Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: colin-d on June 30, 2020, 01:04:08 pm
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So here goes, firstly I would like to say, I build models of particular ships because I like there appearance, not because of any history, I am not really interested in its history, most of you know from my last build and probably my HMS Inflexible Build that I am not really into Warships, or the so called Greyfleet, so please create a new thread if you would like to give History lessons..
my version of the Deansmarine’s kit of a Bittern Class Sloop... selected to be a Admiralty Yacht in 1934...
There will probably be large differences with my version compared to the show room model at Deansmarine, largely because of a lengthy conversation with Mr Dean and the available fittings.. so there will probably a bit more or less.. as the case maybe..
For example, the options that I have changed:
resin ships boats
Propshaft’s and “A” Frames
single stations
there are probably a few other bits and pieces, you might recognise during the build..
I try my best to produce a decent model.. more to come once all has arrived :-))
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While waiting for the box to arrive, the research brings up a fair bit of info on the Internet, a few black and white photos...
But by all means the best info, is from the NMM, costs a fortune...
colour Plans have been downloaded..
A fair bit of red pencil, we're things have been moved around and or omitted from the original Bitten class..
One could even add more cabin space on top of the already two decks that the model shows.. only one photo that I could find on the Internet showed this arrangement.. as there was no date stamp to show when this happend.. I will stick with the two decks and omitt the 1st lords cabin..
One thing I have noticed from these plans... the propshafts do not run 100% parallel to each other..
At the motor end they are closer together than the prop end.. at this scale it's only a few millimetres, but noticeable on the plans..
Hopefully the first photos at the weekend or latest next week.. :-))
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I look forward to your log Colin.
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the kiel has been laid… but i dont realy feel as if its 1934.. {-)
all the normal Points to take into account, rubbing the hull down, sanding the top of the Hull down to the Deck line, adding filler to the inside of the Hull then sanding it down to make a nice Surface for the deck supports to be glues to.. make up the deck support beams, and generaly Transfer messurements from the plans onto the Hull..
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You have made a great start Colin :-))
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Time to install the main drive System...
I have opted for some different Propshafts and "A" Frames, reason for the Propshafts, I wanted them to have the free running part, and also a M4 boss for the Props with a 2mm shaft..
There is a larger variety of props with M4 thread than there is with a M2 thread..
Yes, the “A” Frames are a white metal fitting, I knew that Mr Dean has these, but they are not readily available, it’s a question of asking nicely
I can hear you all now…. %)
WoW a white metal fitting as a “A” frame, they will not take the strain…
I can assure you they can, I have used them before…
The centre has carefully been hand drilled out, and bushes inserted, with room for lubrication fluid…
I have made up couple of templates, to align the Propshafts
To tubes have been abraded to make sure the glue has a better chance of sticking to them..
Once all the glue had gone off, the templates and shafts were removed, some filler was applied to the outside and then rubbed down until it suited
The template from inside the Hull was then cut down to size and glued in place, a bit of a propschaft brace which also forms part of the base that will be installed for the ESC and radio gear, the bulkhead for the motors was next.. All aligned with a ammeter and once satisfied with the amount of Amps drawn, the bulkhead was glued in place.. while the motors were running..
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something quick and easy to build in the evening.. an leave the longwinded bits for the Weekend..
here we have the basic top part of the Bridge.. quite straightforward..
the curved part is for 0.5mm plastic, run through the fingers a few times to warm and bend as required..
once the glue has dried out, it can be sanded and then the rest of the Detail can be added...
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Smart assembly of parts- really like the sharpness of the pieces. Getting curved wing bridges to look even is one of the hardest things to achieve. Liking your work. :-))
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Thank you Nick...
Of course the parts, were filed and sanded to form a better join were they angle off..
When everything is at right angles, and the curved part is exactly the same hight as the rest of the side parts, then by inverting the structure you get an even top edge coming..
Making it a little easer to get everything square and the same.. ;)
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I have made up a template for the bilge keels..
The tabs enter into the hull and gut pinned from inside of the Hull, then through a syringe with a added metal outlet that has been filed down on one side, a filled of epoxy is laid on the joint, this enables a nice smooth cured joint between hull and Bilge keels
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Here is the basic build of the lower part of the bridge, really quite simple and straightforward..
Once all the main structures are built I can then experiment with the detailing..
All of the port holes have been drilled out, here is a rather simple way of making ports hole look there part.. the porthole its self is (I think in English there called “Ferrules”) multistrand cable crimps..
The eyebrow of the porthole is made from a length of brass wire wrapped around a drill bit of the appropriate size.. Cut it along the length and you get little rings, making the second cut, you get half circles, hey presto :-))
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Hi Colin nice one, good little tip, looks good
Ron
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The remainder of the Basic superstructures have been built, all rather straightforward, no major problems..
One thing i have changed is the Galley, in the kit there are a flight of stairs that go up to the Roof, just like the Accommodation structure, i have omitted this as one of the photos that i have, the galley Looks rectangular..
Now it's time to start on the detailing of which some parts are obviously not included in the kit..
Of course the laser cut wooden decks are included in the kit, fit very nicely, no trimming needed, what I have done though, the top edge on the side and on the roof of all the superstructures have received an edging strip from Slaters micro flat plastic, also available for Deansmarine..
This gives a little more effect to the superstructures and a bit more plastic for the railings to be attached to.. and also evens out the height difference caused through applying the wooden decks..
Around the top part of the bridge the windbreak has been glued in place, this is also from Slaters micro flat plastic..
of Course comments and Question are more than welcome… :-)) ok2
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Lovely work Colin. Hopefully see her in the flesh in the no too distant future. :-)) :-))
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thank you Doug..
there is a Little hope i gues…
all the main structures are reasonably simple and quick to build, it's the Detail that takes the time.. ok2
the aim is to have her Ready for the Show.. if we are allowed in the Country.. and if the Show takes place..
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One of the options that i opted for was the ships boats, i am not using the supplied vacforms, rather the resin ships boats, two gigs, two dinghies, and two motor launches, of which I have made two different types.. one open and one closed at the stern part of the launch, here is the making of the closed one, made out of 0.5mm plasticard and slaters micro square.. I recon they look the part..
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During cement drying time..
I started on the funnel, cut the Vacforming out, sand them flat, apply strips of left over plastic to ease in binding the two half’s.. For the Base and top part of the funnel three pieces of 1mm plastic were glued together, filed and sanded to shape.. Around the top part of the funnel I attached a strip if slaters micro flat.. a cage for the top of the funnel was also made, this out of brass wire.. which was also used to raise the top part of the funnel as there is a gap between the top coming and the top of the funnel..
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During more cement drying time..
Adding a little detail to the lower bridge superstructure.. And the turret blast protection, or whatever it’s called.. The three main struts are part of the kit to support the forward part of the blast plate, the side parts were then glued in place, on the photos that I have seen, there is a type of cross sections under the blast plates, with scrap 0,5mm plastic I have tried to achieve a similar effect..
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More glue drying time
Then why not start of the turrets, these are also available in two version, one as a complete resin form (rather delicate, but highly detailed), or flat packed as 1mm plastic to be glued together, which is what is supplied in the kit.. I have used the 1 mm plastic with a bit of detailing from photos
All rather simple to build, the detail bit have been made out of remains of 0,5mm plastic and Slaters micro flat, and rod, station chopped down to form the eyelets and a piece of 0,2mm nickel silver that is threaded through the eyelets..
Hope you are all enjoying the photos.. :-))
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so far so good...
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Looking good. Up to your usual standard :-))
PS might let you put it on the club stand -we'll see {-) {-) {-) {-) {-)
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y, thank you Doug...
That is O so generous of you.. :kiss:
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Very sharp work! Great details on those 4.7in guns
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Thank you very much for your appreciation James.. :-))
Glad someone is enjoying the photos.. ;)
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Stunning as always Colin
I look forward to seeing your next instalment.
Keep up the excellent work. :-))
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Thanks nick...
Working on some of the fittings for the bridge..
Next instalment, hopefully Monday ok2
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I do like how this is coming together Colin. From the lovely decking to the superb turret and funnel :-)) It does not look like a vac formed kit.
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Thanks a lot Ian... a big moral booster there.. %) :D
As you see in the photos, the funnel is definitely a vac form...
been working on a little detailing of the funnel..
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Being as all the parts that are required in the Hull, eclectics and the such likes have been completed, I can think about gluing the decks down, but before I do that, one last thing to glue in place are the Anker tubes… or maybe better known as the anchor hawse pipe…
In the kit, there are white metal fittings for the opening on the Deck (hawse pipe cover), I have opted for a different approach, out of scrap 0.5mm Plastic I have made my own plus were the Anker chain would pass over, this info has been taken from the NMM Plans..
Once I was happy, the decks where then glued in place, around the top edge of the hull and infringing onto the deck I have glued an edging strip of 0.5mm, this also brings the top of the Hull up to the same height as the wooden decks. In the kit there is some 1mm micro square, to finish the foredeck, I have opted for some 0.5mm micro square, (found in my spares box) and also altered the amount of space between them..
And while I have the micro square in my hands, I have also added a bit of detail to the blast plate from the lower part of the bridge or the upper turret, whichever way you look at it..
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As per normal, while one assembly has been worked on, it’s onto the next, there for a few assemblies can be completed in a rather reasonable time scale…
The Funnel has had a bit of its detail added, as I think I have already mentioned, I have opted for the single stanchions that are also available from Deansmarine these have been threaded with 0.2mm nickel silver from Albion alloys also available from Deansmarine..
The two direction and range finders plus the searchlight platform have managed their way through my sticky fingers.. All quit easy to assemble.. Plus I have started on the railing for the rear superstructures.. Again here are the single stanchions and 0.2mm nickel silver, I mesure the complete length required, start on one of the longer sides, place the stanchions, then pass the nickel silver through, line it all up, so I have the right amount if wire in the right place, a pinhead of superglue in the corners, then with a pair of flat long nose pliers holing all three wires bend them round the corner… thread the next stanchion onto the wire.. so on and so forth..
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Over the past week, I have been a little busy…
In the kit there are watertight shutters for the windows, these are lasered in 0.5mm plastic.. I had a little ponder over whether to use them or not.. and in the end I drew up some window frames, and go them etched, I think they turned out very nice..
While I had the Soldering iron out, I made up the two depth charge racks, still to be filled with depth charges, but for a first time build they look the part..
I have also had time to start on the paint work, to upper bridge in now nearly complete, the window panels have been slid into “U” channel plastic that has been glued to the top edge of the bridge coming.. the only fittings missing are the two semaphores..
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Very nice! :-))
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thanks.. :}
i have been contemplating over the Masts... and considering that this ship is rather skinny.. i would prefer to Keep to top weight down..
normally there are dowels in the deans kits for masts, this one has brass, that sounds to me as if there would be to much weight up top..
so i have gone for Carbon Fiber tubes 4,3 and 2 mm, they are available in good modelshops or kite Workshops..
they have been glued together with superglue..
the yellow paint is purely an undercoat, and by the way, i Hand (brush) paint all my models..
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So far so good…. All the main assemblies are complete, so i can start on the paintwork…
You might have noticed that I have not applied all of the wooden decks… I have opted to leave off the upper forward turret deck, and the stern lower deck.. Purely because I do not think these areas would have seen the upper crust of the navy, and more of a work area for the Crew..
Whilst waiting for the paint to dry, I can start on cleaning up, or making up the fittings
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all the ships boats have now been completed… awaiting their final coat of satin varnish..
continues work on all the Fittings, cleaning them up and painting them..
was not quit too sure if anyone wanted to see my Progress.. %)
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Great work! :-))
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Always watching ok2
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Very nice. Keep posting.
Colin
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I’m always watching Colin. :D
Love the detail work as always, I admire the ships boats as it’s something I always struggle with which I chicken out of by buying resin or 3D printed items. I will try to simulate what you’ve achieved on my Manxman build.
Keep up the brilliant work :-))
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Thank you chaps... one tries ones best, to achieve a good result... :-))
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here we go with this weeks installment.. {-)
Slowly but surely, some of the finished fittings, are finding their way to their respective place on the model..
The Anker’s and Anker winch are now complete, the Anker’s are not glued into the hawse pipes they are just hanging on the Anker and retraining chains, the chains were previously painted with black paint..
All the parts were either in the Kit, or available from Deansmarine, for example the retaining chains were not in the kit..
The galley chimneys have been altered slightly, thickened up and some support legs added out of 0,2mm nickel silver
On my version of the Enchantress some of the fittings have been positioned differently in relation to the prototype model that can be seen in the Deansmarine workshops, or from the photos in this forum, mainly because of photos that I have found on other websites and from the layout that I have from the NMM..
Hope you're enjoying the photos.. :-))
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i have managed to finish the two 4.7 turrets…
some might say that the barrals should be painted White, but as i said at the start, i like to bring a bit of Colour into a model..
and all of the photos i have are in black and White or a gray Colour.. ;)
back to finishing of a few more Fittings... which there are quite a few..
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Nice work Colin
and I mean that most sincerely!!
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Agree - very smart!!
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thank you chaps, so kind of you..
a couple of the Davits have also found there way onto the model…
on Thing i must note, the larger Davits on the left, are not the ones out of the kit, normally These Davits are mounted on the side of the Hull, but as i noticed that when mounted in this Position they are prone to get knocked around and broken off, as in the prototype model..
so i have opted for a variation of the original Davit and mounted them on the deck..
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Looks really smart Colin :-))
She looks very elegant and some artistic license never hurts either. It looks right despite that you know otherwise but I’ve done similar with my gunboat Gnat with certain details that I know aren’t 100% accurate but it looks correct! Keep up the excellent work.
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Exactly nick.. :-))
Artistic license, I think I use a fair bit of that.. O0 {-)
And being that this will be a fully working (competition) model, I would prefer that parts stay were they are, and that I do not have to repair the model after every competition..
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Gorgeous work Colin. It's your model so you should do what you fancy with it. Also, you don't know what funny ideas a particular admiral might have had about finish etc while he was incumbent. I presume she housed a few of them over the years?
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so Kind Ian..
Morning chaps..
The four 3 pounder saluting guns have been located on the model…
I have also started on the railings;
yes, they are the single stations from Deansmarine, threaded with a 0.2mm nickel silver wire..
As you will probably notice only the bottom half of the stations have been painted..
I tend to use this method when two opposite colours meet each other, that way I do not have to be so careful when brush painting the rest of the railings.. :-))
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The 3pounders are gorgeous Colin. I like a saluting gun, or any of their slightly larger QF siblings. That's a lot of saluting, even for an Admiral.
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thank you Ian, i thought they look rather good as well.. :-))
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The railings have been completed… in the kit there seems to be gaps in the railings were the ships boats are, the NMM layout show that the railings continue all the way along the ship, this leads me to believe that the railings where the ships boats are, would be collapsible…
Over 50 more fittings have found their way onto the model, this includes various different types of vents doted all over the deck, not all the vents that I have used were in the kit, but all available as fittings from the Deansmarine collection..
The ammo racks are also not included in the kits contents, but the NMM layout shows them quite clearly, these items are also available from Deansmarine.. Some people might be saying that the ammo racks have been incorrectly painted … but I was thinking more along the lines of, this is the admiralties ship, everything is going to be highly polished, so why not the ammo racks..
The model is nearing its completion, the rigging of the masts, the ships boats need to be placed in their respective position, plus the rigging of the davits.. still need to be completed, so there will still be a few hours more to come..
Hope your enjoying the photos...
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Rigging of the Mast's has been completed…..
so who is going to be the first to spot the stupid mistake %% %%
this mistake can be seen better in the following photo's
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Looks good. How do you remove the superstructure, for access, with the rigging in place? Do you use hooks and eyes in the rigging?
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The rear superstructure, come of with the mast and rigging all intact, closely positioned the eyes on the edge of the forward part, and the roof of the superstructure...
The forward superstructure (bridge) can be removed carefully without removing any of the rigging..
When choosing the position for these eyelets, the bridge was in place.. so I could see were the rigging would run..
I will take some photo''s with the superstructures removed.. :-))
Now it's time to get the scalpel out, and cut the rigging of the forward mast, and Re do it with the mast the correct way round..
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Morning Gents..
The forward mast has now been re-rigged, this time the correct way around..
Also attached is a couple of close up photos of the rear mast, the admiralties flag has been produced by Scale Flags..
And as you can see, the superstructures can be removed while all the rigging is in place, one thing I must say, to maybe correct this statement, between the two masts there will be another two wires/ropes, I guess these would be the radio aerials, these will have hooks on them, so they can be hooked into the eyelets on the yardarms of the masts..
The last photo for today, shows the main On/Off switch, concealed under the funnel…
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very nice indeed, sorry i was late to the party
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HI Colin ive just looked through your build an in my opinion fantastic work an a very colourfull ship very well done
all best
chris :-))
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thank you very much..
i have been making pulley's / Blocks... so as to rigg the Davits..
These items are not included in the kit.. i got them etched for me..
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This is great work Colin! Really captures the original ship.
What is the process for getting the etching done?
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your so Kind James.. your work is Briliant too.. :-))
this is my approch to Brass etching… others may differ..
First of all you need a Drawing program, I use Coral Draw, its reasonably easy to use, not as expensive as most CAD (computer aided drawing) software, and can save the Data into various Data formats.
then you need to find some one that can do etchings, and ask them at the same time what etchings process they use (Positive or Negative) and also very important what Data formats they except.
Q "what does Positive or Negative mean"
I hear the first question, there are two ways to etch and this depends on whether the metal has a positive or negative photo film on it.
if the film is positive you can do all your drawings in Black (remains) white gets etched away, of course negative is visa versa.
When doing your drawing, one of the simple rules to follow, no lines are meant to be thinner than the metal thickness your etching.
Now you can do your drawing, but thinking about that, when etching, both sides of the metal get etched at the same time, so you need a front and rear side, were the rear side is a mirrored version of the front side.
And if you would like things like nuts and bolts to stand out (relief) (2D / 3D effect) then careful thought needs to be taken as to which parts of the front side needs to be omitted, as the rear side is always the full picture.
So that would mean that the rear side is always flat and the front side now has indentations, if you would like the 3D effect that both sides of the object have indentations (relief) then you need to draw two fronts and two backs, or used the folding technique.
The following photos, show a boarder front and back, plus my version of turnbuckles were the top turnbuckle gets folded over the bottom turnbuckle, this giving a turnbuckle that is 0.4mm thick, but the bolt part is only 0.2mm thick.
also a Picture description of my pulley's/blocks
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These are my drawings that i used for the Windows on Enchantress, and any blocks/pulley's used in General..
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Very clever and impressive results.
Colin
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after a few years of not being able to have a gathering due to certain circumstances.. :police:
here are a few photos of Enchantress on the water..
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She looks stunning Colin
I remember you bringing the model to Ron’s open days pre 2019 and it was stunning then.
Great to see you back posting :-))
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Very nice indeed and very well done!
Cheers
Geoff
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Great to see these photos Colin - looks fantastic.
James
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For a HQ ship, she looks amazing! The designers managed to keep some pretty lines and provide lots of accomodation without turning it into a glorified hulk.
What a gorgeous build Colin!
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Thanks you very much chaps..
Nick and James.. yes I know, I do a lot of reading but not much posting.. liking your builds too.. ;)