Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Steam => Topic started by: Jerry C on October 23, 2020, 11:24:30 am
-
My second steam launch is almost finished so I thought I’d get ahead of the game and ordered a Stuart twin launch engine casting set. As I type it is on its way from the UK via FedEx. Milling attachment, BA tap and die set and four jaw chuck also coming. Saving up for a small rotary table and chuck. Annoying really as I’ve got them all in UK care of my nephew Ben as I gave them to him in return for his lone of his Peatol lathe. Need something to do or I’ll go mad stuck in Canberra for another 6 months. I’ve always wanted one of these but you can’t buy them ready made so only way is to make one myself. Glued to YouTube learning atm.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/10/23/A1863025-7EBF-4950-B806-D2D6745890C1.png) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aKs2V)
Jerry C.
-
Hi Jerry,
Do you think that a Peatol lathe will handle such a big lump of an engine.
If you look up the late Mick Browns thread of his Wide a Wake build he has shown picks of the Stuart launch build on this forum.
WIDE-A-WAKE LAUNCH FOR STUART TWIN ENGINE (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,30710.msg303300.html#msg303300)
« on: May 31, 2011, 04:12:15 PM »
This will give you some idea of its size.
George.
-
Hi Jerry,
Sorry but I gave you the wrong thread, so here is the link to Mick's Launch engine build which should be of help to you.
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,28450.0.html
George.
-
Hi George, thanks for all that. I’m using a Chinese mini lathe. Quite a few built with these. Where there’s a will etc.. looking forward to tips from you. Hope you’re keeping well.
Jerry C.
-
this should be great to watch, at least you don't have deal with large bore on the compound twin, If you don't have one already the first thing I would make is a simple tapping fixture,, the second thing is make sure you have 5 and 7BA taps in HSS, the number of holes is amazing. Stuart is posting that both twins will be available in pre-machined and completed engines in the near future,(thinking that the prices might be on the high side) look over all the parts well when the kit arrives,, my smaller piston rings were on the crappy side of things,, stuart did replace when I sent them a close up photo.. Keith Appleton has a youtube video series on rebuilding a twin, lots of good info.. my crazy is using a Stuart compound block and a few other kit parts.. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3018430-US-navy-28ft-steam-cutter
-
tghsmith(can’t keep calling you that Smudge). Thanks for that. I watched the whole series yesterday in fact, taking notes. Also “Blondihacks” is quite informative on techniques and stuff. I’ve got a full set of BA taps and dies coming from China in a sampan. Already made tapping guides. Missing my borrowed Zeus Tables but ok at trigonometry. Next thing on the list is rotary table and chuck. I’ve got one already but it’s in UK.
Jerry C.
-
I’ve just read through Patternmakers build of this engine and it ended abruptly when he died. The first person I followed and inspired me to build “Wear” also died on the third row of planking. It made me think how lucky we are to be able to live on and pass on our skills and inspire others through Mayhem when we “cross the bar”. It’s also a little concerting!
Look after yourselves, just saying.
Jerry.
-
This should be an interesting project, will follow.
-
The castings from Stuart arrived in good order on Friday via TNT. We’ve been to the seaside(Ulladulla) so nothing done over the weekend. I made a start today, pouring over the plans, making notes, finding what’s what. There are no instructions, pictures or advice. Just a set of plans. I sheet is for the non reversible engine and a smaller sheet showing the differences when adding Stevenson’s reversing gear. All you get are the castings and fastenings, no barstock,copper pipe, no stainless steel for columns piston rods and valve spindles. Aside from the concentric block castings and a concentric straps and rod castings everything els is diy. I spent most of today fettling the castings on my belt sander, grinding off the flash and where possible bringing them close to size as per plans.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/09/F2C9FA73-84F8-44B1-8DDB-0444EFD88EA8.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ac5Up)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/09/B6E09040-E456-4535-B69F-B9FC0858F0DA.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/acQdP)
Once I’d finished fettling I fitted the new 3” independent 4 jaw Chuck and took 55 thou off the base of the cylinder casting. This is half what’s needed to bring to size and centred on the steam ports so they’ll end up centred on the block. I’ve not turned any cast iron before and as I’d cut through the hard skin it cut very easily using only 10 thou cuts and ending with a 5 thou polish. That was it for today so tomorrow will flip the part in the chuck and repeat. That’ll be the height of the cylinder block sorted next will be the length. For that I’m going to use the little milling attachment, £35 from India on eBay. Only problem with it is no vice on it and can’t find any thing that’ll suit so I’m looking at making a pallet which I can bolt to the vertical slide with 4 bolts and T-nuts. I can then st the mill up sideways on with the cylinder block bolted through the cylinders and then I can mill both port faces bringing it to size.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/09/637F1770-725D-4FF9-876E-5DF7A1ED69AF.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/acET9)
Then I’ll have a think about exhausts and inlet manifolds and drilling for the support columns, threading for drain cocks and cladding not to mention valve chests and covers.
Jerry C.
-
Evening Jerry.......you sure don't mess about do you! ;D ......so will be watching on each day as usual............
Does your new smaller lathe mave metric graduations? if so will you be converting the drawings from inches to mm as a whole?
Derek ........[bogged down with Covid-19 Rules & regulations <*< for Live Steamers]
-
Nice start Jerry keep the updates coming :-))
-
Thanks Mark, Derek, I’ve wanted one of these since I was a lad. I needed something to do during our next 6 months internment or I’d go mad. Perfect excuse/ reason to fork out the cash. This Mini lathe is a fair bit larger than the Taig/Peatol I used before. People have built this engine on Taigs so no worries with this Chinese job. The Taig is imperial being American. This one is also Imperial but I’m happy either metric or imp. Saw some 1/4”x 35mm bolts in Bunnings a few minutes ago!
Today I topped, bottomed and double ended the cylinder block to general sizes. The port channels were blocked with sand and the tried and tested method of using a paper clip to clear them out proved impossible as every draw we pulled out and emptied was paper clipless. Never seen the like in all my days, there’s ALWAYS a paper clip. Did however find a safety pin which was pursuaded to follow the wiggly channels from faces to bores. They appear to be passing evenly, that’s when I got a gob full of grit, it’ll be with me for days.
I put the cylinder block to one side and loaded the base casting into the 4 jaw chuck and cleaned off top and bottom before bringing to specified height. Tomorrow I’m going to have to use the milling attachment to face of the ends then using the rear centre mounting lug as a datum I can drill all the holes for the columns and crankshaft bearing cap holes.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/10/58796D7C-E6B6-48DC-9DEE-C75029EB709F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/antES)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/10/37B96BCA-7A97-4DB8-A92B-DD9148873368.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/anf9D)
Jerry C.
-
Hi Jerry,
You might consider what I did on my launch engine base plate, I was concerned about the bottom half of the main shaft bearings being part of the base plate casting.
I thought that it was very bad practice and poor engineering thought, i.e. what happens in the future if the bearings ware, how do you take up the slack in the bottom half of the bearings, so I decided to make split bearing blocks by facing the top bearing covers and soft soldering them to a peace of Gun metal, facing them to size and marking off the hole centres leaving 1/8" of metal from the bottom of the bearing to the top of the base casting always remembering to add on to the piston rods, the columns, the slide valve rods, the difference created by doing as I did.
I remember Mick having long thoughts on how to machine the base casting to give a clean Finnish to the bearing and as he didn't have a long reamer to bore and ream on the same fixing he used a ball nosed cutter and finished off by file and emery cloth, can't remember what sort of Finnish he achieved but I do know that he spent hours running in with oil and [size=78%]"T" cut.[/size]
Her is a few pics of my method.
Regards
George.
-
I used this page for info on methods,, most of it should apply to the twin also..
http://compound.modelengines.info/
-
Hi T.G.
This link will help Jerry a lot, I wish that I had known it when I built my engine, especially the base machining to take the main shaft,
Still I think I would still have gone the way that I did as during my apprenticeship all of the large shafts that had to be serviced had shell bearings and not any of them that had a base plate used the base plate as the bottom bearing.
It's a very good site and a very experienced machinist.
Thanks for the link .
Where were you when I needed you ??
George.
-
That is an excellent alternative solution path you went on for the bottom end bearings George
the detailed photography images are also superb for a reference to new builders etc
Derek
-
Hi Jerry,
You might consider what I did on my launch engine base plate, I was concerned about the bottom half of the main shaft bearings being part of the base plate casting.
I thought that it was very bad practice and poor engineering thought, i.e. what happens in the future if the bearings ware, how do you take up the slack in the bottom half of the bearings, so I decided to make split bearing blocks by facing the top bearing covers and soft soldering them to a peace of Gun metal, facing them to size and marking off the hole centres leaving 1/8" of metal from the bottom of the bearing to the top of the base casting always remembering to add on to the piston rods, the columns, the slide valve rods, the difference created by doing as I did.
I remember Mick having long thoughts on how to machine the base casting to give a clean Finnish to the bearing and as he didn't have a long reamer to bore and ream on the same fixing he used a ball nosed cutter and finished off by file and emery cloth, can't remember what sort of Finnish he achieved but I do know that he spent hours running in with oil and [size=78%]"T" cut.[/size]
Her is a few pics of my method.
Regards
George.
Hi George, if your concern was wear, why didn't you simply add some (later replaceable) bearing sleeves and keep the original configuration?
-
Not ware but aesthetics, and it was so much easier to make the bearing blocks as shown
and no special tools were required to make them
George.
-
Hi George, I agree with what you say, however, I’m going to build this one as per plans. The reason is in honesty I can’t really afford one of these but have to do something to stop me going mad stuck here in Oz. Second, Stuart are going to put this engine in their catalogue shortly so it will be possible to buy one so my plan is to offload this one and buy another set thus getting it for free.
TGH thank you so much for that link. Missed the whole Vuelta España watching it last night. All my questions answered and he did it all with a Taig. I don’t have a mill, only a vertical slide but I’m sure I’ll manage. Iv actually started a journal on this build with all the finer details to be recorded so I can blitz the second one. Each numbered section on the drawings has it’s own chapter with details of what to buy, drill, tap, die and reamer sizes and how I did it. Nice hardback for the future.
Jerry C.
-
Hi Jerry,
Not to worry I wasn't saying that you should do as I did but just another method to make the bottom bearings.
I think that if I had known of the link that T.G. sent I may have gone down that road but another consideration that I had was that I didn't quite know how to do the 5/16" groove to take the main shaft and as I had a background servicing multiple diametre shafts running on blocks with replaceable brass shells that was the way that I went.
I still maintain that Stuarts method is bad practice and it has never been changed since the 1930's, now I know that in most large steam engines, boats and mills, the base plate casting had removable shells and needed to use small hydraulic jacks to lift the main shaft a few thousands to slip the bottom bearing to be replaced that I do know as I been there and done that, but bad practice to use the main base casting as the bearing surface.
George
-
I’ve completed the eccentric sheaves. The first one took me a day and a quarter including interruptions. The second took a day but I’m pleased to report they are perfick, down to 0.0005” and no disasters. I’ve decided not to include the details in this thread as I’m using the thread posted earlier on the compound version unless my method deviates from it.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/13/1A19DBDA-2436-46B1-9547-C04A9CBC304A.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/anXQ2)
I never realised how dirty this cast iron is, I don’t think my fingers will ever be clean again! I’m also suffering from a stonking headache caused I think by the distortion caused by wearing safety specks over my glasses. Might have a day off tomorrow as my daughter has two softball games tomorrow so a nice day out.
Jerry C.
-
Today I machined the top cylinder covers. The process was made especially difficult due to on having no casting stubs to get hold of in the chuck. Earlier sets of castings had stubs to top and bottom, these had neither. Nothing for it but to grip the edge with the base towards the chuck. Too big to fit in the inside jaws so swapped to the outside jaws. Parts not wide enough to be gripped by the outer step so fitted them in the second step. This meant I had to be creative with my choice of the best tool. I had to grind a fair bit off to stop it fouling on the outer part of the jaws. I cleaned up the top surface up to the dome then scribed a faint bolt circle for later. Then I removed the part and I blued up the outer edge and using my callipers scribed the edge thickness. Reversed the part in the chuck still gripping on the edge but loosely then carefully tapped the part into the jaws until the scribed mark was as level with each jaw as I could make it by eye. I nipped up the jaws and faced the lower surface. Then I turned down the outer edge to size. Then I turned down the base to the required thickness leaving the 1” diameter centre part. This bit that fits into the cylinder was now much longer than required but allowed the jaws to get a good grip on. Now at last I could turn the outer diameter of the part to 1 1/2” and square to the bottom surface. Set my dial gauge on the top surface where the studs go and it was near enough but gave it a quick skim. Reverse part in chuck and removed the excess on the stub and all done. Happy. Repeated the process on the second cover. Dimensions good but finish needs some work. Must get some Scotchbrite.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/15/D9EC3998-FBCB-4EF4-A6CF-3861A8A4CC3B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/anwO4)
Jerry C.
-
Thats tricky work Jerry but well executed using what you've got - top job :-))
-
For cylinder cover just glue them into a simple jig (pot chuck) super glue will do the job and a sharp tap will release the glue
-
Thanks for that Frazer, I’ll try that when I do the bottom covers.
Jerry C.
-
Hi Jerry,
Stuart don't do machining spigots on top covers in the Launch castings, nor do they in the D10, they only supply 1/2"Thk cast iron blanks
They can be chucked in the 3- jaw x 1/4" hold and the outside dia of the top caps can be machined and faced to size, then if you can make a holding collet as per the pics you can hold the machined dia to finish the underside with the I" x 1/32" locating boss.
The location need only have a 3/32" landing x the thickness of the top cap and the collet need only be 3/4" long with a slot cut to hold the casting.
It may be worth your while to make one if you are going to make an other launch engine in the future.
The bottom pic is actually the bottom cover of a D10
Don't do as I did and drop the bottom cover on the concrete W/Shop floor, tried to S/Solder it with no luck so had to buy another blank and start again.
George.
-
I see what you mean George. My chuck is only 3” diameter and won’t open far enough to hold the covers like that. If I ship the other jaws I have similar problems. I don’t have an endless supply of stock like I did in UK. I have to get everything on e bay. However a little ray of sunshine last evening, I found out my son in law has a mate with a CNC company. He's going to have a word.
I’ll be working on the bottom covers tomorrow.
Jerry C.
-
Hi Jerry,
I didn't know that your chuck was so small.
If your son in law's mate can't help then Frazer's method is the best, just take small cuts.
George.
-
Over the last few days I’ve made more progress of sorts. With the exception of fastenings for the steam chests, I’ve drilled for and tapped for and installed every 7BA stud in the cylinder block. To do this I’ve used what has to be one of the worst cheapo Ryobi drill presses in existence. The quill has about 1/16” wobble in every direction but where I want it. Anyway they’re in, a little wobbly and not perfick. I took a one size bigger drill to the top and bottom cylinder covers and so they fit as designed with no strain on the studs. I’ve bought some stud locking Loctite which I will use on final assembly once I’ve cut the gaskets so that all the studs end up the same height proud of the nuts. I also drilled the 3/16” exhaust holes and their flange studs, the lagging securing screw holes and the piston rod gland studs. Ground off the center stud tangents from the top and bottom covers and secured them in place temporarily. The block is ready for honing of the bores once my hone arrives. Today I started on the chests and top and tailed them in the 4jaw Chuck. On the last one the gizmo that holds in the jaw scroll on one of the jaws broke making adjustments to that jaw problematic but manage to struggle on. Ideally I’d have used the vertical slide milling attachment for all of this but it not coming with a vice put the mockers on that, however, it was my 71st birthday yesterday and I was asked by Son in law if there was anything I’d like for a present. I said I’d let him know. Now I’ve been a regular customer of a local to Oz seller on eBay who sells lathe type stuff, cheap, cheerful and quick. Goes by the name Aussee. Well one of their parcels came with an invoice containing a phone number so on Saturday I called them and it went to voicemail of course so I phoned on Monday morning and asked about a cheap,reasonable quality 50mm machine vice as they don’t list one on eBay. He said no problem, got nice one, no handle, fit my slide if put on sideways 71 dollar 14 dollar post so I ripped his arm off. Then told kids what they’d bought me for my birthday. Then, low and behold it arrive this arvo and its perfick! can’t even see the joins. Then I realised I was going to have to start drilling holes in it to attach it to my slide. So did some measurements and a bit of blueing when it dawned on me what the guy meant about mounting it sideways. Of course as it makes no difference which orientation I use for milling I can clamp it with four T nuts and four rockers without any drilling. I should say the T nuts are in reality hardened square meccano type nuts but they’ll do until I can knock up summat better and no drilling sacrilege.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/24/594067CE-099F-454F-B953-C26216F5D7FC.md.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aWYwZ)(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/24/D05C940D-BC5A-4853-85B1-B94227F9D524.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aWuWu)(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/24/2447CA70-2165-41D1-82C0-ED6CA3441976.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aW9VR)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/24/4280D88E-A66A-4883-AAD2-03BDD7D44E10.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aW0e1)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/24/6B6B7CE3-BAD1-40A8-A155-E633DB395F69.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aWSzG)
Jerry C.
-
Well happy birthday youngster ....not sure reading between the lines %) actually tells us?
Did Mr Aussee have a Chinese voice ?.......or Germanic?....
I have purchased from Aussee Tools in Melbourne & found their merchandise fair price & good quality......more interestingly, many items from Industrial facilities in Western Europe over perceived central Asian
Derek
-
Deffo Chinese Derek. Looking at this vice though I’d say the only time a human of any nationality touched it was to put it in it’s box. Must be CNC. It’s exquisite.
Jerry C. ps. Why am I not getting notifications on this thread, I’ve pressed notify.
-
Lived and worked aboard with Chinese motormen and occasionally seamen for 20 years. Always liked and respected them.
Jerry C.
-
Lack of notifications seems widespread Jerry. Others have complained. I am still getting them, so I don't understand the problem. I guess Martin is on the case.
And what are you doing up at this time of night??
Greg
-
I’m 11 hours ahead of you in Canberra.
Jerry C.
-
Nice work so far :-)) just an observation but you might have trouble with the exhaust flanges as they seem very close to the cylinder wrapper bolts ( I wrap mine right around the edges of the steam chest and fix there O0
-
Yesterday I used the two useless clamps on the vertical slide to make four hold down clamps to attach vice to slide via T nuts. Will make some proper T nuts soon, when the square meccano ones strip. First job with new setup, the valve chests and covers. First valve chest went ok but very slow. When I turned it over to do other side there was a hint of chilling around the edges but managed ok. However the cover was a different story. It must be made of diamond or Kryptonite cos that’s two end mills in the bin! So, I resorted to using he belt sander which made quick work of it. Frequent rotation and measuring and it came out as good and as accurate as the mill but with a nice finish, much better than the mill. A quick tidy on the oily wet and dry glass plate and they’re done. Degreased and super glued to cylinder block for marking out for studs then clamped the whole lot in the mill and put the 5 BA tapping drill through followed by the clearance drill. This is way the holes are where I wanted them and not the random Ryobi placement. Tapped through the four holes 5BA, applied blowtorch and separated the parts after they’d cooled I gave them a quick go on the wet and dry, pot the studs in and ran the nuts down. Next the gland studs 7BA followed by the steam inlet studs 7BA. I found I’d only got 5 of the 8 big 5BA nuts. Haven’t lost any as been very careful. I’m still waiting on the missing piston rings from Stuart’s but not in any rush. Plenty to be going on with. Daughter complained to landlord that the s/s sink in the kitchen was going rusty. Pointed out to her that every day I wash my hands in it and the iron from the machining is trying to join up with the S/S. A bit of Brillo and it’s gone.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/26/50E07F8E-07DC-498A-BDBB-757FC7B26C66.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aWdjB)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/11/26/26413E04-B1E2-49E8-8530-ED9B674EB43B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aWDhh)
Jerry C.
-
Yesterday I finished the second valve chest and cover, again using the belt sander then drilling using mill. Again similar chilling evident. I also realised that the 5 large nuts are not for the valve chest studs but for the top of the columns. Puzzling because they fit loosely on the studs but column top threads are meant to be 4BA. I tried a 4BA plug tap in one and it wot go through by hand. I’ll run them through anyway but if they end up too loose I’ll have to order the correct nuts.
Day off today for bike ride, daughters 2 soft ball matched and a thrash through the bush roads on my little Honda. 33° forecast for today! And that’s stuff all here.
Jerry C.
-
First major cockup! Finished off all the work on the bed plate. All holes in correct places. Bearing caps machined and bolted down to bed plate. I put a pilot drill through the main bearings followed by progressive increasing sizes. (I’m waiting for the 5/16” reamer). The holes were all over the shop. Total rubbish. That’s when I noticed one of the clamps holding the vice to the vertical slide lying on the lathe bed. Turned out thread stripped on cap screw causing mill to move and destroy my settings.
Today spent making 5 tiny T nuts M5. A sleepless night but the answer was waiting for me when I woke this morning. It’s back to George’s split bearings. This evening on the phone to Stuart’s for 3 new castings £30 and Blackgates for 5BA studding and a lump of Gunmetal to lift the bearing caps off the bed plate. Ordered some copper piping for the exhaust while I was at it.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/03/9D03D964-DBA9-4D95-9F4F-ECE0C414CA7B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aiXQM)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/03/F16D37D2-2309-4CA9-83B0-75E26A3A1319.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ain1D)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/03/E9F7A08C-0657-4018-BCE2-1011BE87646E.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aiWOS)
The plan is to make 3 new bearings with the gunmetal soft soldered to the bottoms and bearings soldered together with no bolt holes. Drill and ream the 5/16 hole through the middle. Separate the bearings from each other, Slide them onto a piece of 5/16” rod then clamp the assembly onto the bed plate and spot through the bolt holes to the bearings.
Any thoughts or advice?
Jerry C.
-
Jerry, a rescue plan.
Get some round bar the same dia as the holes that you drilled, if you don't have the dia machine a bit to suit.
Cut of 3- pieces over size in length of the thro' hole in the top bearing and soft solder them in.
Mount the top bearings in the 4- jaw and machine flush to the top cap faces.
Cut 3- pieces of Gunmetal or brass 3/8" thk x width of the top bearing cap, soft solder them to the 1/2 holes in the top bearings previously machined you can then machine the top cap bearings to size and mark off for boring and reaming 5/16" dia.( See my No 12 post ) you can then machine the bottom of the bearing blocks to leave 5/32" from the bottom of the reamed hole in the bearing block to the base plate.
Base plate
Soft solder brass rod all as the top caps and machine flush in the lathe,
Plug the bearing holes already drilled and tapped with screwed brass rod held in with Loctite 603 the stubs can be machined off in the same setting as the base plate in the lathe.
Once you have completed the process you can mark of new bearing fixing holes in the base plate with the bearing blocks and a piece of 5/16" dia rod to give you the position of the bearing blocks.. The rod should be free turning by hand if not you can find out which block is out of size and rub the bottom on a flat file to get the rod to turn. NOW ALWAYS REMEMBER THAT YOU HAVE TO ADD ON TO THE UPRIGHTS, THE PISTON RODS AND THE VALVE RODS by how much you have raised the main shaft.
Give it a go you have nothing to lose and if you don't understand my description just give me a call.
George.
-
Thanks for that George. That was my intention. I’ve ordered new main bearings from Stuart’s and a 5BA threaded rod and a chunk of gunmetal from Blackgates. Cylinder hones came today. I’ve been working on exhaust flanges today.
Jerry C.
-
Thanks for that George. That was my intention. I’ve ordered new main bearings from Stuart’s and a 5BA threaded rod and a chunk of gunmetal from Blackgates. Cylinder hones came today. I’ve been working on exhaust flanges today.
Jerry C.
Jerry ,
I am assuming that you have ordered 5BA screwed rod to plug the holes in the base plate in order to drill new ones when you machine the new bearing tops on order.
If the screwed rod is M/S you could be in real trouble as when the M/S screwed rod has plugged the exiting holes and flushed off when you go to drill the new holes if the holes are slightly off centre to the plugged screws when you drill down the drill will wander into the softer Gunmetal base material and could break , and the holes will be off of the centres required.
If it is screwed rod can you phone your supplier to supply 5BA brass screws 3/4" to 1" long with slotted cheese head or other heads that can be cut off and flushed over and then you can drill down for new screw fixings.
I would prefer that you drilled out the existing holes 2BA and plug with 2BA brass screws which would give you a sound base to make new holes for your new bearings.
If you decide on that road phone the suppliers for some long 2BA brass screws. If you have 2BA dies screw thread a piece of 3/16" dia brass rod 2BA to make plugs.
What are you going to do about the 1/2 dia holes in the base plate ( 3 off )
Do you have 5BA dies that you could screw thread 1/8" dia brass rod and glue them in with Loctite 603 flush them off and re tap for the 5BA bearing fixing bolts that you have.
George.
-
Out of curiosity . Would it be possible to overbore the casting to bring it into alignment and make and fit shell bearings
Iv not built this engine so just guessing
cheers
frazer
-
Hi George, my main bearing stud holes in the base plate are through holes. My intentions are to fashion the new bearing castings and their gunmetal 3/16” risers, soft solder them together, drill through and team to 5/16”, put witness marks on for reassembly. Next, unsolder them, fit on reamer and superglue the lot in their correct positions on the base plate with the reamer inserted. Then, using a 5 BA tapping drill, drill through bearings and risers from beneath the base plate through original threaded holes. Finally remove them and open the holes in the bearings and risers to 5BA clearance. Can you see anything wrong with this method.
Secondly, I can’t get my head round the inlet and exhaust arrangements. The plans indicate two 3/16” bore inlet glands bolted to valve chests and a 3/16” o/d piece of copper pipe with a 90° bend in it. One flange is tapped 3/16” 40 TPI, the other is 3/16” plane. Next their are 3 castings for pipe unions/flanges, one elbow flange and 2 straight through 1/4” flanges. I presume the elbow and one 1/4” bore flange straight through are for exhaust manifold joined and exited by 1/4” copper pipe. That leaves a 3/16” bore straight through flange which must be for the remaining inlet. So how does the bent 3/16” pipe get to the second flange. It’s not long enough for one and two the second flange needs to be split and and a 3/16” stand off pipe inserted between the split. Unfortunately I can find plenty of photos of the compound engine but none for the twin that I can make sense of. Could you send me some photos to help?
ps the half holes in the base plate will either have half round sections of brass soldered in or I may fashion the outer bearing risers with a lower lip to cover the holesinset into base plate. The centre one will be largely invisible.
Jerry C.
-
George, no sooner posted then it dawned on me. Inlet has two bent copper pipes with central flange? That’s why only one is threaded as it would be impossible to assemble if all were threaded. Doh!
I’d still like some photos though.
I can’t see why Stuart can’t supply pics and label each section of the plans. They certainly don’t make things easy!
Jerry C.
-
Hi George, my main bearing stud holes in the base plate are through holes. My intentions are to fashion the new bearing castings and their gunmetal 3/16” risers, soft solder them together, drill through and team to 5/16”, put witness marks on for reassembly. Next, unsolder them, fit on reamer and superglue the lot in their correct positions on the base plate with the reamer inserted. Then, using a 5 BA tapping drill, drill through bearings and risers from beneath the base plate through original threaded holes. Finally remove them and open the holes in the bearings and risers to 5BA clearance. Can you see anything wrong with this method.
Secondly, I can’t get my head round the inlet and exhaust arrangements. The plans indicate two 3/16” bore inlet glands bolted to valve chests and a 3/16” o/d piece of copper pipe with a 90° bend in it. One flange is tapped 3/16” 40 TPI, the other is 3/16” plane. Next their are 3 castings for pipe unions/flanges, one elbow flange and 2 straight through 1/4” flanges. I presume the elbow and one 1/4” bore flange straight through are for exhaust manifold joined and exited by 1/4” copper pipe. That leaves a 3/16” bore straight through flange which must be for the remaining inlet. So how does the bent 3/16” pipe get to the second flange. It’s not long enough for one and two the second flange needs to be split and and a 3/16” stand off pipe inserted between the split. Unfortunately I can find plenty of photos of the compound engine but none for the twin that I can make sense of. Could you send me some photos to help?
ps the half holes in the base plate will either have half round sections of brass soldered in or I may fashion the outer bearing risers with a lower lip to cover the holesinset into base plate. The centre one will be largely invisible.
Jerry C.
Hi Jerry.
By All Means solder them together- bore and ream to 5/!6" - put the three soldered bearings into the 4- jaw and machine the bases to leave 1/8" from bottom of the hole to the top of the base plate and unsolder and clean off the solder.
Don't put the reamer into the bearings when lining up as the reamer ,which I assume is a hand reamer is smaller in dia at the tip of the tool and you will get a miss aligned hole in one of them use a piece of 5/15" dia rod.
I would much prefer that you plugged the existing holes with 5BA brass screws as previously suggested and and assemble the bearings with a 5/16" dia rod thro' them and
re drill and tap the holes from the new bearings.
Also I would plug the three main holes in the base plate that are out of line as there will not be enough room when the shaft and the webs are fitted, the webs could foul the sides of any thing down the side.
Regarding the Inlet and exhaust pipes,[size=78%] [/size]I Silver soldered them to the castings provided with fittings at the ends to take a steam pipe and a 1/4" dia pipe for the exhaust.
For some reason I am unable to post attachment so I will try to post some pics later.
George.
-
I’ve been in contact with George (Ooya) ViA emails as he’s having trouble putting pics up. Since last post I’ve done all the steam and exhaust flanges and piston and valve chest glands. Also finished off the bottom cylinder covers. Yesterday I made a start on the cross head/reversing rod bracket. No problem drilling the 1/4” holes for the columns but major problems drilling the 3/16 holes for the reversing control rod. The phosphor bronze is like working with toffee. The drill comes out in random directions. So I drilled the holes very oversize and inserted brass plugs held in with Loctite. It was then easy to drill through the brass with a 3/16” bit. Put the piece in the milling vice and milled everything to size. While filing the casting away around the control rod I filed through into the brass and the plugs fell out. I soft soldered them in place. I needed to alter the position of one plug and in doing so I managed to drop it. 1 1/2 hours later with a very clean and tidy workspace I found it exactly where I’d thought it would be but apparently brass has a cloaking device rendering it invisible to three people searching for it. So that’s boxed off except for drilling and tapping for two grubscrews plus a final polish with the polishing rig.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/11/DFE9C01D-7201-42D2-9A2C-C24EE8A70C4C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aiFmw)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/11/A103BEE8-B205-442D-9269-2D5FD6CEE325.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aieqL)
[(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/11/26C18495-DCE9-4535-8AEE-CBB3AE9F5990.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aixS9)
url=https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ailIp](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/11/C7B827F0-9719-42A9-A11D-D482432236AA.jpg)[/ur
I managed to break a jaw scroll retainer in my 4 jaw chuck rendering it useless. Got in touch with the seller and he’s sending me a new one and I can keep the duff one for spares. Must cut down on the shredded wheat!
The 1” hone machine arrived the other day so I can hone the cylinder bores then I’ll do the pistons.
Jerry C.
-
Missed one
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/11/318FD28D-E168-4573-AEC3-A0AF3AC557BA.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ai4bP)
Jerry C.
-
I’ve finished the support bracket so buffed it up on my polishing rig (drill in vice, mop in chuck). It came out nice though when polished you can see the difference between the brass and phosphor bronze but it looks like it was meant to be like that. Unfortunately I forgot to remove the two 1/8” 7 BA grub screws that clamp it to the Columns. They had disappeared obviously. However as I’d had a good clean up looking for the bit I dropped yesterday I miraculously found the first one immediately right by my feet. After looking fo 39 minutes I found a 7BA nut which I didn’t know I’d lost! Gave up on the grub screw, I’ll snip a bit off the end of one of the 7BA bolts and cut a slot in the end. Spent the rest of the day making paper joints (gaskets). In case there are peeps reading this who don’t know the trick to making them quickly, accurately and neatly I’ll pass on what my dad showed me when I was six and building my first marine diesel engine, (I made the tea, held the torch and passed the spanners) but I remembered every step. That’s Aspergers for you. I used a small ball pein hammer very gently (cast iron remember) to cut the material and a centre punch wider than the holes to cut them, no hammer, just a wiggle. Bolted everything back together again and trimmed the edges with a scalpel. No drilling through holes.
So that most of the top end done but I have a couple of questions.
1) lagging, I’m assuming what Stuart refer to as lagging are actually lagging retainer plates and that lagging should fill the voids under them. I’m going to insulate anyway but does anyone else actually bother?
2) I’ve got it in my head from somewhere that the ends of the tin provided ( 20 thou thick) is meant to butt up behind the valve chests thus everything lies flush. I’ve yet to mill the rough cast surfaces in way of the exhaust flanges but intend removing enough to achieve a flush transition from lagging to valve chests ditto the other side. However cutting the lagging to clear the exhaust flanges I foresee as difficult to achieve neatly so I plan to drill through the lagging into the external exhaust port and clearance holes for the threaded flange stud holes and sandwich the lagging with joints so the lagging is covered by the flanges. Can anyone see any problems with this?
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/12/35183CF9-65D4-4BA0-B4D2-3BA0CADD3782.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aidMX)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/12/A726030C-0908-4C2C-BD82-74DEB4EB17C1.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/airqe)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/12/BBEC4F89-72E3-4170-9AC4-1A67E758C4BB.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aipFB)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/12/9008279F-B701-4C8F-8464-5DDD283BB17C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aibnh)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/12/572275ED-7445-42C6-83A2-FF347DDF24D5.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aiQJ4)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/12/EBC56395-544B-4D1C-AB88-A64BEF285B4D.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aisvv)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/12/112605CD-3908-4D6B-80F8-EA6B720FB0FE.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aiRN5)
Jerry C.
-
I "lagged" my compound block with layers of cork gasket sheet,, used RTV with cork crumbles as a paste to hold all in place,, clamped overnight with wax paper and flexible sheet metal,, need very little trimming..
-
Wow Jerry thats turning into some mighty difficult engineering - well done mate :-))
-
Hi Jerry,
There is no problem putting the lagging strips behind the exhaust flanges, this is how I did it with my engine as shown in pic Just make sure that the lagging strips are flat before bolting down the flanges The lagging strips are made from .020" Ali sheet.
Of all the engines that I have made I never fit lagging below the plates, in my opinion it's not necessary as any benefit is negligible, but of course anybody that has done temperature tests before and after I am willing to listen, it's the same with pipe lagging and I must confess that I do that as it's more like the real thing but again I have never found any advantage.
Jerry the reason that I have made steel Con Rods and split bearings is that I made a complete mess of turning the taper on one of the rods as the tool dug into the base at the bottom of the bearing so I decided on M/S which I like better, did the same with a Score engine by making the rods in M/S.
How did you manage to break your 4 jaw, did you have a tube on the end of the chuck key.
George.
-
Hi George, I broke the chuck turning inside the flywheel. I broke 3 carbide tipped tools. Ground down too much to get them inside. The third one jammed the chuck and the jaws on the scroll retainer snapped off damaging the scroll at the same time. Suppliers sent me a replacement chuck which wings it’s way at snail pace to me. Still lucky it seems. I don’t expect much joy machining the con rods. Not liking PB. Steel looks a lot better.
Over the last 3 1/2 days I’ve been metal bashing the lagging plates. First I milled 20thou of the sides of the cylinder block cylinder block in way of the valve chests. Then creasing the Ali sheet, hammering over the flywheel to form the curves, lots of filing and buffing (finally found some scotchbrite in green and blue. A few scratches to remove and they’re ready for paint. I’ve chosen Triumph Amaranth Red. Don’t fancy Stuart’s green. Hopefully there’s an auto paint supplier nearby that can mix me a small batch and put it in an aerosol can. Got etch primer and Rustoleum undercoat.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/15/4F291137-DA1A-48BD-81F5-8E9E9E86636E.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aGHaf)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/15/5383F678-4B15-4832-A84F-0A27CB6CC69F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aGORv)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/15/EDAE6B97-8C86-4881-8697-1756B6C7DDFE.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aGGH5)
Jerry C.
-
Hi Jerry,
The lagging strips look good, you could try e-bay for a rattle can spray paint in the colour required as there is still a lot of Bonny's about, at least I think that the pic is a Bonnyville .
I rebuilt a B.S.A. 350 cc with a T100 engine when I was 19 , it turned out to be a flyer. but decided to stick to bicycles..
Let me know if you want pics of steel con rods.
George.
-
Jerry ...I am convert to Rust-Oleum
Their Colonial Red Gloss is a pretty good match to your Triumph color.......provides a good reflectiive qualities
Derek
-
Here you go George. Don’t get me on bikes, I built 36 of these in another life. This one I built for the Chairman of Aston Martin Lagonda, Victor Gauntlet. When he died The Barber Motor Museum in Birmingham Alabama bought it. It’s listed as Barbers’ Best. Still gets run once a month on their track. (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/15/84969064-B4FF-4A47-85AD-DDB9C9BBA5B5.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aG0eh)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/15/C0BB7589-E602-4FDD-A30C-E32828DCDB0F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aGuW4)
My problem is I’m in Oz and stuffs hard to get. The code for the paint exists so I can get it made here.
Enjoy.
Jerry C.
-
Hi Jerry,
The Norton is superb, when I said that I had done re furb on a 350 B.S.A. and installed a T100 Triumph engine into it it never turned out in such show room condition but bearing in mind My brother and I did it in a single car lockup, it did turned out very nice.
Not enough to tempt me away from my bike and racing activities however as I had started very young about 1943 or 1944.
Can you guess what the corrugated structures in the back ground are.
Sorry Jerry pic is a bit squashed will need to check for size, still working on sending pics.
George.
P.S.
Wide wheel base for turning corners at speed.
-
Jerry
please excuse the phafing about but I want to try an squash my last pic but when I try preveiw it will not come up.
Yipee it worked, I can now change pics as well
George
-
I’d guess blast screens outside air raid shelters. I used to play in some in the field back of our garden next to an ack ack station. Also had the same trike! Look at my bike pics again. It’s a hybrid Triton Featherbed frame (slimline) with pre-unit Bonnie Engine.
Jerry C.
-
Jerry,
Bang on for the blast shields ,by memory they were about 7ft high x 3ft wide x about 10 ft long all filled with sand, I remember in V.E. they were turned over and the square where I lived looked like a sandy beach, big bonfire at the street corner with all of the timber that was used to shore up the buildings in case of a bomb hit which thankfully never came.
Yes I new that the machine on the R/H side was a Triton, I would say that the Norton is the same machine that you say is now in a Museum, both fantastic machines, I do salivate over the pics now and again.
George.
-
George, two pics, one bike.
Jerry.
-
Day 4 on lagging sheets sees then getting a couple of coats of etch primer inside and out, ditto the cylinder block under the covers.
Attempted to machine the pistons but both castings badly chilled. I know there’s a treatment for it but I can’t be arsed so made them out of brass. If anyone wants to compare coefficients of expansion of brass and cast iron and their implications , feel free and I’ll increase the clearances later. Inserted the piston rings in the bores and gapped them at 4 thou” each.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/16/BC3EEA3A-8C9D-4AA2-A84B-132E12F8D651.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aGSze)
Jerry C.
-
Sorry to ask what might be obvious but I've seen "chilling" a couple of times but can't find what it means. Google keeps saying about introducing cooling of the piece being worked on. What does it mean please as that doesn't sound like what you're saying?
Thanks
Rich
-
Hi Rich. Chilling occurs when the mould is broken too early making the casting like diamond in places. By heating it up again and forcing it to cool slowly I believe sorts it out. The money these parts cost is eye watering but they’ve been doing this for yonks and should really be getting it right. It’s almost as though they want to make it difficult. Resting on their laurels I’m afraid.
Jerry C.
-
Ah, yes thanks. Was thinking it was a machining phenomenon rather than casting. That makes sense!
Rich
-
Machined two piston rods and added the two 1/16” tommy bar holes to the tops of the pistons. Gapped the piston rings in the bores, reassembled the lot with Loctite on the threads then promptly dropped one on the floor and shattered a ring. What’s the drill using o rings? Yesterday I went to an auto Paint distributor and got them to mix me up some Amaranth red paint and put it in an aerosol can. $35 but worth it. I’m not a fan of Stuart green. Next I made a start on the eccentric rods. They seems to be made from a different batch of phosphor bronze and mill quite nicely. Milled the right hand side of the top part then backed out and cleaned up the bottom face to dimension then replaced with the next one and repeated using the same settings. I noticed on the first one that the movable vice jaw was lifting a fraction so used a clamp to hold it down. Not strong enough so bought a pair Of cheap 3” metal clamps which did the trick without obstructing movement. Having the weekend off and catching up on the cricket. Internet has been problematic possibly due to lightning damage in a storm the other day.
Jerry C.
-
I forgot to post these pics. I milled the steam valves and nuts. The steam valve castings came in one piece so I machined them joined together then separated them which saves time setting up. The other pic is my setup for milling the eccentric rods.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/19/4CEE247D-B072-43B1-A0DB-C960E35D0F69.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aG7K1)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/19/C70CAD5C-7B7D-4632-A953-038B1AB73DCC.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aGxku)
Jerry C.
-
It occurred to me that I have been very remiss in posting what I’ve done without saying how I went about it. I will remedy this when I’m forced into down time waiting for stuff. The silver solder I ordered locally arrived Friday, flux is in transit. Four jaw chuck is getting close and still awaiting Blackgates package.
Jerry C.
-
Here’s how I’m going about machining the eccentric rods and caps. It’s all about standards and repetition. Looking at the drawing I decided to start on the right hand face so set the piece in the machine vice on parallels for the big end and feeler gauges across the top bit for support (PB is soft and bendy). Clean up the boss then using the vertical slide move the piece downwards until it clears the boss and sits over the rod part. I fixed a digital tire tread depth gauge to the lathe bed, using superglue, with the probe extended to touch the saddle. Then I made sure the auto feed gears were free and engaged the screw with the halfnut lever on the apron. I can now move the saddle incrementally with a spanner on the right hand end of the feed screw. Before moving anything I zero the dro then, using a finger on the end of the dro slide to allow it to follow the movement on the saddle until the dro shows 0.047” then lock the saddle and release the halfnut. The cutter is now set to mill the rod face. On completion remove the piece and put the next piece in the vice and repeat until right face of all four pieces are done. Other half, turn the piece so unmachined side faces the milling cutter and repeat the process bringing the boss to size then move saddle 0.047” towards the cutter and complete the rod, Finally move the saddle away from the cutter by 0.281” and mill the top connection to size. Repeat in the last 3 pieces. Now I need to size the bottom for width so rotate the piece in the vice with the rod vertical and clean up one side where the bolts will go to fit the rod to the sheaves. Now I remove the piece and do some measurements to see how much material needs to be removed each side to keep the hole for the sheaves central to the piece and again, using temp dro, mill to size. Repeat with remaining three pieces.
Next it’s time to drill and tap the holes in the tops 7BA. Marked out the centre as close to the top as looked right and centre popped for centre drill. Clamped the top in the vise and drill the tapping size (2mm) then tapped the hole right through, rotated the part 180° and drilled the clearance hole half way through. Repeated on all the rest. First time I tapped I broke the tap when it was all the way in. After finding out there is only one spark erosion firm in Australia and that making my own, (YouTube) was probably a bridge too far I used plan B. Using a Dremel disc cutter, I cut 1/2” off the shaft of the tapping drill, leaving enough that it can be reused. I drilled a clearance hole in a piece of round brass bar disc. Put the brass disc on the vice jaws, rested the piece on the brass disc with the broken tap over the hole. Put the cut off piece of drill in the hole resting on the broken tap then hit it once with my biggest hammer. Success!! Came out in one. Still half the thread remaining (think of the breach of a big gun) and a nut goes on the end of the bolt anyway. Lucky again!! The rest went ok.
Using the vertical slide I centred on the 7BA tapped hole then 40 turns on the wheel lifted the piece 2” so with a scribe in the chuck I marked the cut line for the end caps.
That’s it for the last two days.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/21/3978A3C3-5F71-4993-A857-D7D1F382A1EA.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aGdjK)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/21/4C9F2E9E-654F-4900-B008-F6F7E24B33AE.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aGrf2)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/21/EBA8CA6B-BFF9-4203-A1F6-4A5805CE0D5F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aGbsn)
Tomorrow I’ll drill for the 5/8” 7 BA bolts for the end caps.
I’ve been thinking about the 3/4” hole for the sheaves. I can’t see how I’ll get the pieces on the four Jaw chuck (when it arrives) so thinking of putting a boring tool in the 4 jaw and the parts in the machine vice and boring the holes. Then doing some tool grinding to cut the little groove in the bearing surfaces. I’ll sleep on that a few days.
Cut the slots for the reversing plates, some filing and wet and dry and their done.
Jerry C.
-
Following on Jerry and a question from left of centre...I thought I noticed on November the 9th, then dismissed it....but today confirms :o .is the drip/swarf tray for the lathe upside down?
I have a very valid reason to question this as I have just acquired a 2nd hand Sieg C3 - [could be the same [basic variant] as your machine I think]..... & this one does hot have a drip/swarf tray, but mounted on a slab of Melinite board
Derek
-
Derek, mines bolted to 3”thick Aussie hardwood. The bolts pass through the tray so if it was upside down it would be crushed. And all the oil would run out. Mines also got a tin splash back which fouls the cross slide at full travel.
Jerry.
-
I’ve completed most of the machining of the eccentric rods but next I need to bore out the 3/4” hole for the sheaves. I’ve been following the very informative and very helpful guy that built the compound engine, however, he omitted these from the site.
I’m thinking of mounting the assembled rods in the mill vice, centred on my 3 jaw chuck then shipping the 4 jaw chuck loaded with my boring bar and using shims move it out in stages to achieve the 3/4” hole.
For the 1/32” guide groove I assume I Grind the boring bar to suit.
Any advice welcome. (Needed).
[size=78%](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2020/12/23/1EE01130-DC57-4391-9917-434363B73EDD.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aGVKw)[/size]
Jerry C.
-
page 5 of the reversing links pages,, I used his method, but turned the rod section of mine down to get the look I needed,, made a drilling jig to make sure the "lengths" were equal for the four rods..
-
Jerry,
If you can mount the eccentric strap in the 4- jaw as per pic it will be much more accurate than trying to pack out the strap .
Clean out the flash in the hole with a round or 1/2 round file and you can then roughly centre the hole to run as true as you can get and then bore it out with the tool in the cross slide, you will have much more control of the dimension required this way.
If you can't mount the strap with the 4- jaws at a pinch and with very light cuts you can machine the bore using only 3 jaws, put packing strips in between the job and the jaw to prevent marking the job you can tighten the jaws very tight with the 3- jaws only.
I can't help with the boring off the groove as you can see in the pic that I machined the eccentrics smooth but with an upward flange on both sides of the eccentric to keep the strap on the eccentric but would suggest that you grind up a boring tool to suit the groove and machine the strap while still on the same setting.
To finish off the strap I mounted it on a mandrill put it in the rotary table and finished off the outsides of the strap.
George.
-
I ground a tool bit to do the grooves in mine, the bit is also useful for banjo fittings :-))
-
Sorry I haven’t posted for a while but I’ve been keeping a journal to assist me when I build the next one. Situation at the moment is that
1) 4 jaw chuck still broken and replacement should arrive any time now.
2) replacement bearing cap castings arrived from Stuart’s.
3) copper pipe, 5BA studding and a 1” cube of gunmetal are on the way from Blackgates but that’s a month ago.
4) Christmas pressies of money means I’ve got enough to get a cheap 3 axis DRO setup. As soon as Ausee tools opens up on the eighth I’ll get my order in plus a slitting saw and arbor.
However I’ve not been idle. In day 38 I started on the conrods. I marked out the centres top and bottom. Next I set up in the vertical slide and drilled 2 7BA clearance holes with 9/16” centres in the big ends for the end caps. Then I jury rigged the broken 4 jaw chuck to hold a big end and marked a centre on top of the little end and using a live centre in the tail stock was ready to turn the rod tapers.
I calculated the angle to set on the compound slide as :-
tan-1 is 1/4-3/16/2= 1/16”/2= 1/32=0.03125= 1.8°.
Set that on the compound and turned the tapers when I’d finished the last one before I could remove it I was interrupted by domestic drivel and on my return, looked at the part and thought as it’s there now would be a good time to turn the 1/4” dia. At the top of the taper. Silly me! Should have milled 1/4” flats, not diameter. "xxxxx" if I’m going to order a new one from Stuarts so I went for a repair.
Day 39.
Cut a short length of 3/8 A/F brass hex bar in half then silver soldered it back together again. Popped witness marks on each piece then drilled a 1/4” hole through the join. Next I unsoldered them and clamped them around the 1/4” top of the conrod and butting up against the gugeon bits and soldered them back on again. A bit of carving with the Dremel and that’s the top of the conrods done. When I get a slitting saw and the 4 jaw I’ll fish the big ends.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/03/3707BBA7-AF1C-448D-AF88-B87F1EB127B5.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/av2B3)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/03/0FF27A09-4CE8-4181-83E0-4E5E65DF8756.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/avBgu)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/03/47A74737-C0A0-44D3-8AE4-CB90A4C28E2D.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/av8XQ)
Day 40 I finished the top of the conrods by drilling the 1/4” diameter bottoms of the slots then using a milling cutter I completed the slots then drilled and tapped for the gudgeon bolts. Next, the the crossheads, just a matter of cleaning up the castings and drilling 3 holes in one plane and a bit of tapping. I need the 4 jaw to Finnish off the sliding faces and the boss for the end of the piston rods. Yesterday’s repaired conrod soaked overnight in citric acid solution from Woolies in Erindale Centre.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/03/image23b75b34682f5318.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/avy42)
Day 41 I decided to see if I could remedy the cock up when I put the 1/4” drill through for the crankshaft bearings and bed plate. I bolted no 1 and two bearing caps to and drilled a 1/4” hole through and repeated with 2 and 3. Fitted the caps loosely and put a 1/4” drill bit through by hand. It didn’t look nearly as bad as I thought so mounted baseplate in milling vice, squared everything up and with bearing caps loose ran the 5/16” reamer through. Tightened down the caps and ran reamer through again. The only thing wrong is the crankshaft is 1/32” lie in the bed plate and to drop the crankshaft in needs a little relief on the sides of the bed plate. Will adjust the lengths of the column to compensate.
Day42 As I’m running out of things to do and I’ll have a long wait for materials to build up a crankshaft I decided to have a go at the forged crankshaft supplied. It came with big lumped on the end who I assume is to put the centres on for machining between centres. I don’t have an MT3 dead centre, faceplate or lathe dog but do have an MT2 live centre. So I marked out the 3 centres on the extremities of the end lumps and put small starter centres in with a small centre drill enough to get me started. I put my biggest centre dril in the chuck ant the live centre in the corresponding hole on the other end then shuffling about as necessary drilled all six centres leaving the big centre drill permanently in the lathe chuck until everything complete. I let the pilot of the centre drill come through the other side and tapped the holes 6mm and used a 6mm cap screw and locknut as a lathe dog driven by one of the chuck jaws.
Material very difficult to get a good finish and seems to come add as dust rather than clippings. So special resharpening of lathe tools and experimenting with grinding angles I started to make progress. There’s plenty of spare metal to eventually get it right however there ar some areas with problems similar to chilling but I’m not familiar with forgings.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/03/2BE832CC-FE58-4C8B-BB10-7D26CEB83774.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/avJo1)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/03/2BE832CC-FE58-4C8B-BB10-7D26CEB83774.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/avJo1)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/03/089C31C2-79A2-40C4-A528-8C10C0304192.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/avtQZ)
Day43 turned my attention to the crank journals. The only possible tool available was my parting off tool which with care took the inner crank webs to size admirably 10 thou at a time. Same with the outer web faces. Turning the journals themselves was uneventful and I’m happy with the results.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/03/062E5161-A402-4D76-8BA2-66FD6BAC8A4A.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/avfCG)
Day 45. Completed machining the crankshaft by milling the webs to final size. Cut off the ends.
Fitted crankshaft in bed plate and fitted caps. There is a small amount of play so skimmed a little of the bases of the caps with wet and dry paper on a glass plate until they started to nip up. Got some Brasso. Marked up rubbing surfaces with blue to indicate contact patches for filing/ scraping. Must have assembled/ disassembled 30 times but got there in the end. It’s not perfik but it’s ok.
Removed caps and drilled and tapped 5BA for oil cups for brasso for bedding in.
With hindsight the perfect solution would have been to skim the top of the bed plate 3/64” as there’s plenty of meat in the casting.
Made three brass oil cups. Reamed flywheel to 5/16”. Fitted concentrate and flywheel. Not happy with supplied slotted head grubscrews. Next time it’s Allen headed metric grubscrews for flywheel and eccentrics. When I’ve finalised the timing I’ll file flats on the crai for the fasteners.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/03/imageb19eff1631c21186.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/av6Bm)
So that’s me up to date. Happy New Year everyone.
Jerry C.
-
Missed one and doubled another
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/03/AEEBE5AB-D2BE-4F89-9063-E75CA461F40F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/avaLR)
Jerry C.
-
Came to a short halt waiting for materials. Some 1/4” and 3/16” bright steel round bar stock ordered from Western Australia came in a day and a half which is brilliant for here. I made a start on the 5 columns. They were quite easy after the first one as I rigged the lathe with a couple of stops and took notes and marked the wheels so everything was just a repeat.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/09/BE9AB954-8AFA-46BE-8E76-784D8C74562E.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/avA4D)
Now the engine is starting to look like one. Put some top coat on the bed plate and the lagging.
Today we went to Canberra Zoo with the children and grand kids. A lovely afternoon off. But on return I adjourned to the shed and made up and silver soldered the inlet and exhaust manifolds as yesterday after just under a month my parcel arrived from Blackgates Engineering including two lengths of copper pipe. I made two new rollers for my home made pipe bender for 3/16” o/d pipe and set to. Here they are pickling in citric acid solution. The 1/4” exhaust pipe fouls the lagging so I’ll have to make a pair of 1/16” thick stand off flanges which means the supplied screws will be a bit short methinks.
u(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/09/360A0360-BAEF-4210-8E77-9EE1A690696B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/avwvM)
I’ll make those tomorrow. Still waiting for new 4 jaw chuck then I can crack on.
Jerry C.
-
Really starting to come together now, nice work. :-))
-
I spent most of today tidying up the eccentric sheaves, filing away tool marks, removing metal to clear nut and bolt heads so I can get a ring spanner on them and making sure top parts are correctly in line for the reversing gear. That’s as far as I can go without my 4 jaw chuck.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/10/668EDFCE-DCFE-4C2F-A115-9BBC6748DF23.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/avoYL)
Next I moved on to the inlet and exhaust pipes. Removed from acid bath, rinsed and then removed metal from the exhaust flanges in way of the bolt holes to allow the flanges to clear the lagging screws. Will have to make the dome heads into cheeseheads on the exhaust side and fit risers to clear lagging. Tidied up the flanges where the 1/4” copper pipes enter on the lathe( managed to get the swept flange in the 3jaw chuck running true and live centre in the other end and trimmed them down concentric. A bit of work with
OO wire wool and that’s the exhaust side sorted. Cleaned up the steam inlet side and bolted it to the valve chests.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/10/DD0AE10B-C3F0-4657-B3EE-D7E0B5F2D328.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/avkP9)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/10/A821B148-C3FF-4FC1-A6EA-E5F263B1BE04.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/avqbp)
That’s about as far as I can go atm so tomorrow I’ll remove the valve chest covers and paint the circles. Why don’t they put the Stuart S in them in this engine??
Jerry C.
-
Ok the plan to put risers to clear the lagging fell at the first hurdle. Big nut on top of column fouls. Plan B, out with Dremel and relieve some lagging. Repaint and fit either newly modified cheese head screws. Made up 4 gaskets one under and one over lagging rather than making a hash of cutting the holes. I’m happy the way it turned out. 40°C in the shed. Spray paint dried on the way to the piece!
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/11/FC0C5B93-1E13-4E11-BA44-8A50028EFB7F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aHfVh)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/11/9593B5F1-DCCD-4395-9A32-DA2CE7BD666C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aHaF4)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/11/F3ABA2D0-86C5-45E5-B79D-87480D24CA7D.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aHZWf)
Jerry C.
-
Jerry that's really looking nice mate - it looks like a proper engine now. Be better when your chuck eventually arrives ok2
-
Hi Jerry
I hit the same problem so to overcome this I machined a bit off of the cylinder block and bolted the exhaust flanges over the Ali shield.
There was no leakage as there is little pressure on the exhaust pipe.
George.
-
Thanks George and Mark. The plans as regards to inlet and exhaust arrangements are confusing. It would help generally if each drawing had a title. I tried marking every drawing in the early planning stage with difficulty. Looking at web pics of this build I see so many different takes on the piping, some quite awful. My take is that the small diameter copper pipe should be on the steam inlet side via a center joint arrangement and the flat flanges and the larger 1/4” copper pipe should be on the exhaust side using the cast parts as the steam’s volume has expanded after the stroke and needs a larger way out. Am I correct?
Jerry C.
-
Hi
Jerry, you are correct, steam inlet pipe is the smallest exhaust is the larger.
Why have you made the steam pipe split with a vertical drop, how are you or ( somebody who buys the engine ) going too fit an on line lubricator.
In all of the engines that I have made the steam inlet is as per pic for ease of fitting a lubricator
George.
-
Hi
Jerry, you are correct, steam inlet pipe is the smallest exhaust is the larger.
Why have you made the steam pipe split with a vertical drop, how are you or ( somebody who buys the engine ) going too fit an on line lubricator.
In all of the engines that I have made the steam inlet is as per pic for ease of fitting a lubricator
George.
Should be easy enough to loosen the connections and rotate through 90 degrees so it is horizontal.
Jim
-
Yes Jim I agree with you but it's only going to take up more room in the hull.
How's the weather in Sunny Dundee, it's absolutely perishing here in Kirkie ( -6 ) at present.
George.
-
Hi George, I’m just trying to build as Stuart’s intended. The bent 3/16” pipe on the plan makes no sense unless there are two of them. This pb casting
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/13/9B5D15CB-B326-4104-BCB5-3E627D9EF812.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aHuh2)
is the only one for 3/16” dia pipe. I already had the T piece so just made some olives for it. It’s just hanging loose atm but can be fixed at 90° or vertical.
As to an oiler, it’s position is more dependent on the plant layout. It can be anywhere along the steam supply from boiler.
Will these engines be happy on superheated steam as I’ve a superheater sitting idle in my boiler?
Jerry C.
-
This is one of the few photos I’ve found using this method and I think it looks a bit ugly.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/13/38BF3EDC-3CA1-44C2-A529-D6C08DE9D9F3.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aH0em)
Jerry C.
-
Yes Jim I agree with you but it's only going to take up more room in the hull.
How's the weather in Sunny Dundee, it's absolutely perishing here in Kirkie ( -6 ) at present.
George.
A bit warmer here, some negative temperatures overnight but generally positive up to about 4/6 degrees mid day. We got a bit of snow which luckily never lasted.
Jim
-
Hi Jerry,
I agree with you that the pic of the steam pipe is ugly.
I don't know why I always have made my steam connections Horizontal and the Lubricator screwed into the the end of the steam pipe.
Here are 2 pics showing the fitting that I make to take the lubricator and the steam line as I always have done will and continue to do so as I like this way.
George..
-
Thanks again George, much appreciated. Couple more questions for anyone. Washers. It doesn’t feel right to me not to have them, not the way my dad taught me. Views? And two, locknuts. Only four provided, two for crosshead, two for valve rods. What about piston rods to cross heads. Piston rods loctited to pistons, adjustment at cross heads via two tommy holes in top of pistons but no locknuts to fix adjustment. Can the pistons rotate in use?
Jerry C.
-
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/15/42296382-E718-4926-88A2-033FEF875451.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aHYww)
So good to work with brass again. This is one of the valve rod heads. Shipped a length of 3/8” hex bar in the chuck. Did some sums to work out the max diameter of the part and turned the bar down to this for two lengths plus width of parting tool. Turned the end down to 1/4” diameter for 50 thou depth, drilled tapping hole for 5BA then tapped the 5 BA hole. Parted off as a pair and replaced in the chuck and repeated for the other end. Set up the milling attachment and put the piece in the vice using the v in the jaws. Then milled one side down to size for 1/4”. Turned the piece round 180° on parallels and milled the other side. Removed the cutter and replaced with small centre drill. Touched off with the centre drill on the top, pulled the piece clear and raised the vertical slide half the diameter of the centre drill then again using the wheel graduations for 3/8”. Centre drilled for the 7BA bolt then drilled right through with a tapping drill (2mm) t[size=78%]hen halfway through with 2.65mm clearance drill. Finally tapped the hole 7BA. Removed the piece and turned through 90°. Put a 1/8” cutter in the chuck and plunged through at the top of the slot. Then slowly raised the vertical slide cutting the lot through the top piece and continued through thus cutting the slot for the second piece. Turned the piece 90° and drilled and tapped the hole in the second piece. Finally milled the remaining to sides flat. Removed from vice and cut the whole piece in half. Screwed a 7BA bolt into each piece. Drilled a 2.65mm hole in the table of my belt sander, placed the end of the bolts in turn in this hole and sanded the rounded ends. De burred everything and a bit of rubbing on 600 wet or dry on glass plate and they’re done. [/size]
[/size][size=78%]That’s as far as I can go until my replacement 4 jaw chuck arrives. I’ve sent the supplier a message saying it’s 31 days since they sent it but still no sign of it. Australian Post isn’t anything to write home about but it’s not that bad! I’m also waiting for a slitting saw and arbor to come then I can finish the con-rods. [/size]
[/size]
[/size][size=78%]Jerry C. [/size]
-
Thanks again George, much appreciated. Couple more questions for anyone. Washers. It doesn’t feel right to me not to have them, not the way my dad taught me. Views? And two, locknuts. Only four provided, two for crosshead, two for valve rods. What about piston rods to cross heads. Piston rods loctited to pistons, adjustment at cross heads via two tommy holes in top of pistons but no locknuts to fix adjustment. Can the pistons rotate in use?
Jerry C.
Jerry,
Unfortunately I Cant help with the amount of screws and washers supplied with the kit as I bought mine on E-bay purely as a set of castings so I made up from my stock material all that was required.
Regarding nuts and washers t I don't recall ever having used washers or double nutted any part, the only washers that I recall was the brass washers shown on the back side of the cross head slide.
The piston rods by memory were 5/32" and were reduced to length as per the drawing with both ends threaded 5B.A..
I screwed the rod into the piston which I made + .010" > .020" over size with a dab of Loctite 243, made a collet from a piece of 1/4" dia brass, marked it with a punch in the centre line of No 2 jaw which is my preferred true running jaw, removed it from the chuck and that leaves you with a true running collet and then slit it up the length of it remembering when putting back into the chuck with the piston rod and the piston , turned it down to fit the bore.
I had no lock nut on the piston rod going into the Cross head as there was a turned end to stop when screwing into the Cross head.
I very rarely use lock nuts but I do use a dab of Loctite 243 thread lock, it allows the joint to be broken if required.
You can see in the background the tool that I made to adjust the height of the piston.
One thing I must say that Stuarts drawing of the Launch Engine is very poor.
For the cost that is charged the drawing could have a Gen Arrangement with the parts itemised , The drawing that I have was printed in the dark ages and it was quite hard to follow, keep going you will get there in the end.
Sorry that I can't help very much
George.
-
Thanks George. The nut on the crosshead serves as a locknut as the bolt through the little end is threaded into it and the nut locks is. This fixes the bolt preventing it from squeezing the little end arms jamming the crosshead. At Grammar school I was offered a choice of two from woodwork, metalwork and technical drawing. I wanted all three (said I’d swap one for Latin), they wouldn’t have it. One subject was drawing nuts. They always had a 45° chamfer top and bottom. Stuart’s nuts only have one on top so when tightening they mark what’s below. A plain washer would prevent that. The four locknuts are thinner and flat top and bottom. I may get some washers later but they’ll do for this one.
I found something I could get on with while waiting. I turned some 1/4” SS rod down to 3/16” and made one valve rod. It fitted nicely but the valve block needed some metal removed from the sealing face as it was a little too deep. Now there is a little float so steam pressure will seat it to the port face. I think the gaskets on the valve chests are a fraction too thin.
It’s a combined birthday party for the two grand children today. One was born on Boxing Day so they now have an “official” birthday like the Queen. Anyhow it’s a day off for me.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/17/5B714CC9-DECF-4027-A3CE-FCFB9D7C5D07.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aHwrL)
Jerry C.
-
Hi Jerry,
Most of the Model Engineering suppliers supply nuts with only one side chamfered but curiously they supply thin lock nuts chamfered Both sides.
I no longer buy nuts and bolts from Stuart Turner as they have become quite expensive. for nuts bolts and washers I buy from EKP supplies who make them on site.
www.ekpsupplies.com ) so you could stock up from them. mail them and they will send a Cat. ( sales@ekpsupplies.com ). phone 01598 710892
The buckle in the valve should always be floating and as you have said steam pressure holds it to the face.
Have a good day at the party.
George.
-
Hi Jerry, Have a look at this , (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhlJp1VZMB8 ) not a lock nut to be seen and most large Hex nuts with flat bottoms, even the Con
bearing bolts have no lock nuts and are all flat bottomed.
worth a look.
George.
-
Jerry,
Here is another link to a very large steam engine. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8lW0PJu8wUg&t=128s. ) it was made for rolling steel plate and Iron rails.
Not the lack of lock nuts on the piston rod bearings and no washers, also large Hex nuts chamfered on the top only.
George.
-
Jerry......50+ years ago I commenced my apprenticeship in a non ferrous metal works [a division of the British BICC]
Melting, casting, drawing of copper & brass tubes [big stuff...up to 8" diameter] ....then on to wire production
Absoutely common place in workshops were shadow boards with..'flogging spanners' [one piece forged ring hexagon with a forged handle with the flogging pad as a part of the forged process]......all neatly and sequently mounted by size
The weight of a 3" AF flogging spanner was maybe 25 lbs........the Fitter would engage the flat faced nut over the machined high tensile washer, , the Foreman would mark the nut & the pad......... the Fitters Mate would swing a 15lb or 28lb spanner until the Foreman agreed, an induced torque had been created or attained by tightening the nut so stretching the thread
The proof of the Pudding was when an Inspector checked the height of each large bolt that confirmed the tension [height] growth achieved
Always quite a Ceremony when the first revolutions were made :-)) during or after any major refit
The Davey/John Brown steel mill drive in the video clearly shows machined flat washers under the heads of Mill Stand drive retaining bolts
Calibrated/adjustable torque wrenches were not introduced for every day use in the steel industry until the mid 30's?......however hydraulic tensioning devices were commonplace in the mill industry in the early 20's.........
So the purpose of the high tensile machined flat washer was to ensure any galling between surfaces did not include the entablature of the machine ...ie., the Nut & the Washer were of lesser cost to replace than rectification to the machine spot facing on the bolt hole
Same applies to any machined model component...the use of a flat washer can protect machined surfaces from damage...keep like for like...a brass washer over a bronze tapping, a steel washer over a steel tapping
Then must agree with George here, no real need for a locknut.....just achieve your estimated level of applied torque....a pump spray of IPA, then a drop of Loctite 243
Derek
-
That’s what I was taught. Forgot the word galling though. On Sulzer Cylinder heads they put the nut on by hand then with an hydraulic jack stretch the stud to a set amount then tighten the nut by hand then lower and remove jack. They don’t do them one at a time but use however many jacks there are studs all combined together. On B&W engines they use larger flogging spanner and ten Chinese Motormen on a swinging battering ram and a song. Noise goes on all night! For other types big spanner and long steel tube, Chief Engineer conducting, 2nd., 3rd., 4th and two juniors on the pipe following Chiefs directions until 2nd engineer farts and that’s one done.
Stuart specify and supply 4 locknuts. 2 5BA for the cross head to little ends. The bolt is threaded into one side of the Conrod (jaws)? If it’s tightened in any way the soft pb jaws bend(easily) and jam everything up. So to avoid this problem bolt done up finger tight ( no distortion) then the locknut screwed on and locked against the pb outer face. If no locknut the bolts would inevitably fall out.
The other two locknuts are 7BA and do a similar job on the valve rod head.
All 4 are flat on both sides and thinner than the standard nuts as supplied
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/18/image4921a9cc0501b6d4.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aHQuV)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/18/imagefcc179fc42376857.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aHE3X) Jerry C.
-
Hi Guys,
Get a grip, we are not interested n how many Chinamen are on the spanner nor the 2nd engineers flatulence, were talking about model engineers nuts and bolts of 2BA & 7BA size
Jerry I dug out the drawing that I built the Launch engine from and it's dated 1972 and in poor condition, it shows a cross section of the completed engine and the Con-Rod eye has only one nut on the pivot pin going thro' the cross head so I would have put a spot of 243 on it, this is a plain shanked bolt so the thread length should stop any pressure on the yoke to cause it to bind as all that is required is to nip the nut up until it hits the thread of the bolt and as said a spot of 243, it will never move or undo.
If I can give you tip on the valve buckle and rod.
To make it easier to adjust the valve I don't screw the rod but make it plain and put a small hex socket grub in the buckle which allows you to adjust the valve between the top and bottom ports without having to dismantle the yoke at the quadrant end to adjust the position of the valve.
As we are discussing BA nuts the one shown in the pic is one that I would assign to the round bucket on the floor.
The 2- pcs are from a D10 build but the same principle.
Derek
As I have never been involved in the process that you describe I just don't have a clue as to what you are talking about, sorry mate.
George
-
Hi Derek. We had a BICC down the road from us near Chester. British United Callender Cables. My mate across the road worked there.
Jerry C.
-
I’m used to big ships Diesel engines. Peculiar to my shipping company Blue Funnel were double acting, opposed piston, two stroke engines with six units. Here’s a drawing of one unit. I’ll give you a clue, there are three pistons in each cylinder.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/18/52B7CE85-5296-4CD2-8905-AC6CF9F34E74.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aHbsT)
Jerry C.
-
Hi Jerry,
I don't have a clue, the drawing is too complex and small to read but I take your word that it's true.
Sometimes on T.V. there are items on the size of engines in modern day very large ships that would make your eyes water.
I have no experience of modern day diesel engines and it's difficult with such a small drawing to see the conversion from lineal motion to rotary motion which I think this drawing shows, I would need to see a larger drawing to understand it.
I will stick to small model engines and pumps.
George.
P.S. isn't BICC British Insulated Callender Cables who I think bought over Pirelli Cables
-
Jerry......one of many obnoxious Doxford engines........technically advanced, but very difficult to work on to maintain or to resolve a simple fault....
...& yes BICC was British Insulated CC
Derek
-
Small version was pyro......a "xxxxx" to strip and terminate.... :D
-
Hi Derek. These were B&W built at Harland &Wolf in Belfast. Not Doxfords. Doxfords built opposed piston engines but not double acters. There were continuous fights between B&W and Doxfords over patents. B&W used eccentrics for the exhaust pistons Doxfords had to use a crank. B&W used telescopic rods to carry exhaust cylinder coolant so Doxfords used problematic wobbly pipes.
I sailed on several ships using these “double bangers”. They was a lot of work for the engineers in port, especially the third engineer who looked after the fuel valves and the gas pumps that drove them. The scavenging was by chain driven? Rootes blower with a huge reversing flap for going astern.
There was a lot of talk about scavenge fires and iron fires but I don’t recall any. Same as on the Ton Class sweepers with their Deltics. I remember when shadowing a Russian AGI how it knew the exact speed range they were at risk of exhaust fires from lube oil throwover. We had to alternate from one engine to two to maintain station.
Jerry C.
-
Oh it must have been a complicated system, Burmeisters being built under License to Harland....then later IHI to Sulzer,..the MAN+B&W ...to Kawazaki-MAN
Previous reading suggested the British Patient Courts needed to appoint a Judge with a Professional Engineering + a Legal Qualification to provide impartial judgements as the representations made by various Plaintiffs using their own Private Engineering cases were seen as biased >>:-(
It is clear that the Danish & German had the everlasting edge over England during that 100 year period
Anyway...back to your machining build......
Why did you need a new 4 jaw chuck?.........did the old one die? & is the replacement a 100 mm sizing with a 84 PCD mounting?
Derek
-
It’s an 80mm dia. Independent reversible 4 jaw. 4x 6mm studs and nuts, 65mm PCD. The adjusters are secured by 4 u plugs from the rear. One of lost the ends allowing the adjuster to float and jam. I ordered a replacement over 5 weeks ago which went astray. They’re chasing up on the courier. I’m going to try and make one tomorrow.
Jerry C.
-
Whilst off topic, its seems appropriate - have you seen this - its amazing!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2drej_qeRSA
Cheers
Geoff
-
That’s just a wee baby.
Jerry C.
-
Must have been really good for your hearing working beside that for weeks on end. Awesome though.
-
Andy. I wasn’t an engineer, I was a Navigating Officer, on the bridge, right in front of the exhausts (Funnel). The pressure waves ensured hearing damage as did being on the bridge when the Mk 8 4.5 let fly doing RNR training. I’m deaf. The big engines didn’t make much noise, more like heavy breathing. The fans, turbochargers, pumps and generators made a phenomenal racket. My audiologist told me I had “engineers Ear”. Merchant Navy and Royal Navy personnel can’t claim industrial injuries benefit. Thanks for our service my 'bottom'.
Jerry C.
-
Back to the build. A new friend who is Skipper of the steam paddle boat on lake Burley-Griffin came over with some materials for me. One pice was a 4’ length of stainless steel plate off the bottom of a cooker or something. It’s metric an 2 1/2 thou thinner than 1/16”. I made the crosshead slides from this. It took me half a day just to mark it out and centre punch every hole. I need new specs as even with an illuminated magnifying glass I had great difficulty lining up the tip of my smallest centre drill with the marks. A trip into Fyshwick to but a 3/16” slot cutting tool (good quality and expensive) lead me by accident to a treasure trove store for me. They actually have a stock of materials, brass, s/s, bar, rod and hexagonal bar. I asked if they had any stub drills. He dug out a Dorman imperial set which looked a bit outside my price range. When I asked how much.... $375 I nearly fell over. He asked if I was a member of the local model engineering club cos if I was he could let me have them for $210. I still had to pass. I’ve got Number Drills you can buy one at a time if you need them he said. There are two number drills specified on the plans but I’d already drilled them with a drill from a batch of cheap decimal metric drills which was near enough to make no difference. It’s really annoying as in UK I bought a full set of Number and Letter drills for £25 from Screwfix. They were just lying on the counter. The girl that served me said nobody had any idea what they were!
Got to go on a bicycle ride with my daughter and don’t way to lose this so I’ll post it and get back to it later. TTFN.
Jerry C.
-
Anyway, the first one went well with no incident. I cut the blanks with a hacksaw and sanded them to size in the belt sander. Blued them up with a magic marker and marked the four holes followed by the centre and ends of the slot. Shipped the piece in the milling vice on thin parallels. Centre drilled the four holes and a line down the centre of the slot. Drilled the securing holes and put. 90° counter sink in the holes at one end. Drilled out the slot with one size down from 3/16” then shipped my new slot cutter and cut out the slot. Reversed the piece in the vice and counter sunk the the two holes in the other end. Removed the piece, demurred and filed each end of the slot square. Perfik. The second piece didn’t go so well. First mistake was countersinking the third hole on the wrong side before I cut out the slot. Caught myself and no worries as the screws locate on the countersink so did the other side. Phew. But the slot cutting didn’t go so well. Half way up the slot deviated. Something moved. Never did find out what. Any way it was only a bit and won’t cause a problem in use. I’ll make another later because I can see it.
Using plate 2 1/2 thou undersized does have an issue because top and bottom fixings are on opposite sides so the plate will not be parallel to the axis of the piston rod. I planned to make four shims from an aluminium cake can but when I measured the thickness it was 3 thou. I didn’t think that was too bad but then wondered if I used a Diet Coke can if it would be thinner. Measured one and bigger me it’s 2/ 1/2 thou!! I made the shins with a pair of scissors and placed them under the plates and drilled through the holes into a block of wood. Fitted the first one and everything spot on. The holes I’d drilled in the p/b support bracket we’re not in the correct place so I machine some brass 7BA studs indeed plugged the holes with a bit of Loctite to glue them in. Pet the plate on secured at the top and drilled the new holes in the support bracket and tapped them 7 BA. Fitted the two c/s screws and shins. The plate was way out. Not parallel to the axis of the piston rod. The p/b bracket must have bent when I machined it. Measurements showed I needed to remove 15 thou where the bottom screws go. 5 minutes with the file and it came out right. Me and p/b don’t get on!
As I’ve still not received my replacement 4 jaw chuck I decided to make a mandrel with a 5 BA thread on 1/4” of 1/4” mild steel round bar. Made the mandrel in the 3 jaw chuck and left it there and screwed the piston rod end of the crossheads on the mandrel and rounded off the top ends of the crossheads. Removed the crossheads and replace on the mandrel and turned the sliding face to thickness leaving a 3/16” boss which located in the slot in the slides.
Fitted one conrod onto crosshead and crankshaft. Big end of conrod fouls bedplate which was a puzzle as I’d Maxine’s it to the correct size. Out with the Dremel and relieved the sides. Will do it properly later. Rotated crank shaft and everything works but there are two tight spots. Removed bottled cap, marked the bearing surfaces with magic marker, refitted end cap, spun it up on a drill for a few seconds before removing end cap again and looking at the Wear pattern. It seems when I machined the sides of the big ends rather then leave a burr it left a slight bulge. Rant the 5/16” reamer through and cleared it. Still a very slight tight spot so ran it in for a bit either the drill. Disaster! I didn’t put the locknut on the crosshead bolt and it unscrewed itself, resulting in a bent threaded end of the piston rod and a ski jump shaped slide. Saved it, straightened the thread, it didn’t break, straightened the slide and reassembled, with locknut this time. It spins over nicely with no tight spots or play. Will do the other side shortly.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/24/983FEF2E-1F54-4A2F-9FD3-3C7D74D43381.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/auGdB)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/24/A322678B-A479-4A4F-840D-0CE73EA095FE.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/auiTh)
Two things I’ve noticed 1) on the drawing for the slides the dimensions are correct but but when you offer up the part to the drawing the drawing is about 1/4” too long and 2) the brass washer on the crosshead fouls the bracket at the bottom of the stroke. I’ll put them on the mandrel and reduce them to clear. They don’t look the part anyway and spoil the model especially the Cheesehead screws.
3) I’ve spent more time looking for nuts I’ve dropped than in actually making things. The position they are eventually found in defies Physics! Why the hell do Stuarts supply the exact amount required?!! I’m still live in hope that I’ll find that tiny grubscrew that goes in the eccentric.
It was 48°C in the shed today and after that bike ride I’m shattered.
Night all.
Jerry C.
-
Sounds like you've had your fair share of "learning opportunities" there Jerry. Nothing a bit of ingenuity and a few choice words of Welsh couldn't sort out though. Coming along very nicely, and it's encouraging to those following that you deal with the little setbacks as a matter of course, not as some great drama. Well done.
Always a pleasure to read your posts.
Greg
-
Thanks Greg. I’ve never worked with phosphor bronze. It appears to have the power to morph. Has similar properties to toffee! It doesn’t cut but just seems to slither round the corner, waiting for me when I remove the piece. I’m looking forward to getting my Xmas present of X Y Z DRO kit next month. Having z and y on 40thou/rev wheels and z on 50 thou/rev wheels has resulted in more than one opportunity to work round. I work in a corrugated iron double garage with one small window. Can’t have the side door open for ventilation in case the puppy gets out. If it’s not heat then it’s flies or spiders. Have you ever watched Joe Pie on YouTube? Nothing bad happens, everything always ends up perfik. He does have the best of everything though. Days off this week as it’s a national holiday for Australia Day.
Jerry C.
-
(. 1) on the drawing for the slides the dimensions are correct but but when you offer up the part to the drawing the drawing is about 1/4” too long )
Jerry
Didn't your teacher at school tell you never to lift dimensions from a drawing nor to offer a part to the drawing to check for length E.C.T. ??
It's one of the first rules that gets drummed into you as an apprentice fitter or machinist. ??
George.
<*< <*<
-
We were always told "Do not scale from drawing", yet one of the places I worked at we made instrument panels on a CNC mill, one of the things we used to do was make test panels out of clear plex, so you could drop it on the drawing and see if everything matched.
Gerald.
-
I love the expression which was pounded into me from my Dad.....
"Check from actual Job"
And if you have ever built anything from LBSC's drawings you will understand {-) {-) {-) {-)
-
Know what you mean Phil,
Try making his small Weir type vertical boiler feed pump, tried to about 7 years ago, still have the parts in a box somewhere., LBSC bless him !!!!
-
George, I didn’t lift from the drawing I used the numbered dimensions as stated on the plan. I then noticed that it didn’t fit the drawing. My drawings which I paid a great deal of money for are dated 1972 and 1955 amendments 1970. I know not to measure from the plan because paper swells and shrinks so I used stated dimensions. I always offer a part up to the plans to see if I’ve made a Horlicks of anything. But 1/4” out, honestly? That’s a mistake and should have been corrected long ago!
Jerry C.
-
Hi Jerry,
I see what you mean,
The drawing at 1/1 the slide measures 2.375 " and when you add up the dimensions on the drawing you get 1.187"----3/16" shorter
It would appear that these drawings have been printed and printed so many times that inaccurate dimensions have never been corrected.
The price of the drawings as a separate item is very expensive for what you get, did the drawings come with the castings or did you have to buy it separately ?
It's a pity that you didn't say at the start of your thoughts on this engine as I could have posted the drawings to you the same as I did for the Scotch return flue boiler that I gave you when you still lived in Wales and all F.O.C. which would have saved you a few $ dollars.
Never mind you are making a good job of the engine and you will overcome some of the mistakes on the drawings.
George.
-
Hi George, £321 ex vat for drawings I sheet for basic engine, additional drawing for reversing gear and mods. Plus castings. No other materials supplied. Oil cups and drain cocks extra.
Piston rings and graphited yarn missing.
Jerry C.
-
Oh! And £75 postage TNT to Oz.
Jerry C.
-
Jerry,
Them's crazy prices, it's a wonder that people still by from them and the items that used to be included in casting sets no longer are included.
I don't know when the last time I bought from them, think it was when they were in the Channel Islands, people are still complaining about the quality of the castings as there is not enough meat on them to get to the correct size and like you I have experienced chilled spots in castings but can't send them back as I usually buy on e-bay.
I have noticed many of these complaints on a few of the Engineering forums but still Stuart does nothing about it.
Soldier on my friend and think of another engine for your next project, not Stuart Turner.!!!!!
George.
-
The day before yesterday I went to my newly discovered machinery suppliers to get a 300mm brass rod, a HSS 1/4” tool blank, a 5/32x40tpi ME, no. 1 tap and die and a 3/16” taper reamer all for making the drain cocks. The guy said he’d have to order in the tap, die and reamer. Great I said. Next morning I get a phone call saying they’re in. Wow they must have a beam me up Scotty machine. Went in, he handed them over and said $388! I nearly fainted. How much I yelped. He did a check on the paperwork and said sorry $308! I suppose it’s my own fault for not asking for a quote but seriously? I said sorry but there’s no way I can afford that. He asked me if I was a member of the Canberra model engineering club. I said my membership is pending. He said in that case I can do them for $208 I said I was sorry for any trouble caused but I couldn’t take them. Really embarrassed. I only paid $57 for a full set of BA taps and dies!
So, I decided to use 4BA instead and I’ll try and make my own reamer. The American guy’s compound build that I’m copying shows them but doesn’t say how he makes them but I’m guessing he machines the taper onto a mild steel rod then grinds it just over half way across at an angle then hardens it. ??? Any advice would be appreciated.
I used his microscope photos based on the size of his 5/32 ME thread to gauge the dimensions of a cock and made a pattern which I will repeat if I’ve got it near enough right.
This is my take. It’s overall protrusion from the cladding is 0.530”. Diameter of globe (rugby ball actually) is 0.260”. Is this anywhere nearly right??
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/29/AF08C09C-4D67-4253-BC57-8217DFB48495.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a0h4l)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/29/988B473F-C2CB-49BF-95B8-6033AA14A87D.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a0nNG)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/29/AF1820B6-2533-4B80-BE57-A251734276C7.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a0XQR)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/29/503FEB43-BF7E-4202-ABA0-299446ACD5D0.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a0WvZ)
It took me 3 hours to grind that 1/4” HSS blank down to that size and shape. My quenching water pot actually got hot and my fingers are really sore. I’ve got a really big bench grinder with a course and fine 9” wheels.
Jerry C.
-
I forgot I made this this morning, apart from the drilling and tapping largely by hand.
Quickly, does it matter which end of the engine the reversing gear goes? If it does I’ve put it on the wrong end! I favour the reversing lever on the flywheel end.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/29/5BF1C300-F928-4327-A534-5A90F8057727.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a0GJn)
Jerry C.
-
Just make a tapered D bit to form the seats for the cocks. Once Ive machined the D bit I make a batch of valves whilst the compound slide is still set so that the angles of dangle match
To make the bodies I use old files softened to make form tools then re temper.Makes life a bit easier
cheers
-
Many thanks Frazer. That’s given me something to think about. However all my files are new, even my 10 year old ones. Lol.
Jerry C.
-
When I was working at machining I used to just order stuff from the supplier without worrying about the price. I soon learned once I started ordering for myself to always ask the price after the first time I ordered stuff and found out about restocking fees, sometimes half the price of the item. I used to have a buddy that was into knife making and he had a heat treating oven and was quite versed in heat treating. I would make up a part, he would heat treat and temper the parts for me.
Gerald.
-
I’ve continued working on the drain cocks. I don’t have any 8 BA nuts or hex bar to make them from so I went for M3 threads for the cock handles. I also don’t have any suitable coil springs so tried s/s plain and spring washers and nuts I found if I use Loctite on the threads and apply a small amount of compression on the spring washers the cocks work well. I used a duff cock tightened into the body to have a practice at bending the handles. I rigged up my makeshift hearth and using a small pencil gas torch on the bit I want to bend. I could get the bit slightly red. The body was screwed into a round cylinder of brass immersed up to the top in a tin of water to protect the parts from unwanted heat. After everything cooled down it proved easy to put a 45° bend in the handle. I used to do similar when annealing the necks of cartridges prior to reloading.
As I have been watching the guy doing the compound engine build I’ve been using his pics to get the scale approximately right based on the size of his BA threads. I did notice one anomaly though when he showed a pic of the nut which he described as 1/6” A/F which is smaller than an 8BA thread diameter??? Not a criticism mind just an observation as he’s been very helpfully and informative. I suspect my attempts may be a bit larger than his, certainly a tad longer as my globes are more oblate compared to his spherical ones. Not having seen these parts in the flesh it’s difficult to know one way or tother. I used 6° for the taper on my first home made taper D bit which I made from bright steel 3/16” rod which I hardened with heat and quenched in oil. It wouldn’t cut butter and split the body apart. After this I noticed a burr on one of the cutting edges. I removed this with a file and tried again on another part and it worked perfectly turning and cutting in either direction.
For the taper on the handle I used the same 6° but the thick end looked ridiculously thick so changed to 3° which looks much better. Two more to do and they’re done.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/01/31/image.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a0YNp)
Jerry C.
-
I’ve finished work on the drain cocks. I’ve left the threaded parts long in case I find some springs. 3/16” brass hex bar on the way for the nuts. I’ll start working on the connecting rod doofers for the reversing gear. Il be using exactly the same method as the compound guy.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/02/02/249B5FCF-5DC3-4478-ABF6-CBDABFCFD564.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a0bnD)
Jerry C.
-
Really nice work on the drain cocks Jerry, they really look the part :-))
-
Thanks Phil. I thought they could be smaller but I’m happy with them. The bends in the handles need a little attention for symmetry purposes and I rounded the ends of the handles by mistake so a little work with a file will sort that out.
I’ve been working on the two connecting rods just copying the American guys method. These have proved the most difficult of the parts I’ve made so far and also the most scary, fingers very close to sharp, spinny, liable to take charge bits. Using the vice in the milling attachment without a collet chuck means I’m also in close proximity to the chuck jaws too. However, job done and inventory of fingers tallies with what I started off with! Dressed with file and Scothbrite and I’m happy with the result.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/02/05/D8069449-5C97-4423-805F-0512E8A728AA.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a0qp1)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/02/05/22F7CB48-007F-4497-96F9-24146B5EE273.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a0kPR)
Jerry C.
-
On completion of the connecting rods I made a start on the expansion links by marking out with blue and a pair of dividers. While studying the plan however I discovered mention of a 1/32” pin through the hole for the drag links. The fittings list mentions three 1/16” pins for locking the connecting rods and reversing lever to the reversing shaft but no mention of the clearly marked (if you’re lucky) 1/32” pin. The American guy never mentioned it either. I’m puzzled what it’s purpose is meant to be???
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/02/05/image.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a92HG)
I’ve drawn a circle round it I the plan just above the steel plate. Do you get a prize off Start if you discover it?
Jerry C.
-
Jerry,
The 3/32" hole circled is for the drag links, the other 2- are for the eccentric sheaves.
The drag links need to have a plain long bolt , ( not Machine screws ) as it is a pivotal hinge as do the holes for the sheaves.
Look at the drawing Item No 5 which calls for 4- off drag links, one end to the circled hole and the other to the link lever [size=78%]on the weigh shaft.[/size]
If you don't have any long Bolts make them from 3/32" dia rod.
George.
-
I found it George. Woken by a thunderstorm during the night and it came to me. On the sheet showing parts not included in kit “Expansion Link Pins 1/32” ø pins mild steel 1/32” ø Wire”. Drilling through expansion links and 7BA bolt is going to be challenging to say the least. I suppose you just push the wires through the holes and twist them for added security. I may choose to leave this step out.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/02/06/D0205CA0-0A8B-4491-BA20-A1BDA5B15D81.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a9ZWn)
Jerry C.
-
I rigged up the gear for milling the expansion links. Bolted to a pin at the centre held in the vice. First chain drilled the slot then drilled the three holes #38 (2.6mm for me). Then milled the slot using small mole grips as a lever, followed by the top curve. Finished the rest with hacksaw, files and Dremel. It fits. Marked up for the second one. Fitted the first one on the plate and spray painted the lot. When dry marked all the way round with a scalpel.
We’re off on our holibobs to the coast on Monday for a week as the house is being painted.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/02/06/68B6D871-D293-4127-93C9-6936251B4553.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a91zK)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/02/06/60934E87-7836-4A4C-B18E-BE660CC15E0F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a9fVm)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/02/06/31731ED9-82F1-4AFA-8645-27E1E55EC4D0.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a9ae2)
Jerry C.
-
I found it George. Woken by a thunderstorm during the night and it came to me. On the sheet showing parts not included in kit “Expansion Link Pins 1/32” ø pins mild steel 1/32” ø Wire”. Drilling through expansion links and 7BA bolt is going to be challenging to say the least. I suppose you just push the wires through the holes and twist them for added security. I may choose to leave this step out.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/02/06/D0205CA0-0A8B-4491-BA20-A1BDA5B15D81.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a9ZWn)
Jerry C.
Jerry,
There is nothing hard about making the long bolts to go thro' the holes in the drag links and the quadrant.
Take a piece of 3/32" dia rod ( wire ) and cut it to the length thro the links plus leave enough on to screw both ends 7B.A. push the rod thro the links and the Quadrant , put on a 7B.A. nut with a little Loctite 243 on 1- nut ( the outside bolt ) until the job is finished and then 243 the other one and they will never move.
Regarding the bolts 4-off for the eccentric sheaves are they not included in the kit of parts.
I am assuming that you have stock and dies for 7B.A. threads.
Have a good holiday and forget about your engine until you get back.
George.
-
That engine is looking great Jerry and its turned into a proper engineering challenge :-)) Have a great holiday mate - we may even let you back into the UK soon {-)
-
Hollibobs over so back to work. Today, first job, take plans and fittings lists to Office Works to get them laminated. I can’t think why I never did it as soon as I got the kit. Luckily they’re all still readable so anyone buying a kit get them laminated straight out of the box. I completed second expansion link which took about an hour. Marked up for the two expansion dies which fit nicely into the gap on the donor steel plate. (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/02/16/EBCC6DCF-7924-4B71-B0F3-B286C32697DD.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a9E3w)
I’ll box those off tomorrow on the belt sander then move on to the draglinks.
Still no new 4 jaw chuck. I’ll give it another week then ask for a refund and order from local. This has gone on longer than any order from India or China and this is from Sydney so they’re taking the pee now.
Jerry C.
-
I don't go as far as laminating plans, but I do make an "archive" set of copies. Also using an office type copy machine I make a copy of the section of a large plan sheet needed at the time.. don't have the counter/bench space for a large sheet..
-
My working bench/table is a 4’x4’ ALDI circular saw table. The plans were getting oily and frayed. Cost of laminating two plans and two A4 sheets of fittings only£7. Next time I buy the kit I’ll only need castings and fasteners. A big saving.
Jerry C.
-
My working bench/table is a 4’x4’ ALDI circular saw table. The plans were getting oily and frayed. Cost of laminating two plans and two A4 sheets of fittings only£7. Next time I buy the kit I’ll only need castings and fasteners. A big saving.
Jerry C.
Hi Jerry,
Hope that you had a good holiday break, don't get too enthusiastic in a saving as you already have the drawings and parts list of the Launch engine.
If I recall Mick Brown ( patternmaker ) when he ordered the castings for his launch engine he wanted a reduction of the cost of the drawings which they would not do as they said the package was as the listed price which included the drawings and no discount was available.
He tried this as I was going to give him my drawings of the Launch engine and reverse gear for him to use and send back when finished, Stuart may have changed their policy now as it was a long time ago when he asked, don't hold your breath. !!!!!!!!!!.
George.
-
Since the holiday I’ve been training for my second attempt at the Southern Ocean Road cycling trip that was cancelled at the last minute last year due to the virus. If all goes well we will fly down to Melbourne instead of using the train. Three days after we finish that it’s the Big Canberra Bike Ride also cancelled last year.
In between I’ve made more progress on the engine. Made the expansion dies and a few spares for the next build. No machining for these, drill, hacksaw and file. Quicker than machining.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/02/23/1A8E104D-DB49-4B79-9329-754D08AB8971.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aC3T3)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/02/23/A0DBD3C5-C3E8-4BF5-BCC3-2C3CD5E27C9E.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aCP2D)
Moved on to the drag links following the same method as in the compound build. Only problem was in the 7mm square stock. It's quality was a bit hit and miss. Milling would be great then a hard bit appeared which completely dulled the end mill. I went through nearly all of my cheap Chinese set. Finally managed to finish them with the slot drill I used to make the crosshead slides. Suffered terribly with metal splinters in hands and fingers. Must stay away from any magnetic compasses for a bit. Everything appears to work smoothly except one position when top of strap just fouled the valve rod head but that’s a simple fix.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/02/23/CAD2540E-C0D0-40BA-B81E-148CD44DF781.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aCyUS)
Next I start on the reversing lever.
Also I’ve finally given up waiting for the replacement 4 jaw chuck which the courier swears he’s delivered. So it’s a refund and I’ve got one from another source arriving this week.
Jerry C.
-
I invested $35 in a Sutton Tools 1/4” 4 flute end mill which made short work of these reversing levers. I shipped two 1/4x5/16 pieces of m/s bar stock in the milling vice and drilled the two holes simultaneously and carried on replacing the second bar after each operation saving set up time. Don’t know why I didn’t do this with other parts. Will duplicate all the rest though.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/02/26/4FACB34C-0B92-4518-86E1-B49A00E11FC1.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aCiTm)
Next will be the anchor rod. Intend making from an old tent peg, thread rod and end collar as one part and will silver solder the other collar when I assemble this group.
At last I have received my new 4 jaw chuck which I used to turn the handles of the reversing levers.
Jerry C.
-
I’m ok. Nothing wrong. Been on Slow Ocean Road cycling tour with Alltrails. Then final training for Big Canberra Bike Ride which was cancelled due to a “weather bomb”. Not once did the weather forecast say there was anything coming. And it never did. Now moving house so workshop stripped and packed up and moved in dribs and drabs to new house in Queanbeyan NSW. In process of reassembled. Then we’ve got to move everything else. Going to take a while but we’ve got a ute, two trailers and two cars to do the job with. A few things will need a panel truck but may borrow one. Hope to be back in action in three weeks.
Jerry C.
-
Good luck with the move Jerry - hope you can find everything afterwards! We will be patient until you are up and running again. :-))
Greg
-
House move completed, workshop rebuilt. Engine finished. I dispensed with grub screws in the eccentrics and flywheel and used industrial superglue. Timing is correct and will stay that way.
Plinth made from Blackwood and danish oiled. Drainage channels built in. Need to source silicone o-rings to replace piston rings and Teflon coated yarn for gland packing. On another subject I need a new toothed drive belt for mini lathe. Approx 16” x 3/8” 10 tpi . Can’t find one anywhere. Can anyone help?
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/10/E149CDAA-4518-4A92-9AA5-FF88A1F8E598.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/axzE5)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/10/EDB63035-A769-4587-9849-76F94AA41DAB.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/axMCP)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/10/4658F0D1-831E-417E-A3F8-AC8B96598B8E.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/axIL9)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/10/C1C653D8-A4DA-48C6-A44D-A62FFB65C001.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ax3gL)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/10/21D40EA6-5EF2-4F75-8C8C-E65B053A8697.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/axyXw)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/10/21D40EA6-5EF2-4F75-8C8C-E65B053A8697.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/axyXw)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/10/1B369C59-8160-40C0-B57D-4CD9CC0FBED9.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/axP8o)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/10/AFAED702-36C6-4F4D-8AF9-67175DF148ED.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ax1xK)
I’ll rig up some compressed air and start bedding in.
We get our first vaccine jab next week then 3 months till no 2 then we can see about getting home. Well spend a year on the canals to try and catch up what we’ve missed by being stuck in Oz. Freezing here atm.
Jerry C
-
Great you are back Jerry, the engine came out really well (love the maroon colour my grandfather always finished his engines like that) and the base just adds to it.
-
HiJerry,
Neat job well done, if you want I have 2- off Silicone "O" rings 1" o/d that I will never use, so you can have them F.O.C.
P.M. your address if you want them and I will post them out to you on Monday.
George.
P.S. I think that you have made a mistake by gluing on the eccentrics and the fly wheel, especially the fly wheel , how are you going to drill in pins for a disc drive prop shaft ? if you can't remove the fly wheel, and if the timing needs altered how can you do it.
-
Good to see you back Jerry :-))
-
Thanks Mark, it’s good to be back but a bit nippy in the shed.
When I made the engine for “Canberra “ I made this regulator but it wasn’t suitable for piston valves so I just held on to it for a rainy day. Yesterday I dug it out and had a look at it and decided to add a connection to the input side. It just fits between the drain cocks. The addition connection on the left is for the displacement oiler. I’ve done a drawing for the oiler today, I’ll need a 1/2” tap and die to do the filler cap. M. E. Taps and dies only available here from China with 5 week delivery time so I’ll order a 1/2” x20tpi UNF plug tap and die locally for $50 which should arrive next week all being well so I’ll make a couple more, one for the next build and one to sell.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/14/7BB21696-BCAD-4D10-8DBE-74D74D9F8E0C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/axrS9)
For the next regulator I’ll make two steam outlets and fit it directly to the steam inlet pipes doing away with the tee piece, Actually, now I think about it I’ll do that to this one!
Jerry C
-
For the last 3 working days I have mostly been drawing up plans for displacement Oilers. These hold 10ccs each. Im just waiting on a set of 1/2”x20 UNF taps and die for the top caps. A bit of silver soldering tomorrow and they’re done. One for this engine and the other for a pattern for the next engine.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/20/CA720009-C074-4716-9384-C566425B3E7F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a4lze)
Finally last years Christmas pressie has arrived from Aussie Tools. They have been out of stock plus moved their shop to a new location like us.
When we were on our boat two years ago I bought some callipers in ALDI. Later I noticed a small sliding door on the body which on removal uncovered a mini USB socket. I wondered at the time what it was for. Anyway I saw this DRO set on Aussie Tools website. It’s rudimentary but for $280 for 3 axis I thought I’d give it a go. The display has magnetic mounting and is mains powered via a USB brick. It doesn’t do absolute readings and bolt circle calculations but if I can mount it all to my lathe it will stop me counting wheel rotations etc and eliminate backlash calculations.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/20/4CC65037-1AFE-483C-87F0-45CC2E7D5ACF.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a4ekB)
Next job is to slim down the regulator, plug a few holes and make new connections and hopefully it will sit between the drain cocks which will need the threads and springs shortening so they don’t foul the regulator.
Jerry C.
-
Bonjour Jerry,
Your oilers are beautiful, as professional as Stuart ones :-))
My concern with them is that I have never the room to empty them by the bottom in my hulls, so I have to use a syringe and the adlustement needle is in its middle :((
A friend of mine found an original solution that I have never seen before and after at 7'47": https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOjylZzQyeA&t=205s
-
Merci mon ami. Using the metering needle I can shut off the steam inlet and refill the oiler when boiler is steaming. As to draining the condensate I let it out directly into the bilges. I’m thinking of making an éducateur using a blowdown valve and a Venturi tube to act as a bilge pump. Sorry about the large font there.
[/size][/color]
[/size]Jerry C. [/color]
-
As promised, skimmed down the regulator, plugged one hole underneath and shortened the drain cock threads. I also made some 3/16” A/F brass nuts tapped 3mm to replace the rather bulky s/s metric nuts. Better aesthetics I think. All silver soldered but in one thread the solder didn’t run through the joint and that was my last 1/4” so will order more. The UNF 1/2”/ 20 tap and die set I ordered arrived so I cut the cap thread in one of the oilers. I couldn’t for the life of me get the plug tap to start. So I’ve now got no 1, no. 2 and a left hand thread plug tap. Now being the only bloke for 50 kM in possession of a left hand. 1/2” UNF tap does have kudos attached but won’t get me to the bottom of a blind hole. Got in touch with the seller and he’s sending a replacement plug tap and has let me keep the left handed one.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/23/0D48F907-452F-4A7D-98BD-4797EBAA92A0.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a7ajK)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/23/1A4B7C65-493C-4CA6-ACDB-1092F443F037.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a7Zhm)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/23/847FDD80-E74B-4721-8B4D-3BD0B5C6A0D2.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/a7Jf2)
Jerry C.
-
It’s taken 4 days to fit DRO kit. A lot of experimentation and thought to get it right and to give some protection to the senders on the lathe. They don’t need the batteries in them as power comes via the mini USB cables. So hurrah for X Y and Z.
What’s interesting is that one full turn of the 40th per turn wheels is actually only 39.5 thou. I haven’t measured the 50thou vertical
slide yet.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/29/1807D40E-14D4-41FC-8FA8-35E915D5CD05.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/asy75)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/29/6E408B08-26B6-4E70-A167-C62AD196864B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/as6Zv)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/29/159E06D7-4D7F-487D-9B7D-2AC2B017F17E.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/asLWf)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/29/98E0E29F-B131-4400-BA1F-85CB618C9ABC.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/asIF4)
[(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/29/17FD86B8-86BA-4A39-89CE-114E45660A36.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/asKzB)url=https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/asIF4]
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/06/29/A81A4F7C-2A60-4112-8607-7C1D31FBE337.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/asMVh)
Jerry C.
-
Are you sure one turn of the hand wheel is not 39.37 thou?
-
Wheel is meant to be 40thou/rev. DRO spec. To 1/2 thou. Consistant reading 0.0395.....0.079.....0.1185 et al.
I don’t have a micrometer or gauge blocks/pins to check but I seem to remember a micrometer works on a thread of 40tpi. Depends on how accurate the thread is I suppose.
Jerry C.
-
My comment was a little tongue in cheek, 39.37thou is one millimetre. My guess is you have a Swiss metric screw masquerading as a Chinese imperial screw.
-
..."a Swiss metric screw masquerading as a Chinese imperial screw"....haha...love it {-)
-
OK, I’ve been trying all morning to say masquerading with my tongue in my cheek. It’s impossible, truft me.
These are my wheels/dials or whatever.
(https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/blob:https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/71426969-c032-4d9d-b17d-9396788a0237)(https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/blob:https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/fbae5bb7-844c-4696-8057-cc9539f2aafd)(https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/blob:https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/832b05fe-e2a9-482e-afe2-4aa445e893c8)(https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/blob:https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/ae9d8672-68b8-4bae-8be8-f799f3d31ff4)(https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/blob:https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/0f812be0-c690-440d-9ba9-200381e89d49)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/01/EF190A02-ACD6-47C7-982A-B0EDBB61FFA3.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/asgan)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/01/FD6FAA6A-2954-4212-BF8F-894EEE9D6E7C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/asARl)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/01/600F26E5-90F0-4E55-8129-AE56E8075B2D.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aswuZ)
Always worked in imperial.
Jerry C.
-
Final pics in my studio. It folds up, has built in led lights via USB and a choice of background.
A present from Mary.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/01/3C2A4045-49B0-4646-A6CE-398961AEB98C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/asmh2)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/01/A49D08AF-58EA-47C4-820C-9F8C223830D8.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aslzo)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/01/7976FAF2-EE12-4E49-8E34-F93E14D8B263.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/asxww)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/01/0087BB34-A00B-4465-9A0D-0810A3006C76.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/assu9)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/01/A039532F-8AB6-4A57-A7E2-0EC364054BAF.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/as5sP)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/01/61D7FF85-55BC-4380-A5F8-EC1FC25469E7.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/asbhv)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/01/86740D64-333A-4C09-BB48-5A824B9DF385.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/asQa5)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/01/EAF83500-22AD-49CD-822A-3D6D80755793.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aspjf)
I’ll just have to dig out the compressor, hasn’t been seen since the house move.
Jerry C.
-
I’ve been finessing the build. I wasn’t too pleased with the valves I made. The exhaust square wasn’t right so I made two new ones together with the adjuster blocks. Much better second time around. I ordered some o rings to replace the piston rings. When I made the pistons I think they were meant to take two rings each but Stuart only supplied two rings so I made the piston ring grooves smaller in width to suit. The grooves need to be wider to take o rings. While turning the new grooves I sheared off the top of one piston rods and I had to make another.
Finally I packed the piston and valve rod glands with graphited yarn.
So she’s all ready for running in on air. I’ll make an adapter to take our compressor hose and running it on air. Then I’ll see about putting her up for sale.
Now I’ve fitted the DRO kit to the lathe I need to make a nice wheel on the end of the feed screw. Looked at the prices of aluminium billet here and decided to take another route. I bought a set of box spanner’s from the local Chinese store for $8. I cut the one with 14mm a/f end in half and made it into a handle. I removed the 14mm a/f nut from the end of the lead screw and drove it into the socket of the box spanner and secured it with super glue. Then I made a handle to fit through the tube. It works ok if a bit ugly.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/12/2BC9119F-B07D-4BBE-BBFB-A65AB5E37830.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aEGoQ)
Jerry C.
-
Excellent workmanship - well done. On one of my models the displacement lubricator seal began to leak and despite changing the "O" ring it still leaked. I cured this by putting a ring of brass about 6mm round the edge of the cap as this stopped the "O" ring being squashed out and maintained a perfect seal.
I don't know why this happens with some "O" rings and not others - probably the quality.
Cheers
Geoff
-
I thank you for that. The oiler cap and body are recess to trap the o ring.
Jerry C.
-
I knocked up an air connection, dug out the compressor and flashed it up. Loads of oil and off she goes.
Here’s a link, [size=78%]https://youtu.be/6DBW5Umn864 (https://youtu.be/6DBW5Umn864)[/size]
No fingers were lost in this adventure and only two bits fell off!
Enjoy.
Jerry C.
-
I wasn’t happy with the regulator it was all wrong so I made a new one, a fraction larger over all for a spanner to fit the union nuts. I also added two small pillars to the back resting on the cylinder lagging plate to prevent any untoward movement. Wrapped the steam inlet manifold with string, coated with plaster of Paris and painted gloss white. It’s going up on Facebook marketplace for sale tomorrow.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/23/9B9F82DD-57D2-4689-87E9-7B3C6E0095B8.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aQBFS)
Jerry C.
-
Bonjour Jerry,
I am not on any social netwok <:( Could you tell me by MP your price ?
And, as you are a good mechanic, please let me suggest you a last enhancement, add a screw on the cylinder heads to let the user add some oil in after a run, example on one of my D10 : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtoQT9tvom4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtoQT9tvom4)
-
Merci Rhavrane, after a run I inject WD40 into the cylinder drain cocks with a hypodermic syringe. Using this method I can clear water from above and below the pistons. I buy WD40 in 5 litre containers as aerosols cans are very expensive and mostly contain propellant.
Jerry C.
-
Hi Jerry what a beautiful job it turned out to be :-)) Almost a shame to sell it mate
-
Cheers Mark. Next one is the triple expansion, too large to fit my little milling attachment so I need to get a decent sized milling machine and loads of tools!
Hoping to return around November time all being well.
Jerry C.
-
Attention Rhavane.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/24/B831018F-1979-4EA8-88A4-964790EBC371.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aQMVm)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/24/9B07D4AA-D984-4A3C-9076-510939E389D5.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aQIe2)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/24/07F53A7B-4C54-4601-A9FF-
[font=Verdana][size=78%]6B646DD227D2.jpg[/size][/font]) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aQ6Zl)
[/size]
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/24/614AE5FF-AC6F-4783-B7A9-C21E6941519C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aQLWn)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/24/20FAB77B-2DD6-4475-A0AD-8E36C91E43EC.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aQyRZ)
Ok?
Jerry C
-
Bonjour Jerry,
Many thanks ok2 And I note that the crew has outfits to match the boat, that's smart :-))
I should go to Birmingham to meet my family in law and go to the pub with you after a little promenade on a canal :}
Where do you store your boat when you leave it for a while ? Not in a house garage I imagine...
-
We keep the boat in a marina just outside Chester in the north west. We haven’t been aboard for nearly 2 years due to being captive in Australia due to Covid. We monitor her via cctv over the internet. We’re hoping to return around November. However we won’t be coming to Birmingham next year as well be heading north to the Leeds Liverpool Canal. We may then travel south to Birmingham. We could always have a virtual drink over the internet.
Jerry C.
-
We keep the boat in a marina just outside Chester in the north west. We haven’t been aboard for nearly 2 years due to being captive in Australia due to Covid. We monitor her via cctv over the internet. We’re hoping to return around November. However we won’t be coming to Birmingham next year as well be heading north to the Leeds Liverpool Canal. We may then travel south to Birmingham. We could always have a virtual drink over the internet.
Jerry C.
I reckon we should all meet up at the Black Country and have a few beers together. Raphael I'll bring my little tug over too as this is just outside of Birmingham :)
-
Cheers Mark. Next one is the triple expansion, too large to fit my little milling attachment so I need to get a decent sized milling machine and loads of tools!
Hoping to return around November time all being well.
Jerry C.
I hope so Jerry would be good to meet up :). I've just bought a Sherline mill from a UK supplier and all I can say is WOW!!! What an amazingly accurate bit of tooling and I would have thought big enough for your needs. Its will take end mills with a shank diameter of 3/8 if you want it too. A very powerful little machine mate
-
This is the mill I’m going for
It’s $1150au.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/25/30F48134-28AC-4E6E-939A-E40B49201AD0.jpg)
Jerry C.
-
Cheers Mark. Next one is the triple expansion,
Jerry C.
You don't need all those tools, although I admit the might be useful. My uncle built his in the 1930's, I think, on a foot operated treadle lathe. O0
-
Lovely piece of kit. I’m jealous.
I’ve just been on Stuart’s website and was shocked to see the cost of the triples castings. The engine when compared to the twin doesn’t measure up cost wise. They can fish for that money. I’m not too impressed with them to be honest. They’ve been selling the plans for a century and they still have mistakes on them. Mine came missing piston rings which took a month to reach me in Oz. Shipping cost for the kit was £70. Pistons were too chilled to machine and the valve chest covers have visible chilling around the others. Anyway, change of plan, I’ll go for the twin Compound engine. I may as well continue it on this thread save starting a new one.
Jerry C.
-
Bonjour Jerryn
Do you know this brand ? https://www.multirex.net/tour-a-metaux-500w-moteur-brushless-c2x32004894
https://www.multirex.net/fraiseuse-500w-moteur-brushless-c2x32007586
And I fully agree with you, Stuart is awfully expensive, but in the hands of a good machanic as you are (and my friend Max), you can obtain this result for example : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CtoQT9tvom4&t=183s
-
They’re all more or less the same thing. Mine is exactly the same as this but painted blue.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/183744307087 (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/183744307087)
I may make a D10 some day.
Jerry C.
-
This is my lathe, standard Chinese mini lathe with loads of modifications by me. EG. Chip guards, carriage locks, manual feed screw, digital readout X,Y and Z plus a tyre tread depth gauge attached to the tail stock. Only problem I’ve had is the toothed drive belt is badly worn and I can’t find replacements anywhere. I’ve turned it inside out so I can still use it but not for long.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/26/0C00BA39-E3B1-4F26-BA7D-4F5F4BE6D64B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aQHkf)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/26/E7F73E6B-E1EA-4B8E-B4BA-21370D817A80.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aQvev)
Milling attachment with 50mm vice.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/26/709550FF-2804-41D4-B695-A736A000E967.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aQOW5)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/26/52355FBE-773C-4B66-9E52-02537F20EE6F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aQGaP)
I just need 3 more DRO transmitters for the mill.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/26/2386DDB7-763C-4B4D-B26E-E5803673C64C.md.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aQhR9)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/26/46BE1CD1-328F-4750-A140-9829F1EED216.md.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aQWHp)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/07/26/9802176C-31D3-4289-A640-748863B875D6.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aQnyL)
What suburb of Birmingham do your in laws live in?
Jerry C.
-
Bonjour Jerry,
I am not familiar ith all these tools so I fully trust you hen you say they are similar.
And my family in laws lives at Edgbaston.
-
The next time we go to Birmingham I’ll be going to Edgbaston to watch a test match.
Jerry C.
-
OK, I’m back, this time building the Stuart Compound Twin Engine. The price of the triple was way too much. I’ve put the Twin Launch Engine up for sale here in Oz on Market Place. No takers yet. At the same time I put my motorcycle up for sale as it’s too cold to ride it and we’ll be staying in the UK on the boat for 18 months so it made sense. It sold immediately for $500 more than I paid for it 3 years ago! With the proceeds I bought the aforementioned mill, loads of tools for it and the lathe, the Stuart castings set for the Compound Engine. I ordered stuff from Blackgates Engineering, enough nuts to replace all the nuts on both engine to freshen up the two engines as they suffer wear from over spannering during repeated assemblies.
Two sets of the lazer cut BA spanner’s as my first set are worn out and some other stuff. I’ve also ordered a 3” rotary table from India which will take about 6 weeks to arrive.
The mill is superb for the money, it came with a starter kit comprising a selection MT3 collets, a nice 3” machine vice (they obviously didn’t have one so sent a 4” instead), and a small fixings kit. Everything’s stowed away in my new drawer set up, the mill is mounted on the bench and trammed. I be fitted X, Y and Z axis DRO transmitters to it and I can swap over the display and wire connections from the lathe quickly enough when needed.
So, everything’s up and running. I ordered the mill and the Stuart kit at the same time and the Stuart stuff got from UK to Oz in 2 1/2 days with TNT and arrived when they said it would. The mill and tools came from Membourne 5 days later also by TNT and they really gave me The runaround telling me it would be delivered on Monday so I waited in all day and it never came. The same thing happened on Tuesday. Lost my rag and said I’d come and collect it myself next day. When I got there they couldn’t put it in the car cos they had to use a forklift and they wouldn’t with a car. Said i needed a ute or a trailer. My son in law collected it next day in his ute and he and my daughter hooked it onto the bench.
Any way, I’ve made a start in the engine. I’ve machine the cylinder top covers and cylinder block, bored the cylinders, drilled and tapped all the holes with the exception of the top and bottom cylinder cover fixing holes which need the rotary table to complete. I’ve turned the H.P. piston but the LP piston casting was missing from the Stuart kit and they’d put a HP top cylinder cover in by mistake so that’s on its way fro Stuart’s.
I had an epiphany the other day. My lathe I’d assumed was imperial but the wheels were marked up as having 1 thou graduations and 0.025mm graduations. I dawned on me that the two couldn’t possibly be the same. I checked with my DRO kit and found one revolution of the wheels was correct in mm but slightly wrong in thousandths”. So it turns out that the lathe is actually metric!!! My assumptions were wrong which goes a long way to explaining inaccuracies I found when machining the Twin Launch Engine. Fortunately I always mark up a piece before I Machine it and didn’t rely on the graduated wheels so I got away with it. I find working in imperial units easier because I can “ picture” a thou in my head but not so with 0.025mm. I found it a nightmare having to calculate every movement in metric finding out how many revolutions and graduations before hand for each movement. Now with DRO I can work directly in imperial or metric with ease swapping between the two systems with ease.
OK, on with the build. The cylinder block. Firstly, forget that the pistons are different diameters. All the measurements must come from the longitudinal cener of the center mounting lug. Mark that on the lug. Clean up the top and bottom of the casting then remove metal from the top and bottom faces and bring to size keeping the steam ports central. Next find the center of the base and scribe the longitudinal line. From this line it’s easy to find the lateral centres of the 5 lugs. Drill them to size. Return the mill to the center of the base laterally and longitudinally. The center of the cylinder bores are equidistant each side of this center. With a piece of sacrificial material under the block to protect the vice, bore the cylinder bores to size. The length of the block isn’t critical, in fact the H.P. port face is a tiny bit closer to the marked centre of the base than the LP port face is. The eccentrics have plenty of space on the crankshaft each end and are only secured on the crankshaft on final assembly. That’s where I am on the block.
Next I moved on to the bronze base. I cleaned up the base first then, without moving it from the vice, I found the longitudinal centreline and scribed it. I found the center of this line and measuring from this point I milled the base to length (3”). Back to the center and milled the bearing faces to size. Then I drilled the column holes in the 5 lugs. That’s as far as I’ve got. Tomorrow I will tidy up and enlarge around the crank web spaces in way of the bearings. ( on the Twin Launch Engine on assembly the big ends on the conrods fouled the base in this area and I had to enlarge the spaces). The plans don’t show any dimensions here but intimate the same width as the column centres which don’t work out!
Next job is to flip the piece in the vice and using a ball end cutter cut the crankshaft location. Then drill and tap for the bearing cap studs.
Sorry it’s such a long post but I’ve been too knackered each evening to post but tonight Mary’s been doing her weekly quiz night with family in Oz and UK on t’interweb so I couldn’t have the TV on.
Here’s some pics.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/15/30E9934E-63C8-4534-B59D-2468FBF76C93.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/arCrK)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/15/4537EE3C-9E06-4221-80E3-ADE4D69B3B4C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/arwuw)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/15/C837A7C7-8CA4-4061-BD55-AEEF4AA61EBD.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/arYyo)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/15/5AEB262B-F783-426F-80A3-06C30A47A2D9.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/arAsL)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/15/5D242CE7-C9B8-44CF-9815-1D702613F0B9.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/argap)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/15/10A774C3-B2CF-4958-89E2-4D4BA3FC276D.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/armh9)
As you can see in the pics I made a horlicks of the holes in the 5 lugs. They were in the wrong place hence the long post explaining how I should have done them. I’ve milled a hole one size larger on the undersidea quarter the way through and will form a shoulders on the tops of the columns below the threads to locate the lugs correctly and will fill the voids with Devcon Steal or JBWeld if I can find some. The nuts will cover the mistake.
The cockup on the top face by the H.P. cylinder was caused by the center drill slipping in the collet and the collet rubbed the face I was unsighted at the time and thought the noise it made was the drill hitting some chilled part of the casting of which there is quite a lot. It will be disappeared on the finished model !!
On another note NSW has gone into lockdown due to a covid case in ACT Canberra. I’m not allowed to leave the shed to go to the shops as I’m not the designated shopper. Heaven!
Jerry C.
-
Hi Jerry - I'm glad your back on it and I'm looking forward to watching this one mate :-))
Its great that you've got a good mill as I just couldn't do without mine now. I think I use it more that any of my other machines.
If you haven't got one get you hands on a fly cutter. They are not expensive and remove material over a large area very quickly. You could also use it for facing off the mating surfaces on your engine.
Good luck going forward - Mark
-
Cheers Matey. I bought a boxed set of three fly cutters, small medium and large. I’ve just got to grind the cutting tools to the correct angles as they’re not quite right. That’s my first job today. Waiting for it to warm up cos it’s freezing this morning. The sun shines into the shed doors and warms it up pretty quickly.
Jerry C.
-
Here you go Mark.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/17/ED32B0B8-4DAC-4E12-9734-C3AAFB4109FC.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/arbhV)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/17/879662D6-3BE5-4924-9121-DB61AAF6A7AF.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ar5se)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/17/919F55FF-6D5D-4AC8-8B32-C16285D6D0D1.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/arQfX)
Back to the build.
Rough as a badgers 'bottom'.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/17/919F55FF-6D5D-4AC8-8B32-C16285D6D0D1.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/arQfX)
To a thing of beauty.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/17/6AF4B5EC-4ADA-428C-9FD0-3DD95F6E10C6.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/arpjT)
I don’t quite get those sloping surfaces on each end of the casting in way of the bearings. If the finished piece is meant to be 3” long then they have to go??? I suppose you could leave them but then the bearings wouldn’t be flush with the ends of the casting. It wouldn’t look right to me.
Anyway, my method. I put the piece upside down in the mill vice and skimmed the bottom. Then I flipped it and put it in the vice on parallels and trimmed the lugs to thickness. Once I’d done that I milled the top to the correct height.
I cleaned up the sides with a file and rounded the corners.
Then I blued the top, found the centre and centre punched it.
Using a probe I made a centre finding tool matching the point of the punch, put it in a collet and centred the mill over the piece. Shipped a small centre drill in the collet and walked the mill around using the DRO and centre drilled for 15 holes then repeated the route and drilled and tapped 11 holes and clearance drilled the lugs.
Next I returned the mill to the centre and shipped a 7mm (couldn’t get an imperial version here) ball end mill and made several passes to a depth of 3.5mm cutting the crankshaft bottom bearing halves.
Last milling operation was to bring the bearing faces to correct dimensions and trim the crank web voids? as per drawings.
Removed any marking out and tool marks with 240, 400 and 600 grade wet and dry paper on a sheet of plate glass.
Tomorrow I’ll sort out the bearing caps. I’ve already appraised them and they’re already ground a bit short by Stuart’s but that won’t be a problem.
Jerry C.
-
I’ve moved on to the bearing caps. I secured them one at a time, base up and milled the base clean. Found the centre, popped it then centre drilled it followed by a 1/16” drill right through for oil holes but also a good reference point for future setting ups. I used DRO to find stud centres and drilled 5BA clearance holes. Repositioned in vice and milled bearing faces to size. I shipped the shaft of a broken 1/16” drill bit in the drill chuck [size=78%]and used it to centre the piece back in the vice base up with enough clearance to run the 7mm ball endmill through to a depth of 3.5mm. [/size]
Flipped the piece and spot faced for the 5BA nuts at the same time setting the height of the faces.
Finally using 2 5BA bolts and nuts I bolted 2 caps together on the shaft of a 7mm drill bit. Removed the drill bit and shipped piece in the 4 jaw chuck on the lathe and turned the faces down to the 5/8” diameter. That was the plan but things didn’t go smoothly I’m afraid. I was just finishing the first face when the piece grabbed the tool and broke the carbide tip off the tool. The piece suffered some damage too but was recovered though the diameter ended up a little less than 5/8 but this will still function OK on completion. The visible damage of a scuff is fortunately on the conrod side so will be hidden. If I get picky I’ve 3 spare top cap castings left over from the Twin Launch build when I thought I’d horlicksed the bearings on that one but did manage to work around it. When I assembled the Twin Launch Engine I found the conrods fouled on the sides of the recesses and I had to remove more material to clear the conrods so on this soleplate I extended them the same amount.
Finally I bolted the bearing caps onto the soleplate on a 7mm drill bit to line them up then shipped the piece in the vice vertically end down on a parallel to keep the piece off the base of the vice. I put the the drill bit in a collet and ran it down through the bearings without it revolving, it slipped through nicely. Eased the vice a fraction then retightened it to relieve any stress. Replaced the drill with a 5/16” reamer with the cutter up close to the collet to resist any wander and with low RPM gently lowered it through the first two bearings then stopped the motor,loosened the collet and lifted the milling head up and retightened the collet before continuing down through the third bearing. It couldn’t have gone any smoother!
Dead chuffed. Tomorrow I have to sort out my rotating table backplate. It needs a register turning and an adapter made up to take my chucks.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/20/A9985E24-309A-408E-8D24-BD924993B1FE.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aDt2l)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/20/DBCCAF47-32BD-4E18-A0F6-78F4DD092B82.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aDalZ)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/20/image.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aD1Un)
I forgot, I finally drilled and tapped the holes in the caps 4BA to take the oil cups.
So that’s it, all ready for painting but I’ll wait until I’ve cut the lagging sheets and the weather warms up a bit.
Jerry C.
-
Good to see that someone knows how to use clamps properly :-)) An acknowledged "Exspurt" on another forum still doesn't, after ten years.
Regards Ian.
-
Thanks matey. Just an understanding of loads and simple levers.
Jerry C.
-
Very nice indeed Jerry - I think you have tamed that mill already. I would ask the mods to start you a new thread though mate as its a new build. Just a thought :-))
-
Cheers Mark. I didn’t bother starting a new thread as it’s pretty much the same work as for the Twin Launch but I’ve new tools and the mill is really good and offers up different methods.
Today I’ve been sorting out my new 3” rotary table. It fits on the table with two T nuts and a couple of 6mm hex cap screws and a couple of washers. First job was to machine a register to match my chucks on the supplied backplate. I looked up the bolt circle dimensions in my chuck data sheets and drilled them 6mm clearance. The bcd already on the backplate were different but I found space to fit mine in. I made some short 6mm studs to crew into the chucks and these locate in the drilled holes so the rotary table can drive the chucks. There is a problem though. I can bolt the back plate to the chuck and I can bolt the backplate to the rotary table but, I can’t do both. The backplate locates in the table centre with a large peg on the bottom. It has a 14mm x 1.0mm pitch thread on the top peg which I’m supposed to screw the chucks on to but all three chucks have different size holes in the bottoms so I’ll have to make some adapters. I don’t be 14 x1.0 tap and neither do I have taps to to tap the centres of the chucks. We’re in lockdown atm so can’t go and get any so I’m thinking superglue. I wind be doing any heavy work on the rotary table, ta mostly drilling the holes for the 4BA studs for top and bottom cylinder covers.
I managed to break the data socket on my X axis DRO transmitter. These are more or less the same as digital callipers so I stripped it down carefully and found the micro USB socket that sends the signal to the display was torn off the circuit board. It has 6 tiny (microscopic) soldered connections to the board. So with nothing to lose, out with my little USB soldering iron which I bought two of from Bunnings (like our B&Q), cleaned everything with a Q tip and acetone. Nothing melted. Re soldered all the connections back to the CB and wicked superglue under the socket and.. the display on the transmitter has some sections missing but blow me, the display works perfik.
George (ooyah2) once said, if I fell in the Spey I’d come out with a salmon in my pocket. Jammy or what!!
Anyway, some pics.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/21/950C3F8F-996A-4281-B7D2-982CA126429F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aD60o)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/21/A7070F9D-5818-408F-B944-9414165CC26D.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aDL5w)
Jerry C.
-
I got a lot done today. Started off turning the LP piston on a mandrel in the lathe. I made it as per plan but can’t see the point of the recess in the base as there is no mirror image on the top of the bottom cylinder covers. Included it anyway for the practice.
Next I drilled the bolt circles in the top cylinder covers 7BA clearance. Only Stuart’s would think of dividing 360° by 7 ffs. Using the LP top cover as a guide, I centre popped the common hole, drilled and tapped it 7BA. Screwed in a 3/8” stud and secured the cover with a nut. I’ll pick up the holes with the mill tomorrow and drill and tap the remaining holes. I’ll repeat the process with the H.P. cover.
More pics.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/22/B45858D1-E0D8-4591-9354-96A15044CFEF.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aDWdf)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/22/AA79CC4C-C78C-4560-A901-CBB6A7D2700D.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aDnTv)
Jerry C.
-
This week I have been finishing off the cylinder block. All 163? ( I lose count every time I try to count them),drilled and tapped and studs installed.
Next I moved on to the valve chests. While studying and drawing up my plans I noticed another error on the drawings. The H.P. valve chest is shown as being 1 1/8” in width but the width of the chest is 1 1/4” wide. Fortunately I twigged. The bock is 1 7/32 wide to permit the lagging sheets to lie butted up flush to the valve chests.
The valve chest stud clearance holes went quickly as a repeat of the 7BA (tapping) holes and just a matter of chasing round the DRO figures. The rod guide domes are smaller diameter and length due to some inclusions in the LP casting. I matched it when doing the H.P. chest.
The covers were a different story however as the corners and edges were severely chilled. I gave up milling after dulling my brand new 12mm end mill. The mill was bouncing around the shop! I wasn’t prepared to wait 3 weeks for replacements from Stuarts so I did them on my belt sander, which blitzed the pair in 20 minutes. All corners square and correct thickness with minor titivating on wet and dry paper to finish. I superglued the covers to the chests and simply drilled through the holes in the chests on the bench with a 2.8mm drill bit in my battery hand drill.
Finally I completed all the PB glands. Ruined the first attempt as I misread the diameter of the bit that squeezes the packing. I confused the chamfer diameter with the gland diameter. Stuarts don’t supply castings for them now having replaced them with extruded oval lengths as shown in the pics. A simple job with the four jaw chuck on the lathe then shifted to mill vice to drill the stud clearance holes. Too cold this afternoon in the shed. Lost feeling in my extremities! Retreated to the warmth of the living room to watch F1 qualifying at Spa.
Some pics.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/29/C98A0D67-6711-45F6-BA81-72AA7EB68568.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/adQVM)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/29/61E32955-98A2-478C-90E2-6393C5F57AEB.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/adEFT)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/29/28B2CAFB-9AD4-4E1E-8270-558C4F07DE6C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ad5nV)
Jerry C.
-
Today I started on the crosshead guide bracket. Again it’s like machining toffee but it went reasonably well with no disasters. However I had to get a bit creative with mounting and holding it.
First job dial in the vice with DTI.
I started with it on parallels in the machine vice on the mill table. Decided on the centre of the middle column hole, zeroed X and Y axis and used a 6mm end mill to drill the hole. My columns will be 6mm diameter as I can’t get any 1/4” stock. Then walked the piece via DRO and drilled the two outer holes. I put three 6mm shank end mills through the holes to act as “hanging parallels”and, again used my DRO to set the Z axis and milled the crosshead faces and drilled and tapped the four 7BA holes for the countersunk screws to secure the guides to.
When I’d finished I milled the outer ends of the bracket to length.
Put a small drum sander in my Dremel and tidied up the curves on the edges.
Now I needed to drill and ream the 3/16” bores for the reversing shaft. Here’s where I had to think outside the box. As previously mentioned, the piece is like toffee,so, how to mount it vertically in the vice and drill and ream the 3/16” bores without it distorting.
I turned the vice on it’s side and secured it to the table. I put the piece in the vice, with the guide faces on parallels. Then I used a G clamp to support the boss towards the parallels. I drilled through the top boss with a one size under 3/16” drill and carried on through to the other boss. I got most of the way through with the chuck jaws on the very end of the drill shank. It broke partially through. I only have a 3/16” hand reamer but no way could I get this to go through,so, needs must I drilled through with the 3/16” drill bit. It was still hard going to get the reamer through but finally succeeded. The PB seems to slither back into the holes. Anyway it’s done.
Tomorrow I’ll make a 3/16 threaded mandrel and turn down the ends of the bosses on the lathe with a live centre supporting the end of the mandrel.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/30/25CDFE0C-0D5B-4070-8E1A-F8F0C8E2F73D.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/adDp3)
As you can see below, the bottom boss is supported on the table just outside the T slot but the top boss sagged as soon as the centre drill touched it. I put the G clamp around the back of the parallels to support the boss during drilling and reaming.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/30/D45E2C99-3F46-4715-8079-26361F817E1E.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/adrYS)
Will finish tidying insides tomorrow and drill and tap for 7BA grub screws tomorrow.
Jerry C.
-
I finished most of the bracket but, I couldn’t see any way of cleaning and machining the final job on the rough bosses. The guy I’m following didn’t mention how he did his.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/08/31/A3CB6F7C-E7A6-43D0-BCC4-6AB7B87D0B0B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ao8WG)
This is the best I could come up with. I needed a 3/16” rod for the reversing shafts so I made one as a mandrel which I fixed in the machine vice located in the horizontal v groove on the movable jaw. I pushed the shank of a broken 6mm end mill through the hole furthest away from the milling operation to use as a lever and rotated the piece manually, cutting 5 thou of each time. On completion of one end, flipped the part and repeated on the other boss. Cleaned up after with a file. I’ve purposely made the piece thicker than on the plan because Stuart’s way don’t look right to me. The 4x 7BA tapped hole are however in the correct position in relation to the top surface of the piece. Amazingly I still have a full inventory of digits, no hitches, was easier than I thought.
I’ve made a start on the eccentrics. More about them on completion.
Jerry C.
-
I’ve been busy. I’ve completed the eccentrics, rods/straps, connecting rods and am almost finishing the crossheads.
First the eccentrics,
one problem with these is the grub screws, if you adhere to the dimensions on the drawings you end up with not enough meat on the collars so that there’s not enough threads in the grub screw holes, so when you apply enough force to secure the pieces to the crankshaft to hold them they strip the threads. On the Twin Launch Engine I stripped the threads on both eccentric pairs. The get around was to thread for 3mm and replace the Stuart 7BA grub screws with 3mm hex screws. Even these weren’t really up to the job so I fell back on industrial grade cyo.
With this in mind I realised that it’s feasible to make the collars oversized and machine the eccentrics as normal but leaving a small, and when assembled, unnoticeable step back up to the collar. I ordered a load of nuts, bolts and hex grub screws from Blackgates 5 weeks ago but they’ve not yet arrived. I chased them up two weeks ago but have received no reply. I’m assuming they’re on their holibobs. When I made the eccentrics I got carried away and completely forgot to execute my plan and ended up with a small flat on the collars. I’ll live with it I suppose.
The rods /straps. Completed without incident using similar procedure to thThe conrods.
I didn’t need to calculate the taper value as they’re in my notes from the twin build and I didn’t make the same mistake I made and recovered from with the twin build and they progressed well. The Crossheads.
In progress, will finish tomorrow.
[/size]
[/size]Ive marked with blue marker the area spoiled. On the Twin Engine I removed it. I’ve left it on this build. [/size](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/13/D113CA14-63D4-44D3-B92B-49732248CBAE.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aV2ol)
[/size]
[/size]
[/size]First I drilled and tapped for the bolts. I put threads in the straps so the nuts will act as locknuts. Then I set up in the mill vice for cutting the straps off. Then cut all four and put witness marks on the parts to keep like with like
[/size](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/13/33A92DA3-C5D5-4B4B-A465-E31A936CC8EA.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aVBIn)
[/size]
[/size]I bolted them all back together again, put them in my four jaw chuck on the lathe and bored them to 3/4” and added the location groove using the HSS tool I made for the twin. [/size]I made a mandrel out of a scrap end of brass round bar and mounted each assembly on the rotary table to finish the final shaping. Previously I’d come up with a method of securing my 3 jaw chuck to the rotary table. I removed the jaws and bored out the centre halfway down leaving a step. Then I drilled and tapped an M6 thread in the centre spigot on the table, made a heavy duty washer to sit on the step and used an M6 cap screw to hold it down. The 3 M6 studs in the chuck screw in further and transmit the torque of the rotary table to the chuck. It works.
[/size](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/10/CF2B9656-B2E8-44A6-8298-62CD002BB67E.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aq0xL)
[/size]
[/size]Running in on the lathe using a Brasso/oil mix. Tightening the bolts little by little which corrects any distortion of the PB pieces. Takes about an hour to do each one.
[/size]
[/size]Now the connecting rods. Similar treatment of bottom ends then set up on mill to drill and ream big ends.
[/size]
[/size](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/13/3D7D5DD9-E21F-4FF4-8000-8EDF247D0053.jpg)
[/size]
[/size]
[/size]I used a 5/16” mandrel in a collet to support the piece in central vertical groove in the centre groove in the moveable vice jaw then rigged up support for the top end with an adjustable parallel to support vertically and a fixing clamp to back up horizontally.
[/size](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/13/90B68540-79CD-4355-A623-00330BE6A626.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aVycp)
[/size]
[/size]and milled the top end with a 5mm slot cutter.
[/size](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/13/C260B881-8A9A-4399-A95C-294A2F6CF8EC.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aVtOo)
[/size]
[/size]
[/size]The finished articles[/size]
[/size](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/13/784DE851-F83B-4B83-BFA3-2D13BEAB5041.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aVPJL)
[/size]
[/size]
[/size]That’s all for now.
[/size]
[/size]Jerry C.
[/size]
-
I’ve absolutely now idea what all the additional gobbledygook is in the text. Can anyone fix it?
Jerry C.
-
There’s got to be an easier way!
Jerry C.
-
The last two days I’ve been working on the crankshaft. It’s a rough casting with a squareish lug on each end. The two faces adjacent to the shaft are at right angles to each other and it’s relatively easy to mark the shaft centre axis on each lug. From this mark I drew two lines at right angles corresponding to the two journals and scribed a radius equal to the throw of the cranks with a pair of marking dividers, then, centre popped all six centres. I mounted the piece in my mill vice vertically and drilled all three centres on each end with my largest centre drill. Making substantial tapered holes. The holes corresponding with the crank / journals blew through the lugs and I tapped these holes on one end M6 and screwed an M6 capscrew in one to act as a lathe dog. I put the centre drill in the lathe chuck and used the centre drill as a dead centre ( it rotates with the piece) and a live centre on the tails stock.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/19/E105E357-12E8-49A1-B968-4B14F5A9D958.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/aktpD)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/19/C41702CB-4B14-49F1-9C2D-97651C8255EE.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/akfwM)
I didn’t Machine the shafts and centre journal in order to maintain rigidity while machining the crank webs themselves as [size=78%]much as possible in this arrangement but leaving the centre bearing surface and shafts until later. [/size]
[size=78%]I rearranged the piece and put one journal’s centres on the lathe and finished one crank. Then rearranged again and machined the remaining crank before finally machining the shaft and centre bearing journal. [/size]
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/19/3CC1A2F1-5146-4CD5-8F1E-4ECE3F1EEF42.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/akJVV)
That was the lathe work done with so I put the piece on the mill vice and machined the crank webs to size.
[size=78%](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/19/CC17B322-1B95-4526-8C44-C930E82746CF.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/akazT)[/size]
I’ve left the lugs on until I can check everything ok when mounted on the bed plate in case more turning required
[size=78%]I’ve been running in the cranks with the conrods loosely attached tightening up as I go. Oil and Brasso as running in medium. Another hour running in tomorrow then I’ll mount it in the bedplate and run in the three bearings. [/size]
Jerry C.
-
That’s the bottom end completed. This morning I ran in the crankshaft to the bearings. All three sip oil and equally. Oil cups tomorrow then I start Stephenson’s linkage.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/20/D9C0F718-789D-467D-9A05-723DAA6013C7.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/akY3v)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/20/F4EAF39D-2F46-4585-8BB8-F5E2B272BDC1.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/akCr5)
Jerry C.
-
Fair flying Jerry O0
I have gone back to your August 20th images & the 6 x bottom ends bearing holes appear as tapped holes for studs
You tapped 11 x tapping's, so implies this :embarrassed:
So you must have a close shell tube spanner, small body open-ender?, or are they bolts & tighten the bottom end - otherside?
Derek
PS....how do you find the new Taig Mill?
-
Hi Derek, I have a set of cheap lazer cut combination spanner’s in BA sizes I get from Blackgates Engineering in Yorkshire. $12 a set. I grind the ring part to reduce their diameter and they’re perfect for the job. I’ve got two new sets lost in the post atm, plus a load of various 1 size under BA nuts and bolts. Their website is tedious but they’ve got loads of stuff. They specialise in narrow gauge locomotives and anything steam. So far I’m 45 days ahead of the last build which I put down to my new milling machine and loads of decent tools and fixings. I was schooner rugged for the first Stuart. I won’t build another Stuart, overpriced and poor quality control. Next one will be P M Research excellent quality, better drawings and a tenth of the price!
Thanks for watching.
Jerry C
-
Sorry Derek, I missed one of your questions. 5BA studs in the Soleplate and nuts for the caps. I don’t have a Taig Mill, it’s a Sieg SX2P with a large table. It’s brilliant. I got it from Ausee Tools in Melbourne. They’ve got everything at a little over Chinese prices.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/21/83B0FFC0-2DA4-4C5B-A88B-AF06704A3A9B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/akgfh)
This morning I knocked up three oil cups for the main bearings.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/21/F0E7D388-9910-4662-A427-6034E19A06FB.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/akmiB)
Then I started on Stephensons gear beginning with a pair of connecting rods. Using a piece of 3/8”x 5/16” mild steel I mounted it in the mill vice, using DRO drilled the holes for the 3/16” reversing shaft and the 7BA clearance holes. Then milled one side to remove the bulk of the unwanted metal. Tomorrow I’ll flip them an do the other side. I dug out the mandrel I made for the Twin Launch only this time I’ve got a rotary table. I leave the R/T mounted to the left end of my mill table and my precision vice on the other end which saves time swapping over.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/21/2D446697-70B2-4ACC-8318-168A64550CDB.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/akFje)
Jerry C.
-
The previous photo showed two mandrels on the top of the vice. I forgot to take a photo of them in use but basically I bolt one in a hole and mount it in the rotary table chuck and put a broken drill through another hole to be driven by the table while I mill the bosses.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/22/30BEDCF4-D601-43AB-B4D6-C9EB708F1539.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ak4DM)
Using different sized broken drills to set the angles to get the tapered cut on the sides.
I use broken things like drills and endmills in place of gauge pins. Anything to get the job under control.
Jerry C.
-
:-))
-
I manage one pair of drag links made out of the square but of a door lock that the knobs are fixed to. It was rock hard and was hard work. I can’t go out to get more because it means crossing the boarder back into ACT. It’s not with exposing myself to Covid and there’s plenty I can be getting on with until lockdown ends.
So, next, the Crosshead Guide plates. I was given a large sheet of 1/16” thick stainless steel plate but can’t find it. It must have got lost in the house move. What to do? I found an old toolbox under the house and the padlock latch looked about right, measured it and it was just a fraction over 1/16” thick but galvanised and I could get the 2 pieces out of it. I drilled out the rivets, ground off one end of the hinge pin and salvaged the flap. Used a hacksaw to cut the unwanted bits off and got the ends square on the belt sander. I removed the galvanising on a sheet of wet & dry paper. I gripped the stock in the mill vice on parallels. Using DRO I drilled the four 7BA clearance holes in the ends then chain drilled the slot undersized then ran a 2.5mm end mill through the holes followed by a 5mm end mill. (When I machined the crossheads with this in mind as it saved buying a 3/16” end mill). I didn’t square off the ends of the slot because the crosshead bit that slides in the slot is round. I think it looks neater.
I repeated the process on the other side of the plate then sawed the pieces apart then, back in the vice together and milled the final edges to size.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/26/D630634E-E271-4936-B6C1-2D78AB1421D7.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f2LEf)
The observant amongst you will see I got 4 countersinks on one side, just like I did on the Launch Engine. I knew before not to but things were going so well and the material was lovely to work that I forgot. It’s not a problem though because when to do them on the right side the plates are located by the c/s and not the clearance hole.
[size=78%](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/26/3D185F75-8C32-4F55-9A79-86CE55EB5187.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f269v)[/size]
Everything lines up with the reversing bracket and the bottom cylinder covers so a result.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/26/3FF3A381-6D30-41F4-9D4F-CEBC149F78AB.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f2Mt4)
Next job, piston and valve rods.
Jerry C.
-
Yaaaay!! My parcel arrived from Blackgates!!!! Ordered 30th July, sent 17th August arrived today 28th September.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/28/1FA455DF-8AA7-4227-B947-3F25797A614D.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f2YgG)
Anyone not familiar with Blackgates catalog these are the Laser cut, stainless steel BA spanners. Cheap as chips and they work fine.
I boxed off the valves today. I haven’t followed the plans on these. They don’t allow the valves to float and get pressed onto the port faces by the steam.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/28/7E2D9361-D971-4542-9114-E784AB536F66.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f2SXR)
Also I haven’t got a 1/8” end mill so I’ve gone metric.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/09/28/92CD5D82-319D-4746-9F6E-2ACFF547C2C5.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f2CB1)
Jerry C.
-
Evening Jerry...........certainly not familiar with the Blackgates offerings, but obviously laser-cut from a common thickness plate %) , so are the smaller sized too thick?...or the larger sizes too thin?
As we know, the Knupfer laser-cut metric sized O/E spanners are certainly not Cheap as Chips >>:-(
In OZ, we were taught the lower set of images as 'Crows Foot' spanners [but always thought the jaws were set @ 15 degrees offset, or 75 degrees off to the spanner shank axis?] :o
Is that a universal name?
Derek
-
Common thickness yes but all get the job done and you can bend the grip to whatever suits. Let’s face it, not much torque needed for BA.
As for crows foot spanner’s, I’m familiar with the name but associate with these?
(https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/blob:https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/a70bf140-7404-4808-a5ba-d3674de6ca96)
-
I knocked off a pair of valve rods and adjuster thingamagigs, made four gaskets and boxed off the valve chests. We start 14 days quarantine today due to both daughter and son in law being exposed to active covid cases. Makes no difference to me as I seem to live in the shed anyway. I’ve got music, a couple of chaired on wheels and a toilet. I just need a hammock.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/01/A9622AC3-ADC5-41E6-9BB3-8336BF2A61FC.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f2mQ2)
Last job today, before dinner, was to mark out the expansion links, well one anyway. I’ll superglue two pieces of steel plate together and make two at once. My new spectacles should be ready in Specsavers tomorrow. I could have done with them today as I had difficulty setting my dividers to 64ths”. Achieved it more by feel than eyes!
Jerry C.
-
I superglued two pieces together and mounted them on a mandrel in the centre hole of my rotary table and bolted a strap across them to hold The securely. I centred the table under the chuck and moved the X axis of the table using DRO and drilled three holes then chain drilled the slot. Then ran a 4mm slot drill to clean out the slot. Then milled all the extremities before freeing the pieces and putting them back on a mandrel through each hole in turn and milling around them.
Today was a good day, everything went as planned and I made no mistakes. My best piece of work so far. I shall refer to it as my quarantine period.
The first pic shows the setup.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/02/CD6DD06A-FF82-4BF9-9194-0D55FEF9DF05.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f2Rgp)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/02/74407995-E0EA-479B-B66D-7944D63F65A6.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f27cL)
Jerry C.
-
I made a string of expansion dies when I built the twin engine. On this build I left the ends of the die slot half round rather than square as in the drawings. I filed the ends round to match. I think it’s an improvement.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/03/DDCAB11B-88AB-4323-B0FC-E7982256950A.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f2EIP)
I started on the steam pipe flanges. There’s not enough meat on the Pb blanks supplied to make the LP exhaust flange out of so I used some 7/8 bras round stock to make it out of. It looks as though there my be some conflict between the flange set screw on final assembly but I’ll manage somehow.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/03/B67412DA-FFB6-46AA-A6CE-E54BF2E7E3B9.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f2QC5)
Jerry C.
-
Hi Jerry,
When you come to fitting the lagging shields fit the exhaust side over the exhaust hole and bore it out and then the bottom screw can be slotted on the head which allows a much better fit than profiling around the exhaust flange.
If there is any leakage you can put a gasket underneath the shield and on the underside of the exhaust flange.
What happened to the mid post thats a bit out of line ?
Nice job so far keep it up.
George.
-
That’s 2 weeks quarantine done and dusted. No hardship as I live in the shed 9-18 daily anyway. I’ve been finishing off the last parts for the engine, the reversing lever and fittings were made when I did two for the Launch Engine. Drain cocks, crosshead guide plates and cladding all done plus a bit of painting, I went with the blue but used Bunnings cheapo paint at $5 a can with etching primer beneath. I broke my last 7BA tap so have been waiting for a new set from a model aircraft store in NSW, only $9 so winner there and came in less than a week! I got the 5/16”o/s copper pipe from an air conditioning suppliers and waiting on the 1/4”. Anyone know how to put 1/4” radius bends in 1/4” pipe. I’ve tried the ice method and the salt method and not been happy with either!
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/19/106A9FCB-23B2-436C-B4F2-2F401B035B90.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ffRmh)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/19/106A9FCB-23B2-436C-B4F2-2F401B035B90.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ffRmh)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/19/7D140F1D-2094-4B0C-B6F4-5BB02840DF2F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ffuOn)
Yes, I know, countersinks in wrong sides. I was even aware beforehand but still did it wrong! Not a problem though as there’s enough meat in the plates to support the screws.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/19/FD9E5CDC-0D25-4F57-BADC-373522F52683.jpg)
[size=78%] (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/19/5CDB1C5E-3BAA-44B0-A58F-2318C3231A9D.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ff042)[/size]
I’d decided where possible to replace the 7BA grub screws supplied with 2.5mm socket head ones so I’ve been waiting on a tap for those which arrived just now, postie road down the drive straight into the shed and delivered. Turns out he’s a steam freak too and ahead of schedule so we had a natter.
I wasn’t happy with one conrod small end so made another out of what I thought was brass round bar but it’s some sort of alloy and machines similar to P/B but a slightly different colour.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/19/E0264EA5-D38B-4314-9918-ADBBC6CA4BE7.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ffYgo)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/19/D5C3C318-5FB0-4BAE-B774-132970259161.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ffTIL)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/19/DB37778E-AF26-4E4F-BC11-625E1CDFE3E5.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ffwow)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/19/1459C5CC-30D5-4920-ACEC-0272599588AA.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/19/8F35C451-0EEE-4F64-A15C-F18E1F4D79DF.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ffeNP)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/19/A8E46868-C165-419C-AE80-7DC01D6B1082.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ffmQ9)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/19/C9CA5A8E-C7F0-4A95-9A86-557CF9275D7F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ffl4v)
Also while waiting for stuff I decided to build a condenser. My son in law found this, it’s a mixer control for a shower, made of P/B. I removed the buttons and bored out the inside as much as possible. I made a 20 turn copper coil mounted on a brass end plate with 1/4” ME fittings. I soldered this assembly on the open end and also a bottom plate to cover the button holes. Then made up the exhaust pipe and flanges. A bit of paint and that’s done. Plan is to take cold water from a tank with a pump through the coil then on to feed the boiler wit hot water via a bypass valve and back to the tank. Another larger bore pump will evacuate the condenser and also return to the storage tank. The entrained oil will float on the top. I’m picturing in my head a pair of pumps in a boxer formation on the eve of the crankshaft driven by a scotch crank.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/19/46574F81-9018-493D-A577-6435BEE4D1AB.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ff7c4)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/19/78311F13-3AD5-4072-B965-C0AFC5EFDAB3.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ffsqB)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/19/8BF1B944-A123-4E56-870D-EAA373938419.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ffEIe)
Back to work.
Jerry C.
-
Today I installed an LED light ring around the spindle on my mill. So much better then two desk lamps cluttering up the bench.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/19/D3EAB6CB-62CB-4CFB-AA72-498033F0E73A.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ffbQV)
I’ve almost finished the Compound engine. I’ve sold the Twin Launch Engine for the asking price and am meeting up with the buyer half way tomorrow to deliver.
I’m going to take my big boiler out of the steam launch and mount the compound on a wood table as a working steam plant. Need more copper pipe methinks.
Jerry C.
-
Tight radius bends always a problem. Suggest filling with "Cerrobend" low melting point Bismuth alloy. Still needs idealy a bend former with a wiper die. Alternate, electro form.
Regards Ian.
-
Thanks Ian. 3/4” radius is the best my pipe bender can manage. Never had any luck with springs either. I’ll see what it looks like with 3/4” radius. It maybe ok.
Jerry C.
-
Yesterday was a good day, I sold my Twin Launch Engine for a very good price. Sold to a guy from Sydney, I love it when a plan comes together. It was on Market Place for yonks but I held my nerve (didn’t really need to sell). He wants the compound too but I won’t finish that until we return to Oz in November 22. Also our flights home to UK booked for mid November. Canberra Sydney Singers and Manchester. We’ll have been here I’ve 18 months longer than planned. The only downside is we’ll have two winters on the trot.
Today I made up the HP exhaust pipe. The 1/4” o/s pipe arrived early today. I’d bought a pipe bender last week which does 3/16” 1/4” and 5/16 but not at the specified radius or even close. When doing the second steam launch I made my own bender for the small stuff but went for fittings instead. I made a pair of wheels on the lathe to give 1/2” radius and gave it a go. No success first time , bends we’re fine but dimensions cocked up as the piece moved. Solution superglue one wheel neared the stop. Second attempt successful. A few marks but that’s ok because it wil be lagged anyway.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/21/75D5230A-5517-4380-B488-F3E0EDFDC928.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ffrNT)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/21/58FCF03C-B533-4917-81D4-B85FCDB0054C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ffDvM)
Jerry C.
-
Jerry, whilst the Drawing may nominate 1/4" OD with a 1/4" radius, I suggest it is an improbability as a bend ratio for tube
In an earlier life I spent 10 years in shoreside marine hydraulic work [BHP Fleet Operations in Kembla]....100's & 100's of meters of replacement stainless steel deck hatch work hydraulic tubing...cold formed bends in 1/4" to 1 1/4" OD tube .....[or 6 to 30mm for European builds]
The Australian Standard for this work ratio of bend was r = 3 x diameter.....[this was just one of the engineering criteria as a delimiting allowance for thinning of the external surfaces of the bend
[Other delimiting criteria were.....the UTS of the tube material, relief valve setting and WP of the of the hydraulic system, salinity of sea-water, temperature, Chlorine levels, velocity of contained fluid, corrosion allowance, cleanliness of internal fluid, type of fluid & ?>?>><><?>?< {-) ]
So one possibility in your engine Drawings is that the original then scaled down engine stream pipe may have been a sand-cast bronze ....then machined at each end to cleanup
The engine looks superb ...I was hesitant of Blue, but the result :-))
[About the only thing I can offer is 1/8" square leather shoe lace ......yes, I have found a circular Superglued splice of the leather makes an excellent endpiece for the string + paste for the lagging - it sits squarely and can be filed, primed & painted to blend in with the lagging surface ]
Derek
-
Yes Derek, EVERY arty farty "Designer" should be made to try to manufacture some of their flights of fancy.
Regards Ian.
-
With the greatest respect Ian, these early-day engineers & designers were pretty smart Blokes :-)) ......so maybe the original Drawing Notes were not transcribed to the scaled down dimensioned Drawing ....as "sand-cast bronze"?
Just a guess, but I would give the original designers the benefit of our doubt
Derek
-
I’m pretty sure my dad was either an apprentice with Stuart Turners or he did work for them later, probably on carburettors as he was a carburration engineer working for Zenith Solex And Stromberg in fact he designed the Stromberg CD range. It’s secret was his invention. He reckoned Stuart Turner were rubbish.
Jerry C.
-
Another lovely piece of work Jerry, just one thing, tell me the nasty posidrive screws are just a temporary fixing... %)
-
Of course Phil. That’s for clamping in the vice. Next year I will source some exotic timber for a display base. It’s going to be a fair bit larger than previous. Boiler, condenser, feed water tank and two pumps.
Now getting sorted for our return to UK.
Jerry C.
-
Happy return flights Jerry.......enjoy the return to Narrow Boating in the UK Winter %) ........ Derek
-
Thanks Derek, not looking forward to the flight but can’t wait to get back aboard. First job, clear the spiders webs which have virtually blocked our cctv cameras. I hope it’s lots of little spiders and not one big "xxxxx"! One camera down below knocked out of alignment but hope it’s just a picture frame falling off the bulkhead when the blue tack failed. Over the last few months we’ve watched a young tree growing out of the after button fender. A phone call and the guys in the marina felled it. First job is to engage a safety survey so we can re license the boat then oil, filters and domestic and engine antifreeze. Get a new starter battery for the generator. Check fuel tank for diesel bug and were good to go. Batteries have been looked after by solar and Victron charger and monitor which we have a camera on. The only downside is it’s winter again but we’ve got central heating a calorifier and a multifuel stove so we won’t be cold. On the canals we’re pretty well isolated from Covid people.
I hope the next time I take my daughter to the Southern Cross Hospital for her PTSD treatment we can meet for lunch in Wollongong. But that will be after next Novemer2022 if we haven’t had a first contact with aliens. Covid should hold them back!
Stay safe matey
Rgds
Jerry C.
-
Wasn't criticising the "old school" Derek, as an apprentice, sixty years ago, was under the wing of three old f**ts in the toolroom - - - Thankfully.
Regards Ian.
-
Ian.....understood......
I was just a few years behind you at a BICC Subsidiary, but in a different Land and at a different College O0 ...
One particular extremely knowledgable & talented Scottish Toolmaker taught me many a trick :-X
Derek
-
I used to live in the next village to BICC Helsby. My friend across the road worked there.
Jerry C.
-
I set the eccentrics to 90°advanced and wicked super glue in from the ends and through the grub screw holes then screwed in the grub screws, then screwed in the grub screws. When all set put the inverted engine in the miii and drilled and tapped M2.5 through the eccentrics and into he crankshaft. Then secured them for good with Allen head grub screws. They ain’t going to slip or unscrew ever unless I say so. [size=78%]I repeated the process with the flywheel. [/size]
I set the valve timing and completed the final assembly of the engine. I powered the engine in the vice with an electric drill for two hours in a head and astern until it loosened up and everything running cool, then, [/size][size=78%]I rigged up a compressed air supply, oiled everything and away she went. As long as the H/P piston is past TDC she’ll start as soon as air applied. [/size]
[/size]
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/26/318D082F-2B75-4A2B-BDDA-BBA1C870A98B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f1ysT)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/26/5A076860-E256-4CC0-B460-DA0986B3553D.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f1PuV)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/26/0C2D5E7E-3869-4C5E-A505-B0C60C685916.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f1N3X)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/26/1373FF62-4DB4-45CB-850F-C4591C24168F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f1tre)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/26/83A4243A-0454-4822-9334-BBF7F80614E9.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f1fAB)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/26/BFBF96C4-DE15-4491-B3A9-305FED36173E.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f1aKh)
That’s the engine finished. Next in the agenda is to design a duplex pump, one side small bore for the feed water pump,the other side large bore for the condenser air pump, both sharing a common stroke and driven via a scotch crank drive. So I’ll be at the drawing board for a few days.
I’ll remove the boiler from my SL Canberra and build a steam plant, but first I need some exotic tropical wood for the base.
Jerry C.
-
Bonjour Jerry,
Amazing job, bravo !
As steam passionate, collector and Stuart lover, if you are worried that your machine is cluttering your shelf, i'm ready to get rid of it ok2
-
I’ve made a start on the pumps. I’m a bit short on materials so I made the scotch crank wobbly bit out of the ends of the crankshaft used to locate the crankshaft when machining. I used the empty bit and one hole. I’m making it up as I go. Fag packet sketch wise.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/28/A9C851E4-0D1A-4EC4-A709-A772F8E2699D.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f1W0G)
The large piston is 3/8” diameter and was made out of a large metric threaded bolt and the small piston is 3/16” diameter and made out of a tent peg. Smaller piston attached to wobbly bit with 2BA threads and large piston is 1/4x 40 ME threads.
The drive peg is 0.3000” diameter 1/4” eccentric giving a 1/2” stroke. Attached to the crankshaft with M2.5 Allen head grub screw threaded into the shaft.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/28/8FC0CDCB-789F-4ECC-AF71-5CB9843CCAE3.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f1h5Z)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/28/2DF2F3AA-D09D-479F-897F-1EDD5CB6C07C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f1n3R)
Tomorrow I’ll make the cylinders.
Jerry C.
-
Today I made the cylinders.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/29/86296E97-5F5E-450C-B034-9BF4663A98A5.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/f19Ao)
Tomorrow I’ll start on the supports and valves.
Jerry C.
-
Yesterday and today I worked on valves and support blocks. I milled the blocks out of 1” diameter brass round bar.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/31/BFD3CF02-493E-47BC-8C76-45C434BB341C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/fP17T)
The sticky out bits are location pegs to fit into the future base. Each block will be bolted to the base with 4, 5BA studs and nuts.
Next move was to drill and tap the blocks to receive the cylinders and valves. The 3/16” bore cylinder is tapped 1/4” x 40 and the 3/8” bore cylinder will be silver soldered into its block as I have no suitable taps. The bore will be fitted with a couple of 0 rings whilst the 3/16” cylinder will have an 0 ring in a gland.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/31/52F514F8-176D-44B6-8717-9BD28DB747E3.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/fPtvV)
I made two halves of the inlet valves, all 1/4”x 40 tpi. I don’t know whether to use Viton balls or s/s ball bearings. Haven’t got either so a trip to a bicycle shop is in the offing. Also ran out of hex bar so will get some tomorrow.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/31/09AF1822-35E5-4D40-8286-81820B7CA3E5.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/fP6V3)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/31/736373F5-4CC2-4AFD-B83D-A806CA1B5FAE.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/fP3FS)
[u(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/31/5CAF6F93-D102-40AE-B3B5-42554DE24D27.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/fPPZM)
rl=https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/fP3FS](https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/10/31/736373F5-4CC2-4AFD-B83D-A806CA1B5FAE.jpg)
That’s all for now.
Jerry C.
-
In my experience, Viton balls allow much better sealing than metal ones.
-
Just sent a PM Jerry......for your assistance please :-)) .......Derek
-------------
Viton balls [used in traditional check valves] are great if the machining seat faces & geometry are absolutely 1st Class.....
If not, the hammering of the pump pulsation [to 1000 cycles/minute] will chew them to pieces in 5 minutes
The pump in bypass & non functional within 30 seconds
-
I went over the border to Fyshwick this morning for some 5/16” brass hex bar, 1/8” steel rod and 4 chromed ball bearings. No hex bar so got round instead. No problem. I got a production line going and finished all the parts for the pumps. I seated the balls in their valve bodies by whacking a couple of times each with a brass rod and hammer. When tested they’re tight as a drum with no leakage and no flow restriction in the delivery side. They’re all having an overnight soak in meths ready for final assembly tomorrow.
After tomorrow, that’s it, for the next year as we fly home to the UK on the 11th November. I’ll brink back to Oz some exotic wood for the display base and some scale dolls house checker plate. We will, all being well, return to Queanbeyan November 1st 2022.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/11/01/267399F3-DC6D-4A45-A0B9-E444A3F5D282.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/fPIMQ)
Jerry C.
-
Viton balls [used in traditional check valves] are great if the machining seat faces & geometry are absolutely 1st Class.....
If not, the hammering of the pump pulsation [to 1000 cycles/minute] will chew them to pieces in 5 minutes
The pump in bypass & non functional within 30 seconds
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Nitrile balls are good for temps up to 100C in Saturated steam and are mainly used in boiler feed pumps with cold water.
Viton balls are good for temps up to 200C in superheated steam and are used for mainly safety valves with the Loco builders
Neither of these balls need absolutely great machining for the valves to seat but do need to be machined on the same setting as the thro' hole and the seating only needs to be 1/16" deep at 60 deg and they don't need to be bashed two or three times with a brass punch and a hammer. to get them to seat.
They are inclined some times to stick when a boiler or plant has been laid up for some time and only need to have some clean water pumped thro' with a syringe
Having used these type of balls in several steam plants over the years and have never experienced any to be non functional in 5mins or 3 secs
Both types of balls are used extensively here in the U.K. with Loco builders and Steam boat enthusiasts.
So I ask Derek where do you get this info ? bearing in mind we are talking about Model engineering. and I would be surprised if any model engines exceed more than 500 r.p.m while in-the water.
George.
-
Bonjour George,
I fully agree with you regarding the reliability of these balls, also using them in several of my water pumps.
Just a detail, my speed steam machines exceed 2 000 RPM with two blades propellers in the water, but I have no pump coupled to ok2
-
Bonjour George,
I fully agree with you regarding the reliability of these balls, also using them in several of my water pumps.
Just a detail, my speed steam machines exceed 2 000 RPM with two blades propellers in the water, but I have no pump coupled to ok2
Bonsoir Raphael,
Thanks for replying, I know that there are models that have very high revs in the water, my own Flashsteam boat had 16.000 on the bench and about 12,000 rpm in the water but along with your type of boat and I think that the straight runners had high revs, the majority of steam boat modellers are not so fast.
Calins models will not be so fast and about 500 rpm Max.
I am intrigued as to where Derek's info comes from.
George.
-
....."I am intrigued as to where Derek's info comes from"
Certainly, so whilst with a lifetime in industrial hydraulic training, professional education with hands on experience in fluids & systems sealing, this includes most recently after retirement, being engaged in defence to review a multi million Euro marine hydraulic reliability/failure warranty claim that is still pending the awarding of costs Judgement in a Court in the Hague - there were no winners here, the fault lay with the vessel builder
However my comments here [collectively] on model check valve and pump ball selections are from a number of 5" gauge engine builders who I consider highly experienced
Having said this, I did not include any reference to use of chrome plated carbon steel balls [nor a 3 second loss of pump pressure]
With respect to model engineering, really no different where some engine builders prefer cast iron piston rings, over Viton or Teflon, or graphited twine ring selections
Derek
-
I’ve found a nice piece of veneered plywood for the display base. I’m starting to plan the layout. The paint has dried on the pumps. I plan to make hardwood boiler supports for the boiler utilising two of the boiler bands to secure it to the base. I’ve taped some drawing paper to the base to mark out the plan for positioning and piping layouts. I want all the pipe work to run parallel and equidistant on carriers and hold downs.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/11/03/97526176-5080-4DBE-A755-3FB21C353C9E.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/fP9yL)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/11/03/649C0C42-FDA8-4E7F-A589-C3EEB99BB730.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/fPSR9)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/11/03/7E531244-5336-449F-85D6-F32467A06FEB.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/fPCHp)
Jerry C.
-
....."I am intrigued as to where Derek's info comes from"
Certainly, so whilst with a lifetime in industrial hydraulic training, professional education with hands on experience in fluids & systems sealing, this includes most recently after retirement, being engaged in defence to review a multi million Euro marine hydraulic reliability/failure warranty claim that is still pending the awarding of costs Judgement in a Court in the Hague - there were no winners here, the fault lay with the vessel builder
However my comments here [collectively] on model check valve and pump ball selections are from a number of 5" gauge engine builders who I consider highly experienced
Having said this, I did not include any reference to use of chrome plated carbon steel balls (nor a 3 second loss of pump pressure]With respect to model engineering, really no different where some engine builders prefer cast iron piston rings, over Viton or Teflon, or graphited twine ring selections
Derek
Well Derek,
I never expected a run down on your professional life nor your professional education again as you did so many years ago on some other discussions.
I would have thought that you would have been quoting from your own experience with rubber balls and not from second hand information passed down by others.
Your quote
(If not, the hammering of the pump pulsation )to 1000 cycles/minute] will chew them to pieces in 5 minutesThe pump in bypass & non functional within 30 seconds )
You are quite correct about no mention to Steel balls but I would have thought that you would know that this is the recommended method of seating steel balls, you having such a distinguished engineering career.
So to conclude, anybody considering using Nitrile or Viton balls for pumps ,check valves and safety valves go ahead and give them a try.
They are easy to machine to take them and as the other 2- members testify are very good for sealing purposes.
Derek don't get fired up, it sounds very much like nobody is supposed to question Derek Warner but go and tell your Loco friends that they are talking thro' a hole in their hat
regarding the Viton balls, better than that tell them to machine the seats properly.
Jerry,
My apologies for jumping on to your thread, your blue paint looks good.
There will be no more interruptions from me
Have a good day
George.
-
Morning Jerry
Plenty of video footage available on the Stuart Twin Launch Engine examples with single piston pump with worm & wheel, more straight cut gear reduction by others, but must admit, I have not found, or watched a video of this specific pump design coupled to an engine, and running
From observation, the close fit pump components geometry would appear to create extreme moments at change of direction?
Will you need to mount the pump base [sides] on a fitted metal base to cope with the pulsation?, or will the veneered Plywood suffice?.....looking forward to watching the pump run
[Would love to get some of those miniature transducer load cells & digital equipment [from my past lifetime :P ] to graph & watch the pulsation output]
Or possibly, one of your viewers may offer a link to such, as I assume the pump design is an original Stuart accessory?
When researching previous youtube links, it was nice to see and read again, words from a few other friendly contributors [Mick G & JPD from MBM and Ramon from MEM]....builds of the same Stuart Twin build
Derek
-
Well it works! Unfortunately I can’t get my drill chuck on the end of the crankshaft to show it running but it turns over smoothly and the pumps pump. I haven’t got use of the compressor at the moment but will post a video when I do. It’s my own design as I’ve never seen one like it and it was easier to make than the usual eccentric and conrods. I’ve not seen a twin pump layout off one eccentric. We’ll see how it goes. I might change the drive peg and add a phosphor bronze roller rather then steel on steel. The four studs go right through the 3/4” thick baseboard and each block has a 1/4” central protrusion to transmit any lateral forces to the board and the studs are 5BA.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2021/11/04/image.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/fPQkS)
Jerry C.
-
Jerry,
How about drilling a small hole Counter Sunk at the top as an oil hole in the Scotch crank, it would save you a lot of trouble as at present you still don't have the pumps bolted down.
I made one some years ago and it's still going strong, as far as I know.
Just a thought.
George.
-
Good one George (spell checker just offered George&marian). They are bolted down but I’ll do it when I remove everything for varnishing.
Jerry C.
-
Jerry,
I found this pic of my Steam Tug D10 engine with the Scotch crank drive.
It's been in for about 4 years without an oil hole, it gets lubrication from oil flying about when running , so far no wear.
If I can remember correctly I case hardened the drive pin.
The balls in the pump are Nitrile 3/16" dia
George
-
That’s nice George. Do you make your own gears and worms ? I’ve never used the thread cutting gears on my lathe except for power feed.
Jerry C.
-
Jerry,
I don't cut my own gears I use a firm in Chesterfield called H.P.C. GEARS as I don't have much call for gears so I buy them.
They are not cheap but I class as the best.
When you get back to the U.K. you can call them on. 01246 269080. or e-mail sales@hpcgears.com and they will send you a Cat, web site is www.hpcgears.com
Here is a pic of my Flashsteam engine which had a 4-start steel worm and and a phos bronze 25T to match the worm,
George.
-
Hi again, I’m back. Returned to Oz first week in November 22. Had to buy new car as we sold our Toyota Yaris after we returned to UK. Bought a Chinese MG3 which was waiting for us when we got back. Next job buy a Kawasaki 300 Ninja. Got rid of all the Hiroshima crap on it and get it back to original. Sold all the extras on marketplace which paid for the new original kit. Ordered a load of materials for the “steam plant”. Went for 3/16 copper pipe so made up a load of 1/4”/5/16” adapters. Bought 25 metres of copper pipe which turned out to be cupronickel brake pipe but it solders OK. Ordered a coaxial indicator set for my milk Nov 21st which still hasn’t arrived, it took 27 days to get out of China ffs. Apparently it in an Oz hub now and the seller knocked 30$ of the price. All materials have arrived so I started building the steam plant last week. I’ve borrowed my reverse flow scotch boiler from second steam launch and spent a few days making up all the plumbing. With a bit of luck I’ll remember how to put pics on here so I’m going to save this in case I lose it while posting pics.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/09/5FE2430C-BD4A-4A0D-826F-7176706532CE.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tf9jf)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/09/65362C69-577A-488D-8B97-6D593B793ADF.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tf0hv)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/09/73C042E3-591E-425A-8C1B-3DFE0EFD0A34.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tfua5)
Phew!
Jerry C.
-
Forgot to add, lookin at PM Research generator kit and some lights and overhead drive to add.
Jerry C.
-
We went home to UK beginning of November 21. Spent the winter in our marina on Angelica. Kept ourselves warm as toast with our Mørso stove. Started our summer cruise in April22. Intended to go north then east to Leeds but the high temperatures and nil rainfall put paid to that idea. Low water levels in the canal system reservoirs resulted in canal closures. We had to reverse our travel on the Leeds Liverpool canal and head south to the midlands and Birmingham. We were ok down there so diss Stratford and circled back to head to marina. Arrive back end of October and laid the boat up for winter and returned to Oz.
Jerry C.
-
Welcome back to the WEB site Jerry............hope the limited river/canal trip was OK & all well with the Family in OZ......
Shall be watching in with your next machinings etc
Derek
-
Hello Jerry, your engine looks very smart in blue!
-
Thanks KN03, never been keen on the traditional Stuart colours. I’m a retired seafarer, RNR retired so fly the Blue Ensign and worked for the Blue Funnel line, so, blue it is. I’ll paint the ends of the boiler to match.
Jerry C.
-
I put water into the feed water tank to check for leaks. The pipe unions were mostly OK, a few needed nipping up, but there was one small leak in the condenser end plate. Removed it and the paint and soldered it. On test I now had two other leaks. Further soldering lead to exponential leaks. The problem was that the body of the condenser was too heat heavy and I was getting nowhere fast. I salvaged the heat exchanger coils but scrapped the rest. I bought two 2” dia. Straight copper pipe joints, soldered these together to make the body of the new condenser, made up new end plates and exhaust flange. A quick water test which was OK. Etch primed and three coats of topcoat and condenser finished. It’s 40°C in the shed so painting is quite a rapid process!
Stripped the boiler down, breaking the sight glass in the process and repainted the ends.
I’ve ordered a PM Research dynamo kit. Will be Fedexed to me shortly. Shipping cost more than the kit but a better deal than a Stuart dynamo.
Now looking around for dolls house stuff for some nice Victorian lamp standards for the dynamo to run.
I’m also going to take the drive from the flywheel up to an overhead transfer rod and back down to the dynamo pulley. Thinking two riveted lattice towers as supports???
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/15/D4B99BDF-DC34-427E-B54D-1BB5E31A33A9.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tN8Hp)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/15/33975CFA-89AF-4A12-AAE7-CE72BD4A5482.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tN2yL)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/15/23382A6F-C3DC-4790-8CF7-8C0F07A62893.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/t1Vpw)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/15/FDC4F67D-DBD7-4487-8FCA-33C6BF3FADEE.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/t1qYo)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/15/BA6CBED7-BC5C-4762-B1CF-BE30F48200F0.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/t1ozK)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/09/5FE2430C-BD4A-4A0D-826F-7176706532CE.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tf9jf)
-
Really neat work Jerry. Most impressed! :-)) :-))
Greg
-
Thanks Greg.
I thought a description of water and steam flow might be helpful.
Starting with steam,
Boiler makes steam which is piped via a control valve to the HP cylinder valve chest, passing the displacement oiler. The HP exhaust travels to the LP cylinder valve chest. The LP exhaust passes to the main body of the condenser where it is cooled by the feed water coil inside. The steam condenses back to water causing a vacuum
In the condenser maintains by the air pump. The condensate is pumped back to the feed water tank.
Next the feed water side.
The feed water pump takes cold water from the feed water tank and pumps it to the condenser coil where it is heated by the exhaust steam. It continues to the economiser coil in the front of the boiler where it is heated further before exiting the economiser and entering the boiler hot via the check valve. There is a superheater coil in the hot end of the boiler but this is not suited to this engine so does nothing.
The only thing that goes up the chimbley is waste heat from the burner.
Any oil carried over floats on top of the feed water and can be removed with a syringe.
Clear???
Jerry C.
-
The dynamo came in 7 days, New York, Hawaii, Sydney and home all via FedEx.
Everything well packed.
I started straight away with the main cast iron body of the machine. Fettled first with belt sander and file.
Mounted the piece upside down on my mill vice and milled the base until flat.
Repositioned the piece with machined base up against the fixed vice jaw and removed equal amounts of metal from each end and brought all down to final dimensions. The cast iron was nice to work with and no sign of any chilling.
Drilled through the boss on top for the lifting eye. All fastenings are tiny UNC threads so I’ve had to order 2 taps and one die locally which cost nearly half the price of the kit.
Next job, bore out the centre of the big casting. A hell of a lot of material to remove. All done on my mill with a boring head. This took over half a working day!
Fettled both aluminium end castings. Used my lathe for these bits. I mounted the commutator in my 4 jaw chuck.
Faced off the mating surface then remove 1/32” leaving a location step. Finally bored out the space for brushes.
Next I found the centre of the casting and centre popped it.
Back to the mill. I left the main body in the mill vice so it was already central on the x and y dro s so with my smallest centre drill in the mill chuck locating the centre of the end cover I superglued the cove to the main body. As PMR plan gives the offset for the securing screw holes so I found them and drilled tapping size holes and the hole for the shaft bush. Finally unglued the end cover and glued both end covers together to transfer drill the final holes. That’s where I’m up to at end of day 2.
Day off tomorrow for a bit of cycling and a thrash on my motorcycle.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/18/45D43DB0-BA46-49B5-A9F3-E25AAC9A96A4.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tNliP)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/18/A7BB246A-8CDF-4319-95E7-B29D603AC26C.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tNjf9)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/18/663AD900-60C6-4AB8-8AC6-C48FD07562A1.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tNxj5)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/18/E3EABF8D-63B5-4E73-AA3E-1A6EC64A666B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tN72v)
Jerry C.
Some pics
-
Nice work Jerry, if you do need any more UNC I have a box full ( I am still BA, ME, BSF & BSP ) and I ignore metric (sorry metric peeps) :-)
-
UNC/UNF aint metric it’s American imperial brought about so their WW2 aircraft had some commonality with Brit aircraft. BA on the other hand is metric but not like the Frogs!!!!
A bit more work today after a ride round the Tharwa race track as quite cool today.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/19/BF6F6E72-BBFC-47DE-97F3-4830DFCE3127.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tN5Dh)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/19/090C488B-1BD4-4885-B8F8-2D092256F20E.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tNsA4)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/19/FAE742BE-F397-4EC4-ADCA-424CD535B9F9.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tNRUf)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/19/7B06D997-44B4-4847-ACA2-81C0E7EA4842.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tNQ6B)
It all goes together nicely and the armature spins freely. UNC taps and die on de way coming.
Another days work and she’s ready for paint.
Jerry C.
-
I painted the whole lot last night and today I made the last part, the drive pulley. It’s barrel shaped to cater for leather belts. PMR give you 1 1/2” of 1/2” dia. aluminium to make it from. The radius used for the barrel shape is 2”. I hadn’t the first idea how to do it so looked on YouTube.
Put stock in lathe chuck with 3/4” sticking out. Face off end. Centre drill and drill through 1/8”.
Change tool to chamfering tool. Move carriage so tip of tool is 1/4” from end of stock and touching. Plonk my gas tank (4” dia.) on lathe bed with a load of weights on top to stop it moving (or find some way to clamp it). Rig up dial gauge so mimicking tool but touching gas tank at max dia. With gauge plunger at right angles to lathe bed and magnetic holder on carriage. Zero the gauge. Move tool to end of stock (dial gauge moves with it so shows a different reading. Start lathe then move y axis until dial reads zero. Pull tool clear and move x axis 10 thou left.
Repeat repeat until x has moved 1/2”.
You now have the barrel made but looks dog rough. The barrel though is at the bottom of the grooves so cover with marker blue then file with part spinning until blue is gone then part off.
A picture may help.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/22/D465FE77-D8BE-498B-954F-C1579D1853F1.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tPeLQ)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/22/EA1B1325-D7C7-4E19-B0B0-DB8D65AA171E.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tPmo3)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/22/30BAE6B6-C09F-43FD-8976-9CAD3C9B3612.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tPggS)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/22/4497E56A-37B7-43C2-8D4E-7DC19788BFE9.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tPjCu)
The first groove was a mistake (the gas tank moved). The second was just to give it company.
Final job is brushes and assembly.
Jerry C.
-
I’ve been working on the the belt/pulley gantry. For materials I’ve used Bunnings (B&Q) aluminium angle bar and flat bar. Cheap as chips. I reduced the size of the angle bar from 14mm to 7mm and the flat bar to 6mm. Both 1.4mm thick. I tried on band saw but the blade wouldn’t track true and no amount of fiddle would make it. So, did it all on the mill. Slow job!
I cut all the required parts and I was two inches short on the angle bar so had to buy another length.
Today I started fabricating. First the two vertical pillars. Made a jig screwed to the bench to hold two lengths of angle (see pic). I made the first 45° brace and used it as a pattern for all the rest. Everything temporarily held together with superglue, until I can drill the river holes. Rivets in the post.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/25/91A56E54-6826-47CF-BC67-E4B2FF890BAC.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tPk49)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/25/D16DF0D8-6C3B-4FBA-8827-E6507518DC17.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tPVOp)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/25/138ED249-602C-4D52-B25D-C91399C3570F.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/ty8JP)
I managed two sides today and half way through the second pair.
Jerry C
-
A quick question re pulleys and leather belts. Dynamo drive pulley is by design, barrel shaped. Google says this makes belt self centring. Does the othe pulley the belt is on need to be barrel shaped also?
Jerry C.
-
Quick answer, yes. 'Crowning' only works on the pulley it's applied to and can't compensate for miss alignment of drive layout.
Regards Ian.
-
Many thanks Ian. I’ll see what happens.
Jerry C.
-
I missed posting this one.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/26/D33C434B-3A89-45A6-8199-7086AB9F6033.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tyXSQ)
Jerry C.
-
Nice one Jerry :-))
-
Rivet counters get loads of stick. I thought 50 would be plenty. There will now be an intermission while I wait for another 50.
Jerry C.
-
I’ve not been idle. Today I’ve made a pair of belt pulley assemblies. The pulleys turn on shafts that are clamped eccentrically in two end caps which locate in side plates on the overhead gantry so facilitating belt tension adjustments. I’ve yet to come up with a method of fixing in position after tensioning but leaning towards a lever locating on a ratchet of some sort. Tomorrow I’ll crown the pulleys.
I bought some cowhide leather straps from a local saddlery. The guy in the store who can reduce them in thickness and width is away until Tuesday. I’m once it’s trimmed I can cut to required lengths, the return them to him for sciveing the ends so I can see them together to form the belts.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/01/29/C770CEEF-F0B7-427C-9FD2-78A16F2FAC72.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/t3wAS)
The final belt adjustment from gantry to dynamo pulley will be achieved by mounting it on sliding rails bolted to baseboard with captive bolts.
Jerry C.
-
Hello Jerry;
I am following your good work with the greatest interest.
Concerning the leather belt, aren't afraid that it get loose through the time and slips with some oil coming around?
Tensioning with the eccentrics is a good idea, but will it be sufficient ?
Very interesting to follow up ! :-))
Regards !
-
Hi, in practice generator is 10V at 2A so 20Watts maximum. A very light load. Only the first belt will get oil near it and there are ways to protect it. Thanks for watching.
Jerry C.
-
The extra rivets arrived earlier than expected so pressed on with the belt gantry. This is as far as I can go with riveting, got 3 left over. From now on it’s nuts and Philips cross head 2x5mm c/s set screws. I blagged 200 of each from Canberra Fixtures for $8.99. Unfortunately no hex headed available. I’ve realised I’m going to cut away below the gantry to permit belt and pulley access. I also need base support and fixing to base board.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/02/04/0435E5BE-ECE2-48A8-AC7E-F7BA6D526671.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/t6X11)
Jerry C.
-
Nice work!
-
Cool :-))
-
My initial plan was to complete the assembly of the gantry with 2mmø c/s screws and nuts with the screws entering from the outside and a nut on the inside end, losing the heads in counter sink. First attempt was a failure as no way could I get the nuts on the inside ends let alone hold them when tightening the screws. So, superglue acre to screwdriver, push screw through hole and put the nut on the outside. This worked fine. The 2mm nuts size is same as 8BA so they look ok. Only problem is they are s/s that’s why I’m using cyo to stick em to the screw driver and not a magnet. If I drop one I get another out of the box unlike when you drop a BA nut and you spend 2 hours searching for it cos Stuart only give you exactly the number required. And Blackgates sell em at a ridiculous price.
I cut out the metal under the pulleys
Anyway, I just need to make top covers for the tower tops then paint the whole gantry and then I’ll make the belts up. I’ll have to take a bit of baseboard away around engine flywheel to aid fitting the drive belt.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/02/09/599D8997-482A-4F1C-9E4A-BDA24074DD4B.jpg) (https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/image/tLSp3)
Jerry C.
-
Manipulating small nuts? Pushing them into a piece of clear plastic tubing helps.
Regards Ian.
-
I made a pair of column caps then moved on to tension handles for the eccentric pulley adjustment.
I glued two aluminium blanks together, blued them up and marked out for the centres for eccentrics and handles.
Milled everything to shape. Drilled and tapped two holes in each pair of eccentrics and tapped them 3-48 so I can use up some of the generator screws.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/02/11/5A9366B9-51A4-4111-A510-7BC2CAB698A4.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/02/11/2890F252-B5AA-4D69-B164-702D7A946F88.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/02/11/A8A184CB-8347-487C-B591-BE5E52FEABE9.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/02/11/1ACD20A9-DF36-40AE-98B4-3121DAF2FDB3.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/02/11/D5B19F83-BE18-457F-879F-75F5AA347309.jpg)
Painted the full gantry and the levers gloss blue.
I’ll turn up some nice brass handles for the levers.
Jerry C.
-
Today I crowned the transfer pulleys. I machined them 2°.
The gantry is now completed. I was going to make two handles for the levers but I’ve been wondering about using ratchets or pins to secure them in position thus holding tension but overnight a little voice said “springs”. I’ll think about it.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/02/12/042DC1A6-E550-4E54-8FB4-288CAFC460A2.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/02/12/E772B1FB-AE43-4B98-A6EC-FED8DFD337E0.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/02/12/A6DBD9B4-7C91-42A1-B11C-B6E790B65DA2.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/02/12/F331EA43-FAEA-41BE-A1C0-F4EA7A182984.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/02/12/F88BA4B8-61CB-4E2E-B45D-A0556D6BC0BA.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/02/12/EA85849C-5110-4E44-88BF-3BC754ED0525.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/02/12/1A49F554-A8C9-41BF-9A02-0342CEE13C1E.jpg)
Jerry C.
-
Pre stretching the belts for 48 hours.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/02/14/8B1462E1-D47D-4797-8570-2DCED07F5EAB.jpg)
I’ve acquired a block of rosin used on violin bows to dress the leather to help grip. Anyone got better ideas??
Jerry C.
-
At the bowls club we use a product called GRIPPO, comes in a tube to put on your hand so the bowl does not zip away on damp days . Just a thought %%
-
Pre stretching the belts for 48 hours.
Hi Jerry,
Just back in circulation, Been in Glasgow Royal Infirmary for nine days due to 2- weeks with Covid -19 and then when my immune system was low I had an attack with another New Virus which left me with Pneumonia Home now and on the mend now but Oxygen still a bit low.
I see by the pic that your dynamo belts look about 1.5" wide, they will not stay on the dynamo pulley even with the pulley being crowned, I say this as during my apprenticeship
In the biggest flour and provender Mill in Scotland there was plenty of milling machines and others that were belt driven and by memory any thing down at 2" and others had to have the pulleys with upstands ( see dynamo on e-bay all driving pulleys and followers had to have upstands on either side as the dynamo on e-bay to keep the belts tracked
204240695076 ) Rosin was also used.
How are you going to join the belt ?
[/color]
George
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/02/14/8B1462E1-D47D-4797-8570-2DCED07F5EAB.jpg)
I’ve acquired a block of rosin used on violin bows to dress the leather to help grip. Anyone got better ideas??
Jerry C.
-
Hi George, long time no hear. Mary got Covid on top of all her other problems. Recovered now and should be back on her bicycle next week.
The belts are 7/16” wide. In the gantry the pulleys are 1” long x 1/2” dia.
Belts will be skived, glued then sewn with waxed flax thread.
Jerry C.
-
Used leather belts on some of the textile machinery we made. Oldest types were laced together. Yorkshire mill owners, being FRUGAL, had some drive belts with 'multiple' sections laced together. Later versions were joined with a multi tongued metal strip which gave a rhythmic click going over the pulleys. Last ones we supplied had a flat nylon core with chrome leather facings inside and out and manufactured to length - endless. As George has suggested, you will probably have to put flanges on either sides of the pulleys, you can't scale nature.
Regards Ian.
-
Hi Ian
The flour mill had 6 floors with each floor having about 30 flour grinding machines per floor and all were leather belt driven and each floor connected to a rope race that was driven by a huge 3 - cylinder steam engine.
The drive belts to the milling machines were jointed with Alligator metal jointing clips, still available on the market, they had teeth that the belt was cut and inserted between the teeth of one of the clips and hammered closed and the other into the matching clip that had a series of holes , just like a door hinge that allowed a slip pin to go thro' to join up the belts allowing the belt to flex as it drove the machines and as you have said produced a clicking noise as it passed over the pulleys.
All of the drive pulleys in full size were very much larger than the small pulley on Jerry's dynamo which I feel the bell will continually fall off.
You may notice that Mamod and other small steam models use a grooved pully and a spring drive belt that when cut to size one end screws into the other.
Jerry.
Once you have scarfed both ends of the belt glued before sewing, what type of glue stays bendable after sewing ?
The only adhesive that I know of is the rubber solution to mend punctures on bike inner tubes, which would allow the belt to go around such a small pulley, but then the stitching will not allow the joint to bend around the small pulley
Last question can you get the burner into the fire tube as the dynamo looks very close to the boiler.
Great job Jerry, the blue looks great.
George.
-
Belts all finished. Used Bostik contact adhesive to hold ends together for sewing. Used twin needles and half hitches for sewing. Joints are perfectly flexible to go over pulleys. The belts can’t come off the two pulleys in the gantry because there’s nowhere for them to wander off to. The only belt that can come off a pulley is the final drive belt. The generator is moveable and has a little adjustment radially. If the belt wanders too much then I’ll add end plates to the pulley.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/02/18/7AD38212-D2CB-4A22-A831-6E7EA2F04815.jpg)
Plenty of room for the burner. Gas tank will be remote from the plant and will feed burner from below mounting base.
Jerry C.
-
Hi Jerry,
I have no experience with Bostik does does it stay flexible when cured, hope you will not need to fit end guide end plates to the pulleys on the generator.
Look forward to the plant working. Glad to hear that Mary is getting out on the bike, I am afraid that it will be some time before I am allowed out on the bike.
I am not even allowed int the W/Shop, this is the 4th week since I was discharged from The G.R.I so a bit to go yet.
Take care
Geo
-
For some reason I’m not getting notifications for this thread. Tried unnotifying /notify to no avail.
Jerry C.
-
Hi Jerry,
Everything working this end,
Have you tried contacting Moderator.
George.
-
A little more. I made a mount for my Seivert burner and a gas pipe to the Butane camping gas cylinder.
I didn’t make a good job when I measured up for the belt lengths so forced to raise the gantry by 3/8”.
Only a few small things to do like making Frankestine switches and a combination volt/amp meter.
I hope all completed before we return to UK and our Narrowboat.
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/03/10/A042ED90-20A7-4321-8149-1AF8FE763124.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/03/10/38FFF33E-FC53-4D12-8E8A-F7DB99CD985B.jpg)
(https://www.modelboatmayhemimages.co.uk/images/2023/03/10/DC6C70EC-5FCC-4F2C-B450-2A5212809573.jpg)
Jerry C.
-
Bonjour Jerry,
For information, Pendlesteam made for me a vertical burner for my diameter : https://youtu.be/x7BvLdwiGB0
His site https://www.pendlesteamboilers.co.uk
-
This boiler is 5” return flow scotch boiler. The burner type you mentioned wouldn’t be suitable. You can’t light the burner at the top of the chimney. You have to light it at the nozzle.
Jerry C.
-
Agreed Jerry, to be able to light the burner from the chimney, I have found that the burner needs to be of a type that is a tight fit in the flue tube....not a "Sievert burner" type.
-
That’s us back in Blighty after two days of flying, Canberra-Sydney-Singapore- Frankfurt-Manchester. Back on Angelica and back on UK time, jet lag gone.
I’ll be back on Mayhem November.
Follow us on Facebook, Angelica’s Adventures, the story of two old codgers on the cut.
TTFN.
Jerry C.
-
Bonjour,
Please note that I can light on this vertical burner made by Pendlesteam on demand without any problrm through the chemney :
https://youtu.be/1itsN_gffWA (https://youtu.be/1itsN_gffWA)
-
My boiler is a return flow scotch boiler. By the time the gas gets to the top of the chimney there’s a hell of a lot of gas between chimney and the burner. A big bang in the making!
Jerry C.
-
Bonjour Jerry,
Had you seen my test on my double return boiler : https://youtu.be/dUN8NYqWXEk ?
-
Early on in this build I was warned against lighting at the flue like in that video.
My boiler is 5” in diameter. The end compartments are very thin stainless steel cans. They are lightly attached to the boiler ends and not designed to resist or even experience pressure. If pressure does inadvertently occur its effect varies as the square of the boiler diameter. I’m not going to risk it. It lights very easily at the burner end.
Jerry C.
-
Back in UK, on board Narrowboat Angelica for summer cruise. If you want, follow us on Facebook. Page name Angelica’s Adventures.
Jerry C.