Model Boat Mayhem
Mess Deck: General Section => Model Boating => Topic started by: ivorthediver on November 07, 2020, 04:21:33 pm
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I wonder if I might seek your advice please .
I have recently acquired a part built sailing model of a kit purchased by the original owner in 1999 but never completed .
The hull is built but there he lost interest it seems , and it is a well built planked hull in to which he has fitted as recommended a 6v motor , and although the instructions are in French [of which I know none] it appears straight forward and with the sloop chest duly raided I have fitted a sail winch and completed the rudder installation and I am now approaching the deck fitting out .
I see that I can fit a 6v SLA battery with room in the bow area and I am now faced with what electrics to fit that would complement this kit
Being a modeller brought up on ACTion gear I am fitting a standard distribution board , along with a speed controller of some type to control the motor but not sure which one to fit that will fit in as space is a tad tight .
I use Spektrum gear which along with my collection of ACTion equipment has served me well so far .
Could any of you sailer modellers offer me some advice please on the best choice to make in this respect . :}
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You may mean Cap Sizun? If so have a look at this one. https://forum-naval.forumactif.com/t5186-cap-sizun-le-langoustier
Good Luck. :-))
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Hi Tony , thanks for that but have seen that site and gained many photos from it very helpful detail on it but thanks for trying to help .
I am happy to complete the model but not so sure about the correct ESC to use at present .
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HI Ivor,
It was just to get the idea of what you actually have to start with so, for example a rough size and weight would be useful, as would an idea of what 6v motor is there (Diameter and length would be a start - photo's would be better)What size or propellor will it be driving?
Tony
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Hi Tony , the hull is 29"x 10", and the prop is 1 1/4" 4 blade brass but was a three blade plastic , and the battery will be a 6v 2 1/2 x 1 3/4" x 4" and is a 5 AH size and weighs under a kilogram can't remember the exact thou ..., the motor supplied with the kit I think is approx a 300 ish size with a 2mm shaft and was fitted at the time of purchase .
I have no way of being certain but most of the kit appears to be there but many of the sealed bags may have been opened but to early to tell and it apparently requires 43 working blocks and has a main sail on a boom two in front and a triangle one on top and I have a rigging plan which looks a nightmare to a modeller who's years have been spent making military scale models and Tugs [ all with fibreglass hulls only and the rest scratch built ...i.e. Manxman / Troubridge / Victorious/ Chaser and a batch 3 OPV , apart from flower class corvettes and the normal run of the mill plastic conversions , and a very large Damian ASD 2810 which has been the clubs rescue boat ...... but have always liked sailing boats [ provided it had an auxiliary motor and along came this just as I was thinking of hanging up my tools :}
I have plenty of club members who do sail [that I have recovered over the past 11 years including recovering from the bottom of our club lake lake 5+m deep [ when I still had my Scuba Diving kit ] so vowed I would never sail by wind alone .
I have had the offer of a ESC from a fellow member which I will take up but as I said before I'm in" uncharted waters " here and perhaps being over cautious in getting it right .
I will obviously have to adapt the decking to accept the installation / removal of the battery [ which I suspect the builder had in mind as although the hull it built he omitted a couple of deck beams to allow for insertion behind the bowsprit ] , and been thinking of installing a box type structure to slip the battery into [ without a lid obviously ] which should "contain " any movement whilst sailing as velcro is fine but in the proposed position would be neigh impossible to remove when the occasion arose , and don't want to risk damaging the hull during the exercise . and I note that the French plans nominate 2.5 kilo's of lead shot as ballast , [ but not knowing any French that could be repeated do not know if that is. or is not. including the battery weight... :embarrassed: .
I still have enough lead shot from old weight belts so thats no issue
Very keen to make a start but naturally very nervous as wood is less forgiving than plasticard ever was and if materials are missing then where to purchase similar type replacement materials from ?..........still life is full of trials and tribulations but my pockets are not bottomless and my skills are from down a parallel course ..........
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If you plan to do any regular sailing (as opposed to motoring), I suggest you try and place your battery as low as possible in the hull and ideally somewhere towards the middle of the hull, not in the bows. If it was me, I would leave the SLA ashore and go for a smaller, lighter alternative. Some of the pictures on the French website show a false keel with a ballast bulb. Do you plan to use one of those? You will get much improved sailing performance if you do. Light in the hull, heavy in the keel is the way to go.
Lovely boat, by the way! I envy you picking up a find like this. I guess the kit is no longer available. Shame.
Greg
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On that basis you're probably only running at <5amps so as long as you use a slow start ESC anything around the 15amp would be ample.
ONLY my guestimate of course and there are plenty on here who know loads more.Greg advice re. SLA is definitely the best, simply because it gives you the chance of placing the ballast where it's needed and not where the battery demands..
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Thanks Greg for your advice , I had considered a Lipo as I use them elsewhere, [11.3] but then I would require a voltage reducer to drive the installed motor. more kit offset against greater duration ?
Not a techie so science and formulas are wasted on me as being dyslexic limits some of my abilities or at least frustrates my abilities regrettably :embarrassed:
[/size][size=78%]In answer to the "Bulb" suggestion , I saw the one discussed on the French website mentioned earlier and whilst I would be confidant in [/size]constructing one and clamping it to the keel the lakes in which we sail as a club are cursed with weed and flotsam which from witnessing others frustration I preferred the design of this vessels keel incorporating the rudder with minimum projections liable to foul the keel line , and whilst I admire others who are not only very adept at sailing get very anul about coefficients, line , and the technical niceties of sailing , I would be content just swanning around on the ripples of others wakes , but thats just me sadly ......[size=78%]
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High Tony , yes Gregs advice on the Lipo is sound advice I accept but , unless I rip out the motor installed and refit a 12v motor I can't see an answer to the point I made earlier ............but open to alternatives within financial restraints before I proceed with the build :embarrassed:
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Why rip out the motor? Unless its very picky it should work ok on 7.4 volts from a Lipo? Normally a 6v motor will work quite happily on the 7.2 volts of a NiMh.
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So the 7.4 lipo would be sound with it ..........sounds promising compromise then ......what capacity [ allowing ample safety margin as I learn how to sail the model ] always go for safety is a habit born out of my Diving days which is very hard to ignore :embarrassed:
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Look for a 2S LiFe pack, this has a nominal voltage of 6.6V and full charge of 7.2V so will be nearer the voltage of the SLA battery.
Jim
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I'm only a learner at them since I mostly don't need the lightness so have almost always used NiCads or NiMh.It really depends on the motor spec. as to a red line If it hasn't been fitted yet, or it's easily accessible, then it wouldn't take much to replace it, either cost-wise or otherwise with one of known spec. from someone like Component Shop. As you'll know from the military stuff, most motors are versions of the Mabuchis and the diameters etc. stay pretty constant.
As far as battery capacity is concerned, look at Component Shop again and see what the sizes/weights/prices are and decide from there. https://www.componentshop.co.uk/
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As Jim says, a 2s LiFe would run your motor just fine. A battery like this (https://www.componentshop.co.uk/6-4v-3300-mah-life-26650-pack.html)would probably serve you well unless you expect to motor around for hours at a time. Regarding ballast, I understand the weed/foreign object issue having suffered myself from a similar problem. Have you considered a lead shoe fixed to the bottom of the keel that mimics the original keel line at a lower level without weed-catching angles or edges? That could still be removable for display purposes but would allow you to get your ballast as low as possible and lessen the chance of you needing your scuba gear for a rescue.
Whatever you choose (and it's your model after all), do let us know how you get on.
Happy building
Greg
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Thanks Greg ,
I must admit I am itching to get started on this my first sailing model [ always assuming that an auxiliary motor does not place my model which will be renamed "PELLEW" in another category] as I must admit I had trouble finding this post since viewing yesterday as I was not sure where I would find it :embarrassed:
Now with the benefit of advice from the membership I feel a little more confident in proceeding ......not with the actual construction , more in doing it in the right order and without doing it twice and correctly , so many thanks to you all who helped me straighten out some issues that were causing me to be worried and confused
My first step will be to go through the kit and make sure I have what I need to start ,and that if not ....I know where to source replacements..... as the company that supplied it may not be around to give that information ? since 1999 or worst still where to get it
Most of the packs within the kit have been opened so I dont know if they may have been used elsewhere :o .
Deciphering bits of the drawing and viewing the items alerts me to things I know are not there so I have been sourcing some items in readiness [ as a modeller I know only to well when more than one model is on the go you use a bit and forget to replace it later .]......some items may be easy to replace or in your sloop chest .....but as I said this is my first wooden sailing model so it will be a challenge
Some bits may Not be up to scratch and need to be remade to of a more durable material [ never been a fan of white metal ] so better check my brass stocks and sharpen my tools .....God its like a " re run" of the Youtube series on the pilot cutter being rebuilt in America bit by bit ...........a great Fan but not really keen on such a challenging epic of a task .
Again my sincere thanks to you all and if I may I will ask for your assistance again as and when it raises , but never been able to upload photo's successfully yet and you are experienced more than I in this area of modelling [ I thought a belaying pin was used by lazy seamstress.. :embarrassed:
One point comes to mind on this Big Girl.... is how do you transport it with all that sail area .......on my other models you just removed bits of the superstructure but with a hull this big and a bowsprit and mains , and jib sails I may need to get a lorry and sell my car :((
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Transport is always an issue with large sailing models. The only reasonable way (stand fast owning a motor home or large van) is to have the rig (and bowsprit in your case) designed for straightforward removal so you can pack them away or at least store them in a rig bag or box. If you start out knowing you will have to do this, it is not too difficult to engineer a process which allows fairly quick rigging and de-rigging. It will never be as quick as flicking a switch and popping your boat in the water, but it's worth the extra minutes for the pleasure of watching your craft sailing around.
Quick release connections to the sheets are easy to arrange with clips like this (https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/130843907568?chn=ps&var=430144150548&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=430144150548_130843907568&targetid=1065995239197&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045781&campaignid=10204071591&mkgroupid=104953044434&rlsatarget=aud-629407026865:pla-1065995239197&abcId=1145987&merchantid=113632212&gclid=CjwKCAiAkan9BRAqEiwAP9X6UV0C4lxfpa8U_9uv4YMtBVm2s_6uNdVX5pmSxXBye1yP2WCI4MBPBRoCkXAQAvD_BwE). Rigging connections might take a little more thought. Perhaps you could have a single shroud each side hooked to an eye bolt in the gunwhale and the other rigging made of elastic to provide the scale effect, also just hooked in place? The bowsprit is designed at full scale to be easily slid inboard, so you could follow that in your model - unship the inboard end and slide back along the deck, leaving its rigging in place.
It's a lovely model, and well worth a bit of thought to see her sailing without taking all day to rig.
(https://i.servimg.com/u/f49/11/90/69/93/top1212.jpg)
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I couldn't agree with you more Greg , and hopefully the wait to find her at long last .
On the point of rigging I Said that I would spend the day going through the kit in case there were some shortages ....and guess what I have no sheaves for the blocks it requires [ 43 ] so if you know where I can obtain them I would be very grateful to know of it .
the instructions that I have been able to get a translation of [ though not very good as it keeps referring back to the French instructions which makes the translation about as much use as a chocolate teapot .
I has a pack with the wood sections to glue together , and the pins but no brass sheaves >:-o to which it refers .
Ok so I thought having ordered the replacement motor and ESC I would see what state the prop shaft was in and the universal couplings hmmmmmm......well the shaft had no lube applied and was bowed ....so managed to get it into a reasonable state and refitted it only to find that the shaft had no flats on either the shaft or the motor journal to which it was slid inside :(( .....so going to look past the Varnish and check it a lot more thoroughly before she has a soak test in the water
Thank you Greg , for the valuable advice but which of the pulleys / blocks should be replaced with working ones rather than decoration please and should I supplement some with turnbuckles which should be a tad quicker unless I am mistaken :embarrassed:
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On the point of rigging I Said that I would spend the day going through the kit in case there were some shortages ....and guess what I have no sheaves for the blocks it requires [ 43 ] so if you know where I can obtain them I would be very grateful to know of it .
I has a pack with the wood sections to glue together , and the pins but no brass sheaves >:-o to which it refers .
Thank you Greg , for the valuable advice but which of the pulleys / blocks should be replaced with working ones rather than decoration please and should I supplement some with turnbuckles which should be a tad quicker unless I am mistaken :embarrassed:
You don't say what size sheave you require, but these (https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/32580-Brass-Sheave-4mm--Pack-of-10--32580.html)might do the job. They come in a range of sizes. A more detailed search than I have done could give you other sources. As for which should be dummies and which actually working, that is down to your own choice. For example, you will need to decide if you want to be able to raise and lower the mainsail or keep it fully rigged all the time. If fully rigged, you won't need to replicate the halyards accurately (or at all if you want to keep things simple). I would start planning your rigging from a blank sheet of paper - draw out the mast, boom, gaff and bowsprit and add the sails and connecting points. Keep everything to the bare minimum you need to make the rig work. Then any additions will be cosmetic and you can go to town on those if you want, or leave them out to keep everything straightforward. Models like this owe a lot of their character to the complexity of the rigging, but don't drive yourself to distraction trying to copy the full size rigging, or even the excellent models on that French website. Do what makes you happy. And you can always add details later if you want to. As for turnbuckles, they might make rigging easier in the early days, but I think you will find that once you have got everything set up, you will rarely adjust them (and they don't fit the scale appearance very well). Perhaps try them first off and then see if you can move to a simpler but slightly more scale solution.
But most of all - enjoy your build!
Greg
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Thank you Greg , they are the ones I viewed earlier today but they failed to show thickness of the sheave only diameter , but I have asked Sarah to check and let me know in due course .
The ones I need seem to be 6mm in diameter and no more than 2mm thick , so will have to wait .for her reply .
Thanks for your response Greg, which I greatly appreciate
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Well the deeper I go into the "kit" the more seems to have been misappropriated , but nothing I cant resolve where the type is obvious .... with a few exceptions .
My biggest issue seems to be rudder movement which is slight to put it mildly , and having tried pulleys , eyes , and reconfiguring the servo schematics its still very slim at about 1/2;" total in either direction , is this normal in this type of period vessel ?.
I have remade the installed tiller three times and lengthened it but all to no avail , and just bought a new metal geared 8 kg torque servo from C Shop.and a much longer arm to fit it so perhaps that will solve this issue .
Another issue is the missing bulwark capping which was apparently cedar , tried pine cut to shape but is not flexible enough to "twist" and follow the top of the bulwark profile , so looks like its back to 6mm plywood :(( cut to profile and pinned / glued in place which will then have to be painted rather than matt varnish which would have been my preference would have been oak stained and matt varnished not a racing yacht was she not ?
After all is said and done thats the problem with taking over another ones project .
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Well the deeper I go into the "kit" the more seems to have been misappropriated , but nothing I cant resolve where the type is obvious .... with a few exceptions .
My biggest issue seems to be rudder movement which is slight to put it mildly , and having tried pulleys , eyes , and reconfiguring the servo schematics its still very slim at about 1/2;" total in either direction , is this normal in this type of period vessel ?.
I have remade the installed tiller three times and lengthened it but all to no avail , and just bought a new metal geared 8 kg torque servo from C Shop.and a much longer arm to fit it so perhaps that will solve this issue .
Rudder throw is usually described in degrees. On most model boats, about 35-40 either side does the job, much more doesn't do any more steering, but does act as a brake. Since most servos naturally offer 35-45 degrees each side of centre, simple geometry says that having both the tiller arm and the servo arm about the same length will have the rudder throw match that of the servo. It also helps a lot if both arms are at right angles to the line between the two pivots when centred.
A servo arm much longer than the tiller arm usually results in the tiller arm being toggled over and latching the rudder facing the wrong way, if it doesn't break anything while doing so.
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Well however it is measured there was not enough old fruit .
Sought advice and ended up removing it from where it was originally fitted and moved it nearer the stern and set it at an angle which greatly eased the throw and stripped out the entire fitting and cleaned it up and it now works fine with direct linkage via dual control rods so now working out all the mast ironwork needed which went walkabout prior to me getting the remains of the kit .
Learning a whole new language and terminology now , and thoroughly enjoying the new realm of modelling you will be pleased to hear Greg .......very addictive it has become
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Learning a whole new language and terminology now , and thoroughly enjoying the new realm of modelling you will be pleased to hear Greg
I am! :-)) O0
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Thanks dear Sir , onward and upward .....or should that be "On a different tack and coming about now "
Thanks for looking in Greg .
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Transport is always an issue with large sailing models. The only reasonable way (stand fast owning a motor home or large van) is to have the rig (and bowsprit in your case) designed for straightforward removal so you can pack them away or at least store them in a rig bag or box. If you start out knowing you will have to do this, it is not too difficult to engineer a process which allows fairly quick rigging and de-rigging. It will never be as quick as flicking a switch and popping your boat in the water, but it's worth the extra minutes for the pleasure of watching your craft sailing around.
Quick release connections to the sheets are easy to arrange with clips like this (https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/130843907568?chn=ps&var=430144150548&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-134428-41853-0&mkcid=2&itemid=430144150548_130843907568&targetid=1065995239197&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9045781&campaignid=10204071591&mkgroupid=104953044434&rlsatarget=aud-629407026865:pla-1065995239197&abcId=1145987&merchantid=113632212&gclid=CjwKCAiAkan9BRAqEiwAP9X6UV0C4lxfpa8U_9uv4YMtBVm2s_6uNdVX5pmSxXBye1yP2WCI4MBPBRoCkXAQAvD_BwE). Rigging connections might take a little more thought. Perhaps you could have a single shroud each side hooked to an eye bolt in the gunwhale and the other rigging made of elastic to provide the scale effect, also just hooked in place? The bowsprit is designed at full scale to be easily slid inboard, so you could follow that in your model - unship the inboard end and slide back along the deck, leaving its rigging in place.
It's a lovely model, and well worth a bit of thought to see her sailing without taking all day to rig.
(https://i.servimg.com/u/f49/11/90/69/93/top1212.jpg)
Thanks Greg , Since starting I have found that very little of the original kit was present , so have spent an age compiling parts and or manufacturing them from scratch .
I think as I am new to sailing boats the best thing would be to get her in the water in her intended form and then look to re rig her in a quicker format having learnt the ropes if you will forgive the phrase .
Most of the mechanical issues are now resolved and its getting down to the fitting of the deck whilst ensuring she will be watertight as far as is practical .
To this end I have bought some 1.5mm ply and some slow cure epoxy resin which I will glue to the deck beams paying particular attention to the peripheral edges where the scuppers drain the deck ........ then fit the planking to that surface as the current deck runs all over the place and I wouldn't want to risk her drainage runs in her current form ....hence the precautions .
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ok just an update on progress lads .
Obtained the 1.5 mm ply and that I will epoxy to the deck beams once it arrives from over the pond .
Been spending a lot of time and knuckle skin making the blocks , and my good lady has taken pity on me and bought me a small belt sander to fit on the bench for Xmas , so should be able to grow some new skin for my knuckles soon :-)
The Bain of my life [ the servo operation] has reached a point of despair and on closer inspection whilst in operation it seems as if the servo is trying to drag it through the deck >:-o this appears to be aggravated by a 2mm shaft in a 4mm aperture which is being bent in every direction and now seems the best time to resolve this item prior to the deck being fitted and then planked , so time to bite the bullet and I have ordered a 45mm x 4mm prop shaft case with a 230mm prop shaft which the later will be used to pivot the rudder once shaped and cut to size and epoxy in place , the reason being to ease the turning of the rudder shaft by restraint in the bronze bushes of the prop shaft outer casing rather than the 2m shaft which was feed down the opening and into the top of the angled rudder devoid of any casing as far as I have been able to find .and bends the shaft
I have remade the rudder to make it slightly broader as most club members advised that it was to narrow to be of much use so took their advice , as this does not look to be a 5 minute build .
I am toying with Gregs suggestion of fitting a metal sleeve on the bottom of the keel which is not very broad ./ thick
I have wondered about fitting a couple of S/S eyes which has more wood inside the hull rather than the 10mm exposed beneath the planking. or epoxying a hardwood plinth to it to give me more to work with...... any experience of this idea Gentleman ?
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Progress being made and the hull nearly completed , and just started to fit the masts and standing rigging which is an education in itself to one who knows nothing about a sailing set up .
Can any of you offer any advice about determining how long a keel extension should be and any guidance on construction which may help .
I am NOT on the water yet but I try to look at the bigger picture prior to arriving there to try and plan ahead where possible
I have already fitted a 230mm length of steel box section to the existing keel , blanked off the ends and fitted it into the wooden keel at two points with stainless steel screws and epoxy resin , having sited it on the centre line at the balance point fore and aft so confident that it should not adversely affect its balance other than lowering it closer to the known water line mark .
Not sure wether to use a rod or a sheet profile yet but fairly open minded about it ........any comments please ?
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Any one have any bright ideas about changing servo control lines in brass tubes please ?
When I took possession of this part built model the blue and white stripped line which has been in there for 12 years needs replacing but this particular pipe is coiled and bent in two places and I am not confident in attempting changing it over .
The fore Sail and the front sail I have already done successfully but apprehensive in tackling the mainsail one which is housed in a brass tube 1.5 mm internal diameter 300mm long with two coiled ends .....any help gratefully received please
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Ivor, I confess I don't fully understand your last two posts. I can imagine your steel box section under the keel, but have you left it hollow inside while sealing the ends? If so, you are negating some of the benefit, as that trapped air is buoyant and will act against the ballasting effect of the steel. At the very least you should allow water into the steel tube, and ideally the piece you attach should be solid. Or fill the tube with something denser than water. I also imagine you are fitting fairing pieces at each end of the tube to blend into the keel line rather than having a square blanked-off end facing the flow of water?
As for replacing the servo lines, are the old ones still in place? If so, carefully superglue the end of the new line to the end of the old, and use the old line to pull the new one through. Just overlap the lines by a small amount and keep the ends well glued to prevent fraying and snagging, and take it gently. If this fails, or the old lines aren't in place anymore, I suggest some thin flexible wire such as fishing trace wire, which you should be able to push through the tubes and around the bends, then attach the new lines as before and pull through.
Hope that helps a bit. If you still need help, can I suggest posting a couple of pictures of the offending parts as it makes it much easier to diagnose the problems.
Happy modelling!
Greg
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Hi Greg nice to hear from you glad your still around and hope you remain that way
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Yes you are right and the box section does flood , my query was more towards gauging the minimum length that would help avoid swamping the boat and if there was a formula by which you could gain an insight as to parameters ..or to just get it wet and gauge visually what was needed .
Pictures are where me and technology fail to Jell sadly .....otherwise I could show you what I was trying to describe , and my progress to date %)
I will try your suggestion re the replacement of control lines , again if I could show you it would be much easier ......the pipe is not unlike the shape of the reproductive genitals of a drake .....hence the issue , but it will try your suggestion
Just started fitting the standing rigging , which having no knowledge of sailing terminology is in itself a voyage of discovery , but I will brave the abuse of my fellow club members before I attempt sailing this craft
Thank you for looking in Greg and for your assistance here .
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Yes I'm still alive lads , and have managed to "float my boat" now and am bitten by the sailing bug .
I took Gregs advice and fashioned a drop keel fitting which worked very well indeed and with the help of another member of many years took to the water and had a wonderful sail around the club lake .
Like most models It will never be finished as minor changes / improvements are the order of the day .
I have yet to fit the top sail but I will wait until I have mastered the current rig , and confidently handle the model , as the highest wind I have sailed in to date is 7 MPH gusting to 9 in which she sailed very well and now I have accepted that " Pellew" is not a racing yacht , but a robust French scale fishing boat and very pleased with her , just still curious as to how she will handle with the top sail fitted and if she maintains her sailing charm or wether she will scare me to death or threatens to sink {:-{ .
I would like to find another period scale model sailing boat to build , but have not been able to locate one that could be adapted for R/C rather than a display model , but I will just keep looking .
All things considered I have no regrets and enjoy this more sedate passage over the water , just need to polish up on my skill sets ......thanks for looking in .......Ivor .
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Here is Ivor's model sailing at Cawcutts Lake, Cambridge this morning.
Barrie
(https://i89.servimg.com/u/f89/17/07/25/93/img_2106.jpg) (https://servimg.com/view/17072593/2421)
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I have watched this re-build commencing November 2020 and am particularly interested in the steerage O0
Does the Tiller [rudder arm] move according to the rudder servo movement?
Does the Helmsman/Skipper] move or slide with the tiller
Is the rudder to Tiller arm a 1:1 ratio?.......
I understand the inclined angle of the rudder Pintal may have caused some concern
She looks superb on the water Ivor :-)) you should be proud, & am sure she sails well on calm seas
Derek
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Good Morning Derek , Thanks for looking in .
No not yet , for two reasons :-
1/ until I saw how much water would be sloping around I was reluctant to introduce any further openings ,
2/ I had so many issues trying to get the linkage aligned that I just wanted steerage without the servo trying to sink the boat {:-{
Now sorted out and works fine , but with a couple of pulleys and some line its easy enough to fit in , but as I said I just wanted to get it working well enough to risk putting on the lake with a reasonable chance of recovery , which it now does after increasing the rudder size substantially [ below ] and the fitting of the sailing keel which I made up out of an old dive weight and a brass sheet cut in a rough triangular shape .
Fair to say she is no "Greyhound of the seas " but she always comes home in one piece and very pleasant sailing .......enough to keep this Silver surfer happy anyway ........ :-)