Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: ChrisF on October 06, 2020, 08:06:51 pm
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Swordsman builds don't feature very often nowadays and to keep Zoomas/Bob's company I thought I'd post mine.
Mine is also at a scale of 1:12 and based on the Aerokits kit drawings but modified as it's the version with the aft cabin roof just below the coamings instead of level with the deck and the superstructure will lift off in one piece.
This was my first build and started over 2 years ago and then stalled as I wanted to plank the deck and not knowing how to do it (and trepidation!) started other builds, Faireys of course!
I was soon going to come back to it anyway but Bob's build has fired up my enthusiasm to dust it off. I'm at the stage where the hull is complete apart from spray rails etc. and once a couple of small low-spots on the sub-deck have been filled it's ready to start the planking etc.
Chris
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Hi Chris
Great to see some pics of the Swordsman. (And good to balance up this Riva forum....)
%)
I'm sure the planking will be fine..! Personally I can recommend the Titebond 3 as an adhesive, it gave me time to place, adjust, clamp and be happy it was all OK before letting it cure.
Best regards and best of luck
David.
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Thanks David
I shall get some Titebond and do a practise piece before I start on the deck.
Chris
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Hi Chris,
I was also tempted to make the bows from solid balsa wood and carve it to shape, but I have stayed with the Aerokits construction method and will take the plywood skins all the way to the front.
This does mean that I won't have to option to make such a shapely bow as yours (much like the Huntsman 31) but my last Aerokits Swordsman performed well enough so I will stay with it and look forward to seeing if it runs as well as I remember........but I have no idea how "scale" the kit plan bows are?
It would be nice to meet up when both 1/12 scale Swordsman boats are completed and give them a run together. You would be most welcome to come along to our club as my guest if you fancy a trip to the seaside sometime next year - and if the Covid situation makes it safe for us to do so.
I will take some more pictures of my build so we can compare the Aerokits construction with the lift-off cabin construction you have changed yours to. Your construction (as per P.Connolly plans) will give much greater access to everything inside the hull, so I can see the appeal and hope my big hands can still reach inside the Aerokits version as I only have the lift off cabin tops to provide access.
Stay safe!
Bob.
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Hi Bob
With hindsight and experience of builds since I started the Swordsman I could have continued the bottom skins further forward. And whilst I've got some flare in the hull I think it could have done with it extending a bit further back. Maybe tackling it in a similar manner to what I did with the Huntsman in ply though that was a bit of a pig! These are the biggest blocks of balsa I've used in a hull and don't particularly want to do it again, if you can get it that is! Once on the plane the amount of flare won't really matter! I know that you are not a fan of a complete lift off superstructure but our lake is quite small which limits how hard you can run bigger boats and you have to be careful of not hitting the buoys used for racing.
Actually regarding the flare, I've just had another look at the photo I used for reference and whilst it's difficult to see, the amount of flare doesn't look to be that great, unlike the Huntsman, so I'm happy enough with it.
Thanks for the invite, that would be good. Hopefully things will be much better then.
So much for just a couple of low-spots on the sub-deck where the side pieces meet the bow and transom pieces. I'd put the timbers to form the camber of the deck fore and aft but this has resulted in the thin 0.8mm ply "sagging" between them so I had to coat the whole of the bow area with P38. This was sanded outside and just finished before the rain came down again. A few pock marks to be filled but otherwise it's ready to start on the decking etc.
No problem with the Huntsman as I've run the formers from side to side and certainly not with the Huntress (which is another build that's crept in!) as the deck is flat. So it's on with the decks.
Chris
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Continuing with the Swordsman, with reference to photos I drew out the bow detail which I was going to use as a template. Decided to then screw the 2 pieces of 1.5mm x 100mm mahogany sheet to the deck so that I could trim it slightly oversize and then sand it to the edge of the bow so that it would be a good fit with the rubbing strips once fitted.
The shape of the bow piece was then drawn on it and cut out with the scroll saw. Had to cut 2 of the first piece as the first one broke when cutting the tight radius. Reduced the risk of it happening again by drilling a hole and cutting the radius first followed by the arms. The 2 pieces were then glued in place with slow cure CA.
One photo shows the card template ready for cutting the edge pieces out.
Chris
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Further photos.
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The edging was then cut slightly oversize and clamped to the deck so that it could be sanded back to the edge of the deck. Once this had been done it was removed and a 5mm width marked at close intervals all down the side and the dots joined up with my large curved rule.
It was then cut out on my scroll saw (carefully!), sanded to the line and then glued to the deck as per the bow pieces.
Photo shows the first edge piece glued in place and the other being sanded to the edge of the deck.
Chris
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Looking good Chris,
Once the edges are fitted - wouldn't it be easier just to plank directly to the deck?
Bob.
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Hi Bob
Tempting isn't it! When planking directly onto the deck you would either use edging as shown or the first plank but thicker than I'm using and pre-bend it before gluing down and then do the same with the following planks. Difficulty of course is holding the planks in place on the bow area though with accurate bending and CA it can be done.
Advantage with Joe's method is that using 0.5mm planks and being able to clamp easily you don't need to pre-bend. Disadvantage is having to produce an accurate ply base to sit within the mahogany. I'm going with this approach as I've got the planks already - wish me luck!
Chris
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Good luck !
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Great thread Chris and looks like you're back into the stride of things again.
Also great, is seeing the 3 hulls beside each other. Really shows the differences in hull shape/design.
Another one for me to bookmark :D
Will
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Thanks Will
I've made a little more progress, on all 3 (!), so will update shortly.
If you haven't seen it already, check out RadioJoe's Hunters Moon build.
Chris
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Just to conclude the builds here's the other 2 which are more advanced i.e. ready for paint, which I should have done this year!
One is a Huntsman 28 and the other is a River Cruiser, only one prototype was built and was based on a Huntress hull but with greater freeboard.
The other photo is another one of the Huntress, the smallest hull in the photo of the 3 shown previously, and is a version that didn't get any further than the drawing board and has a stern drive and longer cabin.
Chris
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Both look very good Chris (https://www.davejohnson.co.uk/Smileys/dave/thumbs_up1.gif)
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Chris,
You can see the Huntress hull in that river cruiser straight away can't you. A good looking vessel, but that Huntress, that looks gorgeous. It's going to be a lovely model when finished.
Will
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Thanks Will
Here is my side view of the Huntress. It has a slightly longer cabin and larger more modern looking side windows than the production Huntress and of course the stern-drive though some were fitted with them. I like building the classic Faireys but like to do something a bit different now and again.
Chris
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Chris,
If you fancy something different, then how about a stretched huntsman, like the Swordsman marine 40.
Again, with modern windows etc.
Or, a Swordsman 30, with waterjet propulsion ;)
Will
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Hi Will
Funnily enough Bob/Zooma has been discussing the possibility of building one of the stretched Swordsmen. Getting a bit big for me though at what be 40". The Swordsman 30 would be interesting though with the waterjet and what is basically a Huntsman 31 hull.
Maybe a future project as when my current builds have progressed further I'm going in another direction with a Fairey Fisherman 27 which is a motor sailer - I fancied doing something with sails! I started the drawings sometime ago and have enough done to start building the hull.
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Hi Chris,
I think the 30 would be a nice build and with the water jet as well, would make an interesting model and variation.
At the moorings by my parents, there's an Atlanta, i've often wondered if there are plans for one of those anywhere.
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Bit more progress on the Swordsman. I finished the planking and it's ready for gluing to the deck now. Before I do that though I'm going to fit the mahogany rubbing strip - reason being I can varnish it and the edgings etc. and if I get any glue on them it can be sanded off easily. Before that though I needed to make a building stand, well three actually!
Chris
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Cracking job Chris, that looks fantastic :-))
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Hi Chris,
I think the 30 would be a nice build and with the water jet as well, would make an interesting model and variation.
At the moorings by my parents, there's an Atlanta, i've often wondered if there are plans for one of those anywhere.
I did have one on my possible builds list after the Fisherman but I think after the Fisherman I would have scratched all my Fairey itches! It might be quite a complicated build as well with its curved deck and superstructure and would have to be done with double diagonal planking or maybe balsa blocks? What size is the one by your parents as there is a 26 foot and a bigger one, 31 foot from memory?
Chris
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Cracking job Chris, that looks fantastic :-))
Thanks Will - that for the Swordsman and Huntsman came out pretty well. That for the Huntress less so, as I curved the planks all the way to the prow which was stretching things a bit. With a bit more sanding etc. it should be Ok though, I hope!
Chris
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Yeah, I understand where you're coming from. Only so many you can build.
It's a 26 i believe.
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That for the Huntress less so, as I curved the planks all the way to the prow which was stretching things a bit. With a bit more sanding etc. it should be Ok though, I hope!
Chris
Everything takes time and practice doesn't it. The end of the day, you have to be happy with the work that you have done.
Will
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How about this for an........alternative Atlanta :o
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Sorry Will haven't visited this post for awhile.
Atalanta - noooooo!!!
Done a bit more on the 3 hulls. Fitted the mahogany rubbing strips and glued down the bow/side pieces of planking to the Swordsman and Huntsman. That by the transom will be carried out by fitting a piece of 0.8mm ply sub-base and then planking directly onto the deck.
I've decided to have another go at doing the planking for the Huntress but that's on the backburner for now as I need to get some more 0.8mm ply and planks.
Chris
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Looks really good Chris, great job.
I have decking to attempt ahead of me, one day.
My 31 just has a plain varnished deck at present, previous owner either felt that would do, or the job of making a realistic deck was above their skill set (as it may yet be for me, who knows)
Keep up the good work.
Will
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Thanks Will.
I did the planking adjacent to the transom today and will do that to the Huntsman tomorrow.
When I built my Huntsman 28 I just varnished the birch ply deck because I just fancied a gloss look (totally impractical on a full-size boat!) And I wasn't ready to tackle planking then. All current and future builds will be more realistic though.
Plain decks are quite common though, as two Faireys I bought had them. However with the increasing introduction of laser etched deck planking in kits it will become less the case.
Chris
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I love the planking Chris, great job. I hope mine turns out that well
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I love the planking Chris, great job. I hope mine turns out that well
davejo90, are you building a Fairey as well then?
Will
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Thanks Dave
It's quite a lot of work but worth the effort. Just fitting the toe rails. Once sanded to shape I'll give the whole deck another coat of varnish and then that's the deck ready for the superstructure.
Chris
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Hi Will,
I'm not going to hijack Chris's post so have a look here (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=65886)
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The planking by the transom was sanded. The mahogany edging was sanded down both sides of the hull to remove the varnish so that the toe rails could be glued on. The corners were then sanded off and the whole of the deck was given a coat of varnish.
This was also carried out to the Huntsman hull which is in the foreground.
Chris
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Fair play Chris, great finish, they both look really good.
I'd love to do the deck on mine properly, one day. I think it'll be a while before I consider attempting something like that though.
Will
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First time I've ever done it Will. I was inspired by and used RadioJoe's method on his Hunters Moon build. Must admit I was a bit nervous of such thin 0.5mm planks as they are very easy to break and sand through.
I'm happy that I've got some more varnish on for protection now and will give it another coat or two. In future builds that won't be as big I'll probably have a go at using thicker planks and steaming them to shape as tends to be the usual method.
Chris
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Wow they look amazing next to each other - what a fantastic job O0
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Thanks Mark.
Chris
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Great work Chris :-))
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Just from that one picture above of the two, you can see the little differences between the Huntsman and Swordsman hulls/models can't you.
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Hi Will
To some extent, but with the Huntsman being nearer the camera, the differences aren't as pronounced as they should be. So I've just taken a couple of shots that show them better.
The Huntsman is less than 2" shorter than the Swordsman but it looks like a greyhound in comparison! Dimensions of the full-size boats are: Swordsman - 33' 3" long x 11' 5" beam x 6 tonnes, Huntsman - 31' 3" long x 9' 8" beam x 4.5 tonnes. The difference in internal space is considerable particularly as the Huntsman has a narrow cabin and cockpit relative to the hull width.
Even my Swordsman weighs a lot more! Not helped by that 6mm, solid bulkhead! I've learned since then!
Thanks Daleb.
Chris
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Apologies if I am hijacking the thread but I thought it might be useful to compare the two boats as completed. These are the SLEC 1:16 versions.
Colin
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Certainly is useful Colin. I might be able to take a similar photo one day!
Chris
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Great work, Chris. I'd like to do similar planking at some point.
Sorry to be dim, but do you have a link to the Hunters Moon build you have referenced.
Many thanks.
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Thanks. I'm not good at doing links from my tablet. It's in this section, further down and started by RadioJoe.
I varied my method slightly by not using tracing paper and doing the transom areas separately.
Chris
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Chris, it was the differences in hull shape, width, bow flare and transom curve that I noticed and was referring to.
Colin, nice to see the two side by side like that.
Will
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Not much done for sometime but I've started the superstructure now which I've been looking forward to.
First the box for the cockpit area was constructed and then the first of the cabin/cockpit sides was glued to it.
Chris
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I have not seen a cockpit box on a Swordsman before Chris, but it is the same well tried construction as Precedent used on the 34" Huntsman 31 so it should work well.
Nice work - well done!
Bob.
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Thanks Bob
Yes, even though I started the Swordsman first, it is the same method that I used on my River Cruiser and and will be using on my Huntsman 31 so I'm beginning to get the hang of it now!
Chris
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Chris,
Are the cabin sides fixed/part of the boat now/when finished and the individual boxes will lift out to gain access?
Is that right or am I looking at it wrong?
Will
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Hi Will
The cabin sides are glued to the cockpit box and once the roof etc. has been added the superstructure will lift off as one. Photo attached of the River Cruiser which shows it and it will be very similar for the Huntsman 31 and the Swordsman.
I'm not a fan of access hatches, particularly through the front cabin roof and have adapted all my current 1:12 builds, including the full rear cockpit Huntsman 28 which was a challenge, to a full lift off superstructure - photo added for that.
It's quite fiddly to do, especially getting a narrow and uniform gap at the junction with the deck and if the deck is cambered the bottom of the cabin sides isn't a straight line. I like the full access that it gives though.
Chris
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Ah ha, right, I get what you mean.
Yes, the full lift off style will certainly give much better and easier access won't it.
Thanks Chris.
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I can pass on a good tip for a perfect deck/cabin side joint on model Fairey's, passed to me by a skilled pattern making pal,
known throughout his trade as 'cast matching' -
My Swordsman was epoxy/lightweight glass cloth skinned throughout before any Halfraud's paint spraying etc.
Apply a layer of Sellotape or brown parcel tape to the final finished planked deck,
(yes this is heart in the mouth, seat of the pants stuff) and up the hatch surround upstands.
Apply the smallest fillet of P38 car body filler to the bottom edge of the superstructure,
while the fillers still soft sit the superstructure on the deck squashing the filler - hence filling any gaps,
I did mine in 2 hits - one per side.
Sellotape or brown parcel tapes glossy surface should stop the filler sticking to the deck,
if it does stick (mine did) a squirt of Lighter Fluid (Ronsonol in a can) soaking under the tape will release it.
After finish sanding I applied a layer of epoxy/super fine cloth to the cabin wrapping it under/around the P38 fillet
and back up the inside wall of the cabin - just to be sure the P38 stayed in place, should it get knocked.
Hope this is of interest, its scary old modeling but the results are worth the extra effort. regards Paul
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Thanks for the tip Paul but I think I'll pass on that! I'm nervous enough just using small pieces of masking tape on the planking! I'm happy enough with the fit of those I've done so far. I've used cling film over the deck and upstands when gluing the sides to the box so that they don't get stuck to the deck. I didn't on my other builds and they did stick slightly but as not planked no harm done.
Is yours an Aerokits Swordsman or one of the smaller SLEC ones?
Chris
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There is another, less fraught, dodge for improving the deck cabin joint and that is, with the cabin in place, to glue a thin piece of stripwood along the base of the cabin sides, front and back. It can either be painted to match the cabin side and look unnoticeable or could be treated as a typical wood 'kicking strip' as is often fitted to protect paintwork from the shoes of people walking around the deck. You still need a bit of clingfilm under the joint in case any glue dips down though.
Coln
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Colin, I had forgotten to mention spending three intense days of flatting down the experimental (first attempt 12 years ago) epoxy deck
with finer and finer grades of wet&dry until I'd achieved a perfect glass finish - resulting in giving myself 2 very painful tennis elbows ! -
all this before starting the crazy fraught P38 saga. Lol.
Chris, My model is the original 33" Philip Connolly version from MAP plans range, converted to open rear cockpit,
built as homage to the great Phil - who was a member of my local model boat club way back in the 1960's,
you may have seen it at the annual Warwick show on King Lear Model Boat club stand along with many more Fairey's.
My pattern maker pal Tony mentioned above, built the giant 1/5th scale Huntsman 28 powered by twin Honda 50cc four strokes.
Paul
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Hi Paul
Interesting that you converted it to the full open cockpit version, you'll have to post a picture up. No doubt I have seen it at the Warwick show. Wow, your mates Huntsman 28 must be a beast!
Chris
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The roof beam at the mid-point and the front window are now in place. Once the glue has gone off the top of the window can be sanded down to the final level ready for planking the roof.
Chris
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Looks really good Chris, especially loving the deck, that looks fantastic.
Will
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Thanks Will, it is (at last!) really starting to take shape now.
Chris
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With that deck and cabin shape, it most certainly resembles a Fairey now.
Nice one Chris.
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The beast fifth scale -
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The beast fifth scale -
WOW :o
That's impressive, what a great looking model. It must look fantastic and so realistic on the water.
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I bet it sounds good as well. Have you got any shots with the top on? And nice planking.
You'd need a big lake!
Chris
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Here's a link to a video of early testing on a windy day at Fleetwood, choppy conditions even for a model of this size !
she runs very quietly - 4 stroke's chosen deliberately to keep the noise down, cooling them however is another matter.
Paul
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Oq336xoNbg
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Very impressive. It was a bit choppy wasn't it! No problem for a Fairey though.
It's a big version of mine with the lift off superstructure.
Chris
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Fair play, she looks fantastic on the water. Sounds good and she's not very noisy.
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Made a start on the roof planking using 3 x 9mm obechi which once finished will be sanded to profile. Might be a few days though as I don't have enough timber to finish it and have had to order some more. I needed some more ply etc. anyway and will use some thinner obechi for the rear cabin roof as the base for the planking to match the deck.
Whilst waiting I will drop back onto the Huntsman 31 and start the superstructure.
Chris
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Two for the price of one here!
As said have dropped back onto the Huntsman 31 to start the superstructure. Have built the cockpit box as per the Swordsman and have printed out the cabin sides to check for fit and now ready for cutting out.
Chris
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Making progress on the superstructures. Won't be doing much more on them for a bit as going back to the Huntress and starting on the superstructure etc.
Chris
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Morning Chris
Nice planking, did you just use clamps, or pins too..?
Nice to see the builds taking shape.
David.
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They will soon be on the water Chris!
It will be nice to see your Fairey fleet together when they are all finished - all at 1/12 scale they will look really good!
Bob.
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David - the roofs are obechi planks glued at the ends with Slo Zap and along the edges with a/resin and then clamped or weighed down at the ends until the CA has set. Then left overnight before sanding. Like yours, the rear roof planking of the Swordsman is the first layer and will be overplanked to match the deck.
Bob - a way to go yet and need to wait for spraying weather but yes, they are getting there. Watch this space for a group photo!
Chris
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Hey Chris...
Must be time for an update...
Just saying :-))
David.
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:-) David!
Was going to do one once a bit more progress made but here we go. I should have called the thread something else as there are 3 builds going on!
The downside is that less progress is made rather than doing them one at a time but the upside is that I will have multiple boats to play with, I mean run, namely 5!
Right. I'm working on the Huntress and there was a step backwards. I was never really happy with my first attempt at planking the deck, which was harder than the other two as more bending was required, and having bought the additional ply and planks I set to and did it. It's not perfect, but better (good job I'm not building a Riva!) and will be fine with some strategically placed deck furniture! Once it was glued in place I added the mahogany toe rails and upstand for the superstructure.
I've also made the battery box and made a start on sorting out the steering for the stern-drive. I'm using nylon snakes in a push/pull configuration and they will be longer than shown as the pivot and servo will go in the cabin.
I need to do a bath test to more accurately position the battery before doing more on the steering and whilst I could do this without the superstructure it's better to do it with it and so I've made a start on that. Parts have been drawn up and cut out of birch ply ready for assembly tomorrow.
Chris
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It's not too late to do a seperate thread on the Huntress Chris. :-))
Your out-drive version will be unique, but I am sure there are a few more of us that also have a Huntress kit to put together that could contribute and find the thread very interesting.........and helpful.
You will be a very brave man if you attempt to launch all five of your models for the first time on the same day.......... %)
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That looks spot on Chris.
The hull looks so clean and crisp and that deck looks great :-))
You can tell straight away that it's a Fairey, even with the modification of a stern drive.
Will
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Is this whetting your appetite Will to start yours and build with nice fresh timber!
Bob - I'm loathe to start a new thread as I've already got my detailed build blogs on Model Boats forum from the start of each build. As you know I started this thread to keep your Swordsman company but it's broadened to include my other builds as otherwise there wouldn't be much to say!
I've modified my Huntress quite a lot, not just the stern-drive, but longer cabin and repositioned bulkheads to suit but would be happy to contribute to any other Huntress build threads. Indeed one thought I've already had is (given the construction method) rather than carry out the planking on a separate sub-deck and glue to the deck, is to carry out the planking, even using thicker planks, directly onto the deck, before construction starts. This has the advantage of being able to clamp planks to all parts of the deck and not have to worry about then gluing a sub-deck down. And if all goes wrong it will be easier to remove planks from a substantial deck.
Chris
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Yes it is a bit Chris, but I have so many boats all in need of work, I'm trying to improve and practice my skills(if you can call them that) on the resto/rescue models first before I leap into a full build.
I like that idea regarding the deck Chris, not that I need worry about planking a deck yet, let alone the Huntress one. Definitely something to keep in mind when I do get to that point though.
Will
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Bob - I'm loathe to start a new thread as I've already got my detailed build blogs on Model Boats forum from the start of each build. As you know I started this thread to keep your Swordsman company but it's broadened to include my other builds as otherwise there wouldn't be much to say!
Indeed one thought I've already had is (given the construction method) rather than carry out the planking on a separate sub-deck and glue to the deck, is to carry out the planking, even using thicker planks, directly onto the deck, before construction starts. This has the advantage of being able to clamp planks to all parts of the deck and not have to worry about then gluing a sub-deck down. And if all goes wrong it will be easier to remove planks from a substantial deck.
Chris
Chris - I planked my Swordsman aft cabin top directly onto the plywood skin using reasonably heavy planks (1.5mm I think) and also planked the cockpit using the same strip wood directly onto the 4mm plywood floor.
When I go back to working on the Swordsman again - if I can make the time (and enthusiasm) to plank the deck - it will be directly onto the ply skin decking using the same weight of obechie and mahogany strip wood.
Pictures of my first efforts at planking can be seen on the 1/12 scale Swordsman thread, and any faults or problems that can be seen are not due to the method - only my poor workmanship, dodgy eyesight and/or shaky hands %)
Enjoy your weekend.
Bob.
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Hi Bob - it's easy enough doing straight planking it's when you have to bend it sideways that the trouble starts! Using thicker planks you have to steam and pre-bend them before gluing them in position and you can't really clamp them down to the bow area.
That's why I put off planking the decks, the Swordsman in particular (that was the first build I started) until the dry planking method on a ply sub-base came to my notice. It has its shortcomings but I fancied having a go at it.
Bit more done on the Huntress superstructure. Cabin sides/coamings glued to the cabin bulkhead followed by drawing up the roof beam and front window, cutting them from ply and gluing them in place.
It's really looking like a Fairey now!
Chris
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The answer is Fairey cake :-))
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You said it yourself Chris, really starting to look like a Fairey now.
I'm certainly following with interest and making mental notes (from all of your Fairey builds), ready for when I start building my Huntress and for working on the Huntsman. No doubt I will want to add a Swordsman to the fleet at some point in the future too.
Keep up the good work.
Will
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More like Fairey dust Bob!
I know that you want to get some experience on your refurbs Will but in some ways it's easier to do a new build. The Huntress is pretty simple and as I've said before is a lovely little boat. You could build it as a race boat and just paint the deck.
Not sure if I've asked before but is the Sarik kit a proper kit with laser cut parts or is it just a wood pack?
Chris
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I get what you're saying Chris. I started on some of the 'projects' first, because it doesn't matter as much if I get things wrong, especially with the state that the Sea Rover and one of the Sea Commander are in. That was my thinking anyway.
To be honest, I possibly would build it as a race boat. I'll have to make that decision when the time comes as to whether to just paint the deck, or plank it. Will see how brave I am feeling at that point.
At least it comes with the plans, so I would be able to build another in the future as a traditional pleasure Huntress and if the first one doesn't get the planked deck, then the second one really should.
The Sarik kit doesn't come with any fittings or anything like that, so basically a laser cut pack with plan and build guide. I think (read HOPE!) it's got a build guide included :o
I will check tomorrow evening.
Will
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Just for a bit of fun I've taken a photo of the whole Fairey build fleet! Relative sizes are all wrong, the Swordsman being in the far corner. Huntress in the foreground, now with the cabin roof planked.
Chris
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Now that is an impressive sight. But once they're all finished it'll be a real dilemma which to use on a Sunday morning...
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There's another two in the pipeline as well and I've got tp buy all the ESCs etc. yet!
Chris
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Apparently that is a "troop" of Fairey's! :-))
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Nah! A Fairey Grotto! :-))
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Nice one Tony. I thought you were going to say "I rest my case as far as Faireys all look the same!" :-)
Chris
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Any excuse to go out and play with the fairies eh Chris? %)
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I couldn't possibly comment without being admonished!
Chris
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I should have called the thread something else as there are 3 builds going on!
Chris
You could have called the thread Fairey Tales {-)
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Very good! :-)
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Great work!
don't give up on the planking, every Fairy boat deserves to be planked!! :-))
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Thanks Red.
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Fair play Chris, they all look fantastic.
The planking is clearly well worth all the time and effort[/size][size=78%] [/size]when those sorts of results are possible.
All that's missing from those pictures are a couple of baking ovens and maybe the odd bare hull, then it really could be a scene from the Fairey boat yard.
Will
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Now there's an idea!
Chris
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Not much progress on the Faireys lately but I've started fitting the strakes on the Swordsman. Not one of my favourite jobs!
Chris
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Finished fitting the strakes to the Swordsman and those to the Huntsman 31. Well on with fitting those to the Huntress.
Doing one is bad enough, never mind three!
Chris
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The joys of more than one project at a time. By the third one, you’ll have sussed how to do it! They both look the part.
Is that styrene triangular section? No whittling them like me {-)
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Hi Stu
Yes they are 60 degree triangular section styrene, 3mm on the Huntsman and 4mm on the Swordsman. Been thinking about giving it a go for sometime before having a go at cutting some square section timber down.
Pretty pleased with how they have turned out.
Chris
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Well that's the strakes fitted to the Huntress as well. The shortest hull by some margin but I've fitted 4 strakes per side. This is where the small 3mm section comes into play.
Next job will be fitting the prop shafts into the Swordsman and Huntsman and we shouldn't be too far off doing some painting then.
Chris
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Tidy work there Chris.
The strakes make such a difference to the look of the model don't they.
Also, the Huntress hull looks Sooooooo beamy in comparison to the Huntsman and Swordsman.
Looking forward to seeing them all with some colour on.
Will
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Yes, they certainly do Will.
The Huntress does look beamy, certainly compared with the Huntsman being long and narrow, but the photo makes it appear more so. The Swordsman is a much bigger hull.
The Huntress hull has become one of my favourites and may well be the only one of the Faireys that I build another of at some point.
Your list of boats looks to be getting longer!
Chris
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The Huntress is such a pretty boat isn't it. It's a favourite of mine, but the Swordsman just pips it to the post.
What variation or modification would you do if you did build another one?
Yes, guilty, I have picked up two more Aerokits boats, 18" Sea Urchin and 20" Fast Patrol boat. The Sea Urchin is pretty complete, not much woodwork to do on it and try to squeeze in all of the rc gear, battery and motor, as they're only small boats.
I haven't had any time to work on any of them of late, been concentrating on our campervan conversion when weather allows (the downside of working outside the house and not under cover.
Will
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Glue left to fully dry for the strakes to the Huntress and then the ends trimmed and sanded at the transom.
Yes, the Huntress is a pretty little boat and I particularly like the long cabin version I'm building. If I build another one I've thought about doing the naval version but it would still look too similar to my other Huntress (built by Dave Milbourn) so it would probably be a race boat as I wouldn't have to plank the deck!
Plans and kits for the Huntress have the rudder in some way from the stern, like other Faireys, for ease of build and water-proofing, but I'd like to have a go at positioning it on the outside of the transom like the full-size boats.
I wouldn't have been doing much on the boats either, as I would have started doing more "summer" type things but the run of inclement weather has allowed me to spend time on the builds and get the strakes fitted. A job I'm glad to have got ticked off so that the builds can progress and see some paint at some stage.
Chris
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Great to see the two hulls side by side Chris and see how much of a difference there is between the two.
Loving the contrast of the light deck and darker gunwales, that looks great. Not that there is anything wrong with the DM one either of course.
I don't think that it would be too hard to make a rudder set up as per the full size Huntress if you do build another one at some point.
Because it would be partially hidden/obscured from sight by the boarding ladder on the transom, i suspect many people wouldn't be too bothered by a non scale rudder position and the easier set up would make life easier for them too. It would make a nice change to see one in the correct position though wouldn't it.
I'm looking forward to having a go at building my one at some point in the future. 23", so won't look out of place with my almost 1:12, 34" H31.
Will
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Neat job on the strakes Chris, they do give the hulls an authentic look, and should make some nice water rails to plain on. :-))
Joe.
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Thanks Joe, yes, they certainly set the hulls off.
Work has stalled at the moment due to doing "summer" things but it is raining this morning!
Chris
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I did do some more work before the summer recess but not enough to start painting. I failed again! O0
But recently I've started again and got the prop shaft glued in, just needs fairing with P38.
Want to do the same with the Huntsman 31 but that's stalled until I can source the motor mount that I want - see Wants section. Otherwise will have to make one.
Chris
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Hi Chris
Great to see progress, I also lost a few months over last summer and autumn, trying hard with my build now to get ready for this summer...
Can't help with that particular motor mount, other than I have some aluminium angle that looks about right, happy to send some up if that helps.
Best regards
David.
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Thanks David.
I'm going to try a nylon mount I found amongst my spares, though it's not my favourite material, can't beat a bit of aluminium! Failing that I will make one.
Chris
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Thanks David.
I'm going to try a nylon mount I found amongst my spares, though it's not my favourite material, can't beat a bit of aluminium! Failing that I will make one.
Chris
Why not try a cast alloy water-cooled mount Chris?
They are as "cheap as chips" (used to be !), quite small, and they easy to find on eBay. They are as "solid as a rock" and give universal fitting for any type of brushed or brushless motor type that you could ever want to use in any of your Fairey fleet.
As they are adjustable for angle (and motor mounting screw width) and are easy to remove from the side cheeks that can be bonded into your hull to give easy access when cleaning or making any repairs or changes,
There is no need to connect any water cooling tubes to the nipples if you prefer not to use water cooling - the cast alloy mount acts as a reasonably good heat sink in any case - and you will always have the option to go water cooled if you should ever feel the need in the future.
Available from a number of sources - the link I sent you is for a UK supplier that I buy mine from. :-))
Bob.
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Just been asked about progress on my Huntress stern-drive build. Away for a couple of days but will be trying it on the water very soon.
Chris
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You will get it wet if you put it in the water Chris {-)
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I'll just have to risk it Bob! :-)
I've got a roll of kitchen towel in the car!
Chris
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That's a lovely couple of boats there Chris :-))
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I like the wide hardwood cappings on top of the cabin sides.
You did well to bend them to shape around the tight curve where they meet the deck :-))
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Thanks Mark. If you look at the previous page there is actually five. The Huntress is the one in the foreground, so has come on a bit.
Bob, the capping is actually in two pieces, couldn't quite form the bend by just steaming so had to resort to some saw cuts.
Chris
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Looking great Chris, thanks for the update :-))
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Thanks, I'm very pleased with how it is turning out. Lake trials were carried out this morning, I'll post photos in a bit.
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After reversing the steering in the Tx and increasing the amount of throttle the Huntress performed well at slow and fast speeds and cornered in a nice controlled manner helped by its weight. It even reversed quite well. It was dry inside with no water going in through the open windows or via the holes for the stern-drive. Successful trials and very happy with how it performed. Just got to finish it off now!
Chris
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Looking good and on the water!
%%
nice looking lake you’ve got there.
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Thanks Stu.
About time I know! Though it is the last one I started!
Chris
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Thanks Stu.
About time I know! Though it is the last one I started!
Chris
Well you’re way ahead of me!
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Fair play Chris, the Huntress looks spot on on the water and certainly appears to perform well too :-))
Will
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Thanks Will.
I was really chuffed. Couldn't risk a shot of it turning at speed with the Tx in one hand and camera in the other! But it handled like a true Fairey!
Chris
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So you should be Chris, credit where it's due. The attention to detail that you put into your builds, they're all going to look fantastic on the water and no doubt handle as expected.
I'm really pleased that you've got to this stage. Must be a huge relief being able to carry out sea trials on the 1st one after so much time and effort.
Will
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This one was the unknown quantity and therefore the most interesting, what with it having a stern-drive and it's weight at the back.
Chris
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Hi Chris,
Can I ask where you got your triangle section from for the spray rails?
EDIT - asked about keel thickness originally but re-read the article just now and can I see it’s two 3mm parts laminated that overlap in the Dave M 1/12 plan.
I am planning (hoping? dreaming?) to build a 1/12 Huntress (Dave M plans from 2017 Model Boats, MB2131) and the plans are in the post from Sarik, the Oct 2017 Winter Special has a great build guide mentioning every part material excluding the thickness of the Keel.
Very much enjoyed your build threads, not sure I can cope with building one though, I am amazed at you building several Fairey's at a time!
Paul
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Hi Chris,
Can I ask where you got your triangle section from for the spray rails?
EDIT - asked about keel thickness originally but re-read the article just now and can I see it’s two 3mm parts laminated that overlap in the Dave M 1/12 plan.
I am planning (hoping? dreaming?) to build a 1/12 Huntress (Dave M plans from 2017 Model Boats, MB2131) and the plans are in the post from Sarik, the Oct 2017 Winter Special has a great build guide mentioning every part material excluding the thickness of the Keel.
Very much enjoyed your build threads, not sure I can cope with building one though, I am amazed at you building several Fairey's at a time!
Paul
I found it impossible to find any triangular section hard wood anywhere when I wanted to add the "strakes to my LesRo Rapier restoration and my 1/12 scale Swordsman build, so I decided to make my own triangular section "strakes" from hardwood strips.
This link will show you how I made them:- https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,65518.125.html (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,65518.125.html) post 140 - 145
inclusive.
Also see here with more info about them and see them being fitted on my restoration Rapier hull.:-
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,64555.100.html (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,64555.100.html) post 104 - 124.
Since then, I have made triangular section strakes to fit several more of my new build and restoration models, and the Rapier has clocked up well over 100 hours actual running time with them fitted with no problems or failures..........and they look good :-))
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Hi Paul
As Bob says, despite searching high and low, we have been unable to source triangular timber. Well, we did find one place that does dolls house materials, but they wouldn't supply at more than 300mm.
Bob's method is fine for his larger models but not for a Huntress which has much smaller strakes. I need to check but I think I used 4mm. I used 60 deg Styrene strip which I got from Deans Marine. Being 1000mm lengths be aware the postage is very expensive!
Another method, which I used on my Huntsman 28 (which is basically a longer Huntress) was to use square Basswood and sand it to a round profile. See photo.
Great that you are planning on building a Huntress. They are lovely little boats and probably my favourite Fairey. Don't be wary of building one as Dave's (the late great) method makes it pretty easy and straightforward. I actually used three 6mm layers of ply for the keel to give plenty of meat for the prop tube and cut the deck out as one rather than two pieces. Model Boat Magazine forum has my detailed builds for both my Huntress, albeit stern-drive, and River Cruiser, based on the Huntress and very similar.
Anything you want to know, just ask.
Chris
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Another tip Paul. Don't use Lite Ply! The weightsaving is negligible and unnecessary as the hull is very bouyant and brushless motors are powerful!
Use some nice birch ply from the likes of SLEC.
Chris
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Talking of the River Cruiser I did pop down the lake for trials.
I shall try a heavier battery, further back , but other than that I was very pleased. The Overlander brushless motor and HobbyWing Quicrun ESC allowed me to move off very smoothly and slowly and trickle along as befits this type of boat.
You can clearly see the increased freeboard compared with the Huntress, which as per the full-sized prototype I shall reduce visibly by the addition of a dark blue band under the deck rubbing strip.
Chris
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Paul
Here is the keel. My prop tube is 8mm outside diameter so needed some extra in the width.
Chris
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Hi Zooma,
Yes I have your threads bookmarked, I came across them in my endless reading on Fairey builds during "the great indecision of last week". I don't have a bandsaw, but your thread made me want one not just for the strakes! I already started drinking more tea for the Yorkshire template supplies.
Hi Chris,
Thanks for all the feedback, I have read your lengthy thread on the MB forum and saw the dollhouse supplier comments somewhere on my travels. Strakes are some way away yet, DHL have my plan somewhere rattling around the back of the van to be delivered from 12:45-14:45, he writes at 15:45...
I originally was going to have a crack at the SLEC 1/8th Huntress, but the more I read the more I fancied a go at building from plans. I was also debating if a smaller model was more practical to transport when doing family stuff as well, but the Huntman needs dual props to do it justice and the smaller 1/16th SLEC looked short of space for that. The 1/8th Huntsman has a lot of room but is a bit big at 47", already have a family heirloom 54" boat to store - I found the Vic Smeed plan as well (mm680) in that size/scale.
I decided to go with Dave's plan for the 1/12th Hunstman as the build article is pretty clear for a newbie to follow, and I found there is a 1/12 huntsman (mm1061) so I could always expand the fleet at the same scale and 1/12th huntsman would have room for dual motors without being too big. The more recent plans Dave drew up seem to be much more detailed and easier to follow than very old plans - having looked at one recently in detail for a Vic Smeed design 60 years old.
Complete over-analysis complete, I ordered from Sarik Dave's 1/12th Huntress plan and the older 1/12 Huntsman plan for "later" as postage on plans is expensive and at £13.50 at the time Scrooge McHobby decided it was worth getting them at the same time.
First I need to start simpler with a Police Launch for my nephew for Christmas as a warm up act (nothing like a deadline to keep moving), again I looked at SLEC kit but ordered the Veron plan from Colin Smith and plan to build from plan as a warm up to the Huntress.
I will start my own build thread once I actually get started, but can I ask two quick questions about your Huntress picture above:
- What prop shaft did you use? I want "from Russia with love" performance so I was debating a 5mm shaft in an 8mm tube to remove that as a point of trouble if I get carried away on the motor side.
- Can't quite read the text on your motor in the picture, is it something like a 3536 1000Kv(ish)? (I have a table of all the motor combo's I found in peoples build threads
Once I get a good look at the plans, order going into SLEC for the wood and I will swap the lite ply for real ply thanks for that tip.
[/size]
[/size]Paul
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Hi Paul
Great to see someone else getting sucked into all things Fairey!
The photo is actually my River Cruiser as my Huntress is stern-drive. The motor would probably give good performance but was sized (over-sized as is my want!) for slow/medium performance. Dave used a Turnigy D2836/11 750kv in one of his prototypes for the drawings, which I have (see previous posts) and goes well on 3S.
I don't build light though and with brushless you don't need to. So I'd go for a 35mm dia in the 900 to 1500kv range so something like the Overlander 3536/08 1050kv or the 3536/05 1500kv on 3S for more speed - you can always limit the throttle! So that in the River Cruiser would cut the mustard!
I use the Raboesch Maintenance Free prop shafts and the 4mm shaft with 8mm is plenty man enough. Was going to use a 5mm/10mm in my Huntsman 31 but it was way too big and heavy.
I had a 47" Huntsman 31 but found it a bit cumbersome. My Swordsman at 33" is around the biggest I like to go and the Huntress is a nice size, not too small.
Kinda wished I'd built one of my Faireys with twin motors but once production got under way!
Chris
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Coming on slowly!
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What a wonderful fleet! :-))
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That's Kit. I've done the drawings for two more!
Chris
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It's a magnificent view of superb boats beautifully done. :-)) :-)) ]
All of them are generally processed with comparatively high freeboards and wide beams(some)
by which I suppose they must be so seaworthy. :-))
Looking forward to seeing them sailing gracefully on the water in the near future, if possible by video. :-))
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Thank you for your kind words Kiyo.
It will be good to get them on video at some point.
Chris
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Wow Chris what a lovely fleet you have built - your carpentry is absolutely lovely :-))
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Thanks Mark, much appreciated.
Chris