Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Painting, Finishing and Care. => Topic started by: jjolly3 on June 19, 2020, 03:09:13 am
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Hello everyone,
I painted the first coat in my garage and let it stand for a couple of days. I went back to paint, but this time outdoors and a wind kicked up. Within seconds, the paint started krazing. I understand that I rushed the job, applied a bit too much paint and now have a considerable amount of work to do. Rookie mistake :embarrassed:
[/size]So before compounding the issues, I let it sit over the past month. Now I need guidance on how to either safely remove the paint from the super structure (1 piece clear PVC) whether or what options I may have. The paint was Krylon fusion all-in one gloss white. I have used the product successfully on wood and ABS.[size=78%]
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/06/18/20200523_085503.md.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/06/18/20200523_085549.md.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/06/18/20200523_085534.md.jpg)
[/size]Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.[size=78%]
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... can you sand blast plastic? {:-{
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... can you sand blast plastic? {:-{
...................or which paint strippers are plastic safe?
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Google is very useful for advice on removing paints from plastic.
One response suggested a long soak in rubbing alcohol.
Tamiya do spay paint specific for polycarbonate that might be a good way to go. I have not used it myself
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I have just looked at the paint spec , for clean up it reads Lacquer thinners . Another trick is brake fluid, try a test and wash off with soap and hot water buy only a little bit at a time . There is a lot of work with wet and dry ,this is just what i would try do so at your own risk . As it reads on the tin Superior Adhesion, good luck
David
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If it is really stuck fast after a month of hardening then maybe consider rubbing down and filling until smooth with car body filler then a coat or two of epoxy finishing resin.
Colin
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Simply rub it down and start again NO other way filling and sanding will onoy lead to tears trust me i klnow what i am advising
Dave
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Crazing happened to me this week to. I had put top coat of white gloss on the deck and gunwales about two weeks ago. Yesterday I masked it up and oversprayed with grey primer to simulate non-slip deck covering. As it dried the primer shrank and crazed. Really annoying.
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Dave is quite right that the 'best' solution is to strip off all the paint but your model looks as if it is made of plastic ABS and too enthusiastic rubbing down could go right through the underlying plastic unless you are particularly careful especially around corner sections where the plastic will be quite thin.
A lot will depend on just how well the paint has bonded to the plastic. You might be able to 'flex' it off if you are lucky but bear in mind that the underlying plastic is likely to be very thin in places and will not accept hard sanding.
Colin
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PVC would be a strange choice of plastic I think. That said the downloadable manual makes no mention of what it is. I struggle with white terribly also. I still think manufacturers have changed formulas which doesn't quite work right yet. It looks to me like it's quite thick paint, which can cause orange peel. I personally would leave it for a good few weeks and carefully sand back with wet and dry like you would have done before applying. Instructions say it's .75mm thick so there's decent enough material to be careful with.
Reason I'm suggesting too thick is because it looks like you had it on the masked areas also. I don't know why white is more succebtible to this for me, perhaps it's naturally a tendency to apply a bit too much for coverage. Which you don't intuitively do with dark colours.
Railway guys use said alcohol / brake cleaner etc. But that's mainly on IMPS -and it can taint the surface colour. But as they're not dealing with clear parts like this the tainting isn't so much an issue so I would be cautious about using solvent based approach.
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Dave is quite right that the 'best' solution is to strip off all the paint but your model looks as if it is made of plastic ABS and too enthusiastic rubbing down could go right through the underlying plastic unless you are particularly careful especially around corner sections where the plastic will be quite thin.
A lot will depend on just how well the paint has bonded to the plastic. You might be able to 'flex' it off if you are lucky but bear in mind that the underlying plastic is likely to be very thin in places and will not accept hard sanding.
Colin
Thank you Dave and Colin. I will take my time with it and work to get it down. The Romarin product data lists the hull as ABS and the superstructure as PVC. I will go with the chemical free approach and work it a little at a time paying close attention to the edges. I appreciate everyone's input.
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..And the rest of us please!
Just out of interest PVC is an "interesting" choice, as I alluded to earlier the on-line copy of the manual didn't make that very obvious. Maybe it's in the paper copy. Never the less, without a direct product on paint link I think you made a right choice on that.
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..And the rest of us please!
Just out of interest PVC is an "interesting" choice, as I alluded to earlier the on-line copy of the manual didn't make that very obvious. Maybe it's in the paper copy. Never the less, without a direct product on paint link I think you made a right choice on that.
I appreciate yours and everyone's input and advice. The krick.de website provides additional data and lists the Hull as ABS and PVC for the superstructure. The good news is I will be more adept at painting and finish work once I wrap this one up. :-))
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After a bit of research and a quick chat with my local hobby shop, I decided to try Testors Easy Lift Off. I painted a scrap piece left over from the hull and let it soak to confirm the plastics would not be damaged and so far it works very well. I apply it and let it soak in. The paint comes off with a light brush with little effort. The areas with thicker paint just require more of the project to soak in. Once i remove the paint and clean up the upper deck, I will rub it down with 320 or 400 grit paper, tack it and wipe it down with alcohol before masking and painting. This time, I will use a primer instead of the combination paint primer product and see how it goes.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/Zdo9h)
I hope to send finished photos by mid-next week.
Cheers
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The cleaned up deck after using the easy lift off.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/02/20200709_155452.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/02/20200725_234521.jpg)
Then I rinsed the deck and wet sanded with 400 grit wet/dry paper before applying a good primer coat.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/02/20200726_111110.jpg)
I decided to apply a different color below the water line.
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With the paint properly cured, I am left with placing the electronics back in the boat and adding the last bit of detail including a bit of cleanup and minor touch up.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/02/20200802_155915.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/08/02/20200801_084153.jpg)
Once again, I appreciate everyone's help.
On to the next project.