Hi Grant,
1)looking at the plans the rudder is 60mm deep and 13mm wide.
2)The turn fin is 35mm deep and 18mm wide.
3)Going on about the same size boat on the Hobbyking site.
The Ariane 2(930mm) has a 3660-2075kv(water cooled)brushless motor with a 125Ammp water cooled ESC running a 5000mah 4S Lipo battery.
No prop size given sadly.
Rudder servo 3KG+..
They have a good number of drive unit with flex drive cables.
With that powered motor I go 5mm flex drive.
Now I thought the rudder had to be a percentage of the total length and the same as the turn fins.?
Grant
I will search for reference for the flood chamber as not quite sure where the hole should go to let water in and then out, I thought that maybe a pipe in the bottom would create a vacuum to remove the water while running but the filling is a ?Hi Grant,
I will certainly be going for the bigger motor and esc.
Hi Grant,
If you want to keep the budget within reason, go for this motor: https://www.tfl-hobby.de/Motore--Halter--usw-/Brushless/TFL-40-mm/4082/BL-Motor-TFL--4082-1750KV---3-5D.html (https://www.tfl-hobby.de/Motore--Halter--usw-/Brushless/TFL-40-mm/4082/BL-Motor-TFL--4082-1750KV---3-5D.html)
With this cooler: https://www.tfl-hobby.de/Wasserkuehlung--Nippel/fuer-BL--Motore/ab-40-mm/Kuehlmantel-fuer-40er-Brushlessmotor--70-mm-lang--schwarz.html (https://www.tfl-hobby.de/Wasserkuehlung--Nippel/fuer-BL--Motore/ab-40-mm/Kuehlmantel-fuer-40er-Brushlessmotor--70-mm-lang--schwarz.html)
And a Flycolor 150A ESC: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flycolor-Waterproof-150A-Brushless-ESC-with-5-5V-5A-BEC-for-RC-Boat/302315187681?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D45702%26meid%3D1dc1f79d0bf6496c93af22539e28c98f%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D141944856772 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Flycolor-Waterproof-150A-Brushless-ESC-with-5-5V-5A-BEC-for-RC-Boat/302315187681?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D45702%26meid%3D1dc1f79d0bf6496c93af22539e28c98f%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D141944856772)
Running on 6S.
Without a programming card/box, you'll have to count beeps in order to be able to program the ESC, depending on the make and model this can prove to be a hair raising experience, which can take hours before you understand what's going on (been there, done that, bought the programming cards)...
Regards, Jan.
Our messages crossed over martinSorry mate my motor choice was wrong it was the wrong kv they seem out of the ones i wanted to recommend ,yes anything in your previous statement as regards kv is about right on 6 s,the one i linked would work on 8s but not 6 .
I'm unsure of drive shaft size and prop size I should get, so any help there guys will be gratefully received.Hi Grant,
Not sure if youve seen this ?.The motor hes using is the one i wanted to link but HK dont seem to have them .That's a weird build...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulhNJEZy7Qs (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ulhNJEZy7Qs)
Cheers Martin. I'll have a look would 180amp esc be ok to cover a vast amount of motors that I would be in the market for?The T 180 esc is better than the flycolor one but the 150 flycolor one will work well for you its up to you i guess.
1)The esc that had the link was not available for UK postage,that why I was looking else where.Hi Grant,
2) What would the set up of a 180amp turnigy esc running a 4074-2000 run like ?
3) With regards to the lipos would you use 2x 3s wired in series or just 1x 6s. And what mah to get I assume it's the same with nihm bigger the better?? {:-{
I do think a flood chamber is a good idea as long as you don't have to constantly be going fast to stop it filling up .......If that was the case, not a single raceboater would install a floodchamber in his competition boat...
I was watching a traxxas spartan on you tube on a calm flat lake it was at speed bobing from side to side why is this as it seemed to have an effect to him giving it all out.
HI Jan, looking at your hulls, it looks like they are the same shape as the strakes.Hi Grant,
I got the impression from Jan that the higher the kv the betterHi Grant,
So is the 4082-1450 no good ? I know the longer it is there's more torque?Yes that kv and size will work perfect its in the ballpark as we keep saying 30 k rpm or as Jan said between 28-32 is safe .Put a link up to the motor and i can see which motor it is.
Did you see post about battery any good
Cheers Martin, but both of them are out of stock, for some reason they won't post lipo abroadThey were available in the UK and in stock when i looked ,they sold out quick lol .
So 2 of them required, they be ok to run 4082-1450kv turnigy xk motor
Hi Martin with regards to the battery coding and the discharge rate will 25c be ok with a burst of 50c. I've been trying to work it out the calculation but not getting itPersonally id stick with something above 30c the ones i linked were 40 c,boats are under a constant load due to the prop having to push all that water trust me it makes a big difference when compaired to running cars planes etc so the biggest c rating you can afford is always a good idea .
Grant
I'm trying to decide whether to install a flood chamber or not how many times is it likely to flip over and is fitting the flood chamber a 100% success of it turning back over. I know that Jan is in favour of the flood ?Hi Grant,
I've roughly measured what volume I would have stopping at frame 5 which would be 2.7lHi Grant,
With regards to the water cooling system I saw the photo you had put on Jan of your water pickup comparing it to the rudder pickups which is better?My pressureless intake/outlet system has no drag to speak of.
We've got so far,Hi Grant,
4082-1450 motor
2 x 3s 6000mah hrb lipo
Flycolor 150 amp
Savox servo.
Found this on the eBay is this like taking a gun to a knife fight or does just fit what's needed.Hi Grant,
It only works out £8 cheaper and I think it's better to go with a known quality in the boating circles than a car brushless motor.Hi Grant,
Now all I need is ???
One question as I'm now on for it does the splashing rail on both sides run from transom to front?? I've seen from past posts that Martin has included how to do the rails with extending the sides and filling with filler ?. Just normal wood filler or carbody filler {:-{
Where as in the plans the transom runs flat and the cockpit has none at all shape, I will be changing to give it a better appearance.Be carefull with altering the top of the design, motorised as planned, at full throttle, the aerodynamics of the top most certainly plays a big part in the handling (or lack of).
Silly question which way does the prop turn ?Look at the prop and im sure you can work it out yourself :D
Silly question which way does the prop turn ?Whatever way you make the motor run...
Cheers Martin, yes I remember from a previous post that you advised not to add any Chines until I see how it runs. I'm just on for the spray rails and just need to know if they go right to the bow of get smaller and fall short??No they go right forward tapering off towards the bow
What is the best connector to use for the amp draw I see the cables are 10sw but what connector?..?I'm using 4 mm goldplated, as I have that as a standard in all my boats, but for the next build with the SSS4074- 2200Kv it's going to be 5 or 6 mm goldplated all around.
Hi Grant,Totally agree keep it simple :} .
For the work and trouble, I'd rather get 'proper' 5,5 mm connectors.
Regards, Jan.