Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Lifeboats => Topic started by: Umi_Ryuzuki on February 16, 2018, 07:57:43 am
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I started this a while back, and have been pecking away at it.
Probably the first kit I have built in 17 years. But it was on sale, free shipping, and I accidentally purchase one. %)
It's a great kit, blow molded one piece hull and deck and Pilot house roof, and CNC pilot house walls and railings, a resin cast mast.
When I opened the box everything was great, even a set a plans,... but no instructions.
Ah well, I wasn't intending to follow any plans or instructions in the first place, but it would have been nice to
know where they had intended people to to start construction.
So the first thing I decided to do was sand away the top hatch, and open up two windows on either side of the roof.
I cemented a styrene patch to the interior indentation to make sure I didn't sand through the material and open up a new hole.
The bow was the next modification. The Pilot boat has a raised wave break, and the CG45 has a flush deck.
The hull is pretty thick, but a few strikes with a heavy duty Olfa snap blade, and the wave break parted from the deck.
The hull is ABS, or something, it weld pretty nicely with styrene. So I pushed an oversized patch into place from the inside, and
chemically welded that into place. Once that had cured, I placed a filler patch into the cut to flush out the deck. Then filled and
sanded that till the deck faired out smooth.
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After getting the hull back in shape there were also two hatches I needed to add, so I commissioned
Alex, at Barracuda Boats USA to CAD me up some hatches. While he was doing that, I started assembling the pilot house.
The parts are all CNC cut, so it was simply cutting the tabs, and a bit of folding to assemble the parts.
I used a 123 block to help square things up. Things were going so well, I didn't notice that the forward part of
the CG45 had some extra bevel cuts to the forward corners, and a slightly different panel assembly.
I decided to push forward as is rather than cut it apart and get full accuracy.
I did however rebuild the area at the back around the door. The CG45 has a bit more head room back there, so I
raised the sidewalls around the door, and cut the back of the roof piece to create a taller opening.
I cut the window frames clear of their sheet, and sanded each of the outer faces with 350 grit sandpaper.
I then applied dots of Extra thick CA cement to make up the rivets. Placing a couple of drops of kicker on the face of
the frames, and wiping it across the surface and away prevents the cement from spreading out, and keeps the round rivet head tall.
The CNC parts fit together nicely. :-)
.
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I then set to reworking the back of the pilot house.
The door and air intakes are just a bit different, so I set to making things right.
I built up a vent, and molded and cast up a pair. Then made up a left hinged door to match the photo.
Of course someone saw the door, and wanted a pair... so I made a pair. So as not to make it too
awkward, I matched the window base line to either side of the door. O0
I also added the tank and fresh air vents to the either side.
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The hatches came in, so I got those molded and cast and then added them to
the bow and center of the engine hatch at the back. I also created the lazerette for the stern of the boat.
The core of the lazzerette was designed to be screwed down to the deck and if necessary tow off of the bitt.
I also created a new base for the mast, I designed it to hold a servo for powering the radar.
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Hello Aimée
Very nice job, I will follow this topic with attention
I also "accidentally" bought one {-) My project is to built it as yellow dutch pilot boat.
Xtian
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Hello if your looking for graupner instructions they can be found on a pdf file on the internet I got the Bernhard Gruben before Christmas and it came without instructions which after spending £563 pounds I thought was pretty rubbish also they were not for the mark II that is now being sold but you may be lucky with the jet boat just try a google search as I did hope this helps Bill....
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Very nice, will be following your build.
Charlie
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Dito O0
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Nice to see some more worldwide builds, I love seeing all the RNLI builds but its nice to have some variety! :)
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Thank you to everyone, and sorry if this gets stalled, or has a few hiccups as I get time to work on this.
The railings are a nice sheet of CNC cut styrene.
However, as they are cut from flat stock the railings are, well, flat, and for a Pilot boat.
So I set about building up railings, for the Coast Guard version
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The railings on the bow, and the hatch that was added.
:-)
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Trying to fit the drives, I didn't quite open up the jet holes wide enough.
Pressing the drive into one of the holes, I caused a hairline crack t the base of the transom.
I welded the crack with some plastic weld, and then added some square bits of styrene inside to reinforce the bottom corner.
Then back filled it a bit with epoxy. The blow molding is a bit thin all the way across that area.
I added a reinforcing piece to the forward railings, and the small vent tube.
In reality, I was trying to avoid masking and painting the non-skid on the deck. %)
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Looking good Umi :-)) :-))
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Some more bits done... to avoid masking and painting the deck. %)
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Great job i think your detail work is spot on :-))
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The hatches and brass work is excellent Umi! I like the new bits you are doing as well such as the mast mounting (I would call it a Tabernacle, but it isn't that shape!)
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Thanks, for the compliments.
So after a tortuous amount of delay, and thought on masking, I dug out a roll of airbrush frisket.
It is a light tack vinyl sheet with a frosted finish. I cut a bit to fit the bow, and tacked it onto the deck.
I then drew out the non-skid pattern, and cut and picked out the areas where it was to be painted.
I had done some experiments with paint and sand, and finally sleuthed out Rustoleum Fine Textured spray paint for the finish.
Once I had sprayed down and let dry a bit of the original metallic base coat, I laid in two and a bit coats of the black textured paint.
... worst thing, ... that moment when you remove the masking and find you forgot to pick one of the paint areas. {:-{
I let everything cure up, and then came back and remasked for just one non-skid plate, and finished up the bow.
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i have used that Rustoleum textured on 3 of my models Umi, and as you say it is brilliant stuff. you just have to remember NOT to touch it for a good few hours of curing...........your model looks superb and superb masking as well.
could i ask you what "airbrush frisket" is.............a masking tape perhaps.
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I use it now and then, and forget I have it often... %)
It's actually called Frisket Film.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/frisket-film/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Afrisket%20film
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The back hatch, masked and painted.
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I use it now and then, and forget I have it often... %)
It's actually called Frisket Film.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/frisket-film/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Afrisket%20film (https://www.amazon.co.uk/frisket-film/s?ie=UTF8&page=1&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Afrisket%20film)
:-))
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Mask mask mask, draw draw draw, cut cut cut, pick pick pick, overmask and paint paint.
...(https://s13.postimg.org/r54hysfyv/disappointed-but-relieved-face_1f625.png)
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Wow! Amazing. All worth the effort.
Hama
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Thank you.
The roof, sort of the final bit of non skid. O0
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And that last little bit on the front of the pilot house.
Now I can get back to railings. O0
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That is absolutely stunning Umi, I hope you don't mind, but I will be using your technique on my model.
I'm converting mine to a Royal Marine patrol boat, based at Faslane Naval Base in Scotland.
I've removed the bow section as you have and also infilled the side pieces, I've built a new roof section with flybridge and it will have a heavily modified mast system.
(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/22/IMG_2135.jpg)(http://modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2018/03/22/IMG_21349bbab464b36dc877.jpg)
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Looks great Brian, :-))
I wish I had noticed a few more adjustments that I could have made before I got my pilot house assembled.
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Got a good start on the stern safety rails.
I made them our of 2.4mm, as the railings across the back look a bit heavier.
:-)
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beautiful work Umi.........but I have worries for this model..............you not going to sling this in the water like you do with your springer, I hope {-) {-)
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Hi Neil,
The springer was my slinger, I designed all the mountings for batteries and hardware with that in mind.
So I am less likely to continue the long toss for launching with this boat, and launch this like most of the rest of my fleet. %)
Got the intermediate railings and the safety rings soldered in place. Also added a mounting flange for the line reel to the
stanchion starboard of the lazerette. I think I need to consider the deck fittings before I permanently mount the railings.
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The arrangement for diverting the jet astern looks novel! I like the look of the nonslip effect Umi, I could see the texture paint being useful for models of long time moored ships like coaling hulks etc suitably painted of course!
Regarding Frisket, I recall it being around for years before the model industry invented the mask sets for wheels and markings etc. I think it was the original masking system beyond normal tape and strip. Good to see it still in production. If you are handy with a scalpel, I reckon it would be good value.
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Added a splash of color, and it really brings things together.
Also made up a new bitt for the deck, it was a choice between the kit pieces being
too small, a stock bit being too big, or creating one that was accurate and properly sized.
I went with building up the right bitt from scratch. Still need a few fairleads, then I can move on
to the top of the deck house.
I also want to push forward to some sea trials, so that meant getting the deck house locked down.
I created a tab on the forward section of the deck house that would slide around a post and button.
Then built a couple of magnet mounts for the stern of the deck house, and some mounts for the deck.
It works nicely, and should stay well put.
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CG45 RBm got wet, goes nicely on 7.2v, blew out one of the drive connections.
It was only epoxied together from the factory. Mtroniks Tio-30 ESC makes the motors 'sing', and
couldn't give low speed rpm. Some water in the boat, not sure if it was because the connector
failed and caused the seal to shift, or some other point of entry.
The motor and drive connection are a huge pain to access via the small rear hatch, but
it has been torn down and repaired. An old MC-car30 ESC was installed, and
still makes the motors sing, but will give dead slow rpm with it's song.
Oh, Three servos running steering and separate port and starboard reverse buckets overwhelms the BEC.
A separate receiver battery was dropped in and the servos settled in.
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She looks tremendous Umi :-))
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that looks superb really good!
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Thank you, Still a lot to fittings to place.
ok2
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The weather cleared up for a few days, so I popped out to the pond for lunch.
The U-joint finally held up, there were three repairs. The opposite end came loose, and after a
first go at epoxying it failed, I drilled and set three shear pins into the locking collar and rubber.
The model felt like it was running a bit sluggish, but it could be the new batteries.
It will spin about quickly with one reverse bucket down and in a turn.
However at slow speed, the model slides around, and won't stop turning unless a bit of counter force is applied.
It will need a bit of practice to cozy up to the quay with out bouncing around.
While the model felt slow, it had a good scale speed look to it.
And with the u-joint holding, I have set to painting and setting the safety railings, and will finish setting other fittings.
:-)
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looking fantastic Umi!!
what did you use for the silver base coat?
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Beautiful image Umi......displacing & pushing the water :-))...absolutely life like.................. Derek
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Thank you Derek, good to hear, only because it is tempting to try a higher voltage, but
if it appears fine, maybe I will stick with the 7.2v packs.
looking fantastic Umi!!
what did you use for the silver base coat?
The silver is a Krylon "special purpose metallic", Dull Aluminium (#1403)
:-)
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.
The silver is a Krylon "special purpose metallic", Dull Aluminium (#1403)
:-)
thanks for the info Umi :-))
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You're Welcome.
Got a start on the mast.
:-)
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Added the GPS, search light and camera platforms.
:-)
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Got a start on the mast.
:-)
Hi,
where do you find the drawings?
Kind regards,
Jürgen
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I am working from photos found online, and provided by other modelers, of the real boats.
And I was able to download a PDF manual for the real boats from the US Coast Guard.
:-)
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Umi...the mast appears to be substantial copper tube & brass attachments.....is the total weight mass placement OK for stability?
PS.....yesterday, some of your photographic images were just the X followed by the image Number.......is that your image Hosting Facility going off line?
Derek
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The weight of the motors, jet pumps, servos and batteries is much heavier than that little bit of brass.
The photos are hosted on MBM's server, so I don't know what would cause the hiccup.
Just now considering how to work out the wiring for lights.
:-)
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Sorry Umi. :embarrassed:...I was viewing the mast as a element and not going back to see the proportion...........
[Copper/brass/solder are so much more effective in smaller sizes ...and so strong]
Derek
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Hello
Very nice job Umi, I'm impressed with your double lined rivets around the windows !
Do you know the total weight of your boat during this "sea trial" I have to work around the weight for mine - actually my pilot boat is like that
(https://nsa39.casimages.com/img/2018/05/11/180511073341258504.jpg) (https://www.casimages.com/i/180511073341258504.jpg.html)
Xtian
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Thank you Xtian,
The rivets were extra thick CA. Sanding the frames and then wiping them
with some accelerant before applying the CA worked well.
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Great work moving the opening back, and cutting into the transom, it looks great.
The total current weight ofmy build is 2,2kg.The battery is 354 grams, but a Lipo will
take about 260grams out of that.(2s2000mah - 97grams)I haven't tried it with a Lipo yet.
.
:-)
.
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thanks Umi - I will try to stay below two kilo - tomorrow I will put everything in the hull and check.
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Let me know if you need more photos of the Columbia River Pilot boats, I know thatKvichak also built the three for the Netherlands.
:-)
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Thank you Umi, the pics you gave me were helpful. My pilot boat is mostly inspired as in fact it's impossible to be "exact" with this hull
On the Camarc site there is a lot of info, data and General Arrangement for many of the pilot boats, SAR and patrol boats - as all these boats : 45" USCG, Colombia pilot, MOD patrol boat and many more are in fact designed by the UK Camarc
http://www.camarc.com/pilot-boats/4581875717 drawings remain correct even in enlargements
So, my pilot boat will be like a "mixture" then I chose she would be French with black hull and the name of the boat of my great grandfather who was harbor pilot here at Brest
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A bit more work on the mast, and a start on the wiring.
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Very nice! :-)) I like the way the mast folds.
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Nice work on the mast - looks good!
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Wow! Looks like the real thing :-))
Hama
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Thank you Gentleman, :-)
I took a day to work up a box. A bit heavier than I thought it would be, but
it will be good protection from "me". %)
Now back to considerations on lighting.
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I love the boat, and the box is good as well. Is the raised section to the left of the box base a compartment for model specific 'gubbins' or just asthetic?
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I built up a box at that end for the batteries.
ok2
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Lighting test.
(no fires) %)
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Some of the deck fittings I've created up to now, and two new pieces for the stern of the boat.
:-)
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It just gets better and better Umi :-))
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Thanks,
Need one more deck fitting, and the gun mount on the bow, the side drop down walks, and to jiggle the wiring a bit up top.
:-)
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Something to note here, I ran the model on a 2 cell 2000mah Lipo, and it really moves well.
Much better than on the Nimh. The difference, about 224 grams of weight. ok2
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So beautiful model %%
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Umi, The ESC that I linked to you over on RCG is silent as can be. i finally had the chance to try it, and I like it. i'm feeding it 12v in a 1/48 Corvette and I can soft start the prop to a count tick over. it handles 12v without an issue.Only noise heard is the fan on the motor.
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Can it be programmed for forward only?
That has actually been an issue, low speed, fwd only on this model. %)
NIMH battery:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBh-HoepeHo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gBh-HoepeHo).
Lipo Battery:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCO_nVmidDQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCO_nVmidDQ)
.
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Umi,
where did you get your USCG decals?
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I printed them, the large bars on the bow on white Decal paper, inkjet, and
the black onto some laserjet clear paper I keep in stock.
The bars, I had to copy the branding, and then reverse the bars for the other side of
the boat, and then paste the branding back into place. I also darkened it a bit before printing to decal paper.
Worked better than I anticipated.
:-))
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The particular ESC that I am using is not programmable, nor is it forward only. That said, there may be such an animal available from them. the easiest solution is to just keep the beast far enough "off shore" that the whine is not audible.
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Hi Umi,
It's good to see the RB-M on the water. They're such purposeful boats that they deserve the great build you've accomplished.I tried when they first came out but it wasn't to be {:-{
I've attached a couple of work in progress from 2009 before she went to the breakers!
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Hi Tony,
Sorry to hear that you weren't able to finish your build.I was really impressed with your work when you started your CG45 RBM.
The best part here, is you show that there are a set of skegs on the stern to improve handling.
I have been saying that it needs a bit of "grip" on the stern, and here are your photos, and they
lead me to find that there are indeed four skegs on the bottom to do exactly what I think this model needed.
:-))
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Thanks Umi, but I was lucky at the time because there was loads of data, except plans, on the USCG site. Plenty of in-build photos and even a film of the self-righting trial so the hull details were available.My biggest let-down was building repro KaMeWa water jets without the resources of Rolls Royce! I've attached a couple of pics of the electro-formed nozzles etc. The steering control, via a ball-and-socket is as the KaMeWa spec! Rather elegant.
I've also attached a couple of photos of the best fun boat the USCG have. I.e. the Fast Response one. Easy to build with ply and litho plate and at 1:12 and about 4lbs goes rather well with a pair of outboards. I sold mine to chap in the US because it was very much a one-off at the time in 2006!
Kind Regards
Tony
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Nice build up of the smaller Response boat, we have a couple of those here on the river.
However building one up is problematic given the limited outboard options.
The Graupner kit made the CG45, almost easy. %)
The new skegs.
I oversized them a bit for non scale water. :-)
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I'm glad you said "almost easy" Umi. Not easy to get it looking as 'right' as you have :-))
The FRB motors were only standard 540 outboards from, I think, Kyosho so the Graupner ones would fit the bill easily now. The guy who bought it decided to upgrade it and so it was last seen in flames in he middle of the lake - Happy days %)
[/size][size=78%] [/size]
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and so it was last seen in flames in he middle of the lake
<:(
So there are still a few things to work on... Today, Boat hooks.
%)
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But seriously, is this the model or the real thing!! :o
Hama
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But seriously, is this the model or the real thing!! :o
Hama
:-))
It's the model.... O0
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Hi Umi,
Have a look at RCGroups forum. Hansen Dam Lake "Irregulars" Page 128 for the FRB. I almost feel like building another %%
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The direct link
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?501819-Hansen-Dam-Lake-Irregulars-Report/page128 (https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?501819-Hansen-Dam-Lake-Irregulars-Report/page128)
Umi I'm surprised with your need of more grip and adding skegs - from my side after last summer trial with the one of a friend and looking to your pictures when sailing I'm thinking about small flaps to help the boat to stay horizontal instead of nose-up
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Hi Xtian,
How is Phil?I presume his RB-M was a bit more successful than mine?
The real RB-M had the anti-skid fins.
Kind Regards
Tony
PS The Hansen Dam Lake boat is the FRB I built and not the RB-M that Phil built and I scrapped!
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Yes there is small skegs but also the flaps -
(https://nsa39.casimages.com/img/2018/06/03/180603085108319779.jpg) (https://www.casimages.com/i/180603085108319779.jpg.html)
Then when I made "sea-trial" (without skegs and flaps) I experienced no problem with stern drift - on the other hand, the boat was a little bit "nose up" instead of horizontal like this one (very nice canadian livery)
(https://nsa39.casimages.com/img/2018/06/03/180603085202743155.jpg) (https://www.casimages.com/i/180603085202743155.jpg.html)
(https://nsa39.casimages.com/img/2018/06/03/180603085810456197.jpg) (https://www.casimages.com/i/180603085810456197.jpg.html)
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Very nice Tony
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10033995&postcount=1927 (https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10033995&postcount=1927)
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10035010&postcount=1936 (https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=10035010&postcount=1936)
Oh no...
(https://static.rcgroups.net/forums/attachments/2/0/9/8/7/a1936557-223-Hansen%206-26-08%20106.jpg)
.
8)
I don't think I want to add trim plates.I'll stick to moving the battery around.
The nice thing about building the Canadian version, is the deck is grey, no anti skid. %)
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Pushing the punch list of things to do, Got the anchor set into place, and
soldered up the gun mount for the bow. Still have a top plate to create and place on the mount.
:-)
I wanted to silver solder the base washers, but I knew the wood might give me an issue.
Of course it flamed up, and off gassed and didn't solder a thing, so I cleaned it up, and just
used electrical solder down there.
.
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Finished up the gun mount with a styrene top plate.
It was just easier to mill the slots than a brass washer.
Added a convertible bow fairlead also. I was working toward putting a nut into
one side of the fairfairlead, then thought, "How often am I going to open this up, and actually use it?" %)
Derp... so I just soldered a T-handle to the screw, and threaded it into the material(renshape).
.
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Keith Schermerhorn caught a photo of my CG45 cruising through the maneuvering course up North in Seattle.
:-))
I had to run the course with the buckets about 40 percent down, to keep the
speed slow enough to make it through the obstacles and gates. %)
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Well done! She looks fantastic :-))
Hama
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Looks absolutely real. Brilliant modelling Skills Umi
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It's a really superb build-up Umi.
I was wondering whether the Tamiya Rally Crew at 1:24........... %)
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Here's a befuddlment, Crabbing, or side stepping the model is proving to be difficult.
%)
I am set up with single, or ganged steering, single throttle, and separate reverse bucket control.But thrust from the reverse buckets is sort of backwards compared to rudder and propeller.
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I'd have thought with the type of reversing buckets on the RBM that the thrust is split to both sides and not just as shown on the right hand sketch? You'd have to reduce the power to the port drive. since only a proportion of the thrust from the starboard drive would be backwards.
Just an idea :embarrassed:
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Hello
Side stepping is quite easy with the Graupner Multijet but it need 4 channels - 2 per waterjet : direction + bucket
It's the option on my pilotboat - I built a 3D support for the 4 servos and above it's like a shelf for the 2 esc + reception
(https://nsa39.casimages.com/img/2018/07/22/180722051428102704.jpg) (https://www.casimages.com/i/180722051428102704.jpg.html)
(https://nsa39.casimages.com/img/2018/07/22/180722051426805177.jpg) (https://www.casimages.com/i/180722051426805177.jpg.html)
and side-stepping in the pond
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOuJwzDZCGA&feature=youtu.be
Xtian
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Excellent crabbing in the video.
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Nicely built Xtian, and the video makes it look too easy.
I am having a hard time with the single rudder control, so I also posted on RCgroups.
Capt. Troy came back with some instructions...
The simplest way to crab these jet boats is:
1) Set your throttle to the minimum you need to move the boat and don't touch it again.
2) Dump the bucket (full astern) on the side you want to crab towards, and don't touch it again.
3) Set the bucket on the opposite side of your crab direction to half ahead and use this bucket to control your fore and aft
motion relative towards whatever you're walking towards, i.e., if you want to crab towards a ship's gangway and you see that
the boat is creeping ahead, then pull the bucket back a touch until the headway stops and vice versa.
4) Keep your other free hand on the helm and use this to control the angle of your walk, so if you're crabbing towards a dock
and you want to land flat, but the bow is going to touch down first, use the helm to steer the bow out just as if were driving
with headway.
I just had my buddy bring our new boat under the office window and I took this quick video for you;
And posted a video... %)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyvuDbu3kJ8&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyvuDbu3kJ8&feature=youtu.be)
...
..
.
So I'll have to have another go at this as built. O0
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Thanks Aimée for the video "scale 1" :-))
In fact it's not complicated and quite the same as aboard an ASD tug
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The Kamewa buckets on the real boats have an advantage because they are closed on the lower side so act rather like two tubes rather than open buckets. Better control because less wasted downwards.
Tony
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I don't think the downward thust is an issue with the open bucket on the graupner, but
when the buckets are down, they do tend to aerate the drive intake when in reverse.
I have wondered if closing them up across the ends or designing new buckets would reduce the aeration.
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If you go back to post 74, there's a pic of the buckets I made which are based on the prototype ones from USCG. You'll see that they had an internal duct which was correct at the time. I know they've been modified by KaMeWa since so they look/perform even more like pipes so if you google KaMeWa 375S which is the standard spec, you should have a better idea.
It's one of those things that could be worth an experiment ;)
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Yea!! I had the boat crabbing last night. :-))
It was done as suggested above, but being that it was dark, I don't have any video.
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Pushing the punch list of things to do, Got the anchor set into place, and
soldered up the gun mount for the bow. Still have a top plate to create and place on the mount.
:-)
I wanted to silver solder the base washers, but I knew the wood might give me an issue.
Of course it flamed up, and off gassed and didn't solder a thing, so I cleaned it up, and just
used electrical solder down there.
.
To reduce issues with burning wood, get yourself a fire brick or foundry brick (I think that's one name for them %% ) to do your soldering on when using gas as then you will have your heat rebound and help keep the piece hot while soldering. You are doing really nice work, and love the gun mount Umi :-))
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To reduce issues with burning wood, get yourself a fire brick or foundry brick (I think that's one name for them %% ) to do your soldering on when using gas as then you will have your heat rebound and help keep the piece hot while soldering. You are doing really nice work, and love the gun mount Umi :-))
I have a heat proof tile, but I didn't want to drill holes in it to jig the uprights. %)
I doubt there will be alot of pressure on the gun mount, so silver solder is a bit of overkill.
:-)
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Crabbing the boat as instructed... :-)) :-)) 8)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OrZ0zyuNCYs
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Hi UMI,
Looking great.
Destroyer42
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Umi, you make that look easy, just like my past father in law with his Grand Banks 42. Well done!Jonathan