Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Beginners start here...! => Topic started by: Rodeo on October 24, 2018, 10:56:21 am
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Hi All
I've joined to learn about new techniques for boat building.Stuff like adhesives,battery power ,radio control etc have advanced so much since I built my last finished boat (Fairey Swordsman)50yrs ago,and an aborted plans built tug 20 yrs ago. Ive forvotten most stuff like balancing the hull as to where to place the motor/battery etc.I'm scratch building a 22" tinplate hull at present.Must research best adhesive to stick large areas of ply to metal(Gorilla glue?) Seen it, never used it! I'll leave you in peace and go research!!
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Welcome aboard Rodeo. :-))
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.I'm scratch building a 22" tinplate hull at present.Must research best adhesive to stick large areas of ply to metal(Gorilla glue?) Seen it, never used it!
in my humble opinion Rodeo I would leave any form of gorilla glue alone...……
I have used the brown stuff that is moisture activated, the white wood stuff that has the sticking power of chewing gum...….the cyano acrylate is too brittle and a knock dislodges it easily, and the laminated duct tape...…...has the sticking power of toilet paper.....I have used all four to try them out, and have always gone back to my old faithful's but don't take my word for it, after all I was only a woodwork/metalwork teacher for 22 years.
however, my favourite when I was gluing ply to a steel deck that I was putting on a steam trawler 32 years ago was a specialist 2 part epoxy specially made for steel to steel and steel to timber, and tested to 100c...….it was expensive even in those days, but it stood the test of time and the model I used it on has been in Fleetwood museum since 1988 without any delamination. :-))
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For metal to wood, as Neil says, a slow setting 2 part epoxy.
Others can work OK, but whatever is used, surface preparation is King. All adhesives need a textured surface to key to. Talking about clean surface abrasion, not carved dovetails.
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Araldite is my favourite,but is costly for sticking to large areas.
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Sticks all seems to be the new go to glue
Ned
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Hi Rodeo P/m sent to you if you are u/k based then a building adhesive may do the job. You can contact Everbuild on 0113 2403456 ask for technical they will confirm if stixall will meet you needs. I am sure it will but you pays your money and use what you like.
Stan.
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in my humble opinion Rodeo I would leave any form of gorilla glue alone...……
I have used the brown stuff that is moisture activated, the white wood stuff that has the sticking power of chewing gum...….the cyano acrylate is too brittle and a knock dislodges it easily, and the laminated duct tape...…...has the sticking power of toilet paper.....I have used all four to try them out, and have always gone back to my old faithful's but don't take my word for it, after all I was only a woodwork/metalwork teacher for 22 years.
however, my favourite when I was gluing ply to a steel deck that I was putting on a steam trawler 32 years ago was a specialist 2 part epoxy specially made for steel to steel and steel to timber, and tested to 100c...….it was expensive even in those days, but it stood the test of time and the model I used it on has been in Fleetwood museum since 1988 without any delamination. :-))
I bet you still use Cascamite as well {-) (I mean the original powdered version!) and boil animal bones for a fortnight!
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Cascamite,now theres a blast from the past! Remember cataloy paste before body filler? Anyway,I use fixall a lot (made by soudal).What I want to stick is 4mm ply laminated to inside of the tin plate hull,to remove some of the bumps and dips that were dents in the can I took the tin from.I reckon 'paste'type glues ie fixall etc will be too thick.I tested some Gorilla Glue today,it seemed 'runny ' and the consistency in looking for.
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Sorry Stan I did see your post mate.I am in UK .Essex.
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Going to start again with my tin plate hull project! Not happy with a couple of areas of the build so far.Its "ok" but I know I can do better.Now on the look out for more tin plate! Will keep y'all posted when I find some!
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Tin plate sourced ,new hull bent up,Not soldered yet!
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I would love too see some pictures! There is a chapter on metal hull making in a book on model boat building. Sadly the author died before he could finish the notes he was writing to describe the process but he got the hull built and described deck making.
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old biccies/ chocolates tin for a source
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Depending on size required!
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D'accord mon ami