Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Submarines => Topic started by: bikerdude999 on May 21, 2017, 04:31:58 pm
-
Hi everyone, I bought a sub last week, and went and tried it today, surprisingly it all worked and I only lost it once, then the failsafe kicked it and it resurfaced...
Anyway, I've got a simple question, does the battery and it's connectors need to be waterproof? I ask as the positive terminal on the battery has been bent upwards, and covered in what seems to be candle wax inside a small bottle lid, but then it's just got a spade connector that connects to a blade that protrudes from the front of the WTC. It's got some rubber bellows over it, but it's certainly not watertight. It all seemed to still work under the water, so I assume it doesn't need to be watertight, but the battery didn't last very long, not sure if that's a duff battery or what.
-
Depending on the water condition, distance between the positive and negative terminal and the voltage of the battery, they may be some current taking the shorter way around, so it's always a good idea to insulate the terminals.
The battery you are using I guess is a sealed lead acid type battery, which itself is waterproof.
-
Yes it's a lead acid battery, 12v 3AH. Here's a photo of how it is. Any suggestions on good ways of insulating the terminals? Can they just be coated in some sort of grease, or does it need to be a certain type of water tight connection?
%5BURL=http://s237.photobucket.com/user/bikerdude666/media/Model%20Boats/FD4A38A2-B384-4A7C-890E-A2BEB52DA02A_zpsc0pwrfaa.jpg.html%5D%5BIMG%5Dhttp://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff42/bikerdude666/Model%20Boats/FD4A38A2-B384-4A7C-890E-A2BEB52DA02A_zpsc0pwrfaa.jpg%5B/IMG%5D%5B/URL%5D
-
your link no workee if its photobucket we should see the Pic not the link just click on IMG the URL should highlight so just paste that in your post
-
Didn't think to check the photo had worked! Was trying to do it on the app on my phone as their site has now got almost unusable... I'll try again...
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff42/bikerdude666/Model%20Boats/FD4A38A2-B384-4A7C-890E-A2BEB52DA02A_zpsc0pwrfaa.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/bikerdude666/media/Model%20Boats/FD4A38A2-B384-4A7C-890E-A2BEB52DA02A_zpsc0pwrfaa.jpg.html)
-
Here's some more of the WTC. It seems to have a couple of small leaks, was probably in the water for about 1.5hrs and there was a little water inside the WTC, at both ends. Anyone know what company made it? I was told the hull is a 'Sheerline', but don't know if the WTC system is as well. There seems to be air bubbles coming out the front where the pump sucks in the water, and on another leak where 1 of the prop shafts comes out. Any Idea if this may just need greasing or tightening? It's the shaft nearest the camera.
PS. any pointers on where to get a pitch controller?
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff42/bikerdude666/Model%20Boats/57EF880F-18E4-4B54-BAF7-D6B39DEB0714_zpsdt9gjp0w.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/bikerdude666/media/Model%20Boats/57EF880F-18E4-4B54-BAF7-D6B39DEB0714_zpsdt9gjp0w.jpg.html)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff42/bikerdude666/Model%20Boats/0577D740-2BF1-4953-9C39-66677C5B1F47_zpsbhmcphej.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/bikerdude666/media/Model%20Boats/0577D740-2BF1-4953-9C39-66677C5B1F47_zpsbhmcphej.jpg.html)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff42/bikerdude666/Model%20Boats/F8D7B7E6-B923-40F2-885A-2361E412023A_zpsdosvx93a.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/bikerdude666/media/Model%20Boats/F8D7B7E6-B923-40F2-885A-2361E412023A_zpsdosvx93a.jpg.html)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff42/bikerdude666/Model%20Boats/EFDB0047-D347-4EE3-BCD2-39CFE9B8E5AB_zpso1piqt8i.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/bikerdude666/media/Model%20Boats/EFDB0047-D347-4EE3-BCD2-39CFE9B8E5AB_zpso1piqt8i.jpg.html)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff42/bikerdude666/Model%20Boats/49AFB48C-32F2-43B4-B42D-3CFA5FD01684_zps7hn2ijrg.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/bikerdude666/media/Model%20Boats/49AFB48C-32F2-43B4-B42D-3CFA5FD01684_zps7hn2ijrg.jpg.html)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff42/bikerdude666/Model%20Boats/DB0E13AB-0840-4DF4-BF7E-768A45A51C2A_zpscj8xo5dn.jpg) (http://s237.photobucket.com/user/bikerdude666/media/Model%20Boats/DB0E13AB-0840-4DF4-BF7E-768A45A51C2A_zpscj8xo5dn.jpg.html)
-
Hi I would say that the WTC is a Sheerline product.
-
The WTc is for the Sheerline Type VII. Chris Cloak at Sheerline still services these and can fits new seals for you if needed.
-
I agree with Mankster's advice but just a further observation. I have been operating lead acid batteries in the wet over a number of years without insulated connections. Just use the ordinary spade connectors to connect. A smear of Vaseline on the connector, no problems. (The positive connection turns a little bit green over the years!)
David
-
The WTc is for the Sheerline Type VII. Chris Cloak at Sheerline still services these and can fits new seals for you if needed.
Hi I would say that the WTC is a Sheerline product.
Thanks, I had a feeling the bloke I bought it off said the WTC was from sheerline, but I was in a rush as I had to get back for work so wasn't listening as much as I should have been.
I agree with Mankster's advice but just a further observation. I have been operating lead acid batteries in the wet over a number of years without insulated connections. Just use the ordinary spade connectors to connect. A smear of Vaseline on the connector, no problems. (The positive connection turns a little bit green over the years!) David
Thanks, thats the sort of thing I was thinking, but wasn't sure it'd seal it enough. Alternatively, I could solder wires to the battery and cover then with something then heatshrink, and I've got some bullet connectors with proper rubber covers that I could probably fill with vaseline or marine grease or similar, and cable tie the other end closed.
Anyone know where sheerline are based? If they're not too far I might see about taking it there for a quick checkover.
-
do not use heat shrink or anything permanent. no matter how good you think your waterproofing job is/was, water will find its way in, and then you have to tear it all apart and do it all over again. worse, since everything is covered, you won't know how bad it is until nothing works. use standard battery spades, buy some dielectric grease, and before every run (you have a checklist of things to do, right?) make sure you have the battery terminals covered.
-
http://sheerlinemodelsubmarines.com/contact.htm think you'll find the area code is Great Yarmouth
-
Thanks, didn't think of looking up the area code! A bit far to pop over for a day, but I'm sure I could take my wife for a nice weekend in Norfolk and then 'stumble' upon sheerline....
-
you would be better off ordering on line or even phoning Chris up he is a very nice guy he still supplies seals for his WTC`s he will supply you with any info you need. I dont think you can just cold call at his premises as it`s not run from a shop unit
regards Mark.
-
Mark is right, Chris would appreciate a phone call to arrange a time and a date to visit him. He is a really nice guy, and will go above and beyond the call of duty to help you out.
-
Thanks, I didn't mean it quite so literally... I'd phone and check prices and then arrange it, just wouldn't tell her that...
-
Bet she would find out, especially when you parked up and knocked on his door lol
-
Took the sub to the lake today for it's 2nd sail under my ownership, to test out the OTW sub leveller. Even with a new 12v battery it seems pretty slow, but worst was when it went to the bottom and wouldn't come back up...
Borrowing some waders I went out and collected it, and found that both ends of the WTC were almost completely full of water! Managed to loosen the end caps and drain most of the water out at the lakeside. Once home I took it all apart to see what the damage was, and what the cause was...
Reason it went down was simple, the pipe from the pump to the ballast tank had popped off the connection to the ballast tank, so when I was flooding the tank, I was in fact flooding the front section of the WTC. Damage caused, all 4 servos are knackered, as is the RX. Thankfully the ESC, failsafe unit, sub leveller and motors have survived.
Now a couple of questions, firstly regards a replacement RX. I'm using a Futaba F-14, the now deceased RX was a Futaba 7 or 8 channel unit. I've got some 'Cirrus' 4 channel RX's spare, but the aerial on them is a lot shorter than on the Futaba, anyone know if this will cause issues with running under water? Or is it possible to extend the aerial?
Secondly, what are people's opinions on what size motors should be fitted to a Sheerline Type VII it's around 5'6" long. It's got 2 Graupner speed 500's at the moment, but like I say, it seems underpowered, probably not even getting up to scale speed even on full power.
Next issue (which may be resolved having to fit new servos and RX) is that the more I use the dive planes and rudders, the less they move, until I try and use them and they didn't move at all. I've not idea what could cause this, anyone any ideas?
And lastly, while I'm fitting new bits in it I was going to tidy up the wiring a bit, but as in the photos in 1 of my previous posts above, there are what appear to be several capacitors fitted. One goes from the + to - where the power splits to the ESC and the pump. And then there's 3 or 4 more on various wires around the ballast pump. I can't see why they'd be needed, as surely the pump can just take power direct from the battery?
Thanks.
-
Those capacitors are for (electrical)noise supression. So your you radio signal is not interfered with.
-
Thanks, never seen those used before, just the normal small suppressors on the motors.