Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: Baldrick on May 15, 2020, 11:33:11 am
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Almost finished Cervia so as a bit of overlap I am bringing this one out of the box . The weather is improving so I am, able to work outside and not swallow lung fulls of sawdust and keep hoovering up . The boat is plank on frame , double planked . easy enough to start with a bit of recreational routing to form the keel rebate for the bottom plank. The jig makes the positioning of the frames easy but I can see trouble coming down the line when it comes to wrapping the planking around the stern . The lines in this area are very fine and the finish over the walnut will be varnish so no chance of filler fudge.
I will start a build log in workboats but for now this is for starters
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Frame One , first of Many.
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I wish you luck with the build I shall be following with interest :-))
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Cheers Phil , think I will need it when I get beyond the easy bit
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I've not seen this method of construction of framework before but I like what I see - tagging along :-))
Regards,
Ray.
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Well here we are with Arfer, I am calling it Arfer because it's arfer boat. I have been using Titebond ultimate III for gluing the frames. (advanced proprietary polymer). Boy , does that stuff stick ! left overnight if something has slipped and you want to adjust it , forget it, the wood will fail first. I will be changing to Gorilla glue for the planking, not so much of an animal , also the Gorilla does not stain as much. I am quite pleased with the lining up of the frames , just a couple of frames I feel the need to pack out a bit before fairing the hull.
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Looks as if this is the sweet plank line . It also ties in nicely with the fiddly bit above the rudder and prop.
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Well , one side planked up . Nearly fully sanded to a true surface , taking it in easy stages ,too much in one go and I get "Plankers Cramp"in the hand. Been looking at the water line which on this model is defined by a strip of light colour wood. Interested in this as the second layer planking is different above and below the water line so the run pf the planking needs serious consideration.
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Nearly finished the second half , could not resist offering them together . Quite surprised by the weight of the bare hull , at present 1.5Kg and still the second layer of planking which is heavier but some of the frames are temporary and get taken out .. Must make up my mind soon wether to go steam or electric. Have a PM Research No 8 which I originally intended for it but also have a MFA 919 D 2:1 geared motor ; keep changing my mind.. I'm tipping towards steam today
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If nothing else this method of construction makes setting up the motor in line with the shaft a doddle. 6mm dia groove for shaft already machined in keel plate
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Well, the two hull halves are duly glued together and the hull inside given 3 coats of resin. Now started the second layer planking, above the water line is in walnut. I was a bit worried about the planking taking the curve and twist of the stern rake, but found that the walnut when hot soaked will take quite an extreme twist and when clamped into place will dry and hold the shape perfectly.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/22/fullsizeoutput_1b3.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/atK6G)
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First planking finished , now started on the second . No chance now, all mistakes will show
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Now down to the waterline. The waterline is defined by a strip of blond wood and the planking is walnut above and mahogany below . This of course separates the planking lines from how you would normally expect them to run.
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The rump introduced some trial and error in getting it to look OK
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Lovely neat work :-)) Steady as she goes.
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Thanks .
Now it is the below waterline second planking. finally decided on the datum line and marked out the planking lengths.
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Progressing super well Baldric :-)) ....I find both Mahogany and Walnut timbers a little difficult to plank......
We see both Titebond III and Gorilla glue containers on your bench.......are you using the Titebond III for the planking?
Derek
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Cheers Derek.
I have found with the walnut that if you have a particularly tortuous plank run you can pop the piece in the mouth and gently munch it for a few minutes . It will then be quite pliable and will bend easily. Walnut has little calorific content only a slightly oily taste. I have used the titebond III for the main frame elements and bulkheads for max strength, but when it dries on a surface it is a yellow colour (alphatic resin) so I opted to use Gorilla polyurethane which any excess cleans off the surface very cleanly with a damp cloth. Thinking ahead I need to be careful choosing the finish for the hull . It is to be varnish to show off the hull planking but I am not sure what type (definitely not water based)
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Found that some jumbo rubber bands off eBay became a help in getting the planks held down especially down by the keel
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Second planking layer now complete and the first rough sanding completed . Just given a coat of sanding sealer before the final rub down and coat of yacht
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Now really coming along, congratulations that it some really fine planking :-))
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Planking looks superb Baldrick :-)) ...is that an actual white/light colored plank as the waterline?
Will you be tempted to use Le Tonkinois varnish?... http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?67274-Le-Tonkinois-varnish (http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?67274-Le-Tonkinois-varnish)
A few members here use it, World wide.......thousands of very satisfied users O0
Derek
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Thank you Phil and Derek .
Yes the water line is a strip of blonde wood , lime I think. Saves having to paint a line on. The line is not totally horizontal but rises slight approaching the bow.
I did not like the sound of Le Tonkinois varnish, it originates from China. For my sins I have got on order a tin of Epifanes Yacht Varnish, it is a Dutch product and sold by Marinestore Chandlery not a true varnish but better. I will of course do a few sample pieces but from it's write up it is the best thing since sliced bread.
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%) .........well sorry Baldrick ......it appears that the Dutch also use Chinese Tung Oil in their Epifanes Goop....... Derek
Or maybe they get their tongues from somewhere else {-)
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You never know , the Dutch might get their supplies from Australia. I understand USA is big in the market
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You have made an excellent job of the hull and it will look lovely once varnished.
What type of timber and size was used for the first layer of planking?
Chris
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You have made an excellent job of the hull and it will look lovely once varnished.
What type of timber and size was used for the first layer of planking?
Chris
Hi Chris.
The first layer planking was all 6 X 1.5mm lime , second layer planking 6 X 1.5mm Walnut above waterline, below waterline 5 X 1.5mm mahogany
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Thanks, that's great.
Chris
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The marathon begins, might not be too bad when I get the production line refined.
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eh?.................why do you do this Baldrick? ......won't lots and lots a holes will let the water in? >>:-( Derek
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eh?.................why do you do this Baldrick? ......won't lots and lots a holes will let the water in? >>:-( Derek
Err - not really, because the rivets go through into the cross frames, the location of which I took care to mark out on the keel before finishing the planking. Inside of which is 3 layers of resin.. Also when the copper rivets have oxidised and lost their shine their will be 3 coats of varnish over the whole hull area. At present the hull is bare wood with just a wipe over of sanding sealer
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eh?....final vision sounds amazingly beautiful :-)) ...that is to a salty mind I mean %) .......would you be good enough to give us a view of the drilling jig...with explanation of use?......and what diameter are these copper inserts?
Derek
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Hi Derek.
The rivets are 0.75mm dia and I am using a 0.7mm drill in the dremel and a hand twiddle drill. The template I am using is a very thin stainless steel Modelcraft scribing template which is very flexible to lay over the curve of the hull. I have taped it to give me holes at 3mm crs. To use it, I lay the template round the hull from rail to keel and mark a line in yellow pencil then drill my first hole at the top rail, tap a pin in the first template hole and lay the template over the line. Prick the holes remove template and drill them (10 holes) then repeat round to the keel . Find I can do about 50 rivets per hour but only a couple of sessions a day as it's a bit intense . Recon I can do all the 3,000 rivets in about a month if I don't burn out.
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Decided that this is the stage to make the stern post and rudder assembly . Have deviated from the suggested arrangement which did not give me any confidence as to it's strength. My arrangement sternpost is a 7 ply sandwich . Similarly the the rudder is a composite ply build up . I am having to work this together with the stern deck construction to ensure the steering is functionable.
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Looking amazing, really nice work. Can I ask where you got the rivets from?
Regards
Colin
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Hi Colin . The rivets came from John Hemmens (eventually ) they were part of a kit of his.
The rudder has taken a fair bit of thought, this is how it has manifested . It is in primer but ready to be fixed onto the hull.
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Ahhhhhh, Ok thanks. Will carry on looking in that case.
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Back end now in order with stern post fitted, decided not to fit the rudder until I have built a suitable stand and support which will be next on the list, just have to source some decent wood for it.
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Assembled the steering gear. It works nice and smoothly but at the moment it is only jury rigged using cotton cord . I now want to replace that with something more substantial, fine chain, nylon filament, fine copper braided wire , but am having trouble finding anything the shops have in stock any suggestions welcomed. Looking for something about 0.5mm in dia
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Hi Baldrick,
you could use braided fishing line which is very strong and available in various diameters. I am sure you get it in a small quantity at any fishing shop.
Wilhelm
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You may need to consider going overscale %) ?
0.5mm diameter 300 Series stainless steel black woven wire from the Fish Tackle shops...relatively inexpensive & available in small length quantities, ZERO stretch
You would also need to manufacture your own clamping devices, [as Granny knots wouldn't be suitable, and the standard crimps of similar vein]
In addition a pair of turnbuckles for final centering and tensioning for either side of the Servo Tiller arm
Not sure of the working minimum bend radius?....so maybe 300% on the diameter of the 4 transmission wheels...but that shouldn't be too difficult to disguise the aft pair[I pose the question here between working <<<<I>>>>> bend radius and a permanent <*< set crimp
Derek
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You could always do what often appears and put a grating over the quadrant etc.
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Fishing trace (braided wire) is very stiff and you would have trouble getting it to conform to this tight angles.
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Thanks to you all for your comments, following the lines of thought that you have given me I have decided to try Beadalon bead stringing thread. As it name suggests it is sold on jewellery supplies sites. The one I am going with is a multi strand (49) stainless steel filaments nylon covered wire 0.9mm in diameter . Tremendous strength but more interestingly very flexible, as much so as thread in fact you can knot it. Just have to wait for it to come
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Well I am happy with that . The Beadalon filament works well , no slack in the system, smallest movement of the servo gives an instant response on the rudder. It all feels nice and solid. I incorporated a link piece at the servo so that the rudder could always be easily centred.
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Excellent job, looking great.
Wilhelm
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Starting to bring the superstructure forward, waiting for a bit more warmth outside so that I can varnish the hull
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decided not to fit the rudder until I have built a suitable stand and support which will be next on the list, just have to source some decent wood for it
Hi Baldrick, did you manage to find the wood you want to build the stand with yet?
Ray.
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HI Ray.
No , not yet , still sitting on desk with some chock blocks. Must get the stand sorted if I am going to varnish the hull
Cheers . B
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Still looking for some wood for the stand. In the meantime.!
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This is a work of art, nothing less!! Beautiful :-))
Hama
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And.
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Very nice, but would that Summer Garden seat in front of the deck cabin actually provide a dryish viewing location to enjoy a cuppa [of tea]? {-)
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I have to admit I thought it a bit strange. It definitely was not there during the time she was a private steam yacht , perhaps the pilotage authority put the seat there so that if not required for pilotage duties at sea she could do 1/6p trips around the harbour.
OK , done the cradle at last , took me an entire weekend but it does hold the boat rock steady
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Well done Baldrick, she looks nice and snug on her stand now. :-))
Ray.
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Getting round to the fiddly bits, mostly scratch
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Oooo! Very nice! :-))
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The time has come to varnish the hull before mounting stuff on the deck and I can still turn it upside down. I coat of the Epiphanes varnish has given a very acceptable finish but I think I will give it a rub over and a second coat for good luck.
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Ahem !! I hereby name this boat BARRY O0
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:-))
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{-) {-)
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Superb build as I have mentioned Baldrick :-)) , but is this a domestic named joke?...
I would not have thought you would have named her Bazza Pilots :embarrassed:
Will she have glass lined portlights :o
Derek
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Yes , now the varnishing is finished it is in with the portholes . What I have read about her is that after her conversion from steam yacht to pilot cutter her function was to house the pilots who spent several weeks out "on station"in the roads , a sort of floating base
and doss house and hotel to which end she carried four sets of davits for rowed cutters to transfer the pilots to and from the contracting ships. Apparently she carried all necessary facilities to stay on station off Barry Harbour (WALES) for several weeks at a time.
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Every ship needs a grease monkey (apology to all primates out there)
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Awaiting orders.
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Now showing signs of weathering and exposure to sea spray .
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