Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Other Hobbies and Interests => Topic started by: xrad on January 27, 2018, 07:46:21 pm
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Yes, I know there is no D100.....until now! Extended D90. All metal frame, links, driveshafts, axle cases, rock guards, bumpers, front + rear light guards, window guards, and roof rack/rack grill. Working lights, winch, diesel sound, turn signals. Extra heavy custom cut springs(inside shock cases) , rust effect paintwork, steel wheels(w/6mm offset), angry old driver! tow hitch, swing out rear tire mount and machined steel rear door hinges. Oversized 1.9 tires. Brushed 540. I moved the steering servo off the front axle and mounted it to frame. All electronics in cabin. Easy access to esc starter, lipo charging cables, and off road lights from rear door. Runs and climbs like a champ, but I have to change the pinion to fewer teeth( or different wind motor)...just a bit too fast...
Super fun build! :}
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That is awesome - it looks like something that Kpnuts had made and aged! What make is it?
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Had to take a second look and read before. Save for the tyre on the bonnet it looks just like the ones I see here up in Inverness (yours is a bit cleaner though).
Superb!
Cheers,
Rich
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Thx for compliments!
rc4wd /axial brand and chinabay parts, and some of my own parts..... about 10 companies selling variants of same parts under several name brands....many really good aftermarket options too.
Parked it outside!
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Great model the Landy. I am just putting the finishing touches to my RC4WD D90. So many hop-ups/add on's though, when will the spending end!
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Exactly RMH! Spending never ends....but I lucked out and bought a big box of rc4wd LR stuff from a guy on Craig's list for cheap. If you don't mind the wait on shipping from china, you can get steel roof rack as cheap as 18$, front bumper 24$, steel bead-lock rims w/tires 19$ for a set of four...just have to do careful shopping
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One tip for construction on these hard body crawlers: Anything that has a 'pin-into-hole' like windows, headlights, door handles, LED's, or for holding wires in place, etc... i use hot glue. Easy to remove part for fixing/replacing. Holds really well, just need a dab.
The extended body panels and other permanently fixed parts get Devcon plastic welder 2 part glue. Works great on this type of plastic.
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Needs lots of mud on it!
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Built two more. Love these kits. The new ones are cut aluminum frames and support parts. I like the Green one with the all steel axial chassis, but the aluminum ones are more rigid. 45 turn motors w/14t 32p pinion work great. The real pain is the battery location. Hard to get to to charge so I have to wire a remote hook-up like I did for the green rig.
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Outstanding, superb work, really like...well, all of them :-))
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Thx for comment! I had a bit of trouble locating camel trophy yellow in the states. I used Zero Paints ZP-1088 undiluted (as directed) enamel? with an airbrush. it has poor coverage and comes off easily(even with the recommended testors primer) until fully cured (which I think took about a week of drying). Took 20ml to finish one d110 body (and not spraying the roof). Probably mix my own Model MAsters acrylic color next time. Also, ZP1088 has very bad fumes and I had to clean my gun with acetone....
RC4WD: I bought the D110 from rc4wd directly(USA site). Fast shipping. unfortunately the body was crushed, apparently before shipped to me. But rc4wd replaced the body free of charge in a week. Also, they are pretty fast in the email replies. Been happy with my purchases from them.
PS: NECA 7" Harrison Ford/Deckard is driving the D110!
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Still some work to do on mine. Agree with your comment on the battery charging access. How did you go about making a remote charging point?
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Nice work RMH. I like the dark red. Just a set of Deans connectors on an extension and a 3 wire JST extension run to the back door(which opens for charge wire access). I will post pics.
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They look great.
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Thx KPNuts! You will love this. I call it 'Details'
3D printed a v8. took about 3 hours to print the parts at .2mm thick 30mm per sec 5% fill. I wanted it smooth but not too crazy about getting a smooth print. Thingiverse 1/10 scale. Did the plug wires in correct order. Rough finish. No one will really see it. Steel mount. Engine also acts as a shock tower brace due to close fit on each side.
Printed a license plate holder. Rusted some perforated mild steel I had left over from another project, makes for some nice sand ladders...and only cost a few cents.
By the way, the ebay red 19$ '20kg' servo works great. Better than any other 'high torque cheapy servo I have.
More details to come!
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Rusting.....away..... ;)
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Wow those lights look like the real thing .
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THX KPNuts! So here are some more pics of the build. Running great. Climbs well. Some of the extra parts merged on to an axial chassis:
1) gool rc 45 turn 540 motor
2) ESC w/brake 60 amp (comes w/ motor for 19$)
3) GTPower rc lights w/turn signal control
4) GDS racing steel driveshafts (excellent)
5) hot racing (H R) axial SMT10 43T 13T steel bevel diff gear set
6) aluminum shock tower brace
7) xtra speed cast metal axle sets front and rear
8) bull bar
9) d90 fender flares
10) CChand metal window screens
11) CChand metal headlight guards
12) CCHand metal taillight guards
13) CCHand metal air scoops
14) engine sound module accelerator
15) axial 1.9 ripsaw r35 tires
16) +6mm offset steel lug wheel hex adapter
17) 128mm bent aluminum links
18) avis racing bearing set
19) integy main aluminum/steel gearbox and aluminum gearbox mount
20) HR aluminum diff box F + R
21) Turnigy receiver on/off switch (for off road lights and dash lights)
22) aluminum front frame servo relocation mount
23) 1/10 crawler shackles
24) scale by chris accessories
25) rc4wd scale taillight covers
26) aluminum rear bumper mount
27) vinyl 1/10 scale NJ license plate
28) stainless servo steering guard
29) rc4wd steel beadlock 1.9 rims x6
30) yeah racing 1/10 scale winch and remote unit (excellent product/gearbox...just have to resolder the wires)
31) D90 1/10 steel roof rack (excellent product from china..just had to cut and braze to D100 length)
32) rc4wd steel exhaust tip
33) Light up CB, dash, and nav system (yes I could have 3d printed on my own, but didn't)
34) labeled 'Land Rover' mud flaps (from china and I'm pretty sure no royalty payment here...not the 'rc4wd' labeled version)
35) Modified rc4wd hard-body D90
36) rc4wd rear bumper with tire mount (excellent)
and I am sure a bunch of other parts I can't remember. Honestly, I like the old scx10 axial steel chassis better than the rc4wd Gelande new aluminum chassis because the body is held on by clip pins. easy on/off. The new Gelande bodies are held on with four screws that are not so easy on/off. Spaghetti monster threw up some more wires today! Rust effect on the engine mount. I let it sit for a bit in the stew and it came out nicely....... and a shot of workbench destroyed with artistic talent! I will post some vids of rig in action soon....
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That looks so complex I wouldn't know where to start.
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The kits to build the basic model are fairly straight forward to put together then you just add optional extras of your choice as and when you desire. They are very satisfying to put together but don't take very long compared to building a model boat
Richie
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These Landy models seem to be as common as muck . . . just finished mine, RC4WD bodyshell
grafted onto an Ansmann Master Smacker Chassis - see google album
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipM8Cp5KJyUJTEW9TD1SSEAOZZOa9Mmxyc5XLKf_df3c1qboJZTlUy1mT1ykEruxpw?key=MVdtbWZCYUxtYnF3ZnhhSXUzTVpaU3hBSmt5anV3 (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipM8Cp5KJyUJTEW9TD1SSEAOZZOa9Mmxyc5XLKf_df3c1qboJZTlUy1mT1ykEruxpw?key=MVdtbWZCYUxtYnF3ZnhhSXUzTVpaU3hBSmt5anV3)
Richard
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Basic kit is an easy build. But you can go as much into detail as you like. Machining parts, electrical accessories, paint, etc. And then you can take it out and beat the heck out of it in a mud puddle!
vid of lights and sound:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6ClRZO9bNw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y6ClRZO9bNw)
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Finished the roof rack details (held in place with a dab of hot glue onto the expanded steel roof rack) except a fishing pole or two.... I 3d printed the LPG tank. It came out ok. little bottle of Stoli in the coke crate :-)) . Just have to wire up reverse spotlight and taillight. This rig is getting heavy...
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Finally got the basic wiring done for D100 horn. Was a real PITA with hours wasted using integy RC switches. I bought one a few months ago and it worked great. Bought a new set of three and none of them worked! Tried x2 Tx's and Rx's and compared to know good unit. So returned them (one nice thing about amazon..the return policy)
Instead, converted an old hitec servo with x2 resistors , got the positive out to fire a 2222 transistor, which grounds the trigger pin 00 on the wt588d. Best part is that the spectrum dx5c Tx has 5 channels, 3 of which are very easily programmed as momentary on, on- off, on-off-on, and 10 other ways. The momentary Tx function is key as needed to initiate the transistor and thereby the wt588d trigger. The wt588d trigger will not refire if the circuit latches, but it's nice to hit the horn sound over and over rather than having to wait for the whole thing to play out.
Just need to isolate a small amplifier into the power supply and get some real sound. The wt588d amp is only .5 watt. Upgrade to ~3 watt will be more than adequate.
Total cost would have been under 20$ for all the parts AND you can program any sound byte into the wt588d. I used this board for my bell and fog horn sounds on the lightship build.
vid:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hIEKinKPZ8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hIEKinKPZ8)
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Well...had it all together until I hooked up 11.7v reversed to power regulator and fried all the components! New transistor, new wt588d and reprogrammed, new amp, new power supply...anyway, all good now! 3D printed a first aid case for everything, only 50cm long.
Parts:
pololu 2.5 amp 5v supply
adafruit 2.5watt 5v amp
blue LED
old servo (modified tower hobbies servo)
wt588d sound board
a few resistors (20ohm x2 for wt588d spkr output, x2 for the servo..don't remember the ohm's, one more for servo output)
3904 transistor (started w/2222 but ran out) In retrospect, I should have added a diode in place of the resistor at base of emitter (between the emitter and the servo control as it has a reverse voltage when in the 'off' position...but seems to work for now)
12v diode
wire
speaker
a RC Tx w/momentary capability on at least one AUX channel (it will work without momentary switch but a little more cumbersome functionality)
patience
big issues:
1) Had to 'fake a speaker' for the wt588d output. I used one 20 ohm resistor on pos and one on neg) so that I could use the 2.5watt amp. 8ohm not enough, and needed on both + and - . The DAC output was not good enough on the wt588d either..
2) basically, two similar voltages come together, the servo motor output (which triggers the transistor) and the power for the sound/amp side. I used a resistor and a diode to make a one way from the transistor emitter to the common ground for the sound/amp side. This works well. Eventually all will power from one lipo.
3) finding the correct (or near correct) resistor pair to fool the servo (replaces the pot) took a bit to find them. never get 'zero' volts at the motor output, but close enough that the transistor sees 'negative' and does not fire.
4) had some amp power isolation issues
5) a few other bugs worked out..sounds way better w/2.5watt amp
vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kTjTD6arPQ8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kTjTD6arPQ8)
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Also in retrospect, I could have used pololu RC switches. ~5$ each and already have isolated power RC side from duty side. I ordered a few for next project.
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If you want to add some sound to your model, here is basic explanation. On the left is the servo 'switch.' I would recommend a pololu RC switch instead of the servo board. I hooked in an LED so that I could monitor the switch action. Next is the sound board wt588d (16mb version). Yellow wire is the sound board trigger connected to the transistor. Sound board has 8 or 9 other 'neg to ground' triggers or hundreds if you use a digital/arduino type control unit. Third board from left is the 2.5watt amp w/twisted pair for speaker. Then last on right is the 5v 3amp regulator.
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Made some mods to the horn. I was getting a bit of interference with the servo mod and the engine sound speakers. So out with the modified servo board and in with a Pololu RC switch low-sid MOSFET. Very nice unit. Super cheap and super easy to use. It is programmable, but not necessary with a Spektrum Tx. Servo freq. worked fine as already set in the RC switch.
I had to create a pull to ground to fire the sound board as explained above, so this was done by using the two NEGATIVE side solder lugs on the board. One is connected to the yellow wire for the wt588d trigger, and other one connected to common ground for vehicle. ALSO, you will need to solder the power jumper on the RC switch if using one power source. The blue LED is now unhooked as it ran off the servo board. Everything else stays the same, including 5v regulator to power amp and sound board.
Added an FPV cam to the D100. It's located on roof of passenger seating area. Hood mounted tire is a bit in the way but you get used to it..... Good view in the dark. I used an eachine ev800d with built in DVR. Worked fine after formatting the microSD card to FAT32 and 'automatic' and giving it a very short name. NOTE: the vid is recorded in .avi and the sound does not play on all movie players. Much on the net about the sound not recording, but it works fine on headset playback and using windows media player. Sound is terrible, but I will eventually redesign the Tx built in mic which may be the issue. If it is in the headset board, then that will not be fixed. Video is very good for the most part, and frame rate is very fast. No hesitation when recording and a fairly steady picture for being bounced around on the ground! Only drawback so far is that the on screen 'battery' indicator is NOT accurate at all. Comes with a nice 12v 500ma wall charger. Supposed to get ~1 hour of run w/record time on the built in battery.
See videos:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQlRjlMw8IE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jQlRjlMw8IE)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzyQUeXktjw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzyQUeXktjw)
Lots of wires...long time to get all configured...Clover antenna for video Tx. Folds down when not using. Camera is not too obtrusive. I plan to put a few on my RC boats. The horn really is just perfect for this scale. Sound is loud and clear, much better than in the vids. I also added 'Main' and 'camera' on/off switches. 'Main' powers all the ancillaries, and 'camera' just powers the camera. One major reason I chose this particular camera/Tx combo is that the cam and Tx are separate and easily remotely mounted from each other. There is also a ~3" extension for the antenna, making mounting it much easier. Finally, the cam and Tx run off another Pololu 5v 2.5 amp voltage regulator hidden with the Tx in another little 3D printed black box on rear corner of roof.
First pic is camera and Tx and 5v regulator in black tape. Next is the horn unit with new pololu RC switch. Final pics show the video Tx antenna and new back up spotlight.
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Great build :-))
I knocked my D90 together with a Tamiya crawler CR01 chassis.
Petrified of getting it dirty :embarrassed:
(http://i1088.photobucket.com/albums/i333/John_Clarke/20160219_162655.jpg) (http://s1088.photobucket.com/user/John_Clarke/media/20160219_162655.jpg.html)
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Nice paint on the LR body! Had some drive shaft issues running the big hills near home. Seems that when I trimmed down the steel driveshaft (chinabay brand) that the 'D' only goes about 8mm or so deep into the tube. Did not notice until today that I had only about 1mm left after trimming but this stripped out. Now getting the more expensive but much better GDS brand where the grooves and splines are deeper (depending on the length) and more length choices.....
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Fixed the driveshaft. Just heated up till red hot and hammered a D shape into it, then cooled in oil. Held up fine. Bought a Radiolink 6 channel Tx. Came with Rx for same price as 6 channel Rx only from spectrum! Works GREAT and extra Rx's are super cheap. Just print the guide off the net. So far zero issues and very easy to use. Main menu and sub menus all 'loop' which is a nice feature. one button to view 'all' channels and functionality. I had to add a three position 2 way switch to channel 'C." easy to do. Now my winch works again! %%
Needed 5 channel min for : thr, str, horn, extra lights, and winch
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I also added a 2.5amp regulated 5v pololu power supply for the winch instead of running it through the Rx. Just cut the power line from the winch Rx control unit plug and add the power from the pololu unit. Ground remains the same back to the Rx. This new power line also has a dedicated on/off manual switch(sub switch to main manual switch) in case I don't want it accidentally triggered. The extra lights and horn also have dedicated regulated 5v power from battery through a main manual switch. Only the low amp triggers are connected to the Rx.
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wrong post