Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Any Other Builds => Topic started by: Tinny on January 29, 2018, 04:12:17 am
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Currently 2/3 through a maritime based diorama.
There are many photographs, so I plan to download some everyday until I catch up to where I am in the project.
Last year the Ballina Naval & Maritime Museum (http://www.ballinamaritimemuseum.org.au/) (NSW, Australia) acquired the original console (1964-1995) for the nearby Wardell Lift-Span Bridge. They wanted someone to convert the console to operate a model bridge. To cut the long story short, I was requested to do the conversion, scratch build the Wardell Bridge, and build a boat to traverse under it. All to be done for an allocated space of 4 x 8 foot display table. In other words, a diorama.
I have never built a model before this project. Have done the electronics side via RAAF Avionics, but that was 30 years ago. At first I could not fathom why they requested me. Then I discovered that the whole museum is run by volunteers and they had nobody silly enough to do it for free. Someone told them I was already a volunteer for another organisation. I guess volunteers don't have trouble volunteering.
There are no available plans or schematics for both bridge and console. So the console had to be reverse engineered, and the bridge was mostly measured by extrapolating photographs. The end result is that the whole bridge can fit across the 8 feet display by using the 1/72 scale.
I am currently building the boat for this project, and it is in the sub-forum _ Beginners start here... Symmetrical Boat (http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,59933.0.html)
(https://i.imgur.com/rEIkL3K.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZvGofFM.jpg)
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Peter.....we read of your volunteer work in the Symetrical Hull Build thread.....[I have some extended family of similar age group living in Ballina]
[my greatest Ballina joy was entering the huge new Coles Supermarket some 35 years ago with wife & 3 young daughters in toe.....when the eldest daughter says Dad....Dad....."it's Libby....Libby is around the freezer corner" ...... ....so I continued pushing the now over grown large Coles trolley wondering who Libby is :o....& there in front of my eyes was Libby.... in all her glory & short shorts ....yes our own Ms Newton-John..... :kiss:............]
So back to volunteer work.......I found myself engaged in a dis-similar role.....fixing baby micro-switches, sub micro pneumatic cylinders and 12 V DC solenoids on point systems on a rather large 5" track until my back advised me to find alternate activities ...
So this is where I sit/stand...in a semi quasi management role {-) ...the most difficult part is getting 1 or 2 people from that endless group of Coffee talkers to do something ................
So we wish you well in the Bridge Diorama Project [a Bridge Too Far? :o] and will await further postings
Derek
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Derek, I got a few laughs from your post, thank you.
I have to admit that our curator, and president, are very busy men, (shhh, I think they might be workaholics). If it was not for them the museum would not be as great as it is today. The rest of the crew generally wait for someone else to do something, but in all honesty they are a conscientious lot.
Anybody who becomes a bit over expecting of others quickly gets reminded that everybody is a volunteer.
Thanks for your well wishes for this project.
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Here is my proposed design and plan for the display area.
(https://i.imgur.com/t2Midol.png)
The Table top has to rest on a steel frame of given height.
The boat will have a vane attached to the keel, which goes through the display table. The boat traverses back and forth via a pulley cable system.
(https://i.imgur.com/wR8ixv8.png)
I spent a good month designing and drawing plans before any construction work.
Below is a montage of several drawings made for the project.
(https://i.imgur.com/UQbW3E7.png)
Above you can see a control box area under the tabletop. This is to house the pulley cable systems and various electronics.
The pulley cable systems.
This system does not need the counterweights, so they are false (balsa). I am relying on the weight of the span to lower it back onto the road.
(https://i.imgur.com/a4mzEdI.jpg)
For those unfamiliar with a lift-span bridge operation.
(https://i.imgur.com/PnBroES.gif)
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Layout drawing of the console's control panel.
(https://i.imgur.com/TWCIdXI.jpg)
Pulling the console apart.
(https://i.imgur.com/Pb3bSQJ.jpg)
Reverse engineering the switches used in the console.
(https://i.imgur.com/IpfzugW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nAkV3lG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FgoljiV.jpg)
All this was needed to be done so I can start designing the electronics, and wiring, around what is available from the console.
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This will certainly be a task Peter.. :o.
Traffic Light Controllers - we can see the tracking marks on the copper L & double L shaped contact legs in those large boxed enclosure rotary switch contacts which appear to be spring loaded carbon brush contacts?....[this is certainly past decade technology, although if maintained correctly would probably last for another set of decades]
Will they be suitable for the assumed lower voltage supply? [12V DC?]
Derek
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This will certainly be a task Peter.. :o ..
It may appear that way, but as you know, we take it in small steps.
Besides, nothing is impossible. It only appears that way until we understand how it could be possible.
...Will they be suitable for the assumed lower voltage supply? [12V DC?]...
I am sure it will last longer than the model will operate. Heavy duty contacts etc., handles low power easier than frail mechanisms handling high power.
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The museum workshop is too small to include this display, so I am building it at home. Since I have no garage, the lounge-dining room will have to do.
After the timber arrived, I marked it all out, cut and assembled the display table and its control box. When the diorama is basically finished, both the table and control box will be assembled at the museum (otherwise they won't get through the door).
(https://i.imgur.com/xy70pBE.jpg)
The line across the table is the 3 mm gap (slot) to guide the boat under the bridge.
(https://i.imgur.com/qfqDpjr.jpg)
The control box has two doors for accessing the cables, motors and various electronics.
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The first thing I build when doing an electronic project is the Power Supply Unit (PSU). All other circuits can be designed, powered and tested from the PSU. This unit will have the following voltages; 24, 12, and 5, capable of handling 2 amperes each. I have included a spare voltage circuit in case I might need it. That is, if the 12 volt motors draw too much current, I'll have to add another 12 volt 2 ampere source.
(https://i.imgur.com/m9EztYm.jpg)
Used heatsinks from old computer PSUs.
(https://i.imgur.com/B38bYkJ.jpg)
Testing to PSU outputs.
(https://i.imgur.com/XF2ZKic.jpg)
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well, that's me totally lost %% {:-{
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well, that's me totally lost %% {:-{
Sorry about that BFSMP. Hope you will still look in now and again. ok2
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Going back to the table, I marked out where the pier and footing centres will be. Drilled holes for installing 3 mm bamboo skewers for doweling.
Cut and shaped the footings from scarp timber. Drilled their centres and glued them over the dowels and onto the table.
(https://i.imgur.com/tmhiqS0.jpg)
Used wood putty around the footings to eliminate and shadow line. Did not want the footings to appear as if floating on the water.
Added piers and their crossbeams. Each set has its own height so to make the bridge curve/arch over the river.
(https://i.imgur.com/a6wkewy.jpg)
Then added the girders. The centre photos show where Bridge Street will go under the bridge.
(https://i.imgur.com/ch4ypGX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5nPh0Kc.png)
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Sorry about that BFSMP. Hope you will still look in now and again. ok2
I'll certainly watch the build Tinny, as I love watching build techniques and relate to them having built dolls houses in the past............just not electrickery I'm afraid, lol.
Jim.
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What a project Peter, I look forward to further updates. I'm in the Ballina RSL Club Marine Modellers and have visited the Maritime Museum on many occasions, as well as having crossed the Wardell bridge too many times to count.
Lovely photo of the bridge too by the way :-))
Peter.
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For a good few years I knew a guy in AUS through car forums and he was staggered at what we could modify with our cars compared to the law in AUS. I feel a little the tides may have turned -I am truly impressed with your panel electrical work but as we build electrical control systems at work here and I query whether this would pass the minimal standards we have to adhere to just to comply with basic standards and good practice. I truly admire your work but seeing as the general pubic / proletarians may come in contact with it may I ask what standards are required / electrical testing and certification is produced before anybody can touch it? Maybe this is not required in AUS so excuse my ignorance, I am just interested.
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What a project Peter, I look forward to further updates. I'm in the Ballina RSL Club Marine Modellers and have visited the Maritime Museum on many occasions, as well as having crossed the Wardell bridge too many times to count.
Lovely photo of the bridge too by the way :-))
Peter.
Hello Peter, glad to know that you are nearby. I did not know about the B(RSL)CMM. Please message me about it.
Thanks for watching thread.
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For a good few years I knew a guy in AUS through car forums and he was staggered at what we could modify with our cars compared to the law in AUS. I feel a little the tides may have turned -I am truly impressed with your panel electrical work but as we build electrical control systems at work here and I query whether this would pass the minimal standards we have to adhere to just to comply with basic standards and good practice. I truly admire your work but seeing as the general pubic / proletarians may come in contact with it may I ask what standards are required / electrical testing and certification is produced before anybody can touch it? Maybe this is not required in AUS so excuse my ignorance, I am just interested.
Since it is like any electronics repair/modification, the qualified technician (myself) is covered. The museum will have a council electrical engineer test for insulation, installment standards etc. (The local council owns the museum building). My task is to make sure it will pass the first test. The main ones are earthing continuity, access to lethal currents, insulation resistance, and line leakage tests. I already have the test and measuring equipment to pre-check these.
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Cool and please don't get me wrong (Peter), when I see powered boards, a transformer etc and contained in ply boxes etc. it's natural to get nervous. No assertion that you don't know what you're doing but it is an open forum and I know most folk over here won't understand the implications of what is required for electrical safety compared to what is probably OK (or the likes of PAT testing etc). Different countries, different rules I guess.
Cheers,
Rich
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Gave the bridge and water area a few coats of acrylic undercoat. The holes you see, where span fits, are for wires used as contact points. There are eight. These provide power and data to and from the span.
(https://i.imgur.com/6JjwX6M.jpg)
There are several fender piers around the span section. The outer fender groups have navigational (red and green) lights from there center piers. These have been drilled out to accommodate the wiring and 3 mm LED.
(https://i.imgur.com/EbD4gFL.jpg)
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From Masonite I built the road base, curbing, and footpath onto the span.
[/size](https://i.imgur.com/cp6Rt6Z.jpg)
[/size]Chiselled out trenches for inlaying wires for the navigational lights, and contacts, located under the span.
[/size](https://i.imgur.com/QdeyJy2.jpg)
[/size]Drew up a template for making the span framework from 6 mm square Tasmanain Oak. Wires will be routed along the vertical beams of the frame (they will go to the span hut). Doweled the framework to the span.
[/size](https://i.imgur.com/dY4D7so.jpg)
[/size]During this time I got the idea for making the cable anchoring points to the span frame. I soldered half a fishing swivel to the 3 mm bolt heads. The swivel will relieve any twisting of the cables.
[/size](https://i.imgur.com/qKNRQi7.jpg)
[/size](https://i.imgur.com/kOfyNt8.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/Pr6VBMf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZRV2fyJ.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/5CLl6YU.jpg)
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Fear not, people are reading this thread with interest, we’re just letting you get on with it!
Keep up the good work! :-))
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You just keep posting those pictures and we will keep looking at them.....I am not qualified to comment at this stage....
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Hi that's a great idea soldering half a swivel to a bolthead, I shall do that next time, thanks.
regards Roy
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Thank you roycv for your response. :-))
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(https://i.imgur.com/cp6Rt6Z.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Q1BQHUh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9ekK74y.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qfufvki.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5wRtZYX.jpg)
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Fantastic build. I love how you did the research, the planning, building, and incorporating electronics into your model. That is putting yourself into a build!
Not to intrude on your build but you may want to check out this motion system for you boat:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rpjf33h6EE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_pjf33h6EE)
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Fantastic build. I love how you did the research, the planning, building, and incorporating electronics into your model. That is putting yourself into a build!
Not to intrude on your build but you may want to check out this motion system for you boat:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rpjf33h6EE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_pjf33h6EE)
Thank you xrad for your response and suggestion for the boat motion system.
Such a system has come to my notice after I had already planned and started to incorporate the pulley system. Otherwise I would have seriously considered it.
Other ideas have been discovered since I started. It is part of research to find things that outdate what one is currently doing. However, they may be included in future projects.
I appreciate the suggestion. :-))
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Since xrad has shown interest and responded to this project, I will carry on.
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The bridge span has both longitudinal and lateral bumper rollers to keep the span from getting hooked up somewhere in its travel.
(https://i.imgur.com/cxEbilY.jpg)
Made my own version by using microswitch actuator arms, which can be bought separately.
(https://i.imgur.com/tTpdzqg.jpg)
Added vessel traffic control lights to span hut balcony railings. Fed its wires into the hut area.
(https://i.imgur.com/eqUTPHp.jpg)
There are boxed-in areas on the balconies. Boxes (A) and (B), on actual bridge, contain the drive gearing and winch drum system for raising and lowering the span. The winch motor is in the centre of the hut. It has a differential and two axles (like in a car) which are attached to the the winches (A) and (B). Other bowes contain a back-up generator, and maintainance equipment.
(https://i.imgur.com/z80z2tZ.jpg)
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I'm pleased to see more photos of your progress, I am fascinated by your work and attention to detail.
Peter.
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I'm pleased to see more photos of your progress, I am fascinated by your work and attention to detail.
Peter.
Thank you Peter for your response, and kind words.
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The hut is made from 3 mm MDF board, 2 mm clear Perspex, and white artist card.
(https://i.imgur.com/oRjN655.jpg)
Completed the gangway railings. Used flyscreen for mesh.
Started painting the span.
(https://i.imgur.com/6M2f8NC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KmkdTWe.jpg)
Found a thick washer that fits perfectly over the LEDs, now they look more like beacons.
Added railings to the road edges and footpath.
(https://i.imgur.com/NyDd7gx.jpg)
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I'm looking forward to see a video of this working Tinny!
Don't worry that nobody is viewing your work, as a look at the unread or replied post lists will show your thread is well attended. Sometimes a member is so on top of a project that there is little to say apart from compliments, but people will lbe popping in to see what you have done.
Keep up the good work :-))
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Yup, there's plenty of us quietly watching the master at work! :-))
It's really looking good now, keep it up!
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Thank you ballastanksian and McGherkin for your responses.
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Drew up a template and started to build the towers.
(https://i.imgur.com/ymtkpf9.jpg)
This is how I insert 3 mm bamboo skewer wood as dowels.
(https://i.imgur.com/QwKYNd4.jpg)
I was surprised that it took over 11 metres of 6 mm square Tasmanian Oak to build these two.
(https://i.imgur.com/1ZnQQA2.jpg)
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Have been watching this from the beginning, really cool, some more pics and updates please O0
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Agreed :-))