Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => DC Motors (Brushed) and Speed Controllers => Topic started by: amps on May 07, 2017, 06:27:59 pm
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hi all i m in need of some help
i have a bait boat that has a fault with the motor and I'm looking for some suggestions on a replacement
i have pics of the original motor but i am unable to post up due to the size of the files
here is some info on the boat
lake reaper
power 2 x 6 v 4.5 ah sla batteries i can forward pics via email for verification
if any one can help i woud really appreciate it
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GOOGLE is an amazing facility %) .......have you considered contacting the 'Home of Lake Reaper'?... O0
Derek
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Measure the length of the motor can. This will probably be enough of a clue. If it is 54mm long, probably a 540 or a 600, if 38mm, probably a 380 or 400. Are the batteries connected in series or parallel?
Picture file sizes are restricted on this site, but most photo /picture handling programs have a "resize" option.
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the main body is indeed 54mm and the back end has 3 brown looking resistors soldered in a daisy chain formation
and as for contacting the uk supplier they want me to buy the motor and prop shaft system £ 40 i cant e the point in paying that much im on a budget
as fr as im aware the batteries are connected in paralell but i wil confirm
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another pic
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another pic
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pic 4
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last pic
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The three items are capacitors, intended to reduce or eliminate radio interference from the motor.
As to the motor, it looks like a fairly generic 540 with a torque ring and a layer of black paint. If it is a 3 pole motor it is a 540, if a 5, then it's a 545. You check by gently turning the shaft for a full rotation, counting the number of "notches" you feel, then divide that by 2. Neither is particularly expensive, but it might be a good idea to check that the rest of the drive system rotates freely.
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amps, you say the fault is with the motor but why? Does it blow fuses? Is it seized? Does a resistance meter reading show a dead short or open circuit? Are the suppression capacitors themselves faulty or shorting the motor?
The suppression capacitors tell a story themselves. Sometimes a little knowledge is worse than no knowledge at all.
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is it from a anatec bait boat? if so it is a 540 or could be a 600 '
ive repaired a few anatec's and im looking into the replacement motors for someone else''
anatec used graupner motors speed controls radio gear
i see its a lake reaper boat but that motor looks the same as a anatec :-))
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Hi micro gyros. The motor is not blowing fuses and it isn't seized
Basically when I throw the speed stick up in forward or reverse on land the prop will turn with no issues but, as soon as its placed in the water it wont turn as if the water is causing the resistance to stop it from turning.
I have checked the prop shaft and thats fine.
so what else could it be
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i have heard a rumor the anatec and reapers are manufactured by the same company in china
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i have counted the number of notches felt on a full spin and i counted just over 6 1/4 so would i be right in saying that it is a 3 pole ?
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hi micro gyros the motor is not blowing fuses and it isnt seized
basically when i throw the speed stick up in forward or reverse on land the prop will turn with no issues but as soon as its placed in the water it wont turn as ifthe water is causing the resistance to stop it from turning
i have checked the prop shaft and thats fine
so what else could it be
On the information you have given, it could be a cut-out mechanism and could be the battery or the speed controller.
You can test the motor direct from a battery if you so wished.
I'd be testing the battery by now. For good measure I'd test the capacitors are not faulty or causing a short.
I'd replace all three by one single disc ceramic capacitor where the large 470nF (marked 474) cap is.
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Where are you from
Dave
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i have counted the number of notches felt on a full spin and i counted just over 6 1/4 so would i be right in saying that it is a 3 pole ?
Yes, that would make it a 3 pole 540.
If it spins up OK but gets stalled under load, it could, like microgyros says, be the battery or a safety thingy in the ESC. The nice thing about "proper" DC motors is that they can be tested by simply feeding them direct from the battery. This can remove the ESC from the question, but deciding whether the culprit is the motor or battery (not much else left, really, apart from the wiring) will involve substitution of either or both, or using a mutimeter to measure voltages and currents. Looking again at the motor pictures, the visible windings look nice and coppery and shiny rather than cooked. That's one sign that the motor could be healthy. A tired battery can lose its voltage under load, a spare battery is rarely a bad idea.
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batteries are fine as they are brand new but will give the motor a test cirect on them and go from there
hi dave im base in bedfordshire
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as suggested i rad the motor direct from the battery and the motor is turning and continues to run well when i apply some resistance to the shaft
so i can only assume that it is the ecs that is causing the issue
ive been on the reaper site and they sell a replacement thats rated at 60 ah is there an alternative i could use or any recommendations for you gents ?
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I would be checking the controller's voltage spec and whether the battery is delivering enough voltage on load. If not, it is a corroded or dirty contact, an embedded cutout* in the battery pack going faulty, not charged enough or not the correct voltage.
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* multi cell NiMH battery packs have them on occasion.
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that will be difficult as there no info available for it ant the uk supplier wont help me that is why i am looking for a suitable replacement i don't have the skills or electronic knowledge like your self so any help is appreciated
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The 60amp ESC might have been rated in delicate Chinese Amps, as opposed to our robust English ones, and has possibly cooked itself. I would not expect a 540 running on 6 volts to pull a lot of current, but a running test like you did before but with either an ammeter (proper way) or a selection of fuses (rough way) will give a good clue.
The answer would probably be something like an Mtroniks Viper 15 or 25. Thats big, strong, English amps.
Or a 320A one from fleabay. Chinese amps as found in their speed controls are really tiny delicate things.
I'm assuming that the ESC plugs into the receiver in the normal way. If not, things get more complicated.
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go brushless, the motor will be smaller, lighter, more efficient and will never burn out if you look after it, the choice of brushless motors available now is fantastic and there price has become really affordable.
i will never run anything on brushed motors ever again, brushless are 10x better, literally everything i own that was brushed has been converted to brushless.
One place to get great deals is banggood.com everything comes from china and so the prices can be as much as half the price of the same gear in the uk and everything is free shipping and banggood are reliable and trustworthy
I have made 184 orders with them so far and not had a single problem with items not arriving, ive had a couple of faulty items arrive but that happens wherever you shop but they take there reputation and customer service seriously and deal with problems when they occur.
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finally got a replacement ecs and got it wired in and everything started working perfect until i go full stick reverse then instead of running at full power it start's and stops if i increase the sped gradually then there isnt an issue i got the speed controller from amazon its a 320 amp as recomended any thoughts as to why its doing that ?
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finally got a replacement ecs and got it wired in and everything started working perfect until i go full stick reverse then instead of running at full power it start's and stops if i increase the sped gradually then there isnt an issue i got the speed controller from amazon its a 320 amp as recomended any thoughts as to why its doing that ?
It is a cut-out mechanism triggering.
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finally got a replacement ecs and got it wired in and everything started working perfect until i go full stick reverse then instead of running at full power it start's and stops if i increase the sped gradually then there isnt an issue i got the speed controller from amazon its a 320 amp as recomended any thoughts as to why its doing that ?
Re-read the bit that you thought was a recommend. I only mentioned them with the caution that the 320 Amp figure was not to be trusted, being a total fiction. If used well within their limits, they are a cheap and cheerful controller, but it looks like you have found one of their limits.
If it is a fully auto-set device, it is what it is. If it pre-programmed, all that can be done is to re-arrange the transmitter end point to suit.
Sometimes the control logic on some earlier ESCs, when seeing an "out of designed range" pulse, instead of limiting itself to the maximum speed, goes into a panic mode, and switches off. Or just an overload protection cutting in, as suggested, but obviously at a lot less than the 320Amps in the advertising.
I wonder if the 320 refers to it delivering 20Amps 3 times? {:-{
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ok why would it be doint that is there a fix for it
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If the transmitter allows it, set the end point for reverse so it doesn't go that far. Otherwise the only thing available is to use the trim tab to offset the center so that full reverse doesn't hit the cut off point. Or fit an end stop on the transmitter to stop it getting there. Or train your left thumb to avoid the problem. There is a reason why the 320A ESCs cost as little as they do.
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This ESC is a rock crawler unit.
To get full astern you need to select astern TWICE on the transmitter.
The first astern is a brake to stop the motor, the second dip is for reverse.
Bob
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There is a good reason why the same four makes of esc ( mtronics electonize action microgyros ) keep getting recommended on forums. they are very good, easy to use and reliable. I hope you can manage ok with the Chinese one, otherwise it's a few quid wasted.