Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Navy - Military - Battleships: => Topic started by: Holmsey on October 13, 2007, 06:05:38 pm
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I have started the next ship. The Sirmar model of HMS Campbletown to be built as HMS Cornwall as of Summer 2007!!!
I have done a lot of research and stared at the plans and I started it on Thursday.
I was very lucky last week to get photos of both sides of the ship as she was moved into the dock in Devonport.
So far i have just opened the quarterdeck up and done some thinning of the bulkheads.
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Cant wait to see this one, i am about to order HMS broadsword
Rob
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Go Dave O0
Soon gonna start my first semi kit. (post office permitting, lol)
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Hi Simon
Which one have you bought?
Dave
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Simon
Sorry thought you were new due to single post but I remember sending you pics for York. Good luck with the build, don't hesitate to ask anything you wish
David
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Cheers David
As it happens i've got HMS Tyne on the way too! I think the cleaner lines on the plans may make it a better choice for my first atempt
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Holmsey,
Remember to keep the topweight as low as possible, use only the lightest materials, ie 1/64th ply or litho plate for the decks and superstructure, obeche for beams and stringers.
LB
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Hi Dave
Glad to see youv'e got Campbeltown. It's a really nice one to build. Mine is going to be static so I dont have to worry about weight.
The Superstructure I built ( or am building) using the double skin method
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I've been working on the quarterdeck and flight deck support. There is a notch cut on the rear half of the flight deck where it overhangs the side of the hull. Note the camber built into the supports. This is just a dry run. I hope that the rudder horns will clear the quarterdeck as I don't want to make the deck removable. This was a weakness is Gloucester and let water in.
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The rudder tubes are fitted and the prop tubes are epoxied in place. Note the jigg useing the rudder tubes to set the prop shafts in the correct place. The motors are mounted on the bulkhead, this keeps them a low as possible. The bilge keels are made from alluminium plate glued through slots in the hull. All this will be filled with P38.
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What motors are you using in her?
Bob
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Hi Bob
Model Motors Direct 555s, Paul provided all the running gear and electronics with the kit.
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What are the dimples in the hull in the first pic just behind rudder tubes?
Rob
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They are the guides for the rudder tubes and the A frames, the plan says the rudder tubes are futhur forward so I went with that!!!
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Work done this week:
Steering gear and servo fitted and tested, the framework around the bow built up, quarter deck glued down and the bilge keels being built up with P38.
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hello, any advice for an "aero" modeller who is considering a change in direction (ships and boats do not self destruct into kit form when they collide with a solid object I hope) having modeled aircraft for the past 40 + years I have been considering the purchase of the SIMAR kit of HMS Campbeltown. No illusions that it will be a steep learning curve but have plenty of time and modelling knowledge to do it. Any help will be appreciated from anybody who has built a type 22
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H Davidc
Advice:
Buy some modelling books. Speak to Paul at PSShips/Sirmar. Do lots of research and ask questions on here. When you get closer to getting the model give us a shout and I will send you some photos.
Holmsey
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Davidc
I'm soon to start on my first semi kit, i have found Tim Morgans book (Scale model warships)to be somewhat of a bible for this. As well as keeping an eye out here too !
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Holmsey
i see your pic showing your jig for lining up the props. can't the A frames be glued on and used for this ?
Sorry if this is a daft question but this is the start of my 'quest for knowledge' as my Fleetscale HMS Tyne kit has just arrived ;D
Simon b
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I don't know how other people do it but there are so many things to consider when doing this. Lining up the A frames without the prop shaft would be very difficult. I will be putting the A frames on over the weekend and will post some pics.
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ok, i've just been looking at the tyne. On closer inspection the A frames can't be mounted direct onto the hull as the stems are too long. Therefore i would have to open up the holes and push them into the hull a little. So on reflection, geting the shafts fitted first is the only way to go !
I live and learn :)
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What I will do is drill two pilot holes for each a frame. Epoxy wood blocks inside the hull over the blocks and let set. Drill and cut out the holes with lots of room to spare. Put the shaft into the tube and mount the a frames in the holes. Put the epoxy into the hole and leave to set with no load.
Fill with P38, hopefully the shaft does not bind.
ANYONE WITH ANY IDEAS?
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I open up the "A" Frame holes to be a good sloppy fit.
Fit the frames with the shaft inside.
Check all dimensions.
hold in place with a little superglue, leave to set overnight as the superglue fumes will attack the epoxy.
Apply masking tape to the outside of the hull and pour a little epoxy over the small protrusions inside the hull.
When all dry, everything checked again, if all OK, make a little box out on blue tack oner each protrusion then pour more epoxy in.
Never had an "A" Frame come adrift even when model dropped on it.
It did bend a little, but was straightened out with pliers.
Bob
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Foredeck is fitted and awaiting the rubbing down. I have built a test tank to ballast the models, note the laser leval. The guides for the batteries are superglued to the hull bottom.
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Holmsey,
Your build seems to require a rather large amount of wine. I use vast amounts too. I find that it increases my accuracy immensely...........That is till about midway through the second bottle. I then have detected a sharp falloff in both accuracy and......well.......general motor functions of any kind. :)
Seriously, your build is most interesting. Please continue to post your progress.
Cheers,
pops
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Look like J2O , Not alcoholic , try Red Square Grapefruit. You never notice the Vodka , well not until later.
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Foredeck is fitted and awaiting the rubbing down. I have built a test tank to ballast the models, note the laser leval. The guides for the batteries are superglued to the hull bottom./quote]
Hi, Davidc here keep the good work up with the very informative pics which are teaching me a lot! Couple of questions 1/ what voltage and amperage are the batteries shown 2/ can you explain the use and loacation of the "laser" level I do not appear to be able to see it.
Many thanks
Davidc
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The batteries are 12v 2.1 Ah in parrellel. The laser leval is set up and aimed at a line going verically up the transom. You can just see it in the picture of the stern. It is just a guide to get the model ballasted when fitting the battery mounts. More pics this weekend!!!!
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Some more of the Cornwall Build. Most of the work is around the stern, fitting the gangway down the side of the hanger and the Quarterdeck bulkhead. I will cut out the side recess after the upper deck is in place, this will make detailing and painting more difficult but it means it will be stronger. As you can see I am not an engineer but it will all look a lot neater when it is finished.
Holmsey
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Hello,
What are you using to affix the wood beams to the hull? I have used waterproof epoxies but they take so long to dry. Anything else out there thats better. I have used stabilit express but its pricey here in the US.
Best Regards,
Sean
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The ones running down the hull are superglued on and then covered with resin. The cross beams are generaly waterproof wood glue or epoxy.
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Here are the latest pictures of the build. The quarter deck fittings are in place. The nettings will hide a lot of detail. A paint touch up and a spray of varnish and then on with the flightdeck.
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The latest pictures of Cornwall. I need to build the passagway down the side of the hanger before the hanger can be built up. The structure for the flight deck can be seen in the first picture, this will be clad in plastic strip. The fire recess has been cut into the structure and an infill will be fitted.
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The passageway alongside the hanger has been finnished and the deckhead and 01 deck fitted. The next phase is to build the basic structure for the two deck houses. I have started with the funnel housing. Note that it is double skinned so as to accomadate the various recesses that go along the base of the structure.
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Looking great!!! O0 But one question, what do the Finns have to do with the walkway? Is it lined with Reindeer pelts? {-) :D ::)
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Dodgy spelling!!!!!!
So there is someone left here who is interested in grey ships.
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I'm pretty sure everybody comes back to check in. Gotta keep current, ya know!! O0
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Holmsey,
After much deliberation, and advice from fellow forum members - HMS Cornwall will be the next boat I will build. I loved your thread on the Arleigh Burke build, lots of pic's and great information. I have also ordered the DDG.
Keep up with the thread and especially the pic's - I myself and others need all the info we can get.
I,m fairly certain others are watching your thread and may not be confident in making remarks...... O0 O0
Martin Doon Under :)
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Hi Martin
Give me your Email and I will send you the pics of Cornwall taken in Plymouth in October. I will also give you a few ideas of the differences I have found from the Jecobin plan.
Holmsey
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Some more pics of the funnel house. Weight is the big issue on this model, that's why the structure looks like a swiss cheese. Strangely skinning it over the strip has given it the hungry horse look. The cuts in the bottom are the recceses for fire equipment etc.
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Please keep this going as I am learning so much about the construction of boats ( aircraft are EASY compared to what you are building!) I am still at a loss to understand how you set up the hull so it is in a horizontal plane, I assume you use the bow as a reference to get a vertical plain and the work from that ? O0
davidc
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Hi David
If you are refering to the picture with the laser leval I was just getting the batteries in the right place. I used a vertical mark on the stern and set the laser up in the vertical and shone it on the line.
What if any are you interesred in building?
Holmsey
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Hi
Here are the photos of the fwd superstructure. Same construction so as to make the curves and the recesses. Note the way to get a smooth curve with some scrap plastic strip clipped to the deck edge and cut along. Also the are two pics of the bilge keels, based on aluminium plate and filled out with P38
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Hi, I am looking at building HMS Campbelltown, probably biting of more than I should but with all the advise that is freely given I am sure I will succeed even if it takes a couple of years!. HMS Cornwall was the other option but as I served my apprentice ship at Cammel Lairds (many many years ago) and Campbelltown was built there it an incentive to go for her. So at the present time I am looking at your build and also reading as much as possible to learn how and why certain construction methods are used.
thanks for all the pictures of Cornwall that you post they are very informative and helpful.
Davidc
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The next stage is to fit the deck edges. The idea is that the whole centre deck will come off in two parts with the suprstructure attached to them. Note the slot under the front of the hanger to take the the rear deck. Camber is built into the side and centre decks with cross members. The fws bulkhead structure is also consructed.
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The hanger stucture is the next stage. To save weight the hanger door is going to be closed.
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Most of the main structure of the model is done, the flight deck sides and detail are on and I now have to fill and sand down untill happy and ready to paint.
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Holmsey,
Am I seeing right! ???
Are you using ply for the deck and superstructure? If so, what thickness material ?
Keep up the post as I'm always checking in on build.
Merry Christmas to you and your family
Martin from Down Under O0
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Hi Martin
Yes, that's correct 1.5mm ply, as supplied by PSShips. It works well with this model but I only did the decks of WSC with plywood. All the vertical structures will be clad in 0.5mm plasticard and detail added on top. You should be getting some cds soon!!!!!!!!!!
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This weekends work. I have clad the forward bulkhead and built up the Seawolf platform. Then added the fittings and handrails. Also I have been working on the bulwalks around the forecastle.
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Some more work on the bow section.
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Just a couple of shots of the foredeck and anchor chain runs and capstain base. Bulwalks are complete.
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It's great to see someone else building this ship. I have had this ship for about 10 years, but never got round to finishing it. the hull is finished and the superstructure is about 95% finished. I must get back to it. It has been sat on a shelf for over 5 years now, with no work done on it. Others things in life have took over, so it got put out of the way.
You are doing a great job, better than mine.
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Thanks for you comments Paul.
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I have been working on the main deck edges and the hanger structure, you can see the spurnwater and scuppers. I went sailing last weekend and as luck has it Cornwall was in Portsmouth.
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Hi, how is the build coming on or am i missing out by not looking in the right place? My Campbelltown is progressing with a lot of help from your pictures which thank the lords you have posted for all to share. Why do you clad the superstructure styrene?
regards
David
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Hey David,
What's happened with the build ??? More updates and pic's please, oh pretty please. :)
Martin doon under