Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: zooma on October 11, 2019, 10:57:05 pm
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I am about to start building my second Remora model - I built the first one from the free plans in the December 1964 Model Maker magazine.
The first one was built and taken to Exmouth with me when I got married and then followed us to Sticklepath (Barnstaple) a few years later.
Unfortunately when a job change moved me and my young family up north a few years later, lots of thing had to be given away due to a lack of space (and no doubt partly due to my modelling hobby) and my prized Remora boat complete with an OS 21 marine engine were given away (along with my Suzie Q!) to a young family opposite!
The boat was painted by myself in an unlikely orange and yellow colour scheme (!), and of all the things I had to part with or leave behind, this particular model boat was the one thing I regretted and missed the most!
The chances of it still surviving in the North Devon area are so slim as to be non existent, so my winter project for this year will be to start making some paper templates and start building a long overdue replacement.
Colours used in the 1960's and 70's may not be to todays taste, so the new Remora may not be painted in the same yellow and orange colours that I thought look so "cool" at the time - if you can see a copy of the Model Maker cover concerned - substitute the white for yellow and the red for orange and you will be getting close to my old "pride and joy".
Does anyone know if a glass fibre hull is available for the Remora by any chance?
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Here's a link to some interesting articles - hope it helps you in some way :-)
https://www.modelboats.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=83121&p=15
Regards,
Ray.
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Thanks Ray,
The link to the free full size download plans and the original article pages from Model Maker 1964 will be valuable for some and is very interesting to see.
Fortunately I still have the original magazine complete with the original free plans that I built my first Remora from back in the 1960's, and I have been able to keep them both in good condition so I can use them again.
Having said that, if anyone made a fibre glass hull I would love to buy one as it would save a lot of time - even though building from plan with traditional materials is very satisfying I would like to get a Remora back on the water a little quicker if possible!
Unlike my first Remora that was powered by an OS marine engine, this one will be electric powered.
I would like to find a good combination of motor and prop with LiPo power packs to give a good crisp performance - maybe not as wild as my Blackjack 29 or Alpha 1000 - but even that may be a possibility as I remember the hull (with suitable spray rails added) was more than capable of handling the ic power and could probably cope with a fast electric installation very well!
......not bad for a boat that was originally designed as a "steering model" !
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I've got a remora
Mine is fitted with 3528- 1250kv motor turning a standard 40mm plastic prop on 3s lipos 3000ma
The esc is a 40amp aircraft one.
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I've got a remora
Mine is fitted with 3528- 1250kv motor turning a standard 40mm plastic prop on 3s lipos 3000ma
The esc is a 40amp aircraft one.
Thanks for the info :-))
My guess is with a 3 cell LiPo it will be quite brisk !
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i built a remora 12 months ago,out of light ply rather than balsa with a glass fibre outer skin on the hull bottom,
fitted 3 extra rails on either side of the hull centre line,
Would liked to have gone I/C but there not allowed on our lake [ silly ]
tried a couple of brushless motors 1000 kv 300 watts 40 mm sports pitch props ,
Boat was quite nippy but not fast enough,bought a 1700 kv 650 watt water cooled brushless from Dave Marles of Prestwich
models,60 amp speed controller and a 35x prop,very fast ,
still trying different lipos,
I used to have a MFA Spearfish with a KB 40 went very well indeed but I think the Remora is just as fast and turns better without slowing down
, hope this helps ,Vic Smeed designed some great models the Remora being one of the best,
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Thanks Ray,
The link to the free full size download plans and the original article pages from Model Maker 1964 will be valuable for some and is very interesting to see.
Fortunately I still have the original magazine complete with the original free plans that I built my first Remora from back in the 1960's, and I have been able to keep them both in good condition so I can use them again.........................
Was the original article only the two pages on the link? It seems to finish in an odd place.
https://www.modelboats.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=83121&p=15
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The original Remora design shows an over-sized rudder that was designed to slow the boat slightly as it entered a turn (it was designed as a "steering model") - but I am not sure if "steering events" are seen these days?
With a more conventional size and shape rudder it probably steers without slowing when entering a turn? I am going to fit a standard commercial rudder to mine to start with and see how it goes.
I was tempted to strengthen the transom and fit a flexi-shaft with an out-drive and off-set rudder etc, but I decided to keep it more or less "original" as I wanted to replicate my first model, but with electric power this time as we are not allowed to use i.c. engines on our club lake either.
I have cut my bulkheads from some scrap 1/8" ply and have used pairs of 1/8 x 1/4 obechie laminated together to make the 1/4 x 1/4 stringers and to date I have only just fitted the two bottom skins.
Once I have trimmed these back I will sort-out a motor and mount while everything is still visible from the side so I can align them with the prop shaft. I had a long stainless steel prop shaft (Perkins type) laying around in my shed for years, so I cut it down to size. I have pressed the bearing back into the cut end of the tube and now I need to shorten and re-thread the inners shaft.
As the scrap ply that I have used is "not the best" I may well make a second Remora later using better quality wood - this won't take anything like so long to build as I will have all of my "cereal box" templates already and won't have to make them again - but I want to complete and run this one first to see how it performs as I may like to make some small mods on the second model.
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Was the original article only the two pages on the link? It seems to finish in an odd place.
https://www.modelboats.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=83121&p=15 (https://www.modelboats.co.uk/forums/postings.asp?th=83121&p=15)
Yes, it only had a two page write-up, and it does end in an odd way with a description of the suggested rudder blade trim.
I have a well used (maybe just a literal scruffy!) example of the original magazine to refer to and it does end with "......by taking a strip off both fore and after edges", so that is the end of the magazine article.
I don't have a copy of the next issue (January 1965) but they usually say "to be continued" if there is any more to follow, but it does not say this so I think the article ends as shown on page 559 .
There is enough information to build the model OK (as I am finding out for the second time around) - but if anyone does have a copy of the January 1965 Model Maker & Model Boats magazine, it would be interesting to find out if there is a "follow-up" article inside about the Remora.
Bob.
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No nothing in the January issue.. <:(
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No nothing in the January issue.. <:(
Thanks for letting us know!
Bob.
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Progress to date on my Remora build includes fitting the 1/16 ply bottom skins and carving and shaping the balsa block lower bows. I have also made a stand to hold the hull securely as I make further progress with the next part of the build.
I have bought a water-cooled motor mount online and a Turnigy D2836/8 1100KV motor to fit it, and although the motor looks a little small and "puny" compared to the size of the boat, I remembered when I was asked to "drive" a visitors large 1/24 scale Perkasa at the clubs lake earlier this year as it was "a little too fast" for owner to run at speed comfortably!
The Perkasa was heavy to lift, but was very fast and lovely to steer when it was 'flat-out" and when I eventually had to bring it back to shore (due to the LiPo cells running low) I was surprised to see a pair of these same 1100KV motors inside and that they were so capable of shoving this large hull along at such a rapid pace.
Having said that, this motor still looks a little "small" in my Remora hull and as the same mount will also take a slightly bigger motor I am going to fit a Turnigy D3536/6 1250KV motor - mainly because it "looks right".
I don't know much (nothing really) about how to understand the power outputs of these out-runner motors ( I am a fast two stroke man really) so I would appreciate any helpful input regarding my choice of motor and a suggested prop size that would suite it.........and if anyone can explain (in nice simple terms) what the various numbers mean that these motors are identified by, it would be nice to learn and gain a little knowledge about these "new fangled" brushless motors!
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Here are a couple of photos of my Remora
The motor is mounted directly onto the propshaft tube with the brass flange, there is a water cooling jacket that I fitted in case it was needed but the moter does not get hot atall so I never connected it up.
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GLAD THE BUILD IS COMING ON.
REFERANCE YOUR COMENT ON BRUSHLESS POWER OUT PUT.
AS A EX MULTI RACER FROM THE MID 70S I ONLY WENT ELECTRIC 18 MONTHS AGO
750 WATTS = 1 H0RSE POWER ,ABOUT THE SAME AS A 40 SIZE GLOW ENGINE
NOT A ROSSI OR OPS ETC .THE WAY I WORK THINGS THE REMORA WAS DESGINED AS A FAST STEARING BOAT
THE ENGINE SHOWN IN THE ARTICLE IS A OS 20 PUTTING OUT 1/4 HORSE POWER AT APPROX 11000 RPM
ON A 35 M/M PROP. COMPARE THAT TO A BRUSHLESS MOTOR 375 WATTS ON 11.1 VOLT LIPO 1000 KV PRODUCING MORE TORQUE
THAN A OS 20, MY CHOICE OF PROP STARTS WITH ONE THE SAME DIAMETER AS THE MOTOR CASING A 35 X OR EVEN A 40X.
BUT THE MORE CURRANT THE MOTOR DRAWS THE SHORTER THE RUN TIME.
THIS SET UP WILL GIVE APPROX 1/2 HORSE POWER AT 11100 RPM ,FAR MORE THAT THE OS 20.
I HOPE THE TRUE EXPERTS ON HERE WILL CORRECT ME.
WORKS FOR ME ,IF IT BLOWS FUSES 10 AMP THE PROP MIGHT BE TO BIG OR TO COURSE A PITCH.
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Hi Gordon,
It sounds like we will have at least two Remora's running in Lancashire in 2020 - I wonder how many more there are lurking about in the county?
Perhaps it would be possible to get them all together one day as a tribute to Vic Smeed - and maybe some of his other designs from a similar time period such as Suzi Q from the April 1965 Model Maker plan (my next project!).
I am in Rossendale and sail on the Southport lake - where abouts in Lancashire are you?
Bob.
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Here are a couple of photos of my Remora
The motor is mounted directly onto the propshaft tube with the brass flange, there is a water cooling jacket that I fitted in case it was needed but the moter does not get hot atall so I never connected it up.
Hi Leaky!
Nice to see another Remora (the more the better!).
I like your "direct drive" motor/shaft set-up, it looks really neat and tidy with no need for a separate motor mount.
Mine will be a bit more "traditional" with a Huco style coupling (at least to start with) and an adjustable type water cooled mounting of the type seen on the Bay for "not a lot" of cash!
Of the three Remoras mentioned so far, it seems like mine will have the lowest power motor, but I will see how it runs and be prepared to upgrade the motor if it needs a boost at a later date!
Bob.
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Hi zooma
You were wondering if there was anyone else running a Remora, I run an ic powered version with a 46 glow engine.
I also used to run one back in the 60s with a Merco 35, also had a Pirana would like to build another but have a Sir Lancelot
on the bench at moment :-))
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Hi zooma
You were wondering if there was anyone else running a Remora, I run an ic powered version with a 46 glow engine.
I also used to run one back in the 60s with a Merco 35, also had a Pirana would like to build another but have a Sir Lancelot
on the bench at moment :-))
Hello Madboats,
North Yorkshire is not so far from Rossendale (and although it is in Lancashire) we could soon get enough potential Remora owners to form a Remora Revival owners club %%
The Piranha was another classic design that we used to run in the 60's at my home club in Bath on the River Avon and the Avon and Kennett Canal. I also entered a Swordsman in one of the first off-shore competitions (round one was in Torquay) with a twin plug Merco 61 for power and my radio was made by Launch-Link (made by Radio Link.
On that day and at that event ED launched their "Krack-a Long" design powered by their 5cc Viking marine diesel engine - and it did quite well!
Stay in touch and let me know when you get started on your new Remora!
Bob.
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Hi Bob.
Your latest post threw up some names from the past firstly Launch Link one of the first multi radio produced for us boaters by Flight Link Control
I had a lot of bother with mine the amps for the servos were built into the rx this made the servos a lot smaller than other makes which was a plus.
I used to put the radio into a lunch box so I could swap it from boat to boat this ment having to bend the servos leads which damaged the leads they were
not like the type of wire we used today so it was always being sent of for repair,gave up in the end and got a Sregbrock sport.with push pull servos.
The Krack a Long was the other name from the past I don't know if you remember but you could get this in to versions hull only or a full kit.
I got the hull only but built the kit for a fellow member.I also run a swordsman built from a plan powered by a Just Engines 46 glow engine.
We used to to regattas back in the 60s before multi racing came along the format was steering event in the morning and a speed event in the afternoon
dose that ring any with you?Keep the faith :-))
Regards madboats
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Quick note - Launch Link was made by Flight Link. Quirky stuff but the stick units and servos, with Swiss motors and all-metal gears, were a revelation. It's a shame they were introduced at more or less the same time as the Futaba Digimax 4, which swept away most of the competition. RCS, Sprengbrook, Skyleader, Waltron, Remcon, Horizon - all killed off by Japanese products. These days it's the ROC killing off Japanese stuff; what goes around comes around, eh?
DaveM
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Hi Bob
I live near Wigan and sail on the Three Sisters Lake only a mile or so from home.
me and the wife visit Southport almost every week,I have sailed the Remora
on Southport lake nice water bit windy at times.Not a member yet but might
look into joining next year.Three Sisters lake is approx 4 acres very nice but we share it with fishermen
ducks and swans,
Can meet up at Southport in the new year when the weather picks up.
Cheers Gordon.
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Hi Madboats,
I think we we a lot more "enthusiastic" back then!
I remember that we had two Bonito chase boats for the first off-shore race in Torquay (each powered by twin Merco outboards) with two competitors in the back of each boat, (one on each side) and as each boat broke the timing beam on the breakwater we headed out to sea towards the first marker buoy. When we returned and broke the timing beam again our times were recorded (if we got the boats back into the harbour!).
We were in a 6 ft swell and the fishing fleet had come back in (followed by the coastguard boat) before we started, but an hour later we headed on out to sea - often being "walled-in" and looking up at a wall of water above our heads, so every time we came up to the top of the swell and could briefly see our model boats, I gave the rudder a nudge so the Swordsman was heading in the right direction and then I lost sight of it until we came up to the top of the swell again! A very strange and rather frightening experience as we stood up as high on our toes as we dared to see as much model boat as possible before it went out of sight again!
It looked like we were making some progress but also being pushed back a lot as the Swordsman crested each wave. It was really annoying to see the new "prototype" Krack-a-Long's "anhedral" top deck push the boat under-water into the crest of the wave and then see it burst out the other side without being pushed back anything like as much as the rest of us!
I was just pleased to complete the course and to get my Swordsman back in one piece and decided there and then that I would not be going out again for round two! If I remember correctly there never was a round two and some competitors (more sensible than myself) never went out at all!
Needless to say, we all bought an ED Krack-a-Long kit as soon as they came on sale, as we could not compete with them in heavy seas - brilliant design idea!
However, we never faced seas like that again. I think the organisers must seen and realised the potential dangers of sending "land-lubbers" like ourselves out in such heavy seas whilst stood in the back of fast open Bonito chase boats, and so the Krack-a-Longs never got too much use by us after that as they weren't half so impressive on calm waters or back home on the club waters!
The 5cc diesel Viking engines did not prove to be as easy to run as our glow engines either, so the hulls (and engines!) were swapped for "something more suitable" over a course of just a few weeks ownership from new!
There must have been quite a few "low mileage" Krack-a Longs for sale at the time!
Stay in touch!
Bob.
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I remember saving-up and buying my Launch-Link radio - the first thing I bought with my meagre apprenticeship wages.
That black metal box was held with great pride - but it was eventually swapped-in for a new OS Cougar radio - and then I bought my first Futaba set and used that and a McGregor proportional set (a strange looking thing with a third stick) on my different model boats for many years!
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Hi Bob
I live near Wigan and sail on the Three Sisters Lake only a mile or so from home.
me and the wife visit Southport almost every week,I have sailed the Remora
on Southport lake nice water bit windy at times.Not a member yet but might
look into joining next year.Three Sisters lake is approx 4 acres very nice but we share it with fishermen
ducks and swans,
Can meet up at Southport in the new year when the weather picks up.
Cheers Gordon.
Hi Gordon,
Meeting up with you at the Southport Club in the New Year sounds like a good idea.
I will try to get my Remora finished to give its "maiden voyage" at this same time.
Sadly ic engines are banned on the club lake, but the modern electrics can be far too fast for the size of our lake in any case, so I guess they will not be making a return any time soon.
As a mater of courtesy I only run my fast boats when the other club members are not on the lake - and this usually means not running on club days as there are some nice scale models that deserve to be able to sail without being harassed by my white water.
Not a problem, the club members with scale boats are only on the lake together on Sundays and Thursdays - and mostly in the mornings only - so that leaves plenty of time on the water on every non club days and most evenings too!
I also like to run at a more sedate pace on Club Days with my TID tug and other scale models too! :-))
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Well Christmas and New year celebrations have now been and gone and I have returned to my workshop (shed) to do some more work on my Remora build....I am not a high speed builder unfortunately!
The hull build is finished and yesterday I completed the cabin build . The cabin roof has two laminations of 1/2" balsa sheet, so there was plenty of sanding to be done to end up with the unique "dome shaped" roof, and I can only imagine that everyone will have a slightly different interpretation of the finished shape - even though we are all working to the same plans!
The internal flat front screen (with a full width cut-out window) is presumably installed as a strengthening brace for the front of the cabin sides, and was certainly helpful as a former when assembling the steeply angled cabin sides
I only have the rear hatch to make to complete the structural build so I can then move on to the important details such as locating a water pick-up scoop and sourcing a suitable size prop while I start the sealing and sanding of the woodwork.
When I used to race ic boats back in the '60's I remember fitting the water cooling pick-up off to one side to help counter the natural torque induced twisting action of the motor and help the model run straight. I remember that if you guessed correctly, it was possible to run the model with the rudder dead centre in a straight line - even with high power ic engines.
The pictures of the metal plate assembly that was used to hold the brass shaft support, pick-up pipe and rudder on the prototype show the pick-up pipe off-set to the left (when viewed from the stern) so I think I will make up a scoop from a piece of brass tube and use a similar off-set and see how it goes with electric power this time!
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Here are a couple of photos of my Remora
The motor is mounted directly onto the propshaft tube with the brass flange, there is a water cooling jacket that I fitted in case it was needed but the moter does not get hot atall so I never connected it up.
Nice! what is the name of such propshaft?
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Self isolating sees a return to working on the Remora again as I also try to make something usable out of the butchered remains of a Rapier that I was given a long time ago.
I should have put the Rapier wreck straight into the bin as it has taken precious working time away from the Remora, but I have got the hull straightened now and hope I can spread my work time between them both by working on one whilst the other has adhesive or paint drying etc.
I got an inferiority complex about having the smallest motor out of all those mentioned on this thread so far, so I sent away for a couple of the bigger Turnigy 3648-1450 motors as I needed a bigger motor to shove the wreck (Rapier) along, and thought I would keep one in reserve - just in case the Turnigy D3536/6 1250KV motor fails to deliver the pleasant performance in the Remora that I am hoping for.
Luckily they both fit the same water-cooled mount so swapping them over would be quick and easy (and I am using a 90amp speedo so it should work with either).
Tonight I fitted a shaft support under the 4mm stainless prop shaft and faired it in with Bondaglass filler and then wondered if I should have fitted a 5mm shaft to cope with the power (?), but I will complete the build and test it with the 4mm shaft and hope the slimmer size and lighter weight shaft will work well and justify its selection.
If not the hammer will come out and all the lovey faring-in will be wasted as the 4mm shaft is knocked out and an M5 shaft is inserted in its place !
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I have not contributed to this Remora thread for some time - but I have finished the build and the boat looks good.
What is left to do is some minor finishing - and I like to do this after the painting is finished - and that is where this project has stopped!
I decided to go for another "sticky" looking colour scheme as a "nod" to my original late '60's -70's Remora and I started to spray the deck and lower hull using an aerosol Humbrol French Blue rattle can, with an orange cab and hull sides with spray paint from the same source (Humbrol rattle cans).
Unfortunately, my local model shop run out of Humbrol French Blue aerosols at the start of the "lock-down" so the model was put away until new supplies arrived, but now I am told that Humbrol no longer make this French Blue aerosol !
This is a bit of a blow as I am almost finished and only wanted another can to get the depth of colour in some areas that did not cover quite so well, so I am hoping to find a shop that may still have some Humbrol French Blue aerosol cans left in stock........or that Humbrol start making it again!
If anyone happens to know of a current source of Humbrol French Blue aerosol cans - please let me know as I would like to get this model on the water.
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Hi there
A quick google found this [size=78%]https://www.modelrealm.co.uk/shop/humbrol-aerosol-varnish-p1.html#SID=1081 (https://www.modelrealm.co.uk/shop/humbrol-aerosol-varnish-p1.html#SID=1081)[/size]
Hope it helps your Remora to get finished
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Thanks Leaky Bottom!
That is just what I need.
I have been trying to order two cans of Humbrol French Blue spray cans but the site does not work - a message says that the site is insecure and as I try to add the paint to my basket the screen just goes blank with a message - try again later..............so I will !
As long as they are still in business I should be able to order from them - maybe I could also try calling them tomorrow during "shop hours" to see if anyone is at home.
Bob.
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Hi bob
I just tried to put humbrol paint into "my basket" and I get the same as you did but if you put any other item into your basket the site works and you can place the order.
Might be worth a phone call as you say.
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The new Humbrol spray paint range no longer includes French Blue, and so I may just have a re-think and start again with a new colour scheme.
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I thought it was time to take another look at the Remora that I have been building from the free magazine plan as I have not looked at it since I run out of Humbrol French Blue paint during the early days of the first lock-down.
The hull and the super-structure are finished (but not fully painted !) so I just wanted to add a shelf to hold the ESC and another to hold the rx, drill the holes for all the wires to connect the motor to the ESC (in different compartments) and decide where to locate the LiPos and how to hold them securely.
I made a small shelf with supports to hold the ESC against the rear of the bulkhead that divides the "engine bay" from the next compartment with a pair of supports to stand on top of the keel doublers.
The ESC shelf was made slightly too wide, so I passed it though the bandsaw to cut off a narrow strip to make a shelf (with supports) to mount the receiver onto and fixed it onto the bottom skin on the opposite side to where the steering linkage will run.
The three wires complete with 6mm gold connectors were passed from the mounted 90A SeaKing ESC through to the engine bay where (fortunately) the guesstimate worked out OK and the wires were just long enough to connect them to the Turnigy D3536/6 1250 brushless motor wires.
This motor is what I usually refer to as the "aero-type" because the greater part of the rotating motor body is mounted in-front of the motor mount so it is mounted further forward in the hull than would be the case with any of the other brushless motors that I am using.
This is the one installation that defeats my "universal" inter-changability of any motor in any hull system, but if it does not perform well enough I will cut the mount out of the hull and re-position it to accept any of my other motors. The ESC can be used in any hull as it has been fitted with the 6mm gold connectors that I use to connect every motor and ESC together.
I found an old brass rudder assembly that is probably of the same vintage as the Remora plan. The rudder is quite large and should suite this "steering design" quite well, so I cut the threaded brass mounting boss down a little and fitted a 5mm brass collar onto the shaft to prevent it dropping out if I should ever suffer a loose steering horn clamp when he boat is out on the lake.
I think I can mount two LiPo cells length-wise under the ESC shelf but I have not decided how to hold them securely yet, and I need to modify and finish the steering servo mounts so they will be my next jobs to do on the Remora..........and keep looking for some paint!
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Pic Section....
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Now that the sulking about Humbrol no longer making the French Blue spray paint (that I wanted to buy to finish the paint job on this long neglected model) has passed and Rapier1 needs no more time consuming work, I have found and fitted the parts that I had intended to use in this model and connected everything up - and it all worked!
Freshly inspired, I will finish the small internal parts that I want to add to the inside and then take a look to see what paint I have laying about to cover over the orange and French Blue colours that I wanted to use (the wife hated this colour scheme anyway) and come up with something else so that I can get the boat on the water before it either dies or boredom or old age!
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I have found some pictures of my Remora build and I will see if I can add them to this thread as it is an interesting model build from the old original 1964 Model Maker free Christmas plans.
The first small batch of pictures show the bottom skins fitted and the scrap balsa wood nose blocks fitted and ready to be carved and sanded to shape.
Also shown is the transom that has been over-covered with a clean piece of 1/16" plywood as the scrap ply that I used to cut the bulkheads from was so bad that I wanted to cover it up as it looked poor and was weak and split easily - I should never have used it!
The brass nails were used to hold the ply skin covering over the transom in place to prevent any air pockets and to give a good lamination between the two layers of plywood, but they were removed the next day after they had done the job and the aliphatic glue had dried.
The last two pictures show the side skins fitted and the model beginning to take shape.
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How to hold it all together!
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The next series of pictures takes the Remora build up to having the hull fully skinned and the start of the cabin build.
The first two pictures show the rubbish quality of scrap wood offcuts that I used. This was a mistake as I only intended using these parts to test my cereal packet templates to see if they would fit together OK, but as the parts went together I decided to wrap them in some new good quality ply skinning and make a boat out of them!
They also show the buoyancy foam that I added to the first two compartments as they will be completely sealed and inaccessible once the decks cover them over.
Pictures 3-5 show the deck skins tacked down with plenty of brass nails to hold them in place while the aliphatic glue drys. All the nails were removed afterwards and the decks skins were trimmed to shape.
Picture 6-7 show the cabin build with the 1/2" balsa wood cut and fitted to form the first layer of the cabin top. The masking tape was used to hold the "wings" of the cabin to the deck to the correct angles while the glue was drying. These cabin sides are a bit awkward as they lean inwards and extend back past the rear window bulkhead so the tape helped to ensure everything could be aligned correctly before the glue set them in place.
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Now that the sulking about Humbrol no longer making the French Blue spray paint
Try DC Paint solutions, they'll mix any colour you want in any type of paint
https://www.dcpaintsolutions.com/
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2ND BIT!
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This third set of pictures takes the build almost to completion.
Pictures 1 & 2 show the 1/2" thick top cap pinned onto the first layer of 1/2" balsa wood (already fitted to the cabin) pinned in place until the aliphatic glue dried. They also show the last two triangular shaped sections of deck covering fitted just in front of the cabin windscreen frame.
Pictures 3-5 show the cabin with the top sanded to shape and the plywood combing on the aft deck ready to accept the large rear hatch cover.
The last two pictures show the completed hull painted with a white undercoat , and the cabin sprayed in the Humbrol orange colour that I had intended using originally.
Also shown is the balsa wood "plug" that I made to push fit in-between the rear deck combings. This will later be covered with a 1.5mm ply skin to finish it off and complete the hatch.
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CHAPTER 3
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The last three pictures in this build sequence brings the models slow build progress up to its current state.
I decided to add a small wind shield/deflector to the cabin top and cut a shallow trough in the cabin roof to sit it into.
As I fitted the windshield I also added a matching small sized mast to complete the cabin top so that it did not look quite so bare.
Likewise with the large rear hatch cover. The plan shows this to be a flat push-fit lid that looked a bit like a sandwich box , but in my Remora prototype I imagined the engine to be located under this hatch so I added a pair of access doors and an air intake.
With a couple of brass handrails bent up and added to the rear of the cabin and some lift handles added to the engine access openings I have added some basic detail to an otherwise fairly bland superstructure.
The next job is to complete the interior fit so the motor and ESC are in place and I work out what size of LiPo I can fit that will bring the recommended balance point close to bulkhead B3 and then make a battery tray to hold it in place.
Once this is done the components can be stripped out so the inside of the hull can be painted whilst I make a decision on a suitable colour to paint the outside of the boat.........and this is where the build stopped the last time so I will use the paint that I already have so it could end up being back/white/red or blue - or maybe a mixture of them all?
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STARTING THE GOODIES.
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Try DC Paint solutions, they'll mix any colour you want in any type of paint
https://www.dcpaintsolutions.com/ (https://www.dcpaintsolutions.com/)
Thanks Andy,
That could be a good contact for me to use in the future as I am having problems finding a good choice of available colours in Trade Gloss paint to brush on.
Most "brush applied" paint now seems to be made to the latest environmentally friendly recipe that also allows easy brush cleaning in water, and any that are still "spirit based" now seem to be described and sold as "Trade Gloss".
Unfortunately, I have found this new formulae for domestic paint has very poor covering power, and even after several coats have been applied, it is still not truly water resistant and therefore not the best choice of brush paint for use on a model boat.
I painted the stand for Rapier1 with a top quality branded paint that was advertised as being suitable for "outdoor use on wood and metal" and it took 5 - 6 coats of paint to achieve the colour even when applied on top of a primer and suitably coloured undercoat - and yet when a few drips of water fell onto the fully dried and aged paint finish (as the boat was put back on the stand after a run) - the paint on the stand was marked and showed water stains!
This paint was chosen from one of the current ranges of domestic paints that most brands now offer for sale.
Goodness only knows what would happen if it actually got wet!
As a matter of interest, I called the paint manufacturers own technical advice dept and asked about this paints suitability for use as a durable outdoor paint or for use on metal (as printed on the tin) - and specifically for use on a boat, and I was advised that they would not recommend it's use for any of these purposes ! {:-{
Bob.
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The mount for the ESC had already been made previously to keep it up above the floor of the hull to help prevent it getting splashed (or worse sitting in a puddle) in the event of any water getting into the hull, but tonight I fitted some side rails to the platform to give a good tight fit against the sides of the Seaking 90A ESC to keep it in place.
The little raised platform for the receiver was also fixed in place and the rx held in position on top of it with an elastic band.
Then I looked at the best place to position the Turnigy 3C 5000mah LiPo that I intend to use and checked how its position could be used to help give the suggested balance point as shown on the plans. Once this had been established I made a LiPo tray to fit the battery that would grip it firmly and hold it in the correct position, and after double checking the fit and the balance point again I glued it into the hull.
With everything now fitted into the hull and held firmly in position I connected the LiPo to check that everything still worked OK, and had no problems - except the rudder arm was not as good a fit on the shaft as I would have liked so I will change that for a better one when everything is put back into the hull for the final time.
When the glue is dry, I will remove everything from inside the hull and paint it after splashing some resin about to seal the wood grain and check to see if any areas would benefit from a little glass fibre chopped matting to strengthen it - although this is not a heavy duty hull like my bigger deep V models that I have and I have tried to keep it quite light (but strong) so I won't be "going to town" on this part of the job.
A small pressed steel flat spanner is held in place with a pair of small magnets in the rear compartment so I can make any propeller changes without having to carry any tools with me when I first test the boat on the water.
Although I only made some small progress tonight, I am happy with the layout and know that everything fits into the hull tidally and works as it should, so now I can go back to the bit I am dreading - putting some paint on it.......after finding a colour scheme that I like with the colours of brushing paint that I can find to work with.
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Can't you buy "Valspar" anymore? O0
Regards Ian.
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The Zooma engine room etc.
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Can't you buy "Valspar" anymore? O0
Regards Ian.
Thanks Ian,
I think most of the paint sold in B&Q is branded Valspar these days - but I also remember some smaller tinlets of model paint that used to be available years ago with the same name?
These were a little larger sized tins than the Humbrol types, but still ideal for modellers - and they would be a nice size for me to buy and work with if they are still made.
I need to search online to see if I can find a colour chart and then find out where I can buy some.
Bob.
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A Micro-Flex coupling was purchased some time back to replace the Huco type plastic coupling shown in the previous photographs as I like the Power Flex couplings that I usually choose to fit but they would be too big to fit in this Remora due to the rear mounted out-runner motor positioning.
The Micro-Flex coupling is advertised as being a replacement for the Huco type so this looked like it should fit easily and give a smoother more reliable power transmission, but unfortunately the one that I bought is very much out of alignment on the tapped M4 end .
I checked this and noted that as I turn the prop shaft slowly by hand (with only this end connected) this end of the coupling can be seen to move up and down by quite a large amount! The tapped hole is clearly not central so rather than turning concentrically it throws loops, and if this was coupled to the 5mm motor shaft this would cause vibrations and possibly the longer term failure of the Micro Flex coupling and accelerated wear on the prop shaft bearings?
This was very disappointing so when I get back I will give modelboatbits a ring and maybe buy another Micro Flex coupling that has a 4mm unthreaded bore on the prop shaft end as well as the plain 5mm bore on the motor end. Without the threaded end it may be more likely to get a coupling that can run "true" and not wobble like this one does.
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Sorry Bob! I think you may have got the one I had that Steve exchanged for me, thankfully very quickly. %) Yes, the replacement is spot on!
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Sorry Bob! I think you may have got the one I had that Steve exchanged for me, thankfully very quickly. %) Yes, the replacement is spot on!
Nah - Steve wouldn't send out a returned item knowing it to be defective........but I do know that you only said that to try and wind me up >>:-( .......and further added to the story by letting me know that the replacement that you received was spot on O0
I called Steve this afternoon and he offered to replace my Micro Flex coupling straight away, and this time I have asked for both ends of the coupling to be plain bored with no thread in either end as I suspect that this may be a potentially better way to ensure accurate alignment?
As usual, Steve was "on the ball" and said he would make the replacement straight away this afternoon and get it in the post to me.
You cant get a better service then that ! I am very pleased :-))
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Curses, foiled again Moriarty!
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The replacement MicroFlex coupling bored 5mm at the motor shaft end and bored 4mm at the prop shaft end arrived from Steve this morning. It has been fitted into the boat and it looks good.
I also fitted a better steering arm to the rudder (bought previously from modelboatbits) and adjusted the ESC so everything is now ready to go.
Remora will be given her first "wet test" on the lake at Southport this week and if all goes well the motor, coupling, ESC and steering servo will be stripped out of it next week so the inside of the hull can be painted.
Progress at last for this slow build Remora. :-))
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Gulf colours .....with an attitude problem!
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Tony - your mention of Gulf Colours has given me a thought.
I could cover the French Blue with a paler shade of blue and see what that looks like?
Failing that, I could be drifting back towards the “in house” red/white/black colours again , but a change would be nice if I can find some colours that work for the model.
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………and maybe some strakes would look good too……….. O0
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Remora was taken to the Southport club lake today and everything worked OK but produced a couple of snags that I need to take care of.
Firstly the boats performance (speed wise) could best be described as “adequate”. My wife thought it was “rather sweet” and actually had a drive when I needed to pop back to the car for something!
Various props will be tried, but basically I think the boat lacked a little “umph”, but a new motor with more power would need a prop shaft upgrade to 5mm and the engine mount cutting out to accommodate a more conventionally front mounted motor.
With 3 cell LiPo power I expected a better turn of speed.
A comparatively minor snag was another leaking alloy motor mount that caused water to be pumped into the engine bay. The same thing happened with Rapier1’s maiden voyage (!). I will try smearing some Araldite on the threads of the two brass nipples and hope this fixes the leaks.
The positive side was that the boat looked good on the water and steered beautifully as expected from a boat designed by Vic Smeed for use in steering competitions!
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Hi Zooma
What motor, ESC and prop have you got on the boat ???
I use 4mm drive lines on all but two of my boats.
3/16" on the Crash Tender 46" and installing one in Spooky because of the length of the shaft.
Canabus
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Hi Zooma
What motor, ESC and prop have you got on the boat ???
I use 4mm drive lines on all but two of my boats.
3/16" on the Crash Tender 46" and installing one in Spooky because of the length of the shaft.
Canabus
Hi Harry,
I have a Turnigy 3536/6 1250KV rear mounted out-runner (see photos on this thread) with a SeaKing 90amp ESC (shown in photos) powered by a Turnigy 5000mah 20-30C LiPo 11.1volts (also in photos) and I was using an S40 prop.
An X35 prop was tested, but this made very little difference. I was hoping it would allow the motor to rev more freely, but now I am thinking that the motor is revving a much as it is going to do, so I will try a bigger prop next time.
Now I have returned home I have wiped some 24hr Araldite around the threads of the two brass nipples that screw into the water-cooled alloy motor mount to fix the leak and I have found that I can (just about) squeeze an X45 prop onto the prop shaft without it touching the underside of the hull or the water pick-up (but it is tight) and I am hoping that the motor has enough torque to turn this prop and push the boat along a little bit faster!
If the bigger prop does not improve the speed then I will have to cut out the motor mounting platform so that I can remount it further back to allow a more conventional choice of out-runner motor with a front mounting. This will give me plenty of choice as I have a few out-runners to choose from that I know will shove this lovely little Vic Smeed design along at a much brisker pace............but I am disappointed by the lack of "power" that this Turnigy 3536/6 1250KV has to offer.
I definitely expected a better performance from this motor!
Stay safe,
Bob.
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Hi Zooma
Banggood have a Surpass C3542-1250(850Watts) and 1450kv(1050Watts)which both handle up to 4S.
I am running the 1450kv on 4S with a 32mm 2blade prop in the Old Speed boat and it's quick.
The 1250kv ones are in the little Huntsman and Corona Cabin Cruiser on 3S with 30mm 3 blade props.
I have had the Huntsman on 4S and planning on changing it to the 1450kv because the hull will handle it no problems!!!
Canabus
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I have just noticed that the 4mm plywood fillet that I used to "fair-in" the space between the prop shaft and the underside of the hull has split away from the hull.
This fairing is held between the shaft and the underside of the hull with 24 hour Araldite and I have used this method to hold similar shaft fairings on to every hull I have ever made and used since 1964, and even those that used large vibrating two strokes petrol engines and high reviving glow engines have never failed!
I doubt that the "less than impressive" performance that I have witnessed from this Turnigy 3536/6 1250KV motor would be enough to worry a good bond like this so I can only guess that there is some undetected vibration or movement that has caused this hairline split?
This is the only model boat that I have fitted one of the thin stainless steel Perkins prop shafts into. I chose this shaft because it would look "neat" on this Remora (and and it has a 4mm inner shaft that again I thought would suit this model well.
The alignment of the shaft/motor/coupling is spot-on so I know that there is no problem here that could contribute to any excess vibration and I was using a brand new MicroFlex coupling that should help to keep everything running vibration free. The shaft itself was "rolled" on a flat surface and it is absolutely straight and the whole motor/coupling/shaft assembly turns nice and smoothly.
Maybe the thin stainless outer tube has allowed the 4mm shaft to whip - despite the lack of excess power, good alignment and free turning drive train?
It is certainly an unusual thing to see on any of my powerboats, so having checked everything is OK I have re-bonded the shaft fairing back into place again and I will see is it moves again as I give this motor another chance to perform before scrapping it and changing it for a different motor such as one of the excellent Surpass motors as suggested by Harry in his last post.
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The split and the "Gentleman's Runabout". Not the normal Zooma pace!
Bob sent me a short film of Remora running. If anyone wants to see it, send me a PM and I'll forward to e-mail address.
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An old 2BA prop shaft was found in the workshop this afternoon, so I cut it down to 11"" and fitted a pair of 5mm phosphor bronze bearings so I have a 5mm prop shaft ready to replace the 4mm one I have fitted now - if I need to fit a more powerful motor. :-))
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Bob,
Could it be that the Araldite just didn't take properly, maybe a slightly greasy surface preventing full or proper adhesion?
Remora looks good on the water, even if performance isn't up to expectation quite yet.
You'll get to the bottom of it I'm sure.
Will
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Bob,
Could it be that the Araldite just didn't take properly, maybe a slightly greasy surface preventing full or proper adhesion?
Remora looks good on the water, even if performance isn't up to expectation quite yet.
You'll get to the bottom of it I'm sure.
Will
The hull and the fairing were both raw wood at the time they were Araldited together so the bond should have been OK, but I have repaired it now and hope it will not split away again.
Performance wise it is OK - but my TID tug is almost as quick(!) - so I am hoping to find an improvement with the least work. More work takes time away from my other projects but I would like to see it move with a little more pace so I will do what works to improve it.
With a 5mm prop shaft now made and ready to use (if needed) a bigger motor could be fitted, but I will try the set-up that I have first with the X45 prop and hope it will work.
Cutting out the existing alloy water-cooled engine mount and motor plate to fit a front mounted out-runner involves fairly major surgery, so if it comes to this I will change the shaft to 5mm to make certain that I don't have to "butcher" the hull for any other reason in the future.
Using this 35mm rear mounted Turnigy 3536/6 1250KV motor was a mistake - I hadn't reckoned on it being such a poor performer. I should have stuck with my usual mix of using the alloy water cooled mount - positioned to accept a front mounted out-runner and a 5mm prop shaft. A rock solid combination that can cope with anything I could ever want to fit.
I may see if I have a 4cell LiPo that could spark some life into this Turnigy 3536/6 1250KV motor. With a 35mm motor like this that has a 1250KV rating it should work very well in this lightweight hull on 3 cells (or two cells) so maybe it is just a faulty motor?
Does anyone know what the /6 after the 3536 designation means?
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I was going to ask if you had a 4s battery that you could try, to see how much of a difference it makes.
The extra voltage should give some useful extra rpm.
Keep at it Bob, you'll win.
Will
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I was going to ask if you had a 4s battery that you could try, to see how much of a difference it makes.
The extra voltage should give some useful extra rpm.
Keep at it Bob, you'll win.
Will
Thanks Will,
I do have a 4 cell LiPo that will fit. Sadly it has an XT90 plug fitted as it is used on a fast boat where I would normally choose this size of plug. I only have an XT60 plug on the ESC for the Remora as I never considered this boat ever needing so much power just to get it to move along at a reasonably brisk pace.
I can solder-up an XT90 - XT60 converter, but I do wonder if I am just failing to accept that this motor is a bit of a "flop".
With a decent 35 size motor my Rapier fly's along on just two cell LiPos - and that is a much bigger and heavier boat with a V hull that needs much more power than this lightweight "flattie" to push it along.
Sadly, I am thinking that the Turnigy 3536/6 is an unexpected poor choice - but I don't know why this motor is such a wimp!
Does anyone know what the /6 part of the motors description is?
3536 presumably refers to the motor width and length - but what does the /6 refer to?
In the old style (non-brushless) model car racing motors this would refer to the number of windings on the armature and /6 would give a very aggressive motor, but the winding on this brushless motor are very fine - and it is certainly not an aggressive motor >>:-(
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Hi Ye old Zooma
As the diameter is the same , the length of the motor makes up a lot in power.
The longer the motor will get more power because of winding length.
Checking out the motor specs and comparing to others !!
The Watts on the specs is on the higher voltage and dropping voltage losses power.
Comparing two motors:-
The Banggood Surpass C3542-1450kv 1050Watts on 4S .
The Hobbyking 3648-1450kv 1600Watts 0n 6S.
The 3648-1450kv on 4S is far more powerful than the C3542-1450kv on 4S.
Canabus
[/size][size=78%] [/size]
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Hi Ye old Zooma
As the diameter is the same , the length of the motor makes up a lot in power.
The longer the motor will get more power because of winding length.
Checking out the motor specs and comparing to others !!
The Watts on the specs is on the higher voltage and dropping voltage losses power.
Comparing two motors:-
The Banggood Surpass C3542-1450kv 1050Watts on 4S .
The Hobbyking 3648-1450kv 1600Watts 0n 6S.
The 3648-1450kv on 4S is far more powerful than the C3542-1450kv on 4S.
Canabus
I just found and checked the small manufacturers slip of paper that was included with the Turnigy D3536/6 1250KV
voltage range 7.4 - 15v
1250KV(rpm/v) 1250.
Max Pull 12670g.
Motor size 35 * 36mm.
Max Power 496watt.
The last line of the spec sheet says it all. Max Power 496watt.
It is a officially a weakling! <:(
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Hi Zooma
It would not pull skin off a custard !!
The Banggood C3542-1250 or the 1450kv has the beans !!!
Canabus
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Sadly I have to cut the engine mounting plate out of the Remora as I made it to accommodate this rear mounted motor so the water cooled engine mount is in the wrong place to accept the more normal front mounted motors!
The motor plate that the alloy mount is bonded onto needs to be cut out of the hull and a new one made to position the mount in the right place,
This is not a mistake that I will make again as it will make a lot of work that could have been avoided..........this is getting to be a bit like one of my restoration jobs - but this time in a hull that I have newly built >:-o
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This afternoon I cut away the engine mounting and removed it from the hull.
A new plywood plate to fit into the hull with a replacement alloy water cooled motor mount was made, but with the motor now being further away from the bow the very shallow angle of the prop shaft specified by Vic Smeed in his hull design made it very difficult to fit.
The old motor mount sides have been cleaned-up and fitted onto 1.5mm plywood and the remans of the original hardwood mounting have been chiseled back to give a bed to laminate this new motor mount onto, and this has made it possible to retain the original prop shaft angle.
For now the 4mm prop shaft will remain, but the 5mm shaft that I made to replace it will be ready to fit if the 4mm shaft fails to handle the new motors improved power output.
When this new mount has been installed it will then be possible to swap to almost any other out-runner or in-runner motor brushless motor and experiment to find the most suitable match. I am thinking about starting with a Turnigy 3542 1250. Surprisingly, no printed information sheet was supplied with this motor, but it is the right size and shape so it should perform a lot better than the removed Turnigy D3536/6 1250KV motor - and if it does not, it will be a quick and easy job to unscrew it from the mount and replace it with something else.
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The new mount has been Araldited in and when it is dry it will be given a coat of glass fibre and chopped matting to keep it in place.
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The new mount etc.
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The bottom picture shows the replacement engine bed that I made and wanted to use, but the very low prop shaft angle of this Vic Smeed steering hull made it impossible to fit...........so plan B is shown in the first two pictures!
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Some plywood cheeks were cut to fully support the new engine plate before it was Araldited into place and when dry it was given a coat of Bondaglass resin and some chopped matting. Nothing too thick as I didnt want to add too much weight to the hull.
When dry the re-worked area of the engine bay was painted so (hopefully) this will be the last time I need to make any more changes to the inside of the hull - unless I find that the 4mm prop shaft will not handle the extra power of the new motor - and if that turns out to be the case - I will fit the 5mm shaft that I have made .
The recycled 5mm prop shaft that I have "in reserve" was made by cutting down an old pre-used 2BA prop shaft and pressing in a new pair of 5mm phosphor bronze bearings. If I do need to use it in this hull I will fit a new 5mm stainless steel inner shaft.
The new engine bay layout has been revised to allow the use of a MaxiFlex coupling this time to bring it inline with my other powerboat installations. The MicroFlex coupling will not be wasted - I have an old Aerokits Patrol Launch that I bought in 1971 from Exmouth Models - its about time I finished this "slow build" %)
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Remora sailed again today with her new Turnigy 3542 1250 motor with a new water cooled engine mount in the revised position to take any front mounted brushless motor.
A new Turnigy 20-30c discharge 5000mah 3C LiPo was used and the speed remains pathetic-slightly better than with the previous rear mounted Turnigy D3536/6 1250 motor.
The ESC is still the 90A Seaking - the same as used in my blistering fast (in comparison) Inception so that should be fine?
I tested 45X, S45 and 40X props and it hardly made any difference at all. The motor does not rev enough.
Maybe the 20-30C discharge battery is the problem?
Any ideas?
….and does anyone have the claimed power output for this Turnigy 3542 1250 out-runner?
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I don't see the C rating of the battery being your problem, if the 20C rating is to be believed a 5000mA battery is rated as 100A continuous. Lack of revs is either too low a voltage or too low a kV rating. Try either a 4S pack or a similar sized motor with a higher kV rating.
Jim
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I was just wondering whether the hull shape is too "sticky" and doesn't allow the hull to break some of the drag caused by surface tension. I'd almost try sellotaping a thin wedge onto the hull to see if a step-hull effect gave any difference.Just an idea %% Adding more power/prop size etc may follow the law of diminishing returns.
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Harry has let me know that the Turnigy 3542 1250 motor that I have just fitted has a maximum power output of 665 watts - the previous Turnigy had a max power output of 486 watts so the power increase is very slim and that is reflected in the marginal performance increase I can see.
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I was just wondering whether the hull shape is too "sticky" and doesn't allow the hull to break some of the drag caused by surface tension. I'd almost try sellotaping a thin wedge onto the hull to see if a step-hull effect gave any difference.Just an idea %% Adding more power/prop size etc may follow the law of diminishing returns.
You may be right Tony - I was expecting this little lightweight to fly along.
If I still have the motor I took out of Rapier1 here I will bung it in and see what happens!
Failing that I will change the motor when I get home after the bank holiday.
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Hi Zooma
What's the motor from the Rapier ???
I will see if I can find the specs ???
Harry
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The motor that I took out of Rapier1 was the Turnigy 3648 1450.
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Hi Zooma
Holy Hell, you will have it flying with the 3648-1450 on 3S with a 40/45mm prop!!!
Do not try it on 4S, it would be totally insane !!!!
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Just think what you could do with 1600 Chinese watts! %%
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Hi TonyH
I have a 3648-1450 in my Precedent Huntsman on 4S and near sits up on the prop on 4S !!!!
And it's rated at 1600 Watts on 6S !!!!
Harry
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That motor was very fast in Rapier1 so it would murder the Remora!
Maybe I should put it back in Rapier1 and see what the Surpass 3548 1100 goes like in the Remora?
It still shoves Rapier1 along at a tidy pace but it is not as violent a the Hot Turnigy!
Does your reference bank have the power rating for this Surpass by any chance Harry?
It would make an interesting comparison !
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Hi Zooma
The 1100kv is 500Watts on 4S.
If you scroll down their page you find the specs on the motors.
I am putting a 1250kv in the Wavemaster(34") on 3S.
Keeping the two 1450kv for a Spearfish, 2100 Watts on 4S may get it moving !!!
Harry
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Harry has let me know that the Turnigy 3542 1250 motor that I have just fitted has a maximum power output of 665 watts - the previous Turnigy had a max power output of 486 watts so the power increase is very slim and that is reflected in the marginal performance increase I can see.
This is making no sense at all.
The Surpass 3548 1100 that shoves the much heavier and bigger Rapier1 along at a really good pace (on 2 cells!) is only rated at 590 watts, but the Turnigy 3542 1250 motor that struggles to push the smaller and lighter weight Remora along (on 3 cells!) is rated at 665 watts!
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What is the weight of the model, Bob? The original came in at 5lb1oz according to the VS build write-up in MB and was powered by an OS19 3.5cc glow. The motor equates to about 300 watts apparently. The film here is basically the "as designed" which might be useful since it should be close to what VS intended. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jbTdqq582rg
:-))
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I don’t have any scales with me here in the van Tony, but my Remora is far less than half the weight of Rapier1.
The Remora running at Fleetwood is what I would expect mine to run like so I need to keep checking to find out why it doesn’t go very well.
It can only be the motor or maybe the ESC so when I get home I will change them both and resolve it by the process of elimination, and I will weigh it and let you know what it comes out at, but it is definitely not a heavy boat.
I have seen lots of fast Remora’s over the years so I don’t believe the sluggish performance has anything to do with the hull.
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I appreciate that Bob but from the pics she doesn't seem to run as cleanly as she should? Just something else to eliminate :-))
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I appreciate that Bob but from the pics she doesn't seem to run as cleanly as she should? Just something else to eliminate :-))
Every idea is a good idea - until proven otherwise O0
………so right now I am happy to gather any ideas or thoughts that will help me to identify the problem- then I can fix it!
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Have you checked your battery voltage under load, it could be fine with no load but if you have 1 duff cell it could bring the voltage down when running
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Have you checked your battery voltage under load, it could be fine with no load but if you have 1 duff cell it could bring the voltage down when running
No I haven’t checked that Leaky.
I bought two new LiPo packs for this new boat and was impressed to see how equal each cell was balanced with each other during and after being charged in both packs, but I have not checked either of them when they are under load in the boat.
When I find a method of checking this I will do it. I also have other 3 cell packs that I use on a small fast plastic Vector 80 so I will try using these LiPo packs on Remora and try the new packs in the Vector 80 so I can cross check them in each boat.
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I appreciate that Bob but from the pics she doesn't seem to run as cleanly as she should? Just something else to eliminate :-))
Hi Tony,
The hull shape is built from the original Dec 1964 Model Maker plans with no modifications and it is built “light” so it should run OK.
I have used the same paint on the underside as I used on Rapier1 (and that performs really well) so I don’t think there is anything to cause any extra drag, and the centre of gravity balance point is where it is shown on the plan when the LiPo is fitted
Remora does not have any strakes specified in the design so I could add some to see if that could help but at the moment I just think that I need more power.
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I tested Remora again today and changed the tx to give a fresh ESC set up, but it made no difference- the boat was still slow.
Both LiPo batteries were then tested in the Vector 80 where they performed superbly - very fast and with excellent endurance, so the LiPos are not the problem and the motor will be changed next.
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Are you able to take any video of your Remora to give an idea as to it's performance.
Have you checked if the coupling is not slipping on the motor shaft or the propshaft (if it's not threaded).
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Are you able to take any video of your Remora to give an idea as to it's performance.
Have you checked if the coupling is not slipping on the motor shaft or the propshaft (if it's not threaded).
Hi Leaky,
I filed a “flat” on the 5mm motor shaft to prevent any movement before I installed the motor and I did check that the Powerflex coupling was tight and not slipping.
Until (or if) I need to upgrade the prop shaft to 5mm the current shaft is threaded 4mm with the customary lock nut against the coupling. I also checked to make sure there was a little “end-float” to ensure the shaft was turning freely and not binding. All of this checks-out OK.”
I do have a short video of the boat taken on my iPhone, when I get home I can send it to you if you send me a PM with your email or iPhone info.
Stay safe,
Bob.
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A Surpass 3548 1100 motor has now been fitted into Remora!
This is the same motor that powers Rapier1 along so nicely, so if this should fail - I only have the ESC left to change.
I will get to the bottom of this "lack of speed" problem - eventually! >:-o
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Remora ran with the new Surpass motor on 3C and although it was a little faster it was still not anything like quick enough.
I ran Rapier1 with the same motor (on two cells) and although being a bigger, heavier boat and only running on 2C it was considerably faster!
The 90amp ESC that I am using is a spare that I bought new for my Inception/Alpha1000 and that is a good fast boat on 4C and 6C so I am now thinking that this speedo is probably optimised for 4-6 cell use and is why Remora is so slow on the motors tested so far !
When I get home I will swap the ESC as this is the only thing left to change - and now seems to be the most likely reason for the sluggish performance.
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HELP.
The ESC that I am using in my Remora is a SEAKING 90A.
It was bought as a spare ESC that I bought for my Alfa 1000/Inception (same boat) that came with pre-soldered Y leads to connect with a pair of 2 cell or a pair of 3 cell LiPo cells. This is a VERY fast boat for the size of our club lake at Southport, even when only running with a pair of 2 cell LiPo's. I don't need this performance from my Remora and only want to run it on a single 3 cell LiPo.
I removed the Y lead and fitted a single XT60 plug as I only wanted to run with a single 3cell LiPo in this Remora.
I notice that there is a pair of capacitors(?) heat shrunk onto the red lead between the ESC to the XT60 plug.
Does anyone know if these could be the reason why no brushless motor has been able to rev freely in this boat ?
The motor that I have in the Remora now is the same one that powers my much larger and heavier Rapier around the lake (on 2 cells only) at a very fast speed, but even with a very good 3 cell LiPo cell, my Remora only runs at walking pace at best!
Is this heat shrunk pack of "capacitors"(?) on the ESC red power wire likely to be choking the power? Could the ESC (that is intended for use in the Alpha100/Inception) be wired to take 2x 2 cell packs (4 cells) or 2x 3 cell packs (6cells) and so is not able to work with only 3 cells?
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Pics of capacitors etc.
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The programming card shown does not help!
It will only go to the first 5 settings...............but if I could find out how to make it reveal the other 7 (Advanced) settings, I can see that number 12 would allow me to set the number of LiPo cells being used - maybe this would help?.................if I could find a way to access it?
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Another one
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The last two pictures show the SEAKING 90A ESC that I am using.
Firstly as it was supplied with a fitted Y lead (as a spare part for an Inception) with two XT90 plugs, and as I am using it now with one XT60 plug.
I can't see any reason why this would prevent any of the motors tested to date being able to rev freely.
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Hi Bob
My thoughts are. Initially thought it wouldn't be the ESC as it is a branded item and so why would the boat manufacturer have any changes made to it? But thinking more, perhaps they did order a batch with a change made to suit the boat and stop access to some of the menu items on the program card?
You say Inception can take 2x2S or 2x3S but wouldn't this require the cell count/low-voltage to be altered? As you can't alter it for one 3S Remora is probably running so slow because the ESC is running in get you back to the bank mode!
You could try the ESC in Inception to see if it works correctly or if it is faulty.
Chris
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I have also considered all those options Chris - and I am no wiser.
The ESC will not allow me to enter the program mode from the transmitter either - so maybe it is just a "duff" unit?
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Could be, will have to try it in Inception to confirm.
Do the instructions for Inception mention altering the cell count, though I guess it will be set to Auto?
Chris
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I checked the Inception instructions first, but they are not very comprehensive, so I downloaded and printed-out the Seaking instruction manual and also looked it up and watched some uTube videos, but this ESC will not respond.
I have also tried introducing a different radio system in the hope that the ESC would need a new set-up - but that idea failed too <:(
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Rossendale Models have a Blue-Tooth device made by Hobbywing (the makers of Seaking ESC) that allows the speedo to be programmed via an app on your phone.
I am hoping to try one this weekend to see if it can access my Seaking 90A and make some progress on persuading it to share some more electricity with the motor!
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I ventured into the workshop (shed) last night - first time for a few weeks! My ESC problems remain as I have not yet been able to pick up the bluetooth device (my last attempt to fix it), but I have bought a new Turnigy 120A ESC to replace the troublesome 90A SeaKing if the Bluetooth device fails to fix it.
The SeaKing ESC is physically smaller and sits on a neat custom made shelf on the back of the engine bay bulkhead, so I am still hoping for a fix as it should be more than adequate for the job - and a similar one works really well in my Inception where it handles far more power than I need it to in the Remora.
Having been unable to find any Humbrol French Blue spray paint to go with the Humbrol orange I made a start on my change of colour scheme with some trade brush paint that I had laying round at home (!), so this will keep me amused until I either get my speedo "sorted" or rip-out the current mounting shelf and make a new one to accept the bigger ESC.
Painting is not my favourite job - I would rather be cutting wood and making or restoring something - but when it is finished I can move on from this troublesome project and get back to work on something else.
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At least you are venturing into your workshop! My Javelin is in the garage and that needs a tidy up before I can get anywhere near it. I hope the ESC troubles get sorted Bob. I shall hopefully start sharing some progress reports soon....
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Yes, I've only started again over the last couple of days after nearly 6 months!
I see that they have dropped the 90amp Seaking now, which was the ideal size for some of my boats. Will have to be the 120amp ones now.
Chris
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I see that they have dropped the 90amp Seaking now, which was the ideal size for some of my boats. Will have to be the 120amp ones now.
Chris
That is bad news Chris - although I have been having some problems with the one in this Remora, the SeaKing 90A performs brilliantly in my Inception where it gives a scorching performance on 6 cell or 4 cells, and it is a nice compact size that fits well inside the smaller boats.
The Turnigy 120amp ESC is a fair bit bigger (rebranded SeaKing) and I see that HK now specify it in the current Inception so it is looking like the 90A has been dropped, and we are gong to have to make a bit more space to mount the 120A instead.
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I picked up on it because Wheelspin Models I've bought stuff from don't list it.
Googling it shows some sellers still having the 90amp but the HobbyWing site itself doesn't list it so personally I'd be wary. 120amp gives more leeway though more expensive.
In fact I don't have much luck buying ESC. I have a Fusion Hawk in my Huntress and bought a program card and so thought I'd standardise on them for my other boats but then found I couldn't get them! So then looking for good quality but not too expensive (my criteria for most things) I ordered a Leopard Hobby ESC but when it arrived it was a Seaking. But before sending it back I compared specs and reviews and it was fine so kept it and hope to make it my standard ESC.
Chris
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I ordered a Leopard Hobby ESC but when it arrived it was a Seaking. But before sending it back I compared specs and reviews and it was fine so kept it and hope to make it my standard ESC.
Chris
Have you switched to using water cooled ESC Chris?
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Hi Bob
Not exactly! I use the marine ESCs but don't use the water cooling. I could use the car type as they are generally waterproof.
Chris
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Hi Bob
Not exactly! I use the marine ESCs but don't use the water cooling. I could use the car type as they are generally waterproof.
Chris
Hi Chris,
The water-proof car type ESC (such as the Surpass 120A) may be better than using marine type ESC if you are not going to connect the water cooling tubes to them?
The car type ESC have heat-sink cooling fins to help dissipate the heat (some such as the above also have cooling fans attached as well), whereas the marine type ESC don't usually have much in the way of a heatsink as they rely on the water to provide the cooling.
I personally wouldn't use a marine specific ESC if I was not going to connect it to the water cooling system, but use a car type instead as it would probably be better suited to the application.
Bob.
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Yes, that makes sense. I've only bought one so far and will need to get more for my other builds.
Chris
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The SeaKing 90A is a nice compact sized ESC and I made a small close fitting shelf for it to sit on behind the engine bay firewall, but I am having to have a re-think now because it is not possible to install the larger Turnigy 120A ESC in this same space as it is physically bigger and the leads etc run in a different way.
I am making a new bigger ESC shelf to fit inside the engine bay that effectively straddles the prop shaft. This new shelf position will also need another hole made in a different location to allow the battery lead and connections to pass between the two compartments on the opposite side of the boat.
The water cooling tube layout will be very similar so that will not be affected, but the receiver will now need to be relocated due to the length of the ESC to RX wire. I am thinking about fitting it on the now vacant (previous) ESC shelf as the steering servo lead looks like it will reach the RX if it is mounted here. I need to check it out.
It is a shame that the SeaKing 90A ESC has been so troublesome in this boat as I thought the original layout looked really neat and tidy, but the new layout will have enough space to swap to any ESC in the future (if another change should ever be needed), and IF I should ever find a way to get this 90A ESC working properly, it will be very easy to put everything back in the first layout positions.
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The new 120A ESC now lives in the engine bay as it is too big to fit in the compartment with the LiPos where the smaller 90A ESC was fitted, and I have had to make some new holes in the firewall to thread the wires through as they exit from the opposite side.
The RX has had to be re-located from its little table in the stern to sit on the shelf that was made for the 90A ESC due to the length of available wires etc, and a small extension has been added to the steering servo lead to allow it to reach it.
Setting up the new ESC went as it should - no problems - so I am looking forward to testing the boat in the water at the earliest opportunity - and as soon as I can - but the bad weather will give me some time to get the paint work done before this can happen. {:-{
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Piccie Time!
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Hi Zooma
Have you got your Remora sorted out yet?
Be interesting to know what the problem was.
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Hi Leaky,
I will not be able to do anything more to the boats until after Christmas, but with the proven motor and ESC combo it currently has fitted, it will run OK - but I do have the use of a bluetooth programming device that I will still try as the smaller ESC is a lot neater fit in the boat and it should be more than adequate for the size of motor that I will most likely be using.
Once the boat is running I will be able to see how the M4 prop shaft holds up. I would usually choose to fit an M5 prop shaft, but this boat was started some time ago and if I was doing it again I would definitely fit the bigger dia. shaft.
After Christmas I will complete the painting and hope to get the boat on the water in the New Year.
Merry Christmas!
Bob.
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Hi Bob
have you been able to sort the speed issue with the new ESC?
Pete
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Hi Bob
have you been able to sort the speed issue with the new ESC?
Pete
Hi Pete,
I have not been to the lake since fitting the replacement ESC, but I know it will work OK.
At the moment, I am currently changing the colour scheme and will be running the boat in its new colours this season.
Bob.
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I'm sure it'll be sorted this time and perform how you want it to.
Will be good to see you running it again sometime.
Will