Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Pleasure boats, Sports, Race, Power and Leisure Boats: => Topic started by: jpdenver on December 18, 2020, 05:42:20 pm
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Greetings again from the Rocky Mountains in Colorado.
Time for my Winter Build.
I chose to go back in time a bit and try my hand at The Bluebird of Chelsea.
This will be my 7th craft. and my second POF. I have spent much of the last
8 years in the Steam Forum, with various open launches.
This time is the first where I am going to try and keep things "historically accurate",
or close as possible, especially since the boat is still floating.
So for research I bought the book by Martin Summers, "Bluebird, a dream of a boat in six acts"
Then I searched on this site and found reference to a long series of articles in Model Boats. 1991-1992
and contacted Colin Bishop who was kind enough to send me the scans. (By the way, the series has been consolidated into a PDF if anyone is interested.)
This lead me to the plans that were available by David Metcalf, the author of the original article.
Finally - I found an actual kit out of China, at 1:18 on eBay. Since I had recently got a boost in my
"allowance", I decided to splurge on the kit and after almost a month of planning, now had what I felt
to be a good starting point.
Once I had the plans and the kit on hand, I needed to do a few things before I could start.
1. I had the plans re-scaled to 1:18.
2. I spent a week with Google Translator - translating the manual from Chinese to English.
3. Ordered in supplies for Glue, Epoxy, Glass Mesh, Sandpaper, etc.
4. Booked some vacation time with both my work boss and my home boss.
So - Here we go.
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An interesting project Jim......[880mm LOA?]....I can just see the Dogs & you lounging out on the aft Promenade Deck 8)
Could be a distortion, but the aft set of portlights in the Chinese images do not appear in line with the fwd sets, whereas the Plans and photographs of the actual vessel confirm a straight line
Merry Christmas..... Derek
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Hi jp, enjoy the build, I built mine from scratch from a 1/2” to the ft plan or 1/24th scale.
I really enjoyed the build and she sails like a dream.
John
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Looking forward to this. One of the boats I always wanted to build, but never got around to it....
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Thanks for the comments.
Derek - Using the drawing, if I make a line that bisects the forward portholes,
I find that the rear ones are actually about 1/8 of a diameter above the front ones.
Just enough of a difference to be noticeable.
Since most of the pics are at an angle, I think it is one cases where you think it should be even
and is just enough "off" to make you think.
Happy Holidays,
Jim
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I opened the box.
First impressions:
1. Lots of VERY thin sheets. Lots of intricate laser cuts.
2. The "fiddley bits" are either brass or 3D Printed.
3. More Photo-Etched parts than I have seen before.
Disappointments:
1. Would rather have cast parts in stead of 3D Printed. Given the topics on trying to create chrome on plastic.
2. No Drawings3. No Pics
However, since I had been in touch with the sellers in China, I had asked for some pics and drawings.
They had already sent me a PDF of the manual (in chinese) that I translated - one paragraph at a time.
I did this even before I ordered the kit.
There are ample pictures in it - that you will see soon -
But no drawings, which is why I bought the set of Dave Metcalfs drawings.
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More:
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:o
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That all looks very well put together and good quality parts too.
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There seems to be an interest in the Bluebird of Chelsea - fellow in Nanaimo has just started his build - we enlarged Dave Metcalf's plan to produce a 52 inch model and he's just at the frame stage.
There is another fellow in Europe producing a kit - Aquamarine RC Boats - on Facebook. One of our club members has built a couple of his other kits. You can see his builds on the Victoria Model Boats Facebook page.
I started a model about 10 years ago and hope to revive the build - got held up with other things.
Look forward to your build posts.
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She's a lovely looking boat and I'll be following your progress with interest,
keep the pics coming :-))
Dale.
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This is where I got my kit:
https://ebay.us/hG4KV5
As I have said, the store was very easy to deal with.
But as usual the language difference was sometimes in the way.
After unpacking the kit I found that the thinner wood (Sapele) sheets were
very much prone to slight warping. So I had to be careful to keep thing flat and
under a little weight.
Even though I translated the manual, I did not really read it. So the first thing I did
was to sit down and re-read the book. Then the MB Article. and finally the manual.
What I found was that even though the manual was translated, the word choice was sometimes
cumbersome. For example - the word "Bond" was used in place of Glue.
Also the word Polish in place of Sand. And in places the grammar would make your elementary school teacher cringe!
But - it was mostly understandable when you referred to the pictures in the manual and studied the other resources.
The manual (60+ Pages) is broken down into sections. Hull, Deck Features, Cabin Features, Cabin, Aft Deck, ForeDeck,
And each section can be completed independently until you have to but things together.
The author of the manual takes directly to you and tells you a number of times to slow down and be careful. Kind of amusing.
I am going to start with the Hull.
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The Hull.
Start by attaching the guide plates to a board.
Then glue the frames to the plates (make sure things are square)
Assemble the keel. and mount it to the plates.
This gives you a firm framework to plank.
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More work on the hull last night.
Started by fitting the ribs. BTW - The translator dubbed them "Dragon Ribs" in the manual.
Then comes the planks.
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Came down this morning to find that my youngest (Greyhound Puppy)
had found a piece on the floor and . . .
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Luckily - there were two of these pieces.
So a copy was made - and the perpetrator blocked from free access to the workshop.
Onward to the planking the hull.
More to come.
Jim
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Planking the hull.
I am a rank beginner at planking a hull. Decks I can handle, but hulls and I are strangers.
The Bluebird has a painted hull. So I guess that as long as I fill all my mistakes and sand a lot,
I will be able to cover up my amateur efforts.
The plans say to plank, fill, sand, and apply epoxy w/fiberglass mesh.
So first is the planking:
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And More planking:
Yeah, that's a blood splatter on the wood.
I made a sacrifice to the "Spirit of the Machine" (or is it a Water Sprite?).
I am finding the wood provided by the kit for planking to be pliable but also
rough and not coming out as smooth as I had hoped. So I guess I had better
stock up with sand paper.
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That planking looks very good to me. It is amazing how some sand paper and filler transform the roughness of the hull into a thing of beauty..
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Hi. Very nice and I looked at that kit before but I thought it had a ready formed hull. You are building at a very impressive pace, might this by any chance be a retrospective build blog?
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RST -
I am about 1 week behind in my posting.
However, I did buy the kit back in September and spent the last two months
getting all the ducks lined up. Reading the book, ordering Dave Metcalf's drawings,
getting ESCs and related gear not in the kit.
We are "Stay at Home" these days so I can spend 6-8 hours a day in the shop.But basically this is all real-time.
I have more to post, but at this point I need to do some cleanup on the hull.
I sort of botched my first attempt at applying epoxy and glass without my usual tutor,
a fellow member of my club with a lot more experience at glassing a hull.
It is rather embarrassing to see the drips I discovered on the hull after it dried.
So I am sanding it down and will pick up the posting after I get it cleaned up.
I may post some of the "errors of my ways" when I have a final version to
meet with everyone's approvals.
Regards,
Jim
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OK, So my wife reminds me that one of the reasons I post here is to
let the good be seen with the bad (or goofed).
So here is the sequence that brings us up to date on the hull progress:
First was to cut the hull off the stand that was created by mounting
the frames to the board.
Then clean up the inside and add the additional support stringers for the deck.
A coat of epoxy on the inside of the hull.
And then work on the outside with wood-putty.
Sand and reapply and sand some more.
Thanks,
Jim
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I sanded, filled again, and sanded some more:Waiting a night between sessions.
Then I tried my hand at glassing.
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Hi Jim
The boat very good, nice work!!!
I have two goes of planking and with diagonal and straight sanding like they do cars.
You will get a good smooth hull.
I use a car filler/primer to find all the little lumps and dips.
The primer/filler will sand a lighter colour than the dips and the lumps will go back to the resin coat.
Canabus
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I spent today sanding the hull down to get rid of the drips.
You can see the shadows in the next pictures.
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Now you know why I was "xxxxx" off at myself.
So after sanding it down, I decided that I would like to apply a second coat,plus I figured out that I forgot to glass the transom.
I also had a "penetrating glimpse into the obvious"
- you can not just put on a coat and walk away.
- you have to keep working the epoxy, gently brushing to smooth it out and keep it from forming a drip.
So I did it again, this time I stayed around for a 1/2 an hour until things started to cure and thicken.
I also only did half of it and tried to keep the surface semi-horizontal so as to minimize the effect of gravity.
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A simple tip for the next time you need to epoxy the hull. Use less epoxy , you only need to use enough epoxy to wet the cloth. Brush on the epoxy until the cloth goes from white to translucent, if there are any white patches left then spread the epoxy out to cover these. If it looks like there is enough epoxy to run then you can remove the excess using a toilet roll, roll it over the hull and the excess will be absorbed, the epoxy soaked paper can be unrolled leaving the unused dry paper on the roll. (Make sure you roll it the right way so the paper doesn't unroll onto the hull.) You are not trying to fill the weave of the cloth with the first coat and the weave should be visible when the epoxy hardens, the first coat is to stick the cloth to the hull and seal the wood. Then give it a quick sanding and add a second light coat, again not enough to run. This should then be rubbed down and if you are going to paint the hull use a filler primer first to allow you to sand to a smooth finish.
Jim
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Jim,
Thanks for the tips. It may take a few tries, but I eventually catch on to a new technique.
I applied the second coat to the other side of the hull, and it went much better.
Very smooth, ready for primer and painting.
To all my followers -
In the manual, the instructions take a side trip to work on the various pieces of deck furniture
and the various control panels, then moving on to the cabin/wheelhouse.
So since I am following the manual in order, that is the path I will take.
More to come - Christmas is coming - the goose is getting fat, and I need to help finish the wrapping.
Happy Holidays to all,
see you on Boxing Day!
Warm Regards from Frigid Colorado,
Jim Pope
JPDenver
Denver, CO USA.
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SO -
On to the next step. Or actually a split in my focus.
While I sand and smooth and get the painting ready on the hull,
I am also going to start assembly of the various upper on-deck items
as well as the wheel-house and rear deck structures.
These are assembled in parts and then brought together.
First are the fore-deck storage boxes.
These can either be assembled"closed" or hinges can be added to make them "open-able"
I also need to establish a finish application routine to follow on all the
pieces and woodwork. The wood in the kit is Sapele, which is a type of African
hardwood.
A Woodworker's Guide says:
"Gorgeous mahogany look-alike with a slightly finer texture than Honduras Mahogany,
and a typically interlocked grain.
Sapele is also a lustrous wood that works fairly well in all operations -
planing, sawing, routing, sanding, etc."
I have not worked with it before now.I did some sample finishes,
and decided on the following technique:
- 1. Light sand to remove edges where needed.
- 2. If the dark "laser-burn" is not wanted, sand to remove it.
- 3. Assemble and confirm fits.
- 4. Either glue with CA or Finish pieces and then glue.
- - If very thin pieces getting laminated I will glue first to avoid warpage.
- 5. Use a water-based Poly as a "sanding sealer" - 1 coat.
- 6. Glue all pieces if not already done
- 7. Use my favorite "India Spar Varnish" - a true varnish. For 1 topcoat.
- 8. Let sit 24 hours.
- 9. Apply any hardware.
- 10. Add 2-3 topcoats of varnish. Waiting between coats, buff with 1000 scotch-cloth. between coats.
- Or something like that.
Who the heck knows, I am making this up as I go.(as usual).
More to come, I am going to re-read the manual and Dave Metcalf's construction article to compare sequences.
Regards, Jim
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Starting to take shape!
Looks like an interesting build. A friend up island is working on his 52 inch model
but I have seen any recent photos.
Out of interest - what is the fiberglass hull for - looks like a tug hull?
All the Best in the New Year!
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Thanks,
But I am not sure what hull you are referring to?
This hull is all POF followed by a fiberglass coat inside and out.
Jim
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Dec 23rd post - img 3374 - a small grey hull there beside your new one under construction.
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Out of interest - what is the fiberglass hull for - looks like a tug hull?
If you mean this:
Then it is actually a stack of plastic trays I use to hold sub assemblies.
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I started with the table for the rear deck:
before any finishes applied.
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Think I need to clean my glasses!
Looked like a hull at first!
Nice work on the table though!
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Here is the table with a couple of coats and the fore-deck storage boxes.
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Got another set of boxes/benches done - this time the set that is for the table on the rear deck.
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Tuesday - Worked on the Control Panels and interior furniture.
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The maker of this kit did a very nice job of marking the outlines of features by turning down the
laser intensity and using it to draw on the surface.
The next parts will be the exterior "fly-bridge" and wheel.
Speaking of wheels, I really hated the white plastic 3d printed ones they provided.So I took some liberty and found a pair of wheel kits in my junk box.
They are only a couple of MM larger, and made of wood. I stained them and added some
brass tacks for decoration. I know that the real wheels have more ornate detail, but you
work with what you have.
Thanks for reading,
Jim Pope
JPDenver
Denver, CO USA
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And moving on to the Main Control Console in the cabin.
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:o
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Thanks Martin.
Here are the pics of the assembly of the Skylight and Access Hatch.
The Hatch is the first piece to get planks. The kit calls for the use of walnut veneer on edge as
the caulking between planks.
Easy to do on the small portion. Interesting. Going to be a different story when I get to the full deck.
More to come.
Nice to have a shop in the basement rather than a shed like many of my counterparts in the UK.
Regards,
Happy New Year.
Jim
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So - a review of the build so far.
1. The kit (chinese-ebay) is very well engineered, but the build instructions suffer from
the need for translation of the translation. The laser cutting is spot-on.
2. The kit did not include any plans, so the set available by Davis Metcalf are invaluable.
3. The Model-Boats series of articles give a great bit of additional information and observations.
I find myself going back and reading and re-reading the article for details, then checking the manual.
At the beginning there is a good series of explanations and pictures. However near the end of the manual
it is almost like the author got tired of writing and so there are a number of procedures skipped. Like an explanation
of how they intended you to insert the windows.
So while you have a all the pieces nicely precut - you still have to find them on the sheets, and figure out exactly how they are meant
to be combined.
I was a little concerned that this build would be very simplistic as a most of the pieces are pre-cut.
However, since the pieces are all there, I can concentrate on the elegance of the assembly rather than the
process of cutting the parts out of sheets of ply and veneer.
The only fail so far is that some of the pieces are too thin and break when seperated from the sheets.
But things come back together as you need to laminate multiple layers which firms things up.
The other thing I have noticed is that I have some of the metal bits wrong. The photo-etch is all brass,
but some of the fixtures are supposed to be chrome. It was not until I had built all the control panels
that I figured that out. so - I am just going to try and determine the correct finish as we go.
Thanks for reading,
Jim
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Lovely job Jim. I think this will be a very impressive model. I can still remember reading the original Model Boats articles way back in a previous century, and thinking how lovely it would be to build and own that model. At the time it was a little beyond anything I had built (mainly plastic kits then) but perhaps I need to revisit Bluebird now I have a few more projects under my belt. Thanks for posting your build here.
Greg
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Thanks Greg.
I discovered this model pretty much by accident. And there was an instant attraction.
I find in the world of model making that I prefer the "assembly" process in stead of a "fabrication" process.
Except when it comes to the power plant and electronics. (remember I started as a "steam guy")
The kit relieves me of a lot of the "figure out the dimensions" part of building.
But I do find I spend a fair bit of time saying "where the heck is THAT part".
From what I can figure out, the manufacturer first designed this kit as a 1:12.
Then later re-scaled it to 1:18. I have not been able to find it still at the 1:12 scale,
but who can figure out the Chinese market? The manual and parts layout sheets were for
the 1:12 version, and when they produced the 1:18 version, the parts sheets got re-arranged to
accommodate the changes, and you get to figure it all out.
Unlike the major manufacturers, this kit appears to be in limited edition, last night I only saw
that there were 2 left available.
So - Still more to come - starting to assemble the main wheel-house.
Still a happy New Year.
Regards to all,
Jim
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The Wheel House -
Starts by laminating frame details onto the walls,
the window frames include a small extra piece of frame to support the "glass".
The kit builder also used the laser to mark where certain features go and also to
give you a hint as to bevels for when yu put things together.
However, as I said before - not a lot of explanation, so I spent a lot of time fitting
prior to glue. Even then I am not sure yet if I am getting it right.
After laminating each wall, the pieces got a base coat of water-based polyurethane as a "sanding sealer"
followed by multiple coats of Spar Varnish.
Then I fitted the windows getting them ready after the next coat.
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The final individual deck pieces are the steps -
2 pairs - 1 pair going to the bow and 1 to the stern.
also built the sliding panel for the roof of the wheel house.
Then I fitted the window panes to the various panels,
but decided to wait until I finish the coats of varnish.
The panes are nice and thick, and cut very close to size.only needed a little shaving from a side in able to fit.
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Now for the wheel-house.
First the deck.
The sub deck has pre-scored to mark the position of the planks.The kit includes planking - also precut. Assembly process calls for the use
of walnut veneer as caulking.
All of my models have a specific piece of inlay as a kind of "signature".
The checkerboard strip somewhere on the deck.
I decided to put it on the floor of the wheelhouse.
While applying the planks, I notices that the deck had developed a slight warp.
To combat this I put two beams under the floor to pull it back flat.
Then I applied the sealer and a couple coats of varnish.
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The wheel house fit together rather well.
The side walls have a sliding door. The kit used rather flimsy
pieces for the slots so I substituted some small brass "U" channel.
Then I adopted the same strategy for the "moon roof".
But - I found that the walls ended up being a larger in circumference by about 1/32nd of an inch on all sides.
but that was enough to throw off the roof. So so I put in an insert in the roof.
Some Pics:
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and a few more.
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COOLING SYSTEM
Do I need one?
As a Steam Guy, I never had to worry about a cooling pump and related stuff.
So the kit included a drive train that included 2 - 6V Brushed Motors - 500 series size.
The only markings on them is the name Johnson, no models numbers.
They also included a pump and tubing and copper coils.
Do I need the pump?
I am thinking that at "scale speed" this craft is not speed boat.
(I am not going to tow a water skiing Barbie Doll behind it.)
So When do you need a cooling system?
Where is the best place for inlet? For outlet?
Does the pump work best "pushing" the water thru the motor coils?(In front of the coils)
Or "pulling" the water thru the coils?
Where do you pull power from? Just tap off the Motor leads?
or run it continuous.
What happens if you run off the motor leads and you put it in reverse?
Do you just not worry about it because it is only for a short time?
Am I over thinking this?
I look forward to my readers comments and expertise in this matter.
Thanks for reading.
Stay Safe
Jim Pope
JPDenver
Denver, Colorado USA
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Jim, I would be very surprised if a model like this needed water cooling - and if it did, there is likely something amiss with the motor/speed controller/propeller combination. That said, if you want to fit it, I would run a separate supply from the battery to the pump, which should be fairly close to the water inlet and "push" the water through the cooling system. Water inlets are normally just behind the propeller to help push the water round the system, but if that is a self priming pump then that is less important. (To see if it is self priming, set it up with a power supply and a short length of tube on the inlet dangling into a bowl of water. Switch it on and if the water starts flowing, it's self priming.) if you want to be clever you can fit a digital switch to the pump supply that lets you turn the cooling on and off while afloat (and stops the pump running continuously whether the boat is in the water or not). The outlet can go anywhere, but ideally somewhere that the real boat has an outlet. If there are exhausts in the transom, these are a suitable outlet.
But as I said, it really shouldn't need it.
Coming along very nicely, I am a sucker for varnished mahogany! :-))
Greg
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Thanks for your reply Greg.
I was beginning to think that I did not have an interesting thread,
as most of the activity on this forum seems
to be around the Fairey Crafts and their variants.
I agree that the cooling pump seems a bit of overkill.
So I decided to not use the pump (save it for a Chris Craft coming up)
but I am going to put the coils around the motors to act as a "Heat Sink".
(Keeping the vents open to airflow of course)
I am switching between Decking and Hull, waiting of a little warmer weather to paint the
hull (30 - 40 degrees F outside these days)
So I worked on the pre-paint touches, like portholes.
Thanks for reading.
Jim
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Keep up the good work. A silent majority is normal. I lurk in the background on Mayhem and enjoy all the builds. :-))
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I was beginning to think that I did not have an interesting thread,
You have over 2,000 "views" Jim - I can assure you that's not all me!
:-))
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Hi Jim
Whilst I'm firmly in the Fairey camp :-) I often read your thread. Like most other folks I don't say anything unless I've got something worthwhile or relevant to say.
Like Greg I would say that cooling is not required.
Chris
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Another quiet lurker her Jim :embarrassed:
Re the cooling for the motors. You said you are going to fit the cooling coils onto the motors anyway, so if you find that things are getting warmer than you are happy with, you can always add the fitting, pump etc and connect them up. If you don't find you need them, then there's no issue with them being on there.
Keep up the excellent work.
Will
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Thanks to all for the cheering up. :-) Chalk it up to isolation.
Back to the build.
Working on prepping the hull for painting.
Getting the power plants fitted.
Started with the shafts and stuffing tubes.
It took a while to get the angles right.
I also had to make a choice. The kit shipped with two rudders.
and the article and plans show two as well, UNTIL -
you read the whole article and see where Dave Metcalf talks
about making the initial mistake of putting two, only to have the
owner of the Bluebird call his attention to the fact that there was only one rudder.
Dave went thru the process of filling the dual holes and re-drilling for a single.
I decided to avoid the process of correcting the mistake in the first place
and just drill the single hole, only to have it come out the bottom about an 1/8th inch off.
Darn it. >>:-(
So here are pics of today's activities.
Thanks for reading.Jim
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Hi jpdenver;
I have read your thread of water cooling for your scale ship today.
And like other comments on this point, I don't think it necessary to add the water cooling to your ship.
Because you may I suppose not let her sail so fast as to run the motor at higher speed/revolution like speed boats.
The following pics are small 55cm cabin cruiser equipped with a 540 class motor with a hand- made water cooling coil
to cope with over-heat tendency, especially in summer.
The system contributed successfully and largely to cool the motor.
For your information as follows;
1;hand-made coil
2;brass base for the coil to effectively release the heat
3;attach the motor
4;overall view
5;water outlet
6;water inlet
7;cooling water is seen on the portside.. can you see that...? :embarrassed:
8;Sailing without fear of over-heat even in the mid-summer at full speed! %%
Please enjoy the build without fear of over-heat anxiety.
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Hi been there as well finding the rudder hole slightly off centre. Bearing in mind my own mistakes I now drill smaller holes and move them across with a round file.
Made about 30+ model boats and yachts now and I know how to hide my errors! Interesting when I restore someone elses build and see how much filler lurks beneath the paint and a careful inspection reveals quite a lot of errors. So I don't feel too bad about my own mistakes.
However when I see a varnished planked hull where all the planks are visible then I know I am looking at expertise!
All the best
Roy
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Thanks again for all the comments. Made a few decisions.
1. no pump, just coils to aid cooling (actually I made that decision yesterday).2. do not sweat the 1/8 inch on the rudder. It is still in line with the keel,
just in line with one side rather than the dead center.
I can only see the move attempt making a bigger mess.
(and the rudder is underwater anyway).
So that being settled, I finished epoxying the stuffing tubes in place along with
the Prop Brackets ( if that is what they are called). It took a little adjusting to
get the shafts straight and rotating easy.
The prop shafts and motor shafts line up pretty well. But once the couplings are
added I may need to shim up the motor mounts to align everything.
I should be able to get the hull finally ready to paint by Friday - the weather is
supposed to be sunny and over 50F.
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So I have another decision to make, and opinions are welcome.
The decks, and planks, and caulk.
The decks on the Bluebird are teak. The kit does a great job of providing a
sub-deck with lines traced (low power laser).
Then they give you the planks pre-cut, with the caulk space accounted for.
Then for caulk, they give a sheet of walnut veneer. The builder is expected to
cut strips out of the sheet and place the strips vertically between planks.
Once the glue dries, and the sanding is over, the results are that the caulk strips
are slightly mottled in color.
I have one set finished with top coats, and I am not sure.
I have planked other decks with small styrene strips and find that these give a very crisp edge.
There are a number of deck surfaces to be done.
and I have done the smaller parts with the veneer,
but I am thinking of doing the large sections with the styrene strips.
So - opinions?
Thanks for reading,
Jim
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Yes, you are correct, caulking when Bluebird was built would typically have been black which might have weathered to a very dark grey. End on wood grain doesn't really look right.
Colin
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Colin,
I agree that the styrene strips look better.
After a couple of coats of finish, the smaller pieces look ok,
but do not have the crisp look of the black.
So I will be using the black strips on the larger decks.
I did the rear deck, then attached the side "mouldings" on it.
Almost ready for finish application.
Thanks for reading.
Jim
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Ar the same time I located the color border on the hull for the red anti-fouling and the white.
Used automotive spray paint, very fast drying.
I will add a black stripe at the border, and then a couple of coats of clear.
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The Rear Deck.
It is raised up on a platform.
On the real Bluebird that is over the owner's cabin.
On the model, the deck platform is removable.
It fits over a "collar" mounted to the deck.
All of this I figured out by playing:
"What the heck is this for?" with the
remaining pieces of the kit.
Some Pics:
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I started to play with the electrical side of all this.
Question:
Do all 6 volt brushed motors squeal like a pig?
The noise seems to be electrical in nature, independent of the actual movement.Any way around this?
Try another brand of motor?
Thanks for any advice.
Jim
-
OK,
I tried a better ESC. No more pigs.
Can you run two motors off one ESC?
Thought I would ask before I tired it.
I would assume that the current maximums would have to be tracked.
Options?
Jim
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Hullo Jim.......please, I have just about ZERO knowledge of electronics, however understand a little of control circuitry for Servo Control valves as used in hydraulic circuits in full size Warship Missile Launchers <*< & Gun mounts :-X
A part of the PIG Noise you describe is I believe from the square wave pulsation voltage being shunted on and off at a reasonable frequency across the face of the carbon brushes & the communtator segments
I am sure one of our Electronic savy members [DaveM] will correct me or and explain why quality ESC are less prone to this noise [I have a number of ACTion speed/direction controllers for twin motors that do not display any real level of this noise you describe]
Derek
-
Derek,
Thanks for the comments. And the support and guidance over the past few years.
I forget that most of the others on here are in the UK and fast asleep while I am
sitting here with my wife watching TV and posting.
I believe it to be tomorrow morning down under in your neighborhood.
I really do not have the grasp of all the pieces of the various motor choices.
Most of my crafts are "slow and steady" rather than speed boats. Steam does that.
So now that I am trying my hand at electric drives, I can not just reach out and pick up
a valve or machine a piece I need.
Where I get lost is in the area of specifications.
What are the relevance of "Turns" when it comes to motors?
I get the 6 and 12 Volt thing, and I understand current draw (somewhat).
but picking the right ESC and matching the operational settings seems to be elusive.
More to come,
Jim
-
The build so far.
The hull is finished and painted. Not the greatest job, a few uneven spots, but
as I needed to paint outside and the last three days were above 60F and we areexpecting the temp to dip below 30F for the next weeks, well - I painted it.
I used automotive paint - red below, white above and then a couple of coats of clear.
This allowed me to start the planning of placement of the internals of the craft.
Which led me to the realization that I had to plan the decks and cabin assembly
in such a way as to allow access for repair.
The instructions in the kit are now focusing on the railings, but left out all the details
on the attaching of decks or any other advice.
I find that Dave Metcalf has much better details in his article. It is plain to see that the
kit manufacturer used Dave's drawings as the basis for their design, as some of the mistakes
he made show up in the kit design. Dave's articles carry the corrections but the kit builder missed them.
Things they missed -
1. The number of rudders.
2. The number of stanchions on the rear deck.and when it comes to the rear deck, the kit builders made it to slide over a "collar",
but totally blew it as all the railings would get in the way.
The railings connect the upper to the lower rear decks.
So - After numerous dry runs, I decided that I would make it so the cabin
would be removable for access to the battery and switches etc.
And then I added strategically placed blocks of wood that will allow me to hold the decks down
with small screws and still be removable if access is needed for repair.
So here are some pics of my explorations into deck building.
-
And a few more to get caught up to date.
-
Hi Jim,
I have enjoyed reading through your build so far. I am a newbie to this forum and only recently getting back to refurbishing my 26 year old Lesro Javelin wooden speedboat. My one and only build that’s been languishing in my parents attic for decades.
I’m enjoying seeing people like yourself explaining their build issues and resolving them with advice on here. I’ve never attempted anything like this with planking but it’s great to see!
Out of interest am I correct in thinking the “caulk” between the planks ended up as black styrene strips? I am considering incorporating some styrene on my boat but am concerned about bonding it effectively.
-
Hi Stu,
Welcome to the forum. I am a relative newbe here too. (6 yrs or so)
So I agree that there are many "tricks of the trade"
Yes - It ended up being the Styrene Strips. I left the lighter Veneer strips in place on the smaller decks.
I am not so "xxxxx" as to rip all that apart just so everything is the same.
When it comes to planking, I have my way of doing it which has worked for me.But understand that Denver Colorado is "high desert" with no humidity. (less than 50% most of the year).When I buy a kit, I let it sit for at least 6 months to dry out.
So - For deck planking.
1. I use a harder type of wood if not in a kit. Here we have Basswood, which I am told is similar to Lime. as opposed to something like balsa.
2. If not using a "caulk" - I put on a light coat of sanding sealer - (actually I use a water based poly) on each plank. then I use a black heavy duty "sharpie" pen on each edge.
3. If using a caulk, I use styrene strips - http://www.mackproductsrc.com (http://www.mackproductsrc.com) look in accessories. I am sure someone else in the UK sells them, they come in both black and white.
4. Here is where I differ from others - I use a "Medium - Gap Filling CA glue" and I have at hand some pointed tweezers that are very good at
keeping things down - the medium ca glue takes a little bit to set. I do not use any accelerator.
5. After finishing the gluing I let it sit - under weight - for 24 hours.
6. Then I sand. If the styrene is higher than the planks, I use 80grit to get started, then 120, then 180. Finally 320 when I get to the deck, just to
remove any glue marks.
7. Then - if not already sealed, I apply the "sanding sealer" - And use a 1000 grit scotchbrite pad to scuff.
8. Finally I apply REAL SPAR VARNISH. I get mine from a boat supplier on the east coast. It is not a urethane product, takes up to 48 hours to full set. Scuff with the pad, apply another coat or two.
And finally - let the thing set as the finish can be still soft for up to a week.
oh - and use a "tack cloth".
So far this has worked well for me. (But your mileage may vary.)
More to come.
Regards to all,
Jim Pope
Denver, CO USA
-
So the next thing on my list is to finish the all the internal wiring.
For some reason, kits seem to always leave out lights.
So I have three areas of lighting to plan.
1. The pilot house. Needs the navigational lights on the sides.
and also diffuse lighting inside. You can not see out the windows at night if you are too bright inside.
2. The Masts need lights. and I need to fit the wires and some type connection near the mast.
3. Cabin lights. These need to light the fore and aft cabins, via the portholes. but since there are no
cabin interiors, just the portholes, I am going to place some type of frosted paper just inside each.
that will diffuse the light, and you won't see just empty frames.
I am still waiting on one ESC, but the wire harness is ready for it. I am just using a "Y"harness off the
receiver. I can only fit a single battery pack in the space, I picked a 5000MAH NiMH pack. 7.4 volts.
I have a separate voltage regulator to supply power to the receiver and the LEDs.
I blocked the power lead from the ESCs and added two switches.
One for the receiver, one for the ESCs.
Pics.
-
Well, that was a happy half hour, reading through this thread. To say I am impressed is an understatement. This build is simply superb. Thank you so much for posting all this and keep up the magnificent work.
-
Hi Stu,
Welcome to the forum. I am a relative newbe here too. (6 yrs or so)
So I agree that there are many "tricks of the trade"
Yes - It ended up being the Styrene Strips. I left the lighter Veneer strips in place on the smaller decks.
I am not so "xxxxx" as to rip all that apart just so everything is the same.
When it comes to planking, I have my way of doing it which has worked for me.But understand that Denver Colorado is "high desert" with no humidity. (less than 50% most of the year).When I buy a kit, I let it sit for at least 6 months to dry out.
So - For deck planking.
1. I use a harder type of wood if not in a kit. Here we have Basswood, which I am told is similar to Lime. as opposed to something like balsa.
2. If not using a "caulk" - I put on a light coat of sanding sealer - (actually I use a water based poly) on each plank. then I use a black heavy duty "sharpie" pen on each edge.
3. If using a caulk, I use styrene strips - http://www.mackproductsrc.com (http://www.mackproductsrc.com) look in accessories. I am sure someone else in the UK sells them, they come in both black and white.
4. Here is where I differ from others - I use a "Medium - Gap Filling CA glue" and I have at hand some pointed tweezers that are very good at
keeping things down - the medium ca glue takes a little bit to set. I do not use any accelerator.
5. After finishing the gluing I let it sit - under weight - for 24 hours.
6. Then I sand. If the styrene is higher than the planks, I use 80grit to get started, then 120, then 180. Finally 320 when I get to the deck, just to
remove any glue marks.
7. Then - if not already sealed, I apply the "sanding sealer" - And use a 1000 grit scotchbrite pad to scuff.
8. Finally I apply REAL SPAR VARNISH. I get mine from a boat supplier on the east coast. It is not a urethane product, takes up to 48 hours to full set. Scuff with the pad, apply another coat or two.
And finally - let the thing set as the finish can be still soft for up to a week.
oh - and use a "tack cloth".
So far this has worked well for me. (But your mileage may vary.)
More to come.
Regards to all,
Jim Pope
Denver, CO USA
Hi Jim,
Thanks for your in depth reply and top tips! Yours is a bit different to my low altitude, high humidity existence here in England!
I have found this forum very therapeutic, especially with our Lockdown 3.0 here in UK. It’s great to see all these projects around the globe. Thanks again for all your pictures and explanations. It’s honestly helping bring some personal focus to distract from the current limbo we seem to be in. At least we have you guys and plenty of online boat bits shops!
Stu
-
Thanks again for all the kind comments.
I am still in the dark about how to keep the "pig squeals" away.
I am all trial and error.
All my boats are slow - on purpose. Again - Steam Power tends to do that.
The other major factor is poor eye-hand coordination.
Fast boats and I do not run well together.
They end up flipped. I end up embarrassed.
Those of you that have seen some of my steam builds over the last 6 years or so may remember
that I got into this hobby "sideways" -
I wanted to learn about building steam engines. I determined that there were basically three types
- Those that sat on a table, those that ran on a track, and those that were put in a vehicle. I do not have a lot of table space. My wife owns the garden - And locomotives take a long time to build.
So that left vehicles. - and boats seemed like a good idea.
Colorado does not seem to be well known for water. but we do have a few lakes and reservoirs.
I located a local RC Club and started going to meetings - and after a year somebody told me I needed to actually get a boat!
My first was a Krick Borkum. and the rest is history.
SO this brings me around to electric power, ESC and Motor selection, and how to match the parts up.
One part that eludes me is the the concept of TURNS. and how they apply in the equation.
I have seemingly made the mistake of buying "cheap-$%^" from Ebay-China. (Qty3 - 6V ESC for $20)
They basically seem to be an ON/OFF switch.
I also had a unit from Horizon Hobbies - ($40) that was perhaps better made, in that the Pig Squeal went away.
So I ordered couple more. They come tomorrow.
But - What is background on all this - what makes one better than the other when we are talking about
"cruising" rather than "racing"?
Thanks again for reading my thread. If there is a thread somewhere that really lays out the answers to my electric questions
I would appreciate a link. Otherwise perhaps a condensed version here would help others as well.
Be Well, Stay Safe.
More to come from a chilly Colorado.
Regards to All.
Jim (and the girls)
-
Well, that was a happy half hour, reading through this thread. To say I am impressed is an understatement. This build is simply superb. Thank you so much for posting all this and keep up the magnificent work.
I have to agree - Just been catching up Jim and its looking amazing!
-
You have probably seen it already, but I’ve come across this guide to all things brushless on the forum. It’s helped me albeit I’ve already got my motor and esc as I copied the setup of the Proboat type kits (and I’ve probably gone overboard for my needs!)
If you need specific info maybe ask the question in that section and you may get more replies?
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,13538.0.html (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,13538.0.html)
Stu
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Thanks Stu.
After venting my frustration I found a bunch of info here too.
So - never mind. Back to building.
I got the second ESC from Amazon today and finished up the electrical wiring.
It's a Horizon Hobby Dynamite.
On to the ForeDeck.
First I played with mocking up some placement of the rear deck parts.
Just checking how they look.
You only get to glue once.
-
Some more observations.
When I started this build, I thought that perhaps it would turn out to be an "easy" 2-3 months.
Instead, I found a kit that was very well put together up to a point.
The laser cutting is superb.
Until you get to the really small pieces where the cuts are so fine that the grain of the wood (sapele)
is not strong enough to keep the piece together.
From what I can see in the manual (that I translated for them) is that the original design was at 1:12.
Then the kit manufacturer re-scaled the kit to 1:18. That is the kit they are selling now. (and the one I bought).
When they re-scaled, the parts layout changed from the one documented in the manual. And a few pieces were left off,
or not included in the design. The manual, after a discussion of the basics of laying the deck planks, pretty much fades
away to "you figure it out - look at the pictures".
So - that is where I am now - figuring it out.
and where the initial build went pretty fast, it almost felt like I was "cheating".
So at the 75% point in the build, I am actually having more fun figuring out the "fiddly bits"
The fact that the decks have a sub-base and laser cut planks that match up with the base have been a godsend.
I would not like to have to cut the planks on the curve. I see blood and stuck fingers in going that route.
What was not evident is the need for accessibility of the internals of the hull.
Little things like - "Where the heck do I put the battery?" and "OK- now how do I get it in and out?"
If I had just gone blindly ahead, I would have found that in order to access the rear deck hold area -
with all the electronics, I would have needed to remove (destroy) the railings that are attached to
both the main deck and the upper area.
Investigating this leads me to have to consider the overall construction.
So I designed the rear deck to slide back and off. This impacts the rub-rail placement.
Also some of the wood decorative pieces will need to be placed so that other pieces can move
without tearing them up.
It is while planning all this that I came to the conclusion that the deck was just about 1/8 inch too narrow.
The rub rail did not protrude past the sides, and then I found that wood was not included for the rub-rail that runs
forward of the wheelhouse under the portholes.
I also find that I do not have a clear picture or diagram of the stern. Most pictures and drawings are side views.
So you can see where the fun begins. If I was just using the manual provided with the kit, I would probably deviate from
accuracy a lot. The fact that I went to the trouble to buy Dave Metcalf's Drawings, and tracked down a copy of the article (Thanks Colin)
as well as bought a copy of the book on the Bluebird - All of these together are allowing me to figure it out.
So I no longer feel like I have cheated, no more than staring with a GRP hull. I have practiced my meager skills in planking a frame,
kept up my strength by sanding down all the drips in the glass and epoxy (or most of them!) and felt the minor embarrassment from seeing
the occasional dimple in my hull after the paint application. <:(
BUT - I am having "fun" - (ok, a strange definition of the term) - figuring out the fiddly bits.
The little accents that make the model come alive.
The little brass connection points for the foul weather shields on the wheelhouse.
Adding LED's for interior lighting, masts, and navigation.
Comparing the real-life drawings and pictures to see how close I can get.
One of the things I will probably NOT do is to be to obsessive over Bright Brass vs Chrome.
We have all seen the struggle to create an accurate chrome-look.
I have researched plating my own chrome pieces. I have come to the conclusion that
it is beyond where I want to go right now.
I do not know air-brushing. perhaps I should take some time next summer to learn.
However for now I will take it piece by piece as to whether or not to try to paint a piece
of shiny brass to a less-than excellent piece of painted chrome.
So - please be kind if you see that I have deviated from the original color-scheme of the Bluebird. :embarrassed:
Back to working on the Fore-deck.
Here are a few pics of the work I did yesterday while not watching the Super-Bowl.
Thanks for reading.Hope you enjoy my narrative.
Comments welcome.
Regards to all,
Stay safe, get vaccinated, wear a mask, drink more beer.
Jim Pope
JPDenver
Denver, Colorado USA
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Some really interesting comments there Jim. Thanks for sharing them with us. Just goes to prove that kit manufacturers don't get everything right and that builder input is stil essential to deliver the model you really want!
Colin
-
Colin,
Again, I thank you for making the copies of the article available. It has been a lifesaver.
I want everyone to know that I really like this build.
No regrets at all.
As a matter of fact, the extreme amount of supplied laser cuts will probably spoil me as both of myfuture kits in the queue are Dumas Chris Crafts, and much more work for planking and deck work is expected.
It stated as a "paint by number" kit, but has now taken on a much more Engineer - cut - fit - glue - finish type of project.
Later,
Jim
-
Finished up the foredeck planking.
Then weighted it down over a rod in order to form to the curve of the deck while the glue dried.
While that sits overnight I went on to add some diffuser (frosted paper) in front of the portholes.
Also added some to the Aft deck too.
More to come.
Jim
-
Wow, that frosted paper technique looks good - one more thing to add to the good ideas book :-))
Ray.
-
Fore Deck.
I took the finished deck and used a little plane to shave off the
styrene that was above the surface.
Then I coated top and underside with sealer.
Next was the process of fitting the edging to the assembled deck.
and of course putting it on the bow to see how she will look.
More to come.
Jim
-
Rub Rail
As I said earlier, the width of the rear deck did not present well when it came to the
rub rail. It did not actually extend out each side to rub on anything.
So I added a small piece of mahogany (from an earlier project - never throw anything away)
to each side of the rear deck.
Then I added the front pieces of rail under the portholes to match the actual boat.
These had been omitted by the kit manufacturer.
That's about it for today. My wife got an appointment for her first covid shot.
Need to drive her over to the clinic. My turn soon - I hope.
Later,Jim
-
It has taken a while to get the fore-deck to a point where I can attach the outer rim.
While that was setting up, I attached more of the fiddly-bits to the wheel-house.
Almost ready for a float test.
More to come,
Jim
-
Nice work. I also like the foam strip with all your useful tools stuck into it. What a handy set up.
-
Thanks Stu,
The foam comes in handy when I just need to put something where I can find it quickly during an assembly.
I finally got the fore-deck looking like I wanted it.
Applied a coast of varnish, and set it in place to dry.
When it sets up I will do the first float test to see where we are in the tub.
In the meantime - more fiddly-bits to work on. Time to start on the railings and screens.
More to come.
Jim
-
Float Test.
Dropped a battery in place and filled up the guest tub.
I put all the fiddly-bits in a container on the fore-deck right in front of the wheel house.
I am making the assumption that the parts will be evenly distributed over the craft, so
putting them over the center is a good estimate.
Put the Bluebird in the water. Lo and Behold - She Floats!!
And pretty level at that. Right where the plans say she should be.
Only took a couple of 50Cal lead balls to trim her.
So I will be packing her bow with air bags and foam.
Right now she displaces 6lb 3oz.
More to come.
Jim
-
Good to see her afloat and your planking looks lovely :-)
Regards,
Ray.
-
Thanks Capt.
Now that I had determined if there was a need for ballast,
I felt comfortable packing the bow with air bags.
Added a couple of 50cal lead balls to compartment before Ifilled it up.
Tomorrow I will put another coat on the fore and aft decks.
Regards to all,
Jim
-
So now I am starting to finish up all the extra pieces.
The mast and rigging are started.
I added some rope to the bumpers.
and then also worked on the life rings, lashing rope to the outside.
-
Now that the foredeck has been positioned,
I worked on fitting the stairs.
The stairs were assembled way back at the beginning of the build,
when I was actually following the manual.
When I started to fit them in place, I see that the top step is
slightly tilted. and both steps are symmetrical in this way.
So I am not sure if it is by design or a misstep.
Since the wheelhouse needs to be removable, I needed to mind the
clearances. So the forward steps are attached to the hull, and then
the rear steps are actually attached to the wheelhouse and stay with it when removed.
More to come,
Jim
-
Finishing up the trim pieces.
I added the bow hardware, the kit had plastic pulleys - I put in some of my own.
Then I paid attention to the stern.
The trim there was not complete in the kit.
So I fashioned some approximations based upon the pictures in the book.
I am not completely satisfied, and my take them off for a re-do later.
-
Coming along very nicely Jim. And very quickly. A kit like that would probably take me most of a year!
Greg
-
Greg,
Thanks for the observation.
I agree that the build is progressing at a fast pace.
Up to now.
I think that what has contributed greatly to my speed is the fact that
EVERY piece of wood - except for the hull planking - was laser cut.
Down to the individual pieces used for window framing, and the little pieces that would normally be
cut from "bundles" of provided wood. Since I did not have to take time to measure/cut things like the
deck planking or the other intricate parts, I was able to move faster than usual.
However, I can also see where the speed of assembly had a cost. The kit builders provided a great service in the
supply side, but the process of "building blindly" without better actual measurements (like drawings) allowed me to make some
mistakes. For example - the stern is about 1/8 inch too wide. Normally this might not be an issue, but the precut trim pieces
no longer fit correctly, and required some "padding". As I have remarked previously, The documentation does great up to the
point of planking the decks, but falls short on the finishing touches.
So now I need to think again. Measure and plan and craft rather than just assemble.
Which is all good.
Would I recommend this kit to others? If you are experienced, and take the time to study the
plans from Dave Metcalf, and read the Book. And the article. I think you will be greatly appreciative of
the laser-cut parts.
I have enjoyed this build. I kind of wish I had a "build log" from others to reference.
Which I guess is why I am doing this log. So that if anyone wants to try their hand
then perhaps they can avoid some of the minor frustrations, and end up with an enjoyable model.
So - back to the build.
Thanks for reading,
Jim Pope
JPDenver
Denver, CO USA.
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I’m still enjoying this build! Very tidy wiring inside. Great detail and quality of finish looks great to me. I reckon from what you’ve said about reading about the ship this is modeled on (sound like your research has helped greatly) that you’ve turned an ok kit into a much more accurate version.
I feel very inadequate but watch with interest!
-
Thanks Stu.
I would not depreciate your own skills at building. I think all of us in this hobby tend to be
cautious about boasting too much. Mostly (in my case) because if you change the camera angle,
you can see the flaws in the hull, or the pits in the paint, or the fact that the brass pieces should be chrome.
I am not a historian. I have not seen the movie "Dunkirk" yet either. I stumbled on this model while on e-bay one night.
and something just struck me. I do not know if you can quantify how certain boats just "click" in your brain.
I get the most "highs" from seeing them on the water, cruising at scale speed, cutting thru the ripples on the pond.
Being a "steamer" I tend to for the slower cruiser types as opposed to racing fast electric models.
Obviously, all can see that Fairey models strike a similar chord in the enthusiasts represented in this forum. Since I grew
up in the mid-west of the USA, I gravitate to Chris-Crafts. My family had a summer house on a lake in Wisconsin called Lake Geneva.
I spent many summers there, and we had a Chris-Craft Utility. My uncle across the lake had a Chris-Craft Barrel Back. All my friends had
similar boats, and the parties we had in the middle of the lake are some of my fondest memories. Specially on the 4th of July when some of the
largest fireworks displays in the country erupted over our heads while we floated, tethered together.
SO - I am starting to move on to the railings and deck hardware.
I have the pre-painting done, and will post some pics on the process of assembling the pieces later today.
Regards to all,Stay safe,
Jim
-
Railings -
Observations:The kit included all the stanchions, and laser-cut wood to form the small blocks at the deck,
along with the photo-etched brass plates.
The railings are provided in two parts, one with holes, and one without.
The border trim on the deck has also been laser pre-drilled as well.
The only issue I have found is that when the kit makers re-sized the kit from 1:12 to 1:18,
they did not reduce the size of the holes in the wood or metal parts, while the stanchions are smaller.
So the various parts slip and fall off where they are supposed to be.
ARGHH.
To fix this I mounted the PE brass to the small wood "pedestals" using epoxy.
I allowed the holes to fill in.
When dry, I re-drilled the holes the correct size and mounted them on the end of the stanchions.
I used a brass rod thru the center holes on the stanchions to align everything.
Then I painted the bases to match the white on the stanchions.
While these cured, I laminated the top rails, and after sanding, added coats of varnish.
-
Hi Jim
Great detailing on your build. And coming along at a pace.
I've feeling I've seen the 1:1 'Bluebird of Chelsea', I'm close to the Thames and saw the 'little ships' cruise up in convoy a couple of years ago. Very emotional to see them cruising together.
Saw your comments about remembering the Chris Crafts on the lake too. My interest in the Riva Aquarama come from spending my 20s working in the Greek Islands, saw all manner of beautiful boats, but the Aquarama just stood out for me.
Look forward to seeing Bluebird afloat.
David.
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I have to say tis is a great Kit, and you build blog is excellent, the manufacturers would be wise to take advantage of it. Keep up the excellent work and I have learned a few tips as I have followed this thread :-))
-
Phil and David,
Thanks for the observations.
I do not want to come off like I regret anything about this kit.
The kit was produced in a very limited quantity. I think there are still 2 available of ebay.
As I am inherently lazy, the amount of very accurate laser cutting was what appealed to me.
without the pre-cut pieces, I think my frustration level would have climbed to new heights.
Would I recommend this kit to others? Yes. But you also need to supplement with the "Article" and Dave Metcalfs drawings.
Oh yeah - bookmark this thread! {-)
Back to the build -
Time to mount the railings.
I used 15 min epoxy to give me adequate working time.
This allowed me to fumble around and get the pieces all interconnected.
I used a lot of masking tape strips. and everything tightened up pretty fast.
Here are the pics -
Thanks for reading.
Regards,
Jim
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Hi Jim;
You really did a very good job over the railing and stanchion planting works.
Generally speaking,as you know ,planting many stanchions as well as railing are very difficult and troublesome
if intended to do neatly. :-)) %%
And good railing work may be an eye-catcher in your whole model of the Bluebird of Chelesa.!!
Backerther
-
Thanks Backerther,
The next part will be all the wire mesh panels.
Something the kit manufacturer totally ignored.
I found some brass mesh I think will work, but now I need to
get my hands on the wire to be used for the frames.
I also need to talk the boss into sewing the canvas panels for the aft deck.
In the meantime - more fiddly bits. The railings need extended from the upper decks down to
the lower sections by the doors of the wheelhouse.
The clearance between all the pieces is becoming a concern,
I need to be able to lift out the wheelhouse in order to load batteries and set switches.
So the proximity of the stairs and the railings needs special attention.
So more to come - but it may be a couple of days before I post again.
Regards to all,
Jim
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Wow. A somewhat tedious amount of modification to get it all to fit! Looks great with all the railings on. Keep at it and look forward to the pictures soon!
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Stu -
The tedious part is just beginning - I think. {:-{
I also have to make 22 screens for the lower openings on the railings.
Started by laminating some pieces of scrap wood together.
Finishing with a layer of graph paper - 1/10th inch squares.
Then I laid out the outlines of the various screens - two have a raised section for bollards.
Drilled holes for short pegs made from a piece of brass rod.
Then I bent a piece of brass rod around the pegs, and soldered the ends.
To that rectangle I attached a piece of brass screen.
I removed some of the strands and bent others over the frame.
The final view is the test fitting in the space.
21 to go, I will paint them white.
At the same time I need to finish up the railings and paint the middle wire too.
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I took an afternoon to watch the movie - "Dunkirk"
It always amazes me how little the USA has focused on WWII and
especially on the European Theater of Operations.
I did not know anything of the Little Ships and Dunkirk prior to starting this build.
Back to work,
Finished up the initial install of railings.
I worked on the transitions from one deck to another.
More to come -
Regards,
Jim
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There are a lot of inaccuracies in that film. I was quite disappointed with it really. Artistry won out over reality.
Colin
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Colin,
I actually learned more about Dunkirk from reading the book about the Bluebird.
I consider the movie at best to be a "vignette" or the story of just one boat.
The interesting thing was seeing the interior of the boat and its general
resemblance to the Bluebird.
I finished up the railings.
Now back to the screens.
More to come,
Jim
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That’s some level of detail on the railings and screens! Looking good.
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Yes, excellent work on a very attractive subject.
Colin
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Screens - Lots of them.
24 to be exact.
After fitting the screens,
I painted them with a coat or three of Gloss White Automotive.
Then put them in place and held them by bending over the wires and trimming.
Thanks for reading.
Jim
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Hi Jim;
You did a very good job for such a tedious and time-consuming work.!!Looks very nice this time as well.! :-))
Generally speaking, making a model ship takes a huge amount of time to make comparatively many parts and/or
their components, doesn't it?? {:-{
Backerther
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A great effort - I imagine your eyes need a break. %%
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Finished up the Rear Deck Screens.
Then tested the removal of the rear deck assembly.
Removing the 2 screws at the stern allows the complete rear portion
to be slid out and removed.
Then I bribed my boss into sewing some pieces of canvas for the
wind-screens on the rear deck.
Then I finished up the day by mounting the mast and rigging,
More to come.
Jim
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Stitched the windscreens to the railings.
Started to add some of the deck features.
Next step is to add all the various boxes and furniture
but since we are expecting up to 30 inches of snow this weekend,
I may be busy.
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It’s such a beautifully and accurately detailed model that you are building. Going beyond the kit with your accuracy I believe.
I hadn’t even heard of Bluebird until I saw your posts I’m shocked to say and I’m only a few miles from the River Thames near London!
Thanks for educating me.
It’s a bit windy here at the moment but milder than your neck of the woods.
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Beautiful job Jim the attention to detail is stunning :-))
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You can be justly proud of how this build is turning out :-))
Ray.
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Thanks Stu, Mark and Ray,
I am now moving from the typical kit build to a near-scratch build.
Or as I like to put it - all the fiddly bits.
I probably could not have done 1/2 as good a job on this craft without the
excellent article and drawings by Dave Metcalf in Model Boats back in the early '90s.
Many thanks again to Colin Bishop for providing the archive.
I am moving to the stern to start the fabrication of the davits, masts and of course - more fiddly bits.
Thanks for the comments,Stay safe, get your shots, wear a mask,
Regards to all,
Jim Pope
Denver, CO USA
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While waiting for finish to dry on masts,
I attached the deck furniture.
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Still Winter here.
One week until "Spring?"
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Wow! No excuse but to keep building? Or do you have to clear a path outside! Snowshoes at the ready..
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Cherry has started to blossom here in Tokyo with 19 degrees C of outside temperature.
Spring is coming surely.
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No need to cut a path. The small house in the back is my wife's garden shed.
Doubles as a playhouse for the grandkids when they are able to visit.
My shop is in two places, the machine shop is in the garage - Too cold for now.
The heater in there just keeps the temp a little above freezing.
The boatworks is in the basement. Right next to the furnace room. All mine. No Sharing. ok2
20F (-6C) today. Denver is basically closed, 24" of very wet snow came down yesterday.
Technically the whole state is in a severe drought. So any moisture is welcome.
The mountains got 4 feet. All of our water comes from water in the snow in the mountains.
So more snow - means the reservoirs (lakes) will fill up and our ponds down here in town will too.
Now - if we can only get all the Canadian Geese to go HOME - the water we sail on will not leave so much slime on our hulls. >>:-(
I worked a little on the name plaques that hang on the railings up at the bow.
The ones provided in the kit were supposed to be wood, with photo-etched letters.
That was a fail. The PE letters were so thin and flimsy that they were impossible to work with.
I tried to paint the name on the wood, and that was a fail too.
So I decided to switch to a brass plaque with a black letter decal applied.
Coated with a little clear spray.
I am also working on the storage racks for the dock bumpers.
They have metal straps and need to be sized to allow for removal of the
bumpers if I actually use them while running her.
-
Worked some more on the bumper storage.
Gave the metal bands a coat of white, then
mounted the pair on the fore-deck.
The bow has a number of different views in the various publications.
In some there is a mast, and in some there is a davit for use with the anchor?
Anyway, I played with one of each.
The build is slowing down, not too much to go.
Some work on the stern, a couple of masts, a flag on the stern and a lamp pole at the rear
of the raised deck.
I also have decided to re-work the electrical to split the lights off to a couple of receiver-
driven switches. One for navigation, one for cabin.
Tomorrow I get my second vaccine shot. :D
Thanks for reading.
Jim
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Tested the rear deck removal process.
I Have decided to re-work the electronics to add
a couple of receiver controlled switches for the
navigation and interior lights.
I use some medium sized units from a local source,
Polulu. Took two and linked them to the same channel.
The FlySky unit I am using has 6 channels, 2 are linked to Switches.
One of the switches has 2 positions, That is what I am going to usefor the lamps, Navigation Lamps first and then the Nighttime Cabin Lamps.
More to come, but I have to go off and do my "day job" for a couple of weeks.
So it will be a little while before I post more "finishing touches".
-
I need a little information. and perhaps a history lesson.
The kit came with two flags. See the photo.
Would someone over on your side of the pond please provide me with a littlehistory of the flags, when do they get flown, and on which "mast"?
I see three possible locations:
Bow Maststaff.
The main mast w/ cross arms - amidships.
coming off either the port or starboard sides.
Stern Maststaff.
So which flag should go where?
I think I read somewhere that the small, red cross on white, was for being a "little ship".but I am not sure.
Many thanks,
Jim
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The Red Ensign is the UK national merchant navy flag and normally flown from the stern.
The smaller flag is the cross of St George but the Dunkirk Little Ships would fly it defaced with the arms of Dunkirk flown from the bow jack staff, known as the Dunkirk jack.
https://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/acatalog/Becc-Model-Accessories-Dunkirk-Little-Ships-Association-Flag-150mm-B-GB25H.html
Coiin
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Colin is quite correct - I would just add (out of interest) that the plain cross of St. George would be flown atop the main mast when a full Admiral(RN) is on board a Royal Navy vessel.
Ray.
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So, with the two flags, is the Merchant Navy Flag the correct one for the Bluebird?
Does she qualify as a merchant ship? If not what flag is correct?
Does the plain Cross of St.George ever get flown on this size ship -
does the Owner qualify as an "admiral" on a private vessel?
Looks like I need to get the Dunkirk Flag from Cornwall.
Regards,Jim
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Yes, as I said , the Red Ensign is right for Bluebird as it is for all UK yachts. The smaller flag needs to be the defaced version.
Colin
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Back in the shop.
I ordered the Dunkirk Jack from Cornwall and it took a couple of weeks to come in.Just fine because I needed to spend that time doing my "day job".
Mounted the flags on cords and fastened to the appropriate masts.
Continued on to the rope coils for the deck.
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The "Lifeboat", "dory?", rowboat?
What to call it?
Anyway, the kit included a set of ribs, planks, and seat, but they were so thinthat the ribs disintegrated when I tried to get them out of the laser-cut sheets.
So, I rummaged around in my "left overs" and found a hull that was just about right.She is not as fat as the plans call for, and maybe a touch longer, but I think she will do.
I fitted her out with seats and added a few "blocks" for the suspension ring attachment points.
Then I worked on the davits. Again the junk-box came thru and I found a pair that would do just fine.
Attached the base plate, then use some "JBWeld Epoxy" to secure the davit to the base.Let that sit over night and then this morning added the brace pieces and followed upwith a coat of paint.
So far so good.
Thanks for reading,
Jim
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Good to see you back at it. I’ve missed the progress reports. Almost done!?
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Thanks Stu.
My day job is for the US Air Force as a contractor in a special area.
I sometimes need to go "away" for a bit. But at almost 70, I can not keep
doing this all the time. So I build boats, and long for the snow to melt.
Here in Colorado, most of our ponds are actually water reservoirs and the levels
change with the season. During the winter the snow builds up in the mountains,
and then in the late spring begins to melt. The water department allows the various
ponds to partially drain during the winter, and then re-fills them from the snow-melt.
So right now, my favorite ponds have low water levels, and I would have to walk out
in the muck to get to the water. So we wait. and keep watch.
Back to the Bluebird.
I am a little out of order, but before I started the final assembly of the stern deck area,
I made sure I could actually service the electronics inside the hull. It only took a little bit
of sliding the knife along the top of the hull under the deck in a few places, the varnish had
acted as glue. but with just the removal of 2 little screws, the entire rear deck slides out to
expose the inner guts.
I have never run dual motors before, so I have been reading up here to see how to accomplish
control over two motors with the ability to trim the speed to make them match.
I saw how to use certain mixing capabilities on the FlySky 6 channel. I just happen to have one that I
bought at last years club swap meet, so I chose it for the Bluebird.
The end result can be seen in the pics. A 5000MAh NiMH battery fits in front of and between the two motors.
The lead attaches to the power distribution board and after the fuse gets split between the Speed controllers and
a voltage regulator (set to 5V). The regulator feeds the receiver (via a switch) and also provides power for the various
lights. The Speed controllers have BEC circuits, so I have disconnected the red lead so as to not conflict with the regulated source.
The lights are controlled by a pair of switches linked to the channel on the TX that has a two position switch.
I linked the second motor to the first using a mixer on the TX and assigned a knob to trim it.
It all seem to fit together pretty well.
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Fine job Jim. Those wire connecting blocks certainly help to keep things tidy under the deck. Come on snow, hurry up and melt and we can all see Bluebird in her natural element!
Greg
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I've been watching this build very neat and tidy work!
I started building this model a few years ago but it has been on hold - time to get back to it!
Where did these connecting blocks come from? Don't think I've run across those.
Certainly appreciate your posts.
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The connecting blocks:
EBAY: 75Pcs 221-412 Lever Nut Compact Splicing Connectors - 2/3/5 Conductor For Wago
They have a wide selection of them all different sizes.
One thing - make sure you study the way they work and the length of stripped wire needed.
On larger stranded cable (10 and 12 ga) I needed to trim a little from the "bundle" to get it
to fit deep.
I do like them, makes re-wireing and changes easier.
Thanks for the comments.
A little more to come.
Jim
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Back to finishing up the Dinghy Davits. (say that 5 times fast)
After studying the Article and the Plans from Dave Metcalf,
I searched around for a "best approximation" of the way the
full size Bluebird suspended the dinghy.
I saw that they pulled it in tight against a horizontal bumper,
and had loops of rope over the davits.
While doing this I noticed that I had not applied her name to the stern.So that had t be taken care of first.
So this is what I came up with.
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I am starting to wrap this up. I went on to Ebay and see that there are actually 2 versions of the kit available.
Typical of the Chinese, they do not fix their typos. So both models are listed as 1:18, when in fact
one is 1:18 (like mine) and one is 1:12.
The 1:18 : https://www.ebay.com/itm/254716286136?hash=item3b4e4614b8:g:hBMAAOSws9dfgWkF (https://www.ebay.com/itm/254716286136?hash=item3b4e4614b8:g:hBMAAOSws9dfgWkF)
The 1:12 : https://www.ebay.com/itm/254947576912?hash=item3b5c0f4c50:g:QI0AAOSwuClgfNtP (https://www.ebay.com/itm/254947576912?hash=item3b5c0f4c50:g:QI0AAOSwuClgfNtP)
Those of you who have been following my build will remember that I found a couple of issues with the 1:18 kit.
Most of these were due to the fact that the kit manufacturers first created the 1:12 kit and then scaled it down in the computer to 1:18. In some cases this left the laser cuts VERY thin, and delicate. With my big fingers, and
sometimes shaky hands, I found the manipulation of the tiny, thin pieces to be frustrating.
However - I really enjoyed this build. Would I recommend it to others? YES.
What were the good things about it? -
1. The laser cuts were very exact. These saved me the trouble and time of layout and fabrication. I know that some
enjoy the engineering of the craft, layout of the frames, working from plans and scratch building. This kit allows the
builder to focus on the actual assembly techniques.
2. The engineering of the kit was meticulous. The pieces fit together very well. Very little adjustment needed. The challenge was the interpretation of the instruction manual, (even after I translated it) - what saved me a lot of time was the pictures.
3. This is only my second Plank-on-frame hull. so again, having the pieces so well planned kept the project moving along.
So if you enjoy the "construction" over the "design" facets of this hobby, then you will find this kit enjoyable. It is not an easy
build, and you do have to THINK. but when you figure out what the piece is supposed to look like - it will be there. You need to
be a careful builder, as there is little room for "slop". I encountered a number of times where the amount of glue made something too tight,
and I needed to shave to make things fit.
Here is a final tour of the Bluebird of Chelsea:
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The detail is stunning. Thanks for your build log it’s been great to watch all your hard work! Hoping to see footage sometime of her on the water once the reservoirs are at a more usable level.
-
That is a beautifull model, you must be justifiably proud of it.
Really enjoyed following your build log, thanks for posting it all.
Ralph
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Amazing build Jim. Inspiring.
I add my name to the list who can't wait to see it on the water.
Best regards
David.
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David, Ralph, Stu and
all those who have taken the time to glance thru this thread.
Thanks.
I think most of us post here for a combined number of reasons.
1. "Look what I did"
2. "Don't make the same mistake as me"
3. "This is how you can solve your hiccup"
4. "My wife/spouse/partner doesn't understand this so it is nice to get positive feedback" and on and on.
Finally there comes a time when you can say -
"Doesn't she look sweet on the water?"
The weather here at 5000+ feet above sealevel is getting warmer.
I watch the pond levels every chance. I even bought a new pair of Wellies.
(just in case I get impatient and want to wade out in the muck.)
So - as this thread starts to go idle and tread water waiting for the snow to melt.
I say once again -
Thanks to all the viewers and reply-ers on this thread. You are welcoming, and your
kind comments are appreciated.
I will post movies as soon as she launches from drydock.
Regards to all -
Jim Pope
Denver, Colorado USA
--- Here are some final pics of the "Bluebird at Night" -----
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Well,
I just wanted to say "fare thee well" for now.
My winter build is done, and the ponds are filling up.
I have enjoyed my time here among the Fairey Folk.
you have all been welcoming and I appreciate the camaraderie.
But - Time to get back to my true love - STEAM.
Now that the weather is warming up and my machine shop is habitable.
I am going over to the Steam forum and Hang out until fall when I start my next "Winter Build"
So take care, get your shots, wear your masks, keep your keel in the water.
I will post pics and movies sometime this month of the maiden voyage of the Bluebird.
Regards to all,
Thanks for reading.
Jim Pope
Hilltop Boatworks
Denver, Colorado USA
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Brilliant Jim, I have followed with great interest, a great conclusion congratulations. I look forward t seeing it when it gets it bottom wet :-))
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Lovely job Jim, we have all enjoyed following the build. I'm sure she will look just as good on the water as she does on the bench.
Colin
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Thanks Jim. Thanks for your time in the electric propulsion world. It’s been great to follow. :-))
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Hi this has been a good read. You have made a lovely looking boat. I have a model of Blue Bird II. It is 960mm long and 180mm beam. 1:30th scale.
I can not take credit for the build but it dose sail well. it was featured in Marine modelling August 200I have included a couple of photos.
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Saturday - May 22
In preparation for tomorrow's christening and launch,
I thought perhaps I had better see how she floats in final form.
The dogs thought the pool was all for them, but I got a little float timein as a test before the water got muddy.
Since the waterline / keel anti-foul treatment (red paint) was a bit
of educated guesswork, I think she floats pretty well. Battery and allelectronics installed. I still need a crew, (but those will be on a diet!)
More to come,
Thanks for reading,Jim
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Hi Jim;
I bought this 2.3m swimming pool only for this ballast test of a 1.62m carrier before actual launching. {:-{ :((
After this test,I gave it to my younger brother who had a granddaughter.! %%
Wishing you a successful launching and its pics as well.!!
-
We eagerly await the sailing pics! You’re wise to test it first!
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What a Beaut!
(https://i.postimg.cc/NGXMDyZt/Bluebird-of-Chelesa.jpg)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hy_skH4wBc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hy_skH4wBc)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujSW92jQSu8 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujSW92jQSu8)
A couple of short clips of her on the water today.
Even tho you can not see, A storm came up fast and we had to cut the day short.
I did find that she is rather sensitive to the wind. Must be from being so light in weight.
So there will be more to come in the near future.
Thanks for reading
Jim
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Superb, simply superb.... :-))
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Here she is again - Different park.
No wind, very quiet.
https://youtu.be/xNDFM7ACzgg (https://youtu.be/xNDFM7ACzgg)
Enjoy.
Thanks for reading and watching.
Regards to all -
(Back to the Steam Forum)
Jim.
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A lovely calm day indeed! Looks great at (scale) speed as well as out of the water. Thanks for sharing.
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Great job Jim - something you can be really proud of. Congratulations :-))
Ray.
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Very nice indeed Jim, thanks for posting.
Colin
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Lovely and goes well. Worth all the work.
Chris