Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Model Boating => Topic started by: spiderman on July 09, 2019, 08:34:23 pm
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Hi All,
I really hope you don’t mine me jumping in on this thread but I really need some help please.
(Please move to the relevant site if required ?)
It’s been quite a long time since I’ve been on here.
I last converted a Dixie Seaport Tug after finishing a 36 inch Scratch built Clyde Puffer. Everything was then packed up because we were emigrating, but that didn’t work out in the end.
I then got side tracked with r/c cars and crawlers again!!! Now I have decided I must get back into my passion for boats. I will need to live to about 130 to finish what I have planned and in kits I have??? Especially if I keep getting side tracked!
I have decided to finish my Precedent Fairy Huntsman/ Swordsman 31. Fibreglass hulled and 34 inches long.I’m sure you all get fed up with similar questions,But I have spent the last week on and off looking to find out what brushless sensored motor setup I need? I seem only to be able find information on the larger 46 inch version.I want the boat to plan like a real one ie in scale The boat is 2 thirds built and I have just fitted the Rudder and single a Propshaft.Also do I need to fit a cooling system to it? I’m only really used to brushless motors in cars which get plenty of external ventilation so no problem!Any help will be greatMany Thanks For Any Advice In Advance. Kind Regards John
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Good to see you returning to boats and especially to a Fairey Huntsman 31.
For my 1:12 Huntsman 31 I'm going to use a 3548/05 900kV which is nice and torquey and as it can be used with 2 to 4 Lipos it will give plenty of performance.
I'm also building a Swordsman 33 and am going to use a 4250/06 800kV which can be used with 3 to 7 Lipos. This motor is probably too powerful but I don't build light, again wanted plenty of torque and the speed can be limited anyway.
Another reason, for me, going oversize, is that the motor shouldn't run hot and so no need for cooling.
What I'm using for my Huntsman 31 or similar should give you the performance that you want as having the fibre-glassed hull version means it shouldn't be too heavy.
Chris
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Hi Chris,
Many thanks for your quick reply.
Any recommendations of a make and supplier of a 3548/06 900kv motor?
I intend to run it on 2 cell Lipos which I already have.
Good idea being a bit over sized and not having to water cool it.
Regards John
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This brand is popular https://www.overlander.co.uk/tornado-thumper-v3-3548-05-900kv-brushless-outrunner-rc-motor.html (https://www.overlander.co.uk/tornado-thumper-v3-3548-05-900kv-brushless-outrunner-rc-motor.html)
DM
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As per Dave's post I use the Overlander motors. Other good ones are Leopard available from the Component Shop.
Chris
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Thank you both for your suggestions.
Any recommendations of a waterproof esc to go with either of them.
Regards John
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Sorry I should have said I'm thinking of going with the Tornado Thumper V3 3548/05 900kv
John
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HI Spiderman
The recommended ESC is 60 Amp, but the 1250kv would be a better motor.
I am using a Hobbyking car 100Amp ESC with a 3648-1450kv, 3S 580mah Lipo and a 2 blade 40mm prop.
Canabus
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Topic Split from: https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,9791.msg669677.html#msg669677
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T600 brushless.So powerful
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HI Spiderman
The recommended ESC is 60 Amp, but the 1250kv would be a better motor.
I am using a Hobbyking car 100Amp ESC with a 3648-1450kv, 3S 580mah Lipo and a 2 blade 40mm prop.
Canabus
He wants to go at scale or just above speeds, not your supersonic speeds Harry!
Spiderman - Leopard also do a good range of ESCs.
Chris
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Thank you both for your suggestions.
Any recommendations of a waterproof esc to go with either of them.Regards John
I run the 30A version of this ESC in two models and I've just ordered the 60A version for my next one https://www.componentshop.co.uk/60a-marine-v3-waterproof-brushless-motor-speed-controller-esc.html (https://www.componentshop.co.uk/60a-marine-v3-waterproof-brushless-motor-speed-controller-esc.html)
I would recommend it unreservedly.
DaveM
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Hi Everyone,
Many thanks for all your help, Its a bit daunting trying to get one's head around brushless motors etc as in the past Iv'e only ever used brushed motors in boats!
I think I will go with The Tornado Thumper V3 3548/06 900kv coupled with the 60amp marine V3 brushless esc Leopard Hobby as advised by a few of you.
Its great being back into boats and will post some photos of my converted Huntsman when its done.
I will also sort out photos of my Clyde Puffer to post.
Thanks Again Everyone.
Regards John
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Hi Again,
I had a funny feeling I would be back quickly!
Whats the best setup to keep the esc and motor cool?
Now thinking I might have to have a water pumped system but don't know much about them, where to get them from and how to fit them,
Most of my boats in the past have been the slow type!
I'm sure its covered on Mayhem but nothing comes up when I search for them!!!
Do I need a water jacket for the motor? the esc has inlet and outlet pipes.
Any advice will be great.
Thanks again.
John
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John
The water-cooling facility on the ESC is there in case it's needed. It's not mandatory in all situations, especially with a relatively "cool" motor and prop combination. My advice would be to run it with no cooling and see if it gets hot - as opposed to just a bit warm. You can fit a cooling loop afterwards if it proves necessary. You can't fit a water-jacket to an outrunner anyway; you'd need a water-cooled mount.
DaveM
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Hi Dave,
Thanks so much for that.
That's great as I don't want to go flat out all the time just scale planning etc so will do as you say and give it a try.
Told you I don't know much about water cooling but I should have realised that I can't if a water jacket to an out runner !!!!!
Can't wait for the bits to arrive now.
I have a two blade 35 mm prop and a 40 mm prop which do you recommend?
Many Thanks.
John
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If I were you I'd start with the 40mm one. You might even find that a 3-blade 37-40mm bronze prop would be better, but that's best left until the 'fine tuning' stage.
DaveM
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Hi DaveM,
I will do as you suggest and give the 40mm a try first.
I can't believe that the motor from Overlander arrived before lunch today as did the esc from the Component Shop!
Both ordered yesterday at 10.15 am arrived 11.30am next day Excellent Service.
Still have a lot to do but wanted to get all the running gear in before fitting the rear deck and the front roof, as access holes will be a little smaller!!! but once everything is epoxied in place it will be easy to change things if needed?
Again Many Thanks For Your Help.
Regards John
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Never epoxy everything in place. You can never change it afterwards. Best to screw things down for future adjustment if needed.
Basic rule for a model boat.: never install something you cannot remove, change or adjust,
Colin
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Hi Colin,
Many thanks for your concern.
I think I could have worded it a bit better because
I totally agree with you, But the rudder post support, servo mounting, battery tray and the base for fixing the motor mount to cannot be screwed in as its a fiberglass hull.
All the hardware though will be removable as always if necessary?
I agree with your basic rule and when I was building and flying Rc Planes and Gliders 25 years ago the lads there had a basic rule " Get it right first time otherwise you take it home in a carrier bag !!!
Iv'e always taken heed of that and triple check everything before assembling and of course asking others for advice if I'm unsure.
Thanks again.
Kind Regards,
John [size=78%] [/size]
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Hi All,
Firstly thanks for all the input you have given me.
I have now fitted all the running gear and starting on finishing the superstructure etc.
Will put a photo on here of the work so far when I get chance.
I have got some of the decals well some of them, IE:- Union Jack, Ford Stickers and Numbers I'm trying to loosely copy the Ford Speed 707 in the round the UK boat race in 1969.
Do any of you guys know where I can get, acquire three model crew member from? I was thinking of 1/12 scale as its nearly the same???
As Always Many Thanks.
John