Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: DaveRuss on June 02, 2017, 12:53:17 pm
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Hi,
I am waiting for my delivery of the Riva Aquarama kit from Amati. I should have it by next Wednesday but I have a question. What glue would you recommend ? I already have some Aliphatic glue , would that be ok, or does it need to be waterproof ?
I will be varnishing the exterior only as I don't want to use fibreglass.
Also what sealing agents and varnishes are recommended.
Many Thanks
Dave
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You will be ok with the glue you have is it is waterproof Titebond 3 is the one I used and it is good .
The lads on the riva stand in Germany were using a 2pack system to get the glass type finish .
David
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I will be varnishing the exterior only as I don't want to use fibreglass.
Hi Dave,
If you plan on running the boat regulary, I'd strongly advice to cover the bare hull in a layer of fiberglass cloth and 24h epoxy resin.
Wood will always shrink and expand due to temperature and humidity and there will be cracks as a result.
A layer of glasscloth and epoxy will prevent your hull from developing cracks (and subsequent leaking and rotting.
The thin glasscloth will be completely invisible, once it has been applied, so your varnish will bring out the shine surface.
I used this on the outer surface of my M.A.S.":
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/glass-fiber-cloth-450x1000mm-48g-m2-ultra-thin.html
Pictures of the build (including glasscloth):
http://www.modelbouwforum.nl/threads/motoscafo-anti-sommergibile.152176/
Regards, Jan.
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Thanks David and Jan for your replies.
I won't be using it in the water very much as it is mainly going to be a shelf queen.But on a nice day I want to be able to take it to a lake or pond somewhere for a quick run out.
On that note, what brushless motors would be recommended for this boat and what shaft and props?
Also a very large and quite heavy box was delivered this morning and on getting home from work I opened it up.
I must say the box looks very nicely done with lots of details.On opening the box I was amazed at the quality of the items inside,looks superb.
I am very pleased about the seats etc as they are made from a spongy rubber and I think look quite realistic.I can't seem to see any flooring material but it could be in between the ply sheets but I will not be using that as I have decided to use mahogany sheeting for the flooring.
I have added a few pictures of my box opening and I hope it's not too boring for you all but I'm very excited about starting the build.
Thanks
Dave
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I won't be using it in the water very much as it is mainly going to be a shelf queen.But on a nice day I want to be able to take it to a lake or pond somewhere for a quick run out.
Hi Dave,
That's exactly the reason you should treat the hull with glasscloth and epoxy, or the tiny cracks, developed as a shelf queen, dried out in a well heated room, will most likely ruin your nice day at the pond...
Maybe not that same day, if you're lucky and the boat didn't sink, but the next, when the moisture soaked into the cracks, will start to make the wood buckle.
I'll come back with motor and hardware suggestions on another occasion, after I've studied this particular model.
Regards, Jan.
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Thanks Jan,I will bare that in mind.
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Hi,I've just ordered the Hobbyzone building slip from Hobbies Ltd, so that should be with me in a few days.
I'm just starting to number all the pieces from the beginning of the build before then starting the keel join and then onto adding the reinforcements on the ribs.
It's a bit messy epoxying the reinforcements to the keel but it will be well hidden.I will be doing the ribs etc with Aliphatic.
I won't be able to add the ribs onto the keel until my building slip arrives.
Thanks
Dave
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On that note, what brushless motors would be recommended for this boat and what shaft and props?
Hi Dave,
No doubt you are aware of the motorisation set by Krick (the European distributor for this kit, a.o.):
http://www.krickshop.de/Products/Accessories/Accessories-for-Ship-Models/Accessories-for-special-Shipmodels/Motorisierungssatz-ital-Sportboot-25035.htm?shop=krick_e&a=article&ProdNr=25036&p=197 (http://www.krickshop.de/Products/Accessories/Accessories-for-Ship-Models/Accessories-for-special-Shipmodels/Motorisierungssatz-ital-Sportboot-25035.htm?shop=krick_e&a=article&ProdNr=25036&p=197)
This brushless set is a replacement for the 'old' set with brushed 600 type motors:
http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/amati_motor_kits.html#aA1608_2f02 (http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/amati_motor_kits.html#aA1608_2f02)
As you can see the price difference isn't that big, but as you specified brushless, I'll leave the brushed motors be.
On a side note; in general, the low end motor response of a brushed motor is better than that of a brushless motor, so if crawling along is going to be most part of your running the boat, reconsider a brushed motor set-up.
Brushless set-up:
The motors used in the link are sold by Krick for €34,90
http://www.krickshop.de/Produkte/Neuheiten-2017/MAX-Marine-P358-910-KV.htm?a=article&ProdNr=42434&p=21462 (http://www.krickshop.de/Produkte/Neuheiten-2017/MAX-Marine-P358-910-KV.htm?a=article&ProdNr=42434&p=21462)
I have the same motor in my spare drawer with a Turnigy sticker on it:
https://hobbyking.com/nl_nl/turnigy-d3536-9-910kv-brushless-outrunner-motor.html (https://hobbyking.com/nl_nl/turnigy-d3536-9-910kv-brushless-outrunner-motor.html)
You can have two for less than one from Krick...
The Seaking 30A ESC (of which you'll need two, one for each motor) is this one:
http://www.dhgate.com/uk/hobbywing-seaking-30a-uk.html (http://www.dhgate.com/uk/hobbywing-seaking-30a-uk.html)
Hobbyking sells the rebranded Flycolor ESC for 'slightly' less:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-30a-boat-esc-3a-ubec.html (https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-30a-boat-esc-3a-ubec.html)
Again, you can get two for the price of one Seaking.
As all these items are manufactured in China, the chance of receiving a dud is equal for all brands.
I've tested the Flycolor ESC for the manufacturer and it worked fine.
Get a programming box with whatever ESC you decide on, it makes life so much easier (scroll down in the link for the HK one).
Propshafts:
If you built the boat, following the instructions, the propshaft angle will be on the steep side, as that is how the 1:1 propshafts are built in.
For the 1:1 boat, this isn't a problem, as these boats obviously run very well.
For a model 1:10, the water isn't scaled down and a too steep a propshaft angle will push the bow down when sufficient power is applied (= crappy running attitude).
For a model, the propshaft angle should not exceed 7°, preferably less (see the pictures in my build thread, link in earlier reply).
In case of the Riva, this means either long propshafts, the motors will (have to) go under the front deck, as the interior is in the way, or shorter propshafts, with the motor on top of the shaft, power transfer via toothed belt.
The latter also allows for a workable propshaft angle, but needs propshafts with a ballbearing inside the hull to cope with the unilateral load of the belt.
http://www.raboeschmodels.com/index.php/nl/component/virtuemart/marine-accessories/propeller-shafts/propeller-shaft-301-series-07-10-detail?Itemid=0
With the long propshafts, you can use a Compact shaft system where the motor is bolted directly onto the flange, using a solid coupler to acheive 100% allignment for a very quiet drive:
https://hydromarine.de/product_info.php?products_id=147 (https://hydromarine.de/product_info.php?products_id=147)
The link is just an example, these shafts can be custom made to fit your requirements.
Something else a (running) Riva model needs, is wider sprayrails than on the plan, to prevent the bow wave from crawling up (and onto) to the deck, as can be seen in the various video's of this type of boat.
In real life, such a horrible running attitude would upset the boat owner (and his passengers) to no end...
Regards, Jan.
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Hi Dave just a thought - when your using epoxy buy some IPA (Alchohol) it cleans epoxy up really well. It also cleans it off all of your tools and brushes when it gets on them too :-))
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Thanks for taking the time to find out all those details Jan. I will probably go the Hobbyking route as I've had plenty from them in the past.Regarding the prop shafts etc, bit over my head with those so I'll stick to what Amati recommend.
Thanks Mark, have just ordered some from Amazon.
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Regarding the prop shafts etc, bit over my head with those so I'll stick to what Amati recommend.
Hi Dave,
That's where the knowledge and expertise of this forum comes in handy, you don't have to know everything...
Regarding picture DSC00348.JPG (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=58230.0;attach=174221)
There's a plastic bag with two metal rods and two pieces of brass or copper piping.
Could you please measure the length of the rods and make a detailed picture of the ends?
If one end doesn't have M4 threading (assuming the rods are Ø4 mm) with the other end just smooth, you may have to cut thread on those rods, preferably left and right handed, in order to be able to fit some props.
If this is 'what Amati recommends', there should also be two 'A' frames and bushings in the hardware that came with the kit, some pictures of those parts would be nice to, so we can make an educated guess as to Amati provided these items to go with a static display model, of if it's actual running hardware.
If the rods are a snug fit inside the brass/copper tubes, I seriously doubt it'll work properly as running hardware, as there will be no bushings on either end of the tube.
The tubes will hugg the shafts over their entire length, with grease used to keep the water out, the drag inside those tubes will be huge, putting a lot of strain on both motor and ESC.
No worries, there's a way around it, but I'd like to know for sure what these items look like before I make suggestions how to go about ir.
Regards, Jan.
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Ill second Jans recomendation for covering the boat with a thin layer of glass cloth and epoxy resin. At the very least coat the wood with 2-3 thin coats of slow setting epoxy resin,i use an old credit card sraping off as i go so its the thinnest coat ,repeat this 3 times and it will be fine.The epoxy with also bring out the natural look of the wood just as well as any varnish.If you do this you wont need the cloth ive done may wooden boats this way over the years .
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Hi Dave,
Here's a video that shows how well placed sprayrails keep the bow wave from crawling up to the deck:
https://youtu.be/14D5MC51WG0 (https://youtu.be/14D5MC51WG0)
This Riva has the same motors I linked to, but with a higher Kv
Here's the build thread:
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2441334-Another-Amati-Riva-Aquarama (https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2441334-Another-Amati-Riva-Aquarama)
Pay attention to his choice of propshafts (Raboesch) and post #68 regarding the use of glasscloth and epoxy...
On another note; all build logs I found mention that this kit is designed as a static model, it's too heavy for a running model (hence the use of the lighter brushless motors and Lipo batteries)
The builders that took notice of this fact built in 'lightness' by removing as much wood from the structure as possible and took out sections that didn't affect structural integrety after the hull was finished, but before the deck was installed.
I know this sounds daunting in a first build, but for a well running boat it is essential to scrub as much weight as possible.
Regards, Jan.
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Hi Dave,
That's where the knowledge and expertise of this forum comes in handy, you don't have to know everything...
Regarding picture DSC00348.JPG (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=58230.0;attach=174221)
There's a plastic bag with two metal rods and two pieces of brass or copper piping.
Could you please measure the length of the rods and make a detailed picture of the ends?
If one end doesn't have M4 threading (assuming the rods are Ø4 mm) with the other end just smooth, you may have to cut thread on those rods, preferably left and right handed, in order to be able to fit some props.
If this is 'what Amati recommends', there should also be two 'A' frames and bushings in the hardware that came with the kit, some pictures of those parts would be nice to, so we can make an educated guess as to Amati provided these items to go with a static display model, of if it's actual running hardware.
If the rods are a snug fit inside the brass/copper tubes, I seriously doubt it'll work properly as running hardware, as there will be no bushings on either end of the tube.
The tubes will hugg the shafts over their entire length, with grease used to keep the water out, the drag inside those tubes will be huge, putting a lot of strain on both motor and ESC.
No worries, there's a way around it, but I'd like to know for sure what these items look like before I make suggestions how to go about ir.
Regards, Jan.
Hi Jan,
Thanks again for your efforts.
I don't mean to use the shafts in the kit as they are for static display only.
If you still want the measurements I will get them for you though and they are threaded.
Regarding the motors, if I use the Turnigy outrunners am I right in thinking I will not be able to use a water cooling jacket on them ?
Or do they not need cooling?
Sorry for all the questions.
Thanks
Dave
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Ill second Jans recomendation for covering the boat with a thin layer of glass cloth and epoxy resin. At the very least coat the wood with 2-3 thin coats of slow setting epoxy resin,i use an old credit card sraping off as i go so its the thinnest coat ,repeat this 3 times and it will be fine.The epoxy with also bring out the natural look of the wood just as well as any varnish.If you do this you wont need the cloth ive done may wooden boats this way over the years .
Hi Martin,thanks.
What resin would you recommend. Also when that is done I take it I still need to varnish. I think i prefer this method than to start with fibreglassing.
Thanks
Dave
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Hi All
The different motors is range is:-
D3536/9-910 370watts
D3536/8-1000 430watts
D3536/6-1250 500watts
D3536/5-1450 655watts
The later require a 45Amp ESC, but, if you get these to start with you can upgrade to the more power motors later.
The power rating is on the higher battery voltage.
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Some great information coming out in this build blogg, thanks Jan, Dave, Martin!
I too will be following the resin / cloth / tissue covering processes with great interest..... I've never been brave enough to try it! :((
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Regarding the motors, if I use the Turnigy outrunners am I right in thinking I will not be able to use a water cooling jacket on them ?
Or do they not need cooling?
Hi Dave,
Don't hesitate to ask if anything is unclear, that's what a forum is for!
Depending on the propsize and pitch selected, these outrunners need no to very little cooling, If you've seen read my M.A.S. build, you'll know it took over an hour in the blazing sun for my (black) outrunner to get too hot.
The watercooled mount is something you can easily make yourself, or buy.
In the Riva thread I linked to, the builder uses the same motors, but in 'airplane' configuration, this allows him to use standard watercoolers (in red) to put between the mount and the motor.
Every electric motor produces some heat, outrunners are no exeption, so if you want to add a watercooled mount, just say so and I'll find you one.
Regards, Jan.
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https://hobbyking.com/en_us/36-size-adjustable-motor-mount-with-water-cooling.html
Hobbyking water cooled motor mount kit.
Canabus
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I think i prefer this method than to start with fibreglassing.
Hi Dave,
Adding a layer of glasscloth and epoxy resin (the 24h kind!) to a wooden hull is a piece of cake.
That's easy for me to say as I've been working with the stuff for over twenty years, but it really is simple when you do it by the book (or my book...).
Realizing you cannot just throw a piece of glasscloth over the upside down hull and add epoxy resin, is the first step.
I added a few pictures of my M.A.S. hull, which is basically a box, as an example.
I added glasscloth pieces on every individual surface, using paper templates to get the size correct.
These were put in position and tapped onto the wood with a small brush and epoxy resin.
As you can see the sections were slightly oversized, once the epoxy has cured, I cut the overlap with a scalpel, or an industrial razor blade and sand the edge flush.
There is no overlap with the adjacent surface, it's just the thickness of the cloth and the resin that forms the edge.
Reason for this method, is the fact that all running surfaces of this stepped hull need to stay sharp, so the waterflow will break off the sharp edges instead of crawling up.
Another reason is that you can't fold glasscloth around edges that sharp, the tension in the glasscloth will make it work itself loose and round the edges with air trapped underneath the glasscloth.
After all surfaces have been treated, the hull is sanded (very) lightly, making sure not to break the glasscloth surface, and one or two extra layers of epoxy resin era brushed on, as thin as possible, to avoid runners.
Once that is done, the weave of the cloth is invisible, 'drowned' in the extra layers of epoxy resin.
Now you can add varnish and paint.
I added sprayrails after the hull had been covered in glasscloth and epoxy, as the edges needed to stay sharp for the sprayrails to work, the wood was brushed over with epoxy resin to make it waterproof.
Let me know if you have more questions.
Regards, Jan.
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If you still want the measurements, I will get them for you though and they are threaded.
Yes please, knowing the length helps source suitable running gear.
Regards, Jan.
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Hi Thanks to all the very very helpful responses. :-))
My Hobbyzone Building Slip arrived today and it looks a really nice bit of kit, but quite complicated to put together with very basic instructions so it will take me an evening or two to assemble.
I also ordered the Mahogany for the flooring last night, also thinking of using it for the seat bases as well.
After a long day at work I'm too tired to build the slip tonight so I'll try tomorrow all being well.
I will try and get the measurements for you tomorrow Jan, just too tired tonight.
Thanks again
Dave
ps Still unsure of the glass cloth yet but I've plenty of time to think about it.
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Hi Dave,
I am currently building my first wooden (mahogany) boat, a kind of gentlemans 1930's racer (Aeronaut Jenny) and was very dubious about covering with fibreglass sheet as I had never done it before.
I eventually bit the bullet and went for it and to be honest it's not as difficult as it may seem. So pleased I did it now and would back up the guys on here who have recommended you glass the hull.....go for it :-))
Good luck with your build and hope you enjoy it as much as I am...
Dale.
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Hi David.
Scroll down the subjects in this section to my Aquarama build, it may be of some help.
My advice re glass cloth and epoxy, particularly on this model, is FORGET IT .
Works well on some models but definitely not this one.
Mike.
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Works well on some models but definitely not this one.
Hi Mike,
Could you elaborate on that?
I've glassed several hulls, including ones considered to be 'difficult to glass', never had any issues.
Regards, Jan.
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Hi Dave,
In my 110 cm M.A.S. I'm using a single C4250-800Kv outrunner on 4S to drive the 5875 aluminium two blade prop (Ø 58 mm).
On two 4800mAh 4S Lipo's wired in parallel I get runtimes of over two hours, mostly walking pace with the occasional 100M sprint interval.
During the first test run on a warm windless day (no deck installed yet) it ran fine for over an hour, when the boat stopped; both motor (black housing) and ESC had become very hot in the blazing sun, causing the ESC to thermal.
Once home I installed watercooling, so both ESC and motormount would keep the temperature low enough to avoid overheating issues.
I used the pressureless system I have on my fast electrics, where the inlet is in the bottom, slanted forward (with a minute scoop) and the outlet is also in the bottom, slanted towards the rear, sanded flush with the hull. Once the cooling lines (ESC, then motor mount) are filled with water (after a small burst of throttle), the flow will keep going, even when you're crawling along, or go in reverse. The outlet creates suction, which helps the flow to keep going.
Downside to this system is that you don't see water coming out, so there's no way of knowing if the flow is going, but you can take my word on it that there is water circulating, as nothing gets beyond hand warm, even after two hours of pottering around.
I added a few pictures of my motormount, made out of aluminium angle from the building market.
The inlet and outlet are situated in the first step of the hull, as the steps draw air under the hull, putting them towards the transom (as I do in non-steppd hulls) would not work here.
Having them so far forward is actually a benefit in this hull, as the tubing can stay as short as possible, reducing the drag in the cooling system.
The inlet and outlet are Ø4 mm thin walled aluminium tubing, as you can see the outlet has a 180° turn to make it point towards the rear, creating sucktion.
The motormount cooling is a square piece of 6 mm thick aluminium, drilled for the coupler and the motormounting bolts, the watercooling is simple; a 3,3 mm hole derilled through the top of the square, widened on both sides to 4 mm to accept two pieces of aluminium tubing, glued in with loctite.
Regards, Jan.
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Hi again,
Thanks again to all that have added an opinion or link to the various items it is very much appreciated and is a great help.
Just a small update,I've glued some of the reinforcement parts to the ribs (all as per manual which is excellent) and I've made progress on the Hobbyzone Building slip so I'm incorporating a mini build log in this one.
The quality of the Building Slip is excellent with all the pieces a perfect fit with each other, the instructions are a bit vague but I'm battling through.
The fist set of pics are where I'm up to with the Riva and the last few are of the Building Slip.
Thanks again to all who have posted so far.
Dave
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Wipe off as much glue as you can while it's still wet / damp, it will aid with painting / varnishing / sealing later. :-))
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Hi All,Thanks for the info Martin.
Just a small update tonight. Managed to finish the Hobbyzone Building Slip and set it all up for the Riva.
I have glued the first rib (num 5) into place using the slip and it takes all the worry of guessing if it is square etc.
Thanks again for looking.
Dave
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Hi Dave....couldn't agree more that the early stages in model ship construction needs to ensure squareness in all dimensional relationships, so from this I would have assumed that the Hobbyzone Building Slip assisted with this
Once any squareness irregularity is encountered, continued building without correction can be a catastrophic
If Rib/Frame No 5/5 is glued in, it would suggest %) something is not square
Best resolve & correct this early on in the build :-))
Derek
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Hi Derek,
I think it might be the angle I took the picture as it is all perfectly square when I removed the backing plate to check it.
Thanks
Dave
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OK...good to hear Dave....puts push to those two fables... {-)
1. a camera never lies
2. what about optical parallax error?
Keep us posted with build images.......these Aquarama make a beautiful varnished hulled vessel :-))
Derek
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Hi Derek,
Not a clue what Optical parallax error is {-)
Added a few more ribs/formers this evening and part number 49 into the 10 and 11 ribs.The slots in rib 11 are larger than needed and the instructions do not really show a close up but I have fitted it to the bottom of the slot as that would give the more stronger joint, it also gives part 49 a slight slope to the rear.
Also popped the plans on to the wall to give me inspiration.
Thanks
Dave
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Hi All,
I've also been thinking in regard to the option of having it as an RC boat.
I might leave it until my second build which at this current thought train is going to be either a Dumas Typhoon or a Legends 1958 California Cracker Box.
But I'm not sure. It gives me something to think about.
Thanks
Dave
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Hi all,
Just a small update.
I only have a short time in the evenings to bits and pieces on the Riva so here's where I'm upto at the moment.
I've just finished the Transom and I'm about to start the reinforcements at the bow. I wanted the transom pretty solid so I have used quite a lot of Aliphatic there but it seems really solid.
Also Jan I have measured the shafts ans they are 240mm end to end.
Thanks for looking in
Dave
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Hi Dave,
Propshaft angle talk;
For a model to run properly on the plane, the angle of the propshaft should not exceed 7 degrees.
Attached is a picture showing the angle on my M.A.S., given that the hull is 110 cm long and the propshaft is 50 cm long, the shaft is roughly half the length of the hull, this gives me the opportunity to have a 5-6° angle and still have room for a Ø60 mm prop.
If the Riva should arrive at a similar angle, the shafts should be about 40 cm long.
You measured only 24 cm, which is dramatically short if the motors will be mounted in direct drive, as shown on the plans.
Sure, the boat will run, but the steep propshaft angle will lift the transom and push down the bow, once you get over a certain speed, making the boat plow through the water like a tug.
More power will eventually get it to plane out, but the running attitude will not be good.
Either build the boat according to the plan and accept the fact it'll run disappointingly, or go for (much) longer propshafts, or use belt drives to reduce the propshaft angle as much as possible, using 24 cm long shafts.
Longer propshafts with the motors under the front deck, in order to not compromise the interior, is a major change and should be done while you still have access to the interior (prior to planking).
Using toothed belts, so the motors sit next (or on top) of the propshafts, requires very little change, but should also be done prior to planking, to have good access.
As an example how toothed belt drives look:
https://www.rapidonline.com/reely-toothed-drive-belts-iso5296-521179 (https://www.rapidonline.com/reely-toothed-drive-belts-iso5296-521179)
In the Riva I would use small pulleys and short belts, to make things fit under the motor hatch.
Here's an example of a forummember (Red181), he tested various combinations to arrive at the optimal rpm for the prop, I'd go with a 1:1 gearing, using two of the small belt wheels, so the shaft will be as close to the bottom as possible:
https://youtu.be/e0vJGoCM8vM
Let me know what you think.
Regards, Jan.
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Thanks Jan,the prop shafts in the kit are only for display purpose so I don't think they would be for actually running the boat. I don't think I'm going to go with anything too complicated if I do set it up for RC, I'll just do a direct drive as others have done.
Thanks
Dave
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Hi Martin,thanks.
What resin would you recommend. Also when that is done I take it I still need to varnish. I think i prefer this method than to start with fibreglassing.
Thanks
Dave
You need to use epoxy resin,not the quick setting glue type it needs to be slow setting epoxy it takes around 6-8 hrs to dry and 24 hrs to fully harden.
I havent used this brand before but it should work fine.So long as the boats built well you shouldnt even need any cloth,i built a gas boat years ago and never used cloth just sealed with epoxy and it was tough as nails having had crashes at 50 mph and never more than a scratch lol.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Low-Viscosity-Ultra-Clear-Epoxy-Resin-UV-Resistant-500g-Kit-/332102957509?hash=item4d52e0f9c5:g:YfQAAOSw~y9ZBGMv (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Low-Viscosity-Ultra-Clear-Epoxy-Resin-UV-Resistant-500g-Kit-/332102957509?hash=item4d52e0f9c5:g:YfQAAOSw~y9ZBGMv)
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Hi All,
Thanks for the link Martin looks good. :-))
I've made a little bit of progress over the last few days.Everything seems to be going as the manual says. All the laser cut parts match the plans. The only discrepancy i have spotted is a part number in the manual is wrong where it say part number 48 but should read 46 which is the port side cabin seat base.
I'm enjoying the build but I only spend a bit of time here and there on it as work and family take up most of it.
If I'm posting too many pictures please let me know.
Thanks
Dave
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A few more pictures showing where I am up to.
Next phase will be lining the cabin with the Mahogany.
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Hi All
I have made a mistake on parts 46 and 47, they are the wrong way round. Can anyone let me know what would disolve Aliphatic glue.
Thanks
Dave
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Due to the parts 46 and 47 being glued in the wrong way around I am having to bin the build as I can't release the parts without damaging the surrounding area's.
Expensive mistake.
Thanks for looking.
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I would be grateful if Admin could either close or delete the thread.
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awwww no way man <:(
Was soooo looking forward to this build.
Is there no way round the issue?
Dan
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You get full size templates with plans also the laser cut ply sheets which have profiles left behind that you can use as templates, give it some thought, may not be that difficult
Mike.
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Hi Mike,
Yes you do but I have no way of cutting the plywood (no saw for that type of work) and it would damage too much of the framework getting the old wood out.I have tried with a scalpel to get into the joints but it's no use.
I think it will make a nice bit of firewood though.
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Try this.
Aliphatic resin can be softened with heat. I know because have had to do it in the past.
A powerfull heat gun or hair dryer will help.
Mike.
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Hi Dave, why are they the wrong way around? (Obviously apart from being numbered sequencially) Are they not symetrical when installed? What do they do? How important are they to a later build stage?
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Thanks Mike I ill try it.
HI ballastanksian, I've noticed after fitting they are not symmetrical which makes sense as one of the ribs/formers was the same but I didn't realise it was for the cabin area. I only noticed when I've gone to line the cabin with the ply cutouts and they didn't fit. I will try and melt the glue as Mike as stated in his last post or I might try to butcher the part to try and make it fit.
Needless to say I'm a bit pi.... cheesed off.
Thanks
Dave
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We all go there Dave and after the cussing and carpet chewing, we go back and sort it out. I appreciate that you don not want to fill your mancave with boat projects, but maybe starting on a stablemate will give you a bit of breathing space while you gird your loins to sort the problem out.
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Happy days,Mikes idea worked a treat. Managed to get it out in nearly one piece.
Hopefully a bit of sanding and fettling and it should fit fine.
Thanks again Mike and ballast for the kind words.
Dave
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oops forgot to add pics
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Super pleased for you Dave. I can imagine the releif when it popped out without large cracking sounds.
I look forward to your next installment.
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Thanks ballast.
Super news,it seems I am back on track.
Managed to refit the cabin seat base without any further trouble. It will all be covered up as well so no harm done.
Thanks to everyone who helped with my problem.
Thanks
Dave
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Great news Dave :-))
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Well done mate keep at it and it'll all be worth it :-))
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Well done for sticking with it Dave. We have all had those "Oh ****!" moments when we do something we shouldn't have. At the time it can look like a total disaster but, as you have found, a period of pondering and some wise words from the assembled masses can put some perspective on the doom and gloom. And that is way too nice a kit to burn!
Greg
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Hi all,
Thanks for the support Daleb,Mark and Greg.
Finished boxing off the cabin nice and easy as everything fits perfectly, it then says to line with the mahogany but I'll leave that till I've finished with the framework.
I'm starting on the reinforcements and framework toward the stern of the Riva,the last pics just show the reinforcements being glued in place on the underside.
Thanks,
Dave
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Looking good and I am so glad you didn't destroy it. It is going to look great when it is on the water.
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Thanks Antipodean, it was all thanks to ukmikes post on using a hairdryer to melt the Aliphatic glue.
Thanks
Dave
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Hi All,
A bit more done on the stern area framework.I also added some reinforcement to the rear frame and the transom to give it a more solid feel.I've also now put in the rudder supports in.Second to last 2 pics are to show where I'm up to.
Thanks
Dave
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After a lot of thought I've decided to make my Riva a static display model.
My next one will definitely be a RC model.
Thanks
Dave
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Hi all,
I've managed to finish the rear hatch frame and fitting also I've now moved on to the rear seat hatch.
The rear hatch frame was a little fiddly to keep in shape until the glue dried but turned out ok.
Thanks
Dave
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Hi Dave
Nice work, hope you have the templates from this one to build a R/C one.
One for show and one for go!!!!
Canabus
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After a lot of thought I've decided to make my Riva a static display model.
Hi Dave,
Good choice.
I see way too much wood in the pictures without the 'lightness' built in, so the boat will be on the heavy side for an RC model...
The propshaft angle according to the plan would also have resulted in a poorly performing boat.
Regards, Jan.
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Thanks Jan.
Looking at other build logs though and I can't see where anyone has lightened their boat.
I'm going to enjoy more building than sailing her though as there is really nowhere around me to try her out and I am planing to spend more time with my scale rc helicopters.
Thanks
Dave
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I can't see where anyone has lightened their boat.
Hi Dave,
Obvious answer would be ignorance and/or lack of experience with fast boats.
For a lot of these builders it's either a first (or second) build and they follow the instructions to the letter, with no regard for the heavyweight they are building.
Something they find out once the boat gets on the water...
Regards, Jan.
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Hello all,
Not posted for a while as I've been busy on another project and my boat build is just something to keep me occupied.
I've decided not to post any further part of my build log as I was not very happy with a reply or 2 from a member but thanks to all who contributed.
I will post a picture when finished.
Thanks
Dave
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Hey Dave, don't let one or two spoil it for you or your readers. I, together with many others are really enjoying this build log. Please keep it up. :-))
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Hi Dave,
I'm not sure if you refer to some of my replies, but nothing I wrote was intended to keep you from building a nice scale model, quite the opposite in fact.
Regards, Jan.
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Hi Dave,
I'm not sure if you refer to some of my replies, but nothing I wrote was intended to keep you from building a nice scale model, quite the opposite in fact.
Regards, Jan.
Come on Dave no ones trying to make you feel stupid we all need help sometimes and sometimes how we come across on here might not be the way its intended :-)) .Look forward to seeing the finished boat mate. Jan is one of the most helpful guys on this and other forums i can vouch for that .
Mart
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Certainly not Dave.
Seriously, I read one comment that could have been misinterpretted but certainly was not aimed at you because, like you say, this build is to be static and other builders doing this model as a runner may have come a cropper. Your future builds will benefit from any collective knowledge on here and you are doing a fab job.
I hope to see your next build soon once you have flown some hours on your helicopters etc.
:-)) :-)) :-))