Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Any Other Builds => Topic started by: Seaspray on July 16, 2019, 12:25:58 pm
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Just filling in time. So I after falling over it for a few years decided to have a go at building the kit. Contains 390 parts including a choice of engines, Scania or Leyland. I always thought it was AEC that built the engines for the London Routemasters.
I have been following George's full build on YouTube to help find all the problems and there are a few. Also he used Superglue to built his model so I started to use superglue. But after speaking to one of the chaps at Wonderland Model, Edinburgh. I was advised to use the correct type of glue Tamiya Cement. So I switched to the cement and redid the parts that were super glued. I think the model would have fell apart in the years to come if I hadn't
Right I'll get the pictures organised and the build info
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As far as I know the original fitment was either AEC or Leyland. Leyland took over AEC in the early 1960's which was, I think, about in the middle of Routemaster production so a change of engine fitment sounds quite possible.
I understand that a number of different engines were retrofitted so I guess a Scania was possible.
I wonder if they got the right model of Leyland and Scania for the kit or used what was already tooled.
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Tug Fanatic
You got 2 engines choices in the kit I went for the Leyland just sounded right for that era
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OK. here we go a short an sweet build
Six pictures first two are parts in the kit and next four are the build on the Leyland engine.
The seventh picture is the engine fitted in model. As I didn't think of putting the build on Mayhem I wasn't doing many build pictures
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The Scania engine built from the instructions and a part build Leyland engine with the last two pictures fully built and started painting it.
Seems to be more instructions for the Scania engine than the Leyland.
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I switched to Revell Aqua paints to give it a go. Made for the brush and airbrush the latter I had to give up as the acrylic thinners were going for me. So it was back to rattle cans which I find more convent. So half the model airbrushed and half rattle can painted. I had just bought a new compressor airbrush kit.. ouch I also bought the these new type paint brushes but to me I prefer sable also had one of pony hair brush and it was good one
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Part 10 you'll need part C 17 from the kit the floor pan and the drive shaft, air tank,front wheel hubs and steering arm. All these parts are glued into position except the steering arm if you want the front wheels to turn.I removed the hubs so I could paint the wheel arches and other places. Later replaced them and as per instructions with a hot screwdriver pressed down on parts B 22 and B 23 to create a knurl to hold the steering arm C 24 on.
Part 11 parts B 25 front part chassis B 18 rear diff, rear drivshaft, B 21 exhaust glued into position
Image 2562 this is where I redone the kit using Tamiya Cement rather than superglue, also painted the diesel tank black. clamps used to get a good join. Repainted silver acrylic except the rear platform. Items in background being painted'
Hopefully its right so far As didn't intend to put this little build up on Mayhem. Do correct me If I am wrong in this build as I haven't built a plastic kit for 60 years.
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There's a lot more to this model than I thought and I guess it is a welcome distraction from the boats - I might be tempted to try something similar when I finish my current model.
Regards,
Ray.
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H Ray
Yes its different as the parts are already made.
cheers
Martin
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Last posting image 2562 on section 12 these parts are to be glued after the paint dried.
Just for them that don't do plastic kits there is a lot of info in the pictures. The part is numbered in a circle and the spru it is on has a letter next to it and the colour is inside a flag type icon and you need to refer to the colour chart with the kit. At the top of the picture is the stage number next to it is what is required at that time of build ie glue,decal or optional.
Part 13 is the mud flaps to be glued parts J 35, 36 and I 34 2 off and F in the flag is black. The question mark means optional.
Stage 14, 15. Is the Leyland and Scania engine fitting. There is not much difference The Leyland exhaust goes straight into the floor pan. The Scania has a pipe to be connected between engine and floor pan Q 276. E = steel metallic The radiator and inside engine panel glued into position K 39 and B 38 both engines compartments
Signing off foe a few days
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Stage 16, 17 the wheels. are on sprue I x 2 off Went together good and tyres are rubber not plastic as I thought.These were sprayed with the airbrush to keep their details. Colour was purple red with a little clear gloss added.
Stage 18 find the lower floor part on D 48 offered it as a dry fit to floor pan, fit o.k. Will return to this stage for spraying up.
Stage 19 fitted wheels and put this assembly to the side.
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The more I see of this one, the more I like it, and I think you've got the wheel colour correct, though I'm no expert.
Regards,
Ray.
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Ray
Wheel colour is right I try and stick to the colour instructions. I did deviate from a colour change later on I'll point it out
Regards
Seaspray
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Isn't it easier to paint the chassis components as you go along?
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Tug
Pic 2560 shows the two chassis parts. Shows rear chassis is not sprayed underneath part which glues to the pan. The front chassis shows its sprayed side and top underneath is not, where it glues to the chassis. These were reinforced with Tamiya Cement as I didn't want these joins with super glue, hence the claps on at a later stage. The whole underside was repainted including the tank
Pic 2562 Shows parts painted as I went along ( in the background on pegs)
Pic 2573 wheels were assembled then sprayed before fitted to tyre
Many parts were painted on the sprue (see attachments) As I was using that colour and they were that colour. It a personal choice and its all for fun.
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I believe that although they were originally AEC engined, the later Leyland built ones had Leyland engine. However these didn't comply with emission laws in some places so they were re-engined with Scania lumps.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AEC_Routemaster
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trv7v8
Yes that is the story I heard to. There is a MK 1 or MK 2 versions in the kit I think MK 2 is after 1992 hence the Scania engine option.
cheers
Seaspray
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Cool! What scale is this?
I collected dinky and corgi buses upto about age 16 and bought some more a few years back. Mainly AEC Routemasters but also Leyland Atlanteans and AEC Merlins. Was going to leave them to my lads when Im pushing up daisies but they dont want them so will be looking to sell in a few years time, no doubt to fund a new boat or heli!
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justboatonic
The model is 1/24 scale and size is 38.1 x 10.8 x 17.8 cm. 599 g in weight. The kit also has a very big decal set and if you screw it up they are available as replacements for £12 including postage.
cheers
Seaspray
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Returning to stage 18 but before we continue did I say that all the plastic parts are sprayed with Halfords Plastic Primer. A very thin coat is all that is used and is compatible with Revell Aqua and Halford's rattle cans.
Stage 18 The lower floor D 48 sits on the floor pan and do a dry fit first.There is a choice of colours to choose from. Hence the colours with a ? which means options. When the time comes after painting it, glue it well and lightly clamp it. I originally chose light tanish brown for the walkway. Looked at it and decided to go for option N gray although this was marked up as outer floor colour where seats are I also did the rear platform gray. (modeller's licence ) The outer floor section and both decks, 4 side panels were painted purple red with a strip of silver paint along the top edge and also the heater flood ducts
Pictures are 1,2 and 3 are masking up and sprayed pic 3 is having the walkway hand painted in. pic 4 upper deck sprayed and pic 5 dry fitting rear seat as this needed a little sanding before painted
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Hi
I am just going off line with this as I think it just my be of some interest, a very good late friend of mine from Glasgow said the the buses in Glasgow at one time had a coloured line around the dividing line between the bottom deck and the top deck, he said that this was so the any one that could not read could still use the buses, as all the routs were colour coded, all they had to do then was look for the bus with the correct coloured line for there rout to get home or to work.
I do not know if there is any truth in this or not.
Fred
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Hi
I am just going off line with this as I think it just my be of some interest, a very good late friend of mine from Glasgow said the the buses in Glasgow at one time had a coloured line around the dividing line between the bottom deck and the top deck, he said that this was so the any one that could not read could still use the buses, as all the routs were colour coded, all they had to do then was look for the bus with the correct coloured line for there rout to get home or to work.
I do not know if there is any truth in this or not.
Fred
They now paint the whole bus different colours around here depending on the route & advertise them as "the pink line" etc. It works fine until a bus has a problem and has to be replaced...................... I don't think they have spare route coloured buses.
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The double deckers belonging to Western SMT in Ayrshire and Central SMT Glasgow and north wards always had a yellow ( cream )strip round them just like some Routemasters. They were always mostly red till the single decker came along with more yellow (cream) in the lower side panels. Never heard of the colour code for non readers. Single deckers in Guelph Ont. in the sixties they used red and yellow ( cream) seemed a common colour scheme
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I haven't any photos of the build on stages 20 to 26 so I've put up the assembly instructions
Stage 20 cab parts window, seat, electric box and back wall decal no 6 on seat couldn't get it to fit so painted it black
Stage 21 the dash instrument panel with No 5 decal on speedo gauge Note indicator switch K 61
Stage 22 cab floor a little fire extinguisher with decal No No 3 fitted actually had writing on it.
Stage 23 steering wheel and it's parts
Stage 24 cab n/s wall part A. roof part B o/s wall part C and part D front. Decal No 66 Part A. and decal No 4 part B
Stage 25 steering wheel, dash and hand brake assemblies.
Stage 26 Cab walls assembly this was tricky so out came the clamps for the first and many times
I'll return to stage 27
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Stage 27 photo is above this post. This is the section between the driver's cab and engine housing L 20 you'll see a hole is to be bored for the Scania engine piping
Stage 28 this is sprayed ( back to rattle cans) red on the top half and silver on the bottom. Piping K 71 glued into position after paint has dried . A line of red paint denoting the two cab windows onto N 274. Then glued into place.
Stage 29 This is now glued onto cab side.
Stage 30 This part K 72 has to be drilled to suit the engine of your choice. Leyland was mine so it 3 holes drilled.Window frame painted black.
Stage 31 Parts to fit for the Leyland engine but before this part sprayed Peugeot cherry red. When dry parts A 73 A 74 piping spray silver and glued in place. M 123 side light lens M 54 window glued in place. I use Revell Contacta Clear for all the widows and lens.
Stage 32 Scania engine similar colour scheme difference is parts Q 268 and Q 267 piping Again cheery red and on both Scania and Leyland along bottom of window painted silver .
Pictures of finished part just window and lens to fit. The red paint blotch on stage 32 pic is a colour test and silver on the red can be removed with a tooth pick
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Firstly I did a dry fit of the cab, panel and 1/4 roof part. It was a reasonable fit.
Stage 33 J 76 the bulkhead between the cab/ engine and passenger area. Rails G 78, decal No 8 glass panel N 77 over information fitted.
Stage 34 Part K 72 from stage 31 glued on to part J 76 stage 33
Stage 35 Cab glued to part J 76
Stage 36 Part from stage 35 glued to chassis. I did a semi dry fit here as I heard one or two things about this part fitting correctly. Just tacked it to to chassis and put a weight on it and slide into position.
Gently removed cab and panel to fit the passenger floor in stage 18 which I will return to.
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Now that the cab / bulkhead is right we'll return to fitting the lower passenger floor
Stage 18 floor was sprayed sometime ago and is offered into position. Looks good so it was glued into position using clamps just a gentle pressure on the parts not to distort it. Leave to set for a day or two.
Stage 37 - 38 The engines firstly the Leyland had part A 79 cut to size and fitted to pipe on side of cab wall and water pump. The Scania parts Q 270 and Q 269 which the latter requires filing a 1 mm off and this part should be glued into top of rocker box and water pump. I used super glue on the Leyland parts as I didn't want to ruin the paint work .
Now here we go. Stages 39 - 42 the seats. You'll notice in the pictures there is left and right hand seats. Notice which side their legs are fitted on thats a clue. Some have upright hand rails (H 83, H 86) arrowed. Also careful about using the correct numbered seat on the right floor and place. A difference in their lower frame part which mates with the side passenger wall supports. Stage 39 H 83 and stage 40 H 82 / G 82 are similar. in red . Where as stage 41 H 85 / G 85 stage 42 H 86 are different in green. The last picture is the lower deck left and right seats laid out
Hope I've got this right
I'll skip a few stages to let you see pictures the places the seat are fitted on both decks
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Previously you seen the frames description
Going back to stages 39- 40 the seat parts are I 80 and stages 41- 42 seats parts I 84 making a total of 32 complete seats. The legs part is L 81. I seem to have an extra seat in last picture prior to getting it's decal fitted. You have to jump to stage 46 to get info on the decal numbers. Will be in next reply. From the little experience I have of plastic kits it seems to be the done thing.
There are 2 sprees off G,H, and I
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That last photo helps to visualise the actual seats - makes it a lot easier to understand what is shown on the plan page.
Thanks for the update :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Ray
No problem can't beat a picture
cheers :-))
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The seats were primed with plastic primer ( rattle can ) then sprayed with the airbrush. I had to use the airbrush to get the right colour as it was two colours mixed code M = fiery red purple red. they looked good. Then the decals were cutout and placed in their groups. and put on the correct seat.
Stage 46 shows the layout of the seats and the o/s side wall of the lower passenger compartment to be fitted. It also lets you know the number of the decal on the seats and where they get glued to the wall and floor. The stage 41 ans 42 big bold numbers pointing to the seat's stage where they were built. As I said there is a slight difference of the fitting underneath which is compatible to their wall mounting.
Stage 47 still on the lower deck the n/s wall is glued into position and the seats from stage 39 40 plus the two rear benches over the wheel arches fitted parts K 89 K 90 Clamp time again.
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I've never really been into plastic models.......but between you and kpnuts I think I'm being converted. That looks so nice and very realistic too. That's a lovely job you're doing :-))
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Mark T
Its not my thing but it needed built and was a something to do between my boat builds Do have a go, a simple kit to start with. Loads of manufactures and kits out there to choose from. To me the downside is that they're static but with a little ingenuity they could become radio controlled
Cheers :-))
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Returning to stage 47 all the seats and n/s side wall glued in position and part E 96 and at stage 46 E 97 fitted behind rear benches . This supports the roof and partitions between passenger area and on /off platform.
Stages 43,44, and 45 assembled glass window and decals fitted where required. Stage 45 I went for the fire extinguisher J 104 /J 105 than the little door J 103 it looked better.
Stage 50, 51, 52 shows where the parts from stages 43, 44 and 45 are assembled Earlier I did a dry fit looks like clampy time again.
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Stage 55 and 56 building the stairs. After the dry fit in previous reply everything was stripped down into sprayable parts. Including the outer and inner rear back body panels and the bonnet. Last picture is the stairs clamped into their position bit of a job here as I didn't want to clamp too much one way and not the other. Till looked good right.
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Stage 48 rail P 125 and decal No 13 fitted. this part of the bus inside back panel was a change of colour to cherry red.
Stage 57 the rear inside back panels glued in position a little sanding here and there and a simple clamp to hold the corner in place side part L 118 rear panel K 117
Stage 53 The top roof corner support over engine area L 126 spray up and handle grip trimmed and fitted.
Stage 54 part L 128 sprayed with decal No 45 and glass N 129 handle I 122 fitted. This parts glues to part L 126 in stage 53 These parts glue to cab side and front of roof.
Back track to stage 49 roof hand rails G 124, light M 151, handle I 122 glued in. Roof was to be white I chose Beige with touch white on the light bulbs and little destination board handle painted red.
Stage 58 Roof glued in position, notice gap circled . Clamps out to get it to fit,
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Enjoying watching your build been thinking of getting one myself.Dont know if it's possible to paint it green as the buses we had here when I was a child was green the decals could be the problem,but don't actually think they was routemasters.
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Captain Bligh
There was green Routemasters in London RMC Routemaster Country 1464 and their livery was slightly different. Although this is easy sorted as there are people who make decals Chris Gillespie on here. Some modellers have painted the Revell bus green and they would know about livery. Check out Youtube. Green buses in many ares as well.
Cheers
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Stage 59 building the top deck. Note the decal No 24 on the rear seat L 131 ( 2 air vents ) and the front panel. L 132 decals No 19-21c. Next picture shows the parts same as the lower deck and sprayed in the correct colour. I would give this a day or two to cure as once its in the bus you won't be able to get to it to repair.
Stage 60 placement of the correct seats in the correct position. Again bold numbers refer to the their build stage this lets you know correct seat in right place.. Also fit P 136 rail at the rear seat to hand rail and cut 3 mm off the upright rail on the n/s front. This will jam on the roof if you don't trim it. P 135 front rail to fit as well. Next two pictures show the build and let it cure for day or two. See the arrows on side of second picture these to be trimmed off to make a smooth outer edge to mate with the main outside panels L 144 / K 139 in build 74. Once its fitted in the model there is no way to get to it to repair it. I looked ahead and painted parts while on the sprue that would be difficult when fitted on model.
Stage 61 fitting the top deck to the roof of lower deck. Careful alignment here as I moved it about on a dry fit cause the instructions weren't too clear IE there was only two arrows as a guide. A suck it an see job. It does show you to trim the sides on this picture. I'll show some pictures of the problems of getting that top deck in the right place on next reply. What a job !!!
Jumped to stage 62 the bonnet ( the hood ) L 141 and parts K 142/ 143 and decal 65 to fit. No mention of decal 65 till stage 90. I sprayed it cherry red as the rest of the model didn't bother to paint the bonnet lock black as its rarely seen. There was no pre drilled hole for the little handle K 211 so I drilled a 0.5 mm hole painted the handle silver and glued it placed decals No 46, 47, found decals numbers at stage 82 decal 65 fitted fitted. Motto look and read ahead no written instruction in this kit other than paint colour and symbols used.
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First picture is from stage 49 this is the roof of the lower deck has since been glued into place called for it to be white I went for beige, forgot to put up picture. Also some pictures of the problem of getting the roof into the correct position. Luckily I did get it near enough in the right place. It has slots it fitted into but moved about 3 mm forward and back, making it hard to locate true position. Anyway I opted to dry fit the front section of the the model part no T 145 and rear inner part J 150/ J 154 this helped.
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You'll notice that I didn't fit part no P 120 in stage 57 the pole on the platform.I thought it would get broken, it would have.
Stage 64 fit P 138 on left handside of stairs Stage 65 fit part P 137 on right hand side to the wall
Stage 63 fit and glue part L 146 to inside of roof on part T 145. I painted this beige. Bore holes for the advertising boarding edging. Paint inside window frames dark gray
Next picture in the holes bored on the rear roof outer section
Stage 72 Here is the plan for holes on parts K 139 L 144 to be drilled on the side panels. I think I used 0.4 mm drill. The window frames sprayed dark gray.
Stage 80 parts L 182, L 185 and I 183, I 184 fitted.
Stage 81 parts K 202-204, L 205, I 206 fitted
Last picture work in progress. I don't stick to the build sequences as it saves time.
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May I ask you on your red paint?
Red, white and yellow is my nemesis. I switched to revell acrylic red for a few inches of build where everything else defeated me. From the bottle it was as deep and thick as emulsion -I brush painted on but it dried as clear as pink varnish -and that was over a red base layer, blood red in the sink on cleaning brush. Committed to it, it took about another 5 brush coats before anything remotely red showed up but detail lost etc. Revell acrylic is so thick!!!!! I normally swear by Tamiya acrylics for airbrushing -except for red, yellow and white but they're all useless. What are you using as a primer and how are you diluting the red -or are you airbrushing like, 20-30 coats of red like the model railways guys say before you come close to anything opaque?
Cheers,
Rich
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RST
Hi Rich I kinda gave up I wee while ago on brush painting. Tamiya was too quick in drying at times the brush was sticking to the paint being painted on the model. Lately I saw on YouTube that you paint on to the wet paint not from it. Humbrol as I said on here, it is like painting milk their white. Their red no 19 has a little more thickness and gray is the best for covering that is why I chose it for the central passage ways and the platform. I am not a Tamiya fan nor have I airbrushed it. Now for the bus, I too decided to go for Revell Aqua paint as I had a good look at the paint info on the leaflet. A good few colours were a mixture of various paints at a certain percentage, plus an addition of gloss at times. I did notice the added gloss does work, amazed !!!. Yes I did airbrush the aqua purple red colour on the wheels to retain the details and on the lower and top deck floors I= purple red silky-matt clear gloss which gave a good finish. I follow the correct mixture all times. This was first time I used the airbrush and found it slow going, many coats needed compared to Halford's rattle cans, which can be in certain places put too much spray on the model. See build when I get to the windows fitting. Maybe a nozzle and or jet change on the airbrush would give quicker thicker coats for you. I don't thick 20-30 coats is required for any covering unless it too thinned.
I added Tamiya thinners ( store bought ) to the aqua paint in the airbrush to the right thinness. it should just trickle down the edge of the mixing cup. Did a trail spray on white paper till it looked right shade. White paper was used as I primed the model's plastic with Halford's Plastic Primer white it gives a nice light top colour but leave for 24 hours. Yes I found Aqua little thicker from the pot but still needs a few coats. Boy do I miss the enamel paints of yesteryear. I did buy yellow for the band around the bus but after trials on a spare piece of plastic from the kit I said no. I used sticky yellow vinyl 3 mm thick supported at the bends with Zap super glue. The seats were airbrushed M=fiery red, silky-matt purple red, silky-matt this gave a nice orange/ brown colour. I only used Revell's Aqua on the inside parts of the model and changed to Halford's Peugeot Cherry red on the outside and half way up the stairs. Its not far from the original colour and I think it looks better. Did I mention that I gave all the inside painted parts a spray of Chestnut gloss lacquer. I have now mixed up my own acrylic thinners but haven't tried it yet. Hope I've covered all bases here.
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The outer body parts were sprayed cherry red. I think it is better looking than that purple red
Second picture painted the wheel arches black topped with clear gloss which worked a treat.
Stage 66 part R 140 the driver's cab decal no 43 and radiator grill and part P 161 glued into position after being painted off model.Headlights M 160 and sidelight glasses M 123 fitted after their rims were painted silver. Didn't fit the windows parts N 157 158 all windows fitted last stage. Inside of cab painted black. AEC decal fitted
Stage 67 part L 147 out body panel, parts 148 3 off paint with a wash red and parts M 149 2 off painted orange wash. I don't spend money on washes just pick a little paint from pot and on a piece of cardboard stroke the brush till its almost got no paint on it, then smear the part.
Stage 69 part J 154 glued to part J 150 also glue in ceiling light part M 151 and decal No 22 the bell push button.
Stage 70 looking inside parts from stage 69 fit parts M 151 ceiling light, P 201 rod opens locks on emergency window escape. K 152 outer rim of mirror P 153 insert and decal 23 mirror glass.
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Stage 68 front top section decals 60, 63. 70 to fit and then plastic covers N 164, 165, 166 inserted using Revell's Clear Contact. I didn't fit windows N 162, 163 as I said earlier there fitted last.
Picture 2 The decals fitted good on the front section.
Stage 71 rear top section decal 49 on rear window stating emergency exit. Decals 62, 64 route and destination information. Pots of trouble with the decals as they needed to be trimmed to size. Plastic covers N 187- 189 fitted. N 190 fitted end of build, can't remember what decal 25 was. Holes to be drilled for advertising board edging seen earlier in build.
Picture 4, 5, 6. These decals did not fit well and lost some.Trimmed them to fit and painted the decal area black as the decal would have red showing where parts were ruined. Waited till decal dried then trimmed it.
Picture 7 once the cover was on this area look alright.
Picture 8 all windows fitted and decals but left out lower window on rear lower section. I did fit the front top windows later I had to remove them. I good thing I used clear contact rather than super as they eased out undamaged. I cleaned the glue off with Meths. Scrapped the glue off the window insert and touched it up with a brush. To me the decals were very thin hence the damage and loss. I have ordered a complete set of decal from Revell, expected to take 30 days to arrive.
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First picture everthing is placed out for next stage
Stage 73 top deck front part T 145, n/s panel part L 144, o/s panel K 139 and rear lower panel L 147 to glue into their positions. Window frames inside painted gray 0. Didn't do the black B line around frame too difficult but I did paint around the the outside of frames the same colour as the passenger interior, the gray plastic colour was noticeable. Next picture scraped off paint where glue joints would be. Next picture o/s panel glued into place and clamped . The rear tail section was next glued to glue in place. I left the drivers cab till later because of the clamping needed
Stage 75 I knew I was going to have trouble with gaps from now on so I done a dry fit of part J 145 previously glued to part
J 150 stage 70. remove it and fitted n/s panel and clamped onto correct position.
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Still stage 73 the driver's cab just fell into position, so I thought.
Picture 1 you can see the parts that are just a little out.
Picture 2, 3 first attempt at getting it square then another try at different angles that worked a treat.
Picture 4 when all is set and dry the front top deck was put into it's place, no bother just two clothes pegs to make sure glued surfaces were mated
Picture 5 trouble again rear top deck par S 155 has a gap caused by a high part where my finger is.
Pictures 5, 6, 7 and 8 had to sand the inner part J 154/ J 150 to allow the outer part S 155 close the gap. This area was sanded till I got a good fit or near enough it, then glued the part.
Picture 9 manage to loose the gaps on both sides.
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I've covered most of the stages now and we have the front and rear parts of the upper deck glued into place. The roof picture 2 hmm I can recommend that you fit the roof into the rear section first then fit and glue the front section in place. It was a very tight fit to get roof on as you can see from picture. I manage it eventually but would have done it with the front part still to glue in place, had a know this problem. Had some of Barry's strip and used that for lining around the model. Fitted the glass and wiper on the driver's cab. With all that clamping a ended up with a gap on the rear section, which I glued a piece of Evergreen styrene into it and then sprayed it. Last picture I touched up the platform and added a dark gray edge. The last picture shows the gap hidden by the styrene. The back end and corner section was resprayed later.
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Stage 76 n/s windows had no trouble this side fitting them. One or two needed a little of their edges sanded but I think if I wasn't too heavy with the rattle can spraying, they would have fell in place. Again I used Revell's Clear Contact glue.Sorry but to me its not clear.
Picture 2 shows the windows laid out in order they get fitted. Picture 3, 4. this is how some of the windows came off the sprue and needed sanded. Hindsight I would remove the window sprues from the kit and wrapped them in a piece of cloth. I think being lifted in and out of the box did contribute to them getting scratched.
Stage 77 o/s windows most of them with a little sanding here and there went into their frames. I big problem was window N 195 the emergency escape window. I could not get it to fit as there was an obstruction at the bottom of the frame, see top red circle. Had I seen this before spraying I would have used a craft knife to remove it. Also the window N 195 has a raise simulated catch on the inside this didn't help either. See lower red circled window. Next picture lets you see how it broke by trying to ease it in, so I made another one with a little bit cut out to get it in place.
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Stages 78, 79 window vents to be fitted. They were painted silver on the their edging any paint on windows was easy removed by a tooth pick. Easy to put in place, nice tight fit. Picture 3 on going window fitting.
Stage 80, 81 edging for advertising area, have covered this previous.
Stage 82 n/s part no 1 127 handle to reach up to the change route and destination board. to be trimmed painted silver. Part no N 180 wing mirror outer part painted black with orange centre. Went for this style as it looks better. decal 50 bus I.D RML 2273 and decals 46, 47 instructions to open bonnet ( hood)K 159 wiper
Stage 83 o/s C 199 handles to aid driver into cab panted silver K 200 door handle to close and shut cab door. Parts painted silver. N 207 indicator again black outside with orange centre. P 198 diesel tank cap painted silver Decal 55 a black strip along cab step This decal was torn so I painted this area black. and decal 56 Fuel tank information.
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Stage 87 part P 156 fog light glue N 75 lens into position and paint silver
Stage 88 from stage 87 glue fog light into place also parts L 32, L 33 rail glued to outer chassis beams.
Next 2 pictures o/s decal No 72 The British Museum and decal 67 n/s Jacob's Cream Cracker trimmed to fit used Revell's Decal Soft to set.
Last 2 pictures I attempted to make a display case from Acrylic which was not that great, will do better next time.
Job done.
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Goods news by email today. My order for a replacement decal set is on the way. They were ordered on the 6 th July but did say it could take 30 days or more. Revell good as their word. I'll now fit the lost or torn decals on to the model.
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Lovely job :-))
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tigerttiger Ta Finally get to finished it, will look a lot better with all the decals on especially London Transport on the side.
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Finally got the decal set and fitted the decals damaged which are. The "London Transport" decal on the n/s and the "Rod Stewart Musical" advert on the rear o/s corner. Last but least the "Emergency Exit" sign on the rear window.
I will make an other display case using a silicon base adhesive. I used Weld On 4SC and got 6 sheets on health and safety of the product. I was a bit iffy about using it but did and didn't make a good job of the display case. This stuff would melt the hairs in your nose
Job done for sure...