Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Lifeboats => Topic started by: Trucker on October 07, 2018, 08:20:37 am
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Hey, Belyno 1968
Following your build of the life boat, great work, but the build thread seems to have dried up, hows things going with it, have you made any more progress, look forward to some more pictures... O0
Trucker
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Hi Trucker
Thanks for your interest in the build.
I am still building although family and work have slowed me down the last couple of weeks. I have almost finished the raised deck although progress has been slow as my brass tube bending and soldering isn't the best. Will post some pictures later today.
Chris
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thats good news fellow boater, hope we are discussing the same boat, i didnt make it clear at all did i {:-{ im watching your Tyne class life boat. mine is coming along but as this is my first build im having to correct a few things as i go.. ;)
Trucker
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Yes it is the Tyne I'm building, like yourself this is my first complete scratch build ( although I have refurbished a billings 1/20 scale 44ft US coast guard cutter and turned it into an RNLI Waveney) so I to have had to remake things I'm not happy with. I will upload latest pictures shortly
Chris
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had to remove the spray rail on my tyne class lifeboat today, reason for that is simply because i didnt like how i put it on and just didnt look right, so, can any of you tyne builders help me out by explaining how you made, attached there spray rail to the hull, and the thickness of the sheet used to make their spray rail
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As ive been stealing ideas from other i thought its about time i showed off my work so far...
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The aft cabin has now had the curved edges made up, ive used thin strips of wood glued in with super glue and some epoxy , BUT, what should i use as filler on the wood so once dry i can shape and finish off.
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Hi Trucker
Looking good :-))
For the survivors cabin I used 1/4 wooden quadrant from wickes and used Halfords filler primer ( a few coats sanded in between filled the grain in well)
I really do like your capstan, can I ask where you got it from, one thing I'm struggling with is good pictures and how to make it ( I haven't got the use of a lathe)
Keep up the good work and keep posting the pictures
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Thanks for the kind words, Beyno, i got my brother to make my capstan on his lathe, ive got to paint the lower half black seems wasteful but thats the way it is,
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ive started to remake the spray rail today, but , looking at all the fine models of the tyne class boat i have a question i would like to put to you guys out there, most of the rails i see are quite flat to the to the hull, but on the actual life boat the rail appears to protrude, HOW, would i make my rail more convincing like the real thing...
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Hi
I think it's just an optical illusion that the rail looks like it's protruding. On the real boat I have seen at The Emergency Services museum in Sheffield the spray rails are triangular and definitely flush to the hull. When I did my Tyne I used triangular styrene profile glued to the hull. It took a lot of heating (with a hair dryer) and bending to get it to look right. Even then I'm not 100% happy with mine (it's a little low on the bow). Hope this helps.
Chris
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Thanks for the tip on the way you tackled the spray rail, using a triangle piece i will certainly look at it...
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ive been busy making some detailed hinges for the tyne aft cabin this week. the make a huge difference to the look but boy did they give me cramp holding them whilst filing and shaping %%
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Can any one help by giving details of what the hook end would look like on the Tyne Class life boat, im either going to make two or try to locate ready to buy off the net...
Thanks
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Hi All
I have decided to remake the foot loops that run around the deck of my Tyne class life boat, currently they are all made of plastic and look a bit shabby, ive knocked up a little jig to play around with for the renewal but im not quite sure which metal rod to use, i have a surplus of aluminum wire used for my bonsai tree which appears to lend its self rather well to the new loops, but, im unsure how well paint will go onto the wire, or, follow the herd and use brass rod, advantages of being straight to begin with. Whats your thought on which to use...
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well, i went with the bonsai wire. looks rather good, i found it easy to bend to the radius required im yet to paint them but im sure there shouldnt be an issue, :-))
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Hi Trucker
I used 1.5mm brass rod for mine again using a jig like yourself. You shouldn't have a problem with painting the aluminium. I always use a primer first though. Are you spray painting or hand painting them? I sprayed mine I think I used Polar Grey spray from Halfords.
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i would like to spray paint as much as possible but the more detail that gets added more i start doubting, im actually in the progress of preparing the hull and deck for its first coat of primer, looking forward to that...
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Hi, all
i have been busy with lifeboat recently, but, still no paint on her, never mind >>:-( done some work on the mast, i believe this is about the fifth attempt, the main problem for me has been getting the radius to match, as most of it is plastic rod i found it quite hard but progress has been made so i wanted to share my work, still lots to do so i will try and put a few more pics up later..
Trucker
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Hi Trucker,
As your in Kent, you might want to pop along the the Historic Lifeboat Collection in Chatham Dockyard, as we’ve just taken possession of the ex Lowestoft Tyne, 47-020, “Spirit of Lowestoft”.
Cheers
Lance
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:-)) Thanks for the info, im up at the model shop in the docks quite a few times, so will have to arrange a longer visit and go and take a look at the lifeboat...
Trucker
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built the VHF aerial today and the tiny locking pin that holds the mast upright, now ive put the whole mast in situ so i can work on the hydraulics.
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Hi, All
Taking advantage of the warm sun shine and moved on a bit with the build, another round of rubbing down and even more filler primer and grey primer to finish the day, ive also tried my luck at scratch building the boat hooks .
TRUCKER
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Hi, Guys
A little bit of work done on my model, as an after thought i have made some tiny discs punched out of .75 plastic card to represent all the bolts securing the hatches down and made a start on the raised platform, also the first couple coats of the white on the hull...
Trucker.
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heres my first attempt at silver soldering, some cleaning up to do then on to the other one.
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heres a few pictures of some progress on my lifeboat model :-))
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That's a beautiful looking paint job Trucker - has it been done with rattle cans or some other means?
Regards,
Ray.
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all rattle cans so far, ok2 quite a few layers and rub down sessions with a bit of filler just to pass the time :D
Trucker
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Lovely paint ruined, opened my man cave today and boy was it hot in side, any way, the paint now has the imprint of the very cloth i laid the hull to protect my work, gutted, so how can i rectify the slight damage.. ive also now smeared the blue onto the white on the transom, how do i clean that...
Trucker
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You say you have plenty of layers of paint, so assuming the paint is now thoroughly dry I suggest you try rubbing down with some fine wet and dry (1200 or 1500) used wet. That should remove the blue smears and might remove the cloth imprint (difficult to say without knowing how deep the imprint is). Take it slowly, and check regularly. Assuming that works, then get some polishing compound to bring the shine back (something like this (https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/tools-equipment-and-supplies/polishing-and-finishing/TOPFINISH2-Black-Nano-Polishing-Compound.html)should do it, but not T-cut!).
Good luck
Greg
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the paint issues have been corrected now so i have pushed on with a bit more detail work, hope you like the pictures..
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thought i would describe to you guys what ive actually done,
the rubber fender has been added, i pushed some electric wire through this because i thought with out it it was a bit too soft.the deck has had its final coat of light sea grey, the fareleads have been brass painted and the protective cage for the trim rams have been fitted, and finally the yellow/red stripes have been put on...
{-) {-) enjoy
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something im rather pleased with, complete scratch build of the fishermans anchor including the shackle, a little clean up the a painting session.
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Trucker,
You should be pleased and proud with those - great to see a little bit of scratch building, both here and on other lifeboat builds - no greater feeling than when it all goes right and a sense of achievement too.
Kim [Canterbury Coxswain]
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Can any one identify what and where the red plates go that seem to be attached to the inboard sides by the entrance of the survivors pod on the Tyne class lifeboat, i suspect vent covers but im unsure...
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Yes, they’re vent covers. I can take a pic of Spirit of Lowestoft on Saturday.
Lance
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hi lance.
thanks for the offer for the pictures, are you able to tell me where the vents are that these covers are used, it will give me an idea of their size for my model and of course educate the grey matter O0
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Wow!!. my eyes seem to have become polarised to the lifeboat section of this forum, but there are so many beautiful builds of superb models, I am spoilt for choice what model I like the most.
I think I will just keep reading them all and take each one as an individual masterpiece.
mind you, there are so many builds on here it will take me some time, but I just have to say Trucker...….your model looks superb.
Herbie.
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Here’s Spirit of Lowestoft.
The first image shows where the vent cover plates are stored - both on the starboard side on Spirit, as she has an extra wide rope box on the port side.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/19/E83B81A7-7FC3-4468-BCB2-EB94480E2898.jpg)
And where the cover fits on the starboard side. You can see the horizontal guide slots below the ‘12’ marker (which is the number of the vent). Port side is similar.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2019/12/19/08FE2895-CF44-4579-8358-81652F1733B5.jpg)
Lance
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hi, furball
thank you so much for close up pics of the vent / location, its made things a lot clearer, going to remake my effort now, O0
Trucker
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Hi All
Thanks to Stan i have finally got to grips with the install of my LED,s so i have put in the stern light with a nice bit of wiring, just may be the lifeboat will be finished this year, {-) {-)
Trucker
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Hi, All
i have done some more work on my Tyne Class lifeboat, so im sharing a few more pictures, hope you like the build..
i now have a working radar, i got this from a well known auction site, cleaned it up a little, drilled through the centre and attached a drive shaft to it, made a earthing plate for the stern and a attempt to make it look like a metal plate, i have also made the navigation light holders, several attempts for these to get them looking about right,all the lights work but i wont install until the end phase of the paint work. i have also made the flood light that hangs from the mast. finally started to paint up the survivors cabin, primer and some more filler so far...
Trucker
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Heres attempt number 2, one one the antennas on top of the tyne class lifeboat, its scratch built from part of a kids drink bottle top, 16mm across outer edge 4mm with the centre pin 7mm, i filled the inside with filler and sanded down to this shape, its looks about right scale wise but theres more to add to yet. ok2
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some progress on the Tyne class lifeboat, slow but getting there,heres a phew pictures
Trucker
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hi all,
Some detailing work done on my lifeboat, looking nice now hoping to complete this part very soon.
Trucker
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as the survivors pod is nearing completion i am enjoying some fine detailing, today i have put my hands to the life raft which is stowed at the aft end , i made the quick release buckle and the straps from my scrap bin, painting tomorrow, ive also put some effort into the mast, painting and a pair of hydraulic rams.
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hi all,
work on the tyne continues, the last few days have been committed to the mast, there needs to be some cleaning up,but, scratch built most bits, the horn is made from three bits of plastic out from the scrap tin with a cocktail through the inside to make it rigid, the amber light also out from the scrap tin but this is only a dummy, flashing blue light is a off the shelf one, 360 degres white nav light was made from two slim cuts of plastic tube for top and base with a little bit of clear shrink tube for the lens, hope the LED doesnt get hot... %)
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Hi Trucker,
You seem to be enjoying yourself and making a good job of your Tyne build. Again, it is good to see someone else 'scratch' building......there's quite a few now in the recent lifeboat builds......and also using your scrap box items.
Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work and enjoyment.
Kim [C.C.]
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light up time, lights in and working, ;) now that the bulbs are in what should i use to prevent them falling out, they are quite tight but i feel some sort of plugging is needed.
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Hi Trucker,
That's good. Concerning the 'plugging', it's hard to see [which I would prefer] which is best, so:
- do you want it to be semi-permanent, so it could be taken out later - if required, then maybe some sort of body filler with the surface painted over in the correct colour...
- ....or permanent, whereby I would use a small smear of Bondic UV glue and apply the UV torch and seal solidly......but even this could be drilled out with a small dentist drill bit.
There are plenty of options and personal preferences along these lines, however, they could be left and then retro fitted if after a test period they do fall out.
Kim [C.C.]
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I love the detail you are doing a cracking job
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thank you for looking at my tyne build, this is becoming a real slog at the moment, the end is in sight but the love for the build is still there, just like to add though this is my first build... :-))
Trucker
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hi all
I have been scratch building again, pictures show the fenders im going to put on my lifeboat, each one has four pieces, then i have sanded down to what i consider a match to the pictures i have seen on the net, some finishing off and a drop of paint and think they will look ok..
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hi all.
following some big issues with my life boat i thought i would have ago at making my own windows, a few more to go but i think they look alright so far
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Hi, they look very neat and uniform. Are they made from polystyrene or 3d prints? I'm guessing they're not mouldings looking at colour of part on LHS which looks like a PU casting?
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hi RST
the broken frame on the left is what can be purchased from the internet, i didnt like these once fitted so i started scratch building my own from plastic card
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big step back wards this week with my build , i removed the the window frames from the main cabin which caused all kinds of problems for me, i was prompted to make my own frames by now which are coming along quite well actually, i now have decided to make the deck lighting actually work so a bit of cutting and remodeling needed, and to finish off a repaint , now ive got my garden project finished i can get back to the boat, pics to follow shortly,,
Trucker
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heres my main cabin, looking quite messy considering it was on the right track for finishing <:( im confidant i will bring it back soon
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The holes have been cut out for the lighting and made good, with a box inside to accommodate the LED, all my window frames are done and waiting there paint , so it's on the right track again.
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Hi Trucker,
Not an easy choice you had to make there, but you will be pleased you did, once you have got back to where you were at and now even beyond :-)) . Keep up the good work and hopefully your enjoyment and satisfaction with it all.
Kim [Canterbury Coxswain]
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Thanks for the encouragement Kim, its hard to go backwards but it is satisfying to correct the wrongs even if it is the hard way to learn {-)
thinking of reducing the window opening size next, they look a little over size in the photos.
trucker
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spent the biggest part of today filling in the existing window holes hopefully to improve the windows, firstly i cut a nice piece of plasticard for the inside this gave the sides extra strength and some thing to glue the infills to, after giving that some time to dry off i set about cutting 1mm plasticard for each window, glued in from the outside, a little bit of filler to fill the tiny gaps, going to leave for a few days so every thing to go off then im going to rub down and recut the holes for the windows hopefully a bit more accurately this time O0
Trucker
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completed the window infill this week. filled in any gaps around the edges and today smoothed every thing down, im sure there will be need to do some more but not untill ive recut the window holes :-)) this time more care will be taken.
Trucker
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Hi all
i put together two spot lights this evening made from pieces out of the scrap box, i shaped the inside to give the look of a full size light, the LED is 3mm and will be working along with the other deck lights, some cleaning up and paint it it will look ok.
Trucker
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The front spotlights I used on my Tyne are white metal ones from Cornwall Model Boats they are 6mm diameter. Here's a picture to give you some sense of scale.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/05/IMG_20201005_160342.jpg)
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thank you for sharing that with me / us, i am trying to scratch build mine, i believe im on attempt 5 or 6 now, <:(
Trucker
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Hi all
Because ive made the deck lighting a working item ive had to remake the covers for them, pictures show them scratch built from the scap box, there is actually 6 bits to each one, some sanding to shape and lots of patience %% , they have now been primed along with all the window frames, ah question time, should the window frames be painted aluminium or polished aluminium .
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Hi all, As the damp weather conditions are playing havoc with my painting plans, ive been scratch building some parts for my Tyne class lifeboat, the pictures show the progress of the life rings and the beacon, all parts are from the scrap box, ive done the best i can to be in scale with plan so hoping it looks ok..
Trucker
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Looking good Trucker. The main thing is you look to be enjoying it. Like the way you are sharing your methods and techniques......it might encourage some fellow builders to have a go at 'scratch' building more.
Keep up the good work....it will soon be April again!!
Kim [C.C.]
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:-)) thanks for the kind words, only wish i had a nice warm man cave, then perhaps this build would have been completed by now, never mind, one day O0
Trucker
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Hi, All
Ive added the final bits to the life ring holders today, done a reasonable job of the beacons and sanded down the second life ring,
the a bit of modelers license going on on this build so im really hoping it all comes together later. %%
since taking this pic ive given both rings and holders a coating of Halfords filler primer..
Trucker
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Hello all
Hope your lock down isnt too stressful,
I have taken advantage of a little warm air and sunshine and put the final coat back on the main cabin of my tyne class lifeboat and the deck light covers, sorry forgot to take pic of the covers,
Trucker
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hi all
i went for Gorilla glue to attach the window frames to the newly painted cabin <:( , stuck very well, but, what a mess i made of it im kind back where was prior to remaking the frames, lots of heart ache again <:( ,some glue to clean off that seeped out from the frames as i firmly pushed them into place, once thats cleaned off will have to look at the paint work <:(
Trucker
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Hi all
After some disaster with my original main cabin i decided to rebuild it, this one i used thicker plastic card to improve its strength, learned from various mistakes from the first, and over all im taking more care with detail and measuring, ive all so decided to wait for warmer days before thinking of any painting, heres a few pictures of my progress.
Trucker :-))
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very good. do not forget to use plastic primer, inside and out. Also paint inside, especially the joints. nemesis
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thanks for the advice Nemesis, %) , i certainly will give it some primer, the roof beams have been shaped and a roof glued on, ive put in extra strengthening pieces along each beam to help with the hold.
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hope all are well, and keeping safe, i have been doing some more rebuilding, im having another attempt at the grating for my tyne class, heres a few pics of progress, ive used 4mm x 4mm profile for this, after making a paper template, double checking the fit i thought about how i can construct the frame, at first just gluing didnt seem to be strong enough so ive put small scraps of plasticard under each joint, hoping to sand them down later so there not so obvious to the eye, i used some leggo bricks to get my right angles, so far its gone ok.
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A great idea with the lego......now how to borrow some from my granddaughter O0 O0
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hi, all
a couple of pics of my progress of the grating so far, tedious job cutting and putting into place all the grating, attached a couple of the feet, these will need trimming to match the deck camber. unable to start the left side until i can sort out a fire hydrant for it.
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hi all,
Heres my first serious attempt at bending and silver soldering, brass tube, this will be the helmsman back rest.
Trucker
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i have been busy again constructing the grating, apart from painting this looks pretty good, what do you guys think, ;)
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Nice bit of modelling Trucker very neat its looking good so far.
Regards Howard.
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thanks for looking Howard, im trying to do a nice job, believe it or not this is my first scratch build, so lots of learning
Trucker
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Trucker,
I've said it before, this is some really good scratch building, especially as a first for you! You have made my day to see that you have had a go at silver soldering....and from what I can see [before it has been cleaned up] that looks very neat. There are times to use this and others when it's not required....it's down to when strength is required.....normally as a bit of 'Risk Management' for the future. But you have succeeded and will now have this 'extra technique' in your skills set to use as and when.
The other matter you have to consider is that this is [in my personal view] possibly the hardest area of any model lifeboat build to make and get right [the Mersey stern upper steering position], and you are clearly making a very good job of it.
Your patience in the grating build has paid off and must be very rewarding for you when you 'stand back' and look at what you have achieved. Well done so far. Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing this with us.
Kim [C.C.]
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hi all,
ive been tackling the coxswains back rest again, using my new found skill, silver soldering, i have put together the entrance bar today, this will be able to rotate 360 degrees and hinge up, i under estimated the work involved for this but its been very satisfying, creating collars and blanking the ends off.
Trucker
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Sorry Trucker,
I got my lines crossed with another modeller that is building the Mersey in my previous comments!! That said, all my comments apply regarding your work here!
Cheers,
Kim
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Getting to grips with my silver soldering after some help from you guys, these a a couple of pictures of the main mast (rebuild), some cleaning to do and work out a few more bits to add but im getting there.
Trucker
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Hi all
i have had to remake my lifeboat mast again, only because i just didnt like the way things were going with the silver soldering, what was happening was that because of the heat required it became very soft and started to go out of shape, so, deep breath and rebuild number 4 was born, ive soft soldered all the joints, using a small blow torch and electrical solder, this had its own problems but its another skill ive learnt, another step towards the finish. LOL
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Hi all
ive made some small progress on my detailing of the Tyne class life boat, first pic shows the scratch built fire hydrant and a filling pipe, the hydrant was 3D printed for me but it was very brittle and broke, i managed to put the body together but had to make a new handle, second pic shows the same but painted, third pic is my scratch made rudders through to completion today. Also you can see two spot lights in the pic that i have wired up and completed.
Trucker
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Looking good :-))
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Hi, all
I have had to remove the rubber rubbing strip from my Tyne class life boat due to the self adhesive tape failing
I'm left with a bit of a mess to clean off, so, I'm wondering what rubber others have use with success and how you attached it to the side of the hull, and where to obtain the rubber.
Trucker
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I normally use Cyno if it is flat to flat. Have a look at how the real one is fitted as sometimes it is fitted in a channel, nemesis
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from what i can see from the pictures i have of a real tyne class boat the rubber has many holes through it suggesting its bolted to the hull from the out side, unless i cut and shape a wooden rubbing strip the normal method from other builds is D shape profile rubber from the net, this is very soft and hollow so bolting is a no no
Trucker
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If it is D shape it will be flat on the back, try a test piece that replicates the boat with a drop of cyno, nemesis
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Hi, All
I have taken advantage of our lovely warm weather and put some paint on to the rebuilt main cabin, i can now start to push onwards and see some rewards.
Trucker
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my proposed pic didnt seem to get attached so hopefully its here.
Trucker
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hi all, work still goes on with my lifeboat, some detailing of the bridge area and main cabin, now redoing the escape hatch, checked the working of fwd spot lights and deck lighting, pictures tell the story,
Trucker
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Hi all, hope all well :-)) , i have been adding a few bits to my tyne class lifeboat, recently added the glazing which is from some packaging product i then painted the inside with blue only because i havent detailed the inside, i think it looks fine, whippers added as well and an anchor placed by the winch, lots going on now almost completed the radar mast, my next part to complete.
Trucker
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Trucker,
It's certainly a neat looking build and model. Keep up the good work, it looks as if you are enjoying the build...I hope so.....as that's what it is all about 'at the end of the day'.
Regards,
Kim [Canterbury Coxswain]
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:-)) heres a couple of new pictures showing the mast light and deck lighting connected and final test, great feeling when things come together, enjoy your modelling guys...
Trucker
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Well done with all your work and patience. Your Tyne class is very impressive.
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Thank you for your encouragement :-)) , heres a another picture of my latest parts made and added, ive now added a new black rubber fender around the hull, a new and better looking chain guide at the bow and a new roller behind that, the roller and guide are completely fabricated from many parts and sanded and shaped.
Trucker
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%% Also have in the last few minutes completed and tested all the lighting using a Action P44 switcher, im impressed.....
Trucker
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lighting up :-)) all working as i had hoped, a big thanks to all that i have had help from from this forum regarding the electrics.
Trucker
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Hi all, constructed the two large whip aerials today, most parts are aluminium tube, a brass sleeve was made into the bracket which holds the legs thats glued into position, next step some paint.
Trucker
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:(( put the tyne on the kids garden pool today, found it needed very little ballast which i thought was a good thing, secondly i found i had to put a lager main fuse in, i now have a 25 amp, but the most disturbing of all, it bloody leaks, can only be from around where the shaft go through aaaaaahhhhhh.
Trucker
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Traced the point where the leak is entering the hull, now to etch a plan for the repair, fiber glass is looking the best option to me, but it means another set back {:-{
Trucker
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Hi, excuse my forgetfulness but looking back to early posts I can't remember if you built on a PS hull from sarik or a grp one from elsewhere? Where's the leaks coming from? It's looking very fantastic anyway.
Rich
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Hi, Rich.
Its been so long now from when i purchased the hull i cant remember where i actually purchased it, its a thin plastic hull. the leak appears to be from the area where i put the port side shaft through the hull...BUT, i now have worse things to fix, in my attempt to try and fix the leak i put a good lump of evostick gripall around the area of the leak DO NOT DO THIS ,, it generates heat and over a couple of days has destroyed the plastic and now has no strength or stability a massive rebuild is now on the cards. lots of tears and choice words around my garden...
<:( <:( <:( <:(
Trucker
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Hi,
Correct me if I'm wrong but if it's the green Evo Stik "Gripfill"(?, I can't find Gripall?) that might be a problem. I see on BnQ website it's advertised as solvent based and in the Evo Stik TDS is says "not suitable for EPS" -which is usually an indicator it's got solvents in there and unless it cures quick and they wick-out quickly / not applied too thick it can cause problems over longer term. It does sound a bit like a PS vac-forming to me. I have 5 or 6 hulls from Sarik at least some are described as ABS but they all seem to be in PS so far. Not that there's anything wrong with that! I kow some folk are using building adhesives quite OK but I'm struggling a bit with them so far.
I think you're better posting some pictures of the area. At least also, now the stuff is in there it might be more hassle than it's worth to remove and just cope / repair around it after it's left long enough for the solvents to come out. Depending where it is also of course the beuty of PS is that it's often repairable.
I can imagine you cursing like a wounded pirate, I think we've all been there at some point!
Rich
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Hi Rich
You are correct i did use Gripfill, guess thats what happens when i rush into getting my woes onto the web, ive managed to remove all the gripfill from the damaged area and started to put my repair plan into action, whilst im doing this im also improving some old work so, as it stands some work ahead.
Trucker
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Hello every one.
With the repairs to my damaged hull just about complete, i find my self battling with <*< <*< do i put the boat in the test pool before i put the paint over the repair or after, in my mind its both ways, what your thoughts pleas
Trucker
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I would test the repair before applying paint, just to save any issues with the repair.
If it is wood make sure its sealed.
:-)
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Hello all
My build on my tyne lifeboat hasnt gone to well since the discovery of the leak, if all goes well its in the test pool tomorrow, ive also had another go at building the railings around the coxswains steering area mainly because i failed with the bending parts, so here is the new one.
Trucker
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Hi Tucker,cool that it will go on. I've just began with a hull and the plan in 1:19. And I'm happy, that you put your build report online here.
Bending brass tubes is mostly tricky. Now it's too late for hints and suggestions, but for some things I fake that bent brass tube with a polystyrol tube with a reasonable thick brass wire inside (>1mm diameter).Best regards, cool ship!Joerg
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thanks for you reply my friend, bending the brass tube to some of the tight radius required is what caused the most issues, the new railings are all made from plastic rod, to bend i heated and found any object that suited the radius the bent the rod until i was satisfied, i hope you will enjoy your build of the tyne class lifeboat, dont forget to post your progress on here...
trucker
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Hi Trucker,
The railings are looking fine....time and patience well spent. :-))
Yes, brass tube does kink easily. A few tips, just in case you want to proceed this way in the future:
- some model shops stock 'softer' brass tubing, normally used by the aeroplane fraternity, for their fuel lines. This is then soldered as per normal. It's worth noting this, just so you do not buy this when in a shop and actually want the normal harder version.
- then you could apply heat and anneal the area you want to bend and then either use bending tubes [reasonably cheap and stocked by model shops in a pack of about five different diameters......
- or even fill the tube with fine sand, prior to bending around a suitable radius object, as you have done with the plastic version above.
Any way, you're doing a sterling job and already you have the knowledge that another Tyne builder is using your build to help and encourage his build. Long may it continue!
Cheers,
Kim [Canterbury Coxswain]
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Hi, all
think the mice in my shed are getting revenge for the traps i keep leaving them, <*< i was ready to put some small antennas on to the roof this weekend, but can i find them, no,
dont you just hate it when you spend hours making tiny things and then, well, theyve gone %%
Trucker
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Finally got the lifeboat in the grandchildrens pool ;) for a leak test, after it being in the water for a couple of hours i can say with confidence the inside is dry.
Trucker
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That's great Trucker :-)) !!
Well worth all the effort and a confirmation, ready for an outing in the early Spring...hopefully. She looks good on the water and I hope an encouragement for all the time and effort, so far, put in.
Kim [Canterbury Coxswain]
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Finally got the lifeboat in the grandchildrens pool ;) for a leak test, after it being in the water for a couple of hours i can say with confidence the inside is dry.
Congratulations, leaking is always nasty. Right in time for getting out early in the year, as Kim mentioned.
Regards,Joerg
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Hi all
got some paint on the coxswains railings this weekend, im gonna call this bit finished,
Trucker
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Trucker,
You actually fooled me!! {-) I had to look twice at the first two photos to see if it was the real boat or your model.......the tightly 'cropped' shot and the strong sunlight made it look like the actual boat! Well done with the detail. Looks great. Keep up the good work and [hopefully] enjoyment.
Kim
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Hi,looks really great, and it's sunny after all these stormy days. Ready for calls? :-))
Best,Joerg
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Wow that is class building :-)) It looks so real I just don't know what to say - just amazing!!
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Thank you all for your kind words regarding my build, its heart warming and encouraging :-)) :-))
Trucker
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one big job has been going around my head now for a few days, that is what material should i make all the stantions from, brass or abs rod and tube, i can seen benefits for both ways, the brass idea will involve plenty of silver soldering, cleaning up , the abs method seems a bit more easier to construct but might not last the test of time {:-{ i could buy some but as ive scratch build pretty much every thing i might as well make the stantions too.
whats your thoughts
Trucker
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Hi Trucker,
For me it would be the brass rod/tube route. However, it does not have to be silver soldering, normal soft ['lead'] solder will suffice. I'm in Kent myself.....not sure how far away, so might be able to help. However, the main three points to remember are:
- A clean joint - both parts cleaned with very fine [1200 grade] wet & dry
- right heat [temperature] for the right size of job / material
- a rock steady positioning [sometimes pinning the parts to wood or the special fibre composite soldering sheets using paper clips cut to 'U' shape] and then a good quality flux paste.
Wash with soapy water once finished and then 'Swiss' file [cheap versions for this job, NOT your finest!] the main surplus solder and final wet and dry rub to get back to original brass surfaces. Metal Primer coat and then a black satin enamel.
All the best. This is covered on my Shannon build with both this and my silver soldering approach. I taught this on my U3A Model Boat course some years back and folk said that once they went down this road the 'mystic' of soldering vanished and they would always solder in future. QED.
All the best, do come back on a PM if you want any further 'chat throughs'.
Cheers,
Kim
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Hi Trucker,if you handle your boats with great care and never had problems with transport etc. PS would be ok. Maybe ps-rod and a thin rod of brass inside.
I will built all the stuff from brass, especially the connection into the deck will be tricky, my plan is to make it from 0.5mm brass and about 2mm wide, drill holes in the bar which holds the deck and twist it below, glue that part with superglue. In the photos and at least one of the other building blogs the holder on/in deck and the stantions both have a triangle which is the connection plate. That I would take over ("I'll do it that way too") so that one has an easier way to repair 'mistakes'.
Indeed the soldering is tricky, but if you found the right material and tools including right temperature and soldering water it can go quite well. You just need to make a form or a hold so that everything keeps right in place and doesn't move. As many of the parts are needed several times it's worth the effort.
For the stantions I would use small brass pipes, for connectionts you can stick a tiny rod as connector between both parts and use soldering water over it. The connector is always helping for a stronger connection. The plates which hold the steel 'ropes' I would cut the stantion from both sides and stick a plate of brass through it.
I've made a sketch which hopefully helps a bit understanding my words.
Good luck!
Best,Joerg
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made a couple of trial stanchions today using 1/8th brass tube, after filing in the cod mouth shapes to take another piece of tube which the safety cable go through i silver soldered every thing together trying my best to keep things inline, over all its not too bad, my concern at the moment is the size is a bit big, another trial is needed... ;)
Trucker
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Hi all
i settled on brass rod for the stanchions with tube for the middle and top holes, construction is made up of two stanchion parts with the tube silver soldered in, once i worked out a the best way to make these it became a little easier, heres a couple of pictures so far, one shows the construction phase with a few made , and another my basic soldering set up.
Trucker
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Nicely done Trucker :-)) There's more than 'one way to skin a cat!', as the saying goes. You had a few thoughts, shared them, got advice and made up your own mind on which way you would proceed. They look good and solid and should take the odd knock, which we all do to our models, usually loading or unloading for the pond or going to a show! The end products look neat too.
Keep up the good work....I am sure you will tempt someone else to try this method of construction too.
Looking forward to your next Post. I hope to get back to my Shannon in the very near future.
Regards,
Kim
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good job :-)) looks very stable, that will be an advantage later.
But it was a nasty/awful job, I guess.
Best,Joerg
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thanks for the encouragement guys, thinking of the base now and how to attach them securely to the deck,
hows your tyne progressing joerg
Trucker
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Hi Trucker,if you look into beyno1968's built, you can see extended stations which were sticked (and glued) in to the Deck. Probably the easiest way. As your stantions seem to have the needed length, you can stick some MS rod inside for extension.
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,61309.50.html
I have another examp,e where the buider used an aluminum angle profile and bult the stand (deck connection) from it. Just don't know where it's from, I try to send you a pn.
My tyne is progresing 'slowly but unsystematic'. As I work and develope on boathouse, slipway and lifeboat in parallel there are long 'thinking' times inbetween 8) {-)
The motors to the propellers are mounted, rudder built and mounted but not the connections to the servo, as all depends on the space I need for the trim plate movement. Which, at the moment is handled by 0.5mm stainless steel rod running in various sizes of ps pipes. But the bow inside the hull ana a propper movement ist tricky. Nevertheless, I think I have now two diferent solutions wher at lest the non favored will work, I just have to come up with the manual movement part inside the hull.
The slipway idea is already a bit further than the last image and I wait for some test cutouts from my colleague with the laser.
Besides all,I was asked to write an article about the built of my pontoon, so I had to finish the 'non-invasive' clamp idea which will not do any harm to where it will be mounted.
Best refards,Joerg
Image: a fantastic morning at the pond with my LÜBECK II (Sievers, Hannover), WILMA SIKORSKI (Graupner) and my pontoon, mounted with (still too long) metal grabbers.
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hi all.
I have put together a few trial stanchion feet, this seems to be the stronger and better looking one so far, much work is needed but im on the right track.
Trucker
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Wondering if the stanchion base that I'm making would be good to resin mould, could also do with stanchions in situ
Never done resin moulding, so what's your thoughts could it be done
Trucker
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Hi Trucker,I just use water washable resin, therefore I can't use the whole variation (there are semi flexible resins) but normal resin would be to brittle I think, there is no flexibility, it'll break fast.But maybe someone has a solution with alcohol washable resin. I still head for a brass solution, but I may have a laser cut solution.
Manfred Sievers (Hannover) has these things in brass for the 1:20 Mersey lifeboat. A guy just started to build the boat in a german forum. When it comes to the stantions, I'll try to get you that solution.
In this forum you can see the content of that kit:https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,60106.msg632950.html#msg632950
but it's from germany... tax customs and all that poop ....
Best,Joerg
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been silver soldering again O0 here are the stanchions for my tyne class lifeboat, clean up and the bases to sort out, but things have definitely moved on, just may be an end in sight {-)
Trucker
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looks god :-))
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Trucker,
As JoJo has said, they look good [god] :-)) You will be pleased with the time and effort spent on these when you look back at this episode of the build!
When you have taken the worst of the excess solder off, one cheaper and effective way of getting the final result is to use the emery boards that the ladies use to shape and buff their nails. These can be got from Boots the chemist [including a sponge centred block with four grades of 'grit'] or for slightly more cost the modellers ones from Flory Models in a variety of packs and grades. Alternately you can double sided tape or glue various grades of wet & dry paper to stiff card. If you use a small amount of washing up liquid in the small dish of water, to act as the lubricant, this will help to stop the paper from clogging.
So, all the best with the finishing progress, it's great to see someone have a go and succeed with their silver soldering. Remember to use a metal primer once finished, to stop them tarnishing as they await their final colour coats.
Cheers,
Kim [Canterbury Coxswain]
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Trucker,
As JoJo has said, they look good [god] :-))
Kind of Alzheimer disease on my small keyboard here ;)
Trucker: The more stable they are, the happier you will beat at the end! :-))
Joerg
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Hi all.
ive been waiting for this very warm dry condition for quite some time, probably like most i expect, so, i have finally repainted the white hull on my tyne class, its not a bad finish with the rattle can, a couple of small runs but that what you get by rushing things, i hope for a few more days of the bright yellow object above us so i can get on with the re coat of the blue..
Trucker
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Hi, i have finally put my lifeboat in the lake for a maiden voyage, no bubbly though, my thoughts are all went well, how ever i do have one electrical issue, besides that the hull was dry inside, the boat looked trimmed, and the speed was good,
ive put the issue on the electric heading...
Trucker
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With the bases for the stanchions made up I'm now putting the plan together in order to make the mould and resin mould them, how ever each base now has a piece of plastic rod attached which will go through the deck to aid stability when in place, SO, I m not sure of the best method to make the mould, IE, two pieces, envilop, what's the experts advice , oh I'm not moulding the stanchions just the base....
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Here i have a pic of the stanchion feet with extensions attached and a before and after of the life rings that will be attached to the railings, moulding and painting in the few days,
Trucker
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heres a little pic of my first ever attempt at moulding, i have done two moulds, one for all the straight footings and one for the feet that have angles , fingers crossed all will be good..
Trucker
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heres a pic of my first ever attempt of moulding, these are for the footings of my stanchions, one mould for the straight footings and one for the angled ones
Trucker
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Well, the moulding did not go as i had hoped, the rubber mould set ok but the actual master i had made up just was not good enough, so back to the bench to come up with some thing better, even though i have already made all the stanchions im wondering if things will be easier to mould if, i mould the base and stanchion as one piece.
What colour should the life rings be. i see some are orange, is that the same orange as the cabin, and i have seen life rings that are red ish in colour.
Trucker
,
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What colour should the life rings be. i see some are orange, is that the same orange as the cabin, and i have seen life rings that are red ish in colour.
Hi Trucker,
I can't help with mouldings and resin, but for the life rings I would choose a photo of the boat you're building and use that color. If they are painted 8probably the old ones) it's resonable that they have the same orange. If they are from colored plastic it will be similar but not exactly the same orange (whicht shouldn't matter for the model.
Best,Joerg
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hi Joerg
yes your idea of painting the life rings the same as pictured sounds good except i have photos of the same boat but with red ish looking rings and orange rings, im guessing its not really that much of an issue unless i have a rivet count viewing my model,
how you doing with your boat build
Trucker
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Hi Trucker,wo if you don't care about an exact timeframe of your boats service it really doesn't matter how you paint them. choose the color you like most! Or build the douple amount of life rings and make both colors :}
My Tyne was waiting for the boathouse. I was pretty busy at work and still the trim panels are not in the final solution, no brainspace was left for that. And then my wife was away over weekend and even for a short holiday. Which means, free living room, time for the boathouse and slipway.
Which is working:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BqGKqpFGVY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0BqGKqpFGVY)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFO9232sSlk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFO9232sSlk)
Next week I hope for 4 days camping and a meeting of some german forum. The Tyne has to be 'waterproof' by then. I've glued 6 plates of polystyrol for forming the stern-keel, just glued it into the open end today and by now filling up the part with 60min 2k epoxy from the inside. That stuff finds every tiny empty or free space. For the weekend I hope for soldering and wiring motors , installing the rudder servo etc....
I want to test the slipway on water!
Best,Joerg
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Here are a couple of pictures showing the scratch built stanchion support base, these have been made to the photos of the real boat, problem i have is the height the total stanchion is now 62mm, ive got to lose at least 10mm and keep things looking right. doesnt look an easy task,
can some one verify the height please, im going for 50mm but im not quite sure,,,
Trucker
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Hi All
Hope you all are busy in the boat building man cave and also enjoying this lovely weather,, after having three failed attempts at making my stanchions from a mould i have decided to every one from scratch using brass and a little bit of plastic, perhaps slightly over engineered for some think that should be an easy thing, its labour intensified but it makes me happy {-)
Trucker
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:-))
No ideas with the stanchion height, 62mm seems too much and 50 a bit low.
62mm, in my case, would be up in the windows but if you have a good photo from the side (no tilt of the boat) they're 54-56 from deck (including the U support) to top.
I'm still far away from building them but I'm sure the stanchions will be out of brass.
Best,Joerg
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stanchions normally about a metre, nemesis
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Hi Trucker,could you tell me the size of your black shock absorber around the hull?I have a 6mm height and 5mm deep one on stock but it seems just a bit too small.
Best,Joerg
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Hi joerg
The size of the rubbing rubber i have used is, 9mm width, at the flat edge and a depth of 10mm, i did buy a few sizes from ebay and then just tried each to see which suited the boat best.
Trucker
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Dry fitted the stern stanchions tonight. i like the way things have turned out, plenty to work on before the paint comes out , but ive found the rhythm in making them now..
Trucker
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put together part of the stern stanchions this weekend, i have found doing these a real struggle, i have followed the photo as much as i can, the first thing i noticed the railings do not follow the curve of the actual stern they are straight from stanchion to stanchion and appear to have bolts to a fix them, im recreating this by soldering and hope to glue on some hexi replica bolt heads.
Trucker
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Trucker,
It's continuing to look very nice and progress is good. Keep up the good work. She'll soon be afloat on a 'water somewhere here in Kent', drawing in the local admiring onlookers O0 .
Cheers,
Kim [Canterbury Coxswain]
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thanks for the encouraging words KIM :-)) i hope to put it back in the water on our clubs next meeting, its an all day event on the 24th.
Trucker
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Hi Trucker,it really makles me jeaolus %%
When I look at it now, the stanchons look like the are the outermost parts of the boat, is this right? (can be wideangle effect)
The oute frame of the boat should be the black rubbing rubber, otherwise the stanchions would always be damaged when hitting some other boat.
https://www.alamy.de/rnli-alle-wetter-tyne-klasse-rettungsboot-freiwilliger-schlagen-das-wasser-in-eine-demonstration-starten-in-selsey-rettungsboot-am-tag-der-markteinfuhrung-image238364710.html?imageid=44BB3EDB-3F65-4CFE-91AA-39DD25CCB5E6&p=85234&pn=1&searchId=66c5b4dbe8e8bf0ef99e3ae02a816fcf&searchtype=0 (https://www.alamy.de/rnli-alle-wetter-tyne-klasse-rettungsboot-freiwilliger-schlagen-das-wasser-in-eine-demonstration-starten-in-selsey-rettungsboot-am-tag-der-markteinfuhrung-image238364710.html?imageid=44BB3EDB-3F65-4CFE-91AA-39DD25CCB5E6&p=85234&pn=1&searchId=66c5b4dbe8e8bf0ef99e3ae02a816fcf&searchtype=0)
But I guess they are just sticked in the deck and not glued yet.
Really nice work!!Best,Joerg
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Joerg
The stanchions are correct to my plan, they are not glued yet so might be giving an odd perspective
Trucker
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Hi All
Started to install the stanchions on the stb side for now, its not been an easy job for me, most of my issues are the measurements for them and the toes bars, so ive had to compromise as i progress, so heare are a couple of the pics so show my work.
Trucker
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:-)) really a nice job!
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thank ship mate, hows your tyne class coming along
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thank ship mate, hows your tyne class coming along
slooooooooooooooow and unsystematic.......
Many ideas in mind, thinking over this and that, planning some smoke generation (just for starting the engines in the boathouse and a sudden 'full speed ahead'.
Waiting for some material. Went a bit further on with the deck parting and stabilization of the deckframe below. Too much family "xxxxx" keeps me away from deeper work. I hope to get the boathouse winch running in the next two weeks, just as a test - but who knows.
Just realized that the trim plates are not flat anymore, they are bent quite a lot.... so they have to be replaced by metal or hard plastic.
Three steps forward and two steps back, the usual stuff ok2 Best,Joerg
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Hi All
Once again i have a crisis regarding a leaking lifeboat, the tyne class has been out on the lake again, but, i have noticed water sloshing about in the keel area, after making up a quick test tank at home i wanted to check if the water was getting in via the propshaft, it appears the shafts are not to blame, looking at the out side ive noticed a small crack in the rework filler i did last year, its all a bit odd, SO, could the motors be vibrating and causing the repair to flex, forgot to say i used fiber glass inside and filler out side,
would using rubber under the motors help,
Should i fiber glass the out side and repaint etc, and as a last resort is worth considering stripping every thing out and fiber glassing the inside, this is extreme but if needed
Trucker