Model Boat Mayhem
Technical, Techniques, Hints, and Tips => Detail Work, Rigging, Fittings, Figures Etc. => Topic started by: npomeroy on April 24, 2021, 02:08:16 am
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On my 1/32 1907 tug I am making the cabin structure from laser-cut 1mm Birch ply. My dilemma is how to model the windows so they protrude outside the outer "wall". I'm thinking to make the windows out of acrylic sheet ("perspex"/"plexiglas") thick enough to to stick out about 1mm. But then I'm not sure if it will be practical to mimic the silver or black frame. Another technique may be to heat-form the window, with the protruding edge, from thin clear plastic like PETG. Masking to be able to paint the rim/frame will be hard to do tidily. Hence a way to make the frame separately would be good trick.
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I have no experience here, I am just thinking out of the box.
Paint the edge of the acrylic black. This could be done by using a thin coat of paint on card or dense foam, then run/rub the edge of the glass along the paint bearing surface. Do this for several coats.
Once done, a few coats of paint used on the superstructure to match.
You may be able to achieve similar, by using a goop made from black acrylic and solvent, instead of paint. Running the windows' edges across a very thin smear of goop could give you a consistent thickness along the edge. This would then fuse to the edge of the window. Maybe even a little ridge build up that may or may not be wanted, but can be trimmed with a fine blade and polished smooth later.
A similar effect could be done by wrapping the edge in black tape, then finely trimming. This would be fiddley, and paper tape may be easier to use, but care would be need in sealing it from water, before a final paint in the same color as the superstructure.
Maybe try cnc cut clear acrylic windows and cnc cut black acrylic frames. With the frames cut to fit around/over the glass.
The frames would be weak, but once glued to the windows, would be strong. The frames could be made from a slightly thicker material. But this probably won't work at 1/32.
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Thanks for the suggestion. The issue is more to get a neat rim on the face of the window.
Since I posted I thought maybe make a frame of, say, of 3mm wide, 1mm thick styrene: Wrap it around the perimeter of the window using gentle heat to make the corner radii permanent. Then glue the frame into the aperture and paint it with the cabin wall. Then with a tiny roller or whatever colour the outer edge of the frame (e.g. black or silver). THEN glue in the acrylic piece, which would of course need to be cut small enough to allow for the frame thickness.
Cheers
Nelson
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Do you have any photographs of your or similar 1907 vintage Tug?........
I would have thought they would have a combination of & fixed Casement & Sliding type windows 8)
Derek
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Do you have any photographs of your or similar 1907 vintage Tug?........
I would have thought they would have a combination of & fixed Casement & Sliding type windows 8)
Derek
1907 is the Damen size classification: 19 x 7m. Photos in the first post. I put them there to show how the windows stick out a bit (but some are sliding too).
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Apologies....... :embarrassed: ...........Derek
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Hi there,
This is the way I have made my window inserts in the past. First of all, I cut thin strips of plasticard, about 3 - 4 mm wide x about 0.5 mm thick - this forms the rim on the inside of the window opening. Then I paint the window frame the desired colour prior to fitting the glass. I make the glass from 'old' CD cases. I place the piece of glass case behind the window opening and draw round with a soluble type felt tip pen (so we can wash the felt tip pen off the glazing) then, obviously cut the window out using the marking as a reference. Then I glue the window into place using either canopy glue or clearfix from Humbrol.
Here are a couple of pictures to show what I mean
John
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Do use an oven to soften the clear plastic when doing curved glass on say the corners?
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Hi there,
I think this is the tug the gent is referring too - and - as far as I can see it hasn't got any rounded windows - so I dont think there is any need for an oven
Damen 1907 side buffers (modelboatmayhem.co.uk) (https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,66254.msg710245.html#msg710245)
john
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If it were me I'd try the easy option first and mask them off and paint them. Unless I wanted a task. Would probably not notice from a foot or more away looking at the OP's pictures.
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Hi there
I am in the process of fitting bridge windows in the new model - and this gives you an idea how I fitted the inner plastic to the inner windows.
John