Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Painting, Finishing and Care. => Topic started by: Philsy on September 13, 2007, 01:34:51 pm
-
Can someone suggest a paint that resembles traditional copper-based antifouling, please?
Phil
-
Can someone suggest a paint that resembles traditional copper-based antifouling, please?
Phil
Standard red oxide does the job for me.
-
Go adding black gloss to red undercoat until the desired sheen and shade are achieved.
The old International copper-base antifoulings were a plum colour prior to launch, after a while in the water the areas underwater would darken and the waterline areas would develop a greenish tinge.
Red oxide primer does work quite well, it is a little too matt and a litttle too bright though for my liking.
-
Thanks for the replies. This is for a working model, so I guess I would need a sealer over the primer?
-
With Halford's red oxide primer it doesn't seem to need a sealer but putting a matt or semi matt varnish over the top will address cdsc123's point and provide a bit of extra protection as well.
-
Two of my models have got nothing more than Halfords Red Primer on the bottom of the hull and they both are in perfect condition. I wouldn't bother putting anything else over it unless, as Colin says, you feel the need for a bit of extra protection.
-
Thanks, I'll give it a try.
Phil
-
Right then Colin Bishop and Bunkerbridge point of info on PRIMER If it is a plastic hull then there is no problem BUT if it is a wooden hull then it needs sealing this is due to the fact that ALL primers are POROUS
Stavros
-
Stavros, I usually use it on a wooden hull that has already been sealed, either with sanding sealer or my favourite gumstrip/shellac so the primer just acts as a colour coat. But, point taken. Thanks.
-
Bets thing to do Colin is to seal it with Matt varnish then Definatly no worries
Stavros
-
Which varnish do you recommend Stavros? I'm thinking Ronseal interior. Wouldn't want to put Plasticote over Halfords.
-
Would personnaly use exterior as I dont think the interior is waterproof
Stavros
-
The problem with Ronseal polyurethane exterior varnish (and most others of the type) is that it contains UV filtering agents and therefore has a distinct yellowish cast which alters the colour of the underlying finish, the interior also affects the underlying colour but much less so unless you apply it over white. The interior variety is supposed to be proof against boiling water, weak acids, chemicals etc. etc., and many modellers swear by it. I think it can be regarded as waterproof for all practical purposes.
The quick drying acrylic stuff gives a more transparent finish but can go cloudy if immersed in water which suggests it is absorbant.
-
I use Ronseal Matcoat.
Does say on the tin not to use in bathrooms or kitchens, but been using it now for over 12 yrs and nothing happened so far.
I usually give 2 thin coats though.
Bob
-
Which varnish do you recommend Stavros? I'm thinking Ronseal interior. Wouldn't want to put Plasticote over Halfords.
thats whats on my Najade :) halfords top paint, plasticote clear acrylic.
-
That's interesting Ghost, how long did you leave the Halfords to cure before applying the Plasticote varnish? I don't think the solvents like each other much.
-
What really tickles me here is why on earth does everyone mix paint systems up,why buy Halfords Acrylic paint then put an Enamel over it, the mind boggles,if you now scratch the boat and want to touch it up you now cant,it's a major repaint
Stavros
-
about a couple of hours.
i did say Plasticote CLEAR ACRYLIC :)
oh she has been touched up, using little tinlets of plasticote silver.
-
...to ensure everything worked well, I did spray a piece of scrap ABS with the desired mix, seemed to work well so that was used on the main hull
-
But you see Ghost you are missing the point why use different makes of paint,Plasticoat gives a very poor finish in comparsion to Halfords laquer,at least with Halfords product if you get a run or the shine is poor you can Tcut the shine back wiht Plasticoat you can't
Stavros
-
The thing that put me off using the Halfords transparent lacquer is that it's intended to be gloss - fine for the car but not for my boats.
-
But Halfords do a semi gloss laquer as well
Stavros
-
if you spray the laquer on and it's too shiny either T Cut it and dont polish it or Rub down with 2000 grit and cut back with Farecla and you will gte a dullish finish
Stavros
-
I've not seen the semigloss - if I find some I'll give it a try. Not keen on rubbing down to dull the finish, too much like hard work and, being me, the result would be an uneven degree of gloss.
-
Hello, This may be a strange question But have you thought about buying some Humbrol clear cote Matt varnish and spraying that on, it will give you exactly the result you are after ? :)
-
Yes, I used to use the Humbrol varnish a lot but if it was a bit old then you got a dreadful orange peel effect. I understand that the latest stuff has been reformulated and uses a different solvent so you are back with the potential compatibility problems that Stavros has quite rightly been banging on about.
-
I varnish my hulls with Johnson's Clear Floor Sealer. This is used by scale aircraft modelers. If you mix in various quantities of Tamiya flat base it will give you a matt finish.
Holmsey
-
See new post on Mixing of paint maunufacterers products
I REST MY CASE ;)
STAVROS
-
Hi, I use the Humbrol clear cote ( in the glass bottles not tin stuff ) all the time over Tamiya Acrylic paints and Hycote acrylic paints and have never had a problem with compatability, You must thin the varnish down with Humbrol thinners though a 2:1 match.
Never heard of it going off as you describe would more likely be that the temp is wrong and too thick maybe. You can always test a sample over the paint you use on a scrap piece to make sure though.
I personally wouldn't varnish anything with Ronseal except my front door as it goes brittle and cracks and turns yellow with age, just my opinion I guess, but would reccomend that the proper stuff for the job is used. Hope this helps :)
-
Seems to be horses for courses, Paul Freshney and others have been using Ronseal for years with no problems. They use the interior variety. Of course, if the model is subjected to extended periods of bright sunshine then you will get some damage. UV light destroys almost everything given time.
-
Yep it certainly destroyed my hair ;D ;D ;D
-
stav it was my FIRST model i built,