Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => The "Black Arts!" ( Electrics & Electronics ) => Topic started by: Keith.E on June 10, 2019, 09:47:53 pm
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I am scratching my head to work out how or what is the best solution to get power into the upper parts of the removable wheelhouse on my assurance tug build.
Not sure weather to use simple plugs that I connect together or if their are other / better ways,, which I'm sure there are ..
I only want to fit some lights inside the wheelhouse and a few running lights, so nothing to complicated.
Any advise gratefully welcome
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Hi it's John V just get yourself a four aa battery holder that will give you 6 volts and fix inside cabin cheers John v
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Just use longer wire ,give your self enough length so you can set the top down on the bench
David
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If all you want is a few LEDs, then these little battery boxes with switch are ideal. They take a CR2305 3 volt coin cell and will run several LEDs.
Barrie
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I have traditionally used 2 pin din plug/ socket & if I want more than one circuit I go to 5pin din plugs/sockets
What is a CR2305? I have seen the boxes for CR2032 but not for CR2305.
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If a lot of wires are involved, DIL (dual-in-line) sockets (for holding integrated circuits) and headers (plugs that pretend to be ICs) work well. Commonly 14 or 16 pin.
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Hi will this help ?
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,9788.msg180256.html#msg180256 (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,9788.msg180256.html#msg180256)
john
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I have traditionally used 2 pin din plug/ socket & if I want more than one circuit I go to 5pin din plugs/sockets
What is a CR2305? I have seen the boxes for CR2032 but not for CR2305.
You're right :-)) it was very early when I posted that %% %% %% %%
Barrie
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Why not fit bent copper contacts on either side of the wheelhouse & corresponding contacts on the deck for automatic connection when the wheelhouse is in place - no wire, no plugs, nothing to get caught or ripped off. It's only going to be a few mA so nothing to arc or burn - all the batteries are in the hull to keep the weight as low down as possible.
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Wow thank you for the many comments
There is certainly plenty of options there that I had not thought of ,
I can see the merits of using just a small separate battery supply in the house but I would like to keep the c of g as low as possible on this build as I know this particular model can be top heavy if not careful due to the amount of white metal parts high up .
I do like the ideas or the brass pins and sockets to transfer the power so I will work along those lines on this occupation I think and see how ok fair .
Many thanks for all your ideas
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well I wanted the roof to be removable but have lights so I came up with this method..fuse from battery b+ &neg soldered to brass strips in the hull...I use 4mm circuit bord contacters soldered into 2 brass tube..i made a non conducting brace to hold the tubes&sontacters to the cabin of the wheel house..the bottom contacter's hit the b+ & neg strips in the hull when wheel house roof is in postion when held by magnets..then the roof has another fabbed conducter,2 brass wires formed into shap with pads solderd on to it to hit contacters..roof light resisters soldered to wire,run magnet wire to smt led's (surface mount) direct off my battery mains,magets hold roof on.....there are indexes so the roof dosent slide around and cause a short but there is a fuse cuz it has shorted once&while when I was in a hurry to put roof on...used smt leds through out boat..the wheel house work lights for those wondering are 5050 led chips(3 separate power&ground/earth to 1 led package) so 3 100ma led's in 3..so they are very bright but I had to step up to 1 watt 5050 smt resister's to handle the heat.rest of my leds I used 1/2 watt 1206 resisters&magnet wire
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A pal was fitting my 8 channel RC switching unit into his boat to be able to individually control lots of different lights in the superstructure - nav lights, cabin lights white, cabin lights red, deck lights, spotlights plus radar scanner motor - faced with the huge number of wires he was asking me about suitable connectors.
As the LEDs and motor could all be run from 5v, I suggested he mount the switching unit in the superstructure where all its outlets are situated and then the only connection from hull to superstructure is a 3 way servo lead from the receiver, which (if suitably long) can be connected/disconnected at the switcher itself. For the 5v LED supply, the switcher unit has provision to solder in a link which connects the 5v from the receiver to the switcher common positive rail (individual channels are switched to 0v)
Www.forge-electronics.co.uk/index.php/boats/8-channel-rc-switch