws.
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Sounds good stuff I can't wait to give that a try
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The action electronics black boxes are fixed with double sided tape (from work) {-)
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I use this supplier for screws
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321113371242?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=510113469623&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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I've got screws, washers and nut's & bolts coming out my ears down here, I've probably got enough to last me a lifetime I used to buy loads from my 1/8th car racing days and it's cheaper to buy in baulk but I buy most of mine from a company called seascrew in Eastbourne he's an good friend of mine that I've known for many years
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Good to go apart from I'm missing two servo rod connections >>:-(
Running the bath now :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-pzwwspL/0/X3/IMG_1062-X3.jpg)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-H76VTgD/0/XL/IMG_1061-XL.jpg)
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Leffe blonde to toast her :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-fFJPf2R/0/L/IMG_1064-L.jpg)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-QHJppzM/0/L/IMG_1065-L.jpg)
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is that with 1 or 2 batteries in? still pretty high if just the one
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Both all in so loads of scope
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Skeg is just nicely deep enough to protect the Korts :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-mRkHLg8/0/L/IMG_1069-L.jpg)
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Found another servo/tiller arm thingy so did the link bar and set the unthreaded end in 5 min resin
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-8hvf7dg/0/L/IMG_1071-L.jpg)
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Very nice work! :-))
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Very nice work! :-))
Thank you Canada :-)
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Looking good Andy she sits nice in the wet stuff should be just right when all is on :-)) .
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Looking good Andy she sits nice in the wet stuff should be just right when all is on :-)) .
:-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-srzpmQz/0/XL/IMG_1068-XL.jpg)
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Aerial view
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-LVxhcGp/0/X3/IMG_1070-X3.jpg)
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:-)) Looking good
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Looking very neat and tidy, I do like the symmetry of everything keeps the weight perfectly even and that access is only something I could dream of on the Smit :-)) Some excellent modelling Andy can't wait to see the deck and superstructure
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Thanks Paul
First steps in making template/designing hatches.
I'm considering paxolin for the main hatch by doublig the deck thickness around the hatch then using paxolin for the hatch flange. This I can drill and tap and use countersunk stainless socket screws.
A hatch for each kort still to draw
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-rFRSBh5/0/X2/IMG_1073-X2.jpg)
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Are you going to use her for towing Andy ?
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Are you going to use her for towing Andy ?
Yes Brian and the towing lead will be on the hatch, the hatch stops just short of the winch position
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I was looking at your aerial view photo and was wondering if you are fitting any more deck supports
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I was looking at your aerial view photo and was wondering if you are fitting any more deck supports
Yes thanks for being observant :-))
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A number of ideas in mind before gluing the deck on
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-rmMt5jm/0/L/IMG_1074-L.jpg)
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Good :-)) I am really over the top when it comes to deck supports, i like your idea about using two layers for the deck hatches.
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Gluing the deck over the Kort linkages is a rather finite action %).......
So just tinking ok2...you could consider....
1. rotate the PORT L lever 90 degrees anticlockwise
2. rotate the STDB I lever 180 degrees anticlockwise
3. marginally shorten the length of the connection arms, so there is no binding between the servo control rod on full helm to STDB
This would then place the interconnection link arm in very close proximity to the rear end of the deck hatch and allow thumb & forefinger access to the interconnection link arm yokes an pins
Derek
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Thank you Derek but I did say each kort will have hatch :-))
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After speaking to Nick? I think it is at Balne Moor, I want to fit a winch motor.
It must be geared so the shaft cannot rotate unless powered.
It is then operated by a 3 position switch on the transmitter (I have 2 of those)
From the offerings here of MFA geared 12 volts what would be the best rpm? All replies appreciated
http://www.componentshop.co.uk/motors/dc-geared-motors (http://www.componentshop.co.uk/motors/dc-geared-motors)
I am thinking the 274rpm?
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Trial kort hatch shelf
I've ordered 3mm paxolin for the covers
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-6K5BXDJ/0/L/IMG_1075-L.jpg)
Knocked up a pedestal for the receiver that doubles as a cable guide
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-SK76DPz/0/XL/IMG_1079-XL.jpg)
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Just a tiny bit of filler to finish the rectification once the primer is hard.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-P4T6hmF/0/X2/IMG_0905-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-sPrWWGM/0/X2/IMG_0907-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-WW5t2f5/0/X2/IMG_0908-X2.jpg)
Sorry to go back but I've since seen another picture of a Portgarth stern and this is inherent in the mold so you either live with it or do as I did.
I'm happy with mine but would rather have not needed to do the extra in time and material
The offending defect would be on the port side here if not rectified.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-H76VTgD/0/L/IMG_1061-L.jpg)
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tis a shame about that hull you would have thought they could sort that on the mould so that is doesn't happen in future :(( but you are right to correct it now as if your like me you would be kicking yourself later for not doing it.
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tis a shame about that hull you would have thought they could sort that on the mould so that is doesn't happen in future :(( but you are right to correct it now as if your like me you would be kicking yourself later for not doing it.
That is corrected already :-))
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I knew that Andy :-)) just a shame they haven't corrected it on the mould
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I had a similar problem with acess to yhe korts on my eldergarth....my fix for this was to cut 2 circles above the korts and simply glued a fixing ring below deck and simply sealed them closed with double sided tape ...tge ultra thin stuff like selotape ....essy to remove and proven to be 100% watertight
Dave
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Thanks Dave
Similar but not circular
One on left is the shelf to be fitted under the 3mm deck skin
One on right is template for cutting 2 hatches 3mm thick which will be secured with 3mm countersunk stainless screws tapped into the shelf
It should look industrial like a deliberate access plate to the shottles
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-t7CnQkL/0/L/IMG_1080-L.jpg)
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Nothing so satisfying as getting paid while being creative
I think it's called productive non profit making {-)
Nearly tea time :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-vHVH7kq/0/L/IMG_1081-L.jpg)
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:-))
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Got my Paxolin sheets today and got cutting :-)) just got one thing to say about it it don't half stink cutting it but it is useful stuff
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You need to wear a dust mask AND if high speed cutting avoid creating fumes as they are listed as toxic.
I've been cutting it for years. A vacuum cleaner is a bonus
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Kort hatch mock up. Imagine deck all painted same colour/finish as below water line and hatches secured with unpainted stainless socket screws flush. Just enough space for Gog iron betwixt.
Deck 3mm ply
Kort hatches 3mm paxolin
Kort hatch shelves 6mm paxolin affixed with resin, drilled and tapped for hatch screws
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-v4qMQpn/0/X2/IMG_1086-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-P8RqZjh/0/X2/IMG_1087-X2.jpg)
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10mm wide by 3mm self adhesive felt arrived from ebay Germany. Felt is cheap but postage is not.
I'm very happy with the quality and would buy again :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-v7CMvW6/0/X2/IMG_1088-X2.jpg)
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You need to wear a dust mask AND if high speed cutting avoid creating fumes as they are listed as toxic.
I've been cutting it for years. A vacuum cleaner is a bonus
So I found out after breathing it in most of the afternoon, my lungs aren't too happy this evening hopefully that is mainly the man flu not the Paxolin
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So I found out after breathing it in most of the afternoon, my lungs aren't too happy this evening hopefully that is mainly the man flu not the Paxolin
I actually like the smell, for me its nostalgic
I cut strips with a TCT metal cutting circular saw. I cut profiles with a Jigsaw with wood cutting blade.
Good sharp files are a must.
Any medium abrasive will do for pre gluing
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Bakelite had gone out of production 10 years before I was born :embarrassed: it's quite a useful material which can be used for many things :-) but as for the smell!! nah it's worse than Old Spice after shave
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I've yet to experiment with paint on it O0
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I should think it would take paint fine as long as the surface is given a key or maybe using etching primer first :-))
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Well unfortunately I have to go on holiday so no boat building <:(
See you mid next week if I manage to fix wifeys Peugeot electric steering >>:-(
Off to Camperfest food and drink festival in Chester :-))
Enjoy your Easter
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Have a good one Andy :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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HI Andy you be lost next week no building. Have a good break see you after Easter.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Have a lovely Easter Andy, a break is much needed sometimes and a food and drink festival sounds perfect
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Thanks for your posts
Firstly I'm just reporting my findings as I go warts and all but not intending to belittle MMM. They provide a valuable service as a whole and many people have bought multiple models. :-))
I've decided not to proceed yet with the running gear as to tank test it would mean fitting the stern tube extensions. These are now much more difficult to remove and if you slip you risk knocking your Korts off !! there's no room for error.
The previous threaded design was IMHO better but more expensive to produce.
So I'll continue with the hull to the point that it is fully primed and laquered below the waterline then I can fit the Korts permanently
Looking back in review. Re the Eze extensions I have found by necessity that it is better to remove them if the need arises by using a good thick piece of rubber to protect the paint and a pair of pliers. It was a relief that this worked rather than MMM's method statement :-))
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Ok I'm away but it doesn't stop me thinking "boats" {-)
Other questions for the Guru's :-))
What filler is effective on styrene sheet? The bow bulwark needs padding out a bit once the deck is on so Ideally I want something that will do from 5mm max down to a feather edge.
What is the best type of primer for styrene
Most suitable product to stick the bulwark ribs? styrene
/wood and can I glue to sanded sanding sealer? I would like to fully fill all deck grain before fixing ribs.
Alternatively would I be better using sanded finishing resin and glue to that?
Thank you kindly
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HI Tc33cno no with out a doubt Halfords car acrylic primers for styrene and glass fibre hulls. primers come in the following red, grey, white, they can have enamels or acrylic paints applied over them. Not sure about the fillers At 5 mm deep. hope this helps.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Thanks for the call Stan :-))
Anyone got advice to add please do
Weather in Chester is pants and worse tomorrow so coming home early yay! Boat building is better 8)
This is my ship on the road
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Other/Miscellaneous/i-rfKKc9t/0/L/IMG_1090-L.jpg)
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Home now, sod the weather.
I've fitted some deck strengtheners at the rear. The deck has to start here and work towards the bow.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-RHs9jWw/0/X2/IMG_1092-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-DWsww59/0/X2/IMG_1093-X2.jpg)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-B4xQC34/0/XL/IMG_1095-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-tBP4tF8/0/XL/IMG_1097-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-h73kcXf/0/XL/IMG_1096-XL.jpg)
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That went exactly to plan and I'm over the moon with the result so far :D
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-68xzfrn/0/X2/IMG_1098-X2.jpg)
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Matted off and ready in my spray booth {-) er cardboard box :((
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-nFXCDGQ/0/XL/IMG_1099-XL.jpg)
Excellent result just needs satin coat over OR perhaps matt on the deck? . I'm wondering if I could/should do the whole deck in Paxolin {:-{
Maybe something to try when I build that Maltby :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-pK2mvDG/0/XL/IMG_1100-XL.jpg)
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Deck rope locker (yet another hole in the deck) Plan shows one ports side between my Kort hatches and main hatch. Is it worth it do I need it?
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Almost ready for first deck section
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-JhMhDBD/0/X2/IMG_1101-X2.jpg)
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Deck rope locker (yet another hole in the deck) Plan shows one ports side between my Kort hatches and main hatch. Is it worth it do I need it?
Some modellers use it as a hideyhole for switches.
Ned
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I never thought of that :-))
However I'd rather switch it above the batteries under the superstructure
I think any hatch that isn't screwed down and sealed it bound to let water in
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At this stage I considered using 3mm paxolin for the main hatch too but I'm sticking to my plan.
Here I think you can see my intention. The deck around the hatch will be doubled up. I thought it was 3mm ply (according to MMM) but it is 1/8th as two are more than 6mm.
So here the shelf will be wider and I'll be using M4 countersunk SS 8 off. Only need access for maintenance{oiling} or repairs
The difference in thickness will be made up with a self adhesive foam strip that will act as a seal too.
The deck is still dry fitted while I am sealing and sanding the ply, first coat on and sanded here.
Also you might have noticed I've omitted the motor connectors as they will not be accessible with decks on.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-8VhXTzN/0/X3/IMG_1102-X3.jpg)
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Midship support added from keel to deck
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-CdSVJgN/0/XL/IMG_1105-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-g9PGNbL/0/XL/IMG_1106-XL.jpg)
Deck ready to go on almost BUT what should I fix it with????????? I'm thinking resin again with a longer setting time Brian???
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-qWVfwtb/0/X2/IMG_1108-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-snmM9Bx/0/X2/IMG_1107-X2.jpg)
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Hmm deck fixing. My last two builds I have used Gorilla glue. Its an epoxy foaming glue, wet one side of join, apply glue to the other and hold/clamp in place while set. It is totally waterproof when set. You just have to be careful how you apply it, as it is a foaming glue it does bubble out of the join edges if too much is used meaning cleanup work has to be done. But I've found if you let it semi set, then this can be peeled off, if it sets completely it can be a b***h.
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Thank you Brian. I think its going to be a little messy whatever :(( I think I'm going to stick with (no pun intended) Z poxy as so far the 5 & 15 minute mixes have been spot on. The 30 min should be enough as my rear deck is in two halves.
The little problem I have is to align the first piece I have to fit even if loosely the Kort hatches. In hind sight I'd have been wiser to drill and tap the shelves later . Live n learn {-)
I'm just applying chemical metal below the bulwarks this morning while the house is empty. Influenced by Stavros thanks Dave
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Thought I may as well crack on in tandem with the superstructure.
I've concluded that I did not get anywhere near enough 1/8th ply with this kit.
With all the paxolin I've used in its place you'd think I'd have loads spare, Battery mounts/ Motor mounts/Hatches and shelves. Perhaps I didn't receive the correct amount? it says 5ft but I only recall two 2ft sheets
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-2p8vjwQ/0/XL/IMG_1109-XL.jpg)
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I remembered Leeds model shop is closed today so that saved me another embarrassment
Tomorrow then from notes on my iPhone {-) have I forgot owt?
Model shop
30 min resin
1/8th plywood sheet
Long servo arm
Admiral putty white
Zap a gap
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Revision
Model shop
30 min resin
1/8th plywood sheet
Long servo arm
Admiral putty white
Zap a gap
Styrene sheet 2mm? For bulwark frames/ribs watsits
Humbrol paints for deck fittings
I need the longer servo arm because I've set the servo to 150% travel but it's now limited mechanically
A longer arm will give full travel and crank back the percentage
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I'm satisfied with MMM's winches. As it says some fettling needed but results are very good for the money :-))
I needed many more washers than the 2 supplied to take up the slack though.
Can anyone give me a specific colour of the dark blue used on sveitzer ? spelling
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-MbdPp7h/0/XL/IMG_1112-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-Vc7GHRF/0/XL/IMG_1111-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-8XZBM9s/0/XL/IMG_1113-XL.jpg)
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On the other hand these tie me ups for the bow are pitifully undersized >>:-( about half the size they should be looking at the pictures
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-WbkxwjW/0/XL/IMG_1114-XL.jpg)
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Thought I'd never get there but finally on with the foredeck. Going to be pretty solid I think {-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-K3cGQf7/0/X3/IMG_1118-X3.jpg)
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They need to be solid Andy :-)) especially as your planning to do some towing, I normally use 9mm ply for the decks and bolt the winches on.
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I'm going to put a few more stringers over the motors where the winch goes and the lead will be fixed on the 6mm paxolin hatch :-))
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Andy, you've seen my Ormesby Cross.
It is painted with Halfords rattle cans. The blue is Renault Royal blue.
I think it looks right. The cream is subject to more debate.
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Thanks for that :-))
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Got the last two tins {-) apparently they're bringing out a new range next week onwards so not been restocking recently
The colour band on the can lids is very inaccurate but as you get 1 in four tins free I bought a Rover Arun white to test out.
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Taken from another thread.
Is this as hard as it looks %)
Where can I get brass strip that narrow for the ladder fall protection?
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=43033.0;attach=147196;image)
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Found 1/8th wide brass strip at MACC Model Engineering Ltd
BTW the MMM ladder for the mast is rubbish so I'll be looking for something much better quality. Anyone help??
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Macc is near me
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Absolutely amazing build.
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beautifull
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Thank you both :-)) warms my cockles :-)
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Well full of trepidation and a couple of strong lagers I decided to dive in with gluing the foredeck rather than risk the rear deck without experience.
It has gone well and the resin did go off in 30 mins :-))
I previously added more supports and reinforcement for the lead.
Here you can see how the resin applied to both surfaces has filled the gaps nicely
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-qW5dkd6/0/XL/IMG_1121-XL.jpg)
Knowing this is a runny mess I exercised damage limitation with kitchen roll beneath. Some of this has stuck but out of sight.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-H7nQ6cT/0/XL/IMG_1129-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-BJFkkXS/0/XL/IMG_1130-XL.jpg/img][imghttps://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-qkJzt7W/0/XL/IMG_1127-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-hmZHBMf/0/XL/IMG_1128-XL.jpg)
The ply had 3 coats of sanding sealer before the grain was filled.
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Holy Cow. Seeing all that gear makes my wallet pucker up. This is going to be expensive.
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Between the model shop and inter web I've spent another 200 bucks today {-)
Cant put a price on your hobby! its all about satisfaction and pride :-))
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amen brother. just new to boats. I'm trying to get my first one in the water with what makes sense without paying large coin. Only bell and whistle I want is a bow thruster.
This thread is an amazing help
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amen brother. just new to boats. I'm trying to get my first one in the water with what makes sense without paying large coin. Only bell and whistle I want is a bow thruster.
This thread is an amazing help
Believe it or not I'm new too (January) I've not build a model since I was 14 early 70's
I'm glad its a help as that is the intention as well as me asking for help but unfortunately not all questions get a response :((
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baha. I'm 46, so we shall be merry masters and great adventures together!
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baha. I'm 46, so we shall be merry masters and great adventures together!
I remember 46 like it was yesterday <:(
Hopefully my Portgarth will be complete by my 60th
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this hobby and these forums helps with that.
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This is my claim to fame as the only complete Portgarth build on the internet eventually 8) {-)
I do need help to make it a quality representation so I hope more members chip in when advice is required :-))
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Finally an easy 2 min job {-) superglue :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-hm9qNFR/0/XL/IMG_1131-XL.jpg)
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A taste of things to come
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-FbRgxkQ/0/X2/IMG_1132-X2.jpg)
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Wicked.
Gigantic!
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Wicked.
Gigantic!
I tank/bath tested it again today and it still needs considerable ballast to get it near the plimsole line.
I might have to work out to lift it {-)
She's only 37.5" or 950mm so I'm glad I didn't choose a bigger model
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-pG7sc4T/0/X2/IMG_1133-X2.jpg)
Rotterdam waits patiently, also 950mm but 1:75
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-BfS5H5c/0/X2/IMG_1134-X2.jpg)
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<:( ⬅Rotterdam
What is the current one?
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<:( ⬅Rotterdam
What is the current one?
The clue is in the topic title {-)
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Andy, you intend to position your switch under the superstructure you could find it a problem at Balne Moor, I know I've been there :embarrassed: .
If you think about the moorings, as shown in your photo, how will you reach over to lift the superstructure to switch off?
NetleyNed earlier suggested a switch under a hatch which is what lots of people do. I just have a switch close to the winch on the deck. I know you were worried about water leakage, but I've not found it a problem.
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Ok thanks
Perhaps I'll fit a relay and a concealed push button :-))
Or perhaps keep that as a main isolator and fit a switch in the receiver supply.
I could make the rear deck engine hatch removable with a coaming inside 8)
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Yes, any of those will work :-)) .
Those of us with Hernia and Double Hernia class boats have to think of strategies so as not to have to lift them out of the water too often %% .
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Yes, any of those will work :-)) .
Those of us with Hernia and Double Hernia class boats have to think of strategies so as not to have to lift them out of the water too often %% .
Think mines a squeaky fart {-)
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Lmbo
Think mines a squeaky fart {-)
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Nice weekend away but managed a bit this afternoon.
Battery access is plenty adequate :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-jVb5v46/0/X2/IMG_1142-X2.jpg)
I've been making sections up to dry fit against each other. Nothing glued down yet bar the fore deck.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-2cgJNp8/0/X2/IMG_1143-X2.jpg)
Pictures should be useful for other builders as it's often difficult to envisage from just the templates & plan. Quite slow going with the superstructure as every piece needs to be checked against every other piece it will contact.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-M5fKwDh/0/X2/IMG_1144-X2.jpg)
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lookin Purdy. good job
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Looking good Andy, i all ways fit my switch,s on the deck under the hatch makes life easier O0 .
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Yes I agree now and have ordered a receiver switch
This is why I've held off gluing the deck in place :-)) The engine hatch is just about big enough
Thanks
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Sticking the deck on is a big step especially on small models where chunky bloke hands are too big to get in a fix things that get loose or break because pre assembly testing was not rigourous enough.
She's looking good Andy.
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Thanks Ian
Back at work today so made a piece of paxolin for the main hatch.
Presents arrived from the postman
A quality oil can for U know what
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-KgqPX5d/0/19a27d34/X2/IMG_1145-X2.jpg)
The brass flat bar for the mast :-)) perfick
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-6rZ5tjJ/0/0e88da63/X2/IMG_1147-X2.jpg)
A couple of geared motors 15:1 & 30:1 to experiment with a winch
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-SwCvtCD/0/1cf819a7/X2/IMG_1146-X2.jpg)
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Unfortunately I have been sent 1.5-3.0 volt motors which is not what I ordered {:-{
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6mm paxo didn't need much fettling :-)
I'll leave drilling and tapping until after the decks glued down
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-M9DJpdL/0/18b66bad/X2/IMG_1149-X2.jpg)
4mms screws probably 8 off for main hatch
3's for kort hatches
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-Njf4cfg/0/0f092cea/L/image-L.jpg)
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By May I'm looking forwards to gluing the decks and clearing out the washports again BUT
It keeps striking me that MMM have marked the main deck ports as two long ones whilst the real vessel has a short a long and a short.
This bothers me but what do you think?
Actual
http://www.marinetraffic.com/en/photos/of/ships/shipid:190379/#forward (http://www.marinetraffic.com/en/photos/of/ships/shipid:190379/#forward)
(http://photos.marinetraffic.com/ais/showphoto.aspx?photoid=2450466)
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Do as the real boat because that is what your building a scale model of.
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Do as the real boat because that is what your building a scale model of.
Exactly how I feel so why would MMM stray from that blatantly? I cannot see a reason for it.
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We need MORE pictures like this. I may have to pay a visit and take some proper photos.
I'm going to be asking "how do I reproduce those securing bands around the fender" ??????? %)
(http://photos.marinetraffic.com/ais/showphoto.aspx?photoid=1942997)
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Exactly how I feel so why would MMM stray from that blatantly? I cannot see a reason for it.
It is quite possible that the drawings the model was originally made from was the builders original design general arrangement. which gets altered as the vessel is built,
Things get altered all the time when ships are being built, so the modeller if wanting an Exact copy of the real thing needs to do at least some research into the subject.you will probably find that the general arrangement which must be displayed aboard has several differences to the actuall ship.
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Good answer thanks :-))
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Andy, I'm not sure what design you are planning for your winch, but I think you will need a much lower gearing than those motors you have.
My winch (admittedly untested on a new boat) has a gearing of 3000/1 which will give a turn speed of about 5 turns per minute. Lower gearing will tend to spool out when under tension.
Also remember if you use it for competition tug towing you are only allowed to spool in or out to adjust your line length, not to actually winch the vessel.
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Depending on the size of your drum 5 turns per minute might only take out 1" of slack which is far too slow
I think it really needs to be able to take up at least a foot in minute or less.
Will a 360 degree rotation servo run either way? I wonder ??
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I wish MMM wouldn't cast these peg holes in each half as both fittings bow and maindeck have one side well off centre :((
I'm sure it was intended to help but it's not if it's not in the middle and would be much easier to drill it after assembly
The one on the right as pictured here
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-j6FRRCC/0/4454cfd9/XL/IMG_1150-XL.jpg)
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Depending on the size of your drum 5 turns per minute might only take out 1" of slack which is far too slow
I think it really needs to be able to take up at least a foot in minute or less.
That's why I have a 7'' drum circumference.
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That's why I have a 7'' drum circumference.
{-) I don't think I have room for that
I'm at the experimentation stage and don't even have a drum yet {:-{
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Some very sound advice and no nonsense comment there Butts :-))...obviously from a mature vintage ok2....... Derek
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Cheers Derek. You're right of course about the "mature vintage" :} .
Andy, my drum is only 6.5cm in diameter which is not that large and the hull it is in is a 1/25 scale Damen Stan 2208 - so slightly smaller than a Portgarth
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Pictures would be helpful :-))
I'm limited as to where I can put it in the hold
Most likely on the underside of the main hatch
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Depending on the size of your drum 5 turns per minute might only take out 1" of slack which is far too slow
I think it really needs to be able to take up at least a foot in minute or less.
Will a 360 degree rotation servo run either way? I wonder ??
Hi Andy.
Slow on the winching in & out, If to fast you get it balled up round the drum , would not like to say I told you so, been there & done it.
John Balne Moor mbc
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Thank you :-))
Parts materials pictures sketches all welcome pleez %%
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There is an article in this month's Model Boats by a chap (Francis Macnaughton) who uses 'Continuous roatation servos' as combination ESC/Drive motor for small model boats.
While the ones he uses are not for heavy loads, you may find there are bigger ones with more poke available. They are used for computer controlled robots and if available, a larger one might do for your winch and allow variable winding speeds:O)
The link for servos is www.rapidonline.com
Otherwise, searching for 'Continuous roatation servos' may give you more options.
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Thanks Ian. I've already bought a continuous one for trials when I have time :-))
More pictures, we like pictures don't we children :}
I've managed to re drill the Lead and tap it 6mm for long brass bolts. Unfortunately on assembly I found the holes for the crossbar are too low for this set up so had to fill them in and re drill higher <*<
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-fTfXLX6/0/aff0103f/XL/IMG_1152-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-7hT882d/0/ecbdd017/XL/IMG_1153-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-MqgdtCd/0/b2456481/XL/IMG_1155-XL.jpg)
So I now have a nice handle for removing the hatch 8)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-DpBnz7G/0/13f6d5f9/XL/IMG_1156-XL.jpg)
Thanks again for the switch advice. This is now in place and the engine access hatch will be sited over it :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-CKqDL8C/0/c1142059/XL/IMG_1154-XL.jpg)
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I'd like to forgo a bit of building time this weekend and visit Balne moor for a plunge 8) What would be the best day considering it's bank holiday weekend?
Kirklees will be CLOSED due to tour de Yorkshire
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Interesting build you've got there T33cno.
I thought I'd send you photo's of my Portgarth winch please excuse the dust??? The winch was fabricated out of thick wall brass tube and other sections of brass and silver/soft soldered together and like yours its bolted through the deck. I've also attached a few others of my model which was built back in 2002 and uses Graupner schottle drives, there's a few more photo's of it on the modeltugforum site if your interstered.
The great thing with building this model was the full size vessel is based here in Bristol which is a darn sight a lot closer than the present tug I'm building at present MIDDLESBROUGH.
Keep the good work up and thanks for sharing your build with us.
Kevin
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Here's two more of my Portgarth model taken down at a very cold Roath Park last March.
Kevin
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Thank you ever so much! you're straight on my buddy list {-) :-))
This is the kind of thing I was hoping for! picture sharing and awesome ones too 8)
I don't think I can replicate that but appreciate it.
I can see the bow fenders are attached using cable ties :-)) I had this in mind but now I see it is doable :-)
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Yeah I used plasticard strip and they just split and not with use or hitting against as there under no real tension.
Kevin
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Do your mast lights all work? Your mast is closer to reality than the MMM plans so I'd imagine wiring yours would be exceptionally difficult?
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I've sent you a PM T33cno
Kevin
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Here's a photo I forgot I had of the stern view of my Portgarth model I hope it's of interest.
Kevin
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The stern and bow fenders are secured with chains covered with rubber sleeve to protect the ship she is pushing
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I used 18mm diameter rubber round section and grooved it to take the straps to secure it back and once cut to length I used Gripfill (adhesive) to stick it back to the model the cable ties are just looks they don't take no tension in anyway.
Kevin
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I'd like to forgo a bit of building time this weekend and visit Balne moor for a plunge 8) What would be the best day considering it's bank holiday weekend?
I'm not sure who might be there at the weekend. I've other commitments on Sunday and Monday but will probably be there late morning/early afternoon on Saturday.
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Photo of my winch drum as requested.
No, I did not make it. I have a talented nephew with an engineering workshop :-))
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Thanks and thanks :-))
That's a nice drum :-)
I may have to resort to scrap heap challenge :((
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Having day dreamed at work I have an image of a paxolin winding drum
I can get the right shaft diameter by using a number of K&S precision brass tubes inside each other then tapped for a grub screw O0
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Here's a photo I forgot I had of the stern view of my Portgarth model I hope it's of interest.
Kevin
Superb detail very much appreciated
See you at Donny :-))
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Bit more at work O0
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-pfW5RNg/0/953ce0d4/XL/IMG_1157-XL.jpg)
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Drum core sorted :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-5dt6Rc3/0/06a388ae/XL/IMG_1158-XL.jpg)
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Just home and straight into it {-)
Yes the continuous rotation servo runs in both directions :-)) So I'm sure I can cobble something together
Rotation speed is excellent :-))
Edit. Connected to elevator on receiver gives right stick up and down in and out with auto off
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-pSn3LhD/0/9b84b374/X2/IMG_1160-X2.jpg)
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https://www.facebook.com/Techno100/videos/10155160929847593/
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https://www.facebook.com/Techno100/videos/10155161127727593/ (https://www.facebook.com/Techno100/videos/10155161127727593/)
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Works rather well :-))
I'll mount it between the drive motors so the line goes up a brass tube above deck enough to avoid water ingress and then over the top of the model drum winch.
Just a reminder for readers the main hatch will be battened down with eight ss countersunk M4 Allen screws. So the tow hook if used will be secure :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-g7w6P8K/0/c93ad294/X2/IMG_1165-X2.jpg)
Something like
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-bw4JVKN/0/85a3bb11/X2/IMG_1166-X2.jpg)
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Tomorrow when the boss ain't looking I'm going to try that Renault royal blue :-)) thank you
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-j5mVSQj/0/52506518/XL/IMG_1167-XL.jpg)
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Back to the drawing board <:( I can turn the servo with the drum on it {:-{ what a shame {-)
Guess what the next move is @Butts ? {-) 3000:1 8)
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At least you tried and we all learnt the limits of continuous servos :-))
That Paxolin is versatile stuff Andy!
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At least you tried and we all learnt the limits of continuous servos :-))
That Paxolin is versatile stuff Andy!
Certainly if you didn't know you do know {-)
It'll go in the bits drawer but the drum I can still use :-))
Might have to get a BIGGER drawer tho
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Motor purchased ebay £20 :-))
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Love the colour, be great with satin lacquer :-)) thank you Mike
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-HWW4QXF/0/9b43f908/L/IMG_1168-L.jpg)
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I'm not sure who might be there at the weekend. I've other commitments on Sunday and Monday but will probably be there late morning/early afternoon on Saturday.
Saturday lunch ish sounds good to me for a tow. You never know M.P.B.A. may call in. :-))
John
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I usually work 4 days 37.5 hrs but I'm working tomorrow at short notice which is worth 14 hrs in the pocket so can't refuse. So unfortunately I'll not be up for Saturday but will be gluing the first part of the main deck on. Have fun
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I usually work 4 days 37.5 hrs but I'm working tomorrow at short notice which is worth 14 hrs in the pocket so can't refuse. So unfortunately I'll not be up for Saturday but will be gluing the first part of the main deck on. Have fun
Hi Andy. How's that work are you on nights?
John
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Days but my boat's not ready for Saturday as I can't do anything on it tomorrow.
If the 3000:1 motor turns up I hope to sort it and mount it so all the deck can go on.
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Whilst on that theme what do we use for tow line? and I imagine 3 metres would cover all circumstances?? with most of it on the drum.
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Brick layers line is good. What about the Afon Alaw you have for Saturday?
John
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Brick layers line is good. What about the Afon Alaw you have for Saturday?
John
Thanks John
The Afon isn't built to tow as it has too much deck furniture. When my Portgarth is finished I may dismantle the whole caboodle and build it my way as I already acquired plans etc. :-))
EDIT actually it would be more sensible to sell it on and buy a hull
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:-))
(https://cdn.manomano.fr/m600-series-masons-lines-285ft-L-709759-2186531_1.jpg)
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yes that is fine
John
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yes that is fine
John
£7.34 delivered for 85 metres, should last a while {-)
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Following on from our telephone conversation earlier Andy please find attached photo's that are to hand of my Portgarth model as I'm still waiting for the sun to come out here in Bristol for another photo session, I'll see if there's anything else that be handy for your build and bring it up to Doncaster.
Regards
Kevin
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Yup thanks for the call :-))
How do I do those window frames on the wheelhouse ?
Just one of many questions to come 8)
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Cut all the panels and offer them in position and once your happy with the shape of the wheelhouse it's then you mark the cut-outs for the windows as then the windows are parallel with the joint of the wheelhouse, I hope that makes sense???
Regards
Kevin
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Yes I understand that Kevin but I meant the window frames? Is it styrene or something etc
Or should I say surrounds?
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The way I done mine was to cut the perspex to the shape of the cut-out then fix plasti-card to the outside edge in doing this you're forming a rebate and then your glue it into position and this way you've got a nice joint on the outside edge.
Regards
Kevin
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The way I done mine was to cut the perspex to the shape of the cut-out then fix plasti-card to the outside edge in doing this you're forming a rebate and then your glue it into position and this way you've got a nice joint on the outside edge.
Regards
Kevin
8)
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Next up for general circulation!
Resin brushes. The ones from hobby craft are cheap but as reviewers say the bristles come out in use >>:-(
I tracked down ones by "Great planes" as sold at Leeds Model shop but LMS want 25p each and would only drop to £33 per box of 144 which I thought was a miserly discount.
I just bought the same by mail order for £27 delivered :-))
No personal connection I swear!! just sharing FYI
https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/279331/?gclid=Cj0KEQjw0IvIBRDF0Yzq4qGE4IwBEiQATMQlMdoDcbGu7kroK265yvgKVgLhRujvPcin0MF_s1A1tmQaAsef8P8HAQ
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Never going to match the authenticity of Kevin's but Will do for now and as it is easily replaced I have the option in future
This could be a finished section in very little time with a Matt lacquer hatch satin lacquer steel and a nice canary yellow D area finished with the SS socket screws :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-NtWR5m3/0/5c5b9f56/X3/IMG_1182-X3.jpg)
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Following on from our telephone conversation earlier Andy please find attached photo's that are to hand of my Portgarth model as I'm still waiting for the sun to come out here in Bristol for another photo session, I'll see if there's anything else that be handy for your build and bring it up to Doncaster.
Regards
Kevin
She looks good on the water Kevin :-))
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Never going to match the authenticity of Kevin's but Will do for now and as it is easily replaced I have the option in future
This could be a finished section in very little time with a Matt lacquer hatch satin lacquer steel and a nice canary yellow D area finished with the SS socket screws :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-NtWR5m3/0/5c5b9f56/X3/IMG_1182-X3.jpg)
She is coming along Andy you will have her at Balne Moor before long, and show poll how its done LOL
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She is coming along Andy you will have her at Balne Moor before long, and show poll how its done LOL
I doubt that but perhaps John will tutor me :-))
Just now the decks depend on this winch motor arriving tomorrow. I need to make it function and fit it in a manner that I can remove it for service if required. Much paxolin involved {-) .
I'm looking forwards to remodelling the washports and starting on the ribs
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This will be a testing process :o
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth/i-s3gWhkW/0/56b1ade3/L/IMG_1184-L.jpg)
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Here we go Mike! 5rpm
https://www.facebook.com/Techno100/videos/10155168983877593/ (https://www.facebook.com/Techno100/videos/10155168983877593/)
Literally just fits with 1mm clearance and I can remove with just two socket screws on the main hatch shelf :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-pzPZxp6/0/704755d1/X3/IMG_1185-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-Vgd5BfX/0/ab490523/X3/IMG_1186-X3.jpg)
FYI
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-F4RzkgK/0/e90fdd14/X3/IMG_1187-X3.jpg)
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That has been quite a tense hour
The worry being that I made the mistake of drilling and tapping the Kort hatches earlier and if I didn't position the deck spot on I'd have a serious misalignment. However it has gone well with all surplus resin scraped off and hatches fit perfect. I've also produced a stencil to spray the yellow danger area.
I've been painstaking in ensuring that no edges were missed with resin as I don't want any water penetration between the ply and the paxolin.
Please offer me suggestions for the Gog as the MMM one isn't suitable for a working model
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-2Qb8sNH/0/f6e840b9/X3/IMG_1189-X3.jpg)
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That's my main hatch now awesomised {-) absolutely delighted and when the sealing gasket is fitted it will be a perfect flush finish.
Now I can treat the hatch as a separate unit and paint finish it :-)
Note to self . Remember the battery screwdriver!!
Edit I think I'll paint the crew heads too but leave the hex socket unpainted
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-s398qQs/0/6f17d982/X3/IMG_1190-X3.jpg)
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Looking good Andy. The winch motor though a touch noisey looks like it does exactly what you wanted it to do.
What is a Gog?
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Thanks Ian
It will wear in and be less noisy I believe but it sounds louder because the sound is resonating through the bench. I'm not sure it's what I want but if it's good enough for Mike (Butts) :-))
EDIT however Mike's is a larger circumference drum but I could not have accommodated that anyway so it will have to do. Quite fortunate really that the size I made happened to JUST fit.
The gog is the iron hoop at the rear of the deck that tethers the tow line to prevent it going too far to port of starboard. I stand to be corrected tho {-)
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Further more I calculate my drum will wind 625mm per minute which I guess will do?I'm not sure how far Butts has gotten with his winch but this is what I'm doing.
This is my rope guide hole and I've countersunk it on the underside
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-R3Dcvwc/0/2bd010b8/XL/IMG_1191-XL.jpg)
Here it adds strength as a bonus and the rope exits and is directed over the dummy deck winch and off to la derriere . I'm going to fit a guide tube above deck so deck wash don't go down there.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-qH4GjMN/0/1a18702e/XL/IMG_1193-XL.jpg)
Component shop must love me {-) and I'm not finished
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-c3sVZ8k/0/d474703c/XL/IMG_1192-XL.jpg)
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My chosen deck & roof finish.
Left Halfrauds red primer and right with matt lacquer
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-jd8kB8q/0/0dc93cbb/L/IMG_1194-L.jpg)
Subtle Satin on Renault royal blue. Looks rather lighter here than to the naked eye
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-BtXPjb2/0/ce21041f/XL/IMG_1195-XL.jpg)
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Without trying I've managed to not make it look perfect {-) but I'm happy with it :-)) and when it's gone completely matt it will do me :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-nM4NTgL/0/0dcabfe9/X2/IMG_1196-X2.jpg)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-83Zzn8g/0/3a8be648/XL/IMG_1197-XL.jpg)
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Sometimes it pays to do your own testing rather than get incorrect advice.
A question was asked about sanding sealer recently and to prove a point I've treated a piece of ply here and primed it without issue or uneccesary expense
Also I have glued two pieces of ply to the sanding sealer with
A superglue
B aliphatic resin
Both feel solid but tomorrow I'll do a destruction test to see which gives with both
Either the glue or the wood
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-R6Z6phB/0/2c935363/X3/IMG_1200-X3.jpg)
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Tow line exit tube fitted.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-DHW3TPN/0/5e5c9748/L/IMG_1203-L.jpg)
Another dry fit test of sections
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-GGRHCt3/0/73f970ba/X3/IMG_1204-X3.jpg)
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I do like to see a good bit of birch ply O0 The tube should restrict all but the most active prop wash getting into your motor bay. As long as none of your electronic equipment is on the bottom of the hull then I cannot see any risk from water ingress at this point.
Looking good:O)
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I think she can easily take 2 litres of water before anything is jeopardised :-))
I'm partial to some birch myself {-)
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Sometimes it pays to do your own testing rather than get incorrect advice.
A question was asked about sanding sealer recently and to prove a point I've treated a piece of ply here and primed it without issue or uneccesary expense
Also I have glued two pieces of ply to the sanding sealer with
A superglue
B aliphatic resin
Both feel solid but tomorrow I'll do a destruction test to see which gives with both
Either the glue or the wood
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-R6Z6phB/0/2c935363/X3/IMG_1200-X3.jpg)
Update
Aliphatic is a complete fail as it cannot penetrate sanding sealer. So bare wood only!
So far the Zap a Gap medium CA is holding tight
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Deck support beefed up
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-qsfXBZw/0/64445376/X2/IMG_1205-X2.jpg)
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A question was asked about sanding sealer recently and to prove a point I've treated a piece of ply here and primed it without issue or uneccesary expense
Hi.
That was my question in the beginners section regarding sealer and glue.
Thanks for carrying out that test, I now feel much happier about masking the areas to be glued, in my case it's the underside of the ply sub-deck where it will be glued to the deck beams of my Boston Typhoon build.
Les
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A question was asked about sanding sealer recently and to prove a point I've treated a piece of ply here and primed it without issue or uneccesary expense
Hi.
That was my question in the beginners section regarding sealer and glue.
Thanks for carrying out that test, I now feel much happier about masking the areas to be glued, in my case it's the underside of the ply sub-deck where it will be glued to the deck beams of my Boston Typhoon build.
Les
Interesting cos I never read that {-) coincidence? Glad it helped you Les.
Personally I'm not sealing the underside or inside of anything but I do need to glue sections on top of sealed ply.
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-BSQMVzq/0/a1e47209/X2/IMG_1206-X2.jpg)
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The jury is out but what do you think?
Painted or raw stainless
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-tC5DFwt/0/76c38bab/XL/IMG_1207-XL.jpg)
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Very well done. I would say painted is better looking
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Very well done. I would say painted is better looking
Thank you Kees, I thought so too but Wifey likes shiny <*<
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Looks good, perhaps a thin black edge arond it.
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Looks good, perhaps a thin black edge arond it.
Around what specifically Tim?
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Around the edge of the yellow just to denote the danger area.
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You're having a giraffe {-) I know my limitations {:-{
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You're having a giraffe {-) I know my limitations {:-{
Ask timbo to pop over to yours and paint it on for you {-) {-) {-)
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Great idea Brian :-))
However the real boat has no line and it looks better in the flesh without any ridges O0
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Great idea Brian :-))
However the real boat has no line and it looks better in the flesh without any ridges O0
:-))
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😂😂😂😂😂
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If you paint it then every time you need to access the hull here the bolts will get scratched and will need repainting.
With good testing and the like before final fitting, the hatches should not need removing very often, so all being well the paint will not get chipped often. If the wind is with you then your installment will be so reliable that the hatches will only need removing when you refit her in a few years.
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Only need access to the prop shaft oiler tubes
I have a ball end Allen key that should not scratch :-))
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OK back to work!
Deck held up while tow line arrives, easier to fit and test before the deck is glued over.
So back to Superstructure.
I had to think about this for a while but then concluded the best place to continue was with the roof skin.
The reason being that this interfaces with EVERY other piece and clearly easier to fettle each of them than this in one.
I've been building to measurements rather than templates (guide only) so using this for reference.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-TCSW8LV/0/fb8f5ce3/L/IMG_1210-L.jpg)
I turned the cabin upside down on the 1.5mm ply to mark reference points that would help when joined up
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-DFtd2qz/0/8f68e78d/L/IMG_1209-L.jpg)
I did of course run a straight edge across all the frames and sand until flat for 100% contact.
Now glued with aliphatic resin. I've left a little spare ply overhang where there is doubt.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-CG2VXX9/0/d4596c81/L/IMG_1211-L.jpg)
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Engine access hatch with receiver switch used to fix it in place. So it can be removed for painting and fixed on last.
The box has a bottom on it so the screws go right through holding it down.
I have no idea what the hatch lid SHOULD look like so that's at a standstill until I get a picture ;)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-B7qJS9H/0/c46048cf/XL/IMG_1214-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-HsgmGWG/0/b018cc5f/XL/IMG_1216-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-pRJsVFn/0/df6764ec/XL/IMG_1215-XL.jpg)
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MMM plans show the engine hatch much taller than it actually is so I've cut it down to match this image. I can see the upstand is royal blue and the lid is deck colour but the detail is too obscure :((
(http://photos.marinetraffic.com/ais/showphoto.aspx?photoid=1942997)
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I'm building the deckhouse and I want to know what you did where the port and starboard door recesses are.
Did you cut away the sole plate in this gap? My instinct tells me it doesn't belong as it creates a trip hazard.
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Sorted
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Night all
I'll leave you with some build music :-))
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XCc4rDU-24I
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No tow line turned up today <:(
Ordered this to butcher and use as a GOG
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/271973635211
Enquired as to whether an 810:1 geared motor will hold fast without power rather than 3000:1
Continued with deck house
Off to bed early riser for work
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I ordered the 810:1 motor from Maplins online @ £24.99 free delivery.
My tow line still has not arrived so looks like it will all come together.
I'll save the 3000:1 for the Maltby where I can design & accommodate a larger circumference winding drum :-))
I'm working Friday which is overtime! to pay for the schottels I just bought 8)
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Picture updates
This is really slow going and I'm not going to try go any faster.
Door recesses done
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-sGtkc8D/0/b3f350f2/M/IMG_1231-M.jpg)
The templates show the front walls in three pieces but I'm preparing to do it in one wrap around rather than having joints that may open in the future.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-Dxch9sB/0/ff7cfc74/M/IMG_1232-M.jpg)
Probably need to make the corners less severe yet.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-3pxVdbL/0/3e71ed0a/X2/IMG_1233-X2.jpg)
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There are several methods of covering rounded corners depending on how much fettling you mind doing Andy. tight corners like these can be problematic for some materials especially if they tend to be brittle like some plys and plastics (certainly if old having lost their elastic properties).
It will be interesting to see what you choose to do as it is becoming a nice looking bridge.
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Thanks Ian
Friday! Yippee 8)
Postman left it all for today
Motor from Maplins
Wera ball end allen key drivers for deck screws
builders twine
SS shackle cut down to use as Gog
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-MznnD7D/0/c1a96697/X2/IMG_1248-X2.jpg)
Made a larger diameter drum for the 3000:1 motor to use on next build. Will wind 750/800mm per minute
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-Lq4PdZP/0/415ab903/X2/IMG_1243-X2.jpg)
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Nice fit for half an hour work 8)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-4MjjFpT/0/ca6f1990/X2/IMG_1249-X2.jpg)
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I appreciate that individual pictures don't capture scale so here is a comparison of the two motors and drums.
For the un initiated they are made from Paxolin (google) three discs of 6mm and two of 3mm joined with CA
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-5qxDNkS/0/496dca86/XL/IMG_1250-XL.jpg)
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:-))
I'll now remove it and glue the decks on before refitting
https://www.facebook.com/Techno100/videos/10155189509832593/
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Deck nailed on (30 min resin) winch refitted quite easily and 3.5metres of para cord wound on.
I didn't like the builders stuff as it was only twisted line.
Next the two side decks
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-hcxRnPn/0/3433522e/X3/IMG_1253-X3.jpg)
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Extra stringers fitted with 5min resin
Better get a move on as she's getting launched at Kirklees tomorrow 8)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-qhq8MKP/0/81355cba/X3/IMG_1254-X3.jpg)
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I hope your innaugral sail goes well Andy.
It is great when stuff arrives. It is like Christmas :O) I have had two deliveries of haynes fittings which is a joy.
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:-))
Bit more
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-RqQrs6g/0/4f5f9716/X3/IMG_1255-X3.jpg)
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Loving this bit 8)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-rgNpFhc/0/4a751593/X3/IMG_1256-X3.jpg)
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Very nice all coming together hope she goes well.
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Looking good :-))
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Thanks went great and I think on completion she won't need any ballast at the bow and perhaps a bit at the stern to level out :-))
Difficult to film with a phone and drive at same time
https://www.facebook.com/Techno100/videos/10155192006642593/ (https://www.facebook.com/Techno100/videos/10155192006642593/)
No water ingress. Spending rest of the day re opening the washports and perhaps remodelling the lower deck ones that are not like the real ship
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-VVnv33k/1/e5b1b702/X3/IMG_1262-X3.jpg)
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So these wash ports then. The hull cast markings would have you believe that these are not particularly high. I've cut mine out bigger than suggested but when comparing to the actually vessel they are still no where near big enough.
Looking at photographs I estimate a washport equals 25% of the bulwark height which would equate to 7.5mm on mine.
Here they're at about 6mm but I think they'd look better BIGGER. What do you think?????????
The bulwark benefits from better rigidity because of the styrene so I don't think strength will be compromised.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-GpW38bg/0/f601e55e/X2/IMG_1264-X2.jpg)
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So I think I'm going for here bottom of tape
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-hTWxmPq/0/e0777954/XL/IMG_1265-XL.jpg)
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Subtle change
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-VSbgvFf/0/d9a244e4/X3/IMG_1268-X3.jpg)
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If the real ones are 7.5mm and you don't mind grinding the extra depth then go for it Andy.
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If the real ones are 7.5mm and you don't mind grinding the extra depth then go for it Andy.
I did {-) that's it above :-)
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As anyone come up with a better solution for the rubbing strakes than the huge square section provided by MMM ?????????
I'm sure I've seen a better solution somewhere {:-{
EDIT
One possibility
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sundely-Brand-New-High-Quality-Small-Rubber-Strip-D-Profile-x-10-Meter-/282112221553
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Hi Andy try looking on Seals Direct site they do some great rubber on there.
regards John
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Thanks John
I don't understand why they make the strake in the GRP only half the width of the rubber they supply {:-{
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http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/cap-hull-fenders.html#aCMR940
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Had a break as been very achey and tired after work.
Been off today and as it was warm I took the opportunity to work outside with the smelly stuff.
I started by levelling the bulwarks and filled in the incorrect main deck washports and repositioned the hole watsit for the tiemeups to where it should be further forwards.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-KMNQZMR/0/12a6e4d2/X2/IMG_1277-X2.jpg)
Back indoors after a good sanding and opened up the revised washports. The centre one may need extending forwards a bit yet but I'll wait for more photos
Also started attaching gunwale?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-hSpF4Ww/0/4299a203/XL/IMG_1279-XL.jpg)
Comparison
(http://photos.marinetraffic.com/ais/showphoto.aspx?photoid=1146500)
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One thing I have noticed is that rust looks better on navy blue, so if you are weathering, it will be an interesting look to create.
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One thing I have noticed is that rust looks better on navy blue, so if you are weathering, it will be an interesting look to create.
Interesting Ian but I doubt I'll go down that route having made so much effort to produce a quality build. I think getting weathering right is another skill that I can swerve {-)
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I came across a bag of bollards today @£3.95 for 6 :-)) by Robbe.
The one on the right is as they come, the one in the background is the piddly out of scale MMM offering and the one in position is cut down to almost match the actual item
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-qb9xtwR/0/af283dd1/XL/IMG_1282-XL.jpg)
A little bit more off the sides and some sanding it will be bob on
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-8fwnzgd/0/d898afb4/XL/IMG_1281-XL.jpg)
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Hi Andy.
Are you going to Balne Moor on Sunday?.
John
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Not sure John but possible. Just to socialise if I do :-)) no boat
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Bring the Afon there will be a steering course.
John
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Some of the MMM fittings are very good with a lot of fettling.
These will look the part when satin lacquered and roped.
However the deck crane kit is another load of crap which is a shame, so I'm looking for an alternative ?
What's the best way to fix these in place?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-spHRh4L/0/abf25be7/X2/IMG_1284-X2.jpg)
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Following on from my front bollards which now I have pictures prove to be ideal. I now have a rear bollard comparison <*< absolute crap!
Is this for real {-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-r687h7H/0/e0be3d5a/M/IMG_1296-M.jpg)
The real deal
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-nwf9nN2/0/448728a1/M/IMG_1295-M.jpg)
Fortunately I have seen something that will do and will go back and grab them asap
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Given that I'm generally pleased with my effort here I'm still left wondering is that really enough rope?
Personally I think it needs to be three times longer than supplied. Why would you have a coiled drum with nearly no rope on it? Is that just tight or what :((
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-DCgfdFp/0/fd8575ff/X2/IMG_1323-X2.jpg)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth/i-Lfz6k89/0/94dbd20e/XL/IMG_1302-XL.jpg)
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Looking back at my MMM invoice it appears I paid nearly £170 for fittings which in hindsight was a big mistake.In future I would cherry pick what is actually worth it or appropriate for the model :((
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Today at Doncaster the component shop exchanged the two motors I bought prior to actually knowing what I was doing {-)
I had bought 15 and a 30:1 ratio motors at £10 each and they swapped for a 500:1 which is also ideal for a winch and will do 30rpm :-)) So I have a contingency for future
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"Why would you have a coiled drum with nearly no rope on it? Is that just tight or what" :((
Ocean going tug hauling winches as designed only with sufficient drum size and hauling rope so the tug can stand off the larger vessel
When at sea, the vessel to be towed will throw a light heaving line to the tug, the tug then winds this heaving line over the winch jipsy drum until the large long poly tow rope is on board the tug.......this then is linked to the vessel winch poly rope. The tug can then feed off her own poly hauling rope until she is clear of the larger vessel under tow
In some cases, the main poly tow rope is transferred to the tugs hook, thus taking any mechanical load off the hydraulic winch system [although this is more common for additional tugs used as back stays]
The actual tow rope being used is 80% of the vessel being towed...
When the large vessel is alongside, the large long poly ropes then become the wharf mooring ropes and immediately placed under auto tension
This certainly was the case with 100,000 tonne ore carriers berthing and departing Kembla
Derek
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Interesting :-)) but I refer you to the photo of the actual vessel %)
Thank you Derek
EDIT I have just bought 10 metres of BRAIDED as it should be 3mm rope £5.99 :-))
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Yes I see the smaller circumference poly rope on the winch, this could be just a heaving/handling 'line' [rope], as ocean going tugs could also be used for riverine work where differing roping methods were employed
I have no real experience in tug towing operations, however was engaged in maintaining hydraulic systems on BHP Fleet Operations vessels in Kembla.......[this naturally included hydraulic anchor and mooring winch functions] hence my understanding of roping procedures for these vessels
I am sure another member with far more knowledge with tug towing could offer additional comment here
Derek
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Me neither but pictures speak louder than words :-)
The smaller heaving rope is on top of a full drum of tow line. My MMM offering don't even have one and a half layers {-)
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If he wanted to get away with a short length of string in the kit he should have made the drum core twice the diameter so it at least appeared loaded {:-{
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Another noo toy 8)
http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/ce/en/product/821001/Proxxon-Micromot-TG-125E-Disc-Sander
(http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/medias/global/ce/8000_8999/8200/8210/8210/821001_RB_00_FB.EPS_400.jpg)
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So the front bollards are being mounted on 2 10mm square strips of spruce and the pins go right through into positioning indentations in the deck to help final assembly. They should look great in royal blue.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-6mhfVh8/0/36676581/L/IMG_1331-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-xnqrrwF/0/c69c5a0f/L/IMG_1333-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-GrpvShJ/0/13379d07/L/IMG_1332-L.jpg)
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And another noo toy %%
https://www.manomano.co.uk/band-saw/record-power-bs9-9-bandsaw-3286292
(https://cdn.manomano.fr/record-power-bs9-9-bandsaw-L-363352-3376981_1.jpg)
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Now I like that :-))
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Me too I could not resist
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIKtxaku0QM
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I've turned her around now to bring the starboard side up to speed.
The bulwarks are nice and firm even before adding ribs.(thanks chipchase) :-)) The beauty of lining with styrene is it gives something to glue to with the styrene capping which is also very solid. Must be a right chore with P38 filler or balsa as some do
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-q36P5BS/0/8c25b2ac/XL/IMG_1334-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-ZkpKZMc/0/7236c549/XL/IMG_1335-XL.jpg)
I'm making the bow and stern gunwales from 2mm styrene sheet. All the ribs too :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-wrx88bm/0/766bb3d2/XL/IMG_1336-XL.jpg)
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I'm not rushing here as I'm reliably informed that a tug of the same design works out of Liverpool and we are going there early June on holiday.
If I phone Smit in advance there's a very good chance they'll let me aboard and I'll be armed with camera AND tape measure {-)
Thanks (Kevgarth)
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Turned my attention back to the Deckhouse. My plan to do the front and sides in one piece became immediately obvious that it was not doable as the ply is not wide enough and it will only bend across its width. So I've attempted a joint in the centre rather than in three sections.
After sanding the formwork perfectly to ensure contact on all surfaces I steamed the ply where it was to be bent and held it in place while it dried off a bit. There is no way to clamp this in place so I had to use CA for quick dry and hold.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-qV9mqzS/0/c314e47b/X2/IMG_1339-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-8688fxC/0/681d2e9b/X2/IMG_1338-X2.jpg)
Excess trimmed off and sanded.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-gLCsmbk/0/30429985/X2/IMG_1340-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-pc6hxx3/0/6c126f05/X2/IMG_1341-X2.jpg)
Quite pleased and I believe quite rare on Portgarths but worth the effort.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-nFGF6jC/0/d8fcdfbe/X2/IMG_1342-X2.jpg)
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Since receiving actual photos it is apparent that that front slope does not quite slope in one swoop but stops short of the front wall and levels out. I can rectify this with the addition of a triangular strip of wood across the front edge
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That'll save a lot of bother.
The wheel house is turning into a nice piece of wood working. I like the curves. :}
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Thanks Ian
Awesome :-)) now I need to convert another bedroom as toolroom
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-km4pQ4Z/0/7b3ea4d3/X2/IMG_1346-X2.jpg)
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8)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-F5HqLtZ/0/54f92f5c/X2/IMG_1347-X2.jpg)
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Disk sanders are so useful. I bought one ten years ago and despite sanding a knuckle soon after buying it, I have never looked back. In fact, I only recently changed the disk. I have a small pece of MDF that I place on the bed wen sanding small pieces so they don't get pulled down between the bed and the spinning disk to their destruction.
I reccomend you use a vacuum cleaner (Wickes sell a basic one that makes a good one) as an extractor and make sure to clean any wood dust out of it before sanding any metal as it can cause a fire, as testafied by Northbrook college (West Sussex) losing two extractor systems in as many years due to morons doing just this despite being told not to.
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I'm going to buy a Henry from Costco :-))
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Good idea.
My best friend designed a system of debris removal from his bench and workplace floor using the same hoover. He linked two openings,one on the floor in the base of the bench, and one at bench top level with ducting and then had a plug for the upper one. It saved disconnecting the hoover from a machine and prevented the ubiquitous damage that a flailing hose will cause {:-{
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More toys 8) https://youtu.be/p9bscnD17Gg (https://youtu.be/p9bscnD17Gg)
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/copy_of_copy_of_Table_Top_Tools___Accessories.html (http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/copy_of_copy_of_Table_Top_Tools___Accessories.html)
Bought the pen sander too.
Chronos are much cheaper than the other sellers :-))
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Top tools peroxxon I've got one of these.
http://www.axminster.co.uk/proxxon-mf-70-milling-machine-371104?gclid=CjwKCAjwr_rIBRBJEiwA6C-ex4h1kUtnb9dpsxRythDJliDfGxMBp8-TRVssTBjWlM-Xv0nS-50SQxoC-lcQAvD_BwE
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More toys 8) https://youtu.be/p9bscnD17Gg (https://youtu.be/p9bscnD17Gg)
http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/copy_of_copy_of_Table_Top_Tools___Accessories.html (http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/copy_of_copy_of_Table_Top_Tools___Accessories.html)
Bought the pen sander too.
Chronos are much cheaper than the other sellers :-))
That table saw is light yeards ahead of some you can get for full size carpentary! Well worth the money, and looked after, it will outlive it's owner.
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I think I wish I'd invested in Proxxon exclusively but for now I'll see how everything works out as I build yet another craft room. My cheapo silverline pillar drill does the job just fine but a proxxon is so much more refined.
I doubt I would find use for the milling machine Tim but its a lovely and the price isn't an issue. :-))
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That table saw is light yeards ahead of some you can get for full size carpentary! Well worth the money, and looked after, it will outlive it's owner.
As I'm near 60 I tend to agree {-)
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I could do with an extraction system with at least 6 branches . I might have to make a manifold.
We already know the plumbing waste pipe through worktop trick don't we children ok2
I feel a trip to B&Q coming on soon :}
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When this bag is full it pays for a Maltby hull which thus far seems very intangible
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-pKq56jH/0/a9892fa5/XL/IMG_1357-XL.jpg)
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A bit slow lately as life gets in the way so just another angle shot to bring the topic back in line.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-kjDFQZz/0/00a428a2/X3/IMG_1353-X3.jpg)
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I do like the angles on the bridge Andy.
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Thanks Ian. That is the deck house, I've yet to start the wheelhouse :-))
Just bought this Bosch rather than a proxxon vac. £162 delivered from Czech republic
Bosch GAS 20 L SFC
(https://cdn.pji.nu/product/standard/800/2891269.jpg)
(https://i.alza.cz/ImgW.ashx?fd=FotoAddOrig&cd=BOC162b-02&i=1.jpg)
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£132 delivered as opposed to Uk price over £170
https://www.reichelt.com/gb/en/Power-Tools/PROXXON-28128/3/index.html?ACTION=3&LA=517&ARTICLE=30171&GROUPID=575&trstct=lsbght_sldr::30172
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:-))
Got one 😀
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I should have got the vice MS 4 at the same time Doh!
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Very busy Sunday. Nearly there
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-4mxss57/2/de561499/M/IMG_1368-M.jpg)
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:-))
Looking good am a bit green.
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That's one tidy workshop O0 this is my one :-))
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Mine isn't finished {-) lots more kit coming :-)
Nice table saw ok2
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Everyone will ask what hull is that ? O0
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Its a Dumas kit Mr Darby tug.
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Nice and I see no longer available. At 48" its not one for me but look forwards to seeing yours built :-))
Timbo! The seller added a vice for me after I emailed them so saved the postage.
I bought this too as a better option
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351298016560?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Had a funeral this morning but spent the rest of today repainting and replacing shelving. No power tools arrived :((
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-PDdJhNq/0/b9abd7ba/XL/IMG_1377-XL.jpg)
However the tool room means more room after a reorganisation in the build room :} more to do but it'll be ready to get stuck in after the holidays
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-wnQNQg8/0/ab2d7cdd/XL/IMG_1380-XL.jpg)
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WOW whats your miss's think about you having a workshop in the house Andy??? Or have you got to wipe your feet when you go out the door onto the landing? I see you got a plan on the wall have you got in contact with Damen yet so you can swap you decor in your new workshop as you'll find it more advantageous to your build !!!
Kevin
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She's not left out :-))
No not been in touch yet too busy
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-MPqsDrv/0/a15d6834/XL/IMG_1382-XL.jpg)
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could I ask what the yellow piece of equipment is in the first photo on the right hand side of your workshop. looks interesting.
Jim.
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Happy days, nearly everything arrived including the Vac from Czech republic at great savings. I turned tomorrows overtime down as its going to be cracking the flags here. May even get some modelling done
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-W9Ht7Mn/0/81e66dbf/X2/IMG_1389-X2.jpg)
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could I ask what the yellow piece of equipment is in the first photo on the right hand side of your workshop. looks interesting.
Jim.
Yes Jim it is a swivel vice made by Stanley (sub £20) but I just bought a rather dearer proxxon that is better quality
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stanley-STA183069-Multi-Angle-Hobby-Vice-Clamp-Swivel-Portable-1-83-069-New/172325090769?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44293%26meid%3Da23d43e92f024f6e8e83eb8e693b16e0%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D192157502303 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Stanley-STA183069-Multi-Angle-Hobby-Vice-Clamp-Swivel-Portable-1-83-069-New/172325090769?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D44293%26meid%3Da23d43e92f024f6e8e83eb8e693b16e0%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D192157502303)
This has better jaws
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Proxxon-FMZ-Precision-Vice-702052-SPECIAL-OFFER-Ref-28608-/331657525717?hash=item4d385439d5
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Great build there I am to building the portgarth here in Ontario Canada.
been working on it for the last six years.
You have inspired me to finally get it done.
wiling try to send some pics after I figure out how.
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Great :-)) and thanks
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I am pretty sure our mate Jim was eluding to this yellow device which I assumed was some sort of vertical shaft rotary sanding device with a fixed table, however had not seen :o such a device on the market
Derek
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That is orange {-)
However just in case
It is a bobbin sander branded triton and cheapest at screwfix
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Great build there I am to building the portgarth here in Ontario Canada.
been working on it for the last six years.
You have inspired me to finally get it done.
wiling try to send some pics after I figure out how.
If that proves to be a struggle you can send them to watersa@ntlworld.com and I'll host and post them on your behalf :-))
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Good morning. Here I have some very nice pictures sent by our new member Don :-)) Thank you very much for sharing :-)
I see you did all the curves 8) I'd very much like to know how you did those deckhouse side windows ?
and errrrrr the wheelhouse window frames :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/MMM-Portgarth-by-Don-Leggett/i-Db8BtBX/1/f86e84b8/X3/image3-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/MMM-Portgarth-by-Don-Leggett/i-g6GWzpV/1/50d281e2/X3/image2-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/MMM-Portgarth-by-Don-Leggett/i-WpTswZf/1/b1cf6788/X3/image1-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/MMM-Portgarth-by-Don-Leggett/i-2WNJqGF/1/78545947/X3/image5-X3.jpg)
I love that stand too! 8)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/MMM-Portgarth-by-Don-Leggett/i-PFGCmSn/1/55339553/X3/image7-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/MMM-Portgarth-by-Don-Leggett/i-ZjTtLkJ/1/ff00bc6d/X3/Image%2026-05-2017%20at%2009.12-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/MMM-Portgarth-by-Don-Leggett/i-rDFpd5S/1/8a67515f/X3/image4-X3.jpg)
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Good morning well morning over here.
The window frames are all made out of brass strip bent the right shape
Then soulderd the ends.
Glued them in with thick cyanoacrylate then sanded all together with disk sander
To about 1/16 pertrusion.
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Thanks that is very useful :-))
Next I'm on with remodelling the stern AGAIN.
This is how MMM produced it for many years and it is completely wrong just like the concave bow.
So this which drops rather than rises as it ought to is getting a makeover.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-5MSqfkR/0/a94e8593/X2/IMG_1395-X2.jpg)
Actual (credit to Kevgarth for the pictures)(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth/i-ZWQmCcH/0/61af4523/XL/IMG_1305-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth/i-P4Wkkvd/0/2b736f50/XL/IMG_1297-XL.jpg)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-PWfW6z3/0/46dcc26a/X2/IMG_1397-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-9HWc8dF/0/1099eb86/X2/IMG_1399-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-6sBgpX5/0/d7061f71/X2/IMG_1398-X2.jpg)
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As yet undecided but I feel I must completely remove the rubbing strakes (and fit some ] section) as moulded as they are neither use nor ornament in the size they are for attaching rubber of an appropriate scale.
Meanwhile the most immediate plan is to open the rest of the wash ports and fit the rest of the gunnels
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Hi mate lovely build there - any chance of a linky to where you got that Bosch extractor - ta :-))
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Hi mate lovely build there - any chance of a linky to where you got that Bosch extractor - ta :-))
Thank you Mark and Likewise your Fairmount :-))
Its got even cheaper :((
https://www.alza.co.uk/bosch-gas-20-l-sfc-d4737572.htm?kampan=adeu_uk-pla-cpa_produkty_c_9046326_BOC162b&gclid=CjwKEAjwpJ_JBRC3tYai4Ky09zQSJAC5r7ruHkk3bhFNZKL3G7mhSxqoggKty3hPxxkAnkbpepEejxoCI3fw_wcB
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Good man - I've searched every where and that is a cracking deal on the price. My next build will be starting soon (hopefully) and theres a lot of sanding involved so this will keep my wife very very happy
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I'm glad I went the extra yard today and the hull below plimsol line will only need a recover of lacquer
Transforms the stern to a close likeness from a don't really care it'll do >:-o
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-9qJr67B/0/dfc26683/X2/IMG_1405-X2.jpg)(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-5MSqfkR/0/a94e8593/X2/IMG_1395-X2.jpg)
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Going well today. However the asymmetry again rears its ugly head around the stern. It's as though the whole starboard side is lagging behind port by as much as 5mm which plays havoc with bulwarks n gunnels
All one can do is try disguise it or build your own plug (I'm thinking about it)
It's a shame to work so hard when the product undermines your efforts.
I'll avoid the birdseye view <*<
Best effort
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-xCL4XZD/0/1e8d093b/X2/IMG_1407-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-rWRLrLB/0/00152ace/X2/IMG_1408-X2.jpg)
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Hi Andy do you have to worry about water getting in through the access covers on the deck I'm worried about my electronics underneath.
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Not if you position them so any leaks or drips are not directly onto something delicate.
My main hatch will have a gasket and be screwed down. The rear hatches will just be vaseline and screws.
On a clam day I don't think water is an issue but when choppy it can be different but I think mine can take a fair bit of bilge before it'll sink O0
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That looks a lot better Andy it's a great pity you had to do this in the first place.
When you off to Liverpool?
Regards
Kevin
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Next Thursday for 12 days
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Going well today. However the asymmetry again rears its ugly head around the stern. It's as though the whole starboard side is lagging behind port by as much as 5mm which plays havoc with bulwarks n gunnels
All one can do is try disguise it or build your own plug (I'm thinking about it)
It's a shame to work so hard when the product undermines your efforts.
I'll avoid the birdseye view <*<
Best effort
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-xCL4XZD/0/1e8d093b/X2/IMG_1407-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-rWRLrLB/0/00152ace/X2/IMG_1408-X2.jpg)
Welcome to the world of model boat building Andy
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Next Thursday for 12 days
I'm not so far into the build yet that I can't change this to the Smit Belgie as Portgarths are common as muck {-)
(http://photos.marinetraffic.com/ais/showphoto.aspx?photoid=2028307)
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Good idea, something different go for it.
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Nearly finished the gunnels, just the bow piece to make.
My next plan of attack is to mask the bulwarks and paint the decks. This will be red primer with matt lacquer.
As Im using 2mm styrene for the bulwark ribs I see little point trying to glue them where they meet the deck as it is doubtful they would stick securely anyway.
So in my mind its better to have the deck waterproof and finished now.
Any advice to the contrary??
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This morning the mast was not even on my mind then this afternoon I noticed all the brass tubes I'd bought in a drawer. Most of it way oversize! Anyway one thing lead to another and it's underway
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-tgv6KsV/0/db07c805/X3/IMG_1411-X3.jpg)
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I really admire your tenacity (and build skills) with getting accuracy with your build however I have got to ask are you going to use the boat for towing? or will it just be a show model.
Please don't be offended by my question but I have to ask this because the rivet counters and " that's not how it was built" show people were my reason for stopping building model boats.
No offence meant!
Regards, Pete.
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Yes it's a working boat hence the working winch and beefed up gog.
I see no reason to not strive for as close a resemblance as possible
It takes no longer to do it right than about right
I build for me no one else and no offence taken :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-LpMX82s/0/08fd39be/XL/IMG_1414-XL.jpg)
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I have decide to grind off the strake mouldings completely as they are not fit for purpose to attach the rubber fenders and are too long too.
I have bought [ section styrene that will accommodate 8mm round neoprene cord.
My problem was finding a suitable strong adhesive and my google searching has lead me to this
https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/gb/rc-modelling/107-fusion-5060243900166.html (https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/gb/rc-modelling/107-fusion-5060243900166.html)
The fusion will also be used for the shelf like structures over the bow & stern fenders. I have 18mm neoprene for the fenders which is better than the 8mm gas pipe from MMM
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121060637076?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=420119478283&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121060637076?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=420119478283&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
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Andy...on a different subject......you mentioned using a gasket for the main deck hatch, however only using petroleum jelly for the covers over the steering gear
The latter on a hot day will migrate away.......I know the yachters say it's fine....but considering the components that could be dampened, an alternate is available
Hylomar Universal Blue is an excellent gasket in a tube........$20.00 maybe....you could also use it for the main hatch......you won't regret it :-))
Derek
PS some models also have a few small replaceable bags of Silica Gel installed in the hull.......[although primarily for locations with warmer temperatures with higher humidity]
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Thank you Derek I will :-)) the gasket on the main hatch is purely to bring the paxolin flush with the deck. In reality some water ingress is fine as nothing is placed where drips would be detrimental
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Yes it's a working boat hence the working winch and beefed up gog.
I see no reason to not strive for as close a resemblance as possible
It takes no longer to do it right than about right
I build for me no one else and no offence taken :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-LpMX82s/0/08fd39be/XL/IMG_1414-XL.jpg)
O0 O0 O0 :-)) :-)) :-))
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I've made a start by filing off the starboard strakes. This leaves cavities that I have filled with 15 min resin. When hard and sanded it should leave a nice wide flat strip for the [ profile new strake runners. This also means I can fit the strakes to where they should actually start and end.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-XHv7pNh/0/96b1d02b/X3/IMG_1422-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-tbZqmDq/0/e66b85fb/X3/IMG_1423-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-m93rP2T/0/f56558a2/X3/IMG_1424-X3.jpg)
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Ah !! the fun part. It's always nice to use filler and get a smooth surface.
One of my favourite parts. It's looking better each time I see it.
ken
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With regards to Hylomar gasket sealant. Have any of you used it?
- have on many engines in the 70'a & 80's. I can tell you its a brilliant sealant, but it is not re-sealable! Once you remove your plate, engine cover or whatever, it will need to be scraped off and re applied, it only semi cures in an engine environment so making it relatively easy to remove compared to the silicone variety's.
In short I wouldn't want or advise to use as a hatch sealant, it will cause more trouble than it is worth.
What you could do is lay a bead of kitchen/bathroom silicone around your opening, apply some veg oil to you hatch cover or wrap in cling film. Then lightly lay into place just enough to squash the sealant. Leave it for a day to set. Then remove the hatch, leave another couple of days to fully cure and you have a good watertight gasket that you can fasten your hatch down to with a couple of screws/bolts or whatever you are using.
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Thanks Ken
Hi Brian
My Kort hatches will never be removed unless there is a mechanical failure so Silicone makes more sense than vaseline of Hylomar.
My main hatch will initially be a self adhesive gasket which is 2mm expanded foam used for ductwork supports. If it won't compress to .5mm I'll have to try another option :-))
This will be the replacement strake carrier. 8mm neoprene cord is on the way but may need 9mm yet.
Fusion adhesive is on the way too.
Unfortunately a holiday is looming so I'm not going to get anything done :((
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-n3HMF6N/0/98c49d3a/X2/IMG_1426-X2.jpg)
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Has anyone counted the rivets {-)
Picture by Kevgarth
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth/i-xvs5hwC/0/607cc3c9/XL/IMG_1313-XL.jpg)
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£132 delivered as opposed to Uk price over £170
https://www.reichelt.com/gb/en/Power-Tools/PROXXON-28128/3/index.html?ACTION=3&LA=517&ARTICLE=30171&GROUPID=575&trstct=lsbght_sldr::30172 (https://www.reichelt.com/gb/en/Power-Tools/PROXXON-28128/3/index.html?ACTION=3&LA=517&ARTICLE=30171&GROUPID=575&trstct=lsbght_sldr::30172)
@timbo
RS components have it sprayed in alternative livery but still the same drill at £325 with the VAT >>:-(
Robbing gits
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/miniature-power-drills/5062968/?searchTerm=pillar+drill&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E4C446573635461786F6E6F6D794272616E645365617263685465726D325F74656D70266C753D656E266D6D3D6D617463687061727469616C6D617826706D3D5E5B5C707B4C7D5C707B4E647D3F5C707B5A737D2D2C2F255C2E5D2B2426706F3D31313326736E3D592673743D4B4559574F52445F4D554C54495F414C5048415F414E445F4D554C54495F414C5048415F4E554D455249432673633D592677633D4E4F4E45267573743D70696C6C6172206472696C6C267374613D70696C6C6172206472696C6C26
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Pirates😲😯
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On holiday and bored witless due to unseasonal weather.
Here's a picture of the 8mm nitrile rubber bead. I'm sure it would be a great fit when sikaflexed in place but I've ordered 9mm for delivery when I get home to compare them. Either is massively better than the rubber other suppliers provide
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-BKcMr4F/1/6e5b051d/X2/IMG_1437-X2.jpg)
( Admin edit ) :-)
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Looks good, need some of that my self.
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On holiday and bored witless due to unseasonal weather.
Here's a picture of the 8mm nitrile rubber bead. I'm sure it would be a great fit when sikaflexed in place but I've ordered 9mm for delivery when I get home to compare them. Either is massively better than the rubber other suppliers provide
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-BKcMr4F/1/6e5b051d/X2/IMG_1437-X2.jpg)
( Admin edit ) :-)
Sorry but IMHO the edit is inappropriate as my reference is specifically about the fender supplied with the kit not a third party.
@timbo the 9mm was here when I got home and fits perfect :-))
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Question.
Are there other instances of censorship I'm my thread? I had no email notification of this so presumably none regarding earlier submissions
To reiterate the situation. It is not the material that is in question but the fact that it is TWICE the size of the strake moulding in the GRP so not fit for purpose unless you grind off those mouldings.
If you are going to do this then it follows that you may as well fit C section styrene to accept a more realistic/appropriate rubber.
So MMM need to revise the moulding plug as they should have done years ago to amend all the other unsatisfactory features or asymmetry etc
If I don't post my findings its not of use to potential builders.
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:-))
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Has anyone counted the rivets {-)
Picture by Kevgarth
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth/i-xvs5hwC/0/607cc3c9/XL/IMG_1313-XL.jpg)
I forget how many i fitted to my Maltby Andy but it took quite a while LOL
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Coincidentaly I've just been looking at her :-)) How do you do that Brian, is it drops of glue?
Still waiting for my Maltby hull, last contact beginning of May :o
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I used dressmakers pins Andy ( without the wife knowing of course {-) ) I cut strips of plastic 1mm x 5mm wide drilled small holes then a drop of super glue on the pin before pushing through plastic. after I cut the excess off i dressed the underside on my belt sander, wet first before sanding as pins get hot and melt plastic, as i said it took quite a while.
Brian
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WoW {-) This is why yours looks the best simply the best 8)
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WoW {-) This is why yours looks the best simply the best 8)
LOL cheers Andy
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Another Question Brian.
When you've made up all your deck fittings what do you use to attach them to already painted finished surfaces?
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Andy my fittings are fixed with stainless steel bolts if you look at the photo of the bow winch it has 24 nuts and bolts holding it down the stern winch is drilled and tapped into the gearbox and bolts fitted from under the deck the same as the bow winch bollard, my decks are 9mm ply covered with 2mm plastic card. the main the small bollards have 15mm brass pins fitted that go through the deck.all my fittings are brass and silver soldered, i have towed strait from the winches and they are still very secure :-))
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Very nice.
Unfortunately all my fittings are resin cast. With some parts I've used 6mm brass bolts from below up into the towing lead. The gog is a stainless steel U bolt chopped down and will be glued with epoxy into holes in the deck. The other parts will only serve as decoration.
My tow line will run from a tube in the deck just behind the winch and will run over the top of the drum so effectively only serves to apply downwards pressure. I thought I'd attach this with silicon as it has a large flat surface.
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My tow line will run from a tube in the deck just behind the winch
I have seen quite a few models that are used for towing with systems like yours they work very well :-))
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I have seen quite a few models that are used for towing with systems like yours they work very well :-))
recap :-)) EDIT I should add that this system is not mine but gleaned from the knowledgeable collective of our forum members 8) especially the Balne Moor crew :-)
https://www.facebook.com/Techno100/videos/10155189509832593/ (https://www.facebook.com/Techno100/videos/10155189509832593/)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-rgNpFhc/0/4a751593/X2/IMG_1256-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-DHW3TPN/0/5e5c9748/XL/IMG_1203-XL.jpg)
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Can anyone offer advice on how to make a nice tether? not sure of the correct term, for the gog to tow line rope.
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Can anyone offer advice on how to make a nice tether? not sure of the correct term, for the gog to tow line rope.
OK we can come back to this (lives in hope)
Recall I complained about the completely out of scale bollards ? This is my recent choice for the main deck/stern. Having received them I'm well please they are customisable to suite by cutting the tops off and adding a couple of brass rod pins.
Pictures will follow.
Cheap as chips :-))
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MMB-LARGE-MOORING-BOLLARD-SET-FOR-MODEL-BOATS-4-PACK-/272691243650? (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MMB-LARGE-MOORING-BOLLARD-SET-FOR-MODEL-BOATS-4-PACK-/272691243650?)
Actual
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-nwf9nN2/0/448728a1/S/IMG_1295-S.jpg)
Poor
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-r687h7H/0/e0be3d5a/S/IMG_1296-S.jpg)
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You will have to buy a lathe Andy and make your own :-))
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Maybe one day :-))
Meanwhile ...... obvious which is nearer
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-wbccs9K/0/122eead2/XL/IMG_1509-XL.jpg)
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Excellent work there Andy.
Can you please tell me if your kort nozzles are square to the waterline or are they on a bit of a angle.
Mine the props want to rub so I'm trying to realign properly like yours.
This is my first build so I'm wanting to get it right.
Thanks. Don
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That looks better,looking good :-))
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Excellent work there Andy.
Can you please tell me if your kort nozzles are square to the waterline or are they on a bit of a angle.
Mine the props want to rub so I'm trying to realign properly like yours.
This is my first build so I'm wanting to get it right.
Thanks. Don
Hi Don
Wether right or wrong I don't know but yes I made my Korts vertical at 90 degrees to the waterline. The Korts are 70mm and my props are 65/66mm
I made my stern tubes as shallow an angle as possible but the props will still be slightly angled inside the Korts
Another point is I used the 8mm super smooth shafts which are also 1" shorter than the standard ones which helps to bring my very big motors nearer midships.
There are pictures in the thread of how I achieved alignment
Edit
Shortcut to gallery one
https://techno.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/
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A little light relief from tuggy
https://www.facebook.com/Techno100/videos/10155316493107593/
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Andy
I just felt I had to comment on the fact that in the few years I have been on this forum, this build is by far the best I have come across with regards to detail, accuracy, informity and most importantly inspiration :-))
In the last 4 nights I have studied and re-read this build twice in case I missed anything
Please keep it up
Can I ask how you cut your timber for when building things like the deck house?
The cuts seem to be absolutely straight and accurate and I am curious of your technique
Thanks
Dave
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Kind words Dave
Hopefully I'll get back on the job next month.
All my cutting up to now was with the scroll saw. With the deckhouse skin I fitted panels oversize and whittled back with utility knife then file or sanding block. No magic formula unfortunately just time and effort.
I did revisit her today to plan my next moves but there is lots of demand for my time lately.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-tc7WQc2/0/382931d8/XL/IMG_1892-XL.jpg)
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Definately worthy of the kind words though
so do you use a guide to get straight cuts or do you get close to the line then file /sand?
sorry for all the questions... I am just trying to collect as much useful experience and info
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Up to now it was the latter but I have more power toys at my disposal yet to be used
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Yes I have seen your new additions...am very jealous.
I will start with the hand sanding for a while
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I have some spare time for 3 weeks so I've restarted today and it's difficult deciding which direction to work but I felt like woodwork so I'm continuing the Deck house.
Front wrap finished.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-dJJ5mcP/0/2043c210/X2/IMG_2181-X2.jpg)
Roof trimmed to final shape and beginning making panels one by one
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-PPjHC5m/0/f074769f/X2/IMG_2184-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-qMfWQmQ/0/6d333f75/X2/IMG_2183-X2.jpg)
Sailing DF65 at Askern tomorrow :-))
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Very nice woodwork. Looks very complicated with all the different shapes and angles.
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Thank you Danielle
I think the Deck house is probably the easy part {-) The Wheel house will be a real test.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-KHwkVbd/0/1a7e340b/X2/IMG_2194-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-KHg4fgx/0/9796fd9a/X2/IMG_2195-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-bZkWXRT/0/4e9e84c8/X2/IMG_2196-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-prdzHqt/0/f4b9ce12/X2/IMG_2200-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-scCw6Jh/0/b1e287a3/X2/IMG_2199-X2.jpg)
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I really like the ladder and its fit into the superstructure, very neat Andy :-))
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Thanks
I had to grind a lot off the width and the MMM plans are wrong yet again. The foot of the stair should be well short of the deck edge but too late now >:-o
It's correct to the plan but on the actual boat there is a lot more space at the stair bottom
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I thought I may as well work on the wheelhouse concurrently. This is all virgin territory so I'm just following my nose.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-vzCKcQP/0/986fd684/X2/IMG_2202-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-dk9dz9c/0/cc100035/XL/IMG_2203-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-dbxdhZN/0/8dbe1cec/X2/IMG_2204-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-zLsHvbV/0/b5bf3041/X2/IMG_2205-X2.jpg)
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Disappointed :((
Was going well until I realised that there is nowhere near enough angle front and rear
I think maybe I should have thrown the templates and the plan is no better
Dilemma is do I start again {:-{
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-NDzDX7w/0/062f384a/X2/IMG_2214-X2.jpg)
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You bet :-)) better off guessing
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-JpBV94P/0/d24b388d/XL/IMG_2215-XL.jpg)
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In for a penny in for a pound as they say.
A quick workbench tech question: What mounts in/on that steel ring set into your bench top Andy? Looking at the holes in it, do you remove equipment when model boating, or as the bench served many roles in it's lifetime???
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Interesting question {-)
This earlier picture illustrates what I think you are meaning?
An IKEA chopping board has many uses :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-tgv6KsV/0/db07c805/X2/IMG_1411-X2.jpg)
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Is that a mast or some form of antennae!!!??
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth/i-nKWnxF5/0/18029e1b/L/IMG_1321-L.jpg)
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Better or what?
I've also fitted the first replacement rubbing strake receptacle using FUSION and it seems secure
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-7PSZF5F/0/9155119c/X2/IMG_2219-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-nqVhFLk/0/9acc118e/XL/IMG_2220-XL.jpg)
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Neat job on both counts Andy. I wish warships had rubbing strakes so our portholes, torpedo net gear etc didn't suffer from the lakes edge {:-{
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Thanks Ian
This took all day but I've used Aliphatic resin this time for more strength. The roof is probably harder to do and I'm ignoring MMM completely, should have learned by now.
QUESTION? I need an adhesive to stick neoprene rubber to styrene ???????????
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-JjHN3gx/0/e2944fa3/X3/IMG_2222-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-f8pd9Hr/0/e82d7a73/X3/IMG_2223-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-pGrNvHH/0/45d70b62/X3/IMG_2224-X3.jpg)
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To answer my own question I've opted for a try of Sikaflex 221 seeing as I had some left over from the motor and battery mounts
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-53JpKCn/0/f2f9b822/XL/IMG_2225-XL.jpg)
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Looking good Andy :-))
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Looking good Andy :-))
Thank you :-)
I could do with an idiots guide of how to do the wheelhouse windows :-))
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I have used the piece of ply I cut out of the support shelf as a template for the roof and then chamfered it to suit.
I'm attempting to build this as two separate units only to be fixed together when inside is complete
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-MMQP9j8/0/6084b3a1/XL/IMG_2230-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-KM2PBxS/0/03894867/XL/IMG_2231-XL.jpg)
Meanwhile the second strake is fitted.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-mMVwWrh/0/6ea3e4ed/XL/IMG_2232-XL.jpg)
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Having a good one today :-)) Things that I dreaded are falling down like pins.
Growing confidence in this FUSION adhesive lead me to have a go at the ledge above the Bow bumper.
First made a cardboard template to then cut out of 2mm styrene. A couple of applications above and below and its SOLID :-)
Still progressing the wheel house too.
Absolutely any tips on doing the windows will be very welcome
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-Nsfpg4d/0/6b108e54/X2/IMG_2237-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-QjvPtfm/0/b175c938/X3/IMG_2238-X3.jpg)
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I need a smaller diameter bumper for the stern. Is this for real £10.75 for ONE meter ;D http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neoprene-Sponge-Foam-Black-Cord-Closed-Cell-Rubber-15-0mm-O-D-/253082901747?var=&hash=item0 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neoprene-Sponge-Foam-Black-Cord-Closed-Cell-Rubber-15-0mm-O-D-/253082901747?var=&hash=item0)
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I need a smaller diameter bumper for the stern. Is this for real £10.75 for ONE meter ;D http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neoprene-Sponge-Foam-Black-Cord-Closed-Cell-Rubber-15-0mm-O-D-/253082901747?var=&hash=item0 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neoprene-Sponge-Foam-Black-Cord-Closed-Cell-Rubber-15-0mm-O-D-/253082901747?var=&hash=item0)
For sale 650mm of the above £7 :-))
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Had to stop work for Strictly {-)
Two pieces to make & fit but all in all with the Bow etc a good days effort.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-6gBWhhs/0/0a17b97f/X2/IMG_2241-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-8P6RK2q/0/22084f15/X2/IMG_2242-X2.jpg)
Worked well. I can cut away all the shelf back to the alignment strips which will give great unobscured viewing from above or below
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-5WdBg3Z/0/a7853653/X2/IMG_2243-X2.jpg)
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Am I doing enough pictures? more or fewer?
If anyone wants any particular views to aid their own build just say and if you can offer me any help please do :-))
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More the merrier Andy, an impressive build so far just hope mine turns out nearly as good as yours. Keep up the good work..... :-))
Stewart
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Cheers Stewart :-))
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A little tip regarding this FUSION adhesive
I discovered that it also sticks to paint and can be very useful if applied carefully
In too much quantity it will take paint off {-)
While using fusion it thickens progressively so you have to gauge what consistency you want and when.
For example if just filling cracks apply with a fine brush whilst still very fluid
For big grab jobs wait until it's a bit more gloopy
Sets in 15 to 20 mins
Looks expensive but it goes a long way
Deansmarine are the cheapest :-))
Edit
So far I've only worked in mixes of 2.5ml which is plenty
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This afternoon I ground off the MMM port side rubbing strakes and made good again with 15min epoxy. Once I get all the styrene attached to the outside of the hull I can start painting!!
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-nKFgBdt/0/cf87d8c9/XL/IMG_2252-XL.jpg)
Quite pleased with the wheelhouse
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-j56jppN/0/cac46f45/X2/IMG_2254-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-6mJssbM/0/80d5b17c/X2/IMG_2255-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-4nPNpSh/0/1a097c9c/X2/IMG_2256-X2.jpg)
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Just the stern fender shelves left to do.
Some trial dry fitting and bonding.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-tZsdfTq/0/b0495e8d/X2/IMG_2263-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-6vcX6hT/0/cea85ebf/X2/IMG_2264-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-JpPHrV2/0/1e8d6014/X2/IMG_2265-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-gLpKvgw/0/c07a9c04/X2/IMG_2266-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-wnBqvNb/0/728f73ff/X2/IMG_2267-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-S8HHLfJ/0/3ab5bec8/X2/IMG_2268-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-fGD3PTw/0/3388c967/X2/IMG_2269-X2.jpg)
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It's a pleasure to follow this build, your attention to detail is amazing!
Hama
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Looking brilliant :-))
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I like the fenders Andy, you have become almost obsessive with these but they look the business :-))
Re windows, Rule one, do not use superglue to stick them in place because it fogs the 'glass' and its removal innevitably causes scratches, or the bloomin 'glass' to come adrift leaving you with a square one situation. Uhu like glues likewise risk stringiness on the 'glass' and some corrosion if the 'glass' is styrene based (unlikey but worth thinking about).
Aviation modellers have various canopy glues available from the likes of Revel or Airfix/Humbrol (I think) that do not fog or string and so are more useful.
'Glass' can be bought in sheets as acetate or similar from good model shops. You can use a variety of re-purposed materials including 1.CD cases, 2. blister packaging, 3. Christmas card/ gift presentation box lids, 4. Perspex offcuts, 5. Acetate sheet from stationers, 6. Pouring your own windows using acrylic resin onto a glass base having made your own walls.
The first and forth suggestions are thicker and need to be cut with care so as not to melt or splinter but would be less wibbly. The rest are to varying degrees less liable to corrosion from glues but are more flexible, and so unless cut accurately or fitted into frames* might bow and look squiffy.
Fitting them can be done as individual pieces cut exactly to shape and bonded in with suitable adhesive, they can be fitted inside the superstructure and glued to the inner face of the wall, they can be laminated between an inner and outer wall skins, they can be fitted behind a frame* set into each apeture once paintng has been done and then an inner frame pre painted can be glued in place.
I have read lots and used one or two techniques in non model boat projects before including the poured resin technique in which I created Tudor style diamond pane windows by puring resin over rabbit hutch mech set diagonally 'back in't day' at college.
As ever, I doff my cap to my fellow members who will doubtless have many more ideas and tips all of which makes this place a Gold mine for Model making.
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Enjoying your build. very informative so - regarding pictures the more the merrier.
Graham
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Thank you all :-))
Thank you Ian for that contribution :-))
I was looking for an easy way {-) but I don't think thats going to happen unfortunately and there are so blummin many!
This was my first attempt earlier this week as advised by a club mate
This involved one strip of styrene joined at one side and another strip inside that with the joint at the opposite side. This looks ok but was incredibly fiddly given that the wheelhouse is built and not flat on a bench.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-4TBnQkC/0/cee86f4d/XL/IMG_2270-XL.jpg)
I'm going to try thicker styrene in just one layer next.
Today is masking and sanding (hull) ready for primer tomorrow hopefully, and if the foam for the stern fender arrives I will try get the shelves done.,
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When I made my 54" Hendon I used brass strip for thr window frames ,I found it easier to use than Styrene as it stays bent and doesn't try to spring out all over the place.
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Very nice :-))
That's worth a try thanks
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Sky cleared and Sunshine.
I've used plastic primer first the red oxide acrylic. Deck will be fine sanded and matt clear lacquer.
Outside hull will be grey primer before royal blue.
Lots of fine filling tomorrow before final primer.
Stern can wait and be masked around later.
So I should have a finished deck by Friday :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-fQWttwk/0/54aad445/X2/IMG_2273-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-qKt69hZ/0/86da85cf/X2/IMG_2274-X2.jpg)
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The brass idea is great. If you can make formers the shape of the window apetures minus the thickness of the brass, you can form them round these and then slip them into the openings.
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Yes that is exactly how I did it , as the Windows were quite small, it may be easier with bigger windows.
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For those other fellow Builders in case you haven't sussed? Easy access to all photographs via this link https://techno.smugmug.com (https://techno.smugmug.com)
So far we are on album 3 regarding the build but there are other portgarth pictures also. :-))
Thank you to those who provided real life pictures
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Always nice when first coat of paint goes on, your hard work and attention to detail is paying off........
Stewart
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Yes indeed Stewart :-))
After lots of filling and sanding I'm at the final primer. Matt Lacquer tomorrow then mask up for Royal blue .
How lucky I am with the weather.
I'm really looking forwards to bolting those hatches down :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-592sXhC/0/e5af074d/X3/IMG_2280-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-wVrfrph/0/bb3a8d87/X3/image-X3.jpg)
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Hi Andy looking good,as Brother George tugmad said it is easier with the brass frames than plastic ones.
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Thanks John I'll be giving it a go for sure :-))
Re title PORTGARTH logos
I've just bought some bespoke pre spaced letter sets
4x @ 12mm high and 4x @ 9mm high plus 2x BRISTOL @ 9mm high. I've been invoiced £5.50 delivered.
If anyone likes them when I've tried them and lacquered over just let me know and I'll direct you.
I bought twice the required number to allow for cock ups {-)
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Hi.
I don't know how far you have proceeded with the Portgarth, I have only just found your review. I made this model about 4 years ago and was fortunate enough to go on-board twice and had a trip around Swansea Docks. She does not have a bow thruster but will spin in her own length if a mixer is used to link rudder with motors. I took a load of photos, there were not restrictions on where I could go. These enabled me to modify a lot of the supplied white metal parts to near scale and detail the wheelhouse. All lights were made working. I still have the photos but the model has been sold. Good luck and enjoy the model.
MayJay
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Thank you
Yes we know it doesn't have a bow thruster but those who use their model to tow fit one anyway.
I have twin 3000rpm high torque motors and mixer steering :-))
Any pictures most gratefully received :-)) :-))
From the archives
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-2/i-c3sVZ8k/0/d474703c/X3/IMG_1192-X3.jpg)
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Deck is finally waterproof :-)
Some very picky imperfections that I can live with
So all remasking for royal blue next
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-h54KxJL/0/ee106fd7/X2/IMG_2282-X2.jpg)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-nxchwR2/0/74df3291/X3/IMG_2285-X3.jpg)
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beautiful work and workmanship..........superb.
Jim.
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Thanks Jim :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-SJbdwp2/0/6fa5ed25/X2/IMG_2292-X2.jpg)
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Hi that is a very nice finish that you have there, but aren't you a little worried about ruining it when you fit the bulwark support knees all around?
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The deck will be protected and the ribs will only be glued to the bulwarks :-))
Styrene to styrene
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Oh very good thinking there.👍👍👍
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Oh very good thinking there.👍👍👍
Only made possible due to the great advice by members provided early on :-)) Otherwise I'd have been following MMMs build guide of covering the bulwarks in car body filler >:-o
I plan to use 1.5mm styrene which will give a big contact area and make each one precisely so it meets the deck perfectly.
When masked and painted no one would know its not glued
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I originally dismissed the crane kit but in between painting I've had time to have another look.
First thing was to glue it up then grind off all the telescopic parts as The Portgarth crane is a fixed length.
I didn't really fancy fixing this to the deck without it being easily detachable and as supplied its a bit wobbly when mounted on the base without glue.
So I came up with this idea.
I had two pieces of brass tube that fit in one another so I fitted the larger dia in the base and the smaller on a reduced diameter stub on the crane. These now fit like a glove without any play but easy to remove or rotate.
So I will drill and tap the deck to take the base plate.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-PRfdbB8/1/1bdd13ed/XL/IMG_2293-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-62qtVQP/0/9c8b62a1/XL/IMG_2294-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-bh7nZRR/0/2bed5a78/XL/IMG_2295-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-QQ9sBWs/0/cc27bd32/XL/IMG_2296-XL.jpg)
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Lovely job Andy. I look forward to my daily fix. :-))
ken
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Thanks Ken
I think I should buy shares in Tamiya %%
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-TTMgKvD/0/c6bf3202/X2/IMG_2299-X2.jpg)
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Crane socket
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-b9p8dGN/0/ae822d49/XL/IMG_2306-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-6PzB9QS/0/03ea39a0/X2/IMG_2307-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-22mNpQd/0/4e49136b/X2/IMG_2305-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-sgh9nfv/0/a04b3914/X2/IMG_2301-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-KmLX4TW/0/9e51cfe0/X2/IMG_2303-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-ZTPLQK7/0/0cba8b47/X2/IMG_2302-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-V9wvnHc/0/de812865/X2/IMG_2304-X2.jpg)
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I don't think I'll bother making the grooves in the rubber.
I've just fitted this for real towing tomorrow. I'll fit a temporary rear fender
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-k56xsMQ/0/a1d2879b/X2/IMG_2311-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-Kg8zqNf/0/d27fb503/X2/IMG_2312-X2.jpg)
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I meant to say that I have foregone the satin lacquer as due to the low temperature the gloss dried to a satin finish :-))
I have some minor paint run in two place below the rubbing strakes so easy to sand out later and one coat of lacquer over the whole hull below the strakes so easy to mask and soften the waterline too
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https://www.facebook.com/Techno100/posts/10155607280272593
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Really looking forward to seeing her finished :-)) really nice work
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Really looking forward to seeing her finished :-)) really nice work
No one more than me thanks {-) but I also have a Smit Rotterdam to complete after this and before I start a Chipchase Maltby :-))
Today at Balne moor was very productive :-)) She sits in the water beautifully now I've added a big lump of lead near the stern. There isn't a huge amount of weight to add so I'm confident I can keep the twin 9AH batteries.
I've also pinned down a fault of my Spektrum DX6 shutting down without warning. It turned out to be a faulty Li battery that must have an internal connection fault as the voltage increases to over 20volts when in use. I identified this at home with the battery removed and a test meter. As it lies dormant the voltage gradually comes back down so it initially works again until under load. I now have the TX under duration test with another Li battery
Meanwhile I've now fitted a foam double sided tape ( non stick film left in place on face up) gasket for the main hatch, not to seal it but as a spacer to bring the hatch flush with the deck and it is spot on with the screws in :-))
I've also taken some height off the main towing lead.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-JZ9qV57/0/22ea9c06/X2/IMG_2325-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-gB82CHZ/0/283ca3b2/X2/IMG_2326-X2.jpg)
For scale effect
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-x74fpQ2/0/1f287d44/X2/IMG_2323-X2.jpg)
Next job is to remove that temp rear fender and fit the shelf for the correct diameter neoprene fender. This will also disguise the asymmetry of the stern as the holes I drill for the fender cable ties dictate the curvature and then I pack the cavity behind with smaller foam.
Unfortunately my work rate will slow down again as I'm supposed to be doing jobs on the house and I'm now on my last week off before going back to work. If I don't sort the house this week shell hang me by my rowlocks
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-BqxTcJW/1/2ea638f4/XL/DSC_0073-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-nKtFKBb/1/1eef246b/X2/DSC_0075-X2.jpg)
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So first I made a cardboard template
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-rSWfvwb/0/b2674403/X2/IMG_2327-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-QHT8d72/0/594fb2a6/X2/IMG_2328-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-9D8hFm9/0/624076f8/X2/IMG_2329-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-PZNtGGQ/0/b19aac81/X2/IMG_2330-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-zZ2xGHC/0/f8feb07a/XL/IMG_2331-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-hxfd6JH/0/82dff79d/XL/IMG_2332-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-P2RJTwD/0/a76f0835/XL/IMG_2333-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-9skD8X8/0/09c5ce54/X2/IMG_2334-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-QkG4Qbj/0/a02f5275/X2/IMG_2339-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-rWJ967m/0/771b4a30/X2/IMG_2336-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-Pwbw34K/0/1976318e/X2/IMG_2349-X2.jpg)
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So now I've roped the front winch in a nice 8 strand cotton. FYI my winches are fastened down with M3 socket screws. For this I drilled the deck 1mm and ran the m3 tap through. Nice and secure and easy to remove.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-6RrPB2z/0/39118cbb/X2/IMG_2347-X2.jpg)
Reverted back to plain stainless screws as the paint would not stay put.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-KN3d8vJ/0/1e664582/X2/IMG_2348-X2.jpg)
bow fender updated
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-xJ4836r/0/37adf669/X2/IMG_2337-X2.jpg)
Engine room hatch lid and access to receiver switch (Thank you Butts :-)) )
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-H3x47Pp/0/072b58cf/XL/IMG_2346-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth/i-mhR5X9x/0/c6b9e2d6/S/IMG_1295-S.jpg)
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Some very nice and tidy work being done here :-))
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Some very nice and tidy work being done here :-))
Thank you I enjoy your work too :-))
I bought a selection of moulded doors from mustang mark eBay.
They are not specifically correct but a bit of remodelling gets them a little nearer the MARK no pun intended, for my Portgarth.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-CKb7Nmn/0/3c562127/X2/IMG_2357-X2.jpg)
I also replaced the cast door handle with brass for strength.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-B2rXxnC/0/352ac7ac/X2/IMG_2359-X2.jpg)
The door is painted in Rover Arum White and I'm happy that this will be my colour of choice for the superstructure
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-TxFwhz2/0/330351ca/X2/IMG_2358-X2.jpg)
Engine hatch now painted and fitted.
I have made it specifically more robust as it will be handled frequently
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-JbJG9Jg/0/d2f8b08b/X2/IMG_2356-X2.jpg)
Portgarth letterset is OK IMHO
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-gLbfpPP/0/c23696e9/X2/IMG_2355-X2.jpg)
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The doors are really nice especially with the new handle.
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Is second that. Looks like you could right step through.
How did you do the lettering, if I may ask? I'm still gathering some options for my Imara.
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I ordered special requirements from this seller David, he will make to your sizes
https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/232477454515 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/232477454515)
My main ones are 12mm tall with minimum spacing
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Windows. No good just looking at em! time to do it.
So I drilled out a fair bit of material with my step drill before turning to the Dremmel
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-TdQQpsz/0/21babee0/XL/3C8C9AFE-D439-4999-9DDC-F54A5F3DF24D-XL.jpg)
They'll be finished off with a round file when I make the frames
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-nZHLB6d/0/874aafdd/XL/62761416-2129-4C5B-93AB-6EEFAF687B74-XL.jpg)
I've removed more matter from the top shelf frame to improve visibility
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-QWcVDhd/0/5a4e2150/XL/image-XL.jpg)
Unfortunately my cheap copy dremmel drum sanding mandrels are tom tit. So no more until I get some genuine ones :((
I've also soldered 4mm brass washers to the front mast legs. So no more levelling up.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-7x7DNH5/0/cb447887/XL/91A9375F-64BF-4318-841A-0EEC2FC75DDB-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-LxhQxd4/0/d0b4f4fb/XL/46F882E8-2673-44F8-B151-58EA048FB70B-XL.jpg)
Made the front below deck access hatch (artistic licence {-) )
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-XtbfhqM/0/c656ddce/XL/FC7148CB-C2D4-40F6-8D60-617FDBB10751-XL.jpg)
I'm going to York MBC open day tomorrow :-))
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Coming along nicely Andy, i do admire your work it is first class.
Stewart
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Coming along nicely Andy, i do admire your work it is first class.
Stewart
Thanks Stewart, not bad for a beginner :-)
Forgot. Rear fender fitted.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-xjhv54J/0/fd7b3e72/XL/IMG_2364-XL.jpg)
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Two coats of primer here over sanding sealer. Final coats will definitely look like steel :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-CsNPm5m/1/3619758b/X2/image-X2.jpg)
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Really taking shape Andy looking good O0 .
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Thanks John :-))
I was just typing this as you posted. I just had a look back at page one of the thread. Little did I know what I was in for {-)
So I started in March and progress has been a rollercoaster and I've come to understand that this is normal for the average builder.
Sometimes we get loads done and put many hurdles behind us and then we hit the doldrums of life getting in the way or a technical obstacle requiring help.
This last three weeks has been great and I think I finally have a grip on practical completion this year but with many additions or tweaks to keep me going next year.
I'm not sure yet that I'll light her up as I still live with the fact she can never be perfect so I'm drawn to starting the Maltby next and giving it all 8)
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Some times problems, sometimes money, sometimes enthusiasm, sometimes a stupid mistake, they all add time to a project O0 The window cutouts look very straight, I salute your accuracy. Regards the hatch, working vessels as well as military ones get changed and altered all the time, so a little artistic lisence isn't an evil.
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Some times problems, sometimes money, sometimes enthusiasm, sometimes a stupid mistake, they all add time to a project O0 The window cutouts look very straight, I salute your accuracy. Regards the hatch, working vessels as well as military ones get changed and altered all the time, so a little artistic lisence isn't an evil.
:-)) O0 Yes I made mistakes a plenty. When the enthusiasm is working there's just no stopping.
Re straight lines. I was on my knees with dremmel flexi drive and dust mask on.
I made the mistake of putting the wheel house roof on the wrong way around and I didn't notice until I came to put the mast on. A good job I wasn't gluing it on %% as it fits perfect either way {-)
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An hour per evening is my limit on work days now :((
First brass window frame fitted.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-PDnjJ37/0/d7210e7e/X2/A96239AE-7487-416A-B446-75316E5F4EC0-X2.jpg)
The funnels didn't have enough height or taper at the base by the time I'd got them ground off so they were perpendicular.
So I've built them up with ply, shaped as necessary and resin coated before final sanding. The MMM supplied castings are tapered on four sides but the Portgarth is only tapered on two of those.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-vsggL9L/1/2097205d/X2/913BD97E-BD6F-4032-9B13-B8BA718D3680-X2.jpg)
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Dremel sanding drums arrived so all the windows opened up for final finishing with files
Two down 27 to go %%
Tomorrow is the Friday of my week. We call it fake Friday {-) at our place
So I have All the real Friday on my own to build :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-zQRSdF4/0/1651973c/X2/4089DD44-10C0-40C9-8196-32C2AF19E41F-X2.jpg)
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Hi Andy,
Greetings from downunder.
What fantastic work you are doing! It's great to see. Thank you for sharing.
Now not sure I'll take mine out of the shed! :}
Cheers
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Andy,
What size is your lettering?
Thanks
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Andy,
What size is your lettering?
Thanks
Here Jeff :-))
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,57583.msg617310.html#msg617310
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Everywhere seems short if 1/8 brass strip :((
I’ve 20 on order with SMC back order :((
Only got 12” left so going to be stalled on windows
May have to start bulwark ribs over the weekend
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-fPKwCfB/0/0ff03bc4/X2/84C0A4B6-98D4-4440-9B22-149961076E3C-X2.jpg)
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Photos of todays effort.
All deckhouse windows done and masking up so I could spray sanding sealer on the rest of the sides and still be able to glue doors in place later.
Battery box knocked up
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-JMtxZxc/0/6e4893d7/X2/B5947A3F-0A1B-45BC-BCE7-E2FD2375219B-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-z97m4v6/0/e8d82c7c/X2/B48DCDBB-C5DE-4967-BC0F-41E31C554D3B-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-n9QSRGh/0/2b8a6ae2/X2/3FCB1AD4-0DF1-490B-8435-D6759C1C1A49-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-mZHmFXj/0/5b7a362c/X2/25B3FD82-EEDD-4E42-BEDB-2C059761DFE6-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-xC5WV9C/0/70da59d3/X2/9B764878-8672-4D08-8ACA-A2D2BAA10406-X2.jpg)
Forward deck hatch nearly complete
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-fJwh6JD/1/eb7ffdbc/X2/image-X2.jpg)
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The concept of using brass strip over plasticard is a great idea :-))....and produces an extremely tidy frame result
However just at a rough guess %) ...you have about 72 window corner bends to produce
Considering they all have the same corner radius, this would nearly warrant producing a small jig...with one fixed circular ring and one circular ring at an adjustable distance away ;D
Derek
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The radii of the smaller windows (wheelhouse roof) is smaller when I’ve finished them with a file and is equal to a pair of 6” pliers in my right hand and brass strip in my left {-)
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No need to drop onto ribs after all. Plenty to do on superstructure! I'm having a door day O0
Mark up and drill
Make and fit hinges
Sanding sealer
Rub down
Sanding sealer
Rub down
Primer
Fit dogs and porthole
Primer
Leave till tomorrow
Top coat Rover Arum White
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-WRhSjvg/0/cc6cd4e7/XL/8DFE5DDA-3E4B-4C83-885D-F09F34099D86-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-8GV9cLj/0/41c49843/X2/76364C0F-0B29-4F63-B92B-8EA9F7FF1D50-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-WPkFn7z/0/5178c3e3/X2/8C459C1A-B7B6-4A13-A117-F45EEB0D0038-X2.jpg)
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:-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-LLJDRWG/0/8afb68fd/XL/63A4DA76-9736-4CE2-B38D-98406D7E32BC-XL.jpg)
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Great progress today or so it feels
Just some very minor filling for perfection once the primer is hard.
Masking tape over all attachment points and I’m going to attach the forward deck hatch to the deckhouse so it lifts off together
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-MWPmBdq/0/723c2de5/X2/B6C8919F-22EF-4D55-9278-7E554ECE13FC-X2.jpg)
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I've been using brass tube for the hinges and to make sure they are all the same pin length I made the jig.
I picked up this tip on you tube to cut tube without crushing.
Just score heavily with a blade while rotating the brass then it will snap off clean with pliers placed near the score.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-j4vBLRX/0/d00d4462/X3/14847D7C-3753-4F4F-9D27-2D21E12539B0-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-WPkFn7z/0/5178c3e3/X2/8C459C1A-B7B6-4A13-A117-F45EEB0D0038-X2.jpg)
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Terrific work Andy. Thank you once again for sharing your build with us. As a beginner with many questions, I am finding it so helpful and inspiring.
Graham
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Terrific work Andy. Thank you once again for sharing your build with us. As a beginner with many questions, I am finding it so helpful and inspiring.
Graham
I only started this year Graham so very much a novice myself but I have worked with my hands all my life and served an engineering industry apprenticeship which stood me in good stead.
Unfortunately I've had to work many things out for myself here but the info I have received has been invaluable.
The more you do the easier it gets
:-))
Feel free to ask questions in the thread, if I can't help someone else might
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Getting a bit more adventurous I’ve started the RIB frame.
This is one of two main legs that everything emanates from.
A little oversized but won’t be noticeable with the smaller metals off it later the idea is that I’m aralditing two stub sleeves into the deck so the whole frame can be easily fitted and removed.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-bLtgg24/0/7a1fc4b5/X2/98C52CB3-CE6D-49D8-A960-B9A9B8F2872D-X2.jpg)
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It’s times like this that I wish I’d d used araldite rapid {-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-4gFFrLb/0/7e6bacbc/X2/4A02EF64-C6D6-4762-91F6-DCD729BD5CF5-X2.jpg)
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My little gem tonight that I thought of at work O0
I wanted a secure fixing for the funnels but also wanted them wireable, my solution is a 6mmx25mm long brass bolt that I drilled down the middle to facilitate wiring and easy removal. This has been a good idea :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-STMLc3n/0/688d9e65/X2/67A5A2CD-1414-4FE1-9C5A-B2AF8A7CAFC8-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-wHWBcgm/0/b10cfb15/X2/3CB38AD9-DA76-4010-B05B-15E821F41CB4-X2.jpg)
My partially constructed RIB frame
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-QMGPNkp/0/ae9a4a0b/X2/image-X2.jpg)
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Loose assembly for effect
Washers on frame legs are temporary
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-JQn8tj7/0/9f88c10b/X2/CE3CA379-468C-4FCA-9B47-9E198B1A301D-X2.jpg)
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I am enjoying the metalwork Andy. The RIB frame is especially intricate.
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Thanks Ian
I’m nearly there, just one more rail to fit and make a ladder.
Frame will have to be bonded to the legs as I cant risk soldering
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-xT4cbMv/0/011c447a/X2/image-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-W8cp8DQ/0/a786147f/X2/image-X2.jpg)
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The handrails around the deck house are slowing my progress as I’m loath to use the MMM ones.
I can’t top coat until the rails are fitted :((
Best product I can find that I believe to be suitable is these
https://www.alwayshobbies.com/model-boats/model-boat-fittings/brass-grab-rail-stanchions-5mm?utm_source=email&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Transactional (https://www.alwayshobbies.com/model-boats/model-boat-fittings/brass-grab-rail-stanchions-5mm?utm_source=email&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Transactional)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-XxNJCxB/0/30be9cd0/XL/4BEFC423-F0BC-469F-B023-ED686DF53031-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-mMLBpCX/0/069b5db2/XL/13DECD7B-8C51-477C-A19E-A1FDDB2EB86C-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-VH3DZfF/0/25681d8f/X2/8F159A3D-910F-43BA-9630-77C8677D2DAF-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-fDZfFRH/0/4e4ebbb1/X2/FFC5025C-1ECF-48AC-B373-2AA39C91623F-X2.jpg)
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Just caught up with this after spending some time away, some lovely looking work there Andy very neat and tidy this is another fantastic build from you
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Hi Paul its good to see you back. I hope you're going to build something soon :-))
I've been very busy today but not much boat building. I've got the blue done, just the Arum white to finish off.
For the stub sleeves I've hand painted with Tamiya blue, quite a close match. Notice the RIB frame is well off centre true to the actual vessel unlike MMM plans
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-GDCSpdM/0/02de8505/XL/6FA68539-28CB-4A07-8278-CA3DEF1474E9-XL.jpg)
These are like Hen's teeth or rocking horse doodoo
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-BhQPZWK/0/6d77c4e1/XL/E699CA43-A0A1-4715-AC85-0DF08AFAC85F-XL.jpg)
The reason I've been busy is that in order for me to gain more space I've had to upgrade wife's half {-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-wPzj6RV/0/92f55d72/XL/34E0C8D0-087A-416B-9A9B-2DEA73F6E594-XL.jpg)
Downturn at work means I have all next week free to build 8)
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Earning brownie points........good move....... :-))
Build is coming along nicely, class piece of brass work.
That's the bit I am dreading, that and all the stanchions!!!!!!
Stewart
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Earning brownie points........good move....... :-))
Build is coming along nicely, class piece of brass work.
That's the bit I am dreading, that and all the stanchions!!!!!!
Stewart
I never imagined in a million years that I'd have made that. It was one of a few jobs that I figured would be a hurdle but I gave it a go and I'm best pleased how it turned out. building on that experience I will be making the mast ladder too as the white metal ones are absolutely crap :((
BIG THANKS to Kevgarth for the photographs without them I'd be building rubbish {-)
THEY ARE ON PAGE 2 AND 3 here below. Much better than the very very poor pixelated images that MMM provide laminated. Why bother laminating LOW resolution images?
https://techno.smugmug.com/Portgarth/i-xvs5hwC
The hot iron gives terrific temperature control up to 480C and I managed to solder next to other solders by being quick and using different sized resin multicores. Its just as well to have too much solder and file off to a satisfactory shape than strive to be too neat.
I have the bits to do the handrails around the deckhouse now so I hope to complete this very soon and glue all the hatches/doors in place.
Re stanchions
I plan to borrow a technique of using a spare piece of ply to copy the fixing points of the deck so I can build and paint them off ship and simply slot in place later
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These are the one hole stanchions I’m using
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-tmjwQpG/0/35c2fa9a/XL/21F760B9-72FA-42F1-9685-22DAE68ED018-XL.jpg)
This is the almost finished heavily modified crane
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-Q6RSRLq/0/f838ec1a/X2/C4DBC8A2-CE64-4FEB-A243-C86D38E1B746-X2.jpg)
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Thanks Andy,
Unfortunately for me I won't be starting any new builds anytime soon <:( I've been working away in Tel-aviv commisioning the bearings on a coal fired power station on the mill side where they grind the coal to make it burn hotter, Anyway I've got to go back for another 3-4 weeks of work next week then I've got 3-4 weeks off before starting a contract on some ugly wind turbines off the coast of Newport Wales.
I have been thinking of buying a new kit so to have one ready when I get more time but I really don't know what to choose, I really like my Navy ships and I would like something along those lines but I'm not keen of starting something from scratch as my building skills are not upto that, but I would really like to build the New HMS Queen Elizibeth aircraft carrier {:-{ either that or another Tug I do like tugs
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Personally I think the more limited the skill base the bigger the scale required. I'd look at 1:24 1:16 1:12 options.
As soon as I experienced 1:32 I stopped building my Rotterdam 1:75 in favour of it.
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This is only £20 at IKEA. I already had LED lamps in stock. It's a no brainer for daylight light!
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-g85x4P6/0/978c8baa/X2/A6A93470-D1D8-4699-960C-C4AEFEA9EA60-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-CwtzGk7/0/0ce8acd6/X2/0B7E9761-0E29-47D4-9735-865C635AA205-X2.jpg)
EDIT
These are the lamps I bought 6 months ago, great for 10 units @ £15.99
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Pack-5W-GU10-LED-Cool-white-Replacement-for-Halogen-Bulb-Cool-White-5000K-/291757254117?hash=item43ee1665e5 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Pack-5W-GU10-LED-Cool-white-Replacement-for-Halogen-Bulb-Cool-White-5000K-/291757254117?hash=item43ee1665e5)
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Personally I think the more limited the skill base the bigger the scale required. I'd look at 1:24 1:16 1:12 options.
As soon as I experienced 1:32 I stopped building my Rotterdam 1:75 in favour of it.
Yes quite agree as you know I have the 1:75 Rotterdam which I like but I have to say some of it is damn fiddly, Something 1:24 or 1:16 would be ideal but I do struggle to find anything in those sizes
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My plan described earlier has worked :-))
First light enabled and it was easy to find the 4.5mm central hole first go with a 2mm bit.
I created a slot for the light itself.
Just a position lighting board to make and fit.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-4hZDCzK/0/49fd470f/XL/453E696E-6403-4E72-A582-722AB8C946F6-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-Lz68pG3/0/c15a8b45/XL/10FF78B3-339A-4340-84D3-E4A9BF2FFD5C-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-GB8vPG2/0/c3502e56/XL/319D57D2-E294-402C-8F79-8932DC3A6D39-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-83B97sH/0/1cf13c9b/XL/63EEEB6D-0F03-4A55-B15D-42D7B80E9B4A-XL.jpg)
EDIT
I'm also making a capstan as the MMM fitting is so small and out of scale that I've actually lost it anyway {-)
I'm sure most of these supplied fittings are nearer 1:48 scale, especially the stairs up to the wheelhouse! far too narrow.
If I was to build another there are many things I would have done differently in hide sight.
Any of you that haven't finished the decks yet I STRONGLY advise that you move the whole deckhouse forwards 10mm so the stairs don't land right at the edge of the for deck. This is WRONG but to MMM supplied plan
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-3/i-KmLX4TW/0/9e51cfe0/X2/IMG_2303-X2.jpg)
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Among many tasks today was fitting five more storage tubes. I leave them longer above deck now as they are good for standing sheets behind
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-bmtwbsh/0/00175439/X2/6E40E684-F995-4432-9E0F-FF099C16FD2F-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-wJgs7Jd/0/5c4e3169/X2/342BC985-F831-43EB-9F1A-8027B4DC177C-X2.jpg)
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Going to sea tomorrow.
Assembled for effect end of day shots.
New capstan base in place, drum ordered.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-PC4hw9W/0/fcff17a0/X2/BE33DC61-BEEC-449F-9817-753EF6ED2B8D-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-xrb3z2w/0/8fcc356d/X2/01CA1D27-2805-492E-A749-70A262624F9B-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-ChtGwWt/0/9132111d/X2/901DF1BA-0EED-4263-9730-CCB39B432C2E-X2.jpg)
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Last post today {-)
My organised chaos :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-SDR7P99/0/e5292ce9/X2/6AB377D7-2539-4D1D-9DAE-DECFC5E06AAE-X2.jpg)
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Re stanchions
I plan to borrow a technique of using a spare piece of ply to copy the fixing points of the deck so I can build and paint them off ship and simply slot in place later
Excellent idea for a technique! I will reborrow it, too 8) I've had nightmares about the soldering of all that brass wire.
Your build is a gold mine for hints and advice. I truly appreciate it.
Hande
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You call THAT chaos !?!
I must say, I like the detail on the desk %) glass of grape juice, surely?
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Thanks Hande
A nice Lidl Chianti :-)
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What is the hull up on the shelf ? Looks nice
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It's the hull originally made by Chipchase (Brian) and now sold by Tynemodelboats Svitzer Maltby
See this link :-))
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,36015.50.html (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,36015.50.html)
Brian is a God
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=36015.0;attach=110801;image)
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After being delayed here due to waiting for those 1 hole stanchions I have in the end decided that 1mm rod is too small to be realistic.
So having looked at Chipchase's work I concluded I'd try soldering my own supports to 1.6mm rod.
See I had numerous attempts at spacing {-) but decided on 30mm in the end.
So I drill 1.6mm holes for the start and finish and 1mm hole below the rail for smaller rod. Snipped off flush before soldering.
I'm using iron on 480 degrees for fast melting and fast flow solder from component shop.
I think the finished product will look much better.
Using 2mm brass to space off.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-xvB4D56/1/5425390d/X2/C8DC17EC-3B4E-4B42-A0C9-00B07D3E7060-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-f2Dsf57/0/1904f99b/X2/48DCC180-6AEA-417C-A2EB-89167E192FBF-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-MdJDcZB/0/44b89ca2/X2/C29A7157-A9A8-491A-BDB6-20D20C90C714-X2.jpg)
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A bit of fettling to finish but that worked well I think
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-JgfrPnn/0/a9ffe09a/X2/BD58619A-B26E-42B1-8B67-EA0B057E4B1E-X2.jpg)
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I don't know what "fettling" means... It must mean something like "working skillfully" :}
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Fettling is correcting and tweaking until happy
By unsoldering two pins I could remove the rail for cleaning up and clean the woodwork down too
I should be priming tomorrow :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-MQ3WVkh/0/b08f399d/X2/D5773391-8080-4FAB-98D1-B12DD02BDAF1-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-Nf4nZdN/0/075b49ce/X2/3D5E1D3B-E966-4D7E-A9EB-E28200141076-X2.jpg)
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Fettling........the wonder of the English language......lol
Keep fettling away Andy, you are doing a grand job, learning a lot from you........ :-))
Stewart
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Thanks Stewart
The word is actually derived from MMM in regard to the resin cast fittings
I think it’s meant to be a minor operation :-X
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Clark of works has given it the thumbs up :-))
{-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-gGdsc3J/0/99b1bad7/X2/2AB5709B-CA3F-45B2-B035-101695881112-X2.jpg)
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I understand you, I have been dissapointed with the quality of parts from them. Some do need far too much fettling for my liking.
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He’s not as enthusiastic about getting his 'bottom' down that hatch tho ;D
It’s made me realise that perhaps the handrail should have a break in it {:-{ doh!
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-gX6pFzT/0/342ec522/X2/5C081461-F4D9-4D69-A33B-7CE356A02469-X2.jpg)
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He says I’m not that fat! but he’s a happy chapy when I fix the handrail :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-KzSrQvL/0/4586c1a0/XL/A9B6F30F-A2DD-43EB-A1C5-766773BF2DD5-XL.jpg)
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Just a snippet as everything else is like paint drying {-)
A detail for adjacent the lower deckhouse door.
Not factually correct but believable I think
Fitting after painting will just require 2x0.8mm holes and a drop of CA
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-vN3Z2CG/1/7860f475/XL/FD55B733-D497-4BD5-AA50-D4E24AE32B16-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-6m7PrdT/1/ae4d856f/XL/579EAC79-D9D9-4AEC-B9CA-2909209029B7-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-z3jBvMk/1/d0fc9cff/XL/1E05C899-98CE-4527-B45C-38D57E4C80A9-XL.jpg)
Cannot fit the other one as MMM build plan is wrong and at this stage there is not enough space there
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth/i-8k86NKz/0/423d36c1/L/IMG_1309-L.jpg)
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One coat of Rover Arum white
I’m going to give it another coat after fitting the doors tomorrow
The rear wall has had two and looks very much better for it.
The handrail ends should really return to the wall but it would have been too difficult having already glued them in.
The forward hatch will be glued to the front wall.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-T8ncSPk/0/5dd3c3c8/X3/E3B26704-C930-4016-9E03-FD643A4F1A36-X3.jpg)
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Doors fitted but I dropped a couple and have chipped paint {:-{
Very pleased with the grab rail and overall appearance. Another coat tomorrow and then the roof deck to mask and paint.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-8nJQ42s/0/5f3e9dcc/X2/DD25FC51-32F0-4CA7-BB13-944252260CAA-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-hk9kcSC/0/588d626f/X2/BBD1B16E-D3A1-4A55-831A-49DB6DA28ADA-X2.jpg)
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Another snippet.
This is how I formed a new base for the capstan drum I've ordered.
Three Paxolin roundels from a 20mm thin wall hole saw. 6mm thick
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-6H7KpjR/0/ef25629d/L/80A05E61-8324-4421-A3E6-A1B466DF7528-L.jpg)
Bottom one countersunk for socket screw before CA joining up
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-r8qfTVR/0/7dfe0f7e/L/693AC56E-73F2-4D8B-A508-384C6333C35C-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-dmWsqLF/0/17c2fd7f/L/04BC469F-63D3-452C-BC05-8EAE632E4049-L.jpg)
Loosely in place awaiting drum. So far all my deck fixtures are easily removable
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-bpKcR4L/0/5a335d9a/L/DD25FC51-32F0-4CA7-BB13-944252260CAA-L.jpg)
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Nice, very nice indeed! :-))
You should weather/darken the bright white rope on your windlass, though. It's way too shiny :-)
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Nice, very nice indeed! :-))
You should weather/darken the bright white rope on your windlass, though. It's way too shiny :-)
Thank you
Yes I see your point but I think it will get grubby by itself the more it goes to sea :-))
Already the hull paintwork is showing signs of environmental effects
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Very nice detailed build but I worry about any damage that will inevitably occur if you decide to tow Featherstone at Balne. That was the reason that I stopped towing with my Foylegarth (I think its still on the website somewhere) bits kept getting knocked off and she was too nice a boat for that. Keep up the good work.
Cheers, Pete. {:-{
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Thank you Pete but she tows fine as there is nothing at the back to knock off. The town line it restricted so it cannot go beyond the port starboard bulwarks by a tether off the GOG :-))
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I decided I did not like the option supplied nor the prospect of close soldering LED's
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-m8SrN9t/0/6bd292f4/L/B2243454-FBA4-4122-B276-91149481EA22-L.jpg)
So I replaced the brass fitting with a pre made fitting by aeronaut that uses 6volt grain of wheat same as my floods :-))
I've fusion glued into the styrene mount I made instead.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-tPQxcWB/0/e135350d/L/650E290E-F0CB-434F-82C5-72283B3231A9-L.jpg)
Vent hatch covers made & fitted and grab handles too
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-KBfJL9c/0/bb14406b/L/image-L.jpg)
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I puzzled over how I would fit these post painting as I don't want to use glue.
I came up with this idea last night. I know the problems of soldering brass to white metal and wanted strength so I tried 1mm brass rod with 5 min epoxy .
This morning they were solid
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-XJ2Vt8Q/0/096c064b/XL/CFF35F4F-0C61-4E80-A73D-5093BD78EEAF-XL.jpg)
So all that is required after painting is 2 1mm holes to slide into.
Here a template for drilling.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-nwGpVqC/0/3d739922/XL/AF2A5004-32C6-419F-AE58-980C40B05637-XL.jpg)
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Happy :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-V5JCkZs/0/c9771b8d/XL/A14DEED8-E5DA-4F6D-9CBA-4D0B3241D672-XL.jpg)
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Been following without getting involved.
Lovely build and some magic Ideas.
But! Gow lamps need replacing at some time.
Leds are for life if you don't fry em.
Balne Moor is on my Bucket list O0
Ned
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Thank you Ned
I’m pretty confident that the GOW will be quite easy to replace if required. The wires slide through very easily.
To fit I just bob the light into the fitting and pull the slack of the wires through then hand paint what’s left showing (very little) The idea of the led stalks sticking down and having to solder them just didn’t appeal
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Thank you Pete but she tows fine as there is nothing at the back to knock off. The town line it restricted so it cannot go beyond the port starboard bulwarks by a tether off the GOG :-))
Another bonus it that I’ve made all deck fittings easy to remove so no problem if anything ever looks to be at risk
Thanks again :-)
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I puzzled over how I would fit these post painting as I don't want to use glue.
I came up with this idea last night. I know the problems of soldering brass to white metal and wanted strength so I tried 1mm brass rod with 5 min epoxy .
This morning they were solid
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-XJ2Vt8Q/0/096c064b/XL/CFF35F4F-0C61-4E80-A73D-5093BD78EEAF-XL.jpg)
So all that is required after painting is 2 1mm holes to slide into.
Here a template for drilling.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-nwGpVqC/0/3d739922/XL/AF2A5004-32C6-419F-AE58-980C40B05637-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-Gh2mz97/0/82d9ec06/XL/437A8351-AA8D-405A-BADB-22BF8C181ADB-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-tngJQq3/0/2d908a85/XL/8ADD17EA-6AE7-49EA-8B72-5B072823EC3C-XL.jpg)
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Better get some handrails in their son!
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-zCLvhBD/0/87297456/X3/4893D984-63BF-46A1-B1ED-982F8B19C95D-X3.jpg)
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Meeting ensues
It’s gonna be a bit tight here captn %%
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-6JvBBF7/0/8a1c91e8/X3/91A1A7F9-A692-4751-B0EC-87EB508D2F09-X3.jpg)
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{-) {-) Andy you make me laugh with your little "scenes" you keep doing it's like we all waiting for the next episode lmao!!
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{-) {-) Andy you make me laugh with your little "scenes" you keep doing it's like we all waiting for the next episode lmao!!
Believe me I'm chuckling too {-)
Fortunately I got 3 from Leeds model shop @ £4.99 each :-)) Extortionate on eBay
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Your not wrong they are expensive on there!! are they the Preiser one's? they are nice though
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Graupner
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Ah that explains the price then, but top quality and worth paying for :-))
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There’s always a feckin hair in the paint >>:-( {-) it’ll do
Starting the roof colour tomorrow
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-cxCVz3s/0/f24d4366/X3/933DD87F-6B3F-4649-8505-1E936504E483-X3.jpg)
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Thank you Ned
I’m pretty confident that the GOW will be quite easy to replace if required. The wires slide through very easily.
To fit I just bob the light into the fitting and pull the slack of the wires through then hand paint what’s left showing (very little) The idea of the led stalks sticking down and having to solder them just didn’t appeal
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-xXDLcPr/0/2bde89dc/XL/F61C5EBB-4691-4068-8F8A-6D2EFBFF3684-XL.jpg)
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I will have a similar pondering ahead of me. I have hesitated with lighting so far...
But looking at your portside light it simply looks so good! I'm certain to install lights, now.
I don't remember, what gow stands for, but if it is so bright in light, isn't it going to be very bright in dark? It may be a thing with the camera/photo that makes it seem brighter than in reality?
Otherwise - can you dim a gow with a resistor?
Hande
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I will have a similar pondering ahead of me. I have hesitated with lighting so far...
But looking at your portside light it simply looks so good! I'm certain to install lights, now.
I don't remember, what gow stands for, but if it is so bright in light, isn't it going to be very bright in dark? It may be a thing with the camera/photo that makes it seem brighter than in reality?
Otherwise - can you dim a gow with a resistor?
Hande
GOW= grain of wheat :-))
Mine are 6 volt. The brightness can be reduced by reducing the voltage.
I have a component shop voltage regulator for such a purpose. It maintains the selected output voltage regardless of the variance in the supply voltage. So I can run them off my 12 volt batteries that may start out at 14 volts and drop to 10 to less but maintain the output chosen
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:-))
£4.95 http://www.componentshop.co.uk/power-supplies.html
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-MLpfR3G/0/8e1ee967/X2/BE646211-E860-48E3-AD6D-DC3C555935C7-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-tXk7v7X/0/9f06aa24/X2/561096E1-3905-4A27-9A50-66DB19AC9719-X2.jpg)
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As I recently converted my build stand into a transporter I spent this afternoon making a display/storage stand from a £19 piece of Oak board from B&Q
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-q7FGkRJ/0/c60de588/X2/1C76818C-FE3C-47B9-80A6-E14AB28361B5-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-qjd9bnW/0/594a07ac/X2/DD31F75E-CE04-49B7-B578-A8FC9B564E71-X2.jpg)
This will now fit on a IKEA Lack shelf. and gives me more worktop space
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-38N3zt7/0/8faf0066/X2/694405B4-F10F-466D-8A54-15A3A6F382B4-X2.jpg)
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Not a day for paint spraying :(( so after a big bout of tidying up I started making the mast ladder.
Two strips of 1/64 X 1/8 flat bar and 0.8mm rod
Tools
Slow drill
0.8mm bit
Centre punch
Scriber or knife
Wood for spacer
Pincers
To get to this stage has taken an hour
Ready for soldering
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-Db8jH7Z/0/43f35043/XL/D46EAE7C-42BE-4E2B-BAAD-38A98882EF25-XL.jpg)
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So now I’ve soldered all the bottom row and turned the ladder over inserting all the rungs into the same drilling’s in the worktop saver.
Then inserted my wooden spacer and tapped all the rungs down so I have parallel sides
Here ready for next row of solders
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-rPDb55h/0/c51a8481/X2/CE40E56B-AAC5-4389-AED1-D4FA41478703-X2.jpg)
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Not a day for paint spraying :(( so after a big bout of tidying up I started making the mast ladder.
Two strips of 1/64 X 1/8 flat bar and 0.8mm rod
Tools
Slow drill
0.8mm bit
Centre punch
Scriber or knife
Wood for spacer
Pincers
To get to this stage has taken an hour
Ready for soldering
A _graphic_ report of a work stage :} :-))
It seems your build advances like a dance!
The transporter makes me think of the task of transporting from several new view angles.
And the stand is a number in its own right. I haven't seen one with provisions for the shafts, if I got it right. supporting the hull further aft than others that I've seen. Won't work for the Neddie ( the keel goes beyond kort funnels ) or I would need three U slits.
I'm enjoying your build a hundred :}
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Thank you :-))
I think at times it helps to chop and change ones focus or direction and just do whatever keeps you motivated
No matter how we do it it all adds to the sum total of the work to do
I have some special oil for the Oak on order that will retain the natural finish
http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-polyx-oil-raw-3044 (http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-polyx-oil-raw-3044)
Also some self adhesive felt from Germany for the contact surfaces
Edit
Had I been aware of schottel drives at the outset I would not need any slots {-)
However I am very pleased with the MMM oversized super smooth shafts :-))
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He’s happy
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-ZgqdHH4/0/e8836f9a/X2/FE6AE6C3-F194-425A-9E22-FC4833900428-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-p2fCZjt/0/fb086429/X2/06327042-6FC3-4F64-B68B-FDC8867D5991-X2.jpg)
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Ground to a halt due to completely exhausting my stock of brass {:-{
Lucky I'm going to Blackpool %% I hope someone has some .
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-cpbqFPz/0/be443b29/X2/A56C4B27-DFF3-4586-ADCA-36440D910F41-X2.jpg)
A funny tale. I posted pics on Facebook and my cheeky daughter tagged the figure with my name and said what lovely overalls I have {-) Being a little bloke it seemed quite appropriate %%
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-Km2cZGq/0/1813d6f2/XL/06327042-6FC3-4F64-B68B-FDC8867D5991-XL.jpg)
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Very neat! I envy your minutely work. O0
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Thank you Tafel :-))
So on to another job.
I thought time to give the ribs a go.
On my PROXXON circular saw table {-) I cut some mahogany spacers to ensure the ribs are vertical etc.
Each rib carefully shaped for maximum possible contact area for glue.
Starting from the centre rear and alternating side to side.
No where near as difficult as I perceived :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-sKLRRdX/0/c8ca4dcd/XL/8362E0E3-1620-4E44-B304-CD2C3CB38B81-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-zvVP8Th/0/06499a6b/XL/CF73A056-9D49-4FAD-B16D-E669CC48DA56-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-HkdrWFT/0/00c919fc/XL/ABEAD2D5-941D-4AD9-BA12-182301FB56E2-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-PKxZ4wv/0/8c687014/XL/09A8893B-F52C-4FB0-966B-F05BF0CCF1EB-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-pJdbwdc/0/163075c8/XL/F34C04E5-B277-4130-8374-235C64AFC05A-XL.jpg)
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In anticipation of the paint job,
Do you brush or airbrush?
I have a terrible fear of brush-painting. I don't seem to get a smooth finish - no matter what :((
I invested a lot in my airbrush skills (and equipment) - being inadequate to say the least - because of the promise of a smooth finish.
Hande
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Rattle cans
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Oh yes - those...
I made my hobby shop keeper rich by painting the hull of my Neddie with Tamiya ones.
Lovely finish, I must say.
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Andy,
Seeing as you are using a lot of brass at the moment I just come across this website and there prices seem pretty reasonable http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/34.html (http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/34.html) might come in useful to you :-))
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Useful yes thanks Paul . Seems they do brass strip in 200mm lengths. What a stupid length that is and very restrictive.
I think I should start a list for tomorrow at Blackpool 8)
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I’m really enjoying this and how it suddenly transforms the look :-)
I’ve decided to go with hand painting after all(Hande :-)) ) It will save days if masking up and when done I’ll re lacquer over deck and bulwarks at once.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-cKCv6H6/0/1ea40b96/XL/EF57DC28-EA8A-4BEF-AE51-7BBBC699CD55-XL.jpg)
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Over a quarter done now just the Samson posts to make & fit (not sure how yet)
Already moved to the bow centre and working back.
I have attempted to replicate the photographs donated by Kevin "Kevgarth" but it is realistically impossible due to the grp moulding being so wrong. However I'm happy that it is realistically believable
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-pRmgtwB/0/7f990454/X2/4E34F58B-2032-4D7D-8180-25110B990679-X2.jpg)
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A bit of a slowdown this week as I’m working :(( and fighting swollen glands too :((
So a little update
The deckhouse caused delays in finishing due to cold weather and paint contamination due to the poor environment I have to work in
So the roof is now smooth and awaiting matt lacquer, top step edges yellowed ready.
When the roof deck is done I then need to mask it off and re finish the Arum white due to masking tape issues/impression. The lacquer does not seem to suffer from Tamiya infection :-)) so it should be ok
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-nJdx25K/0/4bdbba75/X2/3F6700B6-DF11-48F5-BCB1-005E54E2098D-X2.jpg)
I have limited time in the evening so just batting away a rib at a time front and rear
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-wVGMrdf/0/4992ebea/X2/A3194802-2031-46D0-B1E9-DE8D587EA5D5-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-ndBbJ3F/0/240cd12d/X2/7D15029E-E440-4485-A884-00BA2CE83682-X2.jpg)
I found that MMM capstan drum,what a joke and even the one I made is still undersize so now on a final version.
Basically the top of the motor unit or bottom of the capstan drum should be level with the top of the bulwark which is logical and anything else just seems nonesense
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-L5nwrS4/0/508cb638/X2/94A5D12A-5326-406B-9B4D-6A43341852F5-X2.jpg)
Edit
The felt arrived yesterday from Germany
Postage is the killer so I ordered plenty in different widths and thickness for future
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-qhRfb2Z/0/0cf8aec9/XL/735114E5-4731-42EA-BEE2-09195333A8E2-XL.jpg)
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The example on the right is a Billings stanchion from Cornwall models @40p each
I have chosen these in preference to the horrible white metal ones and the mounting stabs are all a uniform size which makes it better for assembling off site on a spare piece of ply and subsequent fitting on decks
I can solder these to my hearts content with no fear of them dissolving.
I haven't actually counted how many required but I ordered 30 as ample
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-CPL95qt/0/5af77105/XL/72A8B078-7AC4-4E02-804A-C9EAD7C22709-XL.jpg)
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Coming along nicely. I know what you mean about the brass stanchions, I need around 300 for my current build, no way will my bank account stand for that kind of hit for bits of brass.
Is there anything on this page that would be of use?....
http://www.scalelink.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000002.pl?WD=railings&PN=Marine___Marin%2ehtml#aSLMF19
just scroll down for the different scales.
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Thanks Brian
To be honest the website is so awful it puts me right off looking. Is that the normal view?
40p was really cheap considering sellers on eBay aim for £15 for 10 >>:-(
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I believe this to be a more appropriate size and I’ve assimilated the access cover .
Further to the billings stanchions. I just got two packets of 10 off eBay at £3.09 each delivered O0
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-s8Wc22J/0/20f7bad6/XL/715F4662-5452-4961-9B43-190C5A1E4344-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-xH8fcRz/0/667648fb/XL/EE333A0D-F3D6-40C4-BF83-9FEA8635BC55-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-hZG82cZ/0/99386439/XL/55DFF826-AE3E-4555-8605-79FC477E9D19-XL.jpg)
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much better size, have to admit seeing that the other would have looked completely wrong, well done Andy it's coming along a treat!! When are you getting your lifeboat? hope it's not too soon you've still got to finish building your Rotterdam O0
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Thanks Paul.
Before Xmas :-)) I don't envisage being more than 3 months as it's more a precision kit than a bundle of wood {-)
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Yes they are a fantastic kit I'm pretty envious :-) something to look forward too in a few years, I've been thinking of buying a Linkspan p&o ferry kit again a lovely well put together kit and Dave who designed them is on here so I'm sure the advise would be handy ;)
Looking forward to you finishing your Rotterdam though, If you don't finish it I might have to come rescue it {-)
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When I look back at the gallery and having endured so much a learned new things building this Portgarth I don't think she'll take so long to complete when I resume :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-pbbTVn8/0/09fd2cd5/X2/IMG_0584-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-HgRgSKb/0/c13c2aab/X2/IMG_0585-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-X5BRzjB/0/15a7cef6/X2/IMG_0730-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-N2HswjM/0/fcbeaf68/X2/IMG_0650-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-M6Xgfh5/0/658788c2/X2/IMG_0711-X2.jpg)
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Very nice it will be lovely once done, mind you so will your Portgarth
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Thanks
Actually I’ve only spent about 10 weeks to get the Rotty where it’s at compared to over 7 months on this
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that's pretty good 10 weeks to that stage I recon another 8-10 weeks you'll have it finished at that rate
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Yes about right. The plank on frame was the longest job.
BTW in preparation for the possibility of Porty having a heavy Bow I've bought a 5000Mah Lipo to test and if the electrics are happy I can fit four in place of the two 9Ah PB
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Have to say I don't like lipo batteries I used 4s 5s & 6s packs for racing my RC 1/8th cars and I've had a few catch fire on me and one went up in my hand all where the hard cased ones which are supposed to be better, it's was probably because they was being banged around, crashed so got internally damaged but it's put me off them and as boats need weight and scale boats don't need speed I'm happy to stay as far from them as possible, how many hours would you get it you moved everything around and just used 1 x 12v 9ah battery?
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I’m not concerned as my current draw will by 5amp max on each motor so no heat :-))
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Just watch for the packs puffing up if there is any sign of bulging throw them away :-))
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Steady progress. A few detail shots for you builders.
Bow so far
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-Gn3FGNx/0/d1b35e8d/X2/0272273D-6980-4FF3-A787-C91DE0B36EF4-X2.jpg)
Stern
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-54LDSFn/0/778a021e/X2/2FC0C3BB-90C9-4775-9F7A-5A5FEA9E0981-X2.jpg)
Third version of capstan with other deck fittings for effect
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-gLJsQcr/0/0746ea08/X2/DC39E65A-5B0A-4732-B5FA-7B26650BC395-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-mbZMGXv/0/5e197dd6/X2/78DF51CB-ABA5-4351-BD6A-018E7DCEBA5E-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-NVh5Dqb/0/18b2a81b/X2/F73AC5C4-0580-4AE4-85EA-C81652AE2F9D-X2.jpg)
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Seems never ending but only 18 ribs to go on foredeck and Samson’s
I think nothing spoils a model as much as skimping on ribs so the effort is important to me
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-bnsFdB8/0/43a409c8/X3/570720E7-CC8E-42CF-8B82-CD081EB5EB41-X3.jpg)
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Chief says I’ve got to stop dropping him on the laminate floor as the superglue is making his neck itch :embarrassed:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-D5TD8P6/0/972ef2fa/X2/20C480F1-79E8-413B-910E-9D88CCCF3E70-X2.jpg)
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Starboard complete :-)) 7 ribs to go
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-67P9TxC/0/cb25cfae/X3/424A75E6-A1FC-43A6-98C3-BA6FDB7CDB04-X3.jpg)
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A shot of my final bow detail of cross braces. These reflect the fender shelves.
Free license for plausibility
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-ZHjSSZF/0/aacca25f/L/C1424711-4065-40AC-BC6D-F3A7A38F20F9-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-85QScSZ/0/c3b5bc60/L/72996376-94A2-486C-9CD7-8746D8C2CB05-L.jpg)
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This is my purchase for painting them. I will of course use more suitable brushes as needed
https://vod.ebay.co.uk/vod/FetchOrderDetails?itemid=370876070492&transid=975033631024&qu=1&ul_noapp=true
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Work recommenced on the superstructure which needs quite a bit of attention due to Tamiya lurgy
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-pNbk94N/0/006e0b42/X2/C67F5755-D5CA-474F-B081-4395BEB6ACFE-X2.jpg)
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My first LiPo arrived :-)) I will order three more as they will be ideal for the Shannon me thinks.
BIG BIG question of LiPo experts! How do you know how much you can discharge these batteries. What do you do and how do you know when to stop . Is telemetry involved and if so how fanks :kiss:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-wbhVK27/0/ce339c39/XL/846C2396-719C-4A38-8537-1294EACB9057-XL.jpg)
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Seems I can rig my ship with telemetry :-)) Spectrum DX6 has telemetry which requires a module to report main battery voltage. A TM1100 looks favourite.
This is purely to avoid damaging the batteries by over discharge. However the battery does not state what the safe voltage level is.
Assuming the Spektrum defaults for LiPo cells are generic this will illuminate the answer to my question when set to 4S
Do I really need this or is it safe to just watch for a noticeable slow down? or is that already too late
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Further digging reveals a better all in one option
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spektrum-AR6600T-6-Channel-Air-Integrated-Telemetry-Receiver-SPMAR6600T-/253149560617?_trksid=p2349526.m2548.l4275
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Works great and easily fit four. Look at that 8) paxolin O0
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-c2GDd3k/0/ece6e254/X2/DCEA36F7-1846-4EFA-90C2-71E7CB242592-X2.jpg)
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Normally the LiPo voltage protection is done by the esc. You need a LiPo compatable esc as this has the voltage detection built in and will stop power to the motor when it reaches the minimum. If the esc is not set up for LiPos then you can buy a battery checker which plugs into the balance leads. You get one with Leds and a buzzer for the alarm to tell you to stop using the battery.
Jim
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Thank you Jim but my ESC is an action electronics p94 mixer 6 to 24 volt rated that I don’t intended to change
I’ve just ordered the telemetry enable receiver :-))
Edit if your method cuts power to the motor then surely the boat will be adrift
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Edit if your method cuts power to the motor then surely the boat will be adrift
Under power the voltage from the battery will drop below its resting voltage. Once the cut off works and the battery is left for a couple of minutes it will partially recover enough voltage for the esc to work again. The boat can then be brought back under low power.
Jim
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Ahh thanks that makes sense :-))
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I found this extremely well written guide with all you want to/need to know about LiPos
This also covers Low voltage cut out on some ESC's as Jim has kindly informed above :-))
Safe discharge voltage is 3volts per cell BTW
https://rogershobbycenter.com/lipoguide/
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I'm happy now. This receiver arrived very quickly from Leeds Model Shop. I bought the last one in stock :-)
Transmitter now set for telemetry and 4s LiPo so 17 volt max 12 volt min with 60 second reports at 12 volts or less.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-57fZgGX/0/c892b12c/X3/75CF96DF-1209-4C56-92D2-356381471CCA-X3.jpg)
Now bound and tested connected to a 7.4 pack which immediately voice alerts 7.4 :-))
Great piece of kit with a bind button to save messing with plugs and a remote extension receiver too .
This also monitors receiver voltage as it is and can measure RPM plus temperature with extra leads
Since buying two batteries I've found much cheaper from eBay hobbyking. at leat £8 less per battery delivered.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Turnigy-5000mAh-4S1P-14-8v-20C-Hardcase-Pack/131573104355?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160727114228%26meid%3Dd61b5b7557bd4163b41e129359132834%26pid%3D100290%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D4%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D391314963395&_trksid=p2060778.c100290.m3507
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-2HpJggG/0/ae21a23d/X3/957F39CD-7AD9-42CC-AABC-57B7CCB8E6EF-X3.jpg)
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Modify time is far too short.
So another bit of info......
2 of these 5000mah LiPo weigh 1020grams
1X 9AH pb weighs 2574grams
So using four Lipo reduces weight by 3 kg approx
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WARNING!
This AR6600T receiver is not liked at all by my Action electronics. The P94 mixer was erratic and thinking it was faulty I fitted a new spare. The same problem persisted so I swapped back to my original receiver and all is now OK again.
Also for some reason the rudder channel does not activate/react to the stick to operate my bow thruster AE P93
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Thanks again JimG
I bought these
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5X-RC-Lipo-Battery-Low-Voltage-Tester-1S-8S-Buzzer-Alarm-Checker-LED-Indicator/332301526843?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
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Thanks again JimG
I bought these
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5X-RC-Lipo-Battery-Low-Voltage-Tester-1S-8S-Buzzer-Alarm-Checker-LED-Indicator/332301526843?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5X-RC-Lipo-Battery-Low-Voltage-Tester-1S-8S-Buzzer-Alarm-Checker-LED-Indicator/332301526843?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)
Exactly what I used to use for RC car racing excellent low cost but do the job very reliably :-))
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Cool :-)) receiver won't be wasted I'm sure it will suit the Shannon although as yet I've no idea what ESC's I'll need %%
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no I've no idea, I do like the idea of the Shannon, I had a 37ft sports cruiser years ago with twin Hamilton jet drives so know quite a lot about jet drives and to say I was very impressed with them was an understatement, but I had to sell to buy a house :(( but really looking forward to your Shannon build
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I didn't want something that would have no strength or be repeatedly dislodged. The bulwark is not strong enough with the small point of contact. So......
I chose two brass tubes of a size that suited my eye that fit each other.
The thinner tube I fitted through the deck down to the hull. This is fixed with fusion adhesive.
I used set squares to ensure perpendicular.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-FBCMH3F/0/e253683d/XL/345444F1-F477-4E1F-8B50-2B0D86A75B7A-XL.jpg)
The second tube I have cut to a height and bunged one end with beech dowel and sanded off. Drilled a 2mm hole for the brass peg. Used 2mm styrene for the securing plate that will not need to be glued to the gunnel. So it is demountable for painting or whatever else.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-g9xcDbm/0/1bd3abb1/XL/9BB1781C-0FEF-40C2-97A8-DB6C256B0E3E-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-5vqSvrh/0/cdc7f5d2/XL/6E793D86-D8E1-4443-A773-DAA3A843290D-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-xxQ7Lhv/0/80e90d0b/XL/BAB4728B-6638-451D-BD9F-893A8E000D30-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-rsT9fQS/0/a5b07b0e/X2/72CFE932-25BB-477D-A401-5AA3D352B28D-X2.jpg)
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Fantastic! :-))
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Thank you :-))
It's a very long road is it not :o
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-PdwxjRJ/0/X2/IMG_0784-X2.jpg)
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Yes, long indeed, and very winding in places O0
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Worth taking your time Andy seeing the results so far and if the rest turns out anything of the same quality as the stuff you have already produced it's more than worthwhile waiting for :-))
And just think you got to get some practice in before you start on that fabulous Shannon build O0
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Apparently the Shannon is designed to be as easy to build as an Airfix kit. That is straight from the horses mouth {-) Adrian
The Maltby will exercise all my acquired knowledge :-))
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Ah The Maltby a boat I've read a lot about but yet to ever see one :(( and unsure exactly what it looks like but I think it's looks a little like the Portgarth?
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Ah The Maltby a boat I've read a lot about but yet to ever see one :(( and unsure exactly what it looks like but I think it's looks a little like the Portgarth?
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,36015.0.html (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,36015.0.html)
(http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=36015.0;attach=107041;image)
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Yeah that is the one I was thinking of, but I think it's looks an easier build than the Portgarth (maybe wrong) just doesn't look as complicated but looks can be deceiving, whatever though I'm sure you will make a grand job of it
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That isn't the finished tug and its very much more complicated and considerably bigger and extremely heavy
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Svitzer-Maltby/i-dt77R5q/0/c6261f0d/XL/IMG_2190-XL.jpg)
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blimy that's a pretty big beast :-)) I like the look of the x-bow ships but a bit above my skill set at the moment to do one justice want a few smaller ones to practice on, although the bigger you get the less fiddly things get which is good for me as I've got hands like shovels
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Think its big wait until you see how much ballast it takes to get the waterline right! I have cut and chopped mine removing 3 inches from the middle section and it still takes a 12v 14ah battery plus a full roll of 6 inch lead flashing which I have made into a removable block for convenience. She is not built as the original but completely different with my own design, purpose built for towing at Balne next year.
Good luck though I'm not sure where you find the time to build them all.
Cheers, Pete.
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That's great news Pete :-)) . It will be good to see both yours and Andy's boats at the pond at Balne Moor going through their paces.
I've stopped building "double hernia class" boats these days, but don't forget, to avoid nil points for a duff forward roll into
the pond we now have the heavy boat launch :}
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I tried lifting the one Nicholas bought of Clifford {-)
My intention is to make ballast tanks that I can fill with pond water and a large pump to evacuate it when I want to lift it out
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Hi Mike (say hello to Tess from me),
Great news about the boat launcher it may save the glass back Ha! I'm looking forward to coming over its going to be very interesting as this baby has Shottles and a bow thruster. L plates required I think.
Kind regards, Pete.
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Hi Andy,
What are the dimensions of the Maltby and that will be a very nice model to follow on from your Portgarth build.
Regards
Ant
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Hi Andy,
What are the dimensions of the Maltby and that will be a very nice model to follow on from your Portgarth build.
Regards
Ant
3” longer than Pete’s {-)
Not had a tape on it but that’s a two seater bench
I doubt you could get one if you wanted to as Les is too busy
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That's a good idea Andy. Two of the tows at Balne Moor have that type of ballast arrangement.
One fills naturally as it sinks into the pond (unlikely for you), the other has an on board ballast pump.
Will do Pete.
My latest build is also schottel driven, but it is a tractor tug, so L plates are also likely :embarrassed:
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Thanks Andy, and I'm not after one :D... I was just wondering how it compared to the hull I have of a Damen 3110 which is lurking under the bench. It's 47 inch or there about and I think I'd need to become a weight lifter if I ever finish it {-).
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Hi Stumps,
As I recall (I'm not in my shed too cold) she was approx. 39 and 3/4 inches long and approx. 13 and 1/2 inches wide, she only just went into my car boot crossways. When she is complete I will get Poll to put some pics on.
Cheers, Pete.
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A little progress
Port side is now ready to complete the painting of the bulwarks&ribs
Not sure if I mentioned I’m using Holts Arum White touch up which I believe to be cellulose. It leaves the styrene looking rather realistic (steely) despite brush marks.
The intention is to lacquer over the lot when I’ve retouched the deck.
Already tested Halfords acrylic over the touch up without issue.
The Samson post fits nicely in the foreground
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-GjhCK4N/0/3fbd65c6/X2/60202853-7547-4D60-A251-F18A697BBBF2-X2.jpg)
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Today I managed to recover the situation of the Tamiya tape impression. A fine sanding and Satin lacquer
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-ZMbCwSC/0/22484e05/X2/D21A34C1-B409-4EEE-BEED-7A4061AE9DD0-X2.jpg)
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I’ve started acquiring toys for the boys :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-jK9PhVb/0/ce46eefe/XL/CECF6CF6-1784-4EC7-A370-34004D7ECFE3-XL.jpg)
They ran over like kids at Christmas {-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-vj2KnVr/0/39356592/XL/D612A125-9FD9-4281-916A-0169E90D45A8-XL.jpg)
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Mmmmm liquorice polo always said it was a missed opportunity
Sorry I'll get my coat but great build
Colin
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{-)
Thanks Colin
Going back again to telemetry
Not to be outdone! I knew my Spektrum AR600 to be data compatible so as a last ditch attempt I bought the TM1100 and this is a success O0
The action electronics are happy and as this comes with a temperature sensor that can be placed up front
The TM1100 can be just sticky backed to the receiver
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-VWSxJCk/0/5585a81a/X2/A9AE0A65-AF76-44AE-A586-8A0488401331-X2.jpg)
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Update
All bulwarks now painted, just a bit of touching up of the deck and gunwales to be followed by a Satin lacquer over the lot if the weather ever warms up.
Fitted the other Samson post support tube.
I got immense satisfaction coming up with a way to do the engine hatch protection bars.
I used brass tube with brass wire inside to prevent it flattening on bending.
My deck is really thick at the drilling points as it is underpinned with the deck hatch shelf of paxolin. So I was able to drill deep but without going through.
So when glued in place there'll be no need to glue to the gunwales just like the Samson posts.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-7NHf4NW/0/69f4d468/X2/ADA19622-DAA5-4297-88E5-94E91D612389-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-3pmncpn/0/7a345637/X2/6D7DC59B-4FD5-4E3C-A9E5-E3679827EAC3-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-L5WFgP6/0/0f9395f5/X2/033C94C3-35E0-427B-B4DA-8BCBBFAAC1E5-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-VTrGmz6/0/a3f66196/X2/F54CE28A-0F45-40E2-B0F5-DF3ABF2121AB-X2.jpg)
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New glue to me first use.
I bought this for the wheelhouse glazing but more immediately I needed something that will stick paint to paint and this worked a treat for my plastic grating to brass frame
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-b98kGcb/0/736b2dc6/X2/F50CC711-0804-434E-9B93-80616B73C218-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-3gx6fwc/0/9de4385c/XL/B843D288-FF84-4D23-B8C6-B01636163773-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-RpZ4RMZ/0/6ebc41e7/XL/04B93FF3-18F0-4F9E-96BA-9A6536E5AC4D-XL.jpg)
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Hi Andy,
Awesome build - thanks for sharing.
Where did you get your logo/lettering from?
I have built my PORTGARTH with help from Fastfaz - nothing like the standard of your. I think I must have looking the other way when they handed out the skill set! 😄
Thanks
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Hi Jeff thank you
The Svitzer spinning prop is marketed by becc decals
The lettering was from a UK eBay seller but members in here know of much better sources for custom lettering I think
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/becc_company_logos.html (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/becc_company_logos.html)
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I thought I’d brush paint these seeing as I’ve seen everyone else has {-)
WTF are they ? %% I’m guessing they’re something sacrificial in the corrosion dept perhaps
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-h2MchQJ/0/e7ce6f2a/XL/70534198-C244-4FFA-953F-FC4CFFB93905-XL.jpg)
EDIT Too late! google wins
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode)
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You are correct...........Anodes..........Aluminium or Zinc I think.
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You are correct...........Anodes..........Aluminium or Zinc I think.
:-))
Good news or bad news depending on points of view.
I finished work today due to a downturn until January 8)
So mucho more time hobbying :-)
My outdoor spray shop is nearly ready and extract fan/ducting on its way. I'm going to add a halogen light in there to direct additional heat at the subject as well as light.
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Just need the halogen lights and I'm in business :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-Ldjjn4j/0/efe0d4bb/X2/108BAF0C-39D5-471D-A193-ACF605C19823-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-WXgw63r/0/b354728f/L/6178B4EA-3989-4641-A330-64448DB139AA-L.jpg)
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The missing picture. The fan was only £28. Total cost £52 delivered
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-bdTM47S/0/5f5e9d8a/XL/76A0C2C2-F891-4114-8C88-51E370A82DCD-XL.jpg)
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Maybe I am being a bit over cautious but you might be better with LED style lighting it will not be too hot , I follow you thinking the heat will cure the paint faster , heat, motor spark or is the extract fan brushless ,paint fumes as you will be aware can go flash bang and that not good.
David
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Hi David
The reason for the heat is to combat the intense cold and prevent the paint blooming. It’s not about drying time. The extract fan will be pulling precious warm air out of the shed while I’m spraying but once I’ve done the lights will go out the fan will go off and the door closed behind me. There certainly won’t be enough heat to ignite acrylic paint
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yer dead right watter wont burn good that you have it covered
da
David
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I’ll report back when I test it for real next week but to be safe I’ll shave my eyebrows {-)
Thanks :-))
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The blower looks like a bilge blower, got one on our boat so should not be a prob as it shifts LPG and petrol fumes.
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https://www.fastlec.co.uk/90410853235-airflow-aventa-100mm-bathroom-shower-toilet-extractor-fan-av100-9041085.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA0b_QBRCeARIsAFntQ9rw-krx73RYQR819xZIfgA3DvtaZT8AH93vvsl3wPZcRxenNtlt0YQaAh1PEALw_wcB (https://www.fastlec.co.uk/90410853235-airflow-aventa-100mm-bathroom-shower-toilet-extractor-fan-av100-9041085.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA0b_QBRCeARIsAFntQ9rw-krx73RYQR819xZIfgA3DvtaZT8AH93vvsl3wPZcRxenNtlt0YQaAh1PEALw_wcB)
I have a bountiful supply of silicon spray so ran this through to coat the pipe and blades to prevent paint adhering
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at least there are three of us who don't watch SCD
David
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Wrong {-)
Rock on Alexandra :-))
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https://www.fastlec.co.uk/90410853235-airflow-aventa-100mm-bathroom-shower-toilet-extractor-fan-av100-9041085.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA0b_QBRCeARIsAFntQ9rw-krx73RYQR819xZIfgA3DvtaZT8AH93vvsl3wPZcRxenNtlt0YQaAh1PEALw_wcB (https://www.fastlec.co.uk/90410853235-airflow-aventa-100mm-bathroom-shower-toilet-extractor-fan-av100-9041085.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiA0b_QBRCeARIsAFntQ9rw-krx73RYQR819xZIfgA3DvtaZT8AH93vvsl3wPZcRxenNtlt0YQaAh1PEALw_wcB)
oops thats what you get going off half cocked :embarrassed: %)
colin
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yer dead right watter wont burn
Actually, I'm not so sure about that (https://youtu.be/Ri7-vnrJD3k). :}
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{-)
She certainly knows how to play on emotions by bringing children on stage <:(
I watched more of the clips and then this 8)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OHXjxWaQs9o
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The next vid after that ,car pool karaoke with James Cordan, is brilliant. She is absolutely wonderful, tried 3 times to get tickets to see her but all gone in seconds! Not bad for a curvy London bird.......better than any of the sticks we see imho.
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Actually, I'm not so sure about that (https://youtu.be/Ri7-vnrJD3k). :}
Tamiya acrylics all have a flammable sticker on them as does the thinner for spraying. Checking the contents shows alcohols and esters all highly flammable. Also a warning dont use near flames or sparks.
Jim
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Don't try this at home children :-)) :}
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I just re lacquered the hull. Quite an intense amount of Satin spray completely surrounding the halogen light and the too hot to touch glass. No adverse results, I'm still here eyebrows in tact {-)
The tins do mention 50C but that is for storage of the tin as it could explode from increased pressure.
I think it would take at least a naked light to induce a flash %%
Pictured after the dust cleared
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-XWcFMg9/0/c1bb9b15/L/EA8990A8-AE79-41B5-82DF-9DFEA6565653-L.jpg)
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I recall a school trip years ago to the local fire station. Had a tour round, slid down thd pole, sat in fire engine etc etc, all good stuff for youngsters. Then demo time, big pan on floor, gallon of 4 star poured into it, then one of the crew lobbed a lit fag end in it, nothing happened, several more where ceramoniously flicked in with no effect.......along came the head man with full BA kit on and kneeled down about 10 foot away and lit a match.......BOOM........almighty fire ball......several scrsaming kids legged it and several more stood wide eyed in awe at the ensuing inferno. Water was first used to put it out......WOOSH......another fireball........absolutely awesome sight, then they spoil it by putting foam on it. They went to great lengths to show the dangers and causes of fires and I still have a healthy respect for anything that can go bang, pop, whizz or burn. But manafacturers are frightened to death if someone is stupid enough to use NAKED FLAMES near stuff, hence all the over the top precautions. As long as you can cover the source of heat or potential spark then you should be ok. Point to remember, turn things on before spraying, then let the room clear before turning off, in case of spafk from switch gear, unless you want to buy Ex rated equipment.......££££££££.
Worked in hazardous/explosive enviroments and never had any misshaps.
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Dad was a fireman and I'm an electrician of 40 years post apprenticeship :-))
I think I was about 5yrs old when I first launched myself at the pole at Xmas party. Old man went mental as I could only just get my arms around it {-) never mind the gap %%
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Unexpectedly recalled to work so down time again so I thought I'd update where its at and add some views.
The hull is now re lacquered. The bulwarks inside and out plus deck will be lacquered next. Once that is done all deck fittings will be re attached or attached for the first time. I'll then re lacquer the deckhouse before turning attention to the wheelhouse and upwards.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-gFX2Bk6/0/fa88da8f/XL/3C067EF9-69AD-4429-9011-BDDB8D879ADE-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-bh5CHhg/0/caa6f0e3/XL/77DB5DC8-DF6B-4A32-9875-6130F8463C04-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-6Tfhtk6/1/8960fcb9/XL/7B549872-BD5B-4507-B34C-589EC7A18E3C-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-V2TJmT5/0/42116d7f/XL/D1DD9018-6762-4F7F-8668-EDBAFA4DD8D4-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-DDvPVjH/0/fc88e0e4/XL/BBDE1E20-0168-4C6B-A6C5-A646E294295F-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-8RpB3MR/1/dc061b9e/XL/FCC93FED-E63F-4969-B42B-F06D9DFDAC6F-XL.jpg)
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Looking good Andy, your patience and attention for detail is beginning to pay off......... :-))
Stewart
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Nice :-))
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It all looks so neat and pristine. Very impressed with your work!
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that's coming alone really nicely :-))
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Thank you all for the encouraging words :-))
I've thought hard about this next major lacquering and to be frank its just not possible in my spray shed.
I need to be able to get around all sides quickly in warm weather to avoid patches of dry overspray. So begging for a freak heat wave (we do get them)
A bit disappointed as that would have lead to a boat load of work being finished (pun)
Attention is now focused on the wheelhouse alone and I'm going to whittle away at it including the inside equipment.
Only 20 more frames to do and I'm priming as I go so I can deal with any imperfections a little at a time rather than one big job at the end.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-2pHHSZS/0/7bb03fb7/X2/EC971B3C-7792-4F59-89A4-DD65B3F86BDD-X2.jpg)
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Tonight I've ordered a selection of Neodymium magnets as I hope to keep the wheelhouse roof permanently demountable. I'd no idea they were so cheap and the bigger ones potentially dangerous.
3mm dia by 1mm thick less than £2 for 50 delivered
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I'd no idea they were so cheap and the bigger ones potentially dangerous.
Yes, you may want to keep your pacemaker* away from them ok2
I have a couple of these at home just for the fun of it.
* also credit cards and other stuff...
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Hi Andy info on magnets please supplier.
Stan.
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Hi Stan,
They are talking about how cheap they are Ebay.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Strong-Magnets-Neodymium-10mm-Dia-x-3mm-Powerful-N35-Disc-Rare-Earth-Craft/262512172663?epid=848032206&hash=item3d1ef1de77:g:JjUAAOSwuzRXfDL4
Cheers
ken
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I bought a selection to experimenting
Don’t know what’s happened to the text {-)
[font=.SF UI Text][/font][font=.SF UI Text][/font][font=.SF UI Text][/font]N52 Disc Magnets -neodymium Model Wargame Warhammer Base Jewellery Tiny Craft UK[font=.SF UI Text][/font][font=.SF UI Text][/font]https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401278341435 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401278341435)[font=.SF UI Text][/font][font=.SF UI Text][/font][font=.SF UI Text][/font] N52 8mm x 3mm x 1mm thin strong Neodymium block magnets SMALL PKS craft fridge[font=.SF UI Text][/font][font=.SF UI Text][/font]https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F142161378855 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F142161378855)[font=.SF UI Text][/font][font=.SF UI Text][/font]Round Magnet 15mm x 2mm Rare Earth Neodymium No. 760[font=.SF UI Text][/font][font=.SF UI Text][/font]https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172257883461 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172257883461)[font=.SF UI Text][/font][font=.SF UI Text][/font][font=.SF UI Text][/font]N52 Disc Magnets -neodymium Model Wargame Warhammer Base Jewellery Tiny Craft UK[font=.SF UI Text][/font][font=.SF UI Text][/font]https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401278341435 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F401278341435)[font=.SF UI Text][/font][font=.SF UI Text][/font]Round Magnet 15mm x 2mm Rare Earth Neodymium No. 760[font=.SF UI Text][/font][font=.SF UI Text][/font]https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172257883461 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172257883461)
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Neither can I. :}
ken
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These just arrived. Can't believe how strong they are. I think these will do for the roof. £2.99
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neodymium-Disc-Magnets-5mm-Dia-x-3mm-Thick-Grade-N50-Small-Strong-Round-Magnet/371176559801?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=640325029118&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Neodymium-Disc-Magnets-5mm-Dia-x-3mm-Thick-Grade-N50-Small-Strong-Round-Magnet/371176559801?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=640325029118&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)
Apologies for the mess in my previous post
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-bmtnctq/1/6c44e0b9/X2/D161A05F-767F-4710-9D64-AA65237ADAA3-X2.jpg)
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It feels a chore after a days work but I need to try get one window per day in the bag
One more and that'll be a quarter done
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-c8HMT6n/0/b87a20fd/XL/E045EAE3-5705-4020-8467-FDA0C24BF51D-XL.jpg)
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Yes Andy, I think large window frames in modern day vessels [being of irregular shape] is a very difficult task to master [especially if you have ~~24 in sets of different shape but all in very close proximity]
Your brass section window frames process is extremely tidy [square/upright/uniform/equal protrusion etc]........& lifelike :-)).....just how will you glaze these?
Derek
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The easy option would be on the inside but the realistic looking option is to have the glazing flush with the front edge of the frames. I'll not frazzle my brain with that until the time comes. I usually have overcome the hurdles one by one so far, pray may that continue %%
EDIT and thank you Derek :-))
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2nd delivery and these really are small. I thought I'd been sent an empty envelope initially {-)
Only 1mm thick but so strong that even at this distance you can see forces at play.
Will be easy to glue in place.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/N52-8mm-x-3mm-x-1mm-thin-strong-Neodymium-block-magnets-SMALL-PKS-craft-fridge/142161378855?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=441230456330&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/N52-8mm-x-3mm-x-1mm-thin-strong-Neodymium-block-magnets-SMALL-PKS-craft-fridge/142161378855?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=441230456330&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-FGP9gjJ/0/a4bb5211/XL/0B21DBB9-6F28-45BD-A381-6569F9D024BE-XL.jpg)
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Good news. I've been invited to the works do despite being agency scum {-)
Plus I'll finish next Thursday until January so more boaty mc boat face time O0
Just one more of these to build and I can go :-))
(https://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/attachments/1b774f97-bef4-4255-9fd0-08a49c095eee-jpeg.199181/)
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"Will be easy to glue in place"...
Even after scouring the magnets surface to be glued, the magnetic gauss bond to the adjoining ferrous piece is so strong they tend to overcome the strength of the glued bond and one ultimately is stronger than the other
Result being <*<............
There are alternate solutions.........Derek
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Have you tried fusion adhesive? seems to stick anything and extremely strong.
I'd love the other options? :-))
At least one half of the magnet pair will be on the back side of the wood shelf so the magnetism will hold it tighter rather than pull it away. I may manage this on both halves. The ply thickness between will reduce the magnetic strength also.
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Sliding neo magnets to separate is an easy option, separating on from each other by direct force on axis with your hands is literally impossible
Grind a chamfer around the magnet faces......rectangular. round, square .....doesn't matter
Select a nitrile O-Ring to the appropriate size...if the magnet is rectangular, form the O-Ring into an ellipse & tack with superglue....randomly drill half a dozen holes into the parent material......one drop of superglue to hold the magnet stable
Gently flood the cavity created by the O-Ring with a thinned epoxy resin until just below the height of the magnet .....the epoxy will also flood into the holes in the parent material keying the epoxy and the magnet
Post curing, you can remove O-Ring if desired
__________________________________________
In a past life %) as a contingency, I used such an arrangement on a Guided Missile Launcher on a Commissioned Australian <*< Frigate
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Brian, rather than using magnet on magnet, (very difficult to seperate). Use a small countersunk screw for the magnet to lock onto, a lot easier to seperate. This is how I have the deck on my Granit locked down.
Stewart
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Thanks Derek that’s something to chew on
Who’s Brian Stewart? {-)
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Sorry Andy, I have been on the phone/Emailing to a chap named Brian for the last couple of days regarding work, got Brian on the brain............I do apologise :embarrassed:
Stewart
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HI all I have used magnets to hold down the full deck and superstructure on the plastic kit PT596 and never had any problem lifting off any of the parts held with magnets. I do agree that sliding them apart is the best way to separate them but when in place this may not be possible. In my new fishing boat the decks are held in place with magnets again no problem lifting them off.
Stan
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I have many aircraft with canopies and hatches held in place with magnets. The magnet doesn't come loose if you sink it into the surface so it is flush. Usually glued with either epoxy or superglue and they don't come free, even when glued to foam. Normally using 2 magnets, one each side of the join. If you are finding that the attraction between the magnets is stronger than the glue joint then perhaps you need to use smaller magnets. :D Jim
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I tend to use a magnet on one side and a washer on the other, weakens the effect. Still prefer to slide articles apart. nemesis
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I used a couple of super magnets to hold the servo plate inside my Imara (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,57420.msg601175.html#msg601175) in place. Works like a charm. I used slow and strong Araldite epoxy to hold the magnets in place.
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I'm sure I have enough different strength options to fulfil my needs. These came today and there are 50 here
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-GpkXh3g/0/e1b7ae14/X2/EF4C3E65-67A4-4367-961D-74F78938FA4F-X2.jpg)
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I'm replicating the grab handles too but I'll not fix them until filling/priming is complete
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-p259mTD/0/0e22b93c/XL/C8072F4B-6CD4-4ED6-BB4F-DAA4CC8FAFC5-XL.jpg)
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Nice work Andy very impressive :-))
Peace colin
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Thanks Colin.
I'm glad I decided to fill and prime as I go as it would be a lot to do at the end.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-4pdPRW8/0/1614a2ad/X2/6C6FDA62-2B1D-4CB8-8496-81CD03767310-X2.jpg)
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Fantastic work Andy. I’m really enjoying your build.
Great to see a craftsman at work - and what can be done.
Cheers :-))
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Thank you Jeff, glad you're enjoying it :-))
Some info here on how I do the frame dividers etc.
First I make and fit the frame dry before soldering the joint. I remove and clean it up then glue it in place.
Then the divider is held with masking tape while I solder one side after which it is fairly secure to do the other end. Then just a good clean up with sandpaper. This glue has quite good gap filling properties.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-LRMchcg/0/c6281f26/XL/2F2F9A0F-FF7A-4A78-9ECA-6BF909A81D4C-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-HDvTRZ5/0/b74f7e54/XL/84E2F64B-9CD0-4651-8950-28B9554F327B-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-LtN8tZV/0/1aaba28c/XL/4EBCD8D4-9325-4271-9576-724E27BC857B-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-9rmBCLW/0/15f98f77/X2/82534CB4-8B48-4F5B-8451-C3C2B7C9FFC4-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-Dg3D6XK/0/f908f5fc/XL/FC39AE5E-4402-4B80-A5E7-CB04CAD3D796-XL.jpg)
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That is such nice quality work Andy and a very difficult thing to get right :-))
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Those panels with their frames look like single items Andy. It is difficult to believe that they are made of several parts given your efforts at filling and priming.
Supoib :-))
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Sickingly good........makes me want to stamp on mine......probably make it look better. %%
Awesome stuff Andy
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Thank you all. Very sorry to hear that Stewart {:-{
I have come up with a flawless way to do the glazing :-)
I can save a whole host of problems by leaving it as is :-))
When complete I will have the cleanest looking glass EVER! {-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-bZNRPBV/1/fa0c0f53/X2/DAA5C992-D2FD-4C3D-A63F-6391F05D7723-X2.jpg)
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I can save a whole host of problems by leaving it as is :-))
When complete I will have the cleanest looking glass EVER! {-)
Now that is a cunning plan and one that has crossed my mind Andy.
Have been putting off doing the bridge on mine as I am strugging with windows and doorways, they all end up looking wonky, will keep chipping away at it, I will get it right eventually.
Stewart
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Now that is a cunning plan and one that has crossed my mind Andy.
Have been putting off doing the bridge on mine as I am strugging with windows and doorways, they all end up looking wonky, will keep chipping away at it, I will get it right eventually.
Stewart
Yes just take your time :-)) I just use pliers to bend the brass. If it bends slightly to the wrong length you just reposition the pliers on the bend to move the bend along either way little by little.
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Now and again it helps to boost the enthusiasm/motivation buy throwing the bits together and dreaming of the end result. Despite good progress it still seems a long way off. Of course I could stick to the bare essentials but potentially still bits to add even a year from now between other builds.
In this first picture I should point out that I made the mistake of following MMM's build plan so yes the doors to the wheelhouse are very wrong and should not be recessed. I would have to build another Portgarth if I had another lifetime %) to build the whole vessel correctly.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-88Wv5jT/0/3b28ed17/X2/EB425089-31FC-4777-863F-06D9D65A32E1-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-Qh7HPCB/0/12c4ecba/X2/2B956268-3E58-4AC6-B2A1-29773F65F8C3-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-7MKJMTZ/0/395a7c5a/X2/614CE703-A466-4AE4-8234-3A1581A09F29-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-sqHk2GW/0/d0865205/X2/AF717A70-EBB0-4E27-8BFB-6146F4D71ECB-X2.jpg)
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A good day so far
15 down 9 to go.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-FCkPbWt/1/2f3b900d/X2/D752DF96-B4F1-41C2-B57C-FEF42858ABBC-X2.jpg)
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Andy just had a thought about the glazing - if the cross bar in the window was slightly narrower it would give you something to rest a perspex window against for fitting from the inside. Not really something that you want to hear though at this stage {-) Sorry bud just thinking out loud :-))
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Thanks Mark but I am going with no glazing :-))
I believe that when fully painted and with inside detail it will look better than risking messing it up with glue and perspex that will dull & scratch over time.
I may even fit window wipers to add to the deception 8)
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I may even fit window wipers to add to the deception 8)
Now thats a smart idea and i reckon that it would work very nicely O0
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I found this.
Scroll down the page a bit
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?1035530-Need-to-build-windshield-wipers-need-hints
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Thats another window cleaner out of a job. nemesis
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See if this works.
Marine traffic dot com has some great pictures at FULL file size. Only available if you register and log in.
Easy view shot first
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth/i-DndmBGL/0/6a614b64/L/PORTGARTH-8-L.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth/i-DndmBGL/0/6a614b64/O/PORTGARTH-8.jpg)
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Today I’m on brass work continued.
First given the highly detailed photographs I established that the mast was too far astern of the roof so I’ve repositioned it.
Now I’m making the access ladder to the roof and the final seven window frames to the wheelhouse.
I’m using square section brass tube for the ladder with 2mm servo rod inserts for the bends. I will fit pins to the foot of the ladder to locate into the deck.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-KbbgfpW/0/9dbd7723/X2/B317FA5C-A774-4D82-BDAE-25CE31C6367C-X2.jpg)
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Later in the build there will be handrails connected at the elbow bend extending to the roof handrails
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-J9FFCsq/0/e3795fee/X2/018A33C6-988B-41F4-AF31-3CE245FDA17F-X2.jpg)
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Time for a beer
All windows completed, now on with the interior furniture.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-GzXncPB/1/2306f794/X2/429C3C7E-97FB-4676-81C7-100119CF2FA9-X2.jpg)
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Superb Andy. I really admire your work. :-))
ken
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Thanks Ken
THIRD attempt at posting, forum is not well.
So it begins
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth/i-2kGZs2Z/0/20ba2619/O/Untitled%20attachment%2000040.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-6FL3VkH/0/940917b9/X2/99BD0E21-E8D2-4393-8847-DDF74A31B142-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-cDmjMqM/0/41689825/X2/AE97D20D-AC91-4BED-8B91-84062054E415-X2.jpg)
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Lovely work Andy as per usual, although I see you have now signed this latest masterpiece, Leaving your thumbprint in the paint below the door is an excellent idea :}
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Lovely work Andy as per usual, although I see you have now signed this latest masterpiece, Leaving your thumbprint in the paint below the door is an excellent idea :}
It gets covered by the door fitting so best place to handle when wet ok2
Funny BTW {-) :-))
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That wheelhouse does look amazing Andy.
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Cheers IanI feel like I'm on a roll here. Everything just fits without a hitch so far so no need to glue in place.I thought this would be tedious but I'm enjoying it. The level of detail is in a builders hands, no idea how far this will go {-) but I will be making the masters chair myself, don't like any off the shelf offerings even if there was one in scale.
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I give up! damn pictures won't show. >>:-(
Someone give me a shout when the forum is repaired please
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SEE FOOTNOTE
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-4mJJk78/1/e62bc823/XL/EC35E129-5026-4714-9403-C394B8C48938-XL.jpg)
SORRY BUT THE FORUM IS BROKEN AND IT TOOK HALF AN HOUR OF FAFFING JUST TO POST ONE PICTURE :((
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If there is to be no glazing, is there a risk of water retention and possible damage from prolonged immersion of joins and corners etc if not removed fully Andy?
I ask because you are obviously putting double the effort into this build than perhaps should have been required, and I would hate for your extra efforts to have a shorter lifespan than they deserve.
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I would defiantly have windows, if the boat is out and starts to rain, or someone gets carried away with water cannons its going to get wet in there.
I have never used glue, to stick windows i use Stix 2 3mm double sided tape good stuff no messy windows :-)) ballastanksian said it all why spoil all that great work you are doing.
regards John B.
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Thank you both
I’m not ruling it out but for now things are clearer in my mind without including that.
The inside of the wheelhouse will be no more vulnerable than the deckhouse or deck, it will all be painted.
I won’t be doing rain {-) I’ll stay home and build something :-))
Thanks for the double sided tape tip John
The thought of making 24 windows is too much to contemplate just now {:-{
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IT TOOK HALF AN HOUR OF FAFFING JUST TO POST ONE PICTURE :((
Andy......I am not sure what your issue is, but I have taken on one lost sole....missyd from Switzlerland and posted her hull images in her thread here tonight [Switzerland to Australia...then back to a UK server O0]
What you need is another MBM member to pick up the ball & run with it to help you until this posting glitch is resolved......is there not a local who can help?
Derek
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-nv9gph8/0/4f9386b1/X2/E61BD2A3-2EFC-4864-98EA-61282AA31D24-X2.jpg)
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There isn’t anything wrong with my picture posting Derek
It’s just the same as ever except since the maintenance work it times out and reports a data base error please try again later.
I’m only inserting images hosted by myself I have never attached pictures
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I had to modify some parts to create enough circulation room
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-73q87f3/0/774c8013/XL/3FF6A715-1B53-477F-9710-952648235A41-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-rF7gSjf/0/100a97c5/XL/E60D09A1-F775-4D59-98EB-D966CD2DD348-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-bxz9s9q/0/9222a21d/X2/D779FC8C-4D04-4B34-AF43-965CCB46288F-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-TK3XPzC/0/7d81ebbc/X2/A187B525-953F-47EB-A3A6-E9C0B5EAF899-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-sjLzRTN/0/18034799/X2/7A4456E2-0A81-4482-842C-67FD23936246-X2.jpg)
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Looks lovely Andy.
I thought (when I saw the first picture) that it was a piano. {-)
Cheers
ken
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Will we see her in the water at Balne 2018?
I would like to get a photo alongside my Pegasus (chopped Maltby hull).
Can't wait for next year's towing.
Cheers, Pete
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Two pianos now Ken :-)) but I'm fed up trying with pictures until the forum is fixed :((
Yes Pete most likely at Balne again, I like to get her 'bottom' filthy {-) saves weathering :-)
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Testing..........Edit two attempts and nearly 5 mins just to insert one picture :((
EDIT
try another pic?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-4VMmKHD/0/42128363/XL/33EE5478-0868-4B91-A137-E0D5BEBC0121-XL.jpg)
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still broken >:-o
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These would have been here
https://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/going-to-give-myself-a-tug.144750/page-12#post-2628963 (https://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/going-to-give-myself-a-tug.144750/page-12#post-2628963)
Or direct to page 6 volume 5
https://techno.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-8G5LXjV
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So time to celebrate 🎉 the forum is fixed and I got a new device so expect better pictures 👌🏆
Also notice that emoticons are posted from my phone! is that a new one?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Other/Miscellaneous/i-RK8HMXc/0/d7ca40a1/X2/6CE801E4-5723-42E1-9266-71FD14DFEB0F-X2.jpg)
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This is my almost complete masters chair prior to paint. I just have to make some armrests from styrene that will simply glue to the backrest. I've used FUSION to attach the seat base and back to the brass.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-7pzVx5h/0/23f91766/XL/05457A93-C00A-4340-899F-53AAD770C4FB-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-JgTQNkn/0/c2fbf526/XL/6308323B-9905-4106-842F-C7994E2AA83D-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth/i-GDgFB8F/0/50e43d08/O/Untitled%20attachment%2000046.jpg)
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Where the clock and barometer are is I believe the cable way for the kit on the mast etc. It will serve the same purpose if I do illuminate it.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth/i-tXkbkdD/0/6582d8e5/O/Untitled%20attachment%2000031.dat.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-8G5LXjV/0/70ed8142/X3/69E279F3-9966-40D6-BB0C-84EE338287F3-X3.jpg)
Leeds model shop has started selling wood by Amarti? or Amati??
Anyway it is beautiful walnut and really cheap. The duck board is made from it and needs no further treatment
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-DxpCwTm/0/e7d6856e/X3/81031934-8B5D-460A-BD62-ABF23A5CE70D-X3.jpg)
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Everything looks superb! You'e very talented and it's a joy to follow this build.
Hama
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I thought (when I saw the first picture) that it was a piano. {-)
The exact same thing crossed my mind when I saw that picture.
And you will need two keyboards if you're after an impressive performance (http://assets.teamrock.com/image/8b39213b-c02f-4a02-9ca0-e41e310dc0c9?w=1280). Way to go :-)) :}
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Thank you Hama :-)) glad you enjoy it.
Thanks Tafel :-))
Actually fitting the keys on the piano now that will be a chore {-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-D3kRpLW/0/ec2f0dfb/X2/12FD82BD-9A38-4419-B09D-B92AE9CA71B5-X2.jpg)
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Satin lacquer just creates the right sheen on the back
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-D8xHvKV/0/01f900f4/X2/020F59CC-4965-4DF4-A22C-F80E5EC3AA37-X2.jpg)
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iphone10
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-qGzxBmv/0/3731149c/X2/EAF2D5BE-032F-48B6-8B54-1874D071656E-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-8JGzhhF/0/fa7eea0f/X2/2590B43D-A286-4B09-9D27-BB959AD5583A-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-JVHj3h6/0/978ff3dc/X2/EBB314FA-257B-4D2B-AB4F-477F01953E29-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-W3hs5zF/0/f5d8df59/X2/6AAD2238-C99D-4E5D-9241-25E1E1F0B966-X2.jpg)
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Very nice work, coming together well
colin
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Cheers Colin
Meanwhile while the garage sale is in progress......
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-BQ3MxqX/0/fb908e7e/X2/69F1ED94-9EB8-499C-AD82-ECFD8792A85D-X2.jpg)
I've made a start on the mast platform. I must crack on as a lifeboat is imminent.
This is all make it up as you like, no idea how I'll fit it yet.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-Z9FmgpF/0/f37983ff/X2/AAB860A2-D8E1-4CBF-AE34-F66D2F3D50D5-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-FgfXGC8/0/9e8a1753/X2/A220FD81-D9AE-450B-87F4-51F6E9E882C9-X2.jpg)
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Mast access platform went like a charm right off the cuff beyond my wildest dreams.
I used a gas iron to avoid having to contact the brass parts and move them.
Using spacers wedges and all manner of improvisation I made a successful evening 8)
The only points that will eventually be glued are the three legs of the mast, everything else just looks like its fixed.
I started by slotting the mast to take the frame but I filed a C section in the frame so it doesn't interfere with the mast possible cable route
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-8wSkSpq/0/2c433167/XL/376E8CEA-7A5B-4FE9-8736-21AC8AEBE6C8-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-sThPWT9/0/a6ce8dc1/XL/A1BDF4FF-27C8-4D64-BF08-52D893661CE4-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-xJJpxHG/0/7fbd756e/XL/50FDA9B8-3A27-41AD-8C40-0238257A0073-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-TvPQGm7/0/1fc7ae0e/XL/8CF5E915-151B-4777-868A-1BAE9344005A-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-Hkfchdp/0/49d3acdf/XL/4FF1E8C0-5A64-4B90-B6EE-D8D0A97D32F9-XL.jpg)
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Just one piccy tonight
I started marking out the mast and realised it was too tall >>:-(
So luckily I had not finished the ladder cage and managed to unsolder the top four hoops and drop them a rung each before finishing the cage off.
Next job is all the lighting arms before attaching the ladder
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-JWB2mJz/0/2fd33e45/X3/F0030990-4B45-4F8E-AD69-57E6C3E4CD2C-X3.jpg)
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Masking just seems never ending
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-7MXz25R/0/e8a540a1/X2/3508DFF5-CD5D-485F-B695-572CD0665705-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-gZ9T9f3/0/71870c7b/X2/655AE2B2-D364-40B5-A3E6-A0053F5D730A-X2.jpg)
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The roof ladder now has pegs to locate into the upper deck and two sleeves soldered on to take the handrails up onto the roof later without having to solder.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-ZTZKKbx/1/4279e8e8/XL/47693E05-5B41-4139-9930-8E2AD6CBA970-XL.jpg)
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Really nice work Andy,looking good :-))
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Really nice work Andy,looking good :-))
Thanks John and merry Christmas 8)
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Today is 9 months and 4 days since receiving the GRP hull. The number of hours spent has not been logged and as the level of detail is up to each builder I reckon it's impossible to quantify.
I think I will have this finished within the 12 months brackets despite having another build starting soon.
Really time isn't important as long as it's something you have and enjoy spending it :-)
EDIT
I have abandoned the magnet idea for the wheel house roof. I can secure it with two screws and clamping plates through the windows over the doors. I'm sure it will be unobtrusive and a bonus of not fitting glazing
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Patience now while Royal blue hardens enough to mask over and paint the Arum White
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-96gZ9vN/0/52de3731/L/F246E993-7646-42AC-8DA3-4399F998E2E0-L.jpg)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-tCG5XdQ/0/39d73e96/X2/DDD01FED-2CC5-470E-BCBB-068C9D786B22-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-rWW2WHp/0/3a1760e5/X2/62EC5525-B079-41C3-89FB-D5AC9A1B467B-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-qZMgN6R/0/d1c930e3/X2/297F1766-2F76-42DA-83C3-A38394D240DC-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-sjc9ZVG/0/9c0d2626/X2/AA3E12FB-BFFD-4675-9418-75AC8C425D5E-X2.jpg)
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Having just done the above successfully I've concluded that I will make the rest of the rails this way too. It's much less restrictive than feeding rods through stanchions
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The deckhouse finally got its satin lacquer coat and I’m pleased with the finish. So the funnels are fixed in place now. Progress feels satisfactory
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-p9F6G2t/0/bbd31fd8/X2/7DD97CAC-DA4B-4CB8-9F87-4E4D8FA980B7-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-4SCLd9x/0/11923d7e/X2/E5F53863-F1F9-4BF8-96EC-5F148536A5E7-X2.jpg)
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That last photo really highlights the concave bow. The real tug is not concave at all and this hull has been produced with a number of inaccuracies for decades :((
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Just some satin lacquer required on the lower section of the wheelhouse and the superstructure will be finished 🎉
All the work left is handrails and mast so I’m a lot closer the end than I thought.
It will be quite a while weather wise before I can relacquer the decks and bulwarks and do a final equipment fit
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-FDtx6F7/0/0456f6c1/X3/A0A60C43-E6A3-4E8D-9588-BE067F729481-X3.jpg)
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Filling time in with bits n bobs
I'm drilling holes up the crews legs for a brass rod so they can be located and pivot on the spot
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-wJSn8Rm/0/47cc3b0d/X2/6D9DE838-4984-40DF-BC5A-21A15CD3A724-X2.jpg)
The four M4 fixings into the deckhouse roof are all going to be concealed by removable furniture
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-WB2zSf7/0/a434f28d/X2/8BB536F7-63E6-4293-8D4A-D3C1A38276E4-X2.jpg)
A piece of paxolin acts as a location for the cupboard/desk unit
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-c9C5tPJ/0/4e71acdd/X2/B3B9D210-EB3E-475A-9799-B8833C585E5D-X2.jpg)
The duck board is satin lacquered and secured with cockpit glue
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-VR9DVM7/0/2065c334/X2/DF2F23BF-C18C-48C4-B2F6-B0F0106C6AD0-X2.jpg)
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Look no glass 8)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-WB2zSf7/0/a434f28d/X2/8BB536F7-63E6-4293-8D4A-D3C1A38276E4-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-tf2pr3n/0/2508ebeb/X2/6F3D2845-92BB-4081-8F09-C84666BBA0CE-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-CT9rtjx/0/fb6380b4/X2/73355530-8B64-43D0-83F0-51B8E44F91AE-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-pQXNjgn/0/25b7d766/X2/E42414D2-4660-41F9-B1B2-F6924EF62A77-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-R92wLQh/0/8b364e98/X2/9EDF16F8-528B-4C1D-99D9-C714B5265038-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-nFqkRrJ/0/e5d0d307/X2/D0CD8DFB-4373-4271-AAC9-47FC07EE05B8-X2.jpg)
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Merry Christmas
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-sXhBMWZ/0/324db400/X2/C967FC7C-5A27-4719-9D30-B108622CCEFE-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-HBRv73D/0/71f0fd24/X2/98A35944-2A81-4FDD-B426-CBA0DCEA8424-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-phGz34T/0/ceb278a0/X2/00BD635A-2B8A-4089-8F53-F4513EE851E6-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-8xc4q3n/0/ee680b10/X2/45D9B5DF-DABB-4B73-A152-812D252E8DB7-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-H6nM3jv/0/98f46c08/X2/30957275-4A26-45B6-B3EC-54717FD61D8F-X2.jpg)
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Beautiful. :-)) :-))
A work of art.
Cheers
ken
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Cheers Ken :-))
It’s certainly turned out miles beyond my expectations from when I started in March 8) :-)
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Some more fantasy play time, loose assembly for effect
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-pcsZVZ8/0/034dd29a/X3/8971B58B-8150-4D5E-A1A1-0941B18A05C9-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-zgvgdX3/0/95f653d2/X3/E5E89465-2EA6-44F7-AED2-9EA6C828E5C1-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-h6LCC97/0/073c4d89/X3/27681360-A5CF-43D7-82A1-20F46C02E6FC-X3.jpg)
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Hi
I have been watching this build from the beginning . I must what you have been doing is great and the tug looks great.
john
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Thank you John :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-C3zNpKQ/0/ef65fa89/X2/2E9E7474-9C78-47DE-BEEE-7E5256915728-X2.jpg)
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There isn't much weight to add now so tomorrow I'll re visit the bath and see how she sits. If the bow is down then it'll be a change to 20,000Mah of LiPo's and some lead.
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Competition time.
Guess the weight? :-)
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No changes needed. Still Ok with two 9ah 12volt
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-nHZR9Qh/0/fd44b379/X2/9AAA84B5-436E-46D1-9D5F-2918F24EE000-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-mmbh7Mf/0/37e48698/X2/C9D3B909-B5C0-48DC-A866-53A0789A9D88-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-SmxZLQQ/0/d0f6e55f/X2/EE78280A-0A35-45CE-94BC-12D3E97CEEB9-X2.jpg)
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Ok no one wants to guess? She weighs 38lbs of which 5.2kg is the batteries
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Looks very nice sitting on her waterline - top job there Andy you should be rightly proud :-))
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Cheers Mark :-))
I'm now following a tip I got from your Fairmount thread.
I've drilled my roof on the proxxon pillar drill using the depth stop and cut all my stanchions to a uniform length.
Next I will put a sheet of paper over my roof and press through all the holes then transfer to a scrap piece of wood so I can do all the soldering clear of the boat.
I'm using 1.6mm brass rod for top rail and uprights then 1mm for the lower rails
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-9h5Mz5q/0/6b82d84b/X3/0D27214F-3455-43AF-A630-AA1CFE695331-X3.jpg)
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Enough for an afternoon, finish it tomorrow
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-bXgbShn/0/8fe1d75b/X2/6E7FE2E5-95F7-4FD0-957A-2450CCC770B2-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-zDHRqtf/0/6ca98537/X2/6B3F2CD5-5107-48F1-8897-1AAA79909AA5-X2.jpg)
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Thank you, Andy! Happy holidays to you, too! Your greetings really warmed me on the inside :-)
I haven't been naughty - exactly. Just sick :((
Little progress with my UREKA XIV - fine tuning the painting of some of the deck furniture.
(feeling ashamed).
I feel better now and I really have to carry on with my setbacks work. The bulwark gives me a headache.
Happy new year!
Hande
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Great to hear from you.
I like to think that a trek is nothing more than a lot of small steps :-)
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Really nice work Andy,looking good :-))
BTW John! put me on your list for a hull :-))
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Brass continued.
I made up some steps from an offcut of the mast ladder by adding some treads on top of the rungs
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-4m3gjFD/0/19b648ac/X2/6B9F0CA2-4FFF-45B8-9B63-4DC751D78F6D-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-4VPhsBw/0/5aa1ab84/X2/076AB572-CB81-4C40-8DB6-266893BE73D2-X2.jpg)
This took a lot longer than anticipated after an initial good start. I was up until 2:30 this morning :o
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-DxVGhJW/0/b2a2ca21/X2/E105D77F-BE9E-47DE-B717-A18B7B5F66D9-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-xfjcgqN/0/93066c77/X2/0566853B-8278-4922-A5C8-000B3A2CF83D-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-f5cLgwW/0/2d613d9f/X3/E82287FD-D4E0-4900-A276-B90911B2DC6D-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-nG8zRcF/0/d40d2f27/X3/79B5D95E-5783-4FAC-BDC1-4DAF82B71F51-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-97hnjVT/0/a8df9675/X3/4FC2D1EF-0F33-4FBA-92B0-2A6600C2BB61-X3.jpg)
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I have just returned from Christmas with the family and am impressed with that mast and roof railing assembly! I like a good brass structure and this is one of the best I have seen for a while. Modern vessels throw up some real challenges like this.
I was going to guess that weight Andy but you beat me to it (Honest %) )
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Thanks Ian
What might you have guessed? I bet you were cock on {-)
I'm struggling with mast lights, not sure I want the hassle of illuminating it.
I'm now ready for roof equipment but the MMM fittings are either sub standard or again way under scale.
The binnacle weighs nearly as much as my mast {-) The spotlight is pants. The gooseneck vents I hate!
All things I can resolve later.
My spray shed has been a boon and not blown up yet :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-GT3P2Dq/0/c6418138/X2/31567E9C-0706-4C6B-9597-B5D7B4E99459-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-sXPVxWf/0/b9543155/X2/9D6E3997-8E90-4557-86F1-B29DAC94DF1F-X2.jpg)
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I need some nice snorkel vents ( may have to make them) and a spot light
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-FrccPzZ/0/2d6d2cae/X3/31F4049E-B1DC-45D7-9F69-A267225E951E-X3.jpg)
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Ulreka I found them
The 14mm one will probably fit. £40 worth %% but just like the real one :-))
Anyone know what glue to use????????????????????
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-tMMXBMV/0/5d64ad87/X2/E8D7E329-0317-4AFF-BA02-3FF05AAA7228-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-MD8rGNk/0/cbbe2c26/X2/66762390-CD63-4054-BF58-DC180D4D82C4-X2.jpg)
A binnacle that weighs nowt £2.49
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-Gp9TKkv/0/0b21ce1d/X2/22F9B99C-93C4-4C9F-9376-840785EF2E48-X2.jpg)
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Seems it's mainly Solder a bit of CA and a bit of canopy glue despite my lack of German %)
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If you are careful etch will solder. What thickness is the etch .3mm, .5mm? If the latter, it should take some heat.
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Job is done :-)) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/12/28/Spotlight.jpg)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-m535KKS/0/c1213e42/XL/31656206-BFB2-46FE-8725-6C329988F8F5-XL.jpg)
Now a GRIPE!! why can't we expect fittings to be realistic and in correct proportions instead of being plied with junk?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-vzG8Qpv/0/2d399468/X2/140443EB-A388-4605-B71E-B01F9DB1AB9F-X2.jpg)
I've just knocked up the correct size vent for the wheelhouse and deckhouse roofs. I need four in total but how easy or hard is it to create a resin casting?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-ddfbdZ9/0/6bda24e7/X2/6B743453-33F6-4245-B0F1-3456CE29AF44-X2.jpg)
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Removing the location pin and replacing it later with a brass rod will make casting in resin easier because then you have much of the base of the swan neck to cut an 'In gate' to (2) and adding a riser (2) will then allow air to escape the return of the neck otherwise it will probably get trapped (5) causing you to have many failures as tipping the mould while the resin is liquid may not be enough.
Places where small air bubbles will try and collect (6) are corners of the flange and where the riser joins the swan neck unless the riser is as big as the neck or you can successfully jiggle them out with knocks or vibration; there being no way you can poke them out.
As the shape is simple, you could make a one part mould and slit it almost all open to remove the master and then careful closing of the mould should reduce 'Stepping' where the mould halves have been poorly aligned causing a step to appear in the casting.
The numbers refer to a drawing I uploaded (Hopefully)
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Thanks Ian
I may just make the four unless anyone out there wants to produce it to add to their 1/32 inventory ?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-FtrC5qh/0/fd67bacb/X2/491A2CDC-13CA-46EA-BCD1-348B9B14E80B-X2.jpg)
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Size comparison :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Speedline-Shannon-class/i-MwnWxtt/0/84f30067/X2/0261597E-6872-431F-91D7-77C9A66BAD18-X2.jpg)
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https://www.shapeways.com/product/S429U3JNJ/goose-neck-with-flanges-2x4-with-flanges-20pc?optionId=64118111
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Nice looking quality Brian but nothing like those on the Portgarth which are almost handrail height and quite large diameter and no flanges
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-zGMV4Cc/0/d31b1576/XL/84CFD4A8-B5F3-4224-AA57-FEE0C4A461A9-XL.jpg)
5mm round bar
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/12/28/Spotlight.jpg)
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Yep, but if you search shapeways there is stuff to your scale and various items, its always worth a look, the off putter is the price of this 3d printed stuff. The shape you have there could have been made with a 4 inch nail, put a bend in it and trim to size, using the head as the base flange, once painted you'd never know.
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Yep, but if you search shapeways there is stuff to your scale and various items, its always worth a look, the off putter is the price of this 3d printed stuff. The shape you have there could have been made with a 4 inch nail, put a bend in it and trim to size, using the head as the base flange, once painted you'd never know.
What I need it seems is a course in 3D design and printing. OR just buy for a seller who gives more than a toss {-)
You wouldn't get this from Speedline everything is A1
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Meanwhile
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-H5JRkPB/0/58f5efd1/X2/10768E01-F212-47D5-9D48-51EE56564519-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-tsWtgzK/0/48d3e489/X2/5539ECA4-4AB2-4975-AA11-AE9417302B69-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-9XHCbzV/0/06883ee1/X2/DA65AAF3-B25C-45BC-9DAA-9E1AFE7AFDD8-X2.jpg)
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What I need it seems is a course in 3D design and printing.
Don't do it. I've been trying to learn sketchup for 4 weeks now, it is so difficult to move from viewing and drawing in 2s to imagining an item and drawing it in 3d, I'm wondering if it is easier to pay the premium and buy parts that others have already designed :embarrassed: :embarrassed:
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Slow going in painting
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-Z5b2Zvs/0/8247e522/X2/851F943E-2D79-4B1B-9DCD-3127B4078FD0-X2.jpg)
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Looking great Andy :-))
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Thank you kindly :-))
I decided it folly to pay over £21 for a 14mm spotlight and not wire it up %% so I have 8)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-v45LtHQ/0/b2d97012/X2/C84E05DA-73A2-4630-9D57-D533341C3506-X2.jpg)
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Little beauty :kiss:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-LW8Lz4d/0/f46fe96c/XL/D4856C4A-842D-4BAD-9642-8FA7FE0587EA-XL.jpg)
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Is the cable being hidden Andy?
Ned
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The real one has a cable but I think it goes into the motor mounting box. I cant really do that on the model so it will go through the roof as close as poss behind it
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Having decided finally on no glass and ruled out neodim magnets. I have come up with this idea after a lot of fiddling and dropped bits.
The little brass plate is angled just enough that it will turn 90 degrees when I do the screw up and rotate back clear when I loosen it. This means the screw can stay put without fiddling every time. It is 2mm and tapped into the wood.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-kV32BdN/0/f38113f5/XL/51542E92-C050-4F35-AD7B-492C19A7DD9A-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-jSC4WnR/0/ae0f6062/XL/5E4A5FF7-31DD-499C-A20E-EC35D96315BB-XL.jpg)
From aside un noticeable
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-x9z4hz5/0/54aec360/XL/3211C573-45AC-4728-97CE-0128B67F246E-XL.jpg)
EDIT well barely {-) maybe paint it white :-))
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So theoretically if I can parallel all the LED's down to just a pair of contacts (assuming I manage fitting them all) I can glue all this up as one and take it off at will. This falls in nicely with the demountable wheelhouse and funnels
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-8M7dmjG/0/19aaf94d/X2/DBF2E749-1965-44BC-9E24-FBB1BF0E5F06-X2.jpg)
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Possibly at some time I might stretch to recreating the ceiling to hide the wires and enhance the look further. Not in great detail but the general shape just like the captains consoles
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth/i-pTSDKjC/0/37e7f07c/O/Untitled%20attachment%2000129.dat.jpg)
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Here I've started to form the stair and deckhouse roof top rails. It's important that they are identical to start off.
Because the stair is too narrow I can only fit the outboard rail unless the crew go up sideways. I will crank the rail outwards slightly and curve the stair stanchions to suit. I will do my best to make it all look plausible.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-xDSKqMz/0/324e76a9/XL/030EC876-55E9-400F-BA56-D09496133D31-XL.jpg)
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Happy new year and thank you for all the private messages/emails recently ! Very much appreciated.
:kiss: :-) Especially Clifford :-))
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They do look identical Andy, how did you accomplish that? I'm interested to know before I get to bending lots of rails on my present build.
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Good morning Brian
I started with a length of wire just reasonable long enough without having excess flapping about.
Then on one stair I started at the bottom with the first bend and the slight crank outwards to create the illusion I need to make the stair look wider
Holding that in place on the model and tweeking until I was happy that it matched the pictures I have I held my thumb nail at the point of the second bend with my right hand. Now this is the awkward part as I’m right handed so I transferred that point over to my left thumb so I could start the second bend with pliers.
Then keep trying it against the model and adjust until 100% happy it helps to have the correct height stanchion after the second bend to get the height change correct from the stair slope onto the level deck.
Then I only have two more bends the same way
Now to mirror image I just held a fresh piece of rod alongside and made the first two bends to match (the small kick and first bend) the new rod is now travelling away from the old rod at the next bend so being careful need bring them back Parallel so they are alongside to mark the next bend then again for the final bend. The brass is very easy to twist for minor adjustments and bends can be moved either way with careful positioning of pliers
I hope that creates the right picture a video would be better but I don’t do utube
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You've done well. I have tried the accepted method - transfer the shape to a board by drawing it out - if its a square, draw a square and then where you want bends, the corners on a square, hammer in a panel pin. Baiscally whatever shape you need, draw it and put a panel pin wherever there is a bend.
Then use that to bend your wires around. Sounds simple but I have never yet in years of doing this, managed to get in the case of railings, get three or even two exactly the same! There is always some slight difference on the corners so that it is noticeable on the finished item.
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Thanks
Practice gained making 24 brass window frames has no doubt helped {-)
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I find bending wire and tube to be a challenge. Where do you put the mark for bending? where you want to bend or at the point plus half the width of the rod??
Good metalwork again Andy :-))
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I find bending wire and tube to be a challenge. Where do you put the mark for bending? where you want to bend or at the point plus half the width of the rod??
Good metalwork again Andy :-))
Thanks Ian. Any method that works for you as long as its consistent, working freehand requires practice and some experimentation but I always start with a gentle bend and re try it before continuing with more bend or adjusting it along either way before giving it full what for .
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My handrails and vents are now satin lacquered and a snug fit without glue. Vents glued only.
Much easier to fix if damage occurs
Other parts are waiting their turn in the drying stakes.
The lacquer helps make the paint more robust I feel as paint alone easily suffers chipping on brass.
The search light is finished and in the paint shop, it has been dry fitted first hence the locating holes in the roof
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-nVtCrK2/0/8c670400/X3/6EBF52C7-B893-4D18-90F7-BA29D5093316-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-mHmpRQT/0/5aaacc40/X3/242AA626-2CE5-433F-970D-178741780F67-X3.jpg)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-rgTzpSR/0/47a6aa3e/X2/293056D6-307E-4927-AAA2-DC3C2944DEB3-X2.jpg)
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Cheers :-))
(https://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/attachments/452f025f-ef94-44a8-9761-bc23200bf616-jpeg.205073/)
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For a warship model, I would lacqure and then dust with matt to get the best of both worlds: strength and look.
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Beautiful job :-))
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Cheers I'm well pleased but still some awkward bits to overcome :o
I'm more pleased that I've nearly kept my promise. Early in the thread I complained that there are numerous articles where someone started a Portgarth and they all petered out nowhere near finished and I promised I would. Not far now :-))
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I applaud your commitment considering some of the hurdles you have had to overcome. A testament to your patience and craftsmanship Andy. Bravo sir.
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I applaud your commitment considering some of the hurdles you have had to overcome. A testament to your patience and craftsmanship Andy. Bravo sir.
Thanks Stewart :kiss: :-)
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Cheers I'm well pleased but still some awkward bits to overcome :o
I'm more pleased that I've nearly kept my promise. Early in the thread I complained that there are numerous articles where someone started a Portgarth and they all petered out nowhere near finished and I promised I would. Not far now :-))
Thank you once again for such a comprehensive build log. I did message you a while ago concerning my own build. I have basically started again since reading your log. I have removed prop shafts, kort nozzles, deck supports etc. I took the mold markings as gospel. There not. Thats when I found that the prop shafts were out of alinement. Even where the bulwarks (where they drop down in height) don't line up when squared up with the hull centreline that I have now managed to sort out. It has proved very difficult to get any sort of date line.
I have now established a true centreline.
One question for you - is paxoline robust enough for tapping a thread into.
Graham
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Well done Graham
Yes I have throughout repeatedly drilled and taped it
Starting with my motor mounts and all the hatch fixings
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Paxolin is bloomin hard!
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I use a wood cutting blade in my makita 18 volt jigsaw
Drill with HSS bits
Sanding is hard so cut accurate to minimise the need
Abrade surfaces to be glued or painted, only needs matting off.
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I currently have cause to be using P38 and I've been waiting for the opportunity to do an alteration to the inflatable boat I bought from MMB. Ideal dimensions but completely flat bottomed.
So I CA'd a strip of brass down the centre line and filled. This didn't give quite enough angle so I glued another strip of brass on top and repeated.
Just one of many changes to come around a basically sound building block.
Now fits the cradle much better like the real one.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-qHbKrLj/0/90c3b22d/XL/00115FA9-6B93-473A-BEAC-015152418454-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-GZq2z66/0/ad25f1de/X2/5045E7CD-ED17-4A2F-9AF2-108D727F2A4E-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-KmQqgct/0/955cc62e/XL/6C591C0E-88C2-4B29-9DD0-B80809970C2C-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-CphGjGw/0/1fc39bfd/X2/C03552F2-0BCF-49F1-91D8-5F91F47DE6E7-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-9NQ9JHK/0/d2478ee8/X3/ED7F8219-C92C-421C-A7F8-B9F62A8A8C50-X3.jpg)
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D shape styrene strip seemed to stick OK with poly cement
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-MFPrcVL/0/c1d5438b/X2/63E8705A-4F1C-45A4-83A9-A5D1C946BA02-X2.jpg)
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Spray cover added.
It's very difficult finding any one example that fits the bill so this will be a product of imagination. A few more details to add but the paint should transform it.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-njMLf66/0/31d7f796/X2/07C46562-A47E-478B-9BF7-64D1B64E3CA1-X2.jpg)
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Very nice work fella, keep it up! :)
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Thanks Daz
Nice to see the thread is being used for reference as the view count keeps on climbing despite my inactivity :-))
The weather seems a long way from being warm so I still cannot do the lacquering. I have no motivation to finish the metalwork until then and I'm busy with other things.
I'd like to think I can make it to Balne Moor 4th March with her just for viewing and the social. 8)
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Hi Andy boat still looking good love the Rib :-)) ,is Balne on the 4 April .
regards John B
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Hi Andy boat still looking good love the Rib :-)) ,is Balne on the 4 April .
regards John B
Thanks John
No it’s
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,60152.msg633523/topicseen.html#msg633523 (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,60152.msg633523/topicseen.html#msg633523)
Then 8th April
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is Balne on the 4 April .
regards John B
John, as Andy has told you the first Balne Moor event is 4th March. That though is a free sail not a dedicated tug tow event. The 8th April is first dedicated towing event. Having said that, there will be a tow in the water at all of our events, so the opportunity to tow is always there.
Coming along nicely as always Andy. Is it going to get it's bum wet towing at Balne sometime soon? :-))
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Not until the deck is lacquered
I don’t want to undo my good work with water ingress for the sake of a little patience :-)
Definitely on the pull this year :-))
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I understand perfectly Andy. For similar reasons it might be a bit longer before
my winter build sees the pond. Won't be there on the 4th anyway.
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I'll be there Andy to give you some pointers .😁😁
John
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What may have happened to T33cno and his formidable build? (https://www.cosgan.de/images/smilie/konfus/n020.gif)
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Was only thinking the same the other day!
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Andy still puts info and videos up on Facebook but left the forum a few months back.
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Andy is a member of Balne Moor MBC and recently he had a go at tug towing.
His boat performed well as can be seen here. It is not quite finished yet though.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/06/19/IMG_0256.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/Bjbto)
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Hi Michael
see you have an event on at Balne this Sunday what time does it run from and what time is it expected to finish.
Thanks
Carl
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Hi Carl,
The event will start at about 10.30 and run until 16.00ish.
The gates are kept open on event days so you'll have no problem getting in.
Hopefully see you sometime on Sunday :-))
Michael
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Still not finished but not forgotten and sailed quite a bit this year. Other projects in the way.
Some pictures to view. Tyres recently added to port side to prevent damage when docking
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-sW4kV3M/0/af9c6572/X3/i-sW4kV3M-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-sH9swGx/0/3fb74bdf/X3/i-sH9swGx-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-cwgjPW8/0/1dfc4bf1/XL/i-cwgjPW8-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-3KTvTtW/0/cc4bcf41/X3/i-3KTvTtW-X3.jpg)
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Thanks Ian. That is the deck house, I've yet to start the wheelhouse :-))
Just bought this Bosch rather than a proxxon vac. £162 delivered from Czech republic
Bosch GAS 20 L SFC
(https://cdn.pji.nu/product/standard/800/2891269.jpg)
(https://i.alza.cz/ImgW.ashx?fd=FotoAddOrig&cd=BOC162b-02&i=1.jpg)
18 months now and this vac has worked its nuts off. It's very important to clean the filter frequently for best performance. I have just this evening bought another filter for swapping out so I can continue and service the old at leisure. Cheapest filter I could find was from Germany at just over £20 delivered. I never use a vacuum bag as it seems completely unnecessary.
When used purely for my craft room I have my Proxxon bench sander plugged into the vac so it starts stops via the sander switch
How you liking yours Mark T ?
BTW the very best price I can find today is £193 delivered but some sellers go to £343 {-) <*<
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Portgarth revisited.
I've decided to take a break from lifeboats and spend some time progressing this to a happy conclusion.
Long have I avoided the stair and deckhouse roof railings due to the plans being so wrong. I know whatever I do they won't be right but worse with none at all.
So firstly I cannot solder in place without damaging finished paint, to minimise this I have made a template drilled on my pillar drill that I can flip over to do both sides.
The template is used to pilot drill the stanchion holes in place and then to solder them away from the location.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-f2kXXHT/0/f32d8969/X2/i-f2kXXHT-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-vRFTjg2/0/5afd7a8b/X2/i-vRFTjg2-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-wvvnnt7/0/4fba4154/X2/i-wvvnnt7-X2.jpg)
At the same time trying to leave maximum width on stairs that are too narrow. It will only be possible to do the outboard rails as simply not enough room for rails both sides.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-SZMVzSD/0/34b5729b/X2/i-SZMVzSD-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-F984qRL/0/cbd59556/X2/i-F984qRL-X2.jpg)
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A tool tip without intending to teach egg sucking.
I bought this sometime ago from Leeds Model Shop surprisingly cheap.
My proxxon (dremel ) electric drill on flex shaft is just too difficult to control and I could foresee the merit of this Archimedes that takes up to 2mm bits
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-XLk5nm3/0/bad349dc/X2/i-XLk5nm3-X2.jpg)
To drill through the template not shown. (previous post)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-SZNHqd3/0/3d8fbb19/X2/i-SZNHqd3-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-6BNjSnP/0/8c604864/X2/i-6BNjSnP-X2.jpg)
If all goes well my railings will be a purely interference fit to the deck without adhesive just like the wheelhouse roof and mast
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The template is working great as a soldering jig. A couple of stanchions can be soldered in situ without damage to paint then transferred to the jig for remaining work. Moving back and forth between site & jig to check and adjust.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-M84ZsTW/0/b15ee84a/X2/i-M84ZsTW-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-Dq6j2ZH/0/597e619e/X2/i-Dq6j2ZH-X2.jpg)
Here I hope you can see how I have cranked the stair rail outwards to the first stanchion that has a 90 bend at the top. This creates an illusion that the stair is wider than it is.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-86s6tBd/0/1dbc5b65/X2/i-86s6tBd-X2.jpg)
Some minor adjustment to make but the rest of the cross rails can now be soldered off site
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-jtHN9bZ/0/cfaec686/X2/i-jtHN9bZ-X2.jpg)
Photo by Kevgarth
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Portgarth/i-nKWnxF5/0/18029e1b/X2/IMG_1321-X2.jpg)
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Looking good Andy very neat build :-)) :-)) .
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Cheers John and yours are awesome :-)) I will have to try building with plasticard on my future builds O0
Nice to see you at Warwick and your fleet 8)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-cBFTCdL/0/cd40db1d/X3/FC7A0434-AB22-4B15-BF21-662428DC7883-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-zrxHmws/0/db1ca0e6/X3/9D563B7D-F4E7-46FC-9697-62C8D0D38381-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-X8PmN6J/0/88ef3e01/X3/51C70327-C817-4F00-BC2E-3C5F014D54D9-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-dT3vd4V/0/afa461f1/X3/C6A43ECC-522D-4E82-992B-BE963E2ED21E-X3.jpg)
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Thanks mate, stay with the wood i find it easier to use :-))
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:-))
I just discovered K&S brass rod by the yd or metre at hobby king very much cheaper than UK
Spent £100 on a large variety of sizes with delivery free from europe
60 lengths from 0.5 to 3.5
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Port side nearly there
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-MdPJ9VQ/0/d9effa17/X2/i-MdPJ9VQ-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-MT5x87z/0/858e37a7/X2/i-MT5x87z-X2.jpg)
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That last post made me think of TugKenny R.I.P he really loved my pictures and build. :(( God bless not forgotten!
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Stair stanchions added and now I'm going to do starboard before the bottom stair landing. There should be a pivoting frame that despatches a lifering over the side but I would struggle to do that so will give them a miss. Still the life raft frames to make though as I don't like the white metal ones
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-HgkzF5q/0/7286edf6/X3/i-HgkzF5q-X3.jpg)
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Do you mean "Companionway" stanchions Andy...……...we only have stairs in and around buildings! %% O0 :-))
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Prolly :-))
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Just been to the theatre to see Jersey boys. Musical of Frankie Valli :-))
So starboard companionway :-)) part only.
Initial set up using any means to hold parts ready for a solder tack
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-bQxCvQR/0/e0b38c02/X2/i-bQxCvQR-X2.jpg)
Then back to the jig to reinforce
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-kpZmVJW/0/65f4d8ba/X2/i-kpZmVJW-X2.jpg)
Back and forth checking but now ready for lower rails
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-9hkrmSR/0/8868b12e/X3/i-9hkrmSR-X3.jpg)
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So starboard companionway :-))
quote]
:-)) :-)) :-))
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The beauty of model making is you can change your agenda at will with no one to answer to and sometimes it pays to follow an idea while it is hot in the mind.
So I digress and start having a go at the life raft launchers.
Part built in the last two hours I just need to make two support brackets and devise pin fixings to avoid spoiling paintwork.
The Liferafts are Graupner and much nicer than the supplied offerings likewise with the white metal parts.
All the pleasure comes from the initial creation and unfortunately repeating it for the other side is an anticlimax/tedious {:-{
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-zd7Qq5k/0/879df19c/X2/i-zd7Qq5k-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-FQxHrF8/0/199e6af9/X2/i-FQxHrF8-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-QcwSc38/0/47d68211/X2/i-QcwSc38-X2.jpg)
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Happy chappie :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-DW8GKCt/0/b954857f/X2/i-DW8GKCt-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-wdmcHGN/0/9cd1faf9/X2/i-wdmcHGN-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-St729Rw/0/8ba0ff1a/X2/i-St729Rw-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-fGrv8S5/0/47da517e/X2/i-fGrv8S5-X2.jpg)
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Looks good :-))
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Thank you Tim :-)
I'm now thinking perhaps the lifering launcher is not out of the question {-) It has gone so well today that I'll keep it on the back burner for really really a.n.a.l. extras at the end %%
Until later! time for Strictly :embarrassed:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-2vsWgFM/0/fa4e368a/X2/i-2vsWgFM-X2.jpg)
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Has anyone noticed a slightly better picture quality ?
I stepped up to an iPhone XsMax from last years X
:-))
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Hi AndyClad you are carring this build on. I has been great to watch. The hand rails look great. Have you tought about making the life canster frame a working rc feature?John
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Hi John
Not really but anything can happen. It feels refreshing to take a break from what I thought might be a 3 month build {-) and Portgarth is as happy as I am to be resurrected :-)) might just finish her before 2nd anniversary
Thanks :-))
Turning into a lovely lady despite having big balls {-)
Maltby may be up next, so much fun with tugs
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-748jCWF/0/103a1f35/X3/i-748jCWF-X3.jpg)
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I did notice in the many months off this build that the page view count just kept on growing :-))
I mentioned this to Martin months ago and can only conclude that there are a growing number of Portgarth builders finding this helpful as a resource. I know that on the web all other builds dried up a long way short to my disappointment :(( hence my determination to see it through 8)
Did anyone buy a Portgarth at the MMM open day today ?
P.S anyone following this thread from the start will know it is the product of some very key advice from forum members along the way :-)
There are many things I would do different in hind sight and will definitely do the entire deck in paxolin in future
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A good weekend all in all. Both life raft launchers complete and railings almost there too.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-fcCqKJL/0/61b4ed46/X2/i-fcCqKJL-X2.jpg)
Brass art
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-sSHJPSj/0/1b0ef41a/X2/i-sSHJPSj-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-3dCjj5S/0/4bd7a325/X2/i-3dCjj5S-X2.jpg)
Next I can move on to the mast or look at options for the companionway landing and railings that are all wrong. I will have to create a floating deck space and forget looking like the real deal
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-TTXWHkk/0/1e8b6228/XL/i-TTXWHkk-XL.jpg)
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It is nearly a year since I first formed those top rails and only one minor bend adjustment was needed
Flashback https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,57583.msg627447.html#msg627447
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I have along the way with another build learned that the best primer for brass is Tamiya plastic/metal primer in my experience. The extra fine light grey is best and followed by white if needing a light colour top coat.
These recently made parts will be Rover Arum white same as the superstructure
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I did notice in the many months off this build that the page view count just kept on growing :-))
AYE...……….Andy...….nothing really significant in that, ……….one of my lifeboat builds has past the 1/4 of a million views and I haven't done a stroke of work on those for 5 years but number of views still rising, and collectively my posts have run up over 1.5 million views SINCE the big melt down ( god knows what the count would have been had posts not been wiped in the big crash)...……..doesn't mean that they are all building lifeboats...…….just that they are looking and reading....
People like Mike Pendlebury, and other present members, plus some other members now sadly departed such as Tug Kenny
have probably got even more that myself and others, and they haven't posted for years.
Lets face it...…..Martin (admin) has millions of views and he hasn't built a boat in ages, {-) {-) {-)
It's not the quantity, but the quality of the posts...….but keep at it, you'll get there one day O0
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I guess it’s doing ok then for 20 months opposed to 7 yrs :-))
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I guess it’s doing ok then for 20 months opposed to 7 yrs :-))
yeh……..but who's really counting in the end...…..
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Last night I added this extra handrail which I think looks ok from side and front as long as not viewed square on from the stern.
A slow down now as I’ve chosen to work this week
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-XN8QRQ7/0/960a4aec/X3/i-XN8QRQ7-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-XbJTqXT/0/fadd88af/X2/i-XbJTqXT-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-pzz9HKL/0/3ea6dcf8/X2/i-pzz9HKL-X2.jpg)
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Doesn’t get much better than radio2 and getting paid while fitting your model bits in :-)) O0 {-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-q5FZDh5/0/15729169/X2/i-q5FZDh5-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-6XBhFkM/0/3070bb44/X2/i-6XBhFkM-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-wxLG7rW/0/807bbdb9/X2/i-wxLG7rW-X2.jpg)
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that's an odd looking tool, andy………..what is it for.
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Looking and Listening
Makita torch radio
Ned
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Yes as Ned said :-)) quite cheap too if you already have Makita batteries
Edit correction! I just looked on line and gobsmacked as I only paid about £35
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Yes as Ned said :-)) quite cheap too if you already have Makita batteries
Edit correction! I just looked on line and gobsmacked as I only paid about £35
well, that stumped me.....thought it was some sort of heat gun or something even more mysterious......cheers guys
ya live and learn.
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Sneaked a bit more painting in at work
The white primer on the railings and Halfords appliance white on the life rafts.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-SZpd9xS/0/fc1398f4/X2/i-SZpd9xS-X2.jpg)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-kwkH66B/0/30087a9d/X3/i-kwkH66B-X3.jpg)
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This week is the first 5 consecutive days at work this year so done well I think to progress with the help of painting in the warm.
I'm going to look at the mast next but not doing lighting
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-hLVjZbk/0/b6a329ac/X2/i-hLVjZbk-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-HHLzpWF/0/a191a5bd/X2/i-HHLzpWF-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZRh7dPH/0/03ac6ff9/X2/i-ZRh7dPH-X2.jpg)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-WbcLTT7/0/ebbadb5f/X3/i-WbcLTT7-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-mkr8z5q/0/5cd8e049/X3/i-mkr8z5q-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-bhkmTDj/0/5e7e4c4b/X2/i-bhkmTDj-X2.jpg)
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I'm thinking how really really terrific this build would be if Billings boats got a grip of it! A completely accurate superstructure and perfect hull Smit Nederland stylee wow.
I'm tug smitten all over again so I'll be making a start on the Svitzer Maltby in the New year, likely the first build with a completely Paxolin deck
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Unfortunate but he looks like he's taking a comfort break {-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-mkr8z5q/0/5cd8e049/X3/i-mkr8z5q-X3.jpg)
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I have just been asked the question. What towing winch have I used?
The winch kit supplied is a type 50A and makes a nice model as do all MMM winches . I recall I complained that not enough tow line is supplied to make it look realistic. One remedy for this could be to substitute the drum for something larger in diameter or as I did us a much longer line which is quite tedious once built {-)
https://www.mobilemarinemodels.com/type-50a-1114-p.asp
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A little break literally as I’m currently sailing the Rhine on a Christmas market cruise :-)) shortly will be mooring at Cologne on our final full day.
Have just passed the famous bridge or it’s remains at Remagen :-)
Not a single tug sighted
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Don't forget the chocolate factory/museum! The Cologne markets are very good. We drove there some years back.
Colin
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I think we moor up near the Lindt factory
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I'm steadily chipping away at the remaining jobs. The beginning of the end for the mast
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-RN3zNsc/0/ae35d226/X2/i-RN3zNsc-X2.jpg)
Purpose made off site stand
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-X24MsXr/0/9645858b/X2/i-X24MsXr-X2.jpg)
I fitted these anchor chain tubes but I think the chain is too small yet. try again
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-3GzRqB5/0/97b2307a/X2/i-3GzRqB5-X2.jpg)
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I am amazed by the superb quality of your workmanship, Taranis!
I have been looking for the right size of the towing hawse, myself.
compared to the size of your crew member, yours looks rather thick. Is it based on research?
In my model 1/33, a five mm string equals more than 16 cm real life. I thought that would be about right. What do you think?
Do you have an idea, where in real life they use steel rope and where soft natural or synthetic rope material?
Also, I have thought that I could simulate a steel rope by simply painting an appropriate string. I wonder, if it works. It would only be for display, of course. I think ropes for tieing, towing business must be more practical (I found a very nice hemp string lately).
Hande
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Thank you Hande
Mine is not to scale :-)
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Finally realised I have too many irons in the fire so a decision had to be made. All projects form a queue now and Portgarth back at the front until I can say completed.
Spent all day siding away as the wife says.
Mast continued
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-RDq8kQS/0/0ddf92a2/X3/i-RDq8kQS-X3.jpg)
I'm putting in all the angled supports for more detail seeing as I've let myself off with lighting her up.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-42V4bZV/0/a20cc74c/X2/i-42V4bZV-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-vsN5Kht/0/61d3d526/X3/i-vsN5Kht-X3.jpg)
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Progress today pretty good.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-n9V2KZ4/0/364bd5e8/X3/i-n9V2KZ4-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-D3LJGHv/0/5aab2635/X3/i-D3LJGHv-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZhPjNFk/0/90d12465/X3/i-ZhPjNFk-X3.jpg)
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Looks really good which H bollards did you use please ?
Thanks
Dave
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Thank you it’s so long ago I don’t remember but they were off the shelf items that I modified. I probably said at the time back along the thread somewhere
EDIT
Looks like page 24 for the rear deck
Front will be earlier
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:-)) Thanks
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Anyone know where I can get a Svitzer flag? or is it more appropriate for an British ensign Edit Red ensign
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-C6sDTsq/0/f73a4261/X3/i-C6sDTsq-X3.jpg)
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Andy,
Mike Allsop of Scale Flags and Ensigns can supply them.
There are two Svitzer flags, the older one with the propeller and the later one which just has the company name- he does both.
My tugs have the later one.
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Excellent thank you Micheal
I have used him before for lifeboat flags so should have Known :embarrassed:
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Here I've used an old decimal half penny to make the platform for a dome shaped navigation device(no idea what it is specifically) I've ordered some dome shaped sticky backed rubber feet and one will be used sprayed white to top it off.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-wgN4FvD/0/87fd4d13/X3/i-wgN4FvD-X3.jpg)
Some more aerials to add yet and two lights on the ladder cage.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-G7RkgGB/0/b842a666/X3/i-G7RkgGB-X3.jpg)
Dome is top right here
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Portgarth/i-W7Hq4hw/0/df050677/X3/IMG_1319-X3.jpg)
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Mast aerials fitted and removable.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-vCcdQn4/0/7a596c21/X3/i-vCcdQn4-X3.jpg)
Best picture available of Portgarth mast
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Portgarth/i-jKfJZvw/0/3b1911c5/O/fullsizeoutput_e04.jpg)
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You must be pleased with that mast! It looks great but what a nightmare to solder.
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Thank you yes I’m pleased
Actually gave myself a big break by forgoing any lighting
Despite being an electrician I hate fiddly little wires and I don’t think it’s worth the effort as she's sweet enough in daylight.
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This morning I've considered how to attach the nav lights to the ladder cage.
This is how I've done it
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-rksgVDK/0/a86f146a/XL/BB77C6E9-F14C-43C8-8E43-88783844CACD-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-prC669B/0/ef773183/XL/6864E8D9-B07B-4347-9BD3-3A79A2B05FA9-XL.jpg)
Then soldered and bent so it grips the light base which again will be soldered
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-LrpFzwJ/0/a0140aa6/XL/84300907-A1F8-438F-ABC0-517456F90F47-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-F5Vff7N/0/61ea04b6/X2/65464C10-9584-4244-90E1-980CC9FF5C6F-X2.jpg)
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Not much more now before painting. Great to have consecutive days free at it
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-pGvP9vK/0/0a0fd0af/X3/302905A4-FA14-4D3E-8080-B82DC6D7FAD7-X3.jpg)
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The little dome is probably a GPS antenna. Looks the right size and position, although if someone else knows different I will bow to superior knowledge.
Greg
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Cheers Greg I figured satellite dome so similar idea
I like GPS :-)) better
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Seeing the S in GPS is satellite you are both correct.
Ned
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Kind of you Ned but to be fair I was thinking more the type for finding the porn channel %% {-)
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Seeing the S in GPS is satellite you are both correct.
Ned
Actually, S is for System - as in Global Positioning System - but since it's satellite based, I'll let it count :}
Awesome detail work on that mast and ladder cage. Blows me away!
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Thank you and the admiration is very much mutual Love yours too :-))
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Fuller image
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-TpBqdxd/0/f70e860e/X3/64CCF8F5-453B-4296-ABB7-4741D4AD3321-X3.jpg)
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This final aerial was a problem but I’ve overcome by drilling two small holes in the stanchion and I think it is a good enough fit not to glue it.
There are other small aerials but I think I done enough with four
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-gbT4JZd/0/6a6264ed/X3/AEB6F4FE-062C-4014-87BF-FA1EAA1F296A-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-z5CxKn4/0/66b3f556/X2/C83F95ED-E848-4E6A-ABC2-206AC0CFB773-X2.jpg)
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Nice tidy job Andy :-))
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Thanks Mark :-)
Not the right blue but a good base coat.
Assembled for effect. Renault Royal blue on Saturday
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-CkvRbzq/1/cf7ba7a8/X3/8019B53E-D352-4EE4-B17C-69E02152E2F3-X3.jpg)
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I am amazed by the superb quality of your workmanship, Taranis!
I have been looking for the right size of the towing hawse, myself.
compared to the size of your crew member, yours looks rather thick. Is it based on research?
In my model 1/33, a five mm string equals more than 16 cm real life. I thought that would be about right. What do you think?
Do you have an idea, where in real life they use steel rope and where soft natural or synthetic rope material?
Also, I have thought that I could simulate a steel rope by simply painting an appropriate string. I wonder, if it works. It would only be for display, of course. I think ropes for tieing, towing business must be more practical (I found a very nice hemp string lately).
Hande
Smaller rope fitted with a nice weave :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-zn2P3Ph/0/7f88a121/X2/E88A21E1-2730-454A-88FE-DDC59532A197-X2.jpg)
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All those familiar with building a Portgarth will be aware of the plan and templates being wrong leading to a completely inadequate companionway landing. Now the mast is under control I am focusing on this issue and a sympathetic solution.
The problem
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-jSMgxTv/0/ab1deece/X2/4AABD2D1-0EC8-48EA-9AC3-581C28AB914B-X2.jpg)
My first idea comprising of paxolin and railing.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-d34TpFh/0/29dd5d6d/X2/FB867835-9F63-49AD-9468-C61D615F4471-X2.jpg)
The general idea. I cant really overcook this or it will cause issues with removing the superstructure.
I can use perhaps a Fire box fitted to the paxolin with long brass pins to plug it straight into the deck riser.
This initial assembly will be fully finished in Rover Arum white to match
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-qgHM997/0/257d8629/X2/1CE45760-A0F5-4C3A-9878-D231FF35BA88-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-XnpPhZQ/0/59c19731/X2/41C69E89-D1F1-4364-ACF0-3B388C7B14BA-X2.jpg)
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I think that works for me and additional detail will enhance them. Best of a bad job sorted.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-4JmHNrg/0/12e7aeda/X2/2D02AC7D-0C58-4B76-8626-4898992737E0-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-X8XQHmk/0/f5dc876f/X2/92DEE455-703B-487D-A358-D916BCDFF0C1-X2.jpg)
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I’ve now ordered the flags with lines attached
Red ensign and both Svitzer flags
Cheap as chips excellent service
Thank you Mike & Mike :-))
Thank you for your enquiry, all these flags are available with lines I use white cord of 20inch length if you need longer please let me know. The flag sizes are Red ensign 50x25mm . The house flags are both 36x24mm. Total costs for flags, P&P, and lines is £11.00.
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Mast is now painted in renault royal blue despite the weather.
Now I could do with advice here on the colour of the lights. The port side red/white/red are obvious but the forward facing centre 3 / mast head and rear facing pair are not so easy
(https://photos.marinetraffic.com/ais/showphoto.aspx?photoid=1146500&size=full)
Meanwhile I was drawn to finishing off with a fifth aerial
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-S4Z5HFj/0/0a27b3cf/X2/76C26F2C-326E-483D-A8EF-521B93867469-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-wt3TNGn/0/3c497ab7/X2/C305ED61-854D-4F7B-B827-FF68874CDF47-X2.jpg)
Final assembly in progress
The three lights fitted are set in stone but the rest?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-zcPBSKn/0/90c81475/X2/D240FB29-EABE-453B-A59A-7D0BCD2E086C-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-RqCG2PR/0/3b03421b/X3/48ACA2A9-5B22-4427-A796-A9D15AAED82C-X3.jpg)
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A bigger lens used here for less fish eye. Amazing how clean my glass is {-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-ZLjhS9F/2/2abc5d80/X3/DSC_0568-X3.jpg)
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That really is a lovely build you must be really pleased with your results. Is it finished now or are there a few little jobs left?
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Last 5% I reckon but that’s still a lot as you know the little things take time
Yes I’m very pleased with my apprenticeship {-) Quite amazed myself at the amount of scratch building. If I knew at the start what I know know she’d be so much more accurate. There’s a queue of potential buyers but no one is using enough zeros {-) {-) very unlikely to ever part with her so we’ll see how long the woodwork stands the test of time. I should be finished before the second anniversary of the opening post.I’ll then be back to my lifeboat and try finish that through the summer
Thank you Mark :-))
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Fire plan holder 0.8mm brass wire and plastic pipe.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-ZsHVJ4K/0/827dfad9/X2/05367D56-7DB7-4DB5-A6BD-E4147CB15E23-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-vsfqwVd/0/bd5d2eef/X2/6F6CD409-A994-49EB-A6C6-66973613CF08-X2.jpg)
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Crew entertainment dome or GPS fitted {-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-9PNZcsK/1/c7be781a/X3/DSC_0570-X3.jpg)
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birds eye view
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-bDkxJGR/0/05b84fed/X3/6B9B6E0A-38A6-4616-ABAD-91BCB658EA9E-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-3Zz4Jxc/0/05b5a9cc/X3/2F1D3D2F-4889-46D5-A3CB-43EBC7AD7539-X3.jpg)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-v8jkcGt/0/e647ec9e/X3/22F4D2CC-534C-4891-A660-D5EE694C3171-X3.jpg)
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Mast lights now complete with rear shields on 5 lights. No help on colours forthcoming so it is what it is.
Looking forwards to the flags :-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-zSLhPc4/1/09a6835b/X3/DSC_0572-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-N3K9HxF/1/c97cc781/X3/DSC_0571-X3.jpg)
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I’ve concluded that the dslr camera is rubbish indoors compared to iPhone as it needs very much more light to focus sharp
Apologies for the somewhat off focus shots
iPhone Xsmax wins :-))
I’ll do some outdoor pics when I’ve exhausted adding details
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Up your Asa up to 800 or higher and use the on camera flash Never had any problems with my Canon 750 in shows even gone up to 32000 when needed.
What DSLR and lens are you using
Dave
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Up your asa oops pardon {-)
Nikon on auto otherwise requires thinking about %%
Thanks :-))
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A Nikon well heck that explains one hell of a lot O0 O0 O0 O0 O0 {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
Dave
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Seriously I’m outdoors only with dslr
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Living-World/Birds/i-mGTBz8P/0/b6f20215/O/Swan%204.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Living-World/Birds/i-MwXBtcb/0/23eab46a/O/DSC_0062%20edit.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Living-World/Birds/i-p36vk3L/0/53b28bd0/O/Duckling%201.jpg)
Selfie
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Living-World/Animals/i-CZVDWts/0/cd0854f4/O/Ass%201.jpg)
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Back to the phone camera
Here a view of the paxolin and brass railing section located by the three prongs of a life ring holder
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-hnTG9Pq/0/747e9c97/X3/223BFC64-830A-4190-A5AA-B07199074C42-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-4s4FVZ9/0/69ea8644/X3/EA20A1F5-D544-46EB-9CDC-96590CC12E81-X3.jpg)
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I can only find one outlet for these and similar fittings but my shopping cart comes to less than €25 but shipping is €28 {-) must weigh next to nothing and fit an envelope
Anyone know a better option
http://www.hobby-lobby-modellbau.com/onlineshop/product_info.php/info/p6109_Fire-deleting-Box-16-x-15-mm---1-32---2-pcs---38-50102.html
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Had a great day with a trip to the pictures and some work building new pontoons for Balne Moor (a work in progress)
First thing I was struck by the daylight on her this morning so thought it worthy to share
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-xz3WNKQ/0/bac3c6da/X3/1847D66D-F46E-4ABC-A22F-690F05D7990B-X3.jpg)
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My next project is to try reproduce the life ring launchers
Best picture I have thanks to Kevharth
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Portgarth/i-nKWnxF5/0/18029e1b/X2/IMG_1321-X2.jpg)
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Thank you Mike Allsop flags :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-bZwDcRf/0/6e8e073c/X3/9A3F3911-E925-4699-A1A0-501F529AF596-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-MNcHz6K/0/3d291c4e/X3/E467955C-3E45-4B90-B5E7-7A3B61B77090-X3.jpg)
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First sail this year. The final 1% to do
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Kirklees-MBC/i-dwQWb33/0/1446e9d1/X3/DSC_0650-X3.jpg)
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And there you have a master class build log right there. From start to finish including sea trails :-)) Top job!
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Thank you very much Mark :-)) A little way to go yet.
Just started the ventilation hatches to the rear of the deckhouse.
I thought I'd use paxolin for these as it is so much easier to paint with no grain to fill.
Brass tube again cut for hinges
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-Bdqmb57/0/fdb98637/X2/fullsizeoutput_e40-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-fSMWP6z/0/e68cd0ce/X2/fullsizeoutput_e41-X2.jpg)
These can be simply attached with double sided tape when complete. Mine will for ease be in the closed position
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Portgarth/i-zmxCBQ6/0/59937bb5/X3/IMG_1318-X3.jpg)
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While I'm playing around with scraps of paxolin I looked at this red box with an apex roof. It has a white and green sign on the door but I cannot know what it is. I'm thinking perhaps life jackets or first aid?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-Pjz39wX/0/da5848fc/X2/6B3453FC-325F-45E9-8AAA-AC26E64C2FCD-X2.jpg)
Three different thicknesses were cobbled together with band saw and disc sander. The door is attached with double sided tape so the gap should show up well when sprayed.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-zNbf7KZ/0/03974a62/X2/0B7000A8-2E75-4B01-8E29-6E2AF652977E-X2.jpg)
Approx location
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-ZdZRzcW/0/36cc2418/X2/8D0C269D-4BBB-4795-9DE8-75ABEEAACCE8-X2.jpg)
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That is looking very nice Andy keep pictures coming :-)) .
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Cheers John. Lots to come yet.
The vent covers ready for fitting and I've used some pin eyes sprayed bare metal silver to look like locking bolts.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-PTgMBPm/0/2d50b736/X2/55DFBBC6-0BD2-4684-8FF7-BF071AA0FAC4-X2.jpg)
The forward floodlights have been waiting a long time and I had a go at fitting them with the supplied arm but that's a fail.
A better result with brass strip :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-4Dv3Zp3/0/be46ad23/X2/4EE623FB-B494-4F95-98AA-5A3A484E94B0-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-rBXxbzS/0/57fbc71c/X2/E93CB488-35D6-458D-80DD-868838440B4E-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-7NHLPTQ/0/029ed8fd/X2/6C6C7DDA-2922-4E8E-A441-D1FE5027B50B-X2.jpg)
Waiting for parts to dry before fitting. 1.4mm hex bolts tapped into plywood.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-m3ktH2D/0/4ae25889/X2/BFB62F49-9D08-46DE-895C-A1DFACA5F0C9-X2.jpg)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-GqrKBGL/0/98b16c69/X2/8A2B75E7-A5E3-404E-B870-C6D008FB65E2-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-zDDfRWQ/0/46b21c0d/X2/8DD567C1-892D-4C8A-B388-F0E0B03BA976-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-7JPJPQq/0/c861b0b0/X2/57AD8EC4-3E98-4BB5-81BF-285F37CAFBBC-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-ZMKnTC3/0/99b14cf5/X2/ACCD0416-FC64-4796-BD32-7D29A58C3504-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-WFG28kS/0/2008a88d/X2/AA4508D2-11A9-4599-A6CC-20342140B46B-X2.jpg)
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Very nice crisp build Andy but surprised you have time for building now you've retired
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I don’t Richard {-) only a couple of hours today
Been to model shop across Leeds
Been to B&Q for timber to deck out my Motorhome garage so I can take tug on tour
Did some joinery in the garden before going to dinner at Nando’s as a prelude to the cinema for a pre screening of Serenety
I’m cream crackered %%
Thank you :-))
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That red box is commonly used for fire hoses but would have a red sign on it if that were the case. I suspect it has breathing apparatus in it with this sign:
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Many thanks :-)) not sure where I’ll aquire that %)
Do you know what the red box at the deckhouse front is or a picture even?
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Andy,I take images of signs off the net, scale them down on the computer and then print them on transfer paper.
Not sure which red box you mean at deckhouse front?
I’m afraid I can’t help with pictures.....only what’s on the net!
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Ok thanks for the help :-)
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I don’t Richard {-) only a couple of hours today
Been to model shop across Leeds
Been to B&Q for timber to deck out my Motorhome garage so I can take tug on tour
Did some joinery in the garden before going to dinner at Nando’s as a prelude to the cinema for a pre screening of Serenety
I’m cream crackered %%
Thank you :-))
Now ready for Wicksteed
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-wpkMHPb/0/b680e826/X3/4DB95948-3892-49EB-845E-C3B155F92642-X3.jpg)
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Change the power lead for a generator Andy,
No hook up at Wicky <:(
Ned
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No need Ned but thanks for the heads up :-))
I have 8x125ah batteries and 300watts of solar
Battery banks are split in two and half drive the inverter pictured
Also a 50amp battery to battery charger
Going to Ferry Meadows from Wicksteed
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No need Ned but thanks for the heads up :-))
I have 8x125ah batteries and 300watts of solar
Battery banks are split in two and half drive the inverter pictured
Also a 50amp battery to battery charger
Going to Ferry Meadows from Wicksteed
Is your motorhome a mobile cannabis farm, Andy? I can’t think what else might use all that power! Could be a great weekend if I’m right! :o
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Is your motorhome a mobile cannabis farm, Andy? I can’t think what else might use all that power! Could be a great weekend if I’m right! :o
It’s a woman thing :(( “hairdrier” etc %%
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Back to business
Outboard motor mount . Box section brass with two 90 bends, kinks filed off and internal corners filled with solder. fastened from behind with 2 x2mm CS screws
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-gG3fLC3/0/8a12638b/X2/62B39462-1CCD-4013-A015-2B14E39FCCC1-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-sg9qq7C/0/74556864/X2/26BE6FF8-B45A-4297-947D-B76B74C3D3B6-X2.jpg)
Retaining bar . Notice I have lost the propeller :((
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-rfJbwBZ/0/b2e75012/X2/1FF470BB-8DAC-4E3E-85CF-3869E468870B-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-kKdZfpW/0/b939b65f/X3/5D708C0D-A36D-4F87-8FFB-B38B47055FDF-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-D9ZfBKd/0/628b4b9e/X3/58C09338-9DA3-49FA-907E-7C6F4257B81C-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-MqtPHBZ/0/0e8625dd/X3/19D2793B-41EB-4B92-AA8C-D685009B04B8-X3.jpg)
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0.9% to go {-) {-) {-)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-DFjLknB/0/4f9ea1b8/X3/9E2B4AEC-0CC5-4517-9CFF-0BAAE9948B0A-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-vLqSn6V/0/856e0eb8/X3/BE055D8D-AAB4-43E6-817F-68CDD0BD0B16-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-35qwBQm/0/8c3eb71e/X3/9A8A3ECE-9455-4C81-9975-49B2EA551159-X3.jpg)
Most pleased with this cobbled together light using part of another light fitting, a brass pin and an LED to simulate a glass bowl. A blob of 5 min resin creates the top. There is a painted one in top picture
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-JmSdGdN/0/c0491ffe/X2/F97B2B6C-2C83-41AF-A605-C994283D5045-X2.jpg)
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Very tidy indeed Andy :-))
These panels appear to be 'outward opening' :o .......is this correct?
I would have thought that the Porthgarth Class were full sea going & so such hinged panels were inward opening ?
This could also be an element in the design Classifications between say Lloyds & Det Norsk Verits, ABS ..... or such etc
Derek
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No idea Derek I just copy from photos :-))
There is a picture on the previous page with panels open
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A bit more progress on the RIB. Lots to add before satin or matt lacquer to take the gloss off .
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-6fHGVKr/0/8a75c180/X2/E401DEA8-8995-4112-860C-852A3C3162EA-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-NKfQN2t/0/5564fabb/X2/92D39D52-B2BF-4B8E-AC91-2979B08C7F9B-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-kw35qd3/0/c6627ef4/X2/E1E4F0C6-30B1-4F8E-B2A7-6E8E34F4C784-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-NX84XtD/0/c0e2b787/X3/5F3C2A9F-FB6D-4ED0-B116-5D903046EBF5-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-D5257Dv/0/a867d13b/X2/0D616E0E-ECD5-473D-B596-A89E9816C299-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-kx4n95v/0/1db20596/X2/7C320B21-1150-4CD4-AB22-A2A9A726166E-X2.jpg)
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99.5% %%
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-XtkWHcV/0/c4f75e52/X3/783A4BC2-AC0E-4107-8DED-DBC9BB1CE7E3-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-nmvWw6P/0/4f99ad76/X3/56BB1356-7129-435E-B862-527E0DB9EFE3-X3.jpg)
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Today's job is the start of a storage & transport box for the expensive bits "Crown Jewels" 8)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-ZVsTbT9/0/26ab9e32/X3/FAC86F03-2C76-4136-B18D-FDBBB3D3A340-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-2TbZfj8/0/774248c6/X3/44897B6E-0555-4CE0-92F9-D107D61E37B7-X3.jpg)
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Just the door to do and a coat of paint(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-DV8nQQ6/0/b5d72915/X3/35A8A4F3-B185-42E7-9B0E-3306252A6D22-X3.jpg)
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Hi will she be entering the island endurance event In April?
Stan
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So far she’s going to hooton park and wicksteed
If the weather forecast is good I’ll be there Stan but I’m not clear on the objective. What is the correlation between 1hr and the number of laps? She’s not a speed boat but will run all day at scale speed
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A Jerry can holder for adjacent the outboard motor
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-5h8js9s/0/68edf6c9/XL/03E3C24E-1090-47E3-A635-D670F376466B-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-pTVdS5s/0/358b000e/XL/37539C47-CBB4-4612-8F4C-596CA2E4366D-XL.jpg)
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you not glazing the windows ?
Dave
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No
Actually everyone who's seen it in the flesh like it as it is and agree adding glazing would not improve it. Out on the water you'd never know
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Kirklees-MBC/i-dwQWb33/0/1446e9d1/X3/DSC_0650-X3.jpg)
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It’s raining again so will have to wait but I foresee this in Svitzer colours
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-3WZMgFP/0/1cf870e1/X2/9DE7EA33-9AA8-43A5-BE62-5CA0A087719C-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-bZqSDDN/0/fcc9734b/X3/D641DEAD-08C9-4EF6-B8BB-32588751D357-X3.jpg)
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No
Actually everyone who's seen it in the flesh like it as it is and agree adding glazing would not improve it. Out on the water you'd never know :-)) :-)) :-))
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Kirklees-MBC/i-dwQWb33/0/1446e9d1/X3/DSC_0650-X3.jpg)
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Cheers John
Now I'm making ladders to be lashed across the uprights of the RIB frame.
Not sure if it'll be a double extension yet
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-xCKSR2V/1/e40f7f10/X2/0A158579-156F-4ABB-84BB-35D8FD45F7CB-X2.jpg)
EDIT
This took less than the time that the edit/modify post tab still works.
No glue or solder and tight enough.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-TDMrRXW/0/8343dde0/X3/457ECCFC-3CA9-4E26-90AC-13D68D334D96-X3.jpg)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-sc24wV6/0/408b4d21/X3/65C939CA-03AA-43DF-9DF3-6261D2D8E0E6-X3.jpg)
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Nice work
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Andy, your tug looks the part and she is a real beauty on the water! You might integrate the case you have made into your kitchen?! {-) {-)
I like the idea of constructing the ladder. Where did you get the profiles from?
Regards
Arno
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Thanks Richard :-))
Hi Arno thanks "Kitchen" {-) won't be grey for long :-)
It is just stock K&S
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-Wh47WQG/0/772622bd/X2/31E85C09-9DCF-4844-9B9D-6B6941A79718-X2.jpg)
Square but it looks fine
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-HdcFLXz/0/643a8948/X2/689DE0AA-6449-4939-B13F-FF969A1A5070-X2.jpg)
The mast ladder was from brass strip
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-XxNJCxB/0/30be9cd0/XL/4BEFC423-F0BC-469F-B023-ED686DF53031-XL.jpg)
Also the RIB frame ladder
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-4/i-fDZfFRH/0/4e4ebbb1/X2/FFC5025C-1ECF-48AC-B373-2AA39C91623F-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-Db8jH7Z/0/43f35043/XL/D46EAE7C-42BE-4E2B-BAAD-38A98882EF25-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-ZgqdHH4/0/e8836f9a/X2/FE6AE6C3-F194-425A-9E22-FC4833900428-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-5/i-cpbqFPz/0/be443b29/X2/A56C4B27-DFF3-4586-ADCA-36440D910F41-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-volume-6/i-FrccPzZ/0/2d6d2cae/X3/31F4049E-B1DC-45D7-9F69-A267225E951E-X3.jpg)
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Thanks Andy. I have just placed on order on e**y, the seller is modelshopleeds, so probably your supplier. Better get it done before Brexit kicks in....
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Yes my local shop and I use their mail order too %%
As good as Cornwall models for speed and price but not as big a product range.
I got Graupner 1:32 crew figure from LMS at under £6 each way better than anyone else
FYI I used 1.6mm brass rod too
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A Jerry can holder for adjacent the outboard motor
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-5h8js9s/0/68edf6c9/XL/03E3C24E-1090-47E3-A635-D670F376466B-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-pTVdS5s/0/358b000e/XL/37539C47-CBB4-4612-8F4C-596CA2E4366D-XL.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-cB2h6Hg/0/4d1232a5/X2/EAA29336-3C9D-40EC-9C31-746586FCA8CE-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-vJpLjkT/0/35b5a370/XL/CB90021B-794D-4083-B37C-4909F2F41D2C-XL.jpg)
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A frame ladder
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-CShVCsq/0/9e9c28cc/X3/114B9E72-4777-469B-8133-A911FF1F7C4D-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-xdgtCB7/0/6925cd02/X3/027B2F37-E40B-4A22-A9DA-FAA04A5D81F0-X3.jpg)
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Nice job on the ladders they are tricky to make :-))
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Amazing work. :-))
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Thank you both
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-vq2ptgr/1/4544ccd8/X2/90CAB2D9-C714-438E-8705-20159A994303-X2.jpg)
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-zLw5GS9/0/e70bdf18/X2/565B2B65-0DDD-4996-A7A0-3B84FC286467-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-DT8HL2N/0/55347182/X3/E0CA5BA7-8A41-4974-B6F9-1CA5EA5563DC-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-Xtss52v/0/46b61181/X3/CBF25748-5FFE-485E-8ED4-5CCBE883B29F-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-fmN6pch/0/14a67eec/X3/8842BC21-04E8-4CAB-97BE-9F52CEE46B99-X3.jpg)
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0.4% to go {-) 8 days to second anniversary
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These have been kicking around for so long I wasn't going to bother but I've cut them down so they'd look appropriate in place
My dilemma is paint finish to look plausible? any ideas welcome
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-5r3MZHX/0/3a8e4958/X2/062A4FCF-B8C0-4AA6-B2EF-964732E74D56-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-BpdfQjF/0/495e09e8/X2/6CD8F599-B969-4EB0-9C45-08EF71039A6E-X2.jpg)
This location is constantly wet when making headway so I plan to glue with Everbuild adhesive Stan :-))
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Very tidy ladder construction Andy :-)) .........but am not familiar with the snow shoe shaped ladder appliance
Is it a boarding ladder?...or a slip fit into the extension ladder top rails? [extension to the extension etc]
Derek
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It’s an A frame Derek for want of a better description
Often seen used by window cleaners
Example https://www.ladders4sale.co.uk/Chase-Window-Cleaner-Single-Section-Ladders-144.asp?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjpjkBRDRARIsAKv-0O00fuHURkf1KmhMnReveCnhF5bsj_Pp59YVMVJKjwjm5ac8rD1BdF8aAt8YEALw_wcB (https://www.ladders4sale.co.uk/Chase-Window-Cleaner-Single-Section-Ladders-144.asp?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjpjkBRDRARIsAKv-0O00fuHURkf1KmhMnReveCnhF5bsj_Pp59YVMVJKjwjm5ac8rD1BdF8aAt8YEALw_wcB)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-xdgtCB7/0/6925cd02/X3/027B2F37-E40B-4A22-A9DA-FAA04A5D81F0-X3.jpg)
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I've decided on a one colour scheme
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-78pvxXn/1/dbbc2550/X3/50B6F31E-4F6B-4238-8FC4-6501CA141C1A-X3.jpg)
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This morning I've attached the white metal anchors and I think she looks better with than without.
Attached using Everbuild clear.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-HDP3B5W/0/91c9f91b/X2/1A774005-8AD7-43D3-A2C4-09B24166975C-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-5nJ9WDJ/0/ab1b9c92/X2/66DA3DBE-DF0A-437C-A66A-DAA26AF8524F-X2.jpg)
Crane added to tote box
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-LK6VQ8R/0/5449f7c7/X3/EC9DA012-0058-4056-849A-D41FB5B0DB47-X3.jpg)
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Anchors really finish the bows off nicely Andy. Looks great.
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Cheers Brian. I'm currently attempting to make the deckhouse roof lifering launchers. I'm finding it impossible to copy the original but hope this will look ok and work too.
So far
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-4Ds2N5M/0/69c6b801/X2/76CA184D-3DE5-4A77-8C9B-685FD8C9A4CB-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-XRth4q5/0/f5513b63/X2/765753AE-1642-42B4-9BCF-E7CAD8CAA9AA-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-rh6crtn/0/47f61e11/X2/13443430-E851-41B8-B29F-DE1E93A5E05A-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-2HGtsHK/0/cf649030/X2/4D8BFE6B-FED8-40DB-B1D4-9B7FB47B1470-X2.jpg)
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A bit further
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-TB8XZg9/0/caf077e6/X2/E468813B-2B82-4592-8DA7-D7112F5D62C8-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-m85N7s7/0/1704500c/X2/90B06DD6-A20C-4BA9-92EE-FA93EF2E87D8-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-dWB2cfx/0/38fd847c/X2/994AF6AB-AAF0-4C07-8E2A-DA82FF2B2AAD-X2.jpg)
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Now I've added stops for stored and deployed positions. Ready for primer I think and then the mirror image to produce. Likely locate it with cockpit glue as it has been quite solid on several previous fixings like the deck bollards for example
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-jCNJ5Ct/0/7c6d06dc/X2/3AD3E2A8-980B-4885-8929-D422D5D1ED14-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-fDgMFj7/0/486c36c3/X2/F2D5E3C7-101E-4B8B-BB3F-75912647803F-X2.jpg)
Reverse side. Pivot is a 1.6mm stainless hex bolt that will be fixed with threadlock at a suitable tension.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-F9jLNRd/0/852fbc56/X2/6D657837-E05A-4C6C-BA43-0E4E19B9E124-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-rBnwKnM/0/dbf6dfa1/X2/A2D4C54C-9C86-4CF8-BDE5-87904EB2540F-X2.jpg)
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I've had to revise this to have sufficient clearance from the liferaft. Balne moor tomorrow so that's it for this week.
Is it beer o'clock yet?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-sQjRkd6/0/dde59c21/X2/DD552BC9-D97E-421F-A12D-3622ACE238C0-X2.jpg)
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The box
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-d2SKmCs/0/X2/IMG_0783-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-PdwxjRJ/0/X2/IMG_0784-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-4pnX9L9/1/X2/IMG_0786-X2.jpg)
Here we go
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgarth-build/i-hKQKz3p/0/X2/IMG_0787-X2.jpg)
I could not let today go by without acknowledging or celebrating second anniversary
Early morning at Balne Moor
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Portgarth/i-dg5v4QQ/2/7990672f/X3/DSC_0701-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Portgarth/i-Xgmc9DG/1/0aaf26c9/X3/DSC_0702-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Portgarth/i-KRkf3SZ/1/6c42f76c/X3/DSC_0706-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Portgarth/i-Gr8535s/1/4efcbfb0/X3/DSC_0710-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Portgarth/i-Vk38xNj/1/492bfcc6/X3/DSC_0711-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Portgarth/i-nvW4Dbk/0/f46141fe/X2/DSC_0712-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Portgarth/i-kBZvHhZ/0/535eb99e/X3/DSC_0717-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Portgarth/i-Dqz28Wz/0/b0a8ef8b/X3/DSC_0709-X3.jpg)
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You did a brilliant job, Andy! She looks wonderful on the open water. :-)) :-)) :-))
I have received my square brass tubes from the Model Shop Leeds yesterday. The delivery was quick, so thanks again for your help.
Regards,
Arno
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Thank you Arno. Still not finished but I'm drawing a line under this after the lifering launchers. Back to 13-15 so may not be posting for most of this year. Would love to see more pictures of your work :-))
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Yes Andy, well done on a lovely model. I will be taking many details from it to complete my own Portgarth. I don't know what 13-15 is but look forward to following your next build. Brian
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Thanks Brian. I'll send a pm :-)
13-15 last year
Video
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-2S8HzhZ/0/b8a9da85/X3/i-2S8HzhZ-X3.jpg) (https://techno.smugmug.com/Shannon/Speedline-Shannon-class/n-PcCRt6/i-2S8HzhZ/A)
Scarborough RNLB
(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-N7q62JV/0/94cb0eeb/X2/i-N7q62JV-X2.jpg)
You Tube. Set to full screen and 4K resolution
https://youtu.be/WkA2rRp3s3w (https://youtu.be/WkA2rRp3s3w)
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One detail which is quite prominent on the real boat is what I believe to be the accommodation air filter with a gasket sealing hinged lid.
Not a good angle here unfortunately
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-QtBwDFt/0/ea377274/X2/28E77155-4FE6-477B-A8D0-22F5C46D6739-X2.jpg)
I've resorted to styrene to simulate this and I yet need to create the look of a filter
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-FrqD8QM/0/8a91a54e/X2/D5FB2973-93E0-45A6-93F0-6488E5279D39-X2.jpg)
This will be attached with cockpit glue when painted
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-jjBnTVV/0/7da04a06/X2/5C17AF0C-3CD7-4BC7-BD7D-4C6499504EE4-X2.jpg)
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Took longer than expected but I think it will do. Still the door keep to paint.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-5cF6PFb/0/69cec417/M/Habitation%20filter-M.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-7fvMwCB/0/1b6ab733/X3/0DB5FD78-1A00-4AC7-980A-790EDB2FFB77-X3.jpg)
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Superb rail work Andy.
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Its these little details that make such a difference - lovely job :-))
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Thanks Bill & Tim :-))
First lifering launcher fitted.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-Ff5cdst/0/fd554545/X3/0B7BEB05-94B2-41BA-8CF2-0F0FD5FAC98F-X3.jpg)
And now the liferaft launcher finally fixed with cockpit glue also
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-5s94rD3/0/774227dc/X3/1F039F0B-CC16-4FE6-A8AF-425E9C08308F-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-cPV6pbx/0/22e7e34e/X3/3CE83147-4A2D-463F-8ACC-375D00F0F84C-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-NHwk4Fj/0/fe8e59c1/X3/53D93825-B175-4284-A153-16CBA554D607-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-wSTDMjx/0/43a9df82/X3/79895797-AA44-4E29-B141-FF7551BB8EA0-X3.jpg)
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I’ve always felt that these very nice manufactured life rafts were just a bit too long to compare with Portgarth equipment so I have just cut one in half and rejoined it. Just needs a fettle and recoat of appliance white
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-RcXr8JV/0/7f72c984/X4/82DB21E6-C79C-4A5B-900A-C6FC8D80D4AD-X4.jpg)
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Seems to fit better too. Right decision. :-))
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For sure Brian :-)
Out this morning with a bit of Sun but freezing wind.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Portgarth/i-GSHG5Pc/1/f13fd590/X4/DSC_0731-X4.jpg)
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Whilst still finishing the starboard lifering launcher I have this evening made two lights for the doorways
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-czfqPGn/0/664df6fe/X3/FD1F9A60-0897-458B-8B08-4DC548D3DC40-X3.jpg)
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I’m thinking I’ll still keep seeing things to add but she’s now in a state that I can call believably finished.
All in all while still in employment with the free time available in those circumstance I’d say I spent 17months at this
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-z7KpC6P/0/cdf4d655/4K/7C8286D8-ECC6-4339-BDFA-32C1B21D0BEB-4K.jpg)
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All in all while still in employment with the free time available in those circumstance I’d say I spent 17months at this
Well, yes Andy, but what a result!
With all the adjustments you had to make I'd say the result is outstanding. Congratulations :-))
Regards
Ray
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Thank you Ray much appreciated
Many people are using the blog for help and reference which is the whole point of sharing and the help received here at times was catalytic in sending me the right way, so many thanks to those :-))
I want some nice photos now to turn into canvas prints :-)
I will post them some time O0
Now a workshop tidy and next job.
Edit
I am now using WhatsApp for those who want specific photo help
Pm your mobile if you want photos or any other help
The thread could do with a good deal of editing to condense it
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One regards the RIB
This is converted from this ebay item. The earlier pages cover how to convert this in pictures although quite spread out.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MMB-Resin-cast-model-inflatable-boat-dinghy-kit-145mm/283425639519 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MMB-Resin-cast-model-inflatable-boat-dinghy-kit-145mm/283425639519)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/atUAAOxyc2pTbR3W/s-l1600.jpg)
Still not finished but this is after application of matt lacquer over the latest incarnation. Still lots to do but saved for another day.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-VTsGW87/0/eadb2e4b/X3/CA95054F-81ED-44C1-BECF-CECCB95FFC66-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-bMHQg5t/0/28a2f1db/X3/2F61C1E1-B1FE-4DE9-9A7C-F932D9B60042-X3.jpg)
Then this grating. This is from MMM but not listed on their website. You will find it at their shop or at boat shows
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-QsS88Rt/0/ca24549e/X3/0BC90A4F-E77F-4B94-8E0E-D3F6DE78A936-X3.jpg)
Then there is the position of the bow thruster. I did not take measurements. I just fitted it where it looked OK (Portgarth does not have one)
However if it helps the centre line of mine is 95mm from the front edge of the Skeg. post no 32 for reference
The kort positions
These are detailed at post number 12
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Balne Moor today
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-dWfbnbq/0/70a27c0b/4K/DSC_0003-4K.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-7JJ8DS2/0/fe5a3819/X3/DSC_0010-X3.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-hdQ4tRm/1/3025776a/X4/DSC_0030-X4.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/-1/i-m5j8MKn/1/477bc235/X4/DSC_0001-X4.jpg)
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She's a beaut Andy. I can't wait to get mine on the water. Imagine the possibilities of going sideways with individual motor control and bow thruster. BTW I justified my bow thruster by arguing that because I did not have the Z drives I needed more directional control and the only way was to install the bow thruster. Might not be strictly correct but good enough for me! Happy sailing. Brian
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Cheers Brian. I have enough pictures today to pick a couple of nice large prints and perhaps a canvas 8) There are a few extra signs added but she's done with apart from maintenance and enjoying sailing .
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An absolutely first class build - the process from start to finish is fascinating!
Superb work mate!
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Thank you Phil :-)
Sorry it is such a long thread.
I wish I had access to edit as I’m sure at least ten pages could be culled to make it more fluid and less disjointed.
Watching your build now :-))
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Hi Andy,
congratulations on a wonderful model.
Wilhelm
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Thank you :-)) What are you building next :-)
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Good question Andy, I don't know yet. I am thinking about the "Maggie M" or the "Yorkshireman" tug.
Wilhelm
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MaggieM is very nice. I fancy that too :-))
Same thing yes? Our lass or similar
EDIT no they are different scales. 1:24 Our Lass 1:32 MaggieM
http://www.modelslipway.com (http://www.modelslipway.com)
EDIT again I've just sent email enquiry for Maggie. Wifey likes it
EDIT useful :-)) https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=38892.75
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-Jhbv9tR/0/713d932a/X4/74B2AF1C-77CA-4AFE-A663-FDEB04A7740F-X4.jpg)
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Well, Andy, judging by the image, it's certainly worth the effort.
Note: it took about half a minute for me to realise the background is a banner - I wandered what was holding up the "Sunderland" initially :embarrassed: {-)
Regards,
Ray.
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I'm now feeling the need to make amends for failing to waterproof the underside of my decks.
As a new builder I didn't see any need to do this and no advice in this respect was given.
My decks are not getting physically wet from direct contact but in close proximity to water when sailing the wood is absorbing water content from the air.
This causes small ridges under the deck paintwork due to expansion contraction as the moisture content of the wood changes.
I realised this situation after the first few sailings but the problem has been how do I rectify this.
The only way forward is to remove all the electrics for a start so I have photographed every connection as I've begun dismantling
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Maintainance/i-zW6ZmSr/0/9525f4ac/X3/6297CCB7-0350-45F1-ABBA-A9342C112A15-X3.jpg)
The issue tends to only affect the area where the deck is closest to water which as the aft section.
So now I'm cleared out here including all debris and spilt lubrication.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Maintainance/i-qvpHdQ6/0/db2bef1c/X3/BBB022BD-89C9-423B-9A96-C528531B74AD-X3.jpg)
I plan to invert the hull and bit by bit spray a couple of cans of lacquer in there until I feel the wood has been covered. I'll wait until the hot weather comes back for the wood to be at its driest.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Maintainance/i-CdH5BXK/0/f5acead7/X3/E19F7B05-D17D-4263-A0D4-A805D847548E-X3.jpg)
If I was to start over I would have done the entire deck in Paxolin
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Good decision Andy. Just take photos as you go! Helps a lot when re-assembling. Waiting for warmer weather - presumably the wood also absorbs better when drier and warmer. What is Paxolin?
By the way I am still batting to get enough 1/32 x 3/32 brass strip. K&S say they have discontinued that size of strip. No reason given! They say modelers are ordering 1/4 inch wide and then cutting to size! I want to meet the modelers who are able to do that! I'm going to investigate having stanchions 3D printed.
We battle on!
Cheers for now.
Brian
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Paxolin is all the brown sheet pictured throughout the build Brian :-))
As pictured in the photo above with the motors
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So Paxolin is synthetic. There is a lot to be said for using synthetic where the grain doesn't get in the way. I must go back and see how you did the lining up of the drive train before fixing the motor bases. Cheers for now. Brian
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It's a laminated resin bonded paper.
I've just set up for spraying inside and I'm thinking possibly an external repaint before winter too as she's getting quite weathered {-)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Maintainance/i-ZKHrzbk/0/6f9f2c70/X3/8C976D06-71B4-4F6C-9D8D-1C7857549D46-X3.jpg)
I've used half a large tin of workshop lacquer which has an extra fine spray.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Portgrath/Maintainance/i-GThTF5p/0/382ec784/X3/770B3EF9-19E0-4D00-8B7E-8D62961EDF3F-X3.jpg)
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double post :embarrassed:
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It would take a lot of courage for me to respray my Portgarth. Andy do you use Humbrol? I find it quite costly when spraying large areas like that with Humbrol.
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Halfords is the most used brand for this job and its an automobile paint
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A couple of people mentioned to me yesterday that Portgarth is in the current edition of model boat magazine %% I will have to find a copy O0
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Hi
Have a look at page 53 bottom right hand corner,
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Hi
Have a look at page 53 bottom right hand corner,
Thanks I will when I find a copy :-))
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Found but not bought as it gives credit to another Mayhem member
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Having seen her live this week I think she may be my next Tug (https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-KTFSHtZ/0/b48ffd7a/X4/502B6C11-11C0-4956-A1F2-2DABF69812A5-X4.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Boat-bits/i-PJM3pT7/0/5d07c54f/X4/10D76C82-7DAE-4EE1-8E57-3F10EBCCEEDF-X4.jpg)
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She made it onto MarineTraffic dot Com 8) Must be a first as I've never seen a model accepted before and that isn't when she's completed either
(https://photos.marinetraffic.com/ais/showphoto.aspx?photoid=3445576&size=1600)
(https://photos.marinetraffic.com/ais/showphoto.aspx?photoid=3445578&size=1600)
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Hi Andy, maybe you fooled them :-)) ! I wouldn't be surprised as she looks so good. Well done.
I'm sure you will make a good a good job of Kittiwake. Go for it but be sure to keep us posted on the build please!
I'm busy getting the mast lights done on Portgarth and the wiring to them. Looks like a birds nest at the moment! By the way I did order the voltage reducers from the link given by a member on this forum (thank you). I ordered 6 and by the time they arrived here in SA (via a friend of mine) they were 12! Good deal I say!
Cheers for now and happy sailing. Brian
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Hi Andy,
Sorry for resurrecting this post, but out of interest, what thickness of ply did you use for the wall of the accommodation block on page 22?
regards
Ant
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Are you speaking of this? https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,57583.msg606985.html#msg606985
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Sorry Andy, digit control malfunction, it should have been page 21. It's especially the skin that raps around the front curve.
regards
Ant
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I think the whole frame and back wall are 1/8 supplied with the MMM wood pack. The thin ply I think is 1.5mm
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If I remember correctly the thin ply around the front of the Deckhouse was 1mm. I heated it to bend it around the 90 deg curve. Brian
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Yes I agree 1mm sounds more the mark :-))
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Thanks guys for the info :-))
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I am building a Mobile Marine Afon Alaw. I have read your very detailed description of the build of your tug which has proved very helpful since this is the first boat I have built. During this difficult time the option of going to Halfords to select a paint colour have gone. I particularly like the blue finish of the hull and deck fittings and also the off white of the superstructure and wondered if you could let me know details of the paint used. Your advice would be greatly appeciated.
Peter
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Hi Peter
The superstructure I used Rover Arum white
The hull is Renault royal blue
The deck and lower hull are red primer and everything over coated with satin lacquer
As far as I know all are still available from Halfords online for click and collect at a store near you.
Glad you found my thread useful :-))
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Hi Andy
Thank you for taking the time to reply to my query regarding paint colour. Unfortunately I am having a problem finding the Renault Royal Blue from Halfords. When I search it only comes up with Renault Extreme Blue. Is this the same colour?
Sorry to have to get back to you but your advice appreciated.
Peter
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Looks like it is yet one more colour they have discontinued <:(
There are other royal blues but significantly different
Actually google does come across it at £3 which is a sure sign remaining stock was cleared
They did this last week with Ford balliol blue
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Renault extreme blue is a perlesant paint in other words a metallic and is not at all the same
Dave
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do an ebay search plenty of places that will do a mix up for you
Dave
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-400ml-Car-Paint-Aerosol-ROYAL-BLUE-460/221131937526?hash=item337c7d96f6:g:MxcAAOSwA2hZvvhi (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RENAULT-400ml-Car-Paint-Aerosol-ROYAL-BLUE-460/221131937526?hash=item337c7d96f6:g:MxcAAOSwA2hZvvhi)
You would have to ask them if this is a base coat which will need a laquer over it or a gloss one
Dave
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I think that the paint on Ebay is a base coat. Could this be used and then sprayed with Halfords satin lacquer?
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cant see why not
Dave
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Sorted :-))
Glad I kept some stock
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You would have to ask them if this is a base coat which will need a laquer over it or a gloss on
..gosh that takes me back a bit. My first MR2 had a flat base coat applied by factory before assembly before body colour appied on exterior panels (engine bay, boot ec etc). What a nightmare it was to get base coat match to try and repair some bits as there never was a colour code and nobody had a scanner with long enough lead to reach the car!! Aquaramarine metallic on top of an unmatchable base just added insult to injury, there were something like 12 shades of aquaramarine in the same paint code. Base coat for me means a little different I guess
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Renault Royal Blue ordered on Ebay. Thanks everybody for your help, stay safe
Peter
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Please could you give me some advice regarding the building of the brass mast for my Mobile Marine Models Afon Alaw. When you built your mast and railings, which were to a very high standard, was the soldering done using soft solder or silver solder. My only experience with silver solder is fitting nipples on copper pipe on my steam loco. I would suspect that if I try this on thin tubing the very high temperature would melt the brass. Once again your advice would be appreciated.
Peter
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Hi Peter. I used soft solder. I don't think silver solder is necessary on this application, but then I am not an expert. Soft solder is more than strong enough. Brian
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All my soldering is lead free solder I use a temperature adjustable iron on max 480 degrees and control my solder with duration of contact.
Non of my soldering has ever broken except in a crash and there are far more delicate items on scale models to break for those who are careless. Use a flux paste in the joint and make sure parts are clean before proceeding. I spend a lot of time with needle files shaping each finished joint to my satisfaction. If doing multiple solders like with railings don't worry if they are not straight and square first go but just keep going as once all the joints are done it becomes self supporting so easy then to re adjust ones that were not perfect.
Masking tape is perfect for holding parts it withstands the heat no problem
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Thanks for all your great and detailed advice to a newbie and it is reassuring to know that soft solder has adequate strength for the mast of my tug.
All your help is appreciated, especially the very prompt replies.
Peter
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Anytime Peter :-))
Afon Alaw is a nice boat O0
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All my soldering is lead free solder I use a temperature adjustable iron on max 480 degrees and control my solder with duration of contact.
Non of my soldering has ever broken except in a crash and there are far more delicate items on scale models to break for those who are careless. Use a flux paste in the joint and make sure parts are clean before proceeding. I spend a lot of time with needle files shaping each finished joint to my satisfaction. If doing multiple solders like with railings don't worry if they are not straight and square first go but just keep going as once all the joints are done it becomes self supporting so easy then to re adjust ones that were not perfect.
Masking tape is perfect for holding parts it withstands the heat no problem
Thank you again, Taranis! I, too, will savour this nutshell. I still have the dreaded railings waiting in 30cm long pieces... Hande
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Peter, hand railings are always daunting until you get into them. If the railings have been bent on a decent jig and are all the same they go well and are such a rewarding job when finished. I think a secret is to make sure each rail is bent true to the jig. Good preparation - good result. Enjoy. Brian
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Thanks Brian. I think that it will be an interesting challenge doing the railings so your advice appreciated and I shall look at making a jig to ensure that I create consistent bends. It is the attention to detail that pays rewards on the finished model.
Regards
Peter
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Peter, you will obviously develop your own techniques, but I place a mark at the beginning of every curve and then grip the rail at that point every time or place the centre of the round former at that point every time I bend a rail. That way you get a bend in the rail that corresponds to each of the other rails in the railing. Are you using round or flat stanchions? I am still to develop a technique to manufacture round stanchions for myself. Any ideas? Cheers. Brian
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Andy, sorry to come back with another question. I am now about to start painting the wooden upper structure however from my research I may have a problem with the Sanding Sealer that I have bought. There appears to be a potential chemical reaction to using Acrylic paint on top of Cellulose Sanding Sealer that could cause crazing of the top coat. Having been through your build log you indicate that you used Sanding Sealer and the Halfords Acrylic car paint. Was your SandIng Sealer water or Cellulose based? Are there any risks in what I am trying to do as I would hate to ruin what has been weeks of hard work.
Again any advice appreciated.
Peter
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Pretty certain it was cellulose
Best test on a scrap of wood or use acrylic lacquer to fill grain
Will need just as many coats and just as much sanding
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Once again thanks for your advice Andy, always appreciated.
Peter
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Thank you to all who have contributed tho this blog.
Without it i would not have had the courage to start the Portgarth.
Portgarth is my second build, having just completed the Rotterdam.
Is there ayone out there starting or in the early stages of the build?
regards
Ian
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I used everything I learned building this on my current build with new methods and materials.
This will offer you the option of alternative ways.
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,62247.75.html (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,62247.75.html)
Edit I've just twigged who you are. Welcome to the forum Ian :-)
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Thanks Andy :-))
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It has occurred to me that as I've made such a good job of my thruster holes that this would be a good time to transfer them into a template for future builds or sharing
Good afternoon Andy, by any remote chance did you ever take a template? And if you did any chance of a pic or copy.
Regards Mick
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Sorry but I didn't bother in the end, had any interest been shown at the time I would have done.
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Sorry but I didn't bother in the end, had any interest been shown at the time I would have done.
Thx for messaging back 👍
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Hope these go through. I tried twice.. Perhaps third time lucky. My way of marking the holes for the bow thruster on Portgarth. Hope this is relevant. Cheers. Brian
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Excellent :-)
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Good thinking!
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Brilliant!
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Sorry only just getting use to this post lark
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What super idea, that would have saved me a lot of pain
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https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aeHCn (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aeHCn)
Made a start on my korts today
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Excellent :-)
Brilliant!
What super idea, that would have saved me a lot of pain
That is genius :-)) Probably one of the best tips I've seen!
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So pleased it was useful. I think I got the idea from Model Boats Magazine some time (years!) back. Looking forward to getting back to the building board after some health issues and then moving house, hopefully for the last time!! Enjoy.
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Thank you to all who have contributed tho this blog.
Without it i would not have had the courage to start the Portgarth.
Portgarth is my second build, having just completed the Rotterdam.
Is there ayone out there starting or in the early stages of the build?
regards
Ian
I'm just about to start the build having been encouraged by all that I've read on here. :-))
Regards
Terry
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Enjoy the build Terry. Just a note on the drawing (which I used extensively). Remember the long section is drawn on the centerline. In reality the bottom of the hull will be somewhat higher if you are drawing twin motors on to the plan. Caught me out, I'm afraid to say. Happy modelling. Brian
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Thanks Brian, all help, hints and tips are gratefully received!
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what a stunning build, i even let my fresh cup of coffee go cold, well done
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Thank you this was my first full build and I would do some things differently with hindsight. I might even fit glazing eventually :-)
My more recent Stevns Arctic was built with the benefit of the experience gained with this