Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Steam => Topic started by: Jerry C on November 08, 2017, 12:03:09 pm
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Following on from “Jerry’s Steam Launch Wear” and “Jerry Does Some Milling and Turning”, I’m starting the promised larger launch. This time last year I’d finished the boiler, engine, feed pump and burner. I brought them with me to Canberra to build a launch down under to keep me off the streets and to give myself something the keep the little grey cells happy. I spent 6 months hoping a suitable hull would turn up but to no avail. Went back to our boat in the marina in Cheshire and after a couple of weeks visiting family, arranging phones and internet we commenced our Summer Cruise on the cut. This on Facebook entitled “Angelica’s Adventures”.We travelled to Liverpool for the Mersey River Festival and Armed Forces Day. Then cruised the Leeds-Liverpool Canal, The Aire and Calder Navigation, The Huddersfield Canal, The Huddersfield Narrow (Shallow), Canal, The Ashton and Rochdale canals before returning to our marina. Sometime before Liverpool I found a used 49” GRP double ended clinker built fishing boat hull. I bought it sight unseen and had it delivered to my brother in laws in Liverpool. On completion of our cruise he delivered the hull to the marina. I was very pleased with it and reckoned with a few changes to its outline I could come up with a decent steam launch.First question, how to get it to Canberra? Too big for Royal Mail and all the couriers wanted £390 to deliver it. They should cocoa. It only weighed 9.4 kg so with a bit of rearranging our check in baggage we actually managed to bring it for free as hold baggage. Customs weren’t interested in it so a winner!After a week acclimatising and getting over jet lag it’s time to get started. First job was to cut out the upper deck. Tried with a pad saw from Bunnings. Rubber blades so gave up and bought a cheap jigsaw which made short work of it. Water line is determined by the diameter of propeller add a bit of stern trim for aesthetics and marked it with a felt tip pen. The hull is very similar in shape to an old ships lifeboat and at first sight doesn’t look right for an Edwardian launch having far too much freeboard. Fairly easily sorted by cutting out both sheer strakes and the plank below. Now she looks more like it, a straight stem, lovely amount of shear and will sit nicely to her waterline. I found the longitudinal CofG, Gl, by simple balance method. I’ve marked this inside the hull for future reference. A trip to Majura Models and Hobbies in Fyshwick got me a used 4 channel 2.4Ghz tranny, a tiny Rx, a 5 cell battery pack and three tiny servos. Looks like the store has most of the materials I’ll need for the build and very helpful too. Got some 3mm stainless nuts bolts and washers plus a few nyloc nuts for good measure also some Ali tubing and 6mm ply sheet. Not having any plans to work from is a bit difficult coz I’ve got to frame out the foredeck, side and after decks. Will visit a sheet metal works tomorrow to bum some 1/2” Ali angle to make a ladder base for the steam plant. I want to be able to remove the plant as one quickly and easily as I can with S L Wear. So this is what I’ve done so far today. Jerry.
When I tried to post this with pictures this is a screenshot of the result. My iPhone used to take jpeg pics. Why won’t it let me? In the past I have taken a pic, emailed it to myself, resizing in the process and using resized pic in post but now it won’t let me. I’ve spent 2 hours trying.
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I wonder if it's because your picture files seem to have the extension .jpeg whereas the software only allows .jpg? I suppose you could try editing the file name to see if it fixes the problem?
That was a bit frustrating - I read your post with growing anticipation, only to get to the bottom and... nothing! {:-{ But I'm looking forward to this once you have the picture issue sorted.
Greg
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See: http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,23.msg595782.html#msg595782
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Jerry...my land line e-mail address is in my profile....send me the images & I will try & post them on your behalf in this thread......
[Are you sure the hull is Australian or could it have dual Nationality {-) ]...current OZ joke :-X
Derek
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I’m looking forward to this build Jerry. Your other threads were great and good luck with this build too :-))
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Thanks guys, it’s good to be back.
Why does the site allow an iPhone screenshot but not an iPhone photo? Are they not one and the same?
Also noticed if I copy a picture from a previous post it rejects them too.
How do I access the photos details to alter the suffix?
Jerry.
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I do remember when you purchased this hull Jerry, as we thought it may have been filled resin foam to the top O0............... the first image shows what may have been covering the hull %)
...that looks like a John Moore [bogstandard] twin engine OK......but what is the single cylinder water pump?......that looks :kiss:
Derek
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Hi Jerry,
Good to hear that you are still on the planet, try this link,( http://www.orionmouldings.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4188609 (http://www.orionmouldings.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4188609) ) I think this may be the hull that you bought.
Derek,
The pump is a steam driven pump by Southworth pumps, I have made several of them but they are very delicate once they have been timed and are not to be fiddled about with and stand about 3" high, they are very good pumps and being steam driven can be balanced to a boiler very accurately without having an over flow valve.
Mainly fitted to Loco's
George.
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Thank you Derek for the pics. I’ve searched my iPhone settings but can’t find how to see the file type. I’m doing nothing I haven’t done before. I take the pic, email it to myself when it asks me what size to send I choose <300kb and send it. When it comes back I put it in a resize folder for future use.
Engine is bog standard (I built two at the same time) gave the other to my Nephew who lent me the lathe. George, that’s defo the same hull. I got a bargain there.
I’m working with limited tools in what’s going to be a red hot garage. Frantically training for L,Etape Australia 2nd December, got savaged by a Magpie protecting a nest, the sod drew blood and this immediately after a very close encounter with a big red kangaroo flying in front of me nearly ruining my Mt Tennent descent!! Going to the NSW State 505 championship at Lake Mcquairy tomorrow supporting my daughter (she’s only just recovering from the World 505 Championships in Annapolis USA). We’re very proud of her.
Jerry.
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Understandably proud of your daughter.....glad you are enjoying OZ........Lake Macquarie is an absolutely beautiful place
My family....[when children] spent many long weekends aboard & on the water.......from Pulbro Island...to Wangi Wangi & down to the Swansea bridge near the ocean
You will love it :-))
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Dereck, I forgot to say she was sailing under the Australian flag. 8738 seen here in the Australian National Championships. Still won’t let me post a pic. A build without pics ain’t worth much!
Jerry.
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Test
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Ok, pics. Heres the gen. An iPhone takes JPEG format which this site forbids. However when you take a screenshot on an iPhone it uses PNG format which is permitted. So this is what I have to do to show a pic on here.
1. Take pic
2. view pic
3. Take screenshot
4. Email screenshot to self
5. When prompted to send smaller pic select less than 300kb option.
6. Save image when email received
7. Move resized pic to Mayhem resized folder
THIS IS DUMB!!!! I had no trouble before so can somebody tell me what has changed.
Jerry.
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Jerry......the images you e-mailed to my land address were all .JPG....not .JPEG...hence I did not convert them in any way prior to posting
I believe the permissible file type listing is from the PHP software host, nothing to do with MBM forbidding the file format....I am sure Martin will correct me if I am wrong
Advanced technology is a little beyond me O0
Good to see your daughter sailing as an Australian.......the lake at this time of year would probably have 10 individual races in different locations on each Saturday and Sunday...after all the lake is probably about 50% larger than your largest pond 'Lough Neagh' in the UK {-)...
Due to the shallowness of the lake, it can get very rough & choppy in storms......the Western or and Eastern sides of Pulbah Island provides a great lee with good anchorage dependent on the direction of the storms
You still have to answer the question of the source of the steam driven water piston pump [I don't remember Jon Moore manufacturing one]
Derek
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Pump is a Southwark design. Got the plans and castings from Blackgates in uk
Jerry.
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I’ve been shopping, mainly at Bunnings. I’ve no gear here but only buying things I can’t do without.
I removed the remains of the deck, it’s support and the residue of the adhesive used. Not sure what it was, something like no more nails or sticks like shot. Excellent whatever it was.
Got 2 bags of clothes pegs from the local Iga for pennies.
Off to aforementioned model shop for some 4’ lengths of 5/16” square spruce stock. Need a bit more cos loa is 4’ 1” so will use the sanding station to cut the scarfs wit a suitable guide fence.
Used pegs to hold in position flush with new gunwales. A few days should put a set into them.
Jerry.
http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/gWvV (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/gWvV)
http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/gh7T (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/gh7T)
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Missed one,
http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/gGZM (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/gGZM)
Jerry.
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(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/11/16/9E33B4A0-FE6E-423C-825A-F30AF1B5FB33.jpg)
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I made up the start of a ladder frame then started to have a look at how things might go. First up was to prop up the front of the frame to point the output shaft in the general direction of where the propeller shaft may end up. Then when things looking reasonable I stuck the ladder frame in position with Ticky tape, drew around it on the hull inner surface and projected the top of the frame out to the hull sides by laying the pen on its side and running tip around the hull.
Next using a tried and tested method for finding shape of inner hull by using a pointer and pen I marked out for some floors.
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There should have been a pic with the previous post.
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(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/11/18/1A41721B-E0EA-49E8-B602-88181EA0DD2F.jpg)
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(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/11/18/BD31BF7D-2F56-49F9-BE72-4EA7A91D3FE7.jpg)
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(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/11/18/8EA32A71-A4F8-4F46-AFB5-2147C8D6A1EC.jpg)
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I need somebody on here to tell me how, on this new pic System I write one post with pics and description all on one post. Every time I put the BB code on the page then go back to the album to pick up the code for the next picture when I get back to the composing page the first code has gone.
Not happy.
Jerry.
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Jerry...do you have a plan for the construction?.....or just a freelance design?....the real question is will there be any athwart ship beams or reinforcement at or near deck level?...or will the glass hull have sufficient strength?
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Derek, I have no plan, totally winging it. Thinking of foredeck merging into sidedecks then after deck. One, maybe two bulkheads with doors. Some music, nice woods, brass and cushions. Not based on anything this time. Open to suggestions.
Rgds
Jerry.
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(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2017/12/04/1DD492F6-7D47-430E-BFBE-3DE108C8BCA8.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/8nyEB)
Had a bit of a break, moving house, (eldest daughter), cycling training for L’Étape Australia which I completed on Saturday. It was touch and go with the weather with floods forecast but Tour de France organisers, local authorities and police held their nerve and the event went ahead with a minor change and all had a really good event. I’ve also been acquiring tools and stuff but I’m still schooner rigged I’m afraid. Hope Father Christmas gets his finger out and brings me some more stuff. I’m also waiting for 200 tiny slotted brass countersunk screws to come from UK.
Got back onto it today.
This build has no plans or drawings, it all in my head a bit like an Arabian craftsman builds a dhow. Today I divided the gunwales up into kind of equalise segments which just happen to be the same as the steam plant tray is wide which made the job a bit easier. I’m picturing the decks, I want camber and sheer so I’ve allowed for 2 cm of camber at the aft end of foredeck which still permits foredeck to slope towards the stern while rising in relation to foredeck gunwales. I made the main deck beam an arc of a circle that rises 2 cm to the king plank. Rough cut with Dremel router and finished on sanding station. The deck is going to be similar to “Wear” and “Wide-A-Wake” but modified to a radius at the stern to conform to the hulls canoe stern.
Jerry.
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Bonjour Jerry,
As you build without any plan, how did you manage to install the steam plant base ? Do you know which steam plant you will install ?
That could impact the horizontality of the hull and you woul need to ads useless ballast.
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Hi, this is a link to the steam plant build. It’s a Bogstandard engine, a steam driven feed pump and a return Flue scotch boiler similar to the boiler “Patternmaker” used in his Wide-A-Wake build.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,46477.0.html (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,46477.0.html)
Jerry.
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Hello!
I love this launch and I take pleasure to follow up the construction.
The milling of your steam plant is very interesting Jerry. I really enjoyed to follow up.
Just for info, I built the same launch and as you did, I cut the two first clapboards.
My engine is a 23cc (old Saïto) and the boiler: 1200cc = Big & heavy!
250/300 gr/H flare Gaseous phase.
No drawing either and just ideas that I am glad to share with you.
Fanny de KBIO _ Scottish Fifties (http://amis-model-naval-rc.forumactif.org/t131-fanny-de-kbio-_-scottish-fifties)
Thanks for sharing. :-))
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Hello!
I love this launch and I take pleasure to follow up the construction.
The milling of your steam plant is very interesting Jerry. I really enjoyed to follow up.
Just for info, I built the same launch and as you did, I cut the two first clapboards.
My engine is a 23cc (old Saïto) and the boiler: 1200cc = Big & heavy!
250/300 gr/h burner, Gaseous phase.
No drawing either and just ideas that I am glad to share with you.
Fanny de KBIO _ Scottish Fifties (http://amis-model-naval-rc.forumactif.org/t131-fanny-de-kbio-_-scottish-fifties)
Thanks for sharing. :-))
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Hi KBIO AND Rhavane,
1st Rhavane, for the trim I will use the principals of ship stability.
I take note of the weight of the hull, w, and find it’s longitudinal Centre of gravity, gl, by simple balance method. I measure the distance of gl from the stem post. Multiply hull weight w by gl distance gives you a moment around stem post. Each item added to the hull has a weight, w1——— n and a c of g measured also from stem post. W1——-n multiplied by distance from stem post equals it’s moment about stem post. Take the sum of every moment and divide the answer by the sum of all weights(displacement) will give you the distance of the final centre of gravity Gl from the stem. This is theory only. In practice and using my eyes I can place each major, heavy item in the hull to keep c of g where I want it. When all parts are fitted to or in the hull I can adjust Gl by sliding the steam plant metal tray either forward or aft to achieve the required trim (by the stern). Ballast will only be required to achieve the required draft which is largely determined by the size of the propeller and visual aesthetics. The major problem is that the makers of the propeller I want had a major fire and is not taking any orders at the moment.
2nd KBIO, here is a link to my first launch built from scratch using original plans.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,33737.0.html (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,33737.0.html)
Thank you very much for your picture. I am ok with building from plans, even ok with building from pictures but am not very good at designing myself. If you are happy for me to borrow (steal) some of your ideas, methods and solutions I would be eternally grateful to you. If you are willing then please put some more pictures up and with your help I can move along with this build. Thanks in advance,
Jerry.
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Hello Jerry!
No problem to "steal" my ideas that I stole from someone else, anyway! {-)
I'll be very pleased to help you (if I can) by showing some images.
I envy your real launch (and the weather)! :-))
Regards.
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It’s been a good while since my last post cos we’ve been moving house so have been very busy.
Before I had a workmate to work on in a garage but now I have a workshop in a garage with lighting, benches courtesy of “The Big Green Shed” and Gumtree. I’ve got some tools, Dremel drill press, router and table. I’ve got some shelves and storage space so I’m good to go. (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/01/8CDC9809-E18A-48B0-BEB7-8D62FF4BCB6D.jpg)
Before I can proceed the hull needs a stand so I’ve made up a marking out board which I can slide along and clamp to the keel. Then it’s a simple matter to use a pointy stick to transfer distances from plank edges to the board with a pencil and pointer before transferring to same to a sheet of plywood.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/01/07F1B7F1-C065-4D9B-A32C-E0D45CB0BC89.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/01/8CDC9809-E18A-48B0-BEB7-8D62FF4BCB6D.jpg)
I’ll show how it’s done when the glue had gone off.
Jerry.
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I’m not enjoying this new picture system experience.
Here is the picture of the Workshop which should have lead the previous post.
Jerry.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/01/950E0A21-1AE0-4AEF-A8B6-E689ED02B589.jpg)
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I cannot see any pictures Jerry ?
ken
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<*<......the images were visible at about 1700 AEST Jerry....
[silly looking piece of cardboard about an A4 profile...& sitting on the inverted hull axis]....and [image of the workshop window with a bent curtain hook O0]
Now, they have vanished :P..............Derek
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Thanks for the back up Derek.
I've found some more missing on other threads but wondered if it might be my machine.
Happy new year
ken
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Well the pictures seem to have been walkabout but are now back in the fold.
Today I transferred the profile of the hull in way of the forward stand station to the marking card with the marking stick using black ink. I slid the the marking card along the keel,clamped it in position at the after stand station and again, using the marking stick I transferred the profile of the hull to the marking card, this time using red ink.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/02/E035C731-D340-40B6-AF6E-DB94A9435A8E.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/02/B42A80FE-247B-473E-88EA-4AB85279AB1E.jpg)
When the card was completed I removed it from the support and using sticky tape stuck it to the edge of a sheet of 1/4” plywood then using the marking stick I transferred the profile of the forward stand profile back onto the wood using the black lines. Then I moved the card along the sheet of ply and repeated the process for the after stand using the red lines. Finally I joined up the dots, used a blade to score through the lines to avoid lift of the ply surface the cut both stand pieces out with a jigsaw. A tiny bit of fettling with the sander and I have two templates for when I make up the finished stand. I’m on the lookout for some nice tropical hardwood for the job. I know nothing of Australian wood so I’m open to suggestions.
Jerry.
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(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/02/211FDAC5-C9B0-485B-9EF1-0F52F0E7800A.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/02/E035C731-D340-40B6-AF6E-DB94A9435A8E.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/02/1A6F00FE-EBE9-4F85-AB24-50BDBC3BFCF1.jpg)
Jerry.
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Hi Jerry good to hear from you I must be lazy as all I did for a stand was bend some soft wire around the hull where needed ,transferred this profile to the timber and the edges were lined with foam door weather seal <Bunnings would have the timber you need.
Cheers
John
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Hi again John, we must be psychic or something. This morning I made my daily trip to Bunnings looking for some wood. I got a 1200x300x18 board of engineered “Acadia gold Teak” for $20. Cut two pieces off for the vertical supports then trimmed the remainder to 56cm. I transferred the outline of the templates onto the two small pieces the cut them out with a jigsaw and tidied up on the sanding station. I marked out for two blind 1/4” mortices on the base board and cut them out with the Dremel router and fence. Put a 2” radius on base corners finally gluing up with Gorilla glue.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/03/079F6927-328B-4B2C-A72A-6011EEF7FDB5.jpg)
Jerry.
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(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/05/F42CA9B0-1B1F-4A0F-A0EB-410A87797B79.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/05/D0D89F3F-1B91-4639-ADF5-CC29ABBC35CB.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/05/FD2C5A77-9EAA-428B-9480-3FA80D06A1AD.jpg)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/01/05/EDAB54BF-BB52-42D7-8260-625C4A081120.jpg)
So I’ve been working on the deck form and supports. All made out of 6mm plywood. I used the forward deckbeam as a template for the aft beam as it’s similar sized. I made the corner fairing pieces marking out with a compass and matching up angles on the sanding station. On the next session I’ll cut out the side deck knees and their mortices in the side deck stringers. I’m making up all the names of parts as I go along. Caution they are not meant to be technically correct. But feel free to correct where necessary. I won’t be doing any glueing for a good while yet because there are more floors, steering gear, servos propshaft and floorboards to put in before the deck goes on. I haven’t found suitable squat gastanks in Oz yet and until I do I can’t work out the tank securing arrangement. I’m still waiting for propshop to start making props again after their fire. I want a 3” 4 blade really coarse pitch (at least 4 1/2”) prop. I can’t make a rudder without the prop so thugs may come to a grinding halt soon.
Jerry.
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Not sure if anyone’s interested but I’m camping on the shores of Lake Macquarie with daughter and son in law getting ready for them competing in the 505 Australian National Championship. The boat is called A Salt Weapon sail no 8738 and they are Sarah and John Macarthur-King.
This is a link to the Championship
https://www.facebook.com/Australian505SailingAssociation/ (https://www.facebook.com/Australian505SailingAssociation/)
I’m the old, white bearded guy with the glasses on the right full of Thai dinner.
Jerry
https://m.facebook.com/Australian505SailingAssociation/photos/?tab=album&album_id=921425874621306&mt_nav=1&ref=page_internal#!/Australian505SailingAssociation/photos/a.921425874621306.1073741829.329902580440308/1472503466180208/?type=3&source=54&ref=page_internal (https://m.facebook.com/Australian505SailingAssociation/photos/?tab=album&album_id=921425874621306&mt_nav=1&ref=page_internal#!/Australian505SailingAssociation/photos/a.921425874621306.1073741829.329902580440308/1472503466180208/?type=3&source=54&ref=page_internal)
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Ahah............
any day on Lake Macquarie at Wangi Wangi is perfect ...looks like the placing 7th is numerical %)....good luck to Sarah...keep us posted......Derek
PS.....I will get a map...& triangulate to find a good fishing hole.....it was one of the stacks at Wangi.....lined up with a HV 4 legged Eifel Tower type power pole and ??? <*<
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Another link.
https://macarthurkinginternational505sailing.wordpress.com/ (https://macarthurkinginternational505sailing.wordpress.com/)
Jerry
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It’s been a while since I’ve done much to the model. I’ve been to the National Championships of the 505s and I’ve been looking for stuff for the workshop. I’ve found Facebook marketplace useful and found a scroll saw for $30. While searching I also found this and as I’d had to sell my bike due to semi migrating to Oz the price was too good to miss!
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/13/F2FC9E79-5E9B-40F3-8F61-5793F8E826E1.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/B1UjB)
So this has taken up some (most) of my time. It’s a bit tricky riding a motorcycle in the temperatures of a Canberra summer so to get round it I got some motocross armour which is built into a net which means I don’t over heat and actually have more protection than a normal bike jacket. Trouble is I look like Robocop so tone it down a bit with a bright red T shirt over the top.
So, the model. I gave up on waiting for Propshop to start up again and bought a 14” 5mm propshaft and a Raboesch 4 blade 3.6”x 3.6” brass propeller from Float A Boat in Melbourne where I got the plans for S L Wear in 2011. The prop is not a patch on a Propshop one aesthetically but it will do the job and will let me carry on working. I can’t find any 1/8 scale (or any scale for that matter) checker plate in Oz so this was the nearest I could find from Bunnings. It’ll do till I get back to the boat in spring. I’ll get some in the UK and bring it out with me when we return in November.
The propshaft is in. I will rig up a dog drive as used on Wear. Got a bit of resin to pour at the 'bottom' end around the inner part of the stern post then I can get on with fashioning a rudder and servo placement.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/13/1E7B5F52-1A4B-4333-BB4E-8C985BDFEFDD.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/B1nKX)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/13/124DAA6E-A7E3-48F1-AC8C-AC3A35CBB85C.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/B1Xke)
Jerry.
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Hello Jerry!
Glad to see you back at work! :-))
Just to let you know that, since Propshop is closed, I personally try to improve the "efficiency" and "esthetic" of the Raboesh props by sharping and polishing each blade of the propeller.
I don't know if it improves the efficiency, but one thing is sure: it looks more like a real propeller.
And what works at scale one, should work at our scale! Don't you think so? %)
I take pleasure to follow your work.
Have a nice day.
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Hi Jerry hope you are enjoying the heat also love the bike but back to boats ,I have been around boats of all types most of my life and I cant recall seeing many if any props with bullet noses or have I missed something as they have always had a nut and pin btw have you had a chance to try out the bogstandard engine you built very interested in how it performs.
Cheers
John
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KB10.
I agree, the main difference between the two makes is they propshop have the correct section through each blade similar to an aerofoil section. Roboesch [size=78%]has blades don’t have this feature. In operation I doubt there is much difference in performance. I may take the trouble to get lthe Dremel out and do a little shaping. [/size]
John,
Neither of the engines have “run” either on steam or compressed air. I did try one on air but the regulator passed a lot of air. The regulator was made before the steam pipes were silver soldered and has distorted. A simple remedy to skim bore oversize and make a new inner turny bit. With hindsight I would have soft soldered them. I’ll end up giving the bits to my nephew, Ben whose little lathe I used to build the engines for him to remake them. It’s strange to move from the precision require to make engine and boiler to the “free spirit” methods I’m using now with the hull. The hull from new is distorted, one side a fraction lower than tother, port underwater section rounder than starboard. Design (in my head) has to remain fluid. It’ll all come good in the end.
Jerry.
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I’ve been working on the rudder for quite sometime. Started off with a cardboard one to get some ideas of shape. Next a full scale “drawing”, followed by a few tweaks.
Transferred the shape of the blade itself to a brass sheet through the paper with a fine nail and a little hammer. Used a nibbler in the lecky drill to cut the sheet without distorting it and finalised the shape on the 6” sanding wheel. Made an identical copy, cleaned and fluxed The mating surfaces and soldered both together using a pen type torch.
I soldered the blade into a groove cut into the shaft with my dremel and added a heel plate to take the bottom bearing.
I made up three hinges at once then cut through the tube to separate them tidying them up on the sander. Bending them to shape with a pair of pliers and little hammer. Added a steering yoke before fitting the whole caboodle to the sternpost.
I also put some proper sections into the propeller blades with the disc sander and finishing off with a fine file and a polish with the Dremel.
Jerry.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/25/623C4C55-46CC-4892-A2AD-2738D20312BB.th.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/Byxl3)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/25/AB699B91-AB78-4A16-8C57-1B6F0D160765.th.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/Byp5l)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/25/C1C05E1F-22FB-4E1C-92B8-9061BE80817B.th.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/By72Q)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/25/3D2B20FD-F01F-4A11-8CE6-9C67CCD86859.th.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ByRUu)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/25/89B27074-50D3-400E-873E-9B6FE1FF5584.th.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BysT1)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/25/A14D4960-16CC-490B-8F37-0EB95534A641.th.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/By5DR)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/25/5D8136F7-C323-4772-A1F5-DF93A136E116.th.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ByQ6G)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/25/EEC30101-0C3D-4448-A406-7096BA098F25.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/Byb9Z)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/25/D5D358C1-5AE7-48FF-815B-FDE96A4C909D.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ByDtn)
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Bonjour Jerry,
Quite original rudder but I have a doubt about its future effciency. As far as I know, it needs to be in the flow of the propeller to operate.
In your case, will it stay enough in this flow to do the job ?
Il like the idea and the shape, but have never seen such a realization, so it is very interesting :-))
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You may well be right. Only time will tell, but I hope, because the propeller is very large, that it will work with this rudder.
Jerry.
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Hi Jerry I really like your solution its very in keeping with the look of your launch. I do see Raphaels observation but who knows once on the water it may work very well :-)
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Hi Jerry a lot depends on the size of the boat I believe up to 16 ft the used pintles and gudgeons to allow the quick removal of the rudder
Cheers
John
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One of the Sea Scout groups I was with for a while had an 18' diesel powered launch that had a rudder like that and it worked fine. Most of our model boats use a balanced type rudder, but that is mainly because that is what the plastic ones are designed like. I see no problem with this one a great job on it. Just remembered the African Queen uses this type.
Gerald.
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It’ll work. Finished the servo installation and push/pull rods. Will cover the gaping holes in stern with tiddly slotted brass plates and rubber seals courtesy of my next puncture on my road bike.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/27/14F0E4AC-3ECA-46EC-89AD-514B0A3CB46E.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/B3uCG)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/02/27/9F47002D-DC7F-48EB-8B7D-3F63BB138F9F.jpg)
Jerry.
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I like your way of fixing the plate to the servo. :-))
This is a fixture that always needs thought when working out the steering.
Cheers
ken
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Hi Jerry,
Have you thought of an alternative way to fix the rods to your rudder.
I am at present modifying a boat with pointy ends and I have used some brass chain running inside 5/32" copper pipe and like your boat the linkage is well above the water line with little possibility of letting in water.
In your case you could use some brass or copper tube with a bore near to the dia of the steering rods and then fill the tube with grease.
Just a thought to save the time in making plates and rubber seals.
George.
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Hi Ken, I’m using micro servos and as such I’m limited in what will fit on the splines of the drive shaft. The servos came with a box of various cranks and screws. For this arrangement I used a circular crank wheel? and drilled through the holes in the brass arm into the plastic crank in the space where there were no holes and secured arm with two servo mounting screws. It’s really quite solid. I then ground off the plastic that showed just to please the eyes.
George, hi, agree that chain looks better but as I’m using micro servos I needed to take friction out of the equation. If running through fixed tubes then as the rudder moves through its arc the chains move laterally in and out with respect to the keel. Hence my slot. My slots are a disgrace caused by poor lighting, bad eyesight, and a Dremel with a mind of its own. I’m not operating under the same conditions I had at home. I’m really schooner rigged with hardly any tools. The brass plates I will fit are largely to disguise a cock up but they will be something for the boats future crew to polish in line with the Edwardian Steam launch practices of titivation! Also those clevises are listed as gold not brass so are a cut above. Stuff is really difficult to get here in Canberra. Post is really slow. There is one model shop but they really only cater for fliers or car drivers. When I ordered the plans for Wear 6 years ago in Oz I had to download the order form, fill it in in biro then fax it to them and send a cheque. I had to go to the post office to find a fax and it cost me $2.50 a page. They’ve still got faxes now.
Jerry
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Hi Jerry thought you might be interested Bunnings now stock 2mm x 500mm silver solder 5% @3 bucks a stick very good for all the little stem bits pipes etc
Cheers
John
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Cheers John, I saw that the other day. I wasn’t sure as it stated temp about 280ish so passed it by but now I think about it maybe it’s gotta be better than what I’m using. Thanks I’ll look into it.
Rgds
Jerry.
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Today I’m making a dog drive coupling to connect engine crankshaft to propshaft such that steam plant can be remove and replaced with the minimum of fuss. The crankshaft output shaft I very close to the propeller shaft but not perfect being 0.5 mm laterally 0.5 mm verticaly and 4° axially.
Yesterday I blagged this piece of brass rod remnant from a CNC works in Fyshwick.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/02/68F0660D-F4C7-4F7F-8CC3-0555B13DB22B.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/B3TcK)
[size=78%]I’ve no drill press other than the Dremel which is not up to this job and I’ve no lathe. I have a cordless drill and an ALdi tap and die set- metric and BSP. and a bench disk sander. [/size]
I cut two rough discs off it with a hacksaw drilled a 5mm hole through the centre of each disc as near centre and as square to the disc as I can by eye the drilled a 2.5 mm hole from the outside rim of each disk through to the centre hole. I tapped these out M3x 0.5mm. I mounted each rough disc on one end of the propeller shaft and secured them with a 3mm grubscrew.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/02/D8774BE5-397B-4A2D-A721-133F28191621.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/B3eIL)
Using the mitre gauge on the table set to 0° and clamped I ground down one side of a disc using marker pen as an indicator and shaft up against fence. until it’s face was square with the shaft. I re mounted the discs and ground away until all four faces square an discs of similar thickness.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/02/09D5BFF1-46DE-476A-A7C0-7BDEBE1D0942.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/B3jCp)
Removed fence and using the corrugated surface of the table as a guide by eye and felt tip pen as an indicator ground the discs circumference uniform diameter and concentric with shaft.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/02/77AA7CAD-682B-4918-9A2D-5C6F125F1C1F.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/B3ggo)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/02/3F2B9D13-4684-4A2E-A07F-62484EA5FF90.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/B3mow)
Will clean up with an old linisher belt and and tap one disk for a dog pin and drill a mating hole in the other disc.
Jerry.
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Jerry that is brilliant it’s amazing what can be done with limited tooling and a bit of imagination :-))
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Bonjour Jerry,
Thanks to you, I am happy to enhance my English, what you call a "dog drive coupling" is called a "TOC" in France,
I use this system on several of my boats, example ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utYZJDJPBVg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utYZJDJPBVg) and I think it is the most efficient coupling system if the steamplant is correctly aligned to the propeller shaft, otherwise you have to apply other solutions as gimbals : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIoFeZV-MhM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gIoFeZV-MhM)
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I just made up dog coupling but now I think about it maybe better to throw a bucket of water over them.
Any, here it is fitted in the boat. Looks as though a bit more support needed at the coupling end of the propeller shaft outer tube. I plan to have a bulkhead behind the engine to separate engine space from the cockpit. I’ll give it some thoughts.
Jerry.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/03/DCC6EBD9-993E-45B8-9443-9D8B7DB8E73D.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/B6tSR)
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Should have said I made up the name “dog coupling”. I don’t know what it’s really called but it’s meant as a noun, not an adjective.
Sorry for any confusion. Maybe dog drive would be more appropriate.
Jerry.
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Yesterday and today I added extra support for the forward end of the propeller shaft.
Then I added a pair of out board supports for cockpit decking.
[size=78%](http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/06/C1C696F0-DD72-42A1-8AAA-FDF2A4CB4500.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/B69zB) [/size]
Next I re-made new metal decking around engine/boiler that is a better fit after I levelled same deck area with gunwales. The whole shebang was a bit lower on the stbd side.
[/size][size=78%](http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/06/A848E5D2-F9A2-4302-8CAA-A621A6C1D566.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/B6CYe)[/size]
Then I made up some fairing pieces to tidy up the holes in stern planking for the steering rods.
[/size]
[/size][size=78%](http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/06/EACEC1C9-33BB-46AC-81D6-4EB48AE6901B.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/B6SpX)[/size]
[/size]
[/size][size=78%]Jerry. [/size]
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Nice work Jerry. I like the rudder! I built this orion mouldings launch a few years back. With an untrimmed hull, I had about 3-4" freeboard before balast.
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Hello!
She starts to look good! :-))
If I can make a suggestion: it is to replace those screws by hexagonal nuts.
You'll have with the sunny days coming back.
Regards.
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As mentioned before I have few tools here in Oz. When I got the Dremel I also bought the tiny circular saw attachment. It just screws on the Dremel drive end and gives you a 1 1/4” circular saw nearly at right angles the drive. I tried it freehand and it’s a total waste of space. Until a used table saw comes along at a giveaway price I’ve had to make one.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/12/29097908-1982-44CE-AAAD-8627827327F9.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BIlQR)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/12/2021F657-2B8F-4F92-96E7-157C7D158C6B.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BIjS1)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/12/E5D6BF65-3705-4FFB-9810-877F8AB29BC8.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BI4NG)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/12/2021F657-2B8F-4F92-96E7-157C7D158C6B.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BIjS1)
On completion I tried to cut the half round off a J section 4mm piece of Tasmanian Oak trim. It wouldn’t look at it, useless. The blade just choked in the cut and no amount of adjusting the fence would get it to cut freely more than an inch.
I need something so I removed the little blade which is quite sharp, and, using a pair of long nosed pliers I put a small set on every othe tooth then did the same to the remaining teeth in the other direction and hey presto I have a tiny table saw which made short work of removing the half round with only a minutes worth of sanding gave me two nice bits of stock for floor boards and rubbing strakes.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/12/45E9F123-0104-479C-BD17-849170A77F58.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BI7vZ)
Jerry.
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I’ve spent some time thinking about the woods I’m going to use to panel out the interior of the boat. I don’t know any of the available local timber here in Oz. Last evening we went for a pre concert meal in The Hogs Breath Café in the city and the rustic tables were made out of wide board of timber with both heart and sap wood. The heart was a deep red similar to mahogany while the sap wood was white or light yellow. A combination of the two would be ideal. After having a word with the management it turns out it is Tasmanian Oak. This is a puzzle cos what I’m using for the bottom boards is also Tassie Oak which doesn’t look like either of the above. Please ignore the blue markings, they are from helping out a friend on this site.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/13/EB667873-C0C5-4F98-BC9C-BCFA3F2F2B6F.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BIbqK)
Anybody help?
Jerry
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Hi Jerry boat looks great but as for tassie oak in Aus I believe it is just a trade name fake unfortunately so the reason for different colors.
I have some genuine red cedar and some huon pine i can let you have if interested pm me for approx needs
Cheers
John
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Would that also be known as “Red Gold”?
What I think I’ll do his head to the Big Green shed here and find a bit of old furniture which I can pick up for a song. That’s how I got the wood for SL Wear and my toolchest. Thanks for the offer but you hang on to that stock. I’ll find something and that’s half the fun.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/13/D03E156B-59AA-4E50-8F33-2CD88BC160B3.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BIdbL)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/13/D03E156B-59AA-4E50-8F33-2CD88BC160B3.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BIdbL)
Jerry
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(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/13/8202E87D-63D7-4EFA-B836-1A21BEA13925.jpg)
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So Jerry says....'please ignore the blue markings, they are from helping out a friend on this site'...
Oh yeah & he's still confused O0 ...he had to stand on his head to read them {-)
With thanks Derek
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That's funny Jerry because I found the wood for my wideawke launch from old dressing table out the front of a house ,turned out to be walnut and oak
Cheers
John
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Ive no drawings or parts list so I’m marking out in space here. Trying to expose sheer and camber with a bendy spine and some masking tape. I’m trying to show myself where the side deck knees want to be.
The knees are going to be in two parts. These are the side deck beams. Which will have supports fitted later when these are in the right place.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/21/0B4D82E7-444C-4F70-B29A-6F5F5A115485.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BMWPR)
Beams glued into mortices in deck stringer guided by tape.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/21/76B8F175-4C39-4852-A45A-B7D22EFBB8CC.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BMhHG)
Thought I should make some provision for access to steering mechanisms this will be a hatch of some sort later.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/21/11830324-484E-4052-8BE4-29D2DA9D0769.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BMiRZ)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/21/D37DC5FF-4D32-4BC6-B48E-D15C93A2EAD7.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BMvWn)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/21/B2B2F154-2F9D-4A38-8231-49C569800758.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BMHe2)
Finally the knees resting on second stringer. I’ve also shaped and sanded down the fore and aft deck corner pieces.
I’ll leave all this overnight to toughen up before joining the ends of the beam knees with a stringer all round to mount the cockpit vertical surround wooden trim which this time is going to be a Beech ply and end grain balsa laminate I hope.
Jerry.
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:-)) great build.. My friend build one of this hull to,, with a cheddar steam plant in.. 8 years ago
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9lgUdAa77o
Regards
Bernhard
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I had to get a bit inventive with clamping arrangement. I bought six of these. Hit turns out that they won’t grip on any surface so glued some worn sanding disk to pads with same result. (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/22/EAFAD74B-3672-4978-8369-48B1826DF3BF.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BMwyL)
This was the final solution. I’m using “extra strong” cyo but it takes a few minutes to go off.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/22/BFBA4700-8E1B-454E-8B4E-24E4540BF207.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BMSpw)
Jerry.
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I finished all the deck and cockpit coaming supports, gave everything a final rub down and shaping and coated all interior with red oxide primer.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/24/F6D1B36E-E49C-4197-A060-C9F2FB422715.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BM4wh)
Now, the plan is to use some very thin birch ply/1/8” balsa sheet/birch ply laminate to make up the inner cockpit coaming.
1) cut two strips with the surface grain of the ply sheet, wide enough to allow for the sheer and camber to allow for a scale 4” to show above deck after deck planks fitted, rising to scale6” at the foredeck with butt joints on the centre line fore and aft and a scale 3” to protrude below the deck line. These will be glued and pinned to the coaming supports and form the outboard face of the coaming.
2) mark out and trim to size above and below deck.
3) cut 4” widths of a length of balsa sheet and apply to inner side of birch coaming outer with vertical grain.
4) glue an inner section of birch ply similar to the outer On to the balsa.
5) trim to size.
6) cap the exposed top and bottom surfaces with birch ply and trim out.
What could possibly go wrong?
Jerry.
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So Jerry asks ......What could possibly go wrong? .....
________________________________________________________________
Digital images tend to distort dimensions .....however this is the same hull
Too long for the bath...too long for my vehicle, too heavy to lift >>:-(
Derek
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I have had to put a build on hold indefinitely for the same reason. Where I live I don't have easy access to the water that is available. Bigger and heavier models will be too much of a problem to launch and recover.
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I might keep this one on a mooring.
Jerry.
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Since last post I’ve been sidetracked to lesser deeds. Revitalised a tired 1:1 Mirror dinghy daggerboard. Better here than UK as I can get two coats of varnish on each side here. Also quite impressed with Bunnings varnish too. Goes on easy and flows well giving consistently smooth level coats.
Anyway, to business. When I could fit it in I attached the outer cockpit surround 0.5 mm birch ply sheet. I put it in without adhesive using loads of clamps. Then removing one clamp I wicked in some cyo replaced clamp, removed next and wicked cyo——— all the way round. When set I removed all clamps then, with the hull upside down, ran a line of cyo all round the underside. When all set I repeated the process on the other side.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/05/8228E473-015C-4735-937D-F4293444CD88.jpg)
Once the outer face had all gone off I got some 1/8” balsa sheet, cut slices with vertical grain and using PVA stuck these inboard of the outer ply to add some body and stiffness to the cockpit surround.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/05/1D587DC8-C7C0-42ED-BC82-CA71AFC987DB.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BUuVD)
Once all dry, removed clamps, cleaned up excess PVA from the vertical joints before glueing in the inside face of birch ply on one side. Tomorrow I will finish the remaining side.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/05/2059F5A6-5D1D-4434-9F68-10C0B016BD61.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BUCw3)
It is now really quite strong.
When it’s all gone off I will do a miniature version for the sides of the steering gear servo hatch coaming and then I will be ready to start laying the deck. Then I will be in a position to mark out and trim coaming to finished size and cap the exposed balsa filler.
Jerry.
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Bonjour Jerry,
Is your wife aware that you use her clothespins :} ?
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(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/05/5E094A76-05B7-4DA4-B44B-732E0936AB42.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BUSpQ)
This is what it looks like now.
They are not my wife’s clothes pegs, they are my own clothes pegs. So much cheaper than clamps.
Jerry.
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I started off today by finding the centre of the boat so I can get the centre deck plank in its best position. This is a compromise between measurement and visual be cause the hull is not completely symmetrical.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/06/5BB5FFD1-70DC-4C50-A2EC-13F65B8AB9DF.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BUmaG)
I’ve got a couple of A4 sheets of thin card which I’ve cut into thin strips a fraction wider than the planks are thick. Original choice was plasticard but I can’t find any. I’ve used PVA adhesive to fix strips all the way round the outer part of the coaming to simulate pitch caulking between planks.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/06/FC155F88-06FD-4CE1-943C-25D0D1C89507.th.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BUTRR)
Then I fixed the sections of the king plank with PVA.
[ur(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/06/55AE524C-31FA-4A89-BD0C-CD2353ED084A.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BUeel)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/06/FC155F88-06FD-4CE1-943C-25D0D1C89507.th.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BUTRR)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/06/CCF3F088-0AEB-433F-BBEB-627FF0F85553.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BUFhZ)
Jerry.
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:-)) I forgot to tell you that my friend's same boat weighs 42kg,, (he have allso cut it down)
this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9lgUdAa77o
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42 kg?! I'm surprised it even floats! And your friend must have big muscles to launch and recover that boat. It looks lovely on the video but where does all that weight come from? Jerry, do you have an estimate or goal for your final weight?
Greg
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Bernard, I’m not surprised it’s heavy because it is well “down by the head”!!
Greg, morning mate, I haven’t actually weighed it but I have put everything in it and dropped it I The bath. It floats quite high but with a nice presentable stern trim. I’m not putting feed water tanks in. I will take from lake as with Wear. If it’s too heavy to lift it’s going on a mooring!
Rgds
Jerry.
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:-) YES,, IT IS VERY HEAVY LOTS OF LEAD in it,, to much i think,, vi have to help him, every time he come to the lake,,and in and out of the car to,,too much trouble with a boat in that wight,,, GREAT BUILD YOU HAVE GOING ON,,
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:-) YES,, IT IS VERY HEAVY LOTS OF LEAD in it,, to much i think,, vi have to help him, every time he come to the lake,,and in and out of the car to,,too much trouble with a boat in that wight,,, GREAT BUILD YOU HAVE GOING ON,,
Bernhard,
I think that your friend should check the weight, 42 kg is 21 bags of 2 kg potatoes or in imperial 92.4lbs or 6.6stone, I don't think that he could lift it without a crane. !!!!!!
George.
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:-)) :-) haaaaa noo it is true i have lift with another friend more than 1 time,,, i tell you it is heavyyyyy
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Bonjour,
Bernhard, I trust you but my heaviest boat is my 1,37 m tug boat "Côte d'Emeraude" which weighs "only" about 35 kilos: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tSOSj89BY_M and you can see that is is a much bigger baby than Carsten's open launch.
My 1,20m launch eLiv@ (see Kingdon boiler topic) weighs about 15 kilos and is quite large too but high on the water.
Perhaps could we create a dedicated topic to share about sizes and weights in order to avoid polluting this topic ?
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Hello!
I know that she is heavy and according to what I read above, I had a doubt! :o
I just come back from my shop to put my launch on the scale.
She weighs 18 kg without gas & water (1.2 l)
I don't know why, but she is heavier and heavier through the years.... %)
Cheers.
Fanny de KBIO _ Scottish Fifties (http://amis-model-naval-rc.forumactif.org/t131-fanny-de-kbio-_-scottish-fifties)
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Hi Jerry you have made a lovely job of the cockpit surround I really like the way you have laminated it to get the shape perfect too. Looking at the pictures I had the thought that as its secured to a narrow strip will the heat of the boiler warp it in anyway? I obviously don't know what the next steps are but its just a thought.
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Hi Mark. Next step is the decking which I just started but had to stop to go and watch the Brumbies play Queensland Reds. It’s a hard life but I’ll make the sacrifice. At the moment the coaming is attached to a 1/4” square strip of spruce which incorporates a fair amount of sheer. The deck will add another 4mm (excuse the mix of units). After trimming to final size the coaming will be only 7/8” deep. It will be quite stiff and unlikely to move. As to the heat from the boiler there is none. It’s well insulated and cool to the touch. Even the smoke and fire boxes are cool. This boat is big and there is 2” clearance around steam plant. Marking out the cut will be easy but getting a good onetime clean cut is going to take some thought.
Jerry.
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Hi Jerry I had to Google that and I see that the Brumbies won the match........so I hope they were your team %%
Thanks for the info its all makes sense and also gives a scale of the boat that the pictures don't. 2" of clearance I can only dream of that sort of space - Keep the updates coming :-))
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Hi Mark, we will be coming south to the Midlands on our Narrowboat Angelica for the summer. Depart Chester mid May bound for the midland canal/river system. Will deffo do the Dudley Museum (got a lock in in the museum pub once). Will also be attending the Wednesfield Canal Festival at Bentley Bridge 11/13th August so maybe we can meet up sometime/somewhere??
Jerry.
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Jerry definitely thats a great idea - we can sort something out when you get down to this neck of the woods :-))
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Mark, follow us on Facebook
https://m.facebook.com/mimiandjemonthecut/ (https://m.facebook.com/mimiandjemonthecut/)
Our blog. Angelicas Adventures
Jerry
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Tis done :-))
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I ta taken along time to get the deck planks and caulking down. The wife had a heart attack 2 weeks ago and things have been a bit hectic to say the least. She’s back home now but has to have another stent put in in 6 weeks. They found she had had a previous MI which she knew nothing about but had automatically set up new vesse to bypass the restriction. They want to open that up and stent it. Consequently she is unable to return to UK for a year (we were due to return on Monday but that’s gone out the window now. I however have to return to look after our boat, batteries, rust and paint etc so will take boat out of the marina and wend my way down to the Midlands canals as previously planned so will still be able to meet up With Mark T in Dudley or nearby.
I didn’t want to leave without finishing the deck so I’ve today and half of tomorrow to sort it. A bit of sanding then fit the rubbing strips. The pencil marks on the foredeck are indicators for the sanding process so I can see where I am.
I will return to Oz in November so even though I’ve retired this is going to be one more trip away. Nothing really changes does it.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/29/CC6F72F9-28E9-4900-A3CA-278123992CBC.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BWD1h)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/04/29/7EC61539-1FAD-475C-87A3-AC2AAFFF5BA5.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/BWdOB)
Jerry.
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I forgot to give a massive Bravo Zulu to the ambulance, paramedics, Medicare, the Canberra Hospital staff and the Reciprocal Agreements. I imagine the Travel Insurance Company do too. She was assessed, admitted , tested for everything ultrasounds and X-rayed rapidly. She fell ill on Saturday evening, had angiogram and stented first thing Monday and back home Wednesday. We are so grateful we were here. Mind you having a formidable daughter as a recovery nurse next door carried a lot of weight. Wife was a nurse too. They look after their own here.
Jerry.
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Jerry...good to hear your Wife is progressing well.....also great to understand our OZ medical system in Canberra provided A1 :-)) quality service
Will your wife's medical condition/history allow her to return to the UK by flight?
The 59" monster <*< can wait....family first
Derek
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Hi Jerry I did see this on Facebook but I did not realise that it was your wife who had a heart attack! I really hope that she is ok and when you do get over here I'll buy you a couple of pints of Bathams real ale - its great stuff :-)) Mind you its not a good idea to steer a boat afterwards {-)
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Thanks Derek, care was Lloyds A1 +. The boat is our home and everything is tied up in it. If I stayed here it woul be 18 months away. Also we are continua cruisers so have to keep moving under the regs. It costs an arm and a leg to let it lie in a marina.
Mark I like real ale but I’m a Banks Mild man myself. We’ll share a few. Looking forward to it.
Jerry
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Sorry to hear about Mrs Jerry. I do hope she gets fully mended soon. And that you get your boat repositioned OK. Trying times for you I guess, but the steam launch will wait until you have sorted the really important things. Good fortune to you both.
Greg
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Ok guys and gals I’m back in Oz, in me shed and back at work.
First job was to sand down the deck planks. Got the edges square to the sheerstrakes. I’ve saved all the half rounds I cut off the L section Tassie Oak lengths. These I glued and pinned over the join between deck and sheerstrakes to serve as rubbing strakes. They took the bends with no treatment. Used polyurethane glue.
A half round cut down the middle gives two fillet pieces to fair in the deck to the coaming.
I made up some guides out of aluminium bar to fit on the Dremel so I could trim the top of the coaming at a constant height above the deck. The second guide on the Dremel cut the coaming under the deck at a constant distance from the top. I need a trip to model shop by airport for something to cap the coaming laminate which is made up of a cross grain balsa core inside two sheets of 1mm spruce ply.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/08/2DD0FE7F-C7AF-46F7-8C9B-F7ECEF8C0319.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/Jy1ow)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/08/DCD125CF-C62B-4873-8A9C-62F12C649C5C.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JyyCp) ψω
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/08/image.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JyPIL)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/08/EF1B1797-A4C6-47B5-ADD2-9ED4446D0F08.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/Jytgo)
Jerry.
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Great to see you back at the bench Jerry. And I hope all is well with Mrs Jerry, Angelica and life in general.
Greg
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(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/10/E2E4BF96-1EA3-4901-880A-98E281304A7B.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/J32zB)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/10/863EE75A-CDBC-4402-AC8F-D1810173653A.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/J3BpX)
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/11/10/BC86B800-752F-4A7A-8E8A-E2453B88910E.jpg) (http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/J38Ye)
I thought I needed a little mahogany to contrast with the white deck planks so used spirit stain.
I made up a soaking bath with a metre length of20mm plastic water pipe and a stop end to soak the 1/4round coaming fillets in cloudy ammonia solution prior to bending around the coaming. I’ll let them soak overnight and see what happens.
Jerry.
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Nice job Jerry and good to see you back in oz :-)) Cheers
John
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ThanksJohn. Mary much better, lost a load of weight(we both have). I’m feeling it climbing up Mt. Tennant on the bicycle, training for Decembers race at Jindabyne. Everything feeling easier.
Little work today, removed two strips from the soak tube and they bent around the coaming easily so left them clamped up to dry out.
Off to Queanbeyan for the town show. All the usual suspects but I love rural shows.
Followed that with another training run with Sarah, my eldest whose doing the race with me.
More tomorrow
Jerry.
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Hi folks, long time no post. I have actually done some work on the launch in dribs and drabs but haven’t posted for some reason, anyway here goes. I needed some form of deck rail to edge the deck with and to compliment the half round rubbing strake. The stock I’m working with is Tasmanian Oak machined semi L section. With my homemade Dremel powered table saw I cut the half round bottom of the L of and I chose a piece of the remaining 20mm strip to make to deck/handrail type edges. I mounted the Dremel into it’s router attachment then mounted that assembly into my cheepo router table. Using a 5mm straight router bit and putting in a false fence around the bit to fill in the large gap that the table comes with to give better support to the strip I cut out equal sections from one side of the strip with smaller equal supports left. Once one side completed I flipped the strip over and repeated the process on the other side. Replaced Dremel in table saw and cut the strip in half down it’s leng giving me two rails. A bit of work with an emery board rounded off the square section.
The curve of the launches sides is quite gentle so the railed can be bent cold and dry. Put the Dremel into the table saw and drilled 1mm holes in way of the rail supports. With polyurethane glue and 1mm pins I secured the rails to the deck edges.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/20/4C96D690-6A3A-47E8-BEB0-8C8E9BE79117.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/J9cVQ)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/20/31C5C3EA-DF0C-48DB-BB6D-40318BC5F85C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/J9OyG)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/20/BFEBF1FE-4781-4F60-B19E-859F3B7F7B2C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/J9HRl)
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My daughter Sarah and I completed L’Étape Australia successfully at the start of December achieving our aims and improving on last year and entered for next years ride. In January we did a 3 day tour of the Snowy Mountains carrying luggage and staying overnight in pubs and hotels. The beginning of March saw us ride in tThe Big Canberra Bike Ride 65Km, while my wife Mary bravely entered the 35Km Ride 9 months after her heart attack with Son in law Chris riding as her tail gunner/wingman. Medals all round.
The weather has been a bit cooler of late so got a bit more done on the launch. When I cut the top two planks off the original fishing trawler hull to change it to more of a launch hull of course I lost the stem and stern posts so I laminated some of my strip stock and made two posts. Which I glued and pinned in position. The laminations will be hidden by brass strip later.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/20/946DA0CB-1CBA-44A8-9343-4589B18C166A.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/J9Aww)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/20/F47EFF5A-6A6D-4426-96B8-DD66DA46BC18.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/J9TrL)
Jerry.
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Next I tackled the top capping to the open laminate top edge of the cockpit coaming. Trimming a half round strip to the width of the coaming laminate I made two caps. These were soaked in cloudy ammonia then drilled, glued and pinned in the same manner as the deck rail. Not 100% successfully at the tight fire and aft curves but when all dried out I punched the pins under the surface of the capping, filled with mahogany filler and after a quick sand the coaming looked ok. I stained the deck rails and capping and everything blended in nicely.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/20/21AA8765-8ED1-4047-B38C-9B040E6EB766.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/J90an)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/20/DD6668DB-2577-461E-91A9-E670B2928372.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/J99h2)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/20/63A99463-B838-4392-A4AC-04413EFA94D3.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/J9SkK)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/20/7DE5E8E0-4AE8-4E26-921D-D17A3A6810B1.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/J9Cem)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/20/A58B3E5C-839C-48E5-A0E4-5E9A75B799D7.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/J9wzo)
Jerry.
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Nice work Jerry, well worth waiting for. And I am very impressed with your cycling. You are clearly a lot fitter than me! :D
Greg
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Hi Jerry great to see you building again and it’s looking lovely ok2
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A couple of weeks ago I helped out at a work bee at grandsons play school. Cutting down some trees and getting rid. They had a garden waste shredder that didn’t work. I said I’d have a look at it and see if it was repairable. Turned out it was a simple fix but I needed to turn the cutter blades round to present the unused sharp side to the wood. The bolts were seized solid and couldn’t shift them with an impact driver. Heat required. I’ve got the burner I made for the boiler but had been told that the type of gas bottle (threaded self sealing) is not available in Oz. So, off to Bunnings to see what’s available. First thing I see is a torch with same kind of fitting as I use at home but only straight butane, no propane mix. Still one of those cans will do me fine to loosen the bolts. Then the rub, they have the torch and can as a set but got no refills. Asked an assistant and he told me I could get them at a camping store nearby. I nipped round and they’ve not only got them but also got the squat, low, wide ones too. These are the very type I need for the launch so bought two.
Loosened the bolts easy and returned shredder to play school in working order.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/28/7FA8858D-1167-4E81-B623-6D35CC10FAD2.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JCIDw)
Jerry.
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Next job is to make up a bulkhead between aft cockpit and engine. Simple construction in situ. A spreader across the bottom from hull side to hull side and another directly above just below the cockpit coaming. Then found Centre and vertical and glued a plane plank forward and aft from top to bottom. Then alternate stained and plain planks. On the port side I put in two pieces of 1/16” brass rod to simulate 4” brass hinges to a fake door. On completion I will make up a capping rail with brass inserts to replicate a lifting hinged section similar to a bar flap in a pub.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/28/890043B5-541C-4FA6-ACB5-675FC6ACDBAA.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JCLAo)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/28/890043B5-541C-4FA6-ACB5-675FC6ACDBAA.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JCLAo)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/03/28/63A41665-5716-4541-A989-A4D3CF849967.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JCz6L)It’ll come up lovely when varnished. Got to find a set of brass dolls house doorknobs.
Jerry
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I finished the bulkhead capping including two slanted pieces of brass sheet and faux hinges to replicate a lifting section of capping above the faux door.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/10/F7AC0095-526A-4975-8767-443B018CBED4.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JSXIu)
Next I started looking at making the boats wheel turn when the rudder moves. I decided on one full turn of the wheel for a hard over signal each way. I found a piece of dowel of roughly the right diameter to serve as the main drum for the wheel. Every window in this house has to be open about six inches to permit the evaporative cooling to function. A dowel is placed in the bottom window track to stop it being opened any further from outside to frustrate burglars. Wizzed a bit off one of these.
I searched the internet for 1/2” diameter brass sheaves to no avail so using two diameters of brass washers I soldered up 10 sheaves. On completion I mounted them on a 3mm bolt, stuck them in the drill chuck, clamped drill in vice and dressed up the sheaves with Swiss file.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/10/0D6CD031-E49E-48EF-A35C-F8675F4E75E5.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JShNG)
Using my standard stock I quickly fashioned a steering console? Using the sanding station and superglue. I made two mounting brackets using same method, secured these inside the vertical sides of the console with screws then applied superglue to the mounts and then applied the whole console centrally to the rear of the bulkhead and clamped it up.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/10/49BF0E7C-1F3B-4656-BCAF-6E9E2369BE2B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JSKoQ)
Once the glue had set I removed the clamp then ran a 5mm drill square to the bulkhead through bulkhead and console for the wheel shaft. Then, pushed a length of 5mm brass tube through the bulkhead and console to form future bushes for the wheel shaft to turn in. I wicked superglue around the tube at the forward side of the bulkhead. When it cured I removed the console securing screws and removed the console. I wicked some more superglue around the tube at the after face of the bulkhead. Then I cut the excess of the tube off leaving a bush fixed through the bulkhead. From the tube off cut I cut another bush and pushed that through the hole in the console. I replace the console in position and did up the screws. I slid the 4mm rod through both bushes then wicked superglue around the console bush. Finished console off by superglueing a 5mm washer around bush for the wheel hub to run against.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/10/012381DF-E787-4548-9780-75F5E1A4FC7F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JSANp)
Jerry.
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(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/10/F82C2503-FD7B-481F-9BBA-84490F993282.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JSivZ)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/10/AB3AA2B9-A91D-4EE6-93C7-983BD0941349.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JSG4l)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/10/A384CFA3-C601-40C7-8029-79EC749B8C94.th.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JSvJn)
[(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/10/19A97D4F-D2A0-46AA-8891-F406C1197FBE.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JSSSw)
url=https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JSHn2](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/10/C70A5243-167E-4D0C-9C83-4403CADAE1CE.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/10/9664E24E-8D2E-4653-9F80-A287D272F60D.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JS0qK)
The wheel, on order from Cornwall Models which I will pick up in UK and bring out to Oz in November, is now operated by lines and pulleys from the rudder servo arm.
Jerry.
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Made a start on the rear cockpit lining. The midship aft centre section is removable to access steering gear as are the two planks on stbd. side to access receiver and wiring.
I also made a swinging brass cover for the forward three pulley shafts so I can lubricate the wheel shaft forward Bush.
I also notice that the gas canisters are a “four seasons mix”. Closer reading of the small print reveals a mix of Butane, Isobutane and Propane, even though the store said not available in Oz.
I’m thinking of utilising building expanding foam to fill all void spaces in and around the hull to make the model unsinkable. Before I do I need to do a floatation test to find approximate waterlines) weigh the boat, do some sums to see if it’s worth doing. I’ll have to brush up on Simpson’s Rules, find some volumes. Learnt them 55 years ago and never used in anger since.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/13/CFD6C5D5-F3FB-4597-B4B9-7CC962C8E1B8.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JS5PX)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/13/04B2BA6C-97D7-47F1-AA53-CFC70FAD2693.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JSRbe)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/13/9CFCC314-4BBF-4EE9-9D61-0208B93B6BB2.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JSEvV)
Jerry.
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Thats looking great Jerry and very inventive too :-)) I've started using mahogany now and boy is it difficult to see your pencil markings on it after you've marked it out. Do you get the same problem as I find it really frustrating? I've never used a dark hard wood before.
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Hi Mark, both colours are the same wood, (Tasmanian Oak) but I’ve just used mahogany spirit stain to simulate mahogany. As to marking out I would suggest using a marking knife instead of pencil. If you can’t see it you can at least feel it. It’s use also minimises tear out when cutting. Mostly though I cut nearby and finish on sanding station. I find it’s much quicker.
It’s all made up as I go along. I’ve got to get some extension servo leads tomorrow. Unfortunately our one and only model shop is closing down at the end of the month. After that it’s all Ebay.
Im looking forward to meeting up maybe at the Black Country Museum, May or June, not sure when yet.
Jerry.
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https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F332563995912 (https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F332563995912)
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Hi Jerry thanks for the advice and link - I've got a metal scriber that I'll try and see how that goes. I found with this mahogany that the small planks don't like to be cut with a knife along the grain. It just starts to split, but its really nice to plane so I'm planing all of the tapers which weirdly I'm finding very therapeutic :o
It would be great to meet up just let us know - The only time we are away is the late Bank Holiday in May
Mark
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Today I drove to Fyshwick to the model shop to get an extra servo and some extension servo cables. Probably the last thing I’ll get from there as they close down next week, another victim of the internet.
On my return I sorted out mounting the servos for the regulator/direction lever and the whistle. To simplify I made two identical boxes, glued together with cyo, mounted a servo in each and glued them in position under the starboard side deck using Gorilla Glue.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/15/2F7692A9-03DC-49F1-BBC1-A670A6E85F55.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JSdV3)
Jerry.
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I missed a pic for previous post.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/16/68314317-F99F-4434-A4E6-45CB2FA0A4D3.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JSVYu)
Then postie delivered some dolls house equipment
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/16/73C5D022-5475-43A0-9EF2-36090CAA45FA.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JSqMQ)
Did a few more cockpit side planks then had some fun with building foam to fill as many void spaces as possible. Can be a bit unpredictable though. I was frantically cutting side planks to shape and glueing them in before a wall of foam advanced behind me. SL Wear wasn’t a suitable candidate for foam and I’ve always been concerned about possible sinking. I’m hopeful I’ve got enough reserve of buoyancy that this model can’t sink.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/16/FFF38E57-416D-462F-919B-B06B1E3EFEF7.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JY8PR)
Jerry.
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(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/16/85BA685B-57B6-49D2-9960-8F72C1B80439.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JSkp1)
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Jerry be careful using the expanding foam. Make sure there is always a space it can expand into. I used it in a hull once where it was completely closed in, During the summer three months after I had built the model, it was on display in the hot sun and suddenly the deck separated from the hull. While cutting the foam out I discovered that the center of it was still not set and on exposure started expanding. I contacted the manufacturer of foam and found out that if it was applied more than an inch thick there was a chance the center section would not set. I now use the rigid foam insolation and carve and cut it to shape to fill spaces.
Gerald.
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Thanks for that Gerald. 32°C in the shed today. I drilled through into the centre of the fore peak foam. It’s hard all the way through. I built up in layers, spaying watervas I went. It’s evil stuff, only moves when you’re not looking at it.
I continued with cockpit planking/foam until I ran out of stock. I decided I’d like to set the gas tank as far below the forward cockpit decking so I cut a hole in the decking, surrounded by a plywood ring. Cut up a plant pot to surround the gas tank, set the lot through the hole and squirted the foam in. Once it had set I removed the tank and plastic form. Tidied up put the deck back in. With the tank in the hole of course the burner is too low so I shortened the pipework, supported the joint inside a brass tube and soft soldered it. I’ll leave it like that for now. When I flash up the boiler I’ll check what temperature the joint gets up to. If too hot then I’ll silver solder it. I think it will be ok though.
I’ll get some more stock tomorrow.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/17/222A476B-D288-4D5C-ACE6-19581F935636.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JY1Vm)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/17/C4D1CD30-3F5A-4F27-80A3-8F9ED5E7A050.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JYfWn)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/17/3E63B18F-8230-4F1A-AC48-82A970652824.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JYte2)
Jerry.
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Managed to get all void spaces filled with foam and all the cockpit sides closed in with access panels for servos and steering gear. The receiver batteries live under the engine. So basically that’s the hull construction complete. A bit of cleaning up and sanding to do then I can get some varnish on.
Next time back in Oz it’s fittings and fixture, remake the regulator as it’s leaking past. I’ll bring copper pipe to get the steam plant sorted.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/20/F4B02E77-7DD1-41F9-A228-4E5BFCD5F8C2.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JYMR9)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/20/D69CE1D1-435D-467D-8534-323FFECD1F9E.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JYIHp)
So that’s me done. I’ll be posting again sometime in November as we return to our Narrowboat end of the month for our cruise around the Midlands.
Thanks for watching
Jerry.
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Hi Jerry,
The boat is coming along nicely,I would keep a check on the burner head, it looks very close to the timber, it's amazing how much heat is generated on that type of burner head and it may scorch the timber.
George.
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Hi George, how are you? I’ve been thinking about that very subject. It’s what passes for oak down here which should char rather than burn. It’s a work in progress and not finalised yet. I’ve got to find a couple of Terry Clips to locate the burner positively so will replace a section with aluminium chequer plate. I want to replace the aluminium sheet each side of the boiler with chequer plate which I can’t get down here. I’ll take some back with me. A small square of plumbers mat under the plate will protect below from any heat conducted through the clips. It will look more correct model wise.
Jerry.
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Hi Jerry,
We are both well apart from the aches and pains of old age, we are both 80 this year mine in March and my wife in April.
We are sitting in the middle of a heat wave today( Sat ) last week it was hoods and anoraches with temps at 6C today I went out to the car and the temp recorded was 32C.
I am hoping to get back out on the bike but so far it's been a cold east wind, just to cold for this old fella. When I get out I have a 30 mile circuit that runs along the Forth and Clyde canal and then up into some nice climbing country roads, I should imagine that by the end of April it will be O.K. to get out.
The burner head that you have is similar to some that I have and I have found that about a min of 1/2" from the O/D of the burner head is quite good and not too much scorching.
Take care and have a Happy Easter.
George
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I seem to be catching you up but still a young 70. I did L’ Étape Australia again last December with My eldest daughter, then a 3 day tour around the Snowy Mountains. I’ve got an early bird entry for this December too. I’ve managed to lose a fair bit of weight which makes climbing more fun. Another five kilos and I’m going to treat myself to a second hand carbon bike. My present bike is just some serious cyclist’s training bike. It’s got good gear on it(105) and good wheels but the frame’s just an Ozzie Opollo equivalent. Only cost me £200. I’m glad it’s warmer there now. We leave Oz next week for our 6 months on the boat
Cruising the Midlands. We carry a pair of bikes on the roof for shopping and stuff so intend to get some training in before the Étape.
All the best to you both
Jerry.
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George, my burner is a 2kW Sievert. When I first tried it I found that when warmed up it would work upside down off liquid gas. When I butchered it to extend the nozzle a piece of brass rod fell out. I presumed this transferred heat to act as a vaporiser.
Jerry.
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I’m more or less at the end of this years work. I varnished the stand an also finished varnishing the launch inside and out.
The regulator/direction valve doesn’t work. It did until I silver soldered the pipes into the block. The heat distorted the block. I’m taking it back to the UK to give to my nephew Ben. He’s got the lathe and can true up the valve, bore it out a fraction and make a new ?bobbin?, which should cure the leaks.
I’ve not yet run the engine on compressed air so I made two manifolds today. I had to do them by hand. I cut a slice off a 1” brass round and cut it up a bit like a cake. A bit of drilling and soft soldering and once I get some hose I can run it on air. A bit rough and ready but will get the job done.
I also addressed the possible scorching problem of the burner by cutting some aluminium sheet to carry heat away and fitted two Terry Clips to locate the burner.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/25/71B9E053-6B0F-488A-B174-2C4A54156E1C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JY9hM)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/25/B53D77EE-B833-4E15-BCAB-40D20C32DE83.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JY0aT)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/25/4FBE59A2-7295-415A-8AE2-8EA333D477E5.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JYHRV)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/25/34125151-3444-4174-933C-6CABF6684A28.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JYvuX)
Until November ttfn
Jerry.
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Hi Jerry great job love the old double enders actually helped build a full size about 16ft quite an experience ,just a suggestion a member of our club has a similar model and cleverly hid the gas bottle with a small timber step up and stowage cupboard,so hope the engine works well waiting to see her in the water
Cheers
John
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Hi John, my gas tank will become a table for two with champers nibbles and ragtime tunes. Should serve to hide the fact that the mirror image verticals aren’t.
Here’s a last look till spring. Laid up for winter.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/04/26/C5A90F26-60C4-43C9-88AF-E75957DB7B6A.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/JYCeD)
Jerry.
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Yea Jerry that's the one looks better than a commercial gas bottle as I thin they look out of place on a well finished model anyway best of luck.Cheers
John
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Jerry thats a lovely job it just looks fantastic and I agree with southsteyne2 we need to see some pictures of it on the water :-))
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I’m back in Oz! We’ve been back a fortnight. Had a few things to do though. Our daughter and son in law gave me a carbon bike for my 70th birthday. This was a super surprise as I was going to get one myself as a present to reward my weight loss. Since arrival I’ve been putting hours in on the bike to be ready for L’étape Australia in Jindabyne at the end of this month. This will probably be my last as it’s moving on next year and will need too much travelling to enter again. My little Honda CBR 250RA’s clutch springs gave out so clutch needed a rebuild paid for by selling my old bike on Market Place. Next it’s time to sell the 6 year old Ford Focus and get a 3 year old Toyota Yaris which is more suitable for city work. Still waiting on some paperwork before that’s finalised. Hope to swap tomorrow.
Enough of this, I’ve resumed work on the launch. Last year I ordered some bling from Cornwall Model Boats which we’re waiting here for me so I’ve installed that stuff and made a start on the stern seating and storage arrangements.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/18/1CBDDEA1-87F2-4580-B59C-B62A91DD0C8A.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZZjMV)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/18/CD5D86F1-12A8-496A-AA15-8E4DD04E105F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZZxpM)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/18/89BCD0D9-A567-43DB-89A3-C65A67103362.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZZlYT)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/18/89BCD0D9-A567-43DB-89A3-C65A67103362.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZZlYT)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/18/65FEF0A1-8690-4BC7-A885-1DB475C11ECB.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZZmFe)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/11/18/BB56C573-5932-4188-996D-6C7B81FE5DC1.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZZFVX)
Jerry.
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Good to see you back building Jerry and you go easy on that bike! My moneys on George in a race 👍
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:-)) Great build...will you cover the gastank..with a box with firewood and coal? have you don the shipclock ,,,
Regards Bernhard
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Hi Jerry,
Good to see you back on the bike, it's really nice but what's that up your jumper ?
t's far to cold up here just now to go out, temps today were quite constant at 1C all day and it sure looks as tho' it's another cold one tomorrow.
George.
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Hi George, Étape Australia rules bar E bikes but said nothing about E riders. That’s my fuel cell under my jersey.
Hi Bernard. Tank will have table and bench seats hiding it.
Jerry.
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[font=.SF UI Display][font=.SFUIDisplay]The new car, Étape Australia all sorted and done. In between I’ve been doing stuff on the launch. I need the gas tank and burner to “disappear” so first off I made a table with two short front legs. Next a pair of side benches and finally a curved bench for the after end. Made freehand with bits of strip, a little wood stain and cyo. Finished off with a few thin coats of varnish. 40° temperatures in the shed mean I can get three coats on in a day. Next I needed to make cushions for the benches. Previously on Wear I actually made cushions like real but in miniature. Never liked them so what to do. I got some 1/2” foam, some thin, stretchy maroon cloth. I cut the foam to shape, then stuck it to the benches with spray contact adhesive. Finally covered the foam with material, again, using contact adhesive. Result was crap. Just not right and glue not fit for purpose. Then I started thinking outside the box. Nobody will actually be sitting on them so no foam, make from wood (scrap Melamine), cover with material using previous glue and bunch up underneath. Leave two days then use belt sander to remove material underneath then screw completed cushions to bases. Looks real. [/font][/color][/font][/size][font=.SF UI Display][/color][font=.SFUIDisplay]Finally will get Mary to crochet a doily tablecloth. [/font][/color][/font][/size][font=.SF UI Display][/color][font=.SFUIDisplay][/font][/color][/font][/size][font=.SF UI Display][/color][font=.SFUIDisplay](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/16/F74E411E-563C-4ABB-AD76-ED7C531D9FBF.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZNEqB)[/font][/color][/font][/size][font=.SF UI Display][/color][font=.SFUIDisplay](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/16/598A73CF-480B-4602-827D-208F89E5C9F8.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZNbIe)[/font][/color][/font][/size][font=.SF UI Display][/color][font=.SFUIDisplay](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/16/9C287BF1-7C83-4EE7-8DE2-91AF72AFD20B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZNpSX)[/font][/color][/font][/size][font=.SF UI Display][/color][font=.SFUIDisplay](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/16/F436242A-2749-4418-A7BF-044C7D7C1B72.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZNrQV)[/font][/color][/font][/size][font=.SF UI Display][/color][font=.SFUIDisplay](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/16/285F62E0-0D0E-4377-A7E0-C273F1998D40.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZNdNT)[/font][/color][/font][/size][font=.SF UI Display][/color][font=.SFUIDisplay](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/16/E7DA8635-2104-4C35-B6FB-F2185F323353.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZNovM)[/font][/color][/font][/size][font=.SF UI Display][/color][font=.SFUIDisplay](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/16/6D686A88-FAC1-4F37-B2C4-91FE547DEFAA.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZNq4D)[/font][/color][/font][/size][font=.SF UI Display][/color][font=.SFUIDisplay](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/16/60EED94E-1512-483B-8163-18E0A5079251.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZNkJS)[/font][/color][/font][/size][font=.SF UI Display][/color][font=.SFUIDisplay]Also I found some miniature hinge bling in Bunnings. [/font][/color][/font][/size]
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Hi Jerry nice job there and if you need small hinges spec cases and specs are quite small and mostly brassCheers
John
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God ide :-)) and Nice when you get cold feet.
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I’ve been away from this job for a while isolating but things aren’t too bad in Canberra. I rigged up an air supply from our compressor. I’d already made a pair of individual manifolds for air running and fine tuning of engine. The engine is a little tight and took 45 psi to get it started but after four hours she was quite happy at 24psi. I’ll give it a few hours more tomorrow then move the air to the reverse manifold and run in in reverse.
I’m giving a bit more thought about piping the engine to the boiler so I’m writing a list for Blackgates Engineering. Hopefully next month I’ll have all I need to get the steam plant running as it should.
https://share.icloud.com/photos/0htH8mj-Jki5KqQQus1DmoYjQ (https://share.icloud.com/photos/0htH8mj-Jki5KqQQus1DmoYjQ)
Jerry.
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Nice to see you back Jerry, and good to hear you are staying safe. Will you be able to get out and about for a maiden voyage?
Greg
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Hi Jerry glad that your ok and good to see you back at it :-))
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Hi Greg and Mark, Canberra is not really like any other place. It’s similar to a Garden City/Town, few if any traffic jams, many suburbs each with own services and shops, nobody living on top of you. Most suburbs have their own “oval” for sport. We have everything including a velodrome, cricket(watched) my first test match here ( First for Canberra too). Population 380,000, 175/sq kM. To date 106 cases C-19 with 3 fatalities in ACT. It’s been a difficult 6 months. First we had smoke then bushfires close enough that we evacuated to the coast which had already burned. After the fires it was floods. Our flights were cancelled and we were given a voucher for the indeterminate future. We feel safe here and flying back to UK would increase our risk though if Scotty could beam us up life on a narrow boat would be safe but we couldn’t move about except to get water fuel and empty toilet. It’s turned all our plans upside down and will take 18 months to get our routine back on track. It also gets very cold here in winter but warms up most days so I can put in a bike ride every day.
As far as steaming the launch on completion, they don’t have the 3 bar/ltr rule here and seem a bit over regulated, test certificates and the like. I hydraulicly tested it myself to 120 psi and the working pressure is 60psi but of course I’m probably not competent to do it myself. I’ll bet the boiler tester hasn’t got a certificate of competency like what I have.
I’ll probably sell it and let someone else worry about it.
All the best to you.
Jerry.
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A few phone calls followed by a trip to a scrapyard in Fyshwick produced a manky bit of 50mm copper pipe work and two brass core plugs which they call welsh plugs hereabouts. The guy wouldn’t even let me buy him a drink.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/27/7727042B-80DF-4769-B85E-480BF2FACC68.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZsKTw)
I don’t know about you but I can see an oil trap in there somewhere.
Not sure what solder held it together but my 2kW burner wouldn’t look at it so I cut the middle but out. The copper was really quite thin due to corrosion inside but a night soaking in Bakers fluid cleaned it up enough to trim on the sanding station which I also used to cut out two 2 1/4” end caps out of brass sheet.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/27/B27E4EA8-F402-44BC-A9FA-BC645FEE37E4.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZsM8K)
The core plugs were overkill and anyway were domed when flat more convenient. Drilled one cap for three 1/4” x 40 too bushes
Which I soldered in place. Added a few fittings and need to find some 1/4” brass strip so I can cover it with timber cladding.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/05/27/2BF3E00A-B41D-41CB-BCEE-19336373A420.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZsUdL)
Jerry.
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Nice job that Jerry and very inventive too :-))
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I’ve finished the de-oiler/ condenser. I cut a load of Tasmanian Oak strips to length. I made them thicker than necessary and cut a chamfer on the sides of each strip then attached them to the copper tube with polyurethane glue. Once dried I rounded them off on the sanding station using the same center I cut the top and bottom plates with. A bit of mahogany stain then varnish.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/06/02/6E29957E-F70B-4B01-8851-1A2C620367CA.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/Z52Q9)
I’m pleased with the result.
Once dry I’ll put a top and bottom 1/4” brass banding.
Jerry.
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Lovely work Jerry. Just as we have come to expect from you! :-))
Greg
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Hi peeps. I’ve been busy since last post on pipework on the steam plant. Delayed waiting for parts from UK. The virus is causing problems for suppliers and postal services alike but I’ve learnt to be patient and so far nothing has failed to get to me. PM Research in USA supplied one of their beautiful whistles in a day and a half which is nearly beam me up Scottie time. They sent it by DHL which is OK with me cos they pay my Blue Funnel Pension so it keeps it in the family so to speak. I’ve kept with the horizontal/vertical convention eyeing one small “swerve” and used a pipe bender on the feedwater heater to clack valve as no way could I do it with elbows. My idea when deciding on heater bush positions wasn’t thought through properly. To be fair, you need to look quite hard to pick up on it. I did some research (cribbing) on pipe lagging. I couldn’t face doing so much string/polyfilla and paint so asked Derek Warner how he did his. Turns out he used the same method only better. He reminded me it was Mark T who used silicone pipe. A few PMs later and I was clued in on Silicone pipe. Mark said there were two types, one very expensive and one cheap. He used the expensive stuff, so I bought the cheap stuff. 20’ of white tube. Sad to say when it arrived it mad mor neutral than white. Anybody tried painting silicone? Well I Googled the subject and guess what, you can paint it. But first I painted the pipe before fitting the silicone which was an improvement but not sufficient. So I painted the silicone. The trick is to use denatured alcohol (methylated spirit) as a key/primer. When dry use an oil based primer followed by oil based gloss. The pics will tell the story. It’s taken a month once I got bits from Blackgates but I ordered short on the elbows and a 90° valve but they arrived yesterday so I should finish tomorrow. There is a tradition in British Ship building and pipe fitters that whosoever gets there first gets a straight run. So the plumber gets in first, fits the enginroom wash basin so the boilermakers follow and have to bend a 20” steam pipe around the plumbers 1/2” pipe. This is my take on that. Servo to regulator blocked by pipe. (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/01/02ABAF98-9279-4B1A-AB03-11B7561A9A98.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/Zrlm2)(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/01/ECF016A8-ED8D-4353-9FEC-C7FC240BBBD4.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZrOxT)(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/01/0EFEDB8F-2A64-47BE-B24D-DB0000D0928C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZruXD)(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/01/6974EA90-CAE6-4726-A2B6-85729978683B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZrwQ1)(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/01/91F0BF14-E0C3-4889-A4D4-45F32DE64AAF.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZrgOG)(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/01/36E3E210-B803-41E1-9F39-2BD06A51325B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/Zrm4Z)(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/01/36E3E210-B803-41E1-9F39-2BD06A51325B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/Zrm4Z)(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/01/F4BFE4AC-6D96-4442-B6D7-1D7463370502.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/Zrxom)(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/01/BAC6FEB8-5784-4276-8710-503A347F6DE7.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/Zr7IK)(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/01/317D20BC-7DF5-4F9C-9DCA-A12500EE91E1.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZrRCo)Last job today was to lower the forward support on the boats stand prior to a good clean and final varnish. Jerry.
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Well Folks, what can we say?......
1. that lace tablecloth whiteness certainly matches the engine+piping+insulation whiteness :-))
2. maybe I have missed a post, but did not notice that steam powered boiler water makeup pump?......tell us more
Keep safe Jerry......Canberra is so very close to Victoria & the border is manned by :police:
Derek
PS......
1. you are certainly correct with the Shipbuilding Code of Pipe Laying ........[a very costly example only to reroute such work to save removing the engine to get a 1/8" diameter tube out >>:-( ]
2. we see the boiler gauge glass is clean......is Canberra water really that pure? :o .....or are you using Woolworths bottled drinking water?
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Hi Jerry that looks great mate and who would have known you can paint silicone :-)) :-)) that’s given me a few ideas. Next time we meet up I’ll sort you out some decent white silicone too so that you’ve got some spare.
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Bonjour Jerry,
Great reaalization indeed, and I especially appreciate the whistle :-))
Furthermore, I discover a coupled steam pump, I can't wait to see this plant operating on steam as I have never seen one in a boat. I hope the boiler wimm be efficient enough to feed it and the machine.
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Hi Peeps, this is the feed pump machined from a set of castings and plans from Blackgates Engineering. I made it on the Jerry does some milling and turning thread.
https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZDyM3 (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZDyM3)
The boiler was on the same thread has only been filled twice, once for hydraulic test and second for test of safety valve after completion.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/02/8F2C7684-0AFB-4B0D-A0F5-B1ABB695F7EB.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZDIP1)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/02/7199469A-CB64-48D5-9E2B-5DA07EF00566.th.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZD6bu)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/02/D5BBB7BA-20D6-4783-9E63-C14FC0263AE6.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZD3SQ)
Derek were pretty safe here in Canberra only gets dangerous when I had to take my eldest to hospital in your town. As soon as the Queensland border opens on the 10th we’re off house hunting in Brisbane so a road trip looms.
Mark, hope to see you next year if we get home. Will always stop in Brum and Black Counry Museum.
Jerry.
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Feed pump
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/02/66BBF6ED-B09E-44D9-BFF3-09CE375F5569.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZDyM3)
Jerry.
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OK thanks Jerry......found it ...[grey matter issue >>:-( on my part].....I now remember the Bogs style reversing gear ......... Derek]
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=46477.0 (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=46477.0)
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Today I got two coats of varnish on the stand. I’d forgotten how I’d planned for charging the receiver battery pack so had to remove boiler and engine on tray as I did remember the battery pack is in the compartment under the engine. The charging connection I found behind two access panels in the cockpit side. I’d left a hole in the panels for the lead but somehow the plug had disappeared inside the hole. I retrieved it and it is now accessible as originally designed by removing the cockpit seating unit. The transmitter is powered by 4 AA cells which measured 6V so put some new ones in. Everything works as planned wteo the the steering which 1, is reversed, so I’ll adjust the transmitter and reverse the rudder servo and 2, the servo chatters if rudder is out of the water. Application of some physical resistance tames it though.
I decided on a name and had some brass (anodised aluminium) name plates for the bow engraved and two build plaques engraved for the stand. Name might have been Covid-19 but settled on S. L. Canberra. The 2020 build date will be enough to remind me of bushfires, floods and plague!
Next on the list is the canopy followed by attempting to emulate Bernard BB’s treatment of set decorations and equipment. Of which he is the Master!
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/02/205A3251-C58F-4EB7-AF43-3F7A1DD2DEFD.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZDMvR)
Jerry.
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I had a bit of bother the other day. My transmitter is a Spektrum DXe 4 SPM1000. I fitted the servos (3 micro) yonks ago and all was working ok then. However, when I’d got rudder, regulator and whistle all connected up the rudder servo needed reversing. Now, the TX/RX, servos were dead cheap and had no instructions so googled it only to find no mention of my TX but on reading other Spektrum gear info it appears mine needs connecting to a computer to tit around with the settings. I did find later that by configuring the sticks in a certain manner on switch on I can access the channels and reverse them. There were 7 different channels 1 to 7. Now I thought it was a 4 ch set so was a bit puzzled. The channels have aircraft names but not numbers. I used rudder for my rudder, elevator for regulator and (this is where I went wrong) what I thought was flaps switch but in reality was throttle cut out for the whistle lanyard. As I said all working but when I reversed the rudder I actually reversed the throttle which resulted in a lot of noise and the whistle lanyard pulled bar tight. After powering down and cutting the lanyard, I removed the offending servo, stripped it down and found the shaft for the first gear pinions had broken and not repairable. Obviously I was making a wrong set of assumptions so looked for help. I visited the local model flying club on Sunday morning looking for advice. This turned out to be Heath Mackey who also has an interest in steam. He insisted on visiting me and turned up 1 1/2 hourly later. He told me where I was going wrong and sorted everything out. Now I use ailerons starboard for whistle. I hadn’t allowed for sensible access to servos, connections and RX so had to do a bit of rearranging and prep for future problems.
I ordered 6 spare servos and to prevent future damage I knocked up some relieving springs modelled on yachty mooring springs for those who can’t moor properly but I made it out of a Biro spring and two safety pins.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/08/C33FC375-BF0D-426E-98D1-260B518395AB.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/Zd90u)
So, hull and steam plant all boxed off so now I’ve started thinking about the canopy. I want it to match the sheer I built into the hull and also match the deck camber, so it was off to Bunnings for the makings. Got some balsa wood and some hardwood dowelling, then to Office Works for some white card to make a plan out of. Marked the card with centre and athwartships lines, funnel and whistle positioning and cut out a rough, oversize oval. I stuck the cut card on top of the coaming and ran a pencil round onto the card. Removed the card and cut around one centimetre from the line.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/08/54EE05D8-67AB-48E3-ABA4-3D7CA9C5CE7D.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/Zdg2l)
Next I laminated two 6mm square lengths of hardwood and used masking tape to hold its shape while it dries.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/08/D68023B0-2FEF-46BA-8DA5-7B5A6C27318D.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZdAlZ)
On Wear I covered the canopy with calico which I painted to replicate painted canvas decking but on this model I want to use dolls house corrugated iron if I can find a cheap source. I love the use of corrugated iron on Aussie housing.
Jerry.
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Continued work on canopy. The card carries the plan but not pinned down rather supported by ridge and free form. It’s also sacrificial. Cut, sanded ends and fitted beams and outer ends. Nearly finished framing. I’ve used some kind of tropical hardwood 6mm squared cyo. Tomorrow will complete frame and add 6mm square balsa strip to top of beams and sand down to form the camber. If all goes well I’ll plank up the top with 1/8” balsa planks and finally use sanding station to define the coaming. I bought 5 metres of cabinet, iron on vinyl edging strip in dark wood effect.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/10/F8086420-B6CE-4F13-917A-1FF39EBFB334.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/Zdkte)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/10/023AA9BB-466D-4867-9F70-8A27150179B3.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ZdqEB)
Sunday we start our road trip to Brisbane for some house hunting for our daughter and son in law.
Jerry
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Jerry-- Nice to see this model in such detail. The boat looks great and all your detail is amazing. (It's sort of aground in the lawn photo) The curved canopy is very cleverly done with the arched ridge. Makes the work we both did on Wear-like flat canopies look a lot simpler.
If you are willing to import from USA, here's a dollhouse supplier who has a selection of metal roofing materials
https://www.dollhouseheaven.com/ROOF-PANELTIN12X16-P1622.aspx (https://www.dollhouseheaven.com/ROOF-PANELTIN12X16-P1622.aspx)
I finally saw that I never clicked "Notify" on this post, so I missed quite a bit recently. You been busy!
-Carl
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Thanks for that Carl. It’ll work out very expensive that way so I’ll think about making my own out of a couple of foil turkey roasting tins. I’ve just got to find a piece of ribbed decking plank to scribe the ripples into the foil or something similar like an old fashioned washboard.
Jerry.
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We got back to Canberra on Friday after our road trip to Brisbane absolutely knackered. Postie had been with my new 80mm three jaw chuck and half a dozen micro servos. The chuck was really good quality but supplied with three cap screws which I could not use as no space behind the lathe spindle flange so I swapped out the studs and nuts from the original mismatched chuck. After cleaning and lubing it fitted perfik with only .0015 runout.
I removed the damaged rudder servo and replaced with one of the new ones and now all working.
Then I carried on with the canopy. First job was to shape the camber into the top of the frames. Just done freehand with my palm sander. Next I covered the top with three sheets of 1.5mm balsa. When dry I trimmed the edges on the sanding station. Finally I removed the poster card from the bottom and cleaned up top and bottom with sandpaper. A couple of coats of Rustoleum aerosol white primer. I’m a big fan of this brand. We painted a new, marinised Ajax Diesel engine for a Newquay lobster fishing boat with it in 1955 and it still looked like new 30 years later.
Next a trip to Bunnings for 2.5 M of ribbed wood decking and Woolworths for 10 foil roasting trays to make up some scale corrugated iron sheets. No off cuts available unfortunately as I only needed 9”. Cut the bottoms and sides off the trays with scissors and rolled them flat with a rolling pin. Then I cut 36 slightly over width blanks to form into corrugated iron sheets. I cut a 9” length off the decking plank and 3/4” off the end off that piece. I cut 1 1/2 ribs off the small piece to use as a starter for forming. Using the bigger piece as the die I placed one sheet on the die with the left edge of the sheet lined up with the left long edge of the die and held it in place with two fingers I formed the first corrugation on the left edge of the sheet then continued from left to right until all corrugations complete. This allows the sheet to “shrink” in from the right. Once all completed I replaced the small piece wth the Luger piece and rubbed it back and for the over the sheet until all corrugations were formed to full depth. Turned over the sheet and reformed and repeated the process until sheet lay flat and true.
By the end I was forming one sheet a minute. Tomorrow I will clad the top of the canopy with the sheets. It was easier to do than describe.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/27/CA4CEAC5-496F-49A3-8B2B-7B505EC06A3E.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a2HH4)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/27/45DFC857-43A1-400C-BA80-44665AC46C65.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a2uRh)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/27/09E324BA-BE4B-490C-AAAC-B71E3A4AD29B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a29aB)
Jerry.
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I got the first side done today. Slow work. Securing with Polyurethane gorilla glue. Held down with masking tape.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/28/83F945BC-3F40-4133-B934-A8D94E5A00A0.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a2qhw)
Jerry.
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Nice work Jerry, very clever fabrication. I haven't seen photos of this type roof but I can tell one thing-- when it rains that's a very noisy roof! Thanks for sharing
-Carl
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Nice job Jerry - I take it that’s Mary’s rolling pin that she keeps you in line with <*< {-)
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I finished off the remaining side of corrugated iron then cut the crusts (top edges) off the roasting tins. I glued and pinned two lengths of 6mm square section of balsa wood down the ridge and finished it off with the aforementioned crusts. I ironed on the vertical edging strip and trimmed it down. A little random battering and ageing to take the shine off and canopy is ready to fit.
I have hardwood 4mm dowel which I cut into 8 off 6” lengths. I rigged up a jig to hold the inverted canopy horizontal and level and offered the lot up to the bench drill and drilled 8 blind 5mm holes square to plane of the canopy around the edge. Into these holes I set 8 off 3/4” long sections of 5 mm brass tube secured with cyo. When dry I fitted in the 6” stanchions. Placed the whole lot on the deck and with cotton pulled the lower ends of the stanchions into the coaming, wiggled them into position so all vertical and marked the deck with the required positions of the lower stanchion chocks. On the lathe I turned up 8 off 3/4” wooden dowels with a 5mm hole through the centre to take brass tube. Will throw them at the sanding station tomorrow and grind each one down to size and fit them all into position. The canopy top is still a bit too shiny so a thin dusting off grey should tone it down some. Maybe a touch more rust and bird shite.
My eldest daughter is an accomplished artist and is quite into indigenous art types. She’s studying the Canberra style pics with a view to a bit of artwork on the top of the canopy. I favour those pics made up of paint dots. Who knows either way it’ll be different.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/30/EEDFE350-70B3-4F63-87E9-B9EB54562A81.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a8ts4)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/30/7917A1EF-65A4-431C-AD2B-A4D2DBB2C33C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a8f0f)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/30/8EDA0CC1-A8D4-47F1-AEDB-8046DBECC47C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a8a3v)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/30/7EA5AAF4-E931-46B0-95C7-9691C0565B78.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a8Jr5)
Jerry.
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Bit of a production line today shaping stanchion deck mounts, cutting and inserting brass tubes, staining and varnishing. Also stained the stanchions and rubbed the boat stand down with wire wool and put on the final coat of varnish.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/31/95805EF2-8A48-4D97-9166-6693C0DDA964.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a862X)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/31/48FBEFA7-6A64-4052-898C-BB11DECD667E.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a8LKV)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/31/60CF4A03-C036-4983-A350-E5964366A1AB.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a8IAT)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/07/31/EC9A0A7D-9A9F-480D-AC02-4697BF519BB6.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a8MDM)
All done freehand on the sanding station.
Jerry.
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Canopy fitting completed, just a little adjustment to the stanchions required.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/01/8A8B7A8D-B408-4C21-9614-FBE07E87D601.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a8YtK)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/01/8A8B7A8D-B408-4C21-9614-FBE07E87D601.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a8YtK)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/01/F18A6196-9605-46E3-94DF-726CF7FCF4D7.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a8992)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/01/6C480F95-C50F-4503-BD36-5D0E6D605FF5.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a806n)
Jerry.
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Had a good tidy up of the workshop and found some thin brass sheet. I’ve been looking for miniature Danforth anchors but they seem all to be a bit naive and cost more than a real one. There’s not a lot to them really so found one on EBay which had some dimensions in the pics. Captured the pic on my iPhone, expanded it to my scale and drew a plan. Marked the brass sheet with marker blue, put it under the plan and marked through with a Stanley blade. Cut out the parts with straight snips, bit of gentle hammering and fine filing before soldering. Only took an hour. What do you think?
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/06/325DADF6-B0B1-4FBA-BB85-66AB0FA0430A.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aBZXR)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/06/7B934B6C-4408-4B42-9BD9-C8D4BF434581.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aB8xu)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/06/035F9715-F2D2-40C2-9139-D0D80FA4BC3B.th.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aB2GQ)
Quick flash of primer
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/06/2B8EADCC-A269-4CBE-8127-DCFE55942A2C.md.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aBJB1).
Jerry.
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I think it looks splendid Jerry. Well done. Looks like it will hold well!
Greg
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That is one lovely anchor Jerry - very nice :-))
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Jerry that is a work of art. I can only imagine that you have very small fingers! Some jewelry chain will make it usable? Very super work. :-))
-Carl
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Chain appears to be a bit of a problem scale wise. I t wouldn’t be studded on a boat like this and all the modelling outlets supply rubbish so cheapo jewellery shops seems the best option. I’ll know it when I see it. Actual assembly of the anchor is easy but needs planning and support. I only used soft solder and a pen type gas torch. Rest the parts to be soldered on a heat sink with supports/weights to hold the two parts used fine solder. Cut off the correct length, roll it straight and put it on the joint cold. Put the flame to one end and as soon as it puddles run the flame down the joint chasing the puddle. Only need one steady hand this way and easy to control. Then move on to another section using the first bit as a steady.
Jerry.
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Hi Jerry.
Billing boats make 2- types of chain both in brass
F2.2 mm x 2 m
F327 1.6mm x 2m
I have used the 1.6 mm chain as rudder linkage , it has 12 links to 1 inch. it runs very freely thro' 5/32" copper pipe.
You can get it at. (https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/billing_boats_chains.html (https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/billing_boats_chains.html) ) or any Billings boat stockist.
First pic shown at 1"
Hope this helps.
George.
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Thanks George, I did see that stuff but want 1/4 mile oval shaped links, however, if the joins in each link are soldered then I could soon make them oval. Are they? I only want 5”. Daughters going to go through her jewellery box in case anything suitable.
That hull is similar to mine which is 48” stempost to sternpost.
Anyway first I need a shackle, again nothing I liked on tinterweb so decided to make my own. Bit of scrap brass sheet, 1.5 mm drill and brass rod, tins nips and needle files and here we are.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/08/FE892C85-2E42-43F3-8DCD-2FDD801D1EB3.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aBUo9)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/08/DA1B2202-C1C8-489A-A8C8-84BA698CD8D7.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aBKgp)
Jerry.
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Hi Jerry,
The links are soldered but it appears that you would want the 2.2 mm links which I don't have any.
George.
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That’s ok George. I’m not on the bum. If I can’t find anything I’ll make up my own.What’s the story on that double ender hull?
Jerry.
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Hi Jerry,
The double ender is a TITANIC life boat made in Taiwan for display purposes only and as I had just finished machining a set of Reeves Marcher twin steam engine, so rather trying to explain it all to you here is a link to a forum that I use where I posted the build.
Have a read. (https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2988006-Titanic-lifeboat-steam-conversion )
Have a read.
George.
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Today I’ve been working on a spurling pipe for the anchor cable. I needed to make a very tight bend in a 5mm o/d brass tube. This is what I think I’ll need
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/09/ADD7354A-BB34-4369-90F2-15D3FFC22BF5.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aBcIP)
The bend is a small radius so can’t use my bending tool so it’s back to old fashioned methods. Heat up end of pipe and pinch the end.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/09/D1AED881-3F32-4417-B31A-07C18415DF95.jpg)
Fill tube with salt, tamp down well, heat end and pinch off. Heat centre and make a 90° bend using a 1/4” mandrel.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/09/B9BBF43C-9117-4868-B6EC-E9D845BAB21C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aBWQv)
Cut out the bend and clear the salt out. Not perfect but I can recover it.
Turned a mounting plate on the lathe.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/09/19549196-4F36-4A56-844B-7517DC3DA654.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aBiNf)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/09/6514DBFE-5F0C-4CE8-9134-9486D5DC98A2.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aBGO4)
Went to Lincraft and found some 7mmx4mm straight oval chain from the jewellery making section. Exactly what I’ve been after and well made to boot. Next I made the slotted flap that closes off the spurling pipe and supports the chain. Too small to solder so used super glue.
Time to put some grey primer on anchor and chain. When completely covered I’ll finish the spurling pipe.
Jerry.
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A couple of light coats of grey primer overnight and boxed off the anchor department.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/10/51AD6CD8-F3C7-42C2-9EB6-E81EC3311B31.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aBsbn)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/10/9567A31B-A6CB-4ECE-BCD1-0E11B8D6D66F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aBQvm)
Then made an ensign staff socket for the sternpost. Shows how I hold parts for soldering. In this case a 5mm length of s/s rod, a flat filed on the 6mm tube, paint on Bakers fluid and place a length of 1 mm solder each side. Then run the solder down with the pencil torch.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/10/DF6C587C-2640-4084-8FDB-B23F9FC25930.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aBEP2)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/10/0AAA30B3-7170-4307-977F-84C79E45F172.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aBb7K)
Tomorrow, the ensign staff.
Jerry.
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Good job Jerry. Nice metalwork and soldering.
And you know how annoying it is when some pedant picks you up on a trivial matter that really isn't a big deal? >:-o Well, grit your teeth because I reckon you have led your anchor chain the wrong way through the bushed hole before attaching it to the anchor.
Sorry. :embarrassed:
Greg
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Well spotted. I got it right first then took it off for paint. Must have been thinking about the next job. Fortunately the links aren’t soldered cos the shackle, chain in spurling pipe and anchor are permanently fixed. Cheers.
Jerry.
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Then again I might leave it this way but glue note under the table so I can show it when someone else spots it.
Jerry.
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some very very nice brass work..
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I’ve had several things going on since my last post. The first job was to rectify my cock up with the anchor chain which needed an extra four links adding in the correct position.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/18/B235802C-EDEE-48C8-9F2C-E65C644B4725.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aaeJ4)
Next put a length of 1/2” wooden dowel in the lathe and turned down to 6mm then put a taper on with a file until it looked right. Turned a bit of scrap brass into a halyard sheave for the ensign staff truck. Turned a truck, added a slot for the sheave and held in position with a 1mm pin. Soldered up a socket for the staff to sit in and glued it to the sternpost.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/18/20FFC0F9-936F-4C87-B75A-8B43330A7F05.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aawbP)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/10/0AAA30B3-7170-4307-977F-84C79E45F172.md.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aBb7K)
Gave Float a Boat a call and ordered a BECC Australian Marine Red Ensign. They’re a lovely quality piece of kit but by the time they’ve been shipped from UK and posted recorded delivery from Melbourne to Canberra become eye wateringly expensive. Wear had one so Canberra’s got to have one too.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/18/3F016842-5CDF-4D15-8F20-1FF486D97B0A.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aalFB)
Spot the grain of rice for the halyard toggle.
Next a small mast to put the steaming light on and possibly a house flag or boat club flag.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/18/57BA24C3-5A09-49D3-B74E-A917F096BC25.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aajnh)
Mary found me a clapped out port barrel with a leak on marketplace for $40. Always wanted one but they cost too much for me so snapped this on up. Filled it with water and kept a dribble going in and left it for three days to swell up and she’s tight. Sympathetically cleaned up the hoops, bleached out most of the black staining common to oak. Rubbed down and oiled with Danish Oil and it’s better than new.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/18/5C5E5EE8-8DA3-4EB2-ACFB-F9BBD8727F75.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aaxqe)
In between things drying or being delivered to stop me twiddling my thumbs I’ve made some mods to the lathe, adding carriage and cross-slide locks, chip shield made from 0.5 mm Lexan sheet, a screen on the back of the apron also made from Lexan to keep chips out of the travel gears and finally a chip shield attached to the apron made from 30mm angle aluminium to shield the feed screw from chips.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/18/B9D7B4B8-B881-4113-8046-88A3E3476330.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aam7f)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/18/7D7DE542-1215-4306-8089-0ED23195F9C8.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aagvv)
Jerry.
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I’ve been working on boathook, mop, punt pole and plank plus the mountings. I was worried possibly the boat was on the heavy side of expectations so, dig out kids paddling pool, remove spiders, leaves and dead stuff. Gave it a bit of a clean and filled it up for a float test. Was surprised to find she’s 1 1/2 kilos under weight with a too much trim by the 'bottom'. A 1kilo bag of sugar placed on the gas bottle table cover moved things in the right direction such that I reckon 1 1/2 kG under the forward seats should sort it. So I decided on a W/L and marked it fore and aft, port and starboard. I cleared by table saw, levelled it with some board and rigged up a jury level gauge out of a Danish oil can, a redundant spirit level and taped a white paint pen on the end and ran round the boat with it and painted the W/L. Decided I’m going for copper antifouling as I’ve half a can left over from painting one of Mary’s competition cake stands. Just got to search out some freebie lead sheet offcuts. See what I can blag.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/25/C745C80C-8B96-422C-B021-69A893A45041.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a13NP)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/25/D6B5CB47-8DBB-4381-A3F2-5439A4F6BC91.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a16O5)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/25/D6B5CB47-8DBB-4381-A3F2-5439A4F6BC91.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a16O5)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/25/EA95B148-EB49-4626-91A9-B700964F6A7F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a1NCp)
Jerry.
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I’m particularly pleased with my mop and boathook. Mop head made from a ball of the wife’s embroidery stuff, suitably off white and the boathook head is a bit of brass rod turned into a cone on the lathe and two bits of 1.5 mm brass rod, bent and shaped into the hook and spike and soldered in. Painted to resemble weathered galvanising. The gangplank has 600 wet and dry antislip stuck to it and galvanised bands on the ends.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/30/916F2E95-6B48-47D5-9FD0-4ABCD263884A.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aNzRl)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/30/1EB2748B-E760-4AF1-A6D4-276F83F91D5A.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aNXh2)
I managed to blag 3kg of old roofing lead sheet from a Syrian guy across from our house, Cleaned it up and cut to shapes with snips and used polyurethane adhesive to glue 741g into each forward bench seats. Which left enough space to secrete 4 cell battery pack under one and iPod Nano and earphones less buds under the other bench. The audio amplifier chip, power jack, input jack and speaker jack are fixed to a waterproof plastic box which will go between table and gas bottle.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/30/ED451DC3-E187-47DE-9674-CC42C6B1924E.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aNIyG)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/30/ED451DC3-E187-47DE-9674-CC42C6B1924E.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aNIyG)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/30/E506B188-E9B4-4ED9-99C9-0B6B97C58A4C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aNMuZ)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/30/5B056610-5374-4891-98D3-3277E518F6A6.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aNUan)
Speakers still on the way from China ( by trishaw)
Jerry.
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Those tools look very realistic Jerry and putting them on the roof gives the roof that something extra too! Lovely job its looking amazing and what a great neighbour you have to give you the lead.
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Navigation lights now. More 0.5mm brass sheet and solder. Bends formed by bending round an ali tube of suitable diameter. Painted inside Matt Black and a thin bit of 0.5mm acetate sheet slipped in to make the lenses.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/09/0DE8CAB1-E7B5-4ECB-B5F4-72D3D8A64F35.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aPR19)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/09/E95E81C9-C089-4B86-B062-F511C13D9C48.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aPsOP)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/09/E0F73235-DC53-4B5C-A83B-3780AAE875C5.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aP5x5)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/09/985E3FAF-F54A-4AEF-9014-FD5873ABE566.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aPQBv)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/09/3541B473-DF81-44C5-9593-86AF4CF45BB3.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aPbcf)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/09/9B6AB554-8671-4EBE-8508-9674C30D5275.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aPpg4)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/09/ECF93940-FBF0-4C35-8B0D-232326ACAB76.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aProh)
Then a trip to jaycar electronics for some thin wire, a twin AAA battery box with integral switch and some tiny leds . I wired up the canopy for the LEDs and popped them through hoes from below into each navlight fitting. Also added three roof lights to be covered by baby food bottle tops for light fittings. The battery box painted white and glued to underside of the canopy so I can slip off the cover to replace batteries. Finished off the day by pinstriping the waterline.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/09/19065468-C12D-4C41-8B3F-23FCC4B1BA7B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ayZcS)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/09/4DC71CDF-9A92-4F34-8E50-7D6A9FF8FAAE.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ayJBD)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/09/90421678-7A47-48B3-91B1-8E7B31EA7704.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ay84M)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/09/B76C5E3B-FB2E-48B7-90D7-4CF69EF7C169.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ay2OT)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/09/45DFFBF1-24DE-4D83-9AC7-3297DFE1D18D.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aPk1V)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/09/15B4CA86-A6B0-4620-BBB0-8E230938C2A7.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aPqQX)
Jerry.
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Missed some picks out of the music system.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/09/FBE01349-6713-4432-9E51-85E2D745A973.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ayam3)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/09/B8A38954-5821-499D-92E0-C002334C8AFD.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ayfoQ)
Managed to attach everything bar speakers under the table the gas tank valve slots in between.
Jerry.
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Rather neat brass lamp housings there Jerry :-)) ......
We see many Navigation light Regulations [Sea going vessels 1940+] but is there a record of the same for River and Lake vessels [tonnage related?] for earlier time periods?
Derek
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The main change that I’m aware of was the Merchant Shipping Act 1972 as amended. Where all collision regs were incorporated with agreed standardised data for lights , filaments, colours and sounds. Frequencies of whistles in proportion to size of vessel. All very technical but before implementation red, white and greens came in many questionable hues! The other thing was stopping peeps painting sidelight screens red and green and replacing with Matt black. This to sharpen up the cutoff angles of lights as red and green paint reflects the light outside required arcs. Similarly the filament in a navlight standardised as a single, vertical filament thus causing a point light source in the horizontal plane. As to river, canal and lake vessels, these are also covered but in general most small boats can pretty much manage with a decent torch. On the canals themselves in UK hireboats may not travel at night, private boats can and again only need to show a white light which is so they can see where they’re going. It’s rare to see boats moving on uk canals at night because you’re wasting valuable pub time! Incidentally, S L Canberra is post 1972.
Jerry.
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I’ve been thinking about the steering gear hatch. It’s been sat on the boat but not secured so I came up with a wheel and strong-back system. A bit more brass work.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/13/862EE56E-4956-4591-AC28-BFEA4D9E8D8B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aym7T)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/13/1F23A802-2D69-448A-A72F-C9689B5B8DF5.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ayeZM)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/13/8DA860CD-3108-4B32-B1BB-5C58E79109F8.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ayjnD)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/13/65A2B909-A4CC-4262-B225-19D53AB2C1EE.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aylFS)
Glueing in the wedges
[size=78%](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/13/B10ACAB6-7B0B-47AF-9F8C-58A0098E8B2C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ayxV3)[/size]
Jerry.
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Ingenious locking mechanism.
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Ingenious locking mechanism.
Yea that's a great idea and very nicely made too :-))
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(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/16/A0B75062-4C76-4486-A06D-95A56CE0B3E9.md.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a33wh)
Looks the part and works. Next are the compass binnacle which has been living in the lathe chuck for 3 weeks while I waited for a new parting tool. Now on the lookout for a 20mm dia. button compass to put in it.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/16/ADF4EF33-6689-4243-BD6A-18A34945B640.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a3yz4)
I’ve searched everywhere for a decent searchlight of the correct size without success so out with the tinsnips again. I domed the rear by tapping the brass sheet with a small ball peen hammer on a piece of softwood. Bit of filing and wet and dry to remove tool marks then all soldered together. I was planning on making it swivel and tilt via a lever under the canopy but didn’t leave enough space between the lamp and the mount and couldn’t face remaking it so it’s static.
So, just a life ring to make, it’ll be red and white because I’ve no international orange paint but I might find some reflective tape, then after we visit these two Indiginous Art exhibitions on Friday then I’ll hand the canopy over to daughter Sarah to work her magic. Inside the boat I need a ladder from gun whale to deck plates, connect up speakers ( when they arrive) and my work is done. She will need a strong box made up to protect her when we make the move from Canberra to Brisbane whenever that happens.
A few things to get for my lathe such as a milling attachment (I’ve got one in the UK which Nephew Ben might let me borrow back again plus BA tap and die set which is his). Then I’m looking at a new project to keep me off the streets. I’m considering a Stuart twin launch engine from castings or maybe a PM Research engine but got to work on the budget a bit.
Jerry.
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Ok, on the home straight. Life ring made from four sheets of ply with grain alternating. I got about 20 little tins of Humbrol and Revelle enamel paint plus two plastic kits for free off Facebook market place. I’d forgotten how nice they are to work with and how long they take to dry. It’s faux reflective tape cut from one of those stickers you put behind car door handles to protect paint from scratches. I also found a source for lamp shades. Previously on the Wear build I used the tops of Actimel bottles but they don’t sell it in Oz so found something a bit more stylish. The tops off liquid baby food squeezy sachets. The canopy is with my artist daughter who is going to work her magic with dot painting Aboriginal style. I’ve asked her to sign under the canopy just in case she’s a future Van Dyke or something. I made a box to keep the boat safe for our move to Brisbane. Wife thinks I’m gong to do her in! Thinking about it.
[(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/28/image.th.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aLTPw)
url=https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aLYYK](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/28/415F3537-3173-4435-8DCC-A286EDD1CDD0.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/28/886B01EA-C690-4034-9383-FFA1555934D6.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aLwbo)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/09/28/A880BD3D-F507-4DC7-ABA8-758ADD2C0ED4.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aLSMm)
Oh yes the 2” loudspeakers I ordered 3months ago didn’t arrive so I got a refund and got some locally (Jaycar). The system works but the volume set on the iPod Nano is very low and the volume switch on the headset doesn’t work so I need to borrow another headset to turn it up then all systems go. Steam testing awaits!
TTFN
Jerry.
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I’ve been laid low with a viscous cold for over a week now but ventured into th shed yesterday and realised I’d totally forgotten about making something to prevent the steam from the safety valve blowing the canopy off so I made this uptake fitting to cover the safety valve and divert steam up the pipe and through the canopy ridge. Also drilled four radial holes to divert steam horizontally as well which should prevent any restriction to escaping steam.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/05/8EC89805-D6C6-432A-B6C4-B1D2E4EDE01A.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aI7lZ)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/05/65CA6E41-2741-4BF3-81D3-DC2CDCDEB126.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aIs2l)
Jerry C.
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Looks nice, but don't the radial holes defeat the purpose of directing the steam up the pipe?
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The safety valve has 6 holes in it. This is enough such that when it lifts the pressure ceases to rise. Putting a tube onto it is a restriction which might be enough to cause boiler pressure to continue rising after safety lifts. To be sure I’ve added the radial holes. This discharge sideways doesn’t compromise the security of the canopy.
Jerry C.
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Hi Jerry how do you adjust the blow off pressure?
Cheers
John
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I don’t John. It’s preset at 60psi. When I did the first steaming test it worked as designed. This boiler makes a lot of steam very quickly. Previously on Wear I reduced the psi setting on her safety but it became unreliable. The guy that made advised me to leave it on 60. I’ve got one spare bush so I can add another safety like steam locos have if it proves necessary.
Jerry C.
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The 20mm compass I ordered arrived so that’s boxed off.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/14/65CACFBB-1510-43CA-AEE7-F5E414C2E6AA.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aM4Qh)
I managed to find some scrap brass round bar 1.24” diameter which is near as dammit 32mm so that’s the chimbly cowl a press fit into the newly painted (satin black) Funnel.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/14/2EBA05A1-4D60-4D96-8E8B-7CAC82DACAD1.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aMsOe)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/14/218CC841-64A1-4FBC-88D3-838A0A059B90.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aMRNB)
The artwork on the canopy is coming on nicely.
Jerry C.
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(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/28/0CD9717B-3F39-40DD-9E02-31330AB3E2EA.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aUgBR)
I copied this idea off Keith Appleton on YouTube as one, it makes it look less like a camping stove and Two it may help with absorbing some heat to counteract cooling in operation.
This below however is something else entirely. This is my daughter’s view of the sun setting in the Brindabellas. The sun is the Funnel, the rays are the suns. However it’s two pictures in one. The sun also represents the State Circle in Canberra, the centre of government and the rays represent the main roads joining it. The photo doesn’t do it justice.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/28/F37D57F2-3E64-4327-BFC5-95876CF6A9E0.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aUA41)
I have to wait a couple of weeks for the varnish to harden. Dot painting on miniature corrugated iron is a challenge.
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Hello!
Lovely and very creative idea !
Congratulations to the artist! :-))
Perfect launch with smart details!
Have a "nace da' "!
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Ok, that’s a wrap, all finished, 8 years, doesn’t seem that long. Canopy painted by Sarah King, keep your eye out for her. I think it’s a stunning tribute to Canberra and the people here before us.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/29/ABEA48B5-92FC-4581-954C-73190429BED8.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aUFmZ)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/29/23197CE7-D69A-42CC-9053-17523BBCA84D.md.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aUeol)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/29/56A7BE3B-8FD7-4FBB-9443-B5EAEC3D3827.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aUlIn)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/29/2DCF20AE-44DA-4D20-AC40-E78EC3E1C3E8.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aUxS2)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/29/C04A35A5-4525-4B75-B719-2A0222296BAA.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aU4Qm)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/29/5C2768D2-8EAA-4A8D-814D-F01C505E9D20.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aURNK)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/29/AE22711C-0EA2-4B09-B196-E5F576E64FE8.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aUsOo)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/29/72164534-C175-4CD9-9BA2-37678685F252.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aUQJL)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/29/B1B9B455-E186-4304-BFE9-46C3BB804184.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aUbcp)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/29/6F843030-841F-447F-9EEC-2E7E2F6ADE15.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aUpm9)
Lugging it in and out of the shed for pics reminded me I’m going to need a launching trolley. Last week I read through the “Natterer” build so what do you think?
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/29/F27DE83C-1819-4597-B6CD-916CFCAF769F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aUdI5)
Jerry C.
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That's great work, you should be very proud of that. I love the trolley too :-))
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Excellent work Jerry can't wait so pictures of her on the water :-))
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Greatttttttt :-)) :-)) :-)) launch
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Hi Jerry, just catching up with your build. Your daughter's work is amazing, such a clever way to decorate an otherwise pretty boring surface. And your work is pretty decent as well! I assume a maiden voyage is imminent, if it hasn't already happened? And that trailer is a project in itself, especially the wheels - I had a go at making cartwheels ages ago and gave up (although I didn't have a lathe, which might have made getting them round a little easier!).
Happy New Year!
Greg
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Thanks Greg, happy new year to you. I didn’t build the trailer, it came up on a thread so I thought I’d give it a go sometime. You don’t need a lathe to do circles. I use a sanding station. Just drill a hole in the table on the wheel at the radius and gently turn the wheel for perfik curculs! I use my cheap ALDI station for so many things. I’ve cleaned up most of the Stuart-castings on it even the chilled ones. As for the launch, I made a nice storage/transportation case for it for an impending house move to Brisbane but that’s been put on hold indefinitely. Son in law is a Correctional Officer (Screw) but if he moves out of state he has to retrain and start at the bottom again and wages are much lower away from Canberra A C T. I’m very pleased with the canopy art, it came out much better than I expected. The only downside is it hides the “corrugated iron” I took so long to make and fit. It’s a tribute to Canberra and the original people in the area.
I’m waiting for a new 4jaw chuck to replace the broken one so at present turning the forged crankshaft between centres. It’s a "xxxxx" because the material is awful and testing my tools and sharpening skills to the limit. If it fails I’ll have make a built up one but I really wanted to keep the first one original for sale purposes. The sale being to finance one of my own and another boiler. I should live that long already!
I see Mark T has started another epic build, looking forward to it. Hope to see him again in Dudley when we get back to the boat. With the vaccine in sight it’s starting a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel.
Anyway, all the best cos it can’t get any worse, can it?!!
Jerry C.
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Jerry just realized I never followed up to the completion of your 2nd model-- so many ex
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-hit return I guess... sorry... exquisite details, and very artful; The dot painting on the canopy was a real treat. It's pretty clear you always have fun doing these things
-Carl
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Nice work Jerry C! Functional art.