Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Wood Care: => Topic started by: Gazzalene on April 12, 2019, 06:58:36 pm
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Just about to start my first build.
When using ply and balsa is PVA or CA best strength wise?
I am talking mainly about attaching ply bulkheads/formers to hull sides etc.
I was thinking of using CA then run some along the cured join after OR a PVA bead
Like the idea of speed with CA but if its nowhere near as strong I will go PVA
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I used PVA (Titebond 3) to build my Tug hull etc but would use Cascamite Glue next time ...
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Aliphatic glue is the best for wood on wood these days for model making purposes. You can also get Superphatic from Deluxe Materials which is the woodworking equivalent of superglue except that there are no fumes and it is water cleanup. It also penetrates very well into joints.
Colin
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Hi there
in the past I myself have used just bog-standard white PVA glue - but the thing to remember with this glue is it isn't waterproof. So, you must seal it well with either paint or sand n sealer - something along that line. I do use Aliphatic sandable wood glue which is the yellow one on a lot of the builds which I have done.
With balsa wood, plywood you will find that these two glues will glue them well and so will superglue - but - the trouble with superglue is that I don't think it gives good time for adjustment. With some kinds of balsa wood superglue has a reaction and I have even known it to 'smoke' especially with Zap - A - Gap superglue. Where I do use superglue and balsa wood together, is when I am gluing say - Plasticard over the top of balsa wood to make a small structure of some kind, like, say a box or an air vent.
If you have a look on the masterclass builds, you may get some hints and tips of glues and how to do stuff - cos there are some good builds on there.
John
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Aliphatic glue is the best for wood on wood these days for model making purposes. You can also get Superphatic from Deluxe Materials which is the woodworking equivalent of superglue except that there are no fumes and it is water cleanup. It also penetrates very well into joints.
Colin
This is the glue that I use and Colin's comments are spot on. Its not as fast as CA but its extremely strong and the clean up is so easy. This is my glue of choice.
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i use titebond waterproof as a bead, once attached and in place, I spot glue down the edge with superglue and kicker to hold in place. after 24hrs I go back and bead the joints with titebond again. belt and braces. for serious joints, like the stern or bow, I swap out titebond for 24 hr epoxy.
general rule, the quicker it dries the more bittle it is. I had instances on old boats where superglue only joints have sprung open on minor impacts.
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I go along with Colin. Superphatic from Deluxe Materials is good for smaller joints but for the big stuff I swear by their Aliphatic Resin. Use enough of it and clamp overnight!
John
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On this site there is reference to this problem before. Glues are graded fro D1 to D4
Try D4 glue from Toolstation at about £8 a litre and remember that it is a D4 grade glue so is FULLY waterproof when dried. You may get it elsewhere for a lesser price.
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I bought some Phatic at the weekend ,is this waterproof?
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I bought some Phatic at the weekend ,is this waterproof?
That's what it says on the bottle! You shouldn't have any problems but be aware that it does grab quite quickly, not so fast as superglue but close depending on what surfaces you are gluing together.
Colin