Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Engineering Techniques and Materials. => Topic started by: Tug Fanatic on March 12, 2020, 01:38:22 pm
-
After many years of using soft solder without problems I am now looking at making load bearing components that need silver soldering. I am not talking about steam plant but rather propellers and general load bearing drive train brackets and other soldered model boat components.
Which temperature / composition silver solder should be used? The only recommendation normally given is to silver solder the components but that covers many temperature/ compositon variations.
I have been looking at the CUP alloys website and hoping that their low temperature silver solder is enough.
-
Their 455 silver-solder is the stuff I use, along with their HT5 flux. I think they do a Starter Kit. If you E-Mail them you'll find they are very helpful. BTW even though it's called "low temperature" you will still need a decent gas torch and fine-flame nozzle. A soldering iron or a small pencil-flame torch just won't have the guts. Here's one on offer at present - it's the one I use https://www.amazon.co.uk/Campingaz-TH2000PZ-Ignition-Blowlamp-Cartridge/dp/B000TF4RMS?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Campingaz-TH2000PZ-Ignition-Blowlamp-Cartridge/dp/B000TF4RMS?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1) This is the nozzle https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Home-Kitchen/Camping-X1650-Extra-Fine-Flame-Burner/B000TF4QX8 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Home-Kitchen/Camping-X1650-Extra-Fine-Flame-Burner/B000TF4QX8)
DaveM
-
Also have a look at Cup Alloys web site, lots of useful information on there, and they have a very good sales service.
Phil
-
There is a low melt Silver Solder set available called Stay Brite - more than strong enough for propellers and such like . Been using it for years with a small pencil type gas torch . Very easy to use and makes a very strong joint. Looks like normal electric type solder and comes with a liquid flux in a plastic bottle - all packed in a clear container. Easy to store too
-
Cup Alloys also sell 0.5 mm diameter S/S wire in 1000 mm lengths
This is absolutely ideal for making your own solder rings for your selected tubing size.....[uniform material deposit and dispersion with zero wastage]
I have selected the common sizes for 1/8" & 5/32" OD tube.........
Derek
-
They also from time to time sell two grades of silver solder foil that I find useful .
This site has a handy prop making jig
http://members.dodo.com.au/~sjbatche/making_propellers.htm (http://members.dodo.com.au/~sjbatche/making_propellers.htm)
-
This is the solder - much easier as you can use a small gas torch instead of a blowlamp................
-
Thank you everyone.
I think that I am going to delay a decision until as replies keep coming in and until I have found out if I know anyone with a suitable torch. I am sure that I must!
That first silver solder joint might be rather more expensive than I had expected.
I will look at Stay Brite.
-
Mispost
-
Have a scout around the kitchen. You might find one of those chef's torches used for creme brulee and other stuff. That's what I did a while back and it worked a treat for the silver soldering I was doing.
Of course, you might have to suffer for your hobby if the chef takes exception to having her tools pinched.
Greg
-
From the look of it Stay Brite is a high temperature soft solder being mostly tin, not likely to have the strength of proper silver solder.
Jim
-
Jim - Stay Brite probably does not have the full strength I agree - but its more than adequate for props etc - have yet to have one fail - have had a few bumps on the rocks which bent the props & rudders - no damage otherwise to them - cant say the same for the boats . Its has Silver content as US laws are pretty stringent re false advertising ........... and they tend to get enforced too.
The only time I would see the need for various melting point Silver Solders is for high pressure boilers - the old Mamod Toy & Midwest boilers seem to be assembled with soft solder and don't seem to have any problems .
.