Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Engineering Techniques and Materials. => Topic started by: tizdaz on December 24, 2017, 06:47:31 am
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Hi guys,
I've been bashing my head all night on best way to connect rudder shaft to servo linkage, what methods do you guys use to connect the rudder shaft to the servo linkage ?
My rudder shaft is a plain 4mm stainless steel shaft
Cheers
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If you search on 'rudder' there are some good examples from mayhemers :-))
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hey, i did a search but didn't really find anything, although i did find out that the reason washers are used is to act as a barrier of water being thrusted up the tube from the prop wash, but couldnt find anything about connecting rudder shaft to servo linkage :(
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Hi tizdaz pm sent.
Stan
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http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,10599.msg99377.html#msg99377
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I used the earth pin from a uk electrical plug, filed it to shape and drilled holes to connect the push rod, the rudder shaft was a perfect fit, just tightened the terminal screw - not sure if my rudder shaft was 3mm or 4mm though.
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sorry mine is a 3mm shaft.
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no probs thanks anyway :)
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Hi I usually make my own tillers to suit, are you able to do basic metalwork, not difficult but you need a few tools.
You could use a piece of Meccano, several come with collars or bosses on and they have a tapped and fitted screw, Meccano is 4mm shafts and holes etc. I sometimes use the Meccano collars and solder on a hand filed and drilled tiller. If you have a Meccano source they also do a hexagonal screw as well. The Meccano collars are brass and solder up well.
Hope this helps,
Roy
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I was thinking of making my own, but I don't know if i could trust my solder work! I would need to silver solder it as its a large heavy rudder for my 1/12 build, i'm ok with normal soldering but silver soldering i've only done it a few times :s
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Hi soft soldering will be quite strong enough, make sure you have a nice hot flow of solder and that will do fine. As a comparison soft soldering is over 10 times better than an epoxy joint.
I have used silver solder but it is OTT for this.
reagrds Roy
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Hi soft soldering will be quite strong enough, make sure you have a nice hot flow of solder and that will do fine. As a comparison soft soldering is over 10 times better than an epoxy joint.
I have used silver solder but it is OTT for this.
reagrds Roy
ah ok cool, would this be ideal for soldering my rudder onto the shaft? The rudder is 2mm brass plate & the shaft is 4mm Stainless steel? I also have some JB Marine weld which i guess i could use afterwards as extra strength?
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Hi, my soldering suggestion is for soldering a collar to the tiller. The tiller needs to be screwed to the rudder stock. I would never solder the tiller to the rudder stock as you cannot remove the rudder for maintenance or for painting. I pointed out that Meccano has a standard of 4mm for shafts and holes so might be useful. Sorry for any confusion.
regards Roy
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Hi Tizdaz
have a read through the majority/some of the masterclass builds you will find a mass of information there; of rudder linkages prop shafts and soforth - done by various members of this forum. If you look at the Spashett fishing boat build which I did some time ago - you will see exactly how I linked my rudder to the servo and actually made the linkages and rudder.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,13888.25.html
john
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Hi Tizdaz
have a read through the majority/some of the masterclass builds you will find a mass of information there; of rudder linkages prop shafts and soforth - done by various members of this forum. If you look at the Spashett fishing boat build which I did some time ago - you will see exactly how I linked my rudder to the servo and actually made the linkages and rudder.
http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,13888.25.html (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,13888.25.html)
john
great, thanks :)
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hi tizdaz just a few pictures to show the tiller arms I have made. I have done away with the silly small grub screws and fitted a m3 bolt instead. If you look at them you will be able to turn them up side down just in case room is a problem. I have not drilled any holes in the arms this can be done later. I looked at using the brass pegs from a 13 amp plug but the bolts are very poor metal. So I just soft soldered some brass shim onto a brass collet that's it. Just final point I have 2 pieces of s/ steel rod both 4mm one is just over 4 mm and the other is just under 4mm very hit and miss.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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Great stuff! spot on thanks a lot Stan :)
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Whatever you do, do not use M2 grub screws as the hex hole is too small to reliably work. I planned to standardise on these but after faffage with getting the right Hex spanner (.9mm) {:-{ it did not seem to fit all the hex holes, so I would go for Stan's easy to see bolts or just a larger M size that allows you to see the hole! I make my tiller arms and collars from brass rod drilled and shoulder machined and a copper arm with two ends so that two linkages can be used to improve security in case one rod fails.
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Hi ballastanksian,
This is what Stan has kindly made for me :) so will be using a normal bolt (not grubs) :)
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Hi Tizdaz will be sending some M3 bolts also. I tried m2 bolts in collets they were two small next size up m3.
Stan
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great stuff thanks stan :)
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Received the tiller from Stan, does the job spot-on, thanks Stan much appreciated! :)
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HI Tizdaz no problem glad it fits ok.
Stan. :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-)) :-))
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its perfect, cheers Stan ;)