Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: FrozenRabbit471 on April 23, 2017, 05:34:23 am
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Hi all,
I have purchased the Smit Rotterdam as my first boat. I have been warned about the increased probability of disaster because of the lack of experience. You see, this is the first vessel I've ever built.
I figured with the research I've done, the camaraderie on a couple good forums I have and a little confidence, what the heck!
I won't be able to start until after next week. I will convert my daughters old room into a craft room. I have a lot of tools bought to get me started. Over time I'll get more. I'm excited. Here's the first pic to start the adventure.
"a slow and steady steam"
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All the very best to you in your endeavours, remember not to dig yourself too big a hole before asking for advice, the people on here are brilliant at problem sorting. I will be watching, and learning.
Martin
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Good luck with your build, as you have said the Smit Rotterdam is not the easiest of kits to start with. my only advice is take your time and enjoy the build. she makes a fantastic model, :-))
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The only thing to fear is fear itself. Thoroughly read the instructions 2 or 3 times before you start, then give it a go. Most of all enjoy yourself. :-))
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This will help
https://techno.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam (https://techno.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam)
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I've always wanted to build the Rotterdam. It encompasses all skills needed to make a decent model boat.
I shall be watching with interest and feel you should have no worries, as we will do our best to help you with any problems you may have. Just work on one section at a time and look at it from all angles.
Cheers
ken
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Great model to build and one I wish I had built from scratch, I've more or less finished renovating one that I bought off ebay and had sat on a shelf for 25+ years it needed a complete overhaul but now looking much better :-))
look forward to seeing your progress, lots of pictures required please :}
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Thanks for the support everyone. It helps more than you know. First question, when I do start, and after all the planks are added to the hull, do I use a filler and sand sand it all before applying the fibreglass cloth? The guy at the hobby store said to just apply the cloth right onto the completed planking of the hull. I was kind of surprised. {:-{
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When I built my first POF hull I covered the outside in masking tape (paper type) then used car body filler to fill the gaps from the inside. After removing the tape and fine sanding the hull I applied the fibreglass and resin.
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Wow. that's an idea. The filler just seeps through from the inside as far as the tape that's on the outside. Sounds like a plan. Anything special for the filler? is there a particular filler that would eat the wood ?
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Just standard P38 car body filler will do and you can get a fibreglass kit in there too you want a fine mesh kit if you can't find in Halfords you can buy this for around £15 on eBay :-))
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Halfords in Alberta ???
Ned
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{-) {-) Perhaps they are international now, sorry hadn't noticed your location so your local car spares shop
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Some pics for the startline
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My old tool chest all cleaned up and filled with my new supplies. It's a start. :-))
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I think I'm more spooked on the RC components and accessories such as the lighting etc than the actual build.
I know the RC and accessories can be expensive, but I get confused on the procedure, placement and proper components required. Motors, esc's, bec's etc. Should I have a dual / paralell motor / esc set up or just a single. Its a head shaker for me.
I guess I'll have to figure all that out when the hull has been completed.
{:-{
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One tip before you start . Is photocopy all the parts . Then you have a set of full size templates in case you need to remake a part
John
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Holy cow. Very good tip. You wouldn't waste any ink at all if you saved it as "scan to pdf", although the compression of the file may render it off scale on the print when you need it. Best copy to print right away. I'll try it on "light B & W fast draft" and post the outcome. But first, I'm going to spend the day numbering the wood tomorrow.
One tip before you start . Is photocopy all the parts . Then you have a set of full size templates in case you need to remake a part
John
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:-))
Like the idea of a tool chest for storage I could get all my suff in and out of the way.
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This is where my Rotterdam build started and up to where I shelved it for a while
http://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/going-to-give-myself-a-tug.144750/page-4#post-2190424 (http://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/going-to-give-myself-a-tug.144750/page-4#post-2190424)
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@T33cno I can't access the photo as I don't have an account for that group. Take a screen shot an post it here in this thread. :-))
This is where my Rotterdam build started and up to where I shelved it for a while
http://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/going-to-give-myself-a-tug.144750/page-4#post-2190424 (http://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/going-to-give-myself-a-tug.144750/page-4#post-2190424)
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timbo, I just did it as a temporary thing, but I like it. haha
:-))
Like the idea of a tool chest for storage I could get all my suff in and out of the way.
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@T33cno I can't access the photo as I don't have an account for that group. Take a screen shot an post it here in this thread. :-))
It's 9 pages
Just register no need to subscribe
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Will do.
It's 9 pages
Just register no need to subscribe
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Hi all,
Today is the first day of the build. I have numbered all the parts on the wooden sheets and highlighted each number on the booklet chart.
Next is the reading, then the physical build begins.
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So day two brings some fun and learning lessons.
The keel come apart twice, so I made up some bracing and glued them on. Perfect!
I never had the assembly in the bow that would house the bow thrusters, all the way in place >:-o
It was glued and I never found out until several rib section down. I had to tack hammer it
in place. I was as nervous I would break it. But it broke free and worked out OK.
The end of day two closed out well as I glued my fingers together. Perfect %)
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You need to fix the keel securely in a straight line or as you progress it will warp and twist trust me !
If it's going to be a working model ignore the build procedure and do not fix the deck . Dry fit it as many times as you need to but no glue :-))
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Are you using superglue ???
David
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Looks that way
I used aliphatic resin glue
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Please alter Rodderdam to Rotterdam .
thank you
David
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Unsure how to edit the thread title David
Please alter Rodderdam to Rotterdam .
thank you
David
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Thanks
David
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Title spelling corrected at OP's request.
Peter Fitness, Moderator.
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Thank you Peter
Title spelling corrected at OP's request.
Peter Fitness, Moderator.
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Today was day 3, This where I realized there's no less fun is ahead, but the easy part is over.
I have completed the hull framing and the prop tube supports.
As per the instructions, the next step is to apply the decking. But luckily from research, I discovered this is something to avoid at this stage. At least until I have the RC components straightened out.
I don't even have my RC components yet as I'm still trying to figure out what to get, how to do it and not to break the bank. Some say, "you can't put a price on a hobby"... Ummm, yes you can.
You don't have to buy the best of the best. If one can't afford it, second best will do. The best can "up and quit too".
So in the meantime, I figure working and completing the exterior of the hull is a good idea.
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When it comes to the selection of radio equipment everyone has his own idea of what is the best, relative to price. Obviously, if you are prepared to pay in excess of $1000 you will get an all singing, all dancing unit, most of the functions of which you will never use on a model boat, but it's not necessary to pay anything like that much for a very capable outfit.
I came to model boating about 14 years ago from RC flying, and some of my radios were state of the art (at the time) and far more capable than I needed for boating. A few years ago I was introduced to the world of 2.4 Ghz and bought a couple of sets from Hobby King. One is the HK branded unit, a good performer, but it has the drawback of needing to be connected to a computer to change the settings , not a big job, but inconvenient. Another I have is also from Hobby King branded Turnigy, which cost me the grand total of $50 Australian, delivered to my door. This is a 6 channel set with servo reversing switches on the front of the case, is easy to use and has all the range I need for boats, plus connection to a PC is not required. I've never had a moment's trouble with it.
Then we come to Electronic Speed Controls (ESCs). Again, everyone has his favourite, but I use Mtroniks almost exclusively, and again, have never experienced a single problem with any of them. The ACTion brand are excellent units, beautifully made, but are considerably dearer, at least, they are here in Australia. I do have one which is a combination twin ESC and mixer, and it is a fabulous unit. I'm sure other members will have different suggestions for you, so in the end it will be up to you to decide.
You are probably already aware of this, but be sure to provide access to all the electrical and mechanical components so you can easily get at them if necessary. You will also need access to the rudder linkage so adjustments can be made if needed. Our club sails in salt water which can even cause brass to corrode, so I remove my rudder posts from their tubes periodically to lightly coat them with grease. All my boats have hatches installed over the rudder assemblies for this purpose.
I look forward to seeing further progress on your model.
Good luck,
Peter.
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Thanks a bunch Peter.
I get a discouraged feeling when it comes to the thought of RC component portion of the build. That said, I also know once I decide on my supplies and approach, that I'll execute the challenge effectively. I won't go all out on the electronics for this build.
As mentioned in my previous posts, I'd love to have a bow thruster, a few dimmed lights and obvious my two motors. I assume it's optimal to have two esc's to which I agree. I will be happy enough with a 4 ch transmitter/receiver for this boat and I think I will use a NiMh battery.
Being that I live on the prairies, watersheds being scarce and frigid -40° weather for 6 months, my boat(s) won't be in the water very often.
Today I have no photo or story (day 4), as I am soaking the balsa plank for bending for the hull bottom. Tomorrow, I will have a progress report.
Peter, your small points of view and suggestion / direction is worth it's weight..... in gold coins!
(have to inject some maritime lingo)
Terry
When it comes to the selection of radio equipment everyone has his own idea of what is the best, relative to price. Obviously, if you are prepared to pay in excess of $1000 you will get an all singing, all dancing unit, most of the functions of which you will never use on a model boat, but it's not necessary to pay anything like that much for a very capable outfit.
I came to model boating about 14 years ago from RC flying, and some of my radios were state of the art (at the time) and far more capable than I needed for boating. A few years ago I was introduced to the world of 2.4 Ghz and bought a couple of sets from Hobby King. One is the HK branded unit, a good performer, but it has the drawback of needing to be connected to a computer to change the settings , not a big job, but inconvenient. Another I have is also from Hobby King branded Turnigy, which cost me the grand total of $50 Australian, delivered to my door. This is a 6 channel set with servo reversing switches on the front of the case, is easy to use and has all the range I need for boats, plus connection to a PC is not required. I've never had a moment's trouble with it.
Then we come to Electronic Speed Controls (ESCs). Again, everyone has his favourite, but I use Mtroniks almost exclusively, and again, have never experienced a single problem with any of them. The ACTion brand are excellent units, beautifully made, but are considerably dearer, at least, they are here in Australia. I do have one which is a combination twin ESC and mixer, and it is a fabulous unit. I'm sure other members will have different suggestions for you, so in the end it will be up to you to decide.
You are probably already aware of this, but be sure to provide access to all the electrical and mechanical components so you can easily get at them if necessary. You will also need access to the rudder linkage so adjustments can be made if needed. Our club sails in salt water which can even cause brass to corrode, so I remove my rudder posts from their tubes periodically to lightly coat them with grease. All my boats have hatches installed over the rudder assemblies for this purpose.
I look forward to seeing further progress on your model.
Good luck,
Peter.
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I lied to Peter, and for that I am ever so sorry.
I told Peter I had nothing to report for Day 4. I figured I should offer something.
Today, I filled a large boiler and dropped in two large floor boards for the bottom of the keel and two lengths that run along the length of either side of the stern. They soaked for about 3 to 4 hours. (a little less for the stern boards, they were tinner).
I applied them using various tools, clamps, tacks etc until I got the curves I "think" would do the trick. I'm wondering if I might have soaked the large keel boards a wee longer.
Here's a few pics. Anchors away!
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Hey all, welcome to day 5.
It's a glue-fingers-together kind of day. I checked the balsa this morning and they were dry. So I broke out the glue. I glued all 4 flat keel bottom and bottom stern pieces and clamped / pinned it all down.
If you notice in one of my pics today (the frontal view) the left side on the bow shows a slight buckle. This tells me there might have been a couple spots that was not as wet as others. And / or, it is between partitions. I hope this can be easily corrected it has some putty or filler before I cloth.
I may do some other things with the build today while the frame is curing.
Here are a few pics.
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I would guess the 'buckle' is down to the keel not being secured straight and true on your build board. Each frame should have been secured in place square and true as well, until the glue had cured, then move onto the next one. The action of glue drying will 'pull' the keel out of true. I am afraid you may struggle to get rid of it. You may be able to correct it now before you add any more parts.
Hopefully more experienced builders can help out.
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I think you are attempting too many pieces at once. What adhesive are you using? you mention balsa? but all those parts are plywood.
I affixed the sides first then the base panels one at a time.
Have you sanded the edge of the bulkheads to the shape of the curves so you get 100% contact?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-tMNGB9Z/0/0f5c9170/X2/IMG_0337-X2.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-k5TXdRf/0/b4748c46/X3/IMG_0338-X3.jpg)
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T33cno & bfgstew,
You are both correct in your assumptions. I welcome the criticism and the suggestions. Some say and believe this was too much for my first build. I have no argument, those who think that are right. But as many time I might mess up, the better I'll get at it. It's always been the school of hard knocks for me.
I'm positive about this. All I can do is stand back and gesture obscenities at the boat. It's easy because the boat doesn't say anything back. I'll try to mess with it as I go and hide a few mistakes. My boat will look great for such daunting task.
I can guarantee you, my next hull will be be as true as can be.
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Hey all,
I haven't given up. Just a little busy. As many of you had advised, I have slowed down the rush. I'm glad I did. I can appreciate how and why "some" first timers who build big the first time around, get overwhelmed and quit.
Don't get me wrong. I am not overwhelmed. But I see why and where the advise and concern comes from. The frame is done, that was the easy part. I see now where the patience, the ability to be slow & steady and the nack for precision all comes together.
I have some minor challenges with my hull, but I think I'll be OK. I see how the rest of the build requires what I noted above. I don't have a photo posted, but I do have the forward lower stern to port wraparound applied
(front bow section plywood steamed, bent, dried to fit and glued)
I also had 1 plank attached to the stern keel-prop shaft section! WOOHOO. Then I discovered I had the wrong size plank glued on. That's why it looked weird. Five minutes of my life i will never get back. But I did learn a few new words you won't find in a bible.
So in the end, one hour of work this morning went well.
Sail safe.
:-))
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Well done :-))
No consolation but I used the wrong planks there too! Easy mistake
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Well done sounds like it's coming along, mistakes are fine as long as we all learn by them but it sounds like you are, just keep at it, and if your unsure with anything put a post on here someone is bound to be able to help :-))
Look forward to some more pictures :-)
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As always, thanks for your support
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two led acid batteries vs a good NiMh? please
T
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I don't know how sacrilegious it is, but the more I look at my Smit Rotterdam Build, the more I visualize personal changes I like to make. I don't like the original colors, I think my boat would look better without the forward mast and to down-scale the main mast and also without the deck protection bars. I may even move the stacks just slightly away from the rear wheel house and place the stairs in between each stack and the wheelhouse.
That's just what I see now. I can't see going farther than that, but I'm excited to see the changes. the good thing is, these items can always be added on if I'm wrong.
So, should I be lined up and shot or can you see some fun?
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Have you looked at Action Electronics on Component Shop at the wiring diagram all the info is there for your build .
David
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Have you looked at Action Electronics on Component Shop at the wiring diagram all the info is there for your build .
David
I have David. It's a great resource. thank you
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Lead acid batteries provide ballast as well as power. If you've got the room I would recommend Lead Acid.
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Yes you are going to need somewhere between 3.5 and 4.5 kilos of ballast a 12v 9ah battery is 2.6kg so your well on your way with that I've put in approx 0.8kg as well and it's still sitting a little high,
but I was leaving mine like this at the moment as I'm trying to make a smoke generator unit but cannot find a waterproof box the right size and unsure how to make one so might have to resort to buying something pre made {:-{ i just don't have a lot of room towards the bow inside so might even look at moving the battery forwards and the smoke gen can go midships
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I don't know how sacrilegious it is, but the more I look at my Smit Rotterdam Build, the more I visualize personal changes I like to make. I don't like the original colors, I think my boat would look better without the forward mast and to down-scale the main mast and also without the deck protection bars. I may even move the stacks just slightly away from the rear wheel house and place the stairs in between each stack and the wheelhouse.
That's just what I see now. I can't see going farther than that, but I'm excited to see the changes. the good thing is, these items can always be added on if I'm wrong.
So, should I be lined up and shot or can you see some fun?
It is your model so do with it what you want. The main question you have to ask, and it is more important than any about masts, decks and what 'should' be, is: Are you having fun?
If yes (accepting periods of blue air expletives and stuck fingers) then it does not matter what you do with your model.
I bet that on any website showing lots of photos of the class of Tug you are building, there will be differences in colour, equipment fit, Logo's, funnels, even fenders and what type of old tyres have been slung over the side for extra protection! And don't forget refits.
Have fun with the first model and then if you want, get more particular of the second vessel you want to model. I bought a kit of a WW1 Monitor M15 and have been turning it into M19 with a radically different turret and superstructure fittings.
You are doing fab, and are pacing yourself. But I would be very careful not to damage that lace table cover though, or you might not be allowed to play boat until it has been laundered snow white ;)
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It is your model so do with it what you want. The main question you have to ask, and it is more important than any about masts, decks and what 'should' be, is: Are you having fun?
If yes (accepting periods of blue air expletives and stuck fingers) then it does not matter what you do with your model.
I bet that on any website showing lots of photos of the class of Tug you are building, there will be differences in colour, equipment fit, Logo's, funnels, even fenders and what type of old tyres have been slung over the side for extra protection! And don't forget refits.
Have fun with the first model and then if you want, get more particular of the second vessel you want to model. I bought a kit of a WW1 Monitor M15 and have been turning it into M19 with a radically different turret and superstructure fittings.
You are doing fab, and are pacing yourself. But I would be very careful not to damage that lace table cover though, or you might not be allowed to play boat until it has been laundered snow white ;)
Quite right there are at least 6-7 colour schemes I remember seeing for this ship so yours to do what you like sir :-))
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It is your model so do with it what you want. The main question you have to ask, and it is more important than any about masts, decks and what 'should' be, is: Are you having fun?
If yes (accepting periods of blue air expletives and stuck fingers) then it does not matter what you do with your model.
I bet that on any website showing lots of photos of the class of Tug you are building, there will be differences in colour, equipment fit, Logo's, funnels, even fenders and what type of old tyres have been slung over the side for extra protection! And don't forget refits.
Have fun with the first model and then if you want, get more particular of the second vessel you want to model. I bought a kit of a WW1 Monitor M15 and have been turning it into M19 with a radically different turret and superstructure fittings.
You are doing fab, and are pacing yourself. But I would be very careful not to damage that lace table cover though, or you might not be allowed to play boat until it has been laundered snow white ;)
It is your model so do with it what you want. The main question you have to ask, and it is more important than any about masts, decks and what 'should' be, is: Are you having fun?
If yes (accepting periods of blue air expletives and stuck fingers) then it does not matter what you do with your model.
I bet that on any website showing lots of photos of the class of Tug you are building, there will be differences in colour, equipment fit, Logo's, funnels, even fenders and what type of old tyres have been slung over the side for extra protection! And don't forget refits.
Have fun with the first model and then if you want, get more particular of the second vessel you want to model. I bought a kit of a WW1 Monitor M15 and have been turning it into M19 with a radically different turret and superstructure fittings.
You are doing fab, and are pacing yourself. But I would be very careful not to damage that lace table cover though, or you might not be allowed to play boat until it has been laundered snow white ;)
Balastanksian Good laugh on that last part. wife chuckled.... then she took the cloth. haha
It is your model so do with it what you want. The main question you have to ask, and it is more important than any about masts, decks and what 'should' be, is: Are you having fun?
If yes (accepting periods of blue air expletives and stuck fingers) then it does not matter what you do with your model.
I bet that on any website showing lots of photos of the class of Tug you are building, there will be differences in colour, equipment fit, Logo's, funnels, even fenders and what type of old tyres have been slung over the side for extra protection! And don't forget refits.
Have fun with the first model and then if you want, get more particular of the second vessel you want to model. I bought a kit of a WW1 Monitor M15 and have been turning it into M19 with a radically different turret and superstructure fittings.
You are doing fab, and are pacing yourself. But I would be very careful not to damage that lace table cover though, or you might not be allowed to play boat until it has been laundered snow white ;)
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Thanks a million mates. Strong encouragement and always the given option on direction.
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Howdydoo guys!
I'm just going to skip the daily count. Too hard to remember and it's not important. We can look back at the start date when she's steaming across the pond. I'll send her across from Newfoundland to the UK for her first inspection. Send her back to me with a small Mickey of good brandy!
Here's a couple pics of this morning's move into the spare room. It's awesome.
I added the upper bow lip and a couple more planks on the stern. (propeller shaft area).
Last, I applied some filler to the flat bottom keel.
Cheerio
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Sorry but you need to fit those parts with the deck DRY fitted in place or you CANNOT be sure they are following the edge of the deck.
I think you'll find that if you try the deck now it won't fit without gaps or worse too tight and then you have to trim the deck edge loosing the handrail holes.
The upper bow panels especially are towards the latter stages in fact mine are not fitted yet and the hull is near completion.
I really would follow the pictures in my gallery they are in chronological order and everything fits
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Even on the first page of the album you'll see the mid deck dry fitted before attaching side panels and I do this repeatedly with the rear deck while fitting deck line planks.
https://techno.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-5Ps7Jck (https://techno.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-5Ps7Jck)
example
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-n5vZ2fV/0/7d010718/L/IMG_0374-L.jpg)
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ah. I shall test mine and let you know if I'm lucky or not. {:-{ Big learning curve.
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so, I sized a few things up. The boat looks rough. It's nowhere near the finesse shown in T33cno's build photos. But I am playing the greenhorn card for the foreseeable future.
that's not to say I won't heed the advice you all offer. As you can clearly see, it's too late to repair the mess I made on the bow. It's...... "off". But hey, so am I.
I would say sticks and filler will have to do. I am hellbent on having a solid canoe, making it look good, and operate on the water.
Don't give up on me yet.
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Hey all,
Ive completed the planking the underside of the stern / keel. It may look a little rough but im happy with it. Thus far, my biggest problem will be the the outer upper curved wall of the bow where its supposed to meet the forward deck.
i'll carry on as if i was normal.
Let me know what you think.
Terry
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Hey Andy, I don't know if you've had the opportunity to view my last couple of photos showing your theory to be true.
"If" one were to remove the upper bow side planks, what would be the recommended procedure? Carful use of fine tip x-acto?
Terry
Sorry but you need to fit those parts with the deck DRY fitted in place or you CANNOT be sure they are following the edge of the deck.
I think you'll find that if you try the deck now it won't fit without gaps or worse too tight and then you have to trim the deck edge loosing the handrail holes.
The upper bow panels especially are towards the latter stages in fact mine are not fitted yet and the hull is near completion.
I really would follow the pictures in my gallery they are in chronological order and everything fits
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Really difficult to say Terry. Just how secure do they feel, what glue is it?
Trying with a knife blade is a start. Don't worry about a bit of damage as the bulked frames needed sanding back anyway.
Same applies with the mid deck and rear deck too tho
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I'll take a crack at it. Shoot.. bad choice for words.
Really difficult to say Terry. Just how secure do they feel, what glue is it?
Trying with a knife blade is a start. Don't worry about a bit of damage as the bulked frames needed sanding back anyway.
Same applies with the mid deck and rear deck too tho
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I removed the outer bow planks with only minor damage. "lucky"!
My guess is now, dry fit all decking with tacks and carry on with the hull closure from the bottom.
I am assuming I should dry fit the bow deck first and grind down the forward ribs as needed to draw the large planks in to meet the deck.
Everyone confused? I have myself convinced so I figure I am ok. bahaha
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Its has become clear to me where the issue is, Its not pretty. {:-{
Take note in the 3 photos, largest of the bow ribs back towards the nose of the bow, everything shifts to starboard. Its off quite a bit. I can shift it back toward port by hand with some stress. Im not vexxed with myself at all. I still say its a learning curve. Questtion is, what would be the recommended steps to help fix it?
Terry ok2
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... careful on that chair Terry! ok2
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Bahaha. Good tip!
... careful on that chair Terry! ok2
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Hi all,
I've managed to fix my misalignment issue. I have all decks dry fitted and tacked down. They match up flush. I consider myself lucky.
I will dryfit the bow face plywood back in place so i can start planking the hull.
Question!!! Can tacks be used for the hull planks? Is it a glue only job? Do i glue each plank to just the ribs, or all along each plank as well?
I'd love some opinions on it :-)
Terry
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I used aliphatic resin wood glue and normal practice is to apply the glue to all frames and edges . Excess wipes off easily.
If you look at my gallery you will see I often used pins or any other improvisation that accomplished the need! necessity is the mother of invention.
Well done Terry :-)
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Seems I didn't picture much of the pinning but along the line I started using these Graupner tacks
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-48Wh5BJ/0/4b4d0152/L/IMG_0526-L.jpg)
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I would not get too carried away so far as considering the bow deck at all Terry. There is so much more to consider lower down and work your way up. Here right at the very late stage of my hull I still have not fixed those upper bow panels nor the deck yet and my middle decks are still not fitted until I complete the radio equipment motors etc
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-Kh9Dnpm/0/b21ad5de/L/IMG_0608-L.jpg)
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pins are sometimes hard to get in. If I reach too much resistance I back off. and I listen intently to ensure the wood is not fracturing while pinning.
So the fun of hull planking starts. I've been looking forward to it.
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Looks awesome Andy. I will start from the bottom up. I have to buy more adhesive so maybe I will use what you use. what's the drying time for that product?
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So far my entire boat has been assembled with CA glue (super glue) if I started using aliphatic resin wood glue for the hull, will it affect me using fglass cloth and non polyester resin when done?
I have a large bottle of LePages yellow carpenters glue
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Looks awesome Andy. I will start from the bottom up. I have to buy more adhesive so maybe I will use what you use. what's the drying time for that product?
Firm in an hour ish but fully hard overnight, More forgiving of adjustments CA is too fast
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👍
Firm in an hour ish but fully hard overnight
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General details of aliphatic. I use deluxe materials but that's not a recommendation. http://www.shop4glue.com/aliphatic-resin-waterproof-wood-glue-adhesive-20-c.asp
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Thanks Andy
General details of aliphatic. I use deluxe materials but that's not a recommendation. http://www.shop4glue.com/aliphatic-resin-waterproof-wood-glue-adhesive-20-c.asp
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The ribs have been sanded and the planking of the hull has begun.
"Haste" has no business in the business of boats! <*<
Each step forward I become more aware of the patience and care that's required. It's pointless to think of a date you should commission the boat.
She will steam the water when she's ready.
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Too true. Rushing is a high risk affair.
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So far my entire boat has been assembled with CA glue (super glue) if I started using aliphatic resin wood glue for the hull, will it affect me using fglass cloth and non polyester resin when done?
I have a large bottle of LePages yellow carpenters glue
The aliphatic glue will be no problem when you come to put the glass on the hull. And it gives you a little more working time when gluing your planks in place.
I'm enoying your build. Keep up the good work. :-))
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thanks greg
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Moving right along today. I removed the tacks that held the planks over night as to dry to shape. I then glued them down. Worked out perfect. The small area to be filled with a weird shaped plank between the hull and the main planks was hard to get at to get a good shape. So to make it easier, I used the reverse shape from the laser cut sheet. Anybody confused? Makes perfefect sense to me.
I pinned another tear of planking on each side to dry to shape. [/size]i soaked the planks for about an hour in warm water, flipping them after 15 minutes. [/i]
I figured I should put the second deck cabins in place, and maybe Ill glue it together without securing it down. Im not sure if thats a good idea yet. I think tgats all for today.[/font]
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Looking good Terry nice to see this coming along and also nice to see someone so honest about there mistakes whilst learning new modelling skills
Well done
Paul
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For me Paul its all about the rc / hobby community. As i was doing my research during my transition from rc 1/10 scale crawler and trail trucks to boats, I discovered a wealth of varied opinion and advice on different mediums. These entries, posts, blogs, published works etc ranged from today all the way back to approx 2004. Be it You Tube, facebook groups, web based forums etc, this community is amazing.
In comparison to the rc land based vehicles, there is most certainly a prestige and respectful camaraderie among the members. Yes, there will always be a scattered dork in every group. But for the most part its a solid global hobby.
So I like to be as candid as i can, when i can, thinking i may help someone several years down the road.
Looking good Terry nice to see this coming along and also nice to see someone so honest about there mistakes whilst learning new modelling skills
Well done
Paul
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You are cracking along at a good pace there Terry. You are obviously finding your 'groove' especially as Andy spotted a few points you were able to rectify without any blue air or punctured workshop walls :-))
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laugh! i welcome criticism and inspection. To my advantage I catch on quickl. My next canow will be much better. That said, my Rotterdam is looking just fine. Thanks again to you, Andy and all the guys.
You are cracking along at a good pace there Terry. You are obviously finding your 'groove' especially as Andy spotted a few points you were able to rectify without any blue air or punctured workshop walls :-))
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Don't do any cabins or decks until after the Hull is skinned and you've sealed all the inside. You also need all your running gear fitted. If you follow your proposal it will be a right headache later.
See where I'm coming from?
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-pbbTVn8/0/09fd2cd5/M/IMG_0584-M.jpg)
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Figured as much. I was just dry fitting to size it up. Ill probably put a couple life boats together while i wait to do the next plank.
Don't do any cabins or decks until after the Hull is skinned and you've sealed all the inside. You also need all your running gear fitted. If you follow your proposal it will be a right headache later.
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Hey all,
My wife is pretty heavy into the crosstitch world. This pattern is simply named by its designer as, "Pirate". Since its within the "ship" category, I figured it was worth posting.
If you zoom in you may see the tiny +'s or x's that are stitched to make this. The piece quite large. I'm really proud of her work. Some of them are jaw droppers.
If you're interested to see more. I've added her Instagram Link. Maybe your wife is into needlework. pass on the link. it's another hobby that's amazing.
https://www.instagram.com/staynstitch/ (https://www.instagram.com/staynstitch/)
Cherio
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Dry fitted and glued more planks today and reinstalled the bow, stern and port upper plys.
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Now that is looking neat Terry :-))
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Thanks!
Now that is looking neat Terry :-))
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I got tired of my fingers being jabbed by pins and tacks when I took them from the containers.
So my wife made me this.
#boatbuild #smitrotterdam #rotterdam #tugboat #rcboats #billingboats #modelboats #modelships #hobby
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Fingers jabbed, stuck together, cut by hobby knives, burnt by soldering irons....all part of the fun of model building {-)
Peter.
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Fingers jabbed, stuck together, cut by hobby knives, burnt by soldering irons....all part of the fun of model building {-)
I'm loving it Peter. Where's this hobby been all my life. haha
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No bad progress today. My planking doesn't look the best, but not too shabby for an amateur. Once the hull is all closed in, I'll epoxy the inner hull then the sanding and fibreglassing starts. :-)
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When you come to epoxy the inside of the hull, you might consider laying strips of glass cloth in the epoxy between the frames. This will strengthen and stiffen the planking a little for when you do the sanding and fairing. OK, it will add a little extra weight but I don't think that will be an issue in a hull like this! Just a thought.
Great build - not too shabby at all for an "amateur"! :-)) :-))
Greg
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When you come to epoxy the inside of the hull, you might consider laying strips of glass cloth in the epoxy between the frames. This will strengthen and stiffen the planking a little for when you do the sanding and fairing. OK, it will add a little extra weight but I don't think that will be an issue in a hull like this! Just a thought.
Great build - not too shabby at all for an "amateur"! :-)) :-))
Thanks Greg. I'll follow your lead on that for sure. I bought 2 packs of cloth for that reason. I appreciate all the tips I can get. I'm loving this build.
I intend on installing a bow thruster. One guy recommended drilling / cutting a 20mm hole and order a 30mm thruster.
Hope that's good advice.
Terry
Greg
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Hey all,
I was about to plank this side in. The other side is completely done. I won't be ordering my bow thruster until the end of this month. If I complete the planking here, the only access to the cuddy (inner nose of the bow) will be through the top. The top would be open as I only have the decks pinned down. My intention is to prep and cut 20mm holes but order a 30mm thruster. Can all this be done if I close this planking off?
I've also attached a photo. Regardless of the planking stuff, which of the 3 compartments does the thruster typically get installed?
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Greg's suggestion of laying strips of glass cloth between the frames is a good one, I have done it on all my boats and it certainly strengthens the hull. The added weight is negligible.
Peter.
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Greg's suggestion of laying strips of glass cloth between the frames is a good one, I have done it on all my boats and it certainly strengthens the hull. The added weight is negligible.
Peter.
that's the way I will go once I have this bow thruster thing figured out
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I should be shot! Using this lexan reamer on anything other than "lexan" (RC truck plastic body), is sacrilegious in the RC world.
But, hey what the heck. It worked perfect for reaming a 20mm hole on each side for my bow thruster.
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So..... :o does this indicate the thruster will be located a little off axis and toward the bow in compartment 2?........just before you ream this hole....what is the distance athwart ships for the tube?
Derek
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So..... :o does this indicate the thruster will be located a little off axis and toward the bow in compartment 2?........just before you ream this hole....what is the distance athwart ships for the tube?
Derek
Hi Derick, your guess is right. It is in compartment 2 and 3/4 toward the bow in that compartment. I cant remember the mm measured, but they are true on each side. I realize i should have gone in compartment 3 but i was too nervous to be messing with the structure in there. Im no horribly off.... I think.
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Ahoy :-))
I have a few pics here. You will all throw pie in my face on these pics. Keep in mind, I am a perfectionist, for real!
I majorly messed up on the starboard side planking. In comparison, you can see I did quite well on port.
Before you all make me walk the plank, just know, I'm am still not discouraged in the least. I worked as hard as possible to compensate for the horrible placement and lack of keeping true.
My wife came in the room, as she often does to show interest and cheer me on. When she saw it, she gave me "a look".
The jig was up. I stood up, stepped back and briefly lost all confidence.... briefly.
I strongly considered not posting them as it would have been easy to just post the port side etc. Then I thought about it and concluded that this is a forum to help everyone. If another builder is searching for how not to do planking, well I have those pictures posted here.
So have a look and Post your honest opinions and reviews, for me, and future builders.
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It's all part of the learning curve Terry O0 It's amazing what some filler judiciously applied, and lots of sanding can achieve.
Peter.
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It is not like you're building a galleon were the planking has to be perfect. I would advise that before you start to sand the planking that you fibre glass resin the inside to stiffen up all the planks so that they don't flex when you start to sand back. have a look at my build log of the Clyde lifeboat to give you an idea of what I am talking about.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,55867.msg600754.html#msg600754 (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,55867.msg600754.html#msg600754)
Tiny
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(https://photos.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-mdcpGm6/0/afd6c989/L/IMG_0580-L.jpg)(https://photos.smugmug.com/Smitt-Rotterdam/i-8Lz4vMG/0/743a05ec/L/IMG_0457-L.jpg)
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:o That cloth and resin is messy $#!+ I dont care how experienced you are.
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There is a first time for everything Terry and it is an interesting shape to plank so do not fret over a few dips and bumps. You got the frames sorted and recovered the upper sides, so you have got the difficult bits sorted so far :-))
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There is a first time for everything Terry and it is an interesting shape to plank so do not fret over a few dips and bumps. You got the frames sorted and recovered the upper sides, so you have got the difficult bits sorted so far :-))
lol, i actually felt drained half way through laying it inside. Took the rest of the day off. haha
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The hobby can be draining especially the electrickery. The fittings and weapons are the best bit, but sadly you need a hull and gubbins to carry them around on.
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The hobby can be draining especially the electrickery. The fittings and weapons are the best bit, but sadly you need a hull and gubbins to carry them around on.
I am a Jedi Master and shall tame this beast!
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I know I could have epoxyed this compartment way back in the beginning of the build, but inexperience is at fault. Now I'll know for next time.
Any advise on how the heck to fully coat this compartment now?
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Pour it in and swill it around, messy but does the job.
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Pour it in and swill it around, messy but does the job.
Thought about that. Bottles say 50:50 mix. I guess I'll do the same for the swish! thanks
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Add a drop of IPA to the mix, thins it nicely.
May need to experiment.
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India Pale Ale. {-)
Ned
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I thought that as well !!!!!!!!!!
David
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Aye, we'll be thown overboard. Ill let you guys know how it works out. If you dont hear from me by tomorrow it means I've stuck myself to the hull. :-))
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Often awkward corners are reinforced by pouring someresin in especially at the bows and stern to beef up the areas of 'Bonkage'.
You will do fine, does your local filling station provide gloves at the pump? If so get a few pairs to kep your hands resin free (unless you have already invested in latex/nitrile ones).
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Well fellas, the inner epoxy and glass cloth application is not elegant that's for sure. But, It's done.
When it's all dry and fully hardened I'll cut off the excess and i guess thats it for the inside for now.
Unless you all have anything to add?
While I'm waiting for the RC components to show up, I'll start in on the outside.
Ballastanksian, I bought a full box of neoprene gloves. They're a must have!
Terry
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Looking great Terry, most of what you see now won't be seen in a few week time so no panic :-)) you're doing a grand job though
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Looking great Terry, most of what you see now won't be seen in a few week time so no panic :-)) you're doing a grand job though
Thanks! I feel encouraged by you guys.
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Question guys, the acetate indicated here, is it merely used as a test fit sheet? A couple guys suggested thick paper. This would allow the superstructure to go on and come off the boat easily.
In the diagram, it shows a a pretty big piece, that eventually disappears in further diagrams.
Just a wee stumped.
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Hi all,
I couldn't decide where to place my query as the margins for the subject are so wide. The answers are so vast, it almost becomes complex.
I'm building the Smit Rotterdam by Billing Boats 1:75 scale. I am about to start sanding. I have applied non-polyester resin and 3/4 oz fibreglass cloth to the inside of the hull. Solid as a church! Looks great.
Most builders share either home made ideas or suggest fillers by brand name. This serves well if you're near the same county, province, state or country.
I want to fibreglass the outside of my hull after I have it all filled and sanded smooth. I'd like to know what type of filler is compatible with the type of resin / fibreglass I am using?
Much appreciated mates.😊
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I use car body filler, as this will accept fibreglass resin and can be sanded smooth. Get the sort that doesn't contain 'bits of chopped matt' as you want it smooth before covering.
hope this helps
ken
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If it is car body filler then any resin and matt will be compatable
Dave
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If it is car body filler then any resin and matt will be compatable
Dave
Thanks Dave
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Hey all,
Here is where I'm at right now. Deck 3 cabins.
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%% Wait, hang on! This is the first time I ever used fibreglass putty. I have no finesse in my hand to spread and feather this stuff out.
The initial coat "IS" on right and in every crack, but I think I added too much hardener. That and the amount I put on is a learning curve. It appears to be an epic fail, but she will be a fine ship when I'm done.
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Kenny (Tug) applied lots to his Queen mary some weeks back and look how well that came out! Mind you, he may have used standard repair filler and not the glass reinforced type but it will be interesting to see how it goes.
Will there be copious amounts of glass particles? If so do wear a mask and coveralls, and perhaps sand it down the bottom of your garden!
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Kenny (Tug) applied lots to his Queen mary some weeks back and look how well that came out! Mind you, he may have used standard repair filler and not the glass reinforced type but it will be interesting to see how it goes.
Will there be copious amounts of glass particles? If so do wear a mask and coveralls, and perhaps sand it down the bottom of your garden!
Wish me luck. I'll keep you updated. fingers crossed
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Sorry I'm late with a reply however I don't think anyone answered about the acetate. The reason it is there is to allow you to assemble the superstructure in situ so you get as tight a fit on the coaming as possible, the acetate stops any excess glue bonding it to the deck until you can remove it to the workbench.
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Also there are two types of body filler - the one sold in Halfords for diy use, its quite a 'thick' medium and the hardener supplied means that it sets up quite quickly - typically within 5 minutes.
There is also a type available to the trade (which should be available at your automotive paint suppliers), it is more of a fluid medium, more runny and easier to spread, it also takes longer to set, working time of 20 minutes is normal.
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Sorry I'm late with a reply however I don't think anyone answered about the acetate. The reason it is there is to allow you to assemble the superstructure in situ so you get as tight a fit on the coaming as possible, the acetate stops any excess glue bonding it to the deck until you can remove it to the workbench.
This is what I thought too....If you do not have any acetate I have successfully used sellotape on the past for this purpose. Also a tip for applying filler is to put many thin layers on rather than trying to get it filled in one hit. This has always worked for me and saves lots of elbow grease! Keep at it as I'm sure you build will turn out great :-))
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The kit doesn't supply acetate so I used parchment paper. It give me a precision fit. I have the bow section glued together but not to the boat yet.
The hull has been completly filled, sanded and another fill in certain areas. Ill sand that tomorrow. I've also sanded the window holes a little bit to add some realism, shown in the photo. It hasn't been fine tuned yet.
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This is what I thought too....If you do not have any acetate I have successfully used sellotape on the past for this purpose. Also a tip for applying filler is to put many thin layers on rather than trying to get it filled in one hit. This has always worked for me and saves lots of elbow grease! Keep at it as I'm sure you build will turn out great :-))
thanks skipper
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I did some more sanding and filling, working tiny amounts on the bow face and shaping the bell the way I want it.
had that done by 11 a.m. and feel guilty (haha) not working on the superstructure today. But hey, the real Smit Rotterdam wasn't built in a day.Slow & steady
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Hey all,
I haven't given up. I've simply got derailed by life. I Have done a small bit of work on the lower superstructure in between.
I hope to get back at the hull and get my RC components soon.
Terry
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No rush Terry. The idea is to have as much fun as possible, so the longer it takes, the more fun you have! :} There are some around here (me included) whose builds run into years. Imagine how much pleasure we have derived from simply cutting and sticking bits of wood and plastic! ;)
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No rush Terry. The idea is to have as much fun as possible, so the longer it takes, the more fun you have! :} There are some around here (me included) whose builds run into years. Imagine how much pleasure we have derived from simply cutting and sticking bits of wood and plastic! ;)
I already have places and ideas for "bits & bobs" !
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I've discovered the initial bulk filler application over the hull was the easy part.
The later stages of smaller amounts of filler is like pulling teeth. Very tedious.
It's all a part of it I guess. I am either very lucky or actually have some hidden skills to have pulled of a successful hull despite the not so perfect planking.
The easy part of the build is all behind me now. This is where patience and time really kicks in. I am still loving it.
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The bow & bell are working out great. It's obviously not completed yet. Fill and sand, fill and sand. To the non builders, it doesn't look very good, but it's only due to the various shading of fillers.
The paint and wax will prove to be a masterpiece for this amateur!😁
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Even the small amounts of filling and sanding I have done to date seem like marathon jobs, but you do get there in the end.
She's looking good :-))
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This is just the first coat of primer to show me the hills, valleys and pinholes. I have some more light fill and sanding.
Some areas "look" rough, but the lighting and shading accounts for some of it. This hull is a solid as a church. The inside is very rigid as it's epoxied with fibreglass cloth..... and two clothes pins!
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Cor, you are zooming along!
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Thanks guys. I'm happy with it. I still haven't bought the RC components yet. That's a bit of a hangup. Once I have it in place I can stick the decks in place etc. She will start coming to life then.
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I messed up a few windows on the rear port side of deck 1 cabins. I attempted to repair them but realized I was making it worse. Its one of those times when you just have to realize when to stop!
So I improvised and decided to install "storm covers" over them. After all is sanded down, and window box inner and storm cover trims are applied, it will look better. Ill ensure to install micro hinges to those storm covers guys, no worries
😁
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Its not to late to sort he windows out .The patch that you put over to cover the mistake just cut round it and glue in a piece the same thickness as the side . If you use epoxy when its dry you can recut the window ,or cut the window before you glue in the repair piece .
Only trying to help
David
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Its not to late to sort he windows out .The patch that you put over to cover the mistake just cut round it and glue in a piece the same thickness as the side . If you use epoxy when its dry you can recut the window ,or cut the window before you glue in the repair piece .
Only trying to help
David
Thanks David. I actually used the blanks that you pop out from the windows to begin with. It helped save a couple of them. I'll try what you suggested on a couple. I think the storm cover might look ok when it's all done. I appreciate it very much. Thanks a million
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I don't understand how that's happened as the windows are all laser cut and just need the tiny connecting bits cutting with a blade
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I don't understand how that's happened as the windows are all laser cut and just need the tiny connecting bits cutting with a blade
"carelessness " and "inexperience "
I was trying to feather out the window frames to resemble the look of some older ships. I used a file and ripped to deep. It's all good though. The lessons I've learned from this build through mistakes and folks like you guys are invaluable. My next canoe should be a much better job.
That said, I'm proud of the hull so far. It's strong and fair on all sides.
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Hi everyone. I haven't thrown in the towel. I'm in the midst of preparing to move across the country. I'll get back into it when life gets out of the way.
Terry
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Moving house is no excuses sir! <*<
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Moving house is no excuses sir! <*<
Hahaha
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Have a good move. I hope you are moving near to a good pond/lake to sail on:O)
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Have a good move. I hope you are moving near to a good pond/lake to sail on:O)
thats the plan
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Hey everyone,[/font]
I fell off the grid for a bit. We did move from western Canada to eastern Canada, then back west again. It was fun for me as I love travel. My wife however, not so much. That's where I've been.[/font]
Anyway, we moved from a house to an apartment. I have not lost interest in the least, I want to jump head and eyes back into the boat but it's hard to wrap my head around how to make this build work in an apartment. [/font]
I am mainly concerned about the sanding, glueing and epoxy applications and painting.[/font]
(( Keep in mind )) I live in a region where the temperatures drop to -45C / -49F so patio work is pretty much out.[/font]
Input please.😊[/font]
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Hi Terry, Welcome back. Several members live in apartments such as Danielle (MissyD) and Josse (Tafelzpitz?) so they have first hand experience and solutions to your situation.
If I was living in an apartment with a 'Significant-Other' I would do one of three things:
1, Do heavy sanding*, spraying* and smelly work* during your warmer periods when you can access the patio, and do work that requires little or no major '*' at other times.
2, If you have a utility room, then confine much of your '*' work there with defined plans for mess reduction and orderliness so as to appease 'Sig-Oth' as she might want to/want you to do something chore like and boring when you are in the utility room boat building.
3, Sit 'Sig-Oth' down and have a frank discussion about your intentions and have prepared plans and methods of how you intend to keep the results of '*' to a minimum. And keep to them to prevent nuclear melt down etc.
I am single and my house reflects this! But I have some plans to keep my home habitable as there would be a point where the fumes or dust would affect you as much as your wife. Keep newspapers for putting down and working on to keep mess to an area that can be wrapped up and dumped in one go, and that will absorb spillage giving you enough time to wipe the worst up and dump the paper and mess.
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Thanks for your insight. I may implement some of your suggestions. As soon as I complete a small scall WW2 model plane (P-40B Thunder bolt) Ill start back at the canoe.
Stay tuned for updates.
Terry
Hi Terry, Welcome back. Several members live in apartments such as Danielle (MissyD) and Josse (Tafelzpitz?) so they have first hand experience and solutions to your situation.
If I was living in an apartment with a 'Significant-Other' I would do one of three things:
1, Do heavy sanding*, spraying* and smelly work* during your warmer periods when you can access the patio, and do work that requires little or no major '*' at other times.
2, If you have a utility room, then confine much of your '*' work there with defined plans for mess reduction and orderliness so as to appease 'Sig-Oth' as she might want to/want you to do something chore like and boring when you are in the utility room boat building.
3, Sit 'Sig-Oth' down and have a frank discussion about your intentions and have prepared plans and methods of how you intend to keep the results of '*' to a minimum. And keep to them to prevent nuclear melt down etc.
I am single and my house reflects this! But I have some plans to keep my home habitable as there would be a point where the fumes or dust would affect you as much as your wife. Keep newspapers for putting down and working on to keep mess to an area that can be wrapped up and dumped in one go, and that will absorb spillage giving you enough time to wipe the worst up and dump the paper and mess.
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Several members live in apartments such as Danielle (MissyD) and Josse (Tafelzpitz?) so they have first hand experience and solutions to your situation.
You may have confused me with somebody else (I'm not Josse and I do live in a house where I fortunately have my own workshop), but I once stumbled upon some solutions for model builders with limited space. Check out this video, maybe this gets you some inspirations :-)
https://youtu.be/QhMJoGGUnUk?t=39s (https://youtu.be/QhMJoGGUnUk?t=39s)
This won't help much with the messier work, though. But it may give you an opportunity for smaller detail works without having to move a lot of stuff around every time.
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Well, happy to meet you anyway. thank you for the link.
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You may have confused me with somebody else (I'm not Josse and I do live in a house where I fortunately have my own workshop), but I once stumbled upon some solutions for model builders with limited space. Check out this video, maybe this gets you some inspirations :-)
https://youtu.be/QhMJoGGUnUk?t=39s (https://youtu.be/QhMJoGGUnUk?t=39s)
This won't help much with the messier work, though. But it may give you an opportunity for smaller detail works without having to move a lot of stuff around every time.
Now this is hilarious {-)
Ballastanksian has given me the name Josse in one of his comments. I thought it was a weird habbit in Crewkerne to call new friends Josse. I liked to think it was a friendly gesture anyway... Whoelse do you call Josse, ballastanksian ok2 ?
My man-hole is down in the cellar of our house. Effectively, it’s like working in a room of a flat. I have all the problems with sanding and painting etc. ... and er’inside. (well, guess the fact that it’s downstairs makes things a little better). I’m waiting for the summertime and dry weathers. Sanding is done with a vacuum cleaner close by - very carefully. I paint with acrylics (Vallejo) by airbrush. Window open and two fans blowing outward. protecting my breath. The cellar starts to get a brownish coat of acrylic paint despite of my efforts. I’ve seen some designs of a painting box, but my model is 90 cm long so no painting in a box for the hull and other large parts.
cheers, Hande
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I think he may have confused you with Tweety 777 whos name is Josse {-)
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I think he may have confused you with Tweety 777 whos name is Josse {-)
It's all very confusing lol
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Hi Terry,
any update on your Smit Rotterdam? I am currently in an early stage of the build. My hull is not even closed yet, but I had to take a forced break just like you.I want to get back to building in 2019 though!
Cheers,
Ole
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Hi Terry,
any update on your Smit Rotterdam? I am currently in an early stage of the build. My hull is not even closed yet, but I had to take a forced break just like you.I want to get back to building in 2019 though!
Cheers,
Ole
Happy to help in any way I can Ole just ask or pm :-))