Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Other Hobbies and Interests => Topic started by: xrad on March 09, 2018, 10:00:01 pm
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Still snowing here. Got bored with Land Rover. Built a Toyota 4 dr on a 335mm wheelbase rc4wd frame. Had to make some new links w/stainless 4-40 threaded rod and 3/16 stainless K+S tube. Took a few hours to get the geometry correct. 3" lift more than enough. Gonna make this a real rust bucket build....
Of course, the body is made for another frame so a bit of modification is needed. I had to design and print two new wheel wells for the rear bed to clear the shock towers. Could have moved the shock towers, but this was pretty easy. Some other minor body mods as well. Will braze up a steel rear bumper too...
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Looks a bit like the Tamiya Toyota Hilux 58028 body... :-))
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yep, chinese copy of tamiya (but a VERY well made/detailed thick hard plastic):
https://store.rc4wd.com/Mojave-II-Four-Door-Complete-Body-Set_p_5185.html (https://store.rc4wd.com/Mojave-II-Four-Door-Complete-Body-Set_p_5185.html)
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rust effect first layers...and fog lights
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a few layers later........rusty but trusty! It looks a bit green overall, but that is the lighting and camera..mostly grey/rust.
Coatings so far:
1) enamel grey primer
2) acrylic rust
3) iron oxide
4) blue copper/sal ammoniac
5) medium chipping formula
6) blue door
7) green rear panel
8 ) other panels grey
9) sepia wash
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Blimey! You want a couple of gallons of T-cut on that! :-)
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I'm guessing that proper care and some good tar based rust preventer in the wheel wells, and the owner would have avoided this outcome..... :-))
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Bought a CChand steal rear toyota bumper but seemed too fat to be scale. So I trimmed off the top bar and brazed a 3/16 steel rod in place, and wrapped the ends a bit so less chance for snagging. Mounted roll bar as well...
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DECALS!! For free! Using plain paper and krylon clear, I was able to make some cool decals for the yota. Took a few tries and a bit of experimentation.
1) size some JPG image files and print (in reverse) on inkjet printer in high res on plain paper
2) Trim to correct size
3) put a base coat on model. Clear is best, but I used dull-coat.
4) spray a light but covering coat of krylon clear on inked side of your image
5) lay image in correct location before the spray dries, tacky is best (really only get to do this once, can't move the image again). Krylon will dissolve inkjet ink so not too much spray...
6) the clear spray will dry as you gently but firmly press image down. Make sure it is all the way pressed down, corners and edges too. Use wax paper to keep fingers from sticking or leaving fingerprints (see my test image) Heat with hair dryer on low or medium, alternating between pressing down and heating until dry.
7) once dry and cool, soak with water for a few minutes , and then gently rub off dissolving paper.
Tips:
White background is best for images that also look good on white paper!
A clean smooth background makes for best image transfer, so a coat of krylon clear dried before applying decal would be best.
Don't rub too hard, you will remove parts of decal (although on my white test plastic piece, I rubbed really hard and it does not come off)
Since I was going for abused old look, I was happy with the sub-optimal ink transfer on the blue door...
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Changed my mind, decided to do white background on the dino oil sign. Looks better. Finished the light housings, steel rock sliders, and plaid interior. Polished the hood details.
Going for the 'ugliest truck' look.... almost there....
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wow your making a great job that truck :-)) it looks like you have just got it from a scrap yard
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Thx Chip! This build was lots of fun. Almost ready to run...
RC horn programmed for the D100, just need to connect to RC switch off the Rx
vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvcLFi2GX-U
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Wired up, just waiting on a front driveshaft, then out to the dirt
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Cracking! :-)) --------------------- but how do you manage in such a small workshop? :o , cheers, Tony.
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Thx Tony, appreciate the comment. Wait till you see the next bit for this rust bucket!
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Well, I thought that the yota needed something special since it is such a rusty beater. Soooo... what to do. How about a dirty smokey exhaust! Finally got the machining and wiring done for smoke generator. Fan is proportional to motor speed. Metal container for the heating element and it holds 10-15ml fluid (party fogger fluid works great). Added a diode to the neg side as the brushless 5v fan only likes to run one direction and will get hot w/reverse polarity. Designed a special plate inside the smoke box to hold the heating element and to keep fluid from sloshing around. Just add fluid through brass angle when needed.
Also designed and printed an old school welder for the back of the toyota. Has a coat of plastic filler on it, should be painted up in a few days... Will look really good in the bed when done.
check out the smoke generator vids. One a bit blurry, but you get the idea....works like a champ.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1XEIDR5n4c (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-1XEIDR5n4c)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpjS5LuAAq8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IpjS5LuAAq8)