Model Boat Mayhem
The Shipyard ( Dry Dock ): Builds & Questions => Working Vessels => Topic started by: Seaspray on May 07, 2021, 02:31:36 pm
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Bought this model some years ago at Coatbridge Model Exhibition. I like it's looks nice chunky model for stability in the water. Didn't realise that it was fitted out with running gear circa late 1990s. It had 2 Hitec ESCs, two prop shafts and prop blades also fitted 2 Torpedo 500 motors. Twin rudders coupled up to a single servo. It had one of those homemade ESC that reduced the speed on the inner motor on a turn and increased the speed on the outer motor. A link to this ESC will be available later. Some pictures to start the blog. The model is built to 1/12 scale
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The link to the ESC mentioned earlier.
https://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php/topic,63634.0.html
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Some more pictures of the hull. Not so great and its out with the P38 and the Black and Decker sander.
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Few more pictures before we get to priming. Shows the old fittings of 1990s 2 Hitec top of the range ESC s of the day. 2 Torpedo motor believe these are still in producing today. Small Rx I don't know much about this but tried to see if it work as I had a crystal or the frequency it was on The circuit where there is a link on this thread. Picture 1 is the running gear
(fittings). Made a small balsa box to house ESA and battery pack and glued and clamped it in position. Stripped the motors / couplings to have a little examination. Noticed starboard motor out of line but as everything is glued and its ti balsa I left it alone. Sure the balsa would give way before the motor mount. Says to remove balsa frame when hull is built. Never heard of this before. A picture of the real boat
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Some pictures of the build. This is the rear step up on the transom note the little B.A. bolts and the supplier You'll find in the pictures sometimes the primer is on and sometimes not. This is the ongoing P38 sand P38 sand and on and on.
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More into the build and its rub down and lots of coats of primer /filler finished off in white. Looks ready to spray so its black on the hull bottom. Didn't turn out great so back to an other rub down. This time by hand that way you can feel what your doing. Backtrack a little built the step on transom platform. Once glue had dried I used 8 B.A. bolts for simulation. Then gave a good few coating of gray primer. This will be a wet area on the model when in the water. Also hope the rudders don't need to come out. Last picture is fitting the the comb strips for the cabin which I wanted it removable.
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Looking Good Seaspray! :-))
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Cheers Martin back in the groove.
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Onward with the build. The first is Victor Baca's model bit grainy picture as it was lifted of the 1999 magazine with the write up on building the model. Next two pics are the damaged packet and the half round wood broken. The suppler was good at replacing items. Found it very hard to find half round wood when I needed it. 4th and 5th picture fitting the rubbing strips using the half round wood. You've seen this picture before unfortunately the back paint was sprayed too far up the hull. So another rub down and a spray of gray primer start again. Last picture you can see the primer has shown up more uneven rubbing and filling to do.
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Cut out the vents and gave the a rub down and primed. Prepared / masking the rear of the model to spray ribs and edges of step on transom platform. Next picture the black spraying came up nicely. Masking the deck edges ready for the top coat of gray I chose gray as I had plenty of it and it looked good. That came up nicely and notice I have the correct line where the black should meet the white on the hull. Painted the vent slots after deck was dry. On to the cabin this is a template for the cabin front.
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Wow! Nice paint job. Always liked the USCG paint scheme.
Did Billing boats have a kit of this boat years ago??
Hama
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Hama
The colour scheme was my own choice. Using Halford's rattle cans. I think there I lot easier and faster and cheaper than the airbrush. The ship on my avatar is being built on another site Norman McLeod Rogers Canadian Icebreaker. and its a nice colour scheme to.
Billings did have a kit out then
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/thumbgallery.php?t=783514&do=threadgallery&type=img&group=none&starter=no
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Brief reply tonight. Got the sashes in the wrong place had to do a rub down and spray them in right place. Pic 3 is the packet of sashes bought from CMB and contain various sizes. Pic 4 there is four of these strips. Two each side front and rear I think they might be for towing. Made from lolly sticks and brass B.A. bolts them primed spray and fitted. One I had trouble with getting through the rubbing strip and had to fit before painting. This model has at been a pain to do at times
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Brief reply tonight. Pic 4 there is four of these strips. Two each side front and rear I think they might be for towing. Made from lolly sticks and brass B.A. bolts them primed spray and fitted. One I had trouble with getting through the rubbing strip and had to fit before painting. This model has at been a pain to do at times
These are lifting points to allow the boat to lifted from the water by a crane.
Jim
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Cheers Jim thanks for the information.
Seaspray
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On with the cabin build. From the plan the part templates were put on to ply. Cut out sanded to shaped to the angles required. Second last picture the cabin's window front and top sanded to mate with the angles for the front windows and roof. Then I cut out the windows. Parts offered up to check fit altered then glued. Note the big piece of ply at the back of cabin thats there to keep everthing square.
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On with the cabin build. First pic is a another view from the starboard side some parts glued others offered up. Next that piece of ply was used to keep everything square and at the right width, Later to become the rear of the cabin. Here it is with the template from the plan glued to it. Next windows and door cut out. I had intended to have the door to be able to open. Next cleaned up and glued in place. Cut from scrap the two steps up to the deck, you'll see them later spray and glued in place. Next assembly of the lower cabin parts completed.[size=78%] [/size]
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The cabin tricky with a few curves. First picture is the roof's template and then drawn on ply with the templates for the raised part. Next main part of the roof being offered up ready to trim to shape. main part in position with the raised sides in place. These needed to have a slight curve sanded to fit on roof slant. You'll also see I had to raise the rear part of the cabin as I made a measuring mistake. Next pic raised part in position did it want to sit right no. A good set of clamps did the trick. Just to make sure added some more PVA glue round all the joints again plus the front window frame fitted. Left this for a day or two to set. Next two pics. Once set I went round all edges and joins to fill the gapes in then finished off with a wipe with a clean wet rag.
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Gave the whole cabin a spread of P38 then a good sanding down as the ply was old and grainy. It looks a lot better in the next picture. Picture 4 and 5 a coat of Exe-Coat was applied and rubbed down with a fine
grade of sandpaper. Next up on to my spray pod and a few light coat of Harford's primer about 3 coats then a couple of appliance white to finish off. Next you can see it has been a nice spray job as I am now offer up a template of the outside window frame. The last picture is a piece of sprayed plastic tope I wanted to see if it would stretch and stick all the way around the door and it does.
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Looking great :-)) .
Cheers from SoCal,
Mark
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Mark Many thanks the model is finished just doing the blog catch up
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Really have to push this build on pictures 1-3 are the window frames templates on the thin ply ready to cut out then little sanding to clean them up and a spray of gray, same colour as the rear deck. Picture 4 -8 the supplier of the B.A. nuts and bolts I will be using, The roof support that the fire hose rests on cut to size marked out and drilled for the bolts. The bolts are in place and lastly sprayed red. The siren / load hailer in position constructed using a round piece of balsa, by drilling out a centre sand to shape and made a little round piece to insert into the drilled hole.
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The cabin interior and fittings. The first four pictures are the two seats in construction when finished there sprayed black and fitted in position. Next two are the cabin steps built and offered into position. The last four are the the interior build stages and sprayed.
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These parts maybe for assisting towing. First picture the template for the hatches theses open for access beneath decks. Next parts used for the build. The other template these don't open just a tow stay at mid ships. Cut from the template drilled and sanded to size with a smooth edge. B.A. bolt heads screwed into place and then next pic all other parts to complete build. lastly the two hatches in various modes of construction. Final pic all built up ready for a coat of Ez-Coat then a spray of white paint.
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The mast built using brass tube and rod. First picture is a drawing showing the navigation light system. Mostly the lights are all white with the exception of the lower aft one which is yellow. This is light up when towing. Thanks to C G Bob for his information. Next picture is the LEDs used with legs cut off sprayed white and and one yellow, later glued into their position. The A frame that supports the mast when mounted on the bridge roof. Used a simple nail it down as a way to get the right angles and assist soldering. The mast sprayed gray primer one or two adjustment needed here. Next mast offered on to cabin roof and the paint was scrapped off from under the wooden feet and roof to have a good gluing surface. Next a final spray coat of yellow. Next picture LEDs fitted also the blue warning light. This was made of different sizes of wooden dowel a dab of Eze-Kote with a spray on top part blue and silver on bottom
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The radar dome build. 4 pieces of ply glued together the middle ply has most of its the centre removed. Not that I needed to bother about weight. Checked size off plan then mounted on the drill sanded to a smooth edge and correct diameter. Glued the 3 legs to the radar base and used a screw to give a good support base to dome. Sprayed with white primer then a coat of appliance white. The flash was sprayed red and a blue strip of tape then a coat of Chestnut lacquer. The Coast Guard vinyl badge fitted. Mast, radar dome, searchlight, airhorn and siren offered into place before glued into place. The roof hand rail has also been fitted was removed sprayed white and glued back into position
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The fire hose and supply pipe all made of wood. I would have liked to have made the supply pipe with copper with a nice bend on it ( lockdown ). Fitted the outer window frames and windows
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"The fire hose and supply pipe all made of wood. I would have liked to have made the supply pipe with copper with a nice bend on it"
That would have created tears, and tares in the copper, too tight a bend radius. original would have a cast or two half pressing bend welded together.
Really nice build.
Regards Ian.
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Hi Ian
I like to work with wood but have a set of springs you insert in to piping to stop kinking and a little bending tool. Whether not it would work, I don't know,. Then there is the sand in the pipe idea with the pipe plugged each end. Tools I've had for decades and never used
Cheers
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Just trying to save the heartache, Yep, I know about the spring and sand tricks but it's down to bend radius. Only way I know to achieve a tight bend like what you've shown is how musical instrument (Brass section) tight bends are formed. Hardly economical in model sizes. BUT, electroforming would also work. Moons ago, was responsible for supply of zorst systems for fighting vehicles, F1 and DMU multiple units. ok2
Regards Ian.
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Hi Ian
If I really was going to use copper I'd attempt a cut n shut method, as I've seen it done. Anyway this model finished sometime ago and I have moved on :-))
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Stanchions and railings on the work deck. First picture is the stanchions cut to size and soldering washers to top and bottoms. Using the drill to keep them upright and steady while doing so. Next the assemblies are put into the jig to get right positioning. Next the life belts/ rafts painted and BECC decals added. Next the cage to hold the life belts in made of brass flat and soldered into position. Further work back in the jig and primer added. Next assembly offered into place and it fits just about right this is starboard side. Last picture is the port side in the wrong side. Good job my jigs were copies of each other.
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From memory the musical instrument companies based on a 'How It's Made' program use wax inside the tube, hot wax poured in a left to set, then the bends are created using pipe bending tools and then parts are heated to release the wax.
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Interestingly, a Yamaha video refer to a low temperature metal poured into the stem before bending........a French manufacture process appears to use some cryogenic process prior to bending >>:-( ....either way, both are rather amazing in the quality of the finished bends :-))
The Yamaha clip also make note that soft soldering is used in segments of tube to tube joints so as to facilitate easy disassembly
Derek
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You know - going off memory is a problem of mine :D , the cryogenic method may have been what it might be, water frozen and then after the bending allowing the water to run out, so sorry about that everyone
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Gentlemen basically it goes to show that there is always a way of doing things.
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"Low temp. metal" is "Cerrobend" was commonly known as "Woods metal" amusing to see reaction to a teaspoon molded from it in hot tea. Bismuth based and various melting temperatures available. Musical instrument tube bending I saw was ti crush the section to be bent, bending round a form and then clamping tube in a split block and forcing ball bearings from one end to re form the bore. Granular packing for our toy sizes would be best using salt but has to be really tightly packed and the ends of the tube sealed, but again, in our sizes, really tight bends, wax pattern and electroform if metal is wanted, otherwise resin castings.
Sorry for hijack seaspray, just trying to impart help.
Regards Ian.
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Righty O. Need to finish this blog as I've another build I wish to get back to. First 3 pictures are the rear railing being constructed to completion. Then sprayed refitted and the boat's I.D number using BECC decal with a little Chestnut Lacquer sprayed over. Also the rear hatch glued in place. Next forward and aft chains fitted. There should be two chains on the forward section but as the cabin comes off its easier to leave them off. Also the midships Samson post fitted. Rear chains two fitted and the opening hatch fitted. Top view of the workdeck hatches using BECC lining to make them stand out. Front railing soldered up ready for spraying. It should join on to the railing on the cabin roof as one piece but again as the cabin comes off I left as it is. Later will find thin plastic tubing to slide on and off for cabin roof rails. Finally the Coast Guard and I.D. number placed on, using BECC decals and two of the three cleats glued to deck. There are six all told three each side.
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First four pictures are of the finished model. The next four pictures are the maiden voyage at AYR Model Boat Club, Newton Park. AYR, Scotland
Picture 1 If you full stick on the right hand one the boat does doughnuts. Have a good look at the water that is a nice little ESC circuit on board ( Discussed in the build blog ).
Picture 2 Full ahead nice wake and didn't need any ballast. Very surprised no water problems at the transom, as it sit low in the water.
Picture of the real boat in action very old picture.
Picture 3 Pretty good at doing quick turns and sitting just right in the water.
Picture 4 In to harbour and homeward bound. Had a good time with this model. :-))
Lastly the real boat in action very old picture