Model Boat Mayhem
Sales, Wants & TRADERS => Whats in the box? => Topic started by: tica on November 19, 2018, 11:39:11 am
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Hi there
There are some new kit available from PEBA made by kymodel, I saw the prototypes in Germany back in October 2018, and they did look nice and well designed.
I have just received the MOORING TUG I. The first kits come with some extras, like servo and accessories for it also a motor (speed 400 clone) is included and I'm not sure if this is standard or not.
The model will be Length 350mm width 118 mm and scale is 1:32
Instruction is in English and is fairly good based on the origin of the kit.
The hull is in 3D printed plastic and only require a minor clean-up and a rinse with soap and water to remove the dust from the printing.Access to the hull is good and the removable part of the deck is prepared for magnets, which is included in the kit. Mounting points for the motor and servo is already included in the 3D print.There are some printed fittings include and they are of good quality. The few wood details is also of an acceptable quality and will require some light cleaning and a light sanding.
The etched metal fittings look nice and with a fair amount of details. The driveshaft has to be assemble of several parts but looks solid.
The Cabin is a single piece and needs to be assembled with window frames and other details, there are also included some brass wire for the cabin "roll cage" and this is the only part of the kit that will take some work and maybe frustration for a newcomer to the hobby.
All i all I'm looking fwd to start the build.
Regards
Carsten
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And the last 4 pics.
The last pic is of the PEBA 1:32 crew, they come prepainted and is of a acceptable quality
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that looks a nice little project for next winter whilst watching tv, tica, but you don't say what price it is.
thanks for showing.
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It's a great little kit and could be a good choice as a farther / son or granddad / grandson project.
Introduction price is 108 and will go up to 129 and I can see that stock i getting low (he got 200 in the first shipment)
http://www.hobby-lobby-modellbau.com/onlineshop/product_info.php/info/p6313_MOORING-TUG-I---Kit---38-90015.html (http://www.hobby-lobby-modellbau.com/onlineshop/product_info.php/info/p6313_MOORING-TUG-I---Kit---38-90015.html)
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It's a great little kit and could be a good choice as a farther / son or granddad / grandson project.
Introduction price is 108 and will go up to 129 and I can see that stock i getting low (he got 200 in the first shipment)
http://www.hobby-lobby-modellbau.com/onlineshop/product_info.php/info/p6313_MOORING-TUG-I---Kit---38-90015.html (http://www.hobby-lobby-modellbau.com/onlineshop/product_info.php/info/p6313_MOORING-TUG-I---Kit---38-90015.html)
nice price to...
...cheap considering the hours it will give building and detailing it.
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Ooo! Very nice!
Looks like it will make a nice build!
Keep us posted. :-))
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Any word of a UK importer / seller for these PEBA kits?
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Ooo! Very nice!
Looks like to will make a nice build!
Keep us posted. :-))
I will, when I get to it :-)
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now that i like...........350mm if my maths is correct is 13.8".......tiny. I want one!
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just tried to order one, no paypal, sorry, no deal. a shame as it looks very good.
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just tried to order one, no paypal, sorry, no deal. a shame as it looks very good.
Yes it is annoying >>:-( but that's "typical" for the Germans even in 2018 {:-{
For my part a bank payment ended up costing me the same as using paypal (2,5£) so no problem for me.
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Shame the KYModels / PEBA kits are not more widely distributed - I think there is a US distributor - but have had difficulty in getting more details
Rumor is that there is going to be someone selling these kits in the UK
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Just tried to log in. Problem the site does not recognise the codes it gives you. I have tried 3 times and been very careful to get them right, but it just repeats a new code each time. Anyone else had this problem?
Jim W {:-{
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Just tried to log in. Problem the site does not recognise the codes it gives you. I have tried 3 times and been very careful to get them right, but it just repeats a new code each time. Anyone else had this problem?
Jim W {:-{
Is it with the http://www.hobby-lobby-modellbau.com homepage or http://www.peba-hobby.de ? I can access the first but not the other.
BRCarsten
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this looks a lovely little kit , keeping my eye on this ,thanks mate
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I had no trouble registering with hobby lobby and have made a purchase yesterday
I dont recall any codes? I just followed the link in my email from them after filling in my details
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Stevns-Arctic/i-RBqjntg/0/6fdf2057/X3/7378A1E7-7E76-4C6C-B557-819B8D6F123B-X3.png)
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Did anyone in the uk get to import these kits?
The damen tug looks good ( looks like a damen that I use to work on )
Dan
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No-one in the UK - rumor was one of the well advertised companies was going to.
I ordered mine from Hobby-Lobby-Modellbau with no issues.
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No-one in the UK - rumor was one of the well advertised companies was going to.
I ordered mine from Hobby-Lobby-Modellbau with no issues.
Ok thanks for the info, shame no one got the import as seems could make a good amount of orders
Dan
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Any update on the kit / build Carsten?
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Slow progress Martin slow progress
I have not been hit by the Lockdown of Denmark, more the opposite as I'm working in the Medical device business. So no time for building or sailing.
I would guess that I'm 45% into the build, but no time for a build Log (Pictures are saved so when time permits it I'll get it up)
RegardsCarsten
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OK, is the hull waterproof without painting? - How thick is the hull walls?
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Hull walls: bottom part is approx. 2-3mm and some places above waterline is down to 1-1.5mm for details.
Haven't tested it in water without paint, but I cannot see why it should not be watertight.
One club member dropped another of these PEBA kits from approx. 1m and it broke, so it's a bit brittle but it could be glued back together. Worst fear is that you are rammed on the water by a bigger boat, it will properly not survive it.
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You can always coat the insides with generous coat of resin or epoxy.... :-))
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How are you getting on with yours guys? Not to hijack te thread but I got mine just before xmas as the vacation project -would have had it finished if it wasn't fr a problem with a paint order.
I deviated a bit: My deck and cabin were really dissapointingly distorted. Managed to get it straight enough without risking damage but the magnets would never hold the deck hatch. I've got mine on two little retaining cams underneath and you turn a barrel and the toolbox to release. I printed a new "hook box" with the winch inside. I printed a new ladder with "square" sections -just because. I soldered up the rope guard frame easier and printed a mesh for over the radar -looks OK but it's a different pattern. Printed a more accurate radar and tried to make better lights for the cabin top. I don't like the dog drive prop or the fact it's left hand but will live with it. Very impressed with the coupling but changed the motor for an RE385. It will take quite a bit of ballast! 7.2v 2.9Ah high power Ni-MH hidden inside very easily!!
I've not sanded all the striations from printing -quite happy to wear the badge for that as a 3-D print. Was just a bit dissapointed at the distortion of some parts. The cabn doors on mine are held in with the magnets instead. I'm hiding the receiver in the cabin, well above the waterline and batteries.
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Any more photos RTS? :-)
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Work and puppy (Bill the rottie) is taking a lot of resources at the moment, but here are a few pictures.
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And my workshop right now, don't think I'll get much build in there.
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Hi Martin, usually can't get past virus checker still so I have pics of mine finished but not got them up yet.
Hi tica, looks good. Did you have much distortion on the parts? I had to straighten allot of mine and took it as fare/safe as I could with the hairdryer but in the recent warm weather the deck's gone back to being like a dog's hind leg again. I also made the mistake of using Zap canopy glue for the windows from reading internet posts -best glazing I ever did except found it's not even remotely splashproof! It's school white glue in a fancy bottle at 10x the price! I've not tried to sort it yet. Will never use canopy glue ever again.
I sailed mine though, I'm glad I swapped for a 385 motor as the one supplied would have been WAY too fast. 7.2v As batteries seemed about right and mine is about on the max hull speed. No need for ballast but I need to glue a washer or two on port side. The prop doesn't work much at all in reverse but that is no bad thing on such a small model, but once it does move it's quite steerable going aft either direction.
With the deck distorted I'll never be able to sail in chop. But the hull itself seems quite stable even with my receiver up in the cabin to keep it well dry.
If I can share some more pics from the laptop I'll add them.
Richard
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Hi RST
I got a kit from the first batch delivered to Hobby-Lobby and the distortions of parts has been minimal, only the floor of the steering house were bad, but I cut it out and that was that. I know that one from my club, did have a lot of distortion of his kit and he did spend some time with a heat-gun, clamps, steel rulers and wire to get it right, as I have not been at the club for more than a year so I don't know the status of his model.
For the windows i have used either Lock-tight superglue added with a toothpick (Small drops) from the inside while the window were in place, with no fume residue on the windows. Or a German product that is a bit more difficult to work with and seems to gone from the market.
For my Billings Phantom wind-shield I used Glue&Glace with good result.
Carsten
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See if this works (I just realised how dirty it is!). So far I can log-on but not sure how long it wil let me through...
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Seems to be OK so far...
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Lost at sea in the new SUDS pond next to my flat. You can maybe make out I need to add a penny washer or something in there to correct a couple of degrees list. Actually it rolls quite alarmingly but seems to bob back OK so far. I've tried to get a couple of shots of models on the move but don't have enough hands sorry...
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Did I show the home-made hook box before, it's a bit rough and ready but now has the little winch inside. This is a pic after I printed it -I was originally just trying to have a couple of swann neck vents for the levers for the cams that hold the deck down but changed my mind and fitted some deck clutter instead. The polystyrene durbar / chequer plate was an attempt to hide the line of the deck hatch and try to give some overlap to keep any splashes out.
I've made a bit of a boob and I think I threw away my A4 printed sheet showing the profile. I was going to scan it to copy the text into my vinyl cutter for the name. Without it I'll just have to pick some kind of font that looks close-enough.
The other boob I made (I was building it away from home) was not to apply a darker colour under the orange paint. Even after about 4 thick coats it's a bit translucent still.
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Perhaps I should add I'm not good at following instructions...
I made my own rope guards over the top of the cabin. Slightly different but allot easier to solder up with only very basic tools on the Mothers dining table at xmas! The grille over the dome I printed up and very carefully trimmed and glued on.
I printed my own radar dome which looks a tiny bit better in my opinion. The kit one looked a bit small and lost in there.
I didn't think the cabin top nav. lights with the kit looked like what I saw on the pics, so I made my own from bits and bobs. There's also a strange double domed forwards pointing thing on the port side which I can only guess are two electric horns? I can't remember whether I used blobs of araldite or lentils for the domed "horns". I made a search light for the back of the cabin from bits and bobs. I also printed a port and starboard nav lamp and glued them in place either side of the front of the cabin, a short length of thin solder looks like the cable in the pics of the real thing. Looks allot better than nothing.
The cabin door is not from the kit. My cabin was quite skewed to port as well as the base all skewiff but you can't see that. I got most of it out but it's not remotely square! I printed up and made the door from bits. The door is a "tight fit" with 2 small neodymium magnets on either side at the bottom holding it in place (they are the ones supposed to hold the hatch down): need access for the receiver which is on a clip I printed and glued where the wheel would be. I drilled a c12mm diameter hole in the middle of the wheelhouse floor for the esc and servo cables to pass through. Figured that was the driest place for the rx. Can't see much of any interior with the tinted glass anyway.
I did try and put an exhaust on the transom but nothing would stick to the plastic -would probably have beroken off so I just left it. I might just paint a small black circle instead.
PS about the kit motor -maybe the manufacturer thought it would be fed from a 1s Li-Po at c3v. Perhaps it would be OK at that. I put that motor in my HA kits pilot boat and on 7.2v, the pilot boat should plane so in my opinion it's not the right motor for this kit at all. Actually, probably an RE 285 would be OK on 6v Ni-cads.
Hope that shares a bit of info / inspiration, it's no way neat and tidy but looks OK from a few feet away as a quick build!
Rich
PS: WOW ...Malwarebytes has not behaved that long for ages, I should update some other pictures while I can.
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Hi RST
I got a kit from the first batch delivered to Hobby-Lobby and the distortions of parts has been minimal, only the floor of the steering house were bad, but I cut it out and that was that. I know that one from my club, did have a lot of distortion of his kit and he did spend some time with a heat-gun, clamps, steel rulers and wire to get it right, as I have not been at the club for more than a year so I don't know the status of his model.
For the windows i have used either Lock-tight superglue added with a toothpick (Small drops) from the inside while the window were in place, with no fume residue on the windows. Or a German product that is a bit more difficult to work with and seems to gone from the market.
For my Billings Phantom wind-shield I used Glue&Glace with good result.
Carsten
...Hi Carsten. I also had 2 weird "soft-spots" on the hull. I was told to leave the hull in the sun for a couple of days (chuckled a bit as there's no UV in Scotland in winter) so I tried to cure them with the UV light on the end of a Bison superglue pen. I got to the point I just shut my eyes and filled the area with more paint as they were only very shallow. Seems to be OK but one day I guess my finger might push through them. To be honest the quality of my parts out the box was not that great -maybe just a bad one but was surprised considering how long they have been making them now? I was going to buy the fishing boat for another quick build -but not after this kit, it's cheap but not that cheap for poorly fitting parts.
Rich
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Hi Carsten,
Have you done any more work on yours? Sorry I hijacked your thread a bit with my photos. The other week I fiddled with mine a bit more. Worked out I could fit some 2mm thick foam sheet under the deck hatch and combined with my cams holding it down it's probably tight enough to seal now. One other thing I noticed was the resin used for printing seems to expand allot with temperature. So when I fitted my hatch originally it was allot warmer than now and had to shave material off since to make it sit right when I fitted the sealing foam. I've just got to work out how to waterproof the canopy glue now -I've been checking on line and I used the same stuff as others but my stuff is just the same as white PVA school glue, not even remotely moisture proof so maybe it was a bad batch.
Richard