Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Chit-Chat => Topic started by: Baldrick on September 22, 2017, 02:22:32 pm
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Can anyone help with advice on how to recover the situation when you find that you have heavily loaded the inside of your wood hulled boat with epoxy resin to which the hardener has not been added and is therefore not curing ? If it is allowed time to air dry without the curing will it be possible to paint over it on the areas where it has bled through to the exterior ? I have tried wiping down with white spirit but the stuff still lingers in the nooks and crannies.
Before you ask this came about because the bottle labeled hardener was in fact resin, instead of resin and hardener it was two bottles of resin that the supplier sent >>:-(
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Removing the single component is about the only option. If you can flush it out with solvents and re coat with a proper mix you might get away with little wet patches in the corners but try an get as much out as possible. Epoxy does dilute well with Isopropanol alcohol so that might be better than white spirit. I've been told that ultra violet light will cure epoxy but never had any experience of that.
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Mix up another batch, but go heavy on the Hardener then slosh that about inside the Hull and apply some Heat with a Heat Gun or Hair drier, in a ventilated space.
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Buy some IPA which is Isopropyl Alcohol; this solvent will remove it. I clean my brushes with it after I have used them with epoxy
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Buy some IPA which is Isopropyl Alcohol; this solvent will remove it. I clean my brushes with it after I have used them with epoxy
You can "thin" epoxy with Isopropyl Alcohol as well, very useful if you're sealing large areas with epoxy.
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Mix up another batch, but go heavy on the Hardener then slosh that about inside the Hull and apply some Heat with a Heat Gun or Hair drier, in a ventilated space.
I don't think that will work. Epoxy relies on a chemical reaction between resin and hardener to cure properly. It is not a catalysed process like polyester, where more catalyst will speed up the process. If the proportions in the epoxy mix are not those recommended you will end up with unreacted resin or hardener and a soft, sticky finish. No amount of heat or time will make the reaction start again. (This is also the reason why mixing properly is essential for epoxy. Two or three minutes vigorous stirring!)
For Baldrick - go with the IPA wash to get as much of the resin out as you can. Meths does a passable job, but do try and get the hull as clean as you can before recoating. Use gloves! And good luck.
Greg
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TailUK - strong UV degrades epoxy's strength (the reason why epoxy bonds/coats should be shielded from sunlight). I'm not at all certain it'll set it off.
Andy
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TailUK - strong UV degrades epoxy's strength (the reason why epoxy bonds/coats should be shielded from sunlight). I'm not at all certain it'll set it off.
Andy
Like I said I've never actually seen it myself but it was told to me by a guy who worked for Ciba-Geigy. It may have been in connection with specialist glues used in Antique restoration.
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Thanks Guys.
I will try the Isopropyl Alcohol; bought a spray can from Maplin this morning
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Get some cotton wool balls (you can usually get a big bag cheap at a pound shop) and start mopping. Quick spray, pause, mop, fresh cotton wool. Just be careful to allow some of the alcohol to evaporate before binning the cotton wool. There's a very slim chance of spontaneous combustion.
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Get some cotton wool balls (you can usually get a big bag cheap at a pound shop) and start mopping. Quick spray, pause, mop, fresh cotton wool. Just be careful to allow some of the alcohol to evaporate before binning the cotton wool. There's a very slim chance of spontaneous combustion.
And don't have a quick fag while you're doing it {-) .
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Thanks Guys.
I will try the Isopropyl Alcohol; bought a spray can from Maplin this morning
Three times the price of a litre from local chemist methinks :embarrassed:
Ned
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Three times the price of a litre from local chemist methinks :embarrassed:
Ned
Definitely; heres a link for the OP for 1 litre for £6.39 with free postage
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/IPA-100-1-LITRE-Lab-Grade-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Isopropanol-99-1L-/141522873981?epid=1248739107&hash=item20f36bae7d:g:ACEAAOSwzrxUsbES
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Craplins,
200 mil spray £4.99 >>:-(
Ned
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I got got it from Maplins because they had it and I wanted to get on with it soonest. Local Boots did not stock it and Ebay would have taken 5 days although cheaper
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Hey Ho.
Been talking to the supplier and after sniffing the bottles it would appear that I have two bottles of hardener, no resin at all . not sure if that is better or worse . They recommend acetone to clean it off with. Only good thing is that they have responded to help me as quick as they could.
Next time I will do a small test piece first.
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Yes, acetone will work but so will the IPA, so if you already have that then press on with it. If/when it runs out, a can of acetone from the hardware store will be a lot cheaper! Hardener is rather nasty stuff (more so than the resin in my opinion) so do be careful when cleaning it out. Lots of paper towels and disposable gloves, and wrap up the waste before binning it.
Good luck!
Greg
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Meths is cheaper and should do the job. We used to thin Araldite with industrial meths for spraying.
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Meths is cheaper and should do the job. We used to thin Araldite with industrial meths for spraying.
Meths does work but Isopropyl Alcohol is less toxic to humans, relatively speaking.