Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: GarthT on February 05, 2019, 05:11:40 pm
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I've recently started building this boat, some 50 years after my last build, although I have built some full size canoes in the meantime. The biggest change seems to be the advances in electric power and I'd like some advise regarding a motor. I'd like it to be quick and I'm looking at a brushless installation.
One suggestion is the Mtronik G2 Hydra 30 system. This looks attractive as it claims to be easy to set up. But there is also a bewildering choice from Hobby King and some of these look better value on the surface, and some of them include water cooling. What do people think?
Another question; will I need water cooling? It would be run on a 3s LiPo pack. The hull volume is quite small and there is no ventilation.
Look forward to any suggestions.
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Build one a few years back. I used a 1100KV BL on 2S Lipo and that is just a bit on the low side I will go for 1300-1500KV replacement when i get to it, I did not use water cooling and had no issues with the temperature.
Please not that there are not that much space for 3S lipo due to the height restrictions.
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Hi Tica
Hobbyking have smaller Lipo batteries which are 73 x 33 x 27 mm.
Turnigy 1500mah 3S 25C part No. T1500.3S.25C (weight about 115 grams).
A Prop Drive V2 2836-1800kv(435Watts on 4S) less on 3S.
A 30-32 mm 2 blade prop 1.4 pitch CNC.
Also check out Banggood for model boat parts and radios.
Canabus
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Thanks, Tica and Canabus. Your suggestion sounds good Canabus, and pretty light on the pocket too. What would you suggest for an ESC? I assume water cooling isn't necessary since the motor is an outrunner.
How easy is it to set up these brushless systems? I'm completely new to all this and had thought that If I bought everything from a local model shop (there's one in Oxford not too far away) they might help/advise if I ran into problems. That would preclude HK products as they seem to be mail order only.
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HI Garth
I use Hobbyking car ESCs(HK-45A,60SL and 100A) with program card(HK PROG-CARD).
Mainly because they are small and have an electric fan on top.
No cooling!!!
The 45Amp is only 69grams!!!
If you run into problems that is what this forum is about helping fellow model boats !!!
Ask all the questions and we may have the answers !!!!
Cheaper than paying for mistakes.
I only recommend products I have use.
Canabus
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Hi Canabus
Your suggestions all look excellent value. The Programming card is out of stock at the moment, but I'm not quite ready to make the purchase yet.
A complete newbie question: do the receiver and rudder servo run of the power battery or do they have their own supply? (I need to buy those items too).
Garth
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If you want fast and theres zero air cooling then id advise water cooling , leave the outrunners for what they are designed for not for boats . Makes no sense using brushless motors without water cooling in fast boats .The only time ive used Outrunners in fast boats is when theres a large hull where heat build up isnt an issue ,even then weve had to add fans to keep things cool .There are plenty of good water cooled motors and esc,s on the market and they are not that expensive .
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It depends how you define fast I suppose. Certainly not "fast electric" fast, but more than scale speed.
Garth
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Here mine,https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJiG7iWPV3k (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iJiG7iWPV3k)
on 2s (3s was fun but ran like a race boat lol )
Outrunner 1400 Kv, 28 30 and 30mm 3 bladed prop
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Lovely boat Tim. I hope mine turns out as well. I would like mine to be a bit faster though....
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Depends how you define fast i suppose :}
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Depends how you define fast i suppose :}
Cheers,
It alot faster than in the video, but found on 3s was a bit to much for it but was funny.
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Well, on the advise of a model shop I fitted a brushed motor, a Mtronik M 500. I've got as far as testing in the bath and it seems to have quite a bit of oomph so hopefully it'll be OK.
My next question concerns the prop linkage. On test runs, the grub screws have loosened causing slippage. The motor shaft has a flat and I've now filed a flat on the prop shaft. This has definitely improved things, but should I use some thread lock or other material to stop it working loose? One problem is that when I fit the deck the prop connection is vurtually inaccessible so I want a robust solution.
Any suggestions?
Thanks, Garth